Me gusta mucho ver como ud realiza este tipo de herramientas caseras. Se nota que ud es un SEÑOR CARPINTERO, lo felicito. Le envio un abrazo desde Paysadú Uruguay.
I built a very similar rig before I saw your video. It is based on SAE so 1 inch threaded rod (standard coarse) gives me 1/8 inch per turn. I'll build another and will take from yours where the carriage extends to base for support. If I remember, I'll post a picture.
Great jig and it may be perfectly accurate, however when I build my revision of this jig (as I have already built similar) I will have the threaded rod much lower and as near to the point of drag as possible to eliminate any possibility of rotation of the moving part. Not that in your design this is necessarily a factor to be concerned about but I guess I just like to go with the flow of good physics wherever possible.
I understand your concern, but in this case, as I use self-locking nuts this question practically does not matter. The rotation becomes a little more difficult, but the moving part does not move. Thank you.
Now that's just too cool . I really like this one as I have seen many hear on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing....One to add to my Build list that is getting very long now :)
Great build for a box joint jig. One minor observation though would be not to use threaded stock for the crank handle as it will eventually chew up the wood as you use it. Also, perhaps a clicker on the wheel adds a sound for when you are counting revolutions. These are just minor thoughts for this well thought out jig. I look forward to start using mine.
hi you have made remarkable work .but when you are cutting the joint it is not clear . I mean, if you want to cut wider than the saw blade thickness how can you cut? for example , if you want to cut a width of 1 cm wide how can it cut? I think you used a piece of play wood for the space to make the joint. please clear it and send me a message .
Very cool build Young Man. It looks easy to build, simple design that can't go wrong. Looks to be very accurate too. I also really like what I could see of your belt sander. Do you have any plans for that also? Be very proud of yourself Sir Thank You
Nice jig, thanks. However, I note that the plans do not specify the size of the threaded rod. Your response to JBMarker suggests a thread pitch of 1.6mm but there are no common metric threads that provide that pitch. M10 Coarse and M12 Fine both give 1.5mm. The closest would be the 3/8" UNC or 3/4" UNF both of which provide a pitch of 1.5875 mm or 16 turns per inch. This would be perfect for a 1/8" saw blade. Could you please confirm that is what you used?
In continental Europe we use only metric units. The threaded rod that I use is a 12 mm diameter and the pitch is 1,6 mm (not 1,5 mm). So, the thickness of the blade is 3.2 mm, this means that I need to give 4 turns to the threaded rod to make the next cut. I hope that even with my bad English made me understand. Thank you
I assume since you turned the wheel 4 times that you used a 16 thread per inch all thread. But you are in Europe, so is it metric threaded rod or SAE? Do your plans require metric or SAE?
I use metric units. One turn = 1,6 mm ; 2 turns = 3,2 mm that is the thickness of the saw. I turned 4 times to get a finger with 3,2 mm and a cut witht 3,2 mm. The plans are made in mm - metric units.
@@FromTheWood One turn = 1.6mm; 2 turns = 3.2 mm which is the thickness of the saw. I rotated 4 times to get a 3.2mm finger and a 3.2mm cut. if it turns 4 times it is not = 6,4 ????????
First you have to position the blade at 90 degrees with the surface of the table saw The jig has all the pieces in square and slides parallel to the table.
Hello from Holland, good work you did. Question , the first cut I can understand. But the cuts after that i could,nt understand. How Will the distance of the following cuts installed? You did it with the wheel?
This is the one for me, very neat. I'd buy the plans but how the hell do I get a few dollars from Australia to Portugal? I don't use a credit card, I'll wing it, I'm a pensioner with unlimited time (and wood) !!!
For 10mm fingers: Cutting: 1st passage = 3 mm blade The remaining 7 mm (7 / 1.6 = 4.375) must be cut at 4,375 turns.(total= 10 mm cut) Not cutting: 10 / 1.6 = 6.25 turns Cutting: repeating In my case it is simpler, because the blade has 3.2 mm which is double of the turn of the threaded rod wich is 1.6 mm
@@FromTheWood OK, I didn't see a head or sign that there was one near, so it surprised me to see the sparks. That sort of thing is very annoying when it happens. That is a very nice finger joint jig, sir.
Hola señor gracias por la idea es una maravilla de maquina fabricada por usted un saludo si señor usted si es un carpintero
Me gusta mucho ver como ud realiza este tipo de herramientas caseras. Se nota que ud es un SEÑOR CARPINTERO, lo felicito. Le envio un abrazo desde Paysadú Uruguay.
Obrigado, Gracias
I can tell you have done this more than once! Great job thanks.
Perfect, simple and effective. I'am going to copy this jig. Regards from Austria
desde colombia felicitaciones maestro mas claro no se puede es ud un artista
Gracias amigo
Very brilliant idea thanks for this video
A very good build, thanks for posting from Garry in the UK
Very nice! Simple yet effective!
You got mad skills.
Excelente trabajo! Que Dios te bendiga! Mi grande amigo te Salud del Brasil! Soy brasileño!
انتم مبدعين كما ارجو المزيد من؛ التقنية
yes u did, loops.
just think, u are only wood worker to ever goof up.
well done on the jig
الله ينور عليك و علعلمك وتسلم ايدك أان مصطفى محمود
very neat works
That is a beautiful joint and a great jig. Thanks for sharing.
Thank you
WoodRodent cf
Very cool.
The flinstones work shop omg that table saw sounds like it's going to let loose any second
Another excellent jig! Thanks for sharing.
Thank you
Fantástico. Optima ideia. Parabéns pelo canal.
TENHO 63 ANOS E SOU MARCENEIRO ,A ARTE DA MARCENARIA ESTA ACABANDO ,HOJE A MOLECADA E SO CORTAR O MDF E PARAFUSAR JA TA PRONTO O MOVEL
lovely work thaaaaaaaaaaaaaaanks 10/10
Thank you
Good idea
Very beautiful
I built a very similar rig before I saw your video. It is based on SAE so 1 inch threaded rod (standard coarse) gives me 1/8 inch per turn. I'll build another and will take from yours where the carriage extends to base for support. If I remember, I'll post a picture.
Ok. good luck.
No hablas pero eres todo un maestro
Nice and simple....!
O Sr. É Muito criativo meus parabéns. Seu projeto ficou show
Obrigado, abraço.
Very good!!!
I'm brasilian
Very nice
Hi there from Portugal(Coimbra)
Nice Jig :D
Obrigado(Thanks)
Отлично. Просто прекрасно.
Great jig and it may be perfectly accurate, however when I build my revision of this jig (as I have already built similar) I will have the threaded rod much lower and as near to the point of drag as possible to eliminate any possibility of rotation of the moving part. Not that in your design this is necessarily a factor to be concerned about but I guess I just like to go with the flow of good physics wherever possible.
I understand your concern, but in this case, as I use self-locking nuts this question practically does not matter.
The rotation becomes a little more difficult, but the moving part does not move.
Thank you.
Now that's just too cool . I really like this one as I have seen many hear on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing....One to add to my Build list that is getting very long now :)
nice job. well done
Thanks
Muy buen trabajo e invento, enhorabuena...saludos desde Punta Umbría-Huelva-Andalucía-España.
Grande maestro ,
Maravilla de ingenio
Un video extraordinario.
Obrigado
Awesome .....ilove it bro......Thanks for sharing....
mantap..terima kasih telah membantu sy dgn vidio ini
great jig well made
Very nice I like all your work. How many turns per 1/8 of cut? maybe alum ruler mounted on the thread box? real nice good job boss..
Two turns for 1/8.
Four turns and you can made the cut.
Muito obrigado pela partilha, ficou uma máquina impecável!
Nice sparks at 7:12 Hit the screw?
GENIAL MUY BUEN PROYECTO FELICITACIONES DESDE PALMIRA COLOMBIA
I have the same polishing blade on my hacksaw 😀 time for a new blade I think. Nice jig !
Parabéns meu amigo ótimo trabalho ficou muito bom
Bonito muy buena idea
TODO LO QUE SUBE ES UTIL Y MUY BONITO, UN SALUDO
Gracias
Increible union muy bonita
nice ending.
thanks for the ideas
Simples e eficaz! Obrigado por compartilhar!!
fantastic
Ótima ideia meus parabéns 👏👏👏
Ficou espetacular, parabéns!
Obrigado
Eccellent!
Uau, perfect! Congratulaciones my friend
Thank you
simples e eficaz, parabéns pelo trabalho
Obrigado
Bravo maestro!!!
Excelente herramienta!
Saludos...
I sure would pay you if you made me one! LOL! The mechanics of that would be way over my head. However it sure would come in handy!
2Jennm
Estupendo gracias
Great build for a box joint jig.
One minor observation though would be not to use threaded stock for the crank handle as it will eventually chew up the wood as you use it. Also, perhaps a clicker on the wheel adds a sound for when you are counting revolutions. These are just minor thoughts for this well thought out jig. I look forward to start using mine.
Thanks.
You are right.
yes maybe install 3/8 bearing or bushing to the threaded rod stock so the wood don't wear out..
hi you have made remarkable work .but when you are cutting the joint it is not clear . I mean, if you want to cut wider than the saw blade thickness how can you cut? for example , if you want to cut a width of 1 cm wide how can it cut? I think you used a piece of play wood for the space to make the joint. please clear it and send me a message .
nice desing!! thank you for share
Muy bueno. Excelente idea. Saludos Daniel
glad i came across this, im going to have to make one now, its better that my dovetail jig
HOLA
beautiful piece of work, only I wonder - wasn't it a mistake to put self locking nuts in middle part? it will run smoother with simple nuts
It is because the backlash. If you warm the nuts and put some oil it run smooth too.
Very cool build Young Man. It looks easy to build, simple design that can't go wrong. Looks to be very accurate too. I also really like what I could see of your belt sander. Do you have any plans for that also? Be very proud of yourself Sir Thank You
I dont have yet the plans to the belt sander.
Thank you.
doug westphal a
PARABÉNS !!!!!!!!!!!!!!
gostei, muito bem projetada !!
sem palavras! incrível.
PARABÉNS O SENHOR E UM GENIO
Obrigado
EU TAMBEM FAÇO MINHAS MAQUINAS ,APRENDI COM MEU PAI QUE ERA MARCENEIRO
From The Wood oop
linda ferramenta! Parabéns
Grreat excellent
Thank you
ótimo jig
Excelente!
Perfect
Thanks
Muito bom. Parabéns
Obrigado
Parabéns você um crânio dou maior valor esse serviço
Nice jig, thanks. However, I note that the plans do not specify the size of the threaded rod. Your response to JBMarker suggests a thread pitch of 1.6mm but there are no common metric threads that provide that pitch. M10 Coarse and M12 Fine both give 1.5mm. The closest would be the 3/8" UNC or 3/4" UNF both of which provide a pitch of 1.5875 mm or 16 turns per inch. This would be perfect for a 1/8" saw blade. Could you please confirm that is what you used?
In continental Europe we use only metric units.
The threaded rod that I use is a 12 mm diameter and the pitch is 1,6 mm (not 1,5 mm). So, the thickness of the blade is 3.2 mm, this means that I need to give 4 turns to the threaded rod to make the next cut.
I hope that even with my bad English made me understand.
Thank you
OK got that.
Thanks for that information .... Great jig and video !!!!!
Metric M12 thread pitch is 1,75 mm and not 1,6 mm so what kind of threaded rod did you use?
Великолепно!
El que sabe sabe mas bale viejo por diablo que por diablo.mis respetos
классно придумано
How do you know, how often you have to turn the crank to make e.g. 48 Box-Sides always exactly the same to fit each other?
I wondered about that also??
Скиньте пожалуйста размеры станка.
great jig!
where did you find such a thick blade?
I assume since you turned the wheel 4 times that you used a 16 thread per inch all thread. But you are in Europe, so is it metric threaded rod or SAE? Do your plans require metric or SAE?
I use metric units. One turn = 1,6 mm ; 2 turns = 3,2 mm that is the thickness of the saw. I turned 4 times to get a finger with 3,2 mm and a cut witht 3,2 mm.
The plans are made in mm - metric units.
@@FromTheWood
One turn = 1.6mm; 2 turns = 3.2 mm which is the thickness of the saw. I rotated 4 times to get a 3.2mm finger and a 3.2mm cut. if it turns 4 times it is not = 6,4 ????????
how did you ensure the blade was a perfect 90 degrees to the piece? Is the detailed in the plans?
First you have to position the blade at 90 degrees with the surface of the table saw
The jig has all the pieces in square and slides parallel to the table.
perfect
muy bueno el acople
Senky. Good. On technologies okay. 👌👍
I can't believe he glued the box joint... I thought it was going to be screwed together, I guess he had run out of screws
Why are you using a Tinners hammer??
Hello from Holland, good work you did. Question , the first cut I can understand. But the cuts after that i could,nt understand. How Will the distance of the following cuts installed? You did it with the wheel?
This is the one for me, very neat. I'd buy the plans but how the hell do I get a few dollars from Australia to Portugal? I don't use a credit card, I'll wing it, I'm a pensioner with unlimited time (and wood) !!!
If you have limited time you'll just have to use butt joints for your last box. R.I.P
Noooooo !!! NOT YET !!!!
How does this work if I want to make 10mm or 15mm joint fingers??
We can make fingers multiples of 1.6 mm: one turn trheaded rod; 0,8 mm half turn; 0.4 mm quarter turn.
Which means if I want 10mm finger I must calculate 10/1.6 = 6.25 turns with 3mm blade, then 6.25 space (no cut) and again cut 6.25 turns?
For 10mm fingers:
Cutting:
1st passage = 3 mm blade
The remaining 7 mm (7 / 1.6 = 4.375) must be cut at 4,375 turns.(total= 10 mm cut)
Not cutting:
10 / 1.6 = 6.25 turns
Cutting: repeating
In my case it is simpler, because the blade has 3.2 mm which is double of the turn of the threaded rod wich is 1.6 mm
Thank you so much, I understand
I saw the sparks
You are attentive
@@FromTheWood What did the blade hit? It didn't look like there was a screw in the path of the blade.
@@deezynar There was a screw.
@@FromTheWood OK, I didn't see a head or sign that there was one near, so it surprised me to see the sparks. That sort of thing is very annoying when it happens. That is a very nice finger joint jig, sir.
@@deezynar Thank you
please tell me what size the base? and pin m14-16 for step 2mm ?
see: www.etsy.com/pt/listing/498870770/box-joint-jig-plans-digital-download?ref=shop_home_active_1
Tg u for sharing.****
Parabéns 👍👍👍👍👏👏👏👏
fabio binho eu tinhamacinarr
👍👍👍