I've reduced the lawn area of my suburban home landscape by ~60%. The dog enjoys playing fetch and laying in the cool grass. The rest is trees and shrubs. I've never counted, but I suspect there're 200+/- different species. Horttube has been an invaluable resource for me.
Same. Front bermuda lawn gone. Back cool season lawn reduced by 60% but I left a good long strip of it for my dog to be able to run. Water bill way down. Everything (disease/fungus/short tailed crickets/the sun) tries to kill my lawn but few things try to kill my plants. More work building a garden up front but less work and stress over time replacing it with garden.
My favorite part of every Q&A: when Jim says “Okayeeee” 😂 Jim, if I do need to spray for English ivy or the like, how long do I wait to replant the area?
Good question! And another follow-up question about ivy & vinca: Is it ok to spray along a creek bank, environmentally speaking? Or should the viney things be left alone there to slow down erosion? Thanks for answering my original question this week. Will definitely try spraying, and I'm excited to get planting other things sooner!
Love the Q&A’s. When removing annuals for the season, do you recommend pulling them out or cutting them at the base? I didn’t know if there could be some benefit or detriment to leaving the roots in the soil. Thank you for your expertise!
Thank you Jim Putnam you are always talking sense with the Qand A's... nice change from so many gardening videos. On the multiple plants in a pot. I often look for these since they can be divided and sometimes you can get 3-5 plants from one pot. Especially with perennials. So I can plant 3 Echinacea spread out a bit and get a group from one pots worth. Last week one, very full, 1 gal Penstemon turned into 5 decent sized divisions. $12 well spent, for me.
The reason I mow my 4 acre yard once a week is because I use it for mulch and compost. I collect it all through the summer, pile it up and turn it with the tractor every couple of weeks. Sometimes I don't even go to that trouble. I spread the pile under my plants and no weeds come through it. An old timer gave me the tip years ago when I asked him what kind of fertilizer he used on his garden, because his bell peppers were massive, along with everything else in his garden. He said that is all he uses. Other than the gas in the mower and time, of course, it's pretty inexpensive. I don't think the benefits happen over night, however. It takes time for soil to condition.
I am in the UK but watch a lot of US gardening vlogs (mainly because there arn't many good British garden vloggers). But it is interesting to note how many are actively promoting the use of Plantone etc, or Proven Winners plants, presumably because all are either sponsored by these companies, or hope to be sponsored. It is refreshing to watch you being 'advert tree's and providing gardening advice based purely on best practice.
One possible video suggestion would be dependable fall color plants in zone 7B- fall color is not something our area is known for & seems dependent on weather conditions/ early frost, etc but I'm sure there are certain plants you can count on for this here. Thank you!
Other evil weed candidates for fall spraying: Japanese knotweed and wisteria. I pull or smoother what weeds I can but there are certain things that require stronger measures. The good thing about glyphosate (Roundup) is that it breaks down pretty quickly in the soil.
I had both vinca and English ivy all around my 1942 house when I bought it 17 years ago. It's in my next door neighbor's yard and has been veey difficult to get rid of. I did have to use Roundup early on to get the worst out. I even now see it occasionally and pull it out before it can be deeply embedded. I live in zone 7B so everything grows rapidly.
I had a pot just sitting on the ground and the roots of the plant I had in the pot grew through the drainage holes anchoring itself to the ground plugging the drainage holes completely . That was a nightmare for me trying to get the plant out of the pot without destroying the pot and the plant. A lesson learned for sure ! 🍁🍂🍁💚🙃
I just removed a tomato plant that I grew in a large planter, then buried the planter in the ground because it was a very large planter -- visually I didn't like the overall height of the planter. Never again! There was a large, singular root that has grown through the single drain hole -- wow! What a effort to remove the plant and root. Oh well, live and learn.
Hi Jim, do you have any tips for black spot, powdery mildew, and other fungal issues? I just thin the foilage for air flow and some neem oil spray, but alas, the fungus persists. Should I invest in a heavy duty horticultural oil? Perhaps the "winter oils" people use during a plants dormancy?
"I don't want to say, weed control fabric is terrible. But it kinda is." 😉 When you're trying to remove fabric that's been there for years, you curse, loudly and scare your neighbors. 😁
Good morning Jim! Another great Garden Q&A video. If having to spray round up to clear the invasive vines, how long before you are able to plant up that area afterwards?
I recall Jim explaining before that glyphosate has no mechanism of action in soil. So as long as it has dried, and there were no other herbicides in the spray, you should be good. It could take you a few applications and some time for the vines to die, though. What I did in a 150sq/ft area with very established Vinca in 2021 was I sprayed all the vinca twice, 14 days apart in the fall. In the early spring of 2022 I planted an American Holly, an edgeworthia, and some other perennials. As the remnants of the surviving vinca sprouted, I used a brush and painted the emerging vines with glyphosate. This year, in 2023, I have only had one vinca vine try to emerge this entire season, so I'd call this, in spite of the long timeframe, a huge success. Liriope is a different ongoing story haha.
Roundup is systemic I have friends that lost new plants after planting in the treated area after 6 months. Their new plants only lasted 2-5 years. There is no way to tell - it's up to you but I would never use the stuff but if I did I would remove and replace the soil.
@sherriianiro747 how could they know that the reason the plants only lasted 2-5 years is due to a round up application 6 months prior to planting? I am also not sure how glyphosate being a systemic has anything to do with planting in soil where it has previously been used. My understanding is that systemics affect the whole plant, including the roots, but it's absorbed through the foliage, not absorbed via the roots. I am no proponent of herbicides, I pick weeds by hand. But my approach is like what Jim said in the video, I reserve them for invasives that I may never be able to eradicate otherwise.
Question: I'm trying to establish a pollinator garden. Is it helpful to plant moisture-loving natives like buttonbush and cardinal flower 'low' (below grade)? Tennessee / 6B
Hey Jim, was planning to plant some Miss Huff lantana this coming week after watching your recent video. I'm in 7b Charlotte, think it's to late in the year for them to establish for a return after winter?
You raise a good point about having a lawn. I have mines for ornamental value, especially in the back yard but the gardener in me says, “Hey, that’s a good spot for a new garden bed.” 😅
I’ve been gardening for 50 years but still signed up for your Lear To Garden series and I love it. I’m in FOREST CITY NC. zone 7a I have an Illicium floridanum that’s doing great in a large pot. I meant to plant it but didn’t get around to it. Since it’s marginal hardy, should I still plant or overwinter it somehow?
2nd request. I have an old Dogwood tree that is dying and need to be cut down, can I immediately spread the ground up tree around to improve my garden soil? Thank you love watching your videos I have learned a lot.
I think you certainly can. Arborist chips are delivered straight from chipping up a tree, and can be used immediately. I’ve used them, and they worked great.
You were talking about how natural fertilizers occur, my question to you is, are there certain tree leaves that aren’t as beneficial to certain plants or are otherwise toxic in certain situations? of your knowledge sharing! Love the videos, and the house is looking great!
What happens when a tree is grown in a pot, but that tree normally grows a taproot? This has been in the back of my head for a while, but the White Pine question reminded me. For example, cercis canadensis come up in my yard in central Oklahoma like weeds. Redbuds, in my clay soil, have taproots. One I dug out was a 2ft tall tree with a 3ft deep taproot which explains why it had full sun and no burn from the summer. However if I buy a pot grown redbud from the nursery, which I have, there is obviously no taproot, or at least the taproot it tried to grow couldn't grow as such. Once I plant the pot grown redbud, will it then decide to grow a taproot? Or has that process been interrupted and will no longer occur? I think the topic of roots in general could be expanded and warrant its own video here or on Learn to Garden 😉
Fall pollinator plants for 8A, ATL GA? I've got purple mist flower in the yard from the previous owners. I think it's a mint family so it's really taken over. But gosh aren't they covered in and attracting so many butterflies, especially monarchs. These bloom later in the season and I think they went until first frost. (And my lantana have already berried)
Thanks for another good video! I’m preparing to put down mulch this fall as per your recommendation to do mulch twice a year. I have a large pile of well rotted horse manure (I keep horses at home) that’s been turned over a few times and would like to use it as my mulch since I have it on hand. It’s quite fine; crumbly and light weight. It’s not totally weed seed free though as evidenced by the crab grass growing on top of the compost pile. I feel confident that it would add beneficial nutrients to my gardens, but a lot less sure it’s gonna help suppress weeds. Any thoughts on using less than perfect compost as mulch?
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ What are some 5-6’ “ish” plants that could be used as a hedge that can tolerate winter wind? I live in zone 9a a little inland from the coast. I tried Sunshine Ligustrum but they did not thrive. Considering Gold Mop Cypress since two neighbors have them. Prefer a gold color since house is grey but open to anything at this point. Thank you LOVE your channel! 😍
Always look forward to your videos, thank you! Question: I lost a few marginally hardy perennials (I am in N. Atlanta) last winter and would like to avoid a repeat of that. Specifically, we lost all of our sterling moon begonias. The begonias were planted in the Spring so they had plenty of time to get established by Winter and they were well mulched. My best guess is that it was moisture, not cold temps, that killed them. I love this plant so I bought more of them again this Spring. Any suggestions on how to increase their odds of survival this Winter? I am considering some covering for their winter dormancy that will limit (but not eliminate) the amount of water they receive. We have a cold frame and can transplant them there for the Winter but not sure that transplanting them prior to Winter is preferable to leaving them where they are and covering them to reduce moisture. Many thanks!
Great questions! And love the look of the home now, so nice. I have had great luck using Biotone (1-2c in the bottom of the hole) but I think I'm going to experiment next year - pots of annuals, one with Biotone, one with Plantone, one with synthetic, one with none. I hypothesize that my patio will be more colorful at the very least. 😅
so when Holly Tone says fertilize in spring and fall should we not do a fall app? love the vids brother come to Georgetown County ill show you some outstanding gardens
Oklahoma 7a-I have a Royal Hawaiian® Waikiki Elephant Ear that I planted in the Spring. Should I dig it up this Fall or could I mulch well and it will be ok?
Enjoyed your September lantana video. You stated that they can easily be rooted from cuttings. Do you recommend rooting in water or with rooting hormone in soil? I attempted rooting some in water last year, unsuccessfully.
In my central California garden, lantana is extremely invasive. It tries to take over and has to be fought all the time. It's almost as bad as burmuda grass.
Hi Jim. I have tried to grow agapanthus in a pot for two years in a row, but have had no luck getting blooms. The first year I had one plant in a big pot. I later read they don’t like too much space. This year I put 3 plants in the same pot. The plants are healthy,but again no blooms. At this point, I am thinking of just planting the 3 in the ground. Will they have time to settle in before winter. I am in Atlanta.
I live in Apex, zone 7B….I have a tea olive that came to me in a large pot with limited soil. When I put it in the ground, I thought I shouldn’t bury anything that wasn’t already covered by dirt, but there are a few exposed large roots. It’s only been in the ground since May, but now I’m concerned that this is going to be detrimental to the plant. It has new growth seems happy, but I don’t want to lose it. What would you advise?
There was hardly a growing season in my life that I have NOT been stung by a bee, mostly honey bees. Often times more than one sting. Luckily I'm not allergic to them and I pretty much expect it every year. Just part of gardening for me.
I also hadn’t been stung for decades . . . until a carpenter bee got me last Thursday after deadheading ‘Miss Molly’ butterfly bush at dusk. They are out and about in force here! 😮
Is it worth deadheading pansies and snapdragons planted in October in zone 7 like you do for your summer annuals? Or just enjoy the blooms before frost hits hard
Hi Jim. We've recently moved to GA (7b) (today is actually exactly 1 year!) and our house is a new build on a wooded lot. We put in a LOT of new plants (shrubs/trees/perennials) this past spring, as well as some sod. My question is, now that Fall is nearly upon us, how long do we keep watering this stuff? We had hit or miss rain over the summer, so we needed to supplement watering pretty often, but I know some of these things will be dying back so they shouldn't need watering, right? We have a lot of southern evergreen things like camellias, tea olives, gold mop cypress, magnolia, Carolina jessamine, etc... do they need to be watered at least through a full year of being in the ground? I don't want to inadvertently kill off a bunch of newly established plantings because I'm being lazy. :) As always, thanks for all you do! Love all the information - you're the best!
We live in Charleston 8b/9 and we wanted to remove some Japanese Privets (builders planted them about 4-5 yrs ago) planted on side of house in full sun and want to replant them to add to our privacy screen out back in Part sun. They are about 6 feet right now. Should we wait until spring or is ok to do now? Also if we decide to do it about how much should we trim off the shrub before moving it? Thanks, love your channel. 👍🏾
I look forward to these Q&As every Sunday. Thank you! I'm here in Raleigh and yesterday was pulling out spent plants in our vegetable garden and noticed we had root knot nematodes on some of the green beans. We've been growing vegetables in this area for 15 years. We have clay soil, add mulched leaves every year, have been rotating crops as much as possible (the area isn't that big) and this is the first time we've encountered this. Why all of a sudden would we have this problem? We did bring in some hummus this Spring from a local reputable company. Could it have come in with this? If we grow plants next year that is said to be "resistant to this organism" would they really survive unscathed? Is there anything we can do to get rid of them? I would love to get your take on this.
Question: I get why we shouldn't use a high nitrogen fertilizer in late summer/fall, but what about fertilizer that promotes root growth? I'm in zone 8a/b and expect root growth well into/through winter. Would this be a way to somewhat "push growth" without causing problems?
When garden annuals are dying back in the fall here in zone 6b, is it better to cut them down to the ground and leave the roots or should they be totally removed?
Hey Jim, what are your thoughts on planting asiatic jasmine or a similar ground cover under an older oak tree? Will this be harmful to the oak? Thanks man and I watch your videos everyday! 🍻
Hi Jim! I’m in zone 8b Florida Gulf Coast. My two year old knockout rose bushes ( 8 total ) have become tall and leggy at approximately 3 feet, growing and still blooming but have very little foliage. They are in an area that gets 5-6 hrs direct sun. Can I trim them now and how do I get them to grow fuller versus taller. Thanks!
Nothing is Everything. There’s another tee shirt. 😂 Your trachy is beautiful! Growing faster than mine. Don’t think they are fond of hot summer nights.
I live in zone 7b and planted an ivory halo dogwood two weeks ago in an area that gets sun until around 2pm. I realize now it’s only zoned up to zone 7. I can move it up a shadier spot, but should I wait until spring to let it settle in or, since it can take the cold better than the heat, move it now to give it a chance to settle in before the heat of the summer?
Hey Jim! Love watching HortTube! I purchased two Quick Fire standards in May and have planted them on both sides of my front yard. They both have leaf spot which I am assuming is a fungus and I have sprayed them both with Copper Fungicide (not every week, but about once a month for 3 applications total). I know I should remove the affected leaves but once I noticed it, it is on every single leaf. Should I just keep spraying and see if it comes out of dormancy okay next spring. Of course, these are two of the most expensive items I purchased for my front bed redos. Ugh.......
I think I left my Mahonia in the container a bit too long. Some of the leaves were starting to brown, crunchy like. I had been watering it though. I have since transplanted in the ground. Do you think it will bounce back? I am in zone 7a/b.
Jim, Zone 7B- Question-I removed six huge pampas grasses from the middle of my garden creating a large 10'x14'x 2' hole in the ground. Since I can't find more red clay to fill it with, what do I use as filler so that I can use the area to plant more shrubs and perennials without drowning them...Thanks in advance!
I live in Oklahoma zone 7b and I have several Magnolia trees and the roots are sitting halfway above the ground and I can’t plant anything around them. Can I cover the roots with more soil? I also have a slope going towards a creek and the east side and its very shady, what should I plant to reinforce the creek bed?
I Just bought two false Hollys (goshiki) from the nursery. I live in 6a in Connecticut. Should I overwinter them on my covered porch , garage or in my basement and plant them in the spring and if so, What is the best method for keeping them alive through the winter. I only find them at this time of year and not in the spring.
Just mulched my garden beds big space, added weed fabric and failed to do my homework regarding adding landscape fabric 😢. Just led myself by the landscapers. I did see your video on pros and cons on adding fabric underneath mulch. Should I let it be until next year hoping my plants camellias myrtles gardenias azaleas hydrangeas do well. Or should I remove now? This is so hard since I paid so much money, I know I should’ve done my homework.
I have noticed a huge uptick in thrips this year (garden’s second season) on both ornamentals and edibles. I have heavily mulched with arborist chips and have concerns they are going to overwinter in my mulch. What is your advice for how to control them? I don’t like to spray but don’t really know how else to get rid of them. I live in Seattle zone 8b.
After watching a few videos, I've realized that onions will eventually grow to the top of the soil when ready to be harvested. If I planted them too deeply, how do I know when to harvest?
Hi Jim, I’m thinking of planting a Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum 'Fire Dance'. It says that it will grow to be 3-4 ft tall and wide. Is this a size that it can reasonably be maintained. I am in England Zone 8a so our summers are no where near as strong as an 8a in the southern US, will the cooler summer restrict its growth? Also do you think they are reasonably drought tolerant, this is because the site I’m planting in is close by to a Willow tree. I’ve got a sunshine ligustrum to plant there and I liked your pairing of the two plants. Thanks for any advice.
Hi Jim, we are going to start mulching twice a year thanks to your recommendation! We are thinking of switching from triple shred to all pine straw. The triple shred seems to get a ton of weeds a few weeks after we lay it. What do you think? Is one better than the other? We are in Raleigh, zone 7B. Thank you!!
Hi Jim! Another question about the Oakleaf Hydrangea 'Snow Queen' that I planted this spring in Zone 6B in Connecticut. It is starting to take on a strong Y shape... Over the long term do you have any tips about pruning oakleaf hydrangea to encourage less of a Y shape? I believe it would be best to prune just after it blooms next summer, is that correct? Thanks so much!
I think you will find that as it matures and establishes, it will sprout lots of new stems from stolons at the base like a small colony. So with hydrangea quercifolia, you aren't relying on a single stem for a nice full plant, when these plants look full it's because they have several dozen stems! With that said, I think pruning is up to you but remember they bloom on old wood!
I live in Adelaide Australia, zone 10 and I have 2 Sunshine blueberries in large pots. They are coming into their 4th season in the pots and last year they were prolific with fruit and looked amazing. They were looking amazing again, covered in fruit at the end of winter when they flower and set fruit here, and then as soon as our weather warmed up in early spring, with days around 25 degrees Celsius, the leaves all began to burn and defoliate, fruit has not yet dropped. I have not changed anything but wondered if this was either from too much fertilizer and soil acidifier added to the pots at the end of winter or if they have just become so root bound in their pots they are clogging the drainage holes and they are holding too much moisture as the soil is very moist under the surface. Any suggestions or other reasons this may be happening would be appreciated, I really don't want to lose them, thank you in advance.
I tried to get my napping teenager to come watch by asking, “Don’t you want to come see how great Jim Putnam’s garden looks and how ours is garbage?” That didn’t work. :-)
Hi Jim, I am in zone 8B Ft. Walton Beach, Fl. I planted a Camellia Japonica this Spring in an area that got full sun until 2 p.m. It started showing signs of leaf burn early in the summer and I had to move it to a shadier area. The tag said full sun so I was confused. It has still not quite recovered and has a few branches that have not put out new growth. Should I just wait until spring to see what happens or can I prune back these limbs now? Thank you for your help with this.
What are your thoughts on “bottomless pots” as espoused by Bunny Guinness? I have tried it with some success. I have used Althea plants using this method, one plant per pot. The decorative pot with the elevated plant gives a focal point to the garden bed. Of course, I adjust the watering drip line to that pot.
I am in 7b Northwest Alabama I am trying to propagate a incrediball hydrangea using pots with slits cut in it like you showed in previous videos My question is can i leave the plants in the pots over the winter and plant them in the spring ? If not and cut it loose from parent plant how would you overwinter the pots?
Question: this year my tomato crop was decimated by hornworms. They even went after the small tomatoes which has never happened to me before. In my experience they live the small tomatoes alone. Is there anything to prevent or deal with hornworms in the future? Or should I quit growing tomatoes? I grew mostly heirloom tomatoes this year with a few hybrids intermixed but they were all equally effected. The blue and cream were the least bothered but we had to throw out so many tomatoes this year it was so sad. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you! Great video as always!
Like many others, my garden isn't just for my own visual and olfactory pleasure. The birds and bees matter. I often see/hear about plants that offer winter food for the non-migrating birds but which trees or shrubs do birds for winter shelter? I am sure that the evergreens are at the top of the list here, but is there some that are preferred over others? This may not be a fair question for you as it's more an ornithological than botanical. But if you or anyone else has some info, or a link to a reliable site, I would appreciate it if you would share it. As I was getting ready to post this, the subject of deer arose. It's nearly impossible to plant all deer resistant plants. And they can be quite bold. I have found deer tacks at the bottom of my steps where they stood to dine on whatever potted plant was within reach while 4 medium to large size dogs that are fenced less than 15' away go ballistic. I am not a big fan of roses but I do have 3 that I would like to see produce healthy foliage and lovely blooms. Deer are a big fan of roses and are quite happy to leave you with nothing but thorny sticks. Then I discovered, by trial and error, the tea bag method of repelling deer. I allow my used tea bags (the ones with strings attached) to dry out. I then rub in copious amounts of Deer-B-Gone, aka Vicks Vapo-Rub, and tie the stinky tea bags to outer limbs of the rose bush, especially the sides that the deer approach. The deer seem to resent having their sinuses opened up in this manner and go back to the huge acreage of oak trees and acorns and other food sources that surround me. OK. You don't have to use tea bags. Any strip of cloth will do. Nor do you have to tie the "stink bag" directly to the plant. You can put stakes close to the plant and tie to that. Another option is to set unobtrusive stakes around the perimeter of a single plant or an entire bed, then use a green twine to make a line from stake to stake and tie the tea bags to the line, spacing as needed. Putting a line close to the bottom would most likely repel rabbits. I reapply the Vicks Vapo-Rub every 10 to 14 days or after it has rained. I haven't tried them, but Tea Tree Oil or Eucalyptus Oil may work. Hope this helps someone in some small way.
A friend of mine has a Hawthorne tree - major needles but excellent nesting for the birds because they love it - predators can't reach them AND you have the added benefit of berries that provide food for birds and mammals in winter. I will be planting two of them in Spring!
Jim, have the Joro spiders reached your area yet? In north Georgia, they've exploded. I'm not one to eliminate spiders but I'm wondering if they're responsible for the marked decrease of pollinators in my yard. Almost no other spiders like the orb weavers are left.
Just kill the bastards. I carry a small butane torch around with me and anytime I find them, as long as it's safe to do, I set their butts on fire. Don't forget the diminutive male and any egg sacs you find in the web. I have almost no orb weavers or garden spiders now. Only a few funnel spiders. I am not happy.
I'm in 7b/8a OTP and we have had way less joro this year than the previous 2 years. I figured the birds were eating them. I've seen maybe 10 this year in my neck of the woods vs hundreds in the previous 2 years.
Weed control fabric is horrible. I did not know what it was since i lived in apartments all my life till i moved into this house 5 years ago and i keep finding while gardening. Is like somebody dumped trash in the soil. I will never use it.
Thank you for the Q&A content. It’s much appreciated as I learn from others. I purchased 2 Oak leaf Hollys hoping to start an evergreen privacy screen. Well by the look of the leaves the heat absolutely fried them and I’m sick about it. Is it any way possible that they are still alive at the roots, maybe, just maybe? I’m afraid to pull it up to look. This summer was one for the books (Dallas, TX). Thanks
Hi Jim, I want to thank you for sharing information on fertilizer. I learned alot on this video. Blessings
I've reduced the lawn area of my suburban home landscape by ~60%. The dog enjoys playing fetch and laying in the cool grass. The rest is trees and shrubs. I've never counted, but I suspect there're 200+/- different species. Horttube has been an invaluable resource for me.
Same. Front bermuda lawn gone. Back cool season lawn reduced by 60% but I left a good long strip of it for my dog to be able to run. Water bill way down. Everything (disease/fungus/short tailed crickets/the sun) tries to kill my lawn but few things try to kill my plants. More work building a garden up front but less work and stress over time replacing it with garden.
I, for one, like your long answers! Keep them coming.. I learn so much from you.
You are really knowledgeable man! I have learned a ton by watching your videos!
I was so pleased to hear that you don't use plastic. I don't even use plastic in my house. No plastic is a good thing.
My favorite part of every Q&A: when Jim says “Okayeeee” 😂 Jim, if I do need to spray for English ivy or the like, how long do I wait to replant the area?
I believe he has said in the past to wait a year after using glysophate but I could be wrong.
Good question! And another follow-up question about ivy & vinca: Is it ok to spray along a creek bank, environmentally speaking? Or should the viney things be left alone there to slow down erosion? Thanks for answering my original question this week. Will definitely try spraying, and I'm excited to get planting other things sooner!
Jim, I love your long answers! I always learn somehing from those answers! Not all who wander are lost...
Love the Q&A’s. When removing annuals for the season, do you recommend pulling them out or cutting them at the base? I didn’t know if there could be some benefit or detriment to leaving the roots in the soil. Thank you for your expertise!
Thank you Jim Putnam you are always talking sense with the Qand A's... nice change from so many gardening videos.
On the multiple plants in a pot. I often look for these since they can be divided and sometimes you can get 3-5 plants from one pot. Especially with perennials. So I can plant 3 Echinacea spread out a bit and get a group from one pots worth. Last week one, very full, 1 gal Penstemon turned into 5 decent sized divisions. $12 well spent, for me.
The reason I mow my 4 acre yard once a week is because I use it for mulch and compost. I collect it all through the summer, pile it up and turn it with the tractor every couple of weeks. Sometimes I don't even go to that trouble. I spread the pile under my plants and no weeds come through it. An old timer gave me the tip years ago when I asked him what kind of fertilizer he used on his garden, because his bell peppers were massive, along with everything else in his garden. He said that is all he uses. Other than the gas in the mower and time, of course, it's pretty inexpensive. I don't think the benefits happen over night, however. It takes time for soil to condition.
Thanks Jim! You're the best 🙌
Thank you very much for your time and expertise.
🌸🌳🍁🍂 🏵
Thank you so much for taking your time to educate us, learning a great of information.
What causes hostas to get smaller over time, you are one of my favorite gardening videos for plant information thank you
After a few years dividing them will help make bigger healthier plants and best of all free plants😉
I’ve stopped using weed control fabric and the mulch works fine.
Thanks Jim!
I am in the UK but watch a lot of US gardening vlogs (mainly because there arn't many good British garden vloggers). But it is interesting to note how many are actively promoting the use of Plantone etc, or Proven Winners plants, presumably because all are either sponsored by these companies, or hope to be sponsored. It is refreshing to watch you being 'advert tree's and providing gardening advice based purely on best practice.
Thank you Jim. 🍁🍂🍁💚🙃
❤🙏hello Mr Jim and Stephany I miss you guys, may all prosperous be with always.
Thanks Jim
The palm tree looks great next to the porch
Thx Jim
Q: how to get rid of voles, please?! Little monsters are killing my flower bed one plant at the time...
🙋🏻♀️
I appreciate the long answers and explanations.
One possible video suggestion would be dependable fall color plants in zone 7B- fall color is not something our area is known for & seems dependent on weather conditions/ early frost, etc but I'm sure there are certain plants you can count on for this here. Thank you!
Other evil weed candidates for fall spraying: Japanese knotweed and wisteria. I pull or smoother what weeds I can but there are certain things that require stronger measures. The good thing about glyphosate (Roundup) is that it breaks down pretty quickly in the soil.
Roundup stays in the soil 3-249 days. It all depends on your environment.
I had both vinca and English ivy all around my 1942 house when I bought it 17 years ago. It's in my next door neighbor's yard and has been veey difficult to get rid of. I did have to use Roundup early on to get the worst out. I even now see it occasionally and pull it out before it can be deeply embedded. I live in zone 7B so everything grows rapidly.
Gorgeous backdrop HortTube man , both areas 💚💚
We just took out the last of our landscape fabric recently- I thought. But I planted some perennials the other day and the auger hit some.
I had a pot just sitting on the ground and the roots of the plant I had in the pot grew through the drainage holes anchoring itself to the ground plugging the drainage holes completely . That was a nightmare for me trying to get the plant out of the pot without destroying the pot and the plant. A lesson learned for sure ! 🍁🍂🍁💚🙃
I just removed a tomato plant that I grew in a large planter, then buried the planter in the ground because it was a very large planter -- visually I didn't like the overall height of the planter. Never again! There was a large, singular root that has grown through the single drain hole -- wow! What a effort to remove the plant and root. Oh well, live and learn.
Hello watching from japan….thank you and learning a lot from your channel
Thank you so much!
Hi Jim, do you have any tips for black spot, powdery mildew, and other fungal issues? I just thin the foilage for air flow and some neem oil spray, but alas, the fungus persists. Should I invest in a heavy duty horticultural oil? Perhaps the "winter oils" people use during a plants dormancy?
Good morning! Thank you for sharing your expertise.
Thanks for watching!
Howdy from Texas. I’ve learned so much from watching your videos. My garden thanks you.
"I don't want to say, weed control fabric is terrible. But it kinda is." 😉 When you're trying to remove fabric that's been there for years, you curse, loudly and scare your neighbors. 😁
Good morning Jim! Another great Garden Q&A video. If having to spray round up to clear the invasive vines, how long before you are able to plant up that area afterwards?
I recall Jim explaining before that glyphosate has no mechanism of action in soil. So as long as it has dried, and there were no other herbicides in the spray, you should be good. It could take you a few applications and some time for the vines to die, though.
What I did in a 150sq/ft area with very established Vinca in 2021 was I sprayed all the vinca twice, 14 days apart in the fall. In the early spring of 2022 I planted an American Holly, an edgeworthia, and some other perennials. As the remnants of the surviving vinca sprouted, I used a brush and painted the emerging vines with glyphosate. This year, in 2023, I have only had one vinca vine try to emerge this entire season, so I'd call this, in spite of the long timeframe, a huge success. Liriope is a different ongoing story haha.
@@ryandmiller thank you so much!
Roundup is systemic
I have friends that lost new plants after planting in the treated area after 6 months. Their new plants only lasted 2-5 years.
There is no way to tell - it's up to you but I would never use the stuff but if I did I would remove and replace the soil.
@sherriianiro747 how could they know that the reason the plants only lasted 2-5 years is due to a round up application 6 months prior to planting? I am also not sure how glyphosate being a systemic has anything to do with planting in soil where it has previously been used. My understanding is that systemics affect the whole plant, including the roots, but it's absorbed through the foliage, not absorbed via the roots. I am no proponent of herbicides, I pick weeds by hand. But my approach is like what Jim said in the video, I reserve them for invasives that I may never be able to eradicate otherwise.
“Nothing was fertilized before humans came around.” Thanks for not pushing products gardeners don’t need.🌸
Love that you’ve filmed in a different area of the yard than usual!
Question: I'm trying to establish a pollinator garden. Is it helpful to plant moisture-loving natives like buttonbush and cardinal flower 'low' (below grade)? Tennessee / 6B
Hey Jim, was planning to plant some Miss Huff lantana this coming week after watching your recent video. I'm in 7b Charlotte, think it's to late in the year for them to establish for a return after winter?
Thanks Jim for the redbud help! Will get some annuals and ensure the root areas are shaded!
You raise a good point about having a lawn. I have mines for ornamental value, especially in the back yard but the gardener in me says, “Hey, that’s a good spot for a new garden bed.” 😅
I’ve been gardening for 50 years but still signed up for your Lear To Garden series and I love it.
I’m in FOREST CITY NC. zone 7a I have an Illicium floridanum that’s doing great in a large pot. I meant to plant it but didn’t get around to it. Since it’s marginal hardy, should I still plant or overwinter it somehow?
2nd request. I have an old Dogwood tree that is dying and need to be cut down, can I immediately spread the ground up tree around to improve my garden soil? Thank you love watching your videos I have learned a lot.
I think you certainly can. Arborist chips are delivered straight from chipping up a tree, and can be used immediately. I’ve used them, and they worked great.
You were talking about how natural fertilizers occur, my question to you is, are there certain tree leaves that aren’t as beneficial to certain plants or are otherwise toxic in certain situations? of your knowledge sharing! Love the videos, and the house is looking great!
Black walnut trees come to mind
What happens when a tree is grown in a pot, but that tree normally grows a taproot? This has been in the back of my head for a while, but the White Pine question reminded me. For example, cercis canadensis come up in my yard in central Oklahoma like weeds. Redbuds, in my clay soil, have taproots. One I dug out was a 2ft tall tree with a 3ft deep taproot which explains why it had full sun and no burn from the summer. However if I buy a pot grown redbud from the nursery, which I have, there is obviously no taproot, or at least the taproot it tried to grow couldn't grow as such. Once I plant the pot grown redbud, will it then decide to grow a taproot? Or has that process been interrupted and will no longer occur? I think the topic of roots in general could be expanded and warrant its own video here or on Learn to Garden 😉
Fall pollinator plants for 8A, ATL GA? I've got purple mist flower in the yard from the previous owners. I think it's a mint family so it's really taken over. But gosh aren't they covered in and attracting so many butterflies, especially monarchs. These bloom later in the season and I think they went until first frost. (And my lantana have already berried)
I have vinca minor and it is everywhere. I made the mistake of not taking it out early. Now I worry about collateral damage from spraying.
Thanks for another good video! I’m preparing to put down mulch this fall as per your recommendation to do mulch twice a year. I have a large pile of well rotted horse manure (I keep horses at home) that’s been turned over a few times and would like to use it as my mulch since I have it on hand. It’s quite fine; crumbly and light weight. It’s not totally weed seed free though as evidenced by the crab grass growing on top of the compost pile. I feel confident that it would add beneficial nutrients to my gardens, but a lot less sure it’s gonna help suppress weeds. Any thoughts on using less than perfect compost as mulch?
I learn so much from your channel. Keep up the good work.
⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️⭐️ What are some 5-6’ “ish” plants that could be used as a hedge that can tolerate winter wind? I live in zone 9a a little inland from the coast.
I tried Sunshine Ligustrum but they did not thrive. Considering Gold Mop Cypress since two neighbors have them. Prefer a gold color since house is grey but open to anything at this point. Thank you LOVE your channel! 😍
Always look forward to your videos, thank you! Question: I lost a few marginally hardy perennials (I am in N. Atlanta) last winter and would like to avoid a repeat of that. Specifically, we lost all of our sterling moon begonias. The begonias were planted in the Spring so they had plenty of time to get established by Winter and they were well mulched. My best guess is that it was moisture, not cold temps, that killed them. I love this plant so I bought more of them again this Spring. Any suggestions on how to increase their odds of survival this Winter? I am considering some covering for their winter dormancy that will limit (but not eliminate) the amount of water they receive. We have a cold frame and can transplant them there for the Winter but not sure that transplanting them prior to Winter is preferable to leaving them where they are and covering them to reduce moisture. Many thanks!
Great questions! And love the look of the home now, so nice. I have had great luck using Biotone (1-2c in the bottom of the hole) but I think I'm going to experiment next year - pots of annuals, one with Biotone, one with Plantone, one with synthetic, one with none. I hypothesize that my patio will be more colorful at the very least. 😅
Turf grass is also a garden plant.
Hi Holly!
so when Holly Tone says fertilize in spring and fall should we not do a fall app? love the vids brother come to Georgetown County ill show you some outstanding gardens
Oklahoma 7a-I have a Royal Hawaiian® Waikiki Elephant Ear that I planted in the Spring. Should I dig it up this Fall or could I mulch well and it will be ok?
I have Pampas Grass that I can't get to produce plumes. What is the most likely issue? Zone 7a.
Enjoyed your September lantana video. You stated that they can easily be rooted from cuttings. Do you recommend rooting in water or with rooting hormone in soil? I attempted rooting some in water last year, unsuccessfully.
In my central California garden, lantana is extremely invasive. It tries to take over and has to be fought all the time. It's almost as bad as burmuda grass.
I said that in the lantana video
Hi Jim. I have tried to grow agapanthus in a pot for two years in a row, but have had no luck getting blooms. The first year I had one plant in a big pot. I later read they don’t like too much space. This year I put 3 plants in the same pot. The plants are healthy,but again no blooms. At this point, I am thinking of just planting the 3 in the ground. Will they have time to settle in before winter. I am in Atlanta.
I live in Apex, zone 7B….I have a tea olive that came to me in a large pot with limited soil. When I put it in the ground, I thought I shouldn’t bury anything that wasn’t already covered by dirt, but there are a few exposed large roots. It’s only been in the ground since May, but now I’m concerned that this is going to be detrimental to the plant. It has new growth seems happy, but I don’t want to lose it. What would you advise?
There was hardly a growing season in my life that I have NOT been stung by a bee, mostly honey bees. Often times more than one sting. Luckily I'm not allergic to them and I pretty much expect it every year. Just part of gardening for me.
I also hadn’t been stung for decades . . . until a carpenter bee got me last Thursday after deadheading ‘Miss Molly’ butterfly bush at dusk. They are out and about in force here! 😮
Is it worth deadheading pansies and snapdragons planted in October in zone 7 like you do for your summer annuals? Or just enjoy the blooms before frost hits hard
Hi Jim. We've recently moved to GA (7b) (today is actually exactly 1 year!) and our house is a new build on a wooded lot. We put in a LOT of new plants (shrubs/trees/perennials) this past spring, as well as some sod. My question is, now that Fall is nearly upon us, how long do we keep watering this stuff? We had hit or miss rain over the summer, so we needed to supplement watering pretty often, but I know some of these things will be dying back so they shouldn't need watering, right? We have a lot of southern evergreen things like camellias, tea olives, gold mop cypress, magnolia, Carolina jessamine, etc... do they need to be watered at least through a full year of being in the ground? I don't want to inadvertently kill off a bunch of newly established plantings because I'm being lazy. :) As always, thanks for all you do! Love all the information - you're the best!
Q: Moss seems to be choking out my shade plants. How to get rid of it? Thanks!
We live in Charleston 8b/9 and we wanted to remove some Japanese Privets (builders planted them about 4-5 yrs ago) planted on side of house in full sun and want to replant them to add to our privacy screen out back in Part sun. They are about 6 feet right now. Should we wait until spring or is ok to do now? Also if we decide to do it about how much should we trim off the shrub before moving it? Thanks, love your channel. 👍🏾
I look forward to these Q&As every Sunday. Thank you! I'm here in Raleigh and yesterday was pulling out spent plants in our vegetable garden and noticed we had root knot nematodes on some of the green beans. We've been growing vegetables in this area for 15 years. We have clay soil, add mulched leaves every year, have been rotating crops as much as possible (the area isn't that big) and this is the first time we've encountered this. Why all of a sudden would we have this problem? We did bring in some hummus this Spring from a local reputable company. Could it have come in with this? If we grow plants next year that is said to be "resistant to this organism" would they really survive unscathed? Is there anything we can do to get rid of them? I would love to get your take on this.
Hi! Hate to hear you’re dealing with this. Have you looked into beneficial nematodes? Good luck!
@@jennaandparkerstaggs1113 Since I just happened on this yesterday I'm reading all I can and will look into this. Thank you!
Question: I get why we shouldn't use a high nitrogen fertilizer in late summer/fall, but what about fertilizer that promotes root growth? I'm in zone 8a/b and expect root growth well into/through winter. Would this be a way to somewhat "push growth" without causing problems?
When garden annuals are dying back in the fall here in zone 6b, is it better to cut them down to the ground and leave the roots or should they be totally removed?
Hey Jim, what are your thoughts on planting asiatic jasmine or a similar ground cover under an older oak tree? Will this be harmful to the oak? Thanks man and I watch your videos everyday! 🍻
Hi Jim! I’m in zone 8b Florida Gulf Coast. My two year old knockout rose bushes ( 8 total ) have become tall and leggy at approximately 3 feet, growing and still blooming but have very little foliage. They are in an area that gets 5-6 hrs direct sun. Can I trim them now and how do I get them to grow fuller versus taller. Thanks!
Thanks Jim and Stephany for all that you teach us!!!
Would you include Everillo Carex in with the grasses that you wouldn’t plant in the fall?
Nothing is Everything. There’s another tee shirt. 😂
Your trachy is beautiful! Growing faster than mine. Don’t think they are fond of hot summer nights.
I live in zone 7b and planted an ivory halo dogwood two weeks ago in an area that gets sun until around 2pm. I realize now it’s only zoned up to zone 7. I can move it up a shadier spot, but should I wait until spring to let it settle in or, since it can take the cold better than the heat, move it now to give it a chance to settle in before the heat of the summer?
Hey Jim! Love watching HortTube! I purchased two Quick Fire standards in May and have planted them on both sides of my front yard. They both have leaf spot which I am assuming is a fungus and I have sprayed them both with Copper Fungicide (not every week, but about once a month for 3 applications total). I know I should remove the affected leaves but once I noticed it, it is on every single leaf. Should I just keep spraying and see if it comes out of dormancy okay next spring. Of course, these are two of the most expensive items I purchased for my front bed redos. Ugh.......
I think I left my Mahonia in the container a bit too long. Some of the leaves were starting to brown, crunchy like. I had been watering it though. I have since transplanted in the ground. Do you think it will bounce back? I am in zone 7a/b.
Jim, Zone 7B- Question-I removed six huge pampas grasses from the middle of my garden creating a large 10'x14'x 2' hole in the ground. Since I can't find more red clay to fill it with, what do I use as filler so that I can use the area to plant more shrubs and perennials without drowning them...Thanks in advance!
I live in Oklahoma zone 7b and I have several Magnolia trees and the roots are sitting halfway above the ground and I can’t plant anything around them. Can I cover the roots with more soil? I also have a slope going towards a creek and the east side and its very shady, what should I plant to reinforce the creek bed?
I Just bought two false Hollys (goshiki) from the nursery. I live in 6a in Connecticut. Should I overwinter them on my covered porch , garage or in my basement and plant them in the spring and if so, What is the best method for keeping them alive through the winter. I only find them at this time of year and not in the spring.
Just mulched my garden beds big space, added weed fabric and failed to do my homework regarding adding landscape fabric 😢. Just led myself by the landscapers. I did see your video on pros and cons on adding fabric underneath mulch. Should I let it be until next year hoping my plants camellias myrtles gardenias azaleas hydrangeas do well. Or should I remove now? This is so hard since I paid so much money, I know I should’ve done my homework.
I have noticed a huge uptick in thrips this year (garden’s second season) on both ornamentals and edibles. I have heavily mulched with arborist chips and have concerns they are going to overwinter in my mulch. What is your advice for how to control them? I don’t like to spray but don’t really know how else to get rid of them.
I live in Seattle zone 8b.
What do you think of using netting to keep deer from eating your plants?
After watching a few videos, I've realized that onions will eventually grow to the top of the soil when ready to be harvested. If I planted them too deeply, how do I know when to harvest?
Hi Jim, I’m thinking of planting a Loropetalum chinense var. rubrum 'Fire Dance'. It says that it will grow to be 3-4 ft tall and wide. Is this a size that it can reasonably be maintained. I am in England Zone 8a so our summers are no where near as strong as an 8a in the southern US, will the cooler summer restrict its growth? Also do you think they are reasonably drought tolerant, this is because the site I’m planting in is close by to a Willow tree. I’ve got a sunshine ligustrum to plant there and I liked your pairing of the two plants. Thanks for any advice.
Hi Jim, we are going to start mulching twice a year thanks to your recommendation! We are thinking of switching from triple shred to all pine straw. The triple shred seems to get a ton of weeds a few weeks after we lay it. What do you think? Is one better than the other? We are in Raleigh, zone 7B. Thank you!!
Best bets for native shrubs that will survive under a maple?
Hi Jim! Another question about the Oakleaf Hydrangea 'Snow Queen' that I planted this spring in Zone 6B in Connecticut. It is starting to take on a strong Y shape... Over the long term do you have any tips about pruning oakleaf hydrangea to encourage less of a Y shape? I believe it would be best to prune just after it blooms next summer, is that correct? Thanks so much!
I think you will find that as it matures and establishes, it will sprout lots of new stems from stolons at the base like a small colony. So with hydrangea quercifolia, you aren't relying on a single stem for a nice full plant, when these plants look full it's because they have several dozen stems! With that said, I think pruning is up to you but remember they bloom on old wood!
I live in Adelaide Australia, zone 10 and I have 2 Sunshine blueberries in large pots. They are coming into their 4th season in the pots and last year they were prolific with fruit and looked amazing. They were looking amazing again, covered in fruit at the end of winter when they flower and set fruit here, and then as soon as our weather warmed up in early spring, with days around 25 degrees Celsius, the leaves all began to burn and defoliate, fruit has not yet dropped. I have not changed anything but wondered if this was either from too much fertilizer and soil acidifier added to the pots at the end of winter or if they have just become so root bound in their pots they are clogging the drainage holes and they are holding too much moisture as the soil is very moist under the surface. Any suggestions or other reasons this may be happening would be appreciated, I really don't want to lose them, thank you in advance.
I tried to get my napping teenager to come watch by asking, “Don’t you want to come see how great Jim Putnam’s garden looks and how ours is garbage?” That didn’t work. :-)
Jim, I ordered 3 weiglas & a pugster butterfly bush online and they were 1 quart size. Are they safe to plant now in zone 6?
Hi Jim, I am in zone 8B Ft. Walton Beach, Fl. I planted a Camellia Japonica this Spring in an area that got full sun until 2 p.m. It started showing signs of leaf burn early in the summer and I had to move it to a shadier area. The tag said full sun so I was confused. It has still not quite recovered and has a few branches that have not put out new growth. Should I just wait until spring to see what happens or can I prune back these limbs now? Thank you for your help with this.
What are your thoughts on “bottomless pots” as espoused by Bunny Guinness? I have tried it with some success. I have used Althea plants using this method, one plant per pot. The decorative pot with the elevated plant gives a focal point to the garden bed. Of course, I adjust the watering drip line to that pot.
I am in 7b Northwest Alabama
I am trying to propagate a incrediball hydrangea using pots with slits cut in it like you showed in previous videos
My question is can i leave the plants in the pots over the winter and plant them in the spring ?
If not and cut it loose from parent plant how would you overwinter the pots?
Question: this year my tomato crop was decimated by hornworms. They even went after the small tomatoes which has never happened to me before. In my experience they live the small tomatoes alone. Is there anything to prevent or deal with hornworms in the future? Or should I quit growing tomatoes? I grew mostly heirloom tomatoes this year with a few hybrids intermixed but they were all equally effected. The blue and cream were the least bothered but we had to throw out so many tomatoes this year it was so sad. Any advice would be appreciated. Thank you!
Great video as always!
Like many others, my garden isn't just for my own visual and olfactory pleasure. The birds and bees matter. I often see/hear about plants that offer winter food for the non-migrating birds but which trees or shrubs do birds for winter shelter? I am sure that the evergreens are at the top of the list here, but is there some that are preferred over others?
This may not be a fair question for you as it's more an ornithological than botanical. But if you or anyone else has some info, or a link to a reliable site, I would appreciate it if you would share it.
As I was getting ready to post this, the subject of deer arose. It's nearly impossible to plant all deer resistant plants. And they can be quite bold. I have found deer tacks at the bottom of my steps where they stood to dine on whatever potted plant was within reach while 4 medium to large size dogs that are fenced less than 15' away go ballistic.
I am not a big fan of roses but I do have 3 that I would like to see produce healthy foliage and lovely blooms. Deer are a big fan of roses and are quite happy to leave you with nothing but thorny sticks. Then I discovered, by trial and error, the tea bag method of repelling deer. I allow my used tea bags (the ones with strings attached) to dry out. I then rub in copious amounts of Deer-B-Gone, aka Vicks Vapo-Rub, and tie the stinky tea bags to outer limbs of the rose bush, especially the sides that the deer approach. The deer seem to resent having their sinuses opened up in this manner and go back to the huge acreage of oak trees and acorns and other food sources that surround me.
OK. You don't have to use tea bags. Any strip of cloth will do. Nor do you have to tie the "stink bag" directly to the plant. You can put stakes close to the plant and tie to that. Another option is to set unobtrusive stakes around the perimeter of a single plant or an entire bed, then use a green twine to make a line from stake to stake and tie the tea bags to the line, spacing as needed. Putting a line close to the bottom would most likely repel rabbits. I reapply the Vicks Vapo-Rub every 10 to 14 days or after it has rained. I haven't tried them, but Tea Tree Oil or Eucalyptus Oil may work.
Hope this helps someone in some small way.
A friend of mine has a Hawthorne tree - major needles but excellent nesting for the birds because they love it - predators can't reach them AND you have the added benefit of berries that provide food for birds and mammals in winter. I will be planting two of them in Spring!
@@sherriianiro747 Thanks. I will look that tree up.
@@katiedotson704 You're welcome!
Jim, have the Joro spiders reached your area yet? In north Georgia, they've exploded. I'm not one to eliminate spiders but I'm wondering if they're responsible for the marked decrease of pollinators in my yard. Almost no other spiders like the orb weavers are left.
Just kill the bastards. I carry a small butane torch around with me and anytime I find them, as long as it's safe to do, I set their butts on fire. Don't forget the diminutive male and any egg sacs you find in the web. I have almost no orb weavers or garden spiders now. Only a few funnel spiders. I am not happy.
I'm in 7b/8a OTP and we have had way less joro this year than the previous 2 years. I figured the birds were eating them. I've seen maybe 10 this year in my neck of the woods vs hundreds in the previous 2 years.
Weed control fabric is horrible. I did not know what it was since i lived in apartments all my life till i moved into this house 5 years ago and i keep finding while gardening. Is like somebody dumped trash in the soil. I will never use it.
Thank you for the Q&A content. It’s much appreciated as I learn from others. I purchased 2 Oak leaf Hollys hoping to start an evergreen privacy screen. Well by the look of the leaves the heat absolutely fried them and I’m sick about it. Is it any way possible that they are still alive at the roots, maybe, just maybe? I’m afraid to pull it up to look. This summer was one for the books (Dallas, TX). Thanks
Do you have any experience with a Smoke Bush?
💚💚💚💚❓💚💚💚💚
I love your content but way too many annoying ads. Ugh
That’s not on Jim, but UA-cam
It's UA-cam not Jim doing that
That’s why I have UA-cam premium. No ads! But, the price is very steep!
It does make UA-cam amazing though
It is , too much