Hi do you mind if I can ask your opinion please, I've dug out my footings ready for concreting I'm going to come out of the ground with block then having my frames on this then I'm thinking rather than a concrete slab putting a wall plate on the block around and having a suspended floor with vents do you think this is OK.
Hi - From what I understand, most of these garden rooms are built using suspended floors. So long as you have really good cross ventilation, vapour barriers etc I can see a problem. Most houses with suspended floors use this approach with good vent arrangements. Suggest using tantalised timber and also add your own preservative on cut ends etc. Please note I am no expert, but I think your approach will be ok
Great job , Andrew , a lot of work on your own , but should be a great house . how is the oven holding up 👍👍. After somemore trials , created some small test domes I gave up with the perlite and fondu ,so now Im going with a castable mix . looking forward to the next installment
Hi Andrew - sorry to hear the issues with building the pizza oven dome - I hope the castable mix works better for you...I built mine with vermiculite, its soft when accidentally knocked with the pizza shovel but is doing ok so far. Thanks for your encouragement regarding the garden room. Its going well but hampered at the mo with atrocious weather
Great series, really learned so much! Can you tell me how wide, and how deep you dug the trenches round before pouring the foundation and laying brick work? Fantastic videos again! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi - I think about a spades width and possibly 6” - 8” trench. In my situation I was on fairly compacted sub soil so a good base to work from. It would be important to look at your own ground situation and make a judgement from there. I was digging by hand so had energy levels and motivation to consider! Hope that helps
Hi - difficult to say as I ran out of concrete mix partway through laying the slab. But for 4.0m x 3.0m I would say 1/2 dumpy bag sub base, 1.5 dumpy bags of ‘concrete’ mix, 6-8 bags of building sand for the vid queen to lay on. I just bought bags of cement as I needed them, but ordered 6 bags to start with. I hope that helps. I had my own concrete mixer so did all the mixing myself on site. You might be better getting a ready mix in and helpers with wheelbarrows.
Interesting to watch , I used to do this for a living 20 odd year back !! Not easy to level and float off a floor on your own . So far so good look forward to part 2 . No bike trips planned ? atb Dave
Hi Dave - it’s a hard way to make a living that’s for sure. I’m a bit wary of the current situation to feel confident about bike trips at the moment..might get cabin fever and head off at some point though. Looked like you had a grand trip in the Lakes..Regards 👍
Solway17 Carlisle 24 years since I packed it in but still do stuff at home , like and extension 3 year back 😂 was hoping to do a few bike trips but when I’m off work the weather always turns nasty
A full extension is a real achievement bet you’re glad it was a few years back as it’s hard work mixing and lifting! Aye, the weather has turned unsettled but there’s time yet Dave. Cheers...
Hi, I enjoyed your video, good to see how you did it as I'm looking at a similar project for a conservatory base. What was the benefit breaking up the existing concrete base? Wouldn't it have been better to leave it as a solid base to build onto, perhaps just do footings around it for the brick work? I only ask as I have a very similar base that I'd prefer to leave down, and put a membrane over and brickwork around the edge, prior to concrete pour. Would you do it the same way again? Thanks.
Hi - yes if you old concrete is well below your conservatory floor there’s no reason to break it up. In my case the old concrete was too near the surface of my finished floor and the overlying new slab may have been too thin and possibly prone to cracking. So in the end I dug it up and it gave me a more consistent depth for my new floor. Just make sure you have some 1200 gauge plastic/visqueen under your floor slab. Good look with your build. Hope this helps...
@@solway17carlisle Hi, thanks for taking the time to reply. Your reasons for having to take the existing concrete up are interesting, something for me to bare in mind when I'm planning it out. Cheers,
Hi, great video by the way, I’m a total noob to this and I am about to lay a concrete foundation then I hope to be able to build a shed on top, I just have a few questions and hopefully you can reply, I know it’s all got to be level (concrete foundation) so my question is how does it stop rain water from pooling on top as the shed won’t be built on it for another week or so and also I have seen other videos where people put deep lines through the concrete about every 6ft squared or so - just wondering why
Hi I built a little 2 course brick wall on top of my foundations, so you need to use a spirit level and wooden pegs to make sure you keep your level all the way around. Once I built the little wall, it was easy then to use the wall top to get the main slab nice and level. Don’t worry about the slab holding water, so long as you have a damp proof membrane and a damp proof course under your walls, you won’t get any damp. As you build the shed and get a roof on it all gradually dries out ok. My floor was 3m x 4m so I did it all in one. I’m not sure about the observation you make about gaps every 6’ or so? Perhaps on a much larger slab you need to make space for the slab to expand/contract?? But in a garden room, you just want 1 single concrete slab with dpm underneath and about 8cm or do deep. Hope that helps? Best wishes...
Hi- no, I didn’t use a Walker plate just compacted by walking/jumping in the sub base and it also stood for a few days to consolidate. I would say about 70 - 80mm for the concrete but also knew I would add tiles on top to give added strength. Thanks for watching and commenting...
Hi - it would have involved a lot of extra hand digging to achieve and also the logistics of getting rid of extra material. To some extent cost as well. It’s super insulated in the walls and ceiling, has both an electric heater and a multi fuel stove, so generally it’s quick to heat up and stays warm for the times we use it. Thanks for watching and your question..Regards
Hi Paul - I agree, but in my case the summerhouse is at the top of a steep garden with a flight of steps from the roadside so wasn’t keen on the practicalities of barrowing concrete uphill. Deffo the best option if you have good access from the roadside. Cheers, Thanks for watching 👍
Coming along very quickly, great video, looking forward to the next one!
Thanks Jason I’m enjoying doing it. Cheers 👍
That looks amazing Andrew, very exciting, looking forward to the next part.
Thanks Dawne - glad I got the heavy bit done....Cheers
Cracking job I'm just about to get my block out of the ground then sorting out the slab Thank you for sharing much appreciated.
Thanks for the comment, hope the other parts to this series will help. Good luck and enjoy the build. Regards
Hi do you mind if I can ask your opinion please, I've dug out my footings ready for concreting I'm going to come out of the ground with block then having my frames on this then I'm thinking rather than a concrete slab putting a wall plate on the block around and having a suspended floor with vents do you think this is OK.
Hi - From what I understand, most of these garden rooms are built using suspended floors. So long as you have really good cross ventilation, vapour barriers etc I can see a problem. Most houses with suspended floors use this approach with good vent arrangements. Suggest using tantalised timber and also add your own preservative on cut ends etc. Please note I am no expert, but I think your approach will be ok
Well done fella
Thanks a lot 👍
FANTASTIC WORK SIR.
Glad you appreciated it - Thanks 🙂
Great job , Andrew , a lot of work on your own , but should be a great house . how is the oven holding up 👍👍. After somemore trials , created some small test domes
I gave up with the perlite and fondu ,so now Im going with a castable mix . looking forward to the next installment
Hi Andrew - sorry to hear the issues with building the pizza oven dome - I hope the castable mix works better for you...I built mine with vermiculite, its soft when accidentally knocked with the pizza shovel but is doing ok so far. Thanks for your encouragement regarding the garden room. Its going well but hampered at the mo with atrocious weather
Great series, really learned so much! Can you tell me how wide, and how deep you dug the trenches round before pouring the foundation and laying brick work? Fantastic videos again! 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
Hi - I think about a spades width and possibly 6” - 8” trench. In my situation I was on fairly compacted sub soil so a good base to work from. It would be important to look at your own ground situation and make a judgement from there. I was digging by hand so had energy levels and motivation to consider! Hope that helps
@@solway17carlisle Yeah, I'll be digging out by hand as no access for machinery, and brings down costs if I roll up my sleeves! 🤣🤣🤣
Great stuff - take your time and it’s amazing what you can manage. All the best with it 👍
Great vid and helping me design my shed this summer. How much off the blast and cement did you have to order to make this size of concrete pad?
Hi - difficult to say as I ran out of concrete mix partway through laying the slab. But for 4.0m x 3.0m I would say 1/2 dumpy bag sub base, 1.5 dumpy bags of ‘concrete’ mix, 6-8 bags of building sand for the vid queen to lay on. I just bought bags of cement as I needed them, but ordered 6 bags to start with. I hope that helps. I had my own concrete mixer so did all the mixing myself on site. You might be better getting a ready mix in and helpers with wheelbarrows.
Interesting to watch , I used to do this for a living 20 odd year back !! Not easy to level and float off a floor on your own . So far so good look forward to part 2 . No bike trips planned ? atb Dave
Hi Dave - it’s a hard way to make a living that’s for sure. I’m a bit wary of the current situation to feel confident about bike trips at the moment..might get cabin fever and head off at some point though. Looked like you had a grand trip in the Lakes..Regards 👍
Solway17 Carlisle 24 years since I packed it in but still do stuff at home , like and extension 3 year back 😂 was hoping to do a few bike trips but when I’m off work the weather always turns nasty
A full extension is a real achievement bet you’re glad it was a few years back as it’s hard work mixing and lifting! Aye, the weather has turned unsettled but there’s time yet Dave. Cheers...
Hi, I enjoyed your video, good to see how you did it as I'm looking at a similar project for a conservatory base. What was the benefit breaking up the existing concrete base? Wouldn't it have been better to leave it as a solid base to build onto, perhaps just do footings around it for the brick work? I only ask as I have a very similar base that I'd prefer to leave down, and put a membrane over and brickwork around the edge, prior to concrete pour. Would you do it the same way again? Thanks.
Hi - yes if you old concrete is well below your conservatory floor there’s no reason to break it up. In my case the old concrete was too near the surface of my finished floor and the overlying new slab may have been too thin and possibly prone to cracking. So in the end I dug it up and it gave me a more consistent depth for my new floor. Just make sure you have some 1200 gauge plastic/visqueen under your floor slab. Good look with your build. Hope this helps...
@@solway17carlisle Hi, thanks for taking the time to reply. Your reasons for having to take the existing concrete up are interesting, something for me to bare in mind when I'm planning it out. Cheers,
😊👍
Cheers Pete 👍
Hi, great video by the way, I’m a total noob to this and I am about to lay a concrete foundation then I hope to be able to build a shed on top, I just have a few questions and hopefully you can reply, I know it’s all got to be level (concrete foundation) so my question is how does it stop rain water from pooling on top as the shed won’t be built on it for another week or so and also I have seen other videos where people put deep lines through the concrete about every 6ft squared or so - just wondering why
Hi
I built a little 2 course brick wall on top of my foundations, so you need to use a spirit level and wooden pegs to make sure you keep your level all the way around. Once I built the little wall, it was easy then to use the wall top to get the main slab nice and level. Don’t worry about the slab holding water, so long as you have a damp proof membrane and a damp proof course under your walls, you won’t get any damp. As you build the shed and get a roof on it all gradually dries out ok. My floor was 3m x 4m so I did it all in one. I’m not sure about the observation you make about gaps every 6’ or so? Perhaps on a much larger slab you need to make space for the slab to expand/contract?? But in a garden room, you just want 1 single concrete slab with dpm underneath and about 8cm or do deep. Hope that helps? Best wishes...
Nice job what depth concrete did you go for? And did you wack down the hardcore?
Hi- no, I didn’t use a Walker plate just compacted by walking/jumping in the sub base and it also stood for a few days to consolidate. I would say about 70 - 80mm for the concrete but also knew I would add tiles on top to give added strength.
Thanks for watching and commenting...
@@solway17carlisle thanks for the reply. Enjoying the rest of your build 👍
Why did you not make an insulated floor for added warmth?
Hi - it would have involved a lot of extra hand digging to achieve and also the logistics of getting rid of extra material. To some extent cost as well. It’s super insulated in the walls and ceiling, has both an electric heater and a multi fuel stove, so generally it’s quick to heat up and stays warm for the times we use it. Thanks for watching and your question..Regards
Good job but barrow mix would have saved a lot of work mixing
Hi Paul - I agree, but in my case the summerhouse is at the top of a steep garden with a flight of steps from the roadside so wasn’t keen on the practicalities of barrowing concrete uphill. Deffo the best option if you have good access from the roadside. Cheers, Thanks for watching 👍
That concrete is way too dry I do 0.5:12 I.e 6 shovels of ballast, 1/2 bag of cement, 6 shovels of ballast and water
Each to their own Shay - the concrete is holding up well for me. Thanks for watching 👍
@@solway17carlisle good stuff mate, great video by the way.