Hi Andrew. I’m midway through building mine (DIY novice ) and stumbled across your channel. Great work. One question - I noticed that whilst your cripples above the windows remain on 400 centres, they do not stay on 400 centres under the window sill. From what I’ve read/seen on framing tutorials shouldn’t the cripples at bottom stay on 400 centres too? Or does it not really matter?
Hi Chris- you are right about being consistent with the 400 spacing. In my case I had a large opening for the patio doors and the 400 spacing beneath the window fell awkwardly, from recollection very close to the door uprights so I took a pragmatic route and just put the timbers midway across the window span. I guess if there was going to be a lot of weight bearing through from above I would have been more consistent. I hope I haven’t made a critical error! But you’re right to point it out to a fellow DIYer. Cheers
A great and helpful series of videos. I am think of doing exactly the same only want to have a higher wall on the concrete foundation , like a drawf wall. I was wondering how deep and wide your concrete foundation was and were you not concerned about frost. I have been reading that all concrete foundations must be below frost line ..some several hundred mm. Yours is a lot higher yes ?
Hi Paul - I guess I could have made my foundation deeper. As it is, it is a spades width to accommodate a single line of bricks and variable in depth, say 6” approximately. I live at near sea level in northern England and frost happens but isn’t significant here. I hope with the 2 courses of brickwork and relatively lightweight structure above al will be ok...However, if you are using more masonary you ought to make the foundation stronger. If frost is an issue, consider deeper footings. You could also put some rebar in for a stronger base. Have a look at the building codes and regulations for your area and take it from there. In my case I dug out what I could with the energy I had at the time so possibly could/should have done a bit more...I’m hoping the ‘load’ is spread evenly enough to hold up in the long run. Hope that helps...
Well done mate for using screws and nails. Screws for a tight non squeaking fit and nails for more sheer strength! Exactly what I intend to do on my imminent garden room
Hi Anthony - I think I picked the idea up somewhere. Screws effectively pull the joint together and nails give strength as they are less prone to snapping. Under load, screws can snap, whilst nails have a higher tensile strength. Thanks for watching, Cheers👍
Hi Andrew. Thank you so much! It an excellent guide as I will start building mine in a month and my knowledge is very basic. Please whats the name of the wood you are using?
Hi Alex - for the walls I am using 47x100 C24 tantalised timber. This came in 4.8 metre lengths. For the roof I am using 47x150mm tantalised C24 timber. Then the walls are ‘sheathed’ in 2440x1220 OSB, 11mm thick. On the roof I used tongue and groove OSB, 18mm size 2440x590mm. I hope this helps. I have a note pad where I write things down as I research them. This has been useful as I went through different stages of the build process. Best wishes to you and your build
Various ways of doing this. I used longish fixings which go straight into the brickwork below, having drilled a pilot hole through the timber and into the brick first. You can also use real bolts but they can cause the concrete to crack as they work by expansion. Another option is to insert threaded rod into your wet concrete mix as it is poured then put the timber on top and bolt down. So have a look at ‘concrete screw anchor’ of an appropriate length - I used about 8-10 around the perimeter
Hi Andrew. I’m grateful for all your videos, which have so far been a great help in building my own. I’m pretty much ready for the Tyvek and EPDM now, but would appreciate some clarification on one detail of your build. Where the OSB-clad sides meet the sloping roof, you’ve put some little blocks under the fascia-support noggins, but because of the slope there are still spaces/voids between them which aren’t covered by the OSB and, presumably, you’ve just wrapped the Tyvek over the voids. Is that right, or have I missed something? Maybe you filled them off-camera? Thanks for your help!
Hi Jeremy - if I’m understanding correctly, I just wrapped the Tyvek over the sterling board walls. The gaps along the wall/ceiling join were filled with off cuts of timber. These gave a solid base on the inside to secure the plasterboard at the top of the wall. This was particularly important at the front of the building where the gap between wall and sloping ceiling was greatest. On the outside, once you fit your cladding and soffit any voids will be enclosed. I hope that helps - let me know if not and I’ll have another think. Best wishes with your build….
Looks good, I am just starting my own build and series. How wide is your room? I am deciding whether to build my back wall in section rather than one piece
Hi - the internal dimensions are 3700 x 2750mm - this is based on my summer house being approx 4.0m x 3.0m. I built all my walls (even the 4.0m back one) in single sections as the timber allowed this, less margin for alignment error and fewer connections/fixings. I'm sitting in my Summer house now - it's used a lot by the whole family and probably the most useful thing I've ever done. All the best with your build, it'll be worth the effort...
Hello Andrew, My project involves a dwarf wall, but i hope to follow your methods after it is constructed. Please can you tell me if the 11mm OSB youve used should be flush with (in your case the front face of your commons/engineering bricks) front of my dwarf wall? I would be covering with cedar in a similar fashion to you. Thank you again for the excellent videos.
Hi David - I made my frames slightly longer than my dwarf walls and the osb extended about 4 or So cms to lap over the brickwork. When I had all 4 walls in place there was ‘fiddle’ room to square the building up before fixing it in place. I hope that covers your query? If not please let me know and I’ll have another go! All the best...
@@solway17carlisle Hi Andrew, thank you for your response. I will have to butt my osb up to the face of the (stone in my case) dwarf wall, this will then let the feathered T&G slightly overlap the top course of stone. Im only building because loads of stone left over after house extension a few years back. Therefore i will probably have an overhang on the timber internally (especially after plasterboard/skim etc) of a couple of cms. I wanted to have a single skin dwarf wall of around 4 courses. No insulation on the stone but kingspan similar to you in the wall cavity.i want to build a regular pentagon to make it more complicated!
Hi David - sound like good idea to use up building materials you already have, particularly stone. The structure you describe will be very impressive when built. We’re getting some good weather now so hopefully you’ll be able to crack on with it. All the best...
Hi Andrew, what is the height & height difference of your front and rear walls, and how did you work out the fall for the flat roof? Is your garden room 2.5m high to the top of the front? Many thanks
Hi David - yes, everything is worked out from the height at the front which is 2.5m above ground level. Remember that the plastic Edge trim extends 20-30mm above the EPDM roof covering. From what I understand the gradient is 25mm height drop per 1000mm run. So my 3m wide building has a front to back height drop of 75mm minimum. See ‘Oakwood Garden Rooms’ for more content. Hope your build goes well. Regards
Hi, great videos, very informative and helpful to others looking to do the same. Can I just ask, when you cut the joists for the overhang front and rear, do you cut them plumb or at 90 degrees to the timber? Thanks again.
Good question - I remember thinking about this at the time. In the end I just cut them 90 degrees ie using a set square on the timber, as the slope of the roof is minimal. Hope that makes sense..
Hello there sir, I could not help but notice there is what appears to be a gasket between your bottom plate and the concrete foundation? Does it make it airtight and waterproof? what product did you use, please? I am about to erect my walls and I have realised that there are some slight imperfections in my concrete that could allow water to ingress.
Hi - I used plastic damp proof membrane under the concrete and then lapped this over my brick perimeter. The ‘gasket’ you refer to is a roll of plastic damp- proof. This is what the timber frame sits on. It stops water creeping up into your walls. This is similar to what I used: www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-damp-proof-course-1968ga-black-30m-x-100mm/42073?tc=QT7&ds_kid=92700058024392856&ds_rl=1249407&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvMUO6anpUUwj4Kp873HsdcBjV0op10CNFjTV28jBgpZtl7b1_YjqmUaAr3iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Great video we were glad not to have been helping when you realised you tapered your timber after the bolts went in haha 😂. Glad you were able to overcome it, it’s looking brilliant. Hoping for some better weather for you.
Hi Jason - so far I’ve been able to ‘fix’ any mistakes, luckily! I’m hoping to finish the roof today as the weather is clear and warm. All the best, thanks for watching 👍
Hi - it’s getting there, just waiting for a weather window to get the roof on. Fingers crossed maybe later this week. Saw your recent trip to Bewcastle and was so pleased you had some clear skies for those awesome views over the forest and fells - magnificent All the best - Cheers
Hi - I used Ironmongery direct, but you could also source from a builders suppliers locally. 949251 Simpson Strong Tie Joist Hanger, adj ht strap, standard leg 47mm width. You will need to check the width of your timbers. Thanks for watching, hope this helps
Hi Andrew, and all ; ). Please can I get some help or a link on where to find information for cutting the wood for the door and windows. How do you know the sizes, are they standard? Sorry I am new on this and knowing where to cut the wood is confusing. From where are you buying your door and windows? Thanks all!
Hi Alex - I looked online and got ideas of dimensions from there and then made my apertures accordingly, leaving 10mm space to fit the windows and doors. The other option is to identify a set of windows and doors you need, then ensure you create the apertures to suit. You could have a look at ebay or fb marketplace for upvc windows and patio doors. In my case, I made some basic windows and have asked a local joiner to make the patio doors - we agreed the aperture when discussing my requirements. Hope that helps? Cheers for now
Hi Alex - I would suggest leaving 10mm on each side and at the top. I found that my door opening was a little bit out of true so the extra space still gave me room to slide in the ‘square’ frame ok. Once in you can use wood or plastic packets or shims then screw the frame in place. Any gaps can be filled with expanding foam. Once set, a liberal covering with silicone, then a cover strip to finish. Hope that helps, let me know if you need any other thoughts...ps also look up ‘William Griffin’ on YT who does this for a living. Cheers
Hi Andrew. I’m midway through building mine (DIY novice ) and stumbled across your channel. Great work. One question - I noticed that whilst your cripples above the windows remain on 400 centres, they do not stay on 400 centres under the window sill. From what I’ve read/seen on framing tutorials shouldn’t the cripples at bottom stay on 400 centres too? Or does it not really matter?
Hi Chris- you are right about being consistent with the 400 spacing. In my case I had a large opening for the patio doors and the 400 spacing beneath the window fell awkwardly, from recollection very close to the door uprights so I took a pragmatic route and just put the timbers midway across the window span. I guess if there was going to be a lot of weight bearing through from above I would have been more consistent. I hope I haven’t made a critical error! But you’re right to point it out to a fellow DIYer. Cheers
A great and helpful series of videos. I am think of doing exactly the same only want to have a higher wall on the concrete foundation , like a drawf wall. I was wondering how deep and wide your concrete foundation was and were you not concerned about frost. I have been reading that all concrete foundations must be below frost line ..some several hundred mm. Yours is a lot higher yes ?
Hi Paul - I guess I could have made my foundation deeper. As it is, it is a spades width to accommodate a single line of bricks and variable in depth, say 6” approximately. I live at near sea level in northern England and frost happens but isn’t significant here. I hope with the 2 courses of brickwork and relatively lightweight structure above al will be ok...However, if you are using more masonary you ought to make the foundation stronger. If frost is an issue, consider deeper footings. You could also put some rebar in for a stronger base. Have a look at the building codes and regulations for your area and take it from there. In my case I dug out what I could with the energy I had at the time so possibly could/should have done a bit more...I’m hoping the ‘load’ is spread evenly enough to hold up in the long run. Hope that helps...
Well done mate for using screws and nails. Screws for a tight non squeaking fit and nails for more sheer strength! Exactly what I intend to do on my imminent garden room
That’s also what I understand. Good luck with your build - Cheers
Never thought of using a combination of nails and screws, can you explain why, think that's good idea thanks for the share
Hi Anthony - I think I picked the idea up somewhere. Screws effectively pull the joint together and nails give strength as they are less prone to snapping. Under load, screws can snap, whilst nails have a higher tensile strength. Thanks for watching, Cheers👍
@@solway17carlisle thanks for the reply, advice and information think I will incorporate on mine, much appreciated
Hi Andrew. Thank you so much! It an excellent guide as I will start building mine in a month and my knowledge is very basic. Please whats the name of the wood you are using?
Hi Alex - for the walls I am using 47x100 C24 tantalised timber. This came in 4.8 metre lengths. For the roof I am using 47x150mm tantalised C24 timber. Then the walls are ‘sheathed’ in 2440x1220 OSB, 11mm thick. On the roof I used tongue and groove OSB, 18mm size 2440x590mm. I hope this helps. I have a note pad where I write things down as I research them. This has been useful as I went through different stages of the build process. Best wishes to you and your build
@@solway17carlisle thank you!
@@solway17carlisle Its Tanalised timber Andrew not Tantalised, although it may be difficult to get hold of. :) Great work by the way.
Ha ha - predictive text for you! Cheers 👍
Hello do you remember how much money the materials cost for this ?
I think I did all this for between £6-£7K Regards..
How do you secure the walls to the concrete base?
Various ways of doing this. I used longish fixings which go straight into the brickwork below, having drilled a pilot hole through the timber and into the brick first. You can also use real bolts but they can cause the concrete to crack as they work by expansion. Another option is to insert threaded rod into your wet concrete mix as it is poured then put the timber on top and bolt down. So have a look at ‘concrete screw anchor’ of an appropriate length - I used about 8-10 around the perimeter
Hi Andrew. I’m grateful for all your videos, which have so far been a great help in building my own. I’m pretty much ready for the Tyvek and EPDM now, but would appreciate some clarification on one detail of your build. Where the OSB-clad sides meet the sloping roof, you’ve put some little blocks under the fascia-support noggins, but because of the slope there are still spaces/voids between them which aren’t covered by the OSB and, presumably, you’ve just wrapped the Tyvek over the voids. Is that right, or have I missed something? Maybe you filled them off-camera? Thanks for your help!
Hi Jeremy - if I’m understanding correctly, I just wrapped the Tyvek over the sterling board walls. The gaps along the wall/ceiling join were filled with off cuts of timber. These gave a solid base on the inside to secure the plasterboard at the top of the wall. This was particularly important at the front of the building where the gap between wall and sloping ceiling was greatest. On the outside, once you fit your cladding and soffit any voids will be enclosed. I hope that helps - let me know if not and I’ll have another think. Best wishes with your build….
Thanks for sharing, huge respect to you for doing this on your own! Can I ask what size bolts you used for attaching frame to brickwork?
Hi - Thanks for the comment...I used M8, 100mm Lightning Masonry bolts x 10 to secure the frame opnto the brickwork
Looks good, I am just starting my own build and series. How wide is your room? I am deciding whether to build my back wall in section rather than one piece
Hi - the internal dimensions are 3700 x 2750mm - this is based on my summer house being approx 4.0m x 3.0m. I built all my walls (even the 4.0m back one) in single sections as the timber allowed this, less margin for alignment error and fewer connections/fixings. I'm sitting in my Summer house now - it's used a lot by the whole family and probably the most useful thing I've ever done. All the best with your build, it'll be worth the effort...
@@solway17carlisle Thanks for the reply, funny you are sitting in it right now! Very encouraging, I will see if I can manage a single wall! Thanks!
Hello Andrew, My project involves a dwarf wall, but i hope to follow your methods after it is constructed. Please can you tell me if the 11mm OSB youve used should be flush with (in your case the front face of your commons/engineering bricks) front of my dwarf wall? I would be covering with cedar in a similar fashion to you. Thank you again for the excellent videos.
Hi David - I made my frames slightly longer than my dwarf walls and the osb extended about 4 or So cms to lap over the brickwork. When I had all 4 walls in place there was ‘fiddle’ room to square the building up before fixing it in place. I hope that covers your query? If not please let me know and I’ll have another go! All the best...
@@solway17carlisle Hi Andrew, thank you for your response. I will have to butt my osb up to the face of the (stone in my case) dwarf wall, this will then let the feathered T&G slightly overlap the top course of stone. Im only building because loads of stone left over after house extension a few years back. Therefore i will probably have an overhang on the timber internally (especially after plasterboard/skim etc) of a couple of cms. I wanted to have a single skin dwarf wall of around 4 courses. No insulation on the stone but kingspan similar to you in the wall cavity.i want to build a regular pentagon to make it more complicated!
Hi David - sound like good idea to use up building materials you already have, particularly stone. The structure you describe will be very impressive when built. We’re getting some good weather now so hopefully you’ll be able to crack on with it. All the best...
Hi Andrew, what is the height & height difference of your front and rear walls, and how did you work out the fall for the flat roof? Is your garden room 2.5m high to the top of the front? Many thanks
Hi David - yes, everything is worked out from the height at the front which is 2.5m above ground level. Remember that the plastic Edge trim extends 20-30mm above the EPDM roof covering. From what I understand the gradient is 25mm height drop per 1000mm run. So my 3m wide building has a front to back height drop of 75mm minimum. See ‘Oakwood Garden Rooms’ for more content. Hope your build goes well. Regards
@@solway17carlisle thanks for the info 👍🏻
Hi, great videos, very informative and helpful to others looking to do the same. Can I just ask, when you cut the joists for the overhang front and rear, do you cut them plumb or at 90 degrees to the timber? Thanks again.
Good question - I remember thinking about this at the time. In the end I just cut them 90 degrees ie using a set square on the timber, as the slope of the roof is minimal. Hope that makes sense..
@@solway17carlisle
Thanks for the reply. Nice to know this as nobody seems to mention this small detail.
Hello there sir, I could not help but notice there is what appears to be a gasket between your bottom plate and the concrete foundation? Does it make it airtight and waterproof? what product did you use, please? I am about to erect my walls and I have realised that there are some slight imperfections in my concrete that could allow water to ingress.
Hi - I used plastic damp proof membrane under the concrete and then lapped this over my brick perimeter. The ‘gasket’ you refer to is a roll of plastic damp- proof. This is what the timber frame sits on. It stops water creeping up into your walls. This is similar to what I used: www.screwfix.com/p/capital-valley-plastics-ltd-damp-proof-course-1968ga-black-30m-x-100mm/42073?tc=QT7&ds_kid=92700058024392856&ds_rl=1249407&ds_rl=1241687&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1245250&gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvMUO6anpUUwj4Kp873HsdcBjV0op10CNFjTV28jBgpZtl7b1_YjqmUaAr3iEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
If you have bolted the frame through to the bricks does this not break the damp proof membrane and allow damp up through to the underside of the frame
Great video we were glad not to have been helping when you realised you tapered your timber after the bolts went in haha 😂. Glad you were able to overcome it, it’s looking brilliant. Hoping for some better weather for you.
Hi Jason - so far I’ve been able to ‘fix’ any mistakes, luckily! I’m hoping to finish the roof today as the weather is clear and warm. All the best, thanks for watching 👍
Had your work cut out in this one , but all looking good ready for the roof . It looks a decent size and will make a great space for you.
Hi - it’s getting there, just waiting for a weather window to get the roof on. Fingers crossed maybe later this week. Saw your recent trip to Bewcastle and was so pleased you had some clear skies for those awesome views over the forest and fells - magnificent All the best - Cheers
😊👍
Thanks for watching 👍
Brilliant job Andrew, are you taking orders? 😉
Thanks Dawne - yes, taking orders, form an orderly queue 😉
Great job Andrew - can you tell me what size are the joist hangers and where you purchased them from please - I have just started the walls of mine !
Hi - I used Ironmongery direct, but you could also source from a builders suppliers locally. 949251 Simpson Strong Tie Joist Hanger, adj ht strap, standard leg 47mm width. You will need to check the width of your timbers. Thanks for watching, hope this helps
Solway17 Carlisle - many thanks ordered and on way, keep up the great work on the channel
Hi Andrew, and all ; ). Please can I get some help or a link on where to find information for cutting the wood for the door and windows. How do you know the sizes, are they standard? Sorry I am new on this and knowing where to cut the wood is confusing. From where are you buying your door and windows? Thanks all!
Hi Alex - I looked online and got ideas of dimensions from there and then made my apertures accordingly, leaving 10mm space to fit the windows and doors. The other option is to identify a set of windows and doors you need, then ensure you create the apertures to suit. You could have a look at ebay or fb marketplace for upvc windows and patio doors. In my case, I made some basic windows and have asked a local joiner to make the patio doors - we agreed the aperture when discussing my requirements. Hope that helps? Cheers for now
@@solway17carlisle yes it did. Thank you 😊
@@solway17carlisle sorry I would like to clarify a doubt, this 10mm clearance is 5mm on each side? Thanks
Hi Alex - I would suggest leaving 10mm on each side and at the top. I found that my door opening was a little bit out of true so the extra space still gave me room to slide in the ‘square’ frame ok. Once in you can use wood or plastic packets or shims then screw the frame in place. Any gaps can be filled with expanding foam. Once set, a liberal covering with silicone, then a cover strip to finish. Hope that helps, let me know if you need any other thoughts...ps also look up ‘William Griffin’ on YT who does this for a living. Cheers
@@solway17carlisle thank you so much for taking the time to answer.
Well done great job
Many Thanks - I’m still working on it..👍