In Arkansas ,,, Have solid stand of WRye and Wheat ,,, and have had lots of rain and cold temps( daytime less than 50 ) and just now have been able to spray gly. , and WR and Wheat 20-24 inches tall ,,, trying to terminate , then plant Buckwheat in 2-4 wks after another Gly ,,, hopefully heavy thatch won’t interfere too much ! ???
Those earthway spreaders are worth it. 👌 I'm usually the designated seed spreader at the farm. I'll tell ya whut, you don't want to fight a janky spreader all day.
@Whitetail Habitat Solutions picked one up a couple years ago bc I was tired of fighting the old ones we had at farm. Landowner just picked up 5 more new in box at an auction for next to nothing. Helluva score lol
Only issue I’ve had is after spreading 19-19-19 the internal gears in the crank go to crap. I’m on my 3rd earthway spreader in 4 years. Great for seed but not impressed with the durability for spreading hundreds of lbs of fertilizer.
Wanting to try this out this season any recommendations on best glyphosate to use? I’m going to try out an acre first with the back pack sprayer. Would love some feedback thanks!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 awesome I appreciate it thank you much! Had some confusion cause at first you mention 2 quarts per acer of glyphosate, then you reference needing around 20-30 gallons for a back pack sprayer. Just want to make sure I get the right amount with the 2 4D mix, Love the content by the way always very helpful
I rototilled 3 acres after i cut out some trees to bring in sunlight. I planted radishes and rye grass. Didn't use chemicals and barely had any weeds. worked great.
It's an OK combo...but they need to be about 4 to 5 weeks apart. Also, poor soil equals fewer weeds. You will have weeds whether it's this spring or Fall...likely they are growing already 😉 That's a guarantee...
i dislike chemicals. But i have come to terms with the fact that i don't have all the fancy gear. So i need weed killer to do a large amount of work for me. Every method has pros and cons!! Always enjoy and appreciate your teachings WHS!!
There is a herbicide free method wildlife biologist Dr Grant in Missouri talks a lot about where he seeds into existing plot stand and roller crimper or with a board and your foot if no equipment to break stalks to terminate existing stand down onto seeds and has amazing results. Calls it the buffalo system or release process and builds 1/4 inch topsoil a year stacking up layers of vegetation no till like nature builds soil up with large herbivores trampling it down and leaving their droppings as they feed. Basically it’s to simulate how nature works
I need some help ! How does one rebuild his property after storm damage ? I'm from Winona Mississippi and my 90 acre property just got absolutely destroyed by the recent tornadoes that moved through . I had 65 acres and 25 acres 7 year old of cutover. 75 to 80% of my timber either uprooted or snapped off . The cut over not so bad other than some tall cedars in a few tall mature oaks that were left a couple of bottoms. this place will never be the same. 80 90 year old Red oak White oak pine and a few other species just wiped out!! I feel like giving up. So much time and money put into this place to try grow a 160 to 180 inch buck for nothing. It's devastating to say the least.
Hi Jim...the key is opening up lanes...a Fecon or forestry mulcher machine. Create a never ending trail systems through the areas deer can not move thru. There will of course be chainsaw work. The sooner you get it finished the sooner the deer will immediately use the land and relate to it. The oaks don't mean too much for the whitetails...the heavy regen and brush does! BUT, they have to be able to walk thru it. Make sure you have quality food plots and you can still have the perfect combination... Don't give up!! Just open up the land. 6 to 8' wide paths in a maze and pocket effect. It's ok to leave piles of debris between...just work thru the lightest areas first (smallest diameter areas)
Excellent work Jeff thank for this video it explains a lot of great information because I can afford big gear to do a good plots. Can’t get enough of all your videos 👍👍👍👍
I wish we didn't have to use herbicides...but there is a reason farmers use them and with how small scale we are, food plotters can't afford to have any weeds in their plots!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 So very true. If I can get a small tractor in, I would plow....however. my situation is walk in, beat the brush down....and lots of trees. I have deer on my property. Just don't know how many and quality yet. This is my 1st property. Dedicated to hunting, preservation of wildlife and relaxation.
Gonna follow your recommendations and try my first food plot this year. Only have about 1/2 acre to work with but excited to try it. Thanks for all the great content.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 does your 2014 book cover all the no till strategies you still use for the most part? I was thinking of getting it but I'm guessing in 10 years you have probably changed your practices a bit?
Controlled burns are also an option but some weeds survive from their roots. Ph level will be affected and I am unsure of tolerance of each seed species.
They allow weeds to EXPLODE more than ever. My ATV was 3400 used and still kicking...but can accomplish so many more tasks on the farm than the tractor. We own 2 small tractors...the last was close to 30k, but wouldn't ever till with either 😊 Great for mowing lawns tho and our switchgrass, brush-hogging trails and using a cone shaped broadcaster.
been watching some of your videos targeted towards this (Budget friendly). I have the ATV, Sprayer, Spreader already. I do herbicide treatments on lawns, so spraying is no issue at all. I just picked up a Ground Hog Max cultivator attachment for the ATV to till if needed, and have a DIY drag as well. I cant afford a Packer Max, but found an ATV Pull behind 36"Lawn roller that can be filled with water. I estimate it would be around 350 to 400 pounds when full of water. He wants 75 bucks for it. Would that suffice in the absence of the Packer Max? Its not "grooved" like the Packer max and the other Cultipackers Ive seen. Im in West Texas and really want to start trying to get a few 1/2 to 1 acre food plots established to hunt over. Id also like to make a few of them dual purpose, so they not only feed deer, but will attract dove, turkey and quail. IM open to any suggestions you may have. Thanks for all the info you put out! Finally close to trying to succeed with this. Ive failed a few times with "thro and Gro" and that dont work, but yeah we already knew that right....LOL
Love the videos and information! Do you have any videos or methods for transforming an area that was cleared with a forestry mulched? Lots of wood debris and wood chips on the ground. I know time is the biggest thing to break it all down but didn’t know if you have any tips for expedite the process! Keep up the good work and videos.
Hi Caleb! It is critical to remove the chips of wood and debris...they can take many years to break down and zap critical nutrients that take lots of dollars to replace. We rely on good operators to clear plots for us and what they will do is to clear with a loader or dozer rake when finished mulching. Or just use a dozer to begin with and back blade to keep topsoil while removing woody debris. A rake on a skid loader works very well...but getting that woody debris off the field immediately is critical.
Thanks! I have a rake for the tractor and will be getting on it. I’m playing the long game and was planning on it not be a hunt-able plot for a few years.
Jeff, I watch your videos incessantly! I love the information. I think I heard you say not to mix brassicas with greens like clover or rye grain. My plan was to add brassica blend to an existing clover and chicory plot in late July and then layer rye after that every 3-4 weeks. Is this ok? Thanks so much! Jeff pepin.
Hi Jeff! Unfortunately the established clover plot will choke out and kill the germinating brassica seed, leaving with just a slight germination rate or none at all. It will do the same with the rye later unless the deer have eaten to the dirt and there is a solid amount of soil exposure...
Great information as always. I've done all this, the wrong way a few times before I learned. Buying a lime drop spreader for this season. Great stuff Jeff, thanks.
I did about an acre last year. Loaded on TON’s of manure but did not spray after the first buckwheat crop things looked SO GOOD. Seeded and knocked buckwheat over and left things to do their thing….well that was end of July and the weeds out paced every thing had I sprayed (which I will be doing this year bought a sprayer) or done a second buckwheat planting before my final planting I figure things would have been better. We landed 60% success rate this year it will be better I’m betting
They die out with the standard herbicide application over the year. The stumps themselves tho, if large need to be taken out with a dozer and if small (4-5" diameter or less) we cut low with a chainsaw and leave them.
I assume all potential food plot areas require soil analysis and lime for acidic soils prior to planting. Also, is using buckwheat (followed by glyphosate and crushing) more economical and effective as a soil nutrient enhancement than fertilizer these days?
Love your videos Jeff. So much great info. I have a bag of the fall forage blend. I live in Southern michigan. I think I heard you say plant that later than August 1st. Just want to time everything as correctly as possible.. thank you
The buckwheat breaks down immediately because it is fine organic matter. For example within 10 days you will have roughly 70 to 80% soil exposure. With heavy weed base, Sorghum, annual rye, etc ... Those weeds or plants when tall can take months to breakdown. Huge differences tho. Also you are seeding into buckwheat and want that covering with large seeds...something you can't do with a dead weed base.
I don't have issues with weeds. My issue is PH level as my plots are made in the timber. I've hauled tons upon tons of lime in and spread by hand the last three years, but will try the liquid this year.
Hi RS! I would try Plot Start...but what you will find is that the more your soil improves the more weeds you will have. A rule to live by is weeds will always grow better than your intended food plot forage.
Bottom line is, your know your stuff bro. But its time for a new catch phrase. And thats is the bottom line. Seriously you've helped me tremendously. My wife always asked if I'm watching that guy again on youtube.
Solid info seeding 20 acres this year. Virgin seeder alert! Trying clover alfalfa with a nurse crop of fall rye. Following your advice to plant in the late summer after 3 sprayings.
Thanks for coming through as always jeff! I left the budget friendly comment on a video weeks ago. This helped a ton!
You are very welcome...thanks a lot for the reminder 😊
In Arkansas ,,, Have solid stand of WRye and Wheat ,,, and have had lots of rain and cold temps( daytime less than 50 ) and just now have been able to spray gly. , and WR and Wheat 20-24 inches tall ,,, trying to terminate , then plant Buckwheat in 2-4 wks after another Gly ,,, hopefully heavy thatch won’t interfere too much ! ???
Those earthway spreaders are worth it. 👌 I'm usually the designated seed spreader at the farm. I'll tell ya whut, you don't want to fight a janky spreader all day.
Oh man they are smooth! I have to be speedy and I like those bag spreaders the best by far!
@Whitetail Habitat Solutions picked one up a couple years ago bc I was tired of fighting the old ones we had at farm. Landowner just picked up 5 more new in box at an auction for next to nothing. Helluva score lol
Only issue I’ve had is after spreading 19-19-19 the internal gears in the crank go to crap. I’m on my 3rd earthway spreader in 4 years. Great for seed but not impressed with the durability for spreading hundreds of lbs of fertilizer.
@@craigkowalczyk3516 I'll give u that. Lime and fert can be harder on equipment for sure.
Bought one last year love my earthway spreader
Great video. What's a good atv sprayer
Thanks Jeff!
You are very welcome Isaac!
Wanting to try this out this season any recommendations on best glyphosate to use? I’m going to try out an acre first with the back pack sprayer. Would love some feedback thanks!
Any generic Glyphosate will do 😊 The cheapest? Just make sure that it is 41% concentrate...which it likely will be.
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 awesome I appreciate it thank you much! Had some confusion cause at first you mention 2 quarts per acer of glyphosate, then you reference needing around 20-30 gallons for a back pack sprayer. Just want to make sure I get the right amount with the 2 4D mix, Love the content by the way always very helpful
Nice
I hope it helps Jarrod!
Absolutely all ur info does
Need a Tick Talk Reminder! Tis the season
Thanks Jeff, southern Indiana it’s almost time
Oh man I bet!! Sounds really nice ..
I rototilled 3 acres after i cut out some trees to bring in sunlight.
I planted radishes and rye grass. Didn't use chemicals and barely had any weeds.
worked great.
Why would you plant rye grass?
@@aaronc1942 it was cheap per pound next to the radish seed. I think it was winter rye.
Good combo
It's an OK combo...but they need to be about 4 to 5 weeks apart. Also, poor soil equals fewer weeds. You will have weeds whether it's this spring or Fall...likely they are growing already 😉 That's a guarantee...
@@Joeman57 I only ask because rye grass isn't the same as rye grain (i.e., winter rye/cereal rye). Rye grass is basically useless in a food plot.
@@aaronc1942 I believe it was winter rye. Worked great for me had a nice buck in it everyday in the late summer and fall.
Simazine says it will be in soil for 3 to 6 months on the label. Is that ever an issue when trying to plant switch grass?
Never...and that is so true. It's a very, very good thing. Simazine doesn't hurt switch in any way...
Great video and good timeing, I think this relates to a lot of people!
Thank you Connor...really appreciate the feedback!
Took all my stands down yesterday and got all my switch frost seeded! Now let’s get ready for turkey season!
Nice Drew ..sounds like you are really on top of things!
Thank You again Sir Jeff! God Bless you and yours.😊
You are very welcome Bob...thank YOU!
Great info, thanks Jeff
Thanks a lot Elliot!
I found a couple mylar balloons shed hunting this weekend SW WI 😂
Hang a stand!!!!! 😁
i dislike chemicals. But i have come to terms with the fact that i don't have all the fancy gear. So i need weed killer to do a large amount of work for me. Every method has pros and cons!!
Always enjoy and appreciate your teachings WHS!!
Great perspective Adam! I could certainly do without them all...just use what I have to
There is a herbicide free method wildlife biologist Dr Grant in Missouri talks a lot about where he seeds into existing plot stand and roller crimper or with a board and your foot if no equipment to break stalks to terminate existing stand down onto seeds and has amazing results. Calls it the buffalo system or release process and builds 1/4 inch topsoil a year stacking up layers of vegetation no till like nature builds soil up with large herbivores trampling it down and leaving their droppings as they feed. Basically it’s to simulate how nature works
I need some help ! How does one rebuild his property after storm damage ? I'm from Winona Mississippi and my 90 acre property just got absolutely destroyed by the recent tornadoes that moved through . I had 65 acres and 25 acres 7 year old of cutover. 75 to 80% of my timber either uprooted or snapped off . The cut over not so bad other than some tall cedars in a few tall mature oaks that were left a couple of bottoms. this place will never be the same. 80 90 year old Red oak White oak pine and a few other species just wiped out!! I feel like giving up. So much time and money put into this place to try grow a 160 to 180 inch buck for nothing. It's devastating to say the least.
Hi Jim...the key is opening up lanes...a Fecon or forestry mulcher machine. Create a never ending trail systems through the areas deer can not move thru. There will of course be chainsaw work. The sooner you get it finished the sooner the deer will immediately use the land and relate to it. The oaks don't mean too much for the whitetails...the heavy regen and brush does! BUT, they have to be able to walk thru it. Make sure you have quality food plots and you can still have the perfect combination...
Don't give up!! Just open up the land. 6 to 8' wide paths in a maze and pocket effect. It's ok to leave piles of debris between...just work thru the lightest areas first (smallest diameter areas)
Jeff I'm new to the channel but blown away! Appreciate your communication with your commentors too!
Thanks a lot Jim...happy for you to be here! I can't comment on everything but I do try my best 😊
Just a quick question what did you mean by 1 bag a fertilizer for half an acer? what kind? like a 50lb bag? and is that truly enough?
Excellent work Jeff thank for this video it explains a lot of great information because I can afford big gear to do a good plots. Can’t get enough of all your videos 👍👍👍👍
Man that's awesome to hear Ralph...really happy that it hits home for you!!
Still waiting for the 2 feet plus snow to melt ,minus 5 F this morning. Forecast isn't much better.
It's just a massive downer looking at the extended forecast and seeing ONE day in the 50s...
It's been a crazy spring...I would guess 3 to 4 weeks behind last year for us.
Next 2 weeks,one day of 40 and mostly 28 to 30. At least even below freezing,a sunny day will evaporate a lot of snow.
I'm in for the low budget method, and will use herbicides. My property is heavy in trees, and I need to open up a few spots.
I wish we didn't have to use herbicides...but there is a reason farmers use them and with how small scale we are, food plotters can't afford to have any weeds in their plots!
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 So very true. If I can get a small tractor in, I would plow....however. my situation is walk in, beat the brush down....and lots of trees. I have deer on my property. Just don't know how many and quality yet. This is my 1st property. Dedicated to hunting, preservation of wildlife and relaxation.
Gonna follow your recommendations and try my first food plot this year. Only have about 1/2 acre to work with but excited to try it. Thanks for all the great content.
That's great to hear J! Just follow the steps and you will find success...pretty fool proof even if mother nature only 1/2 cooperates
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 does your 2014 book cover all the no till strategies you still use for the most part? I was thinking of getting it but I'm guessing in 10 years you have probably changed your practices a bit?
Can Am quad, drag harrow, weed whacker/ brush cutter, chainsaw, and high quality seed from WHS works for me!
Controlled burns are also an option but some weeds survive from their roots. Ph level will be affected and I am unsure of tolerance of each seed species.
Another thought is if a person can afford an atv with a sprayer, a small tractor with a pto box rototiller is similar price.
They allow weeds to EXPLODE more than ever.
My ATV was 3400 used and still kicking...but can accomplish so many more tasks on the farm than the tractor. We own 2 small tractors...the last was close to 30k, but wouldn't ever till with either 😊 Great for mowing lawns tho and our switchgrass, brush-hogging trails and using a cone shaped broadcaster.
been watching some of your videos targeted towards this (Budget friendly). I have the ATV, Sprayer, Spreader already. I do herbicide treatments on lawns, so spraying is no issue at all. I just picked up a Ground Hog Max cultivator attachment for the ATV to till if needed, and have a DIY drag as well. I cant afford a Packer Max, but found an ATV Pull behind 36"Lawn roller that can be filled with water. I estimate it would be around 350 to 400 pounds when full of water. He wants 75 bucks for it. Would that suffice in the absence of the Packer Max? Its not "grooved" like the Packer max and the other Cultipackers Ive seen. Im in West Texas and really want to start trying to get a few 1/2 to 1 acre food plots established to hunt over. Id also like to make a few of them dual purpose, so they not only feed deer, but will attract dove, turkey and quail. IM open to any suggestions you may have. Thanks for all the info you put out! Finally close to trying to succeed with this. Ive failed a few times with "thro and Gro" and that dont work, but yeah we already knew that right....LOL
Love the videos and information! Do you have any videos or methods for transforming an area that was cleared with a forestry mulched? Lots of wood debris and wood chips on the ground. I know time is the biggest thing to break it all down but didn’t know if you have any tips for expedite the process! Keep up the good work and videos.
Hi Caleb! It is critical to remove the chips of wood and debris...they can take many years to break down and zap critical nutrients that take lots of dollars to replace. We rely on good operators to clear plots for us and what they will do is to clear with a loader or dozer rake when finished mulching. Or just use a dozer to begin with and back blade to keep topsoil while removing woody debris.
A rake on a skid loader works very well...but getting that woody debris off the field immediately is critical.
Thanks! I have a rake for the tractor and will be getting on it. I’m playing the long game and was planning on it not be a hunt-able plot for a few years.
You can do it!
(Cajin Guy On Water Boy movie)
Lol
Jeff, we need a few good cotton T shirts in the store.
That would be a great idea!
Jeff, your videos are a class act. Love all your information, but really, l love your food plot videos.
Thank you so much John that means a lot to me!
Jeff, I watch your videos incessantly! I love the information. I think I heard you say not to mix brassicas with greens like clover or rye grain. My plan was to add brassica blend to an existing clover and chicory plot in late July and then layer rye after that every 3-4 weeks. Is this ok? Thanks so much! Jeff pepin.
Hi Jeff! Unfortunately the established clover plot will choke out and kill the germinating brassica seed, leaving with just a slight germination rate or none at all. It will do the same with the rye later unless the deer have eaten to the dirt and there is a solid amount of soil exposure...
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 my plan was to mow it down as low as possible first, would that help? Or would it be best to terminate it beforehand?
Great info ! Can't wait to start spraying ! 👍🏻☘🦌🦃
Thank you very much!! This weekend (Simazine) for me 😊 Can't wait!
I use 3.5-4 ounces of glyphosate per gallon of water and it kills everything using a backpack sprayer.
That may be a good ratio for a back pack sprayer but not for anything else. Always know your per acre coverage rate...that's really all that matters 👍
Great information as always. I've done all this, the wrong way a few times before I learned. Buying a lime drop spreader for this season. Great stuff Jeff, thanks.
You are very welcome Andy! Man that drop spreader will be really nice!
I did about an acre last year. Loaded on TON’s of manure but did not spray after the first buckwheat crop things looked SO GOOD. Seeded and knocked buckwheat over and left things to do their thing….well that was end of July and the weeds out paced every thing had I sprayed (which I will be doing this year bought a sprayer) or done a second buckwheat planting before my final planting I figure things would have been better. We landed 60% success rate this year it will be better I’m betting
Much better things to come for you this year with weed control for sure!
Love the videos Jeff! When you cut down trees in your plot, what do you do with the stumps? Thanks Jeff!
We use a light amount of tordon on the brush/stumps we don't want to regen. Little bit goes a long way.
They die out with the standard herbicide application over the year.
The stumps themselves tho, if large need to be taken out with a dozer and if small (4-5" diameter or less) we cut low with a chainsaw and leave them.
I just glanced at the thumbnail and thought, "dang ol' Jeff been hard on them leftover christmas cookie". LOL
Haha, big red belly 😁
I assume all potential food plot areas require soil analysis and lime for acidic soils prior to planting. Also, is using buckwheat (followed by glyphosate and crushing) more economical and effective as a soil nutrient enhancement than fertilizer these days?
Hi Rick! Yes for sure...but buckwheat only replaces part of fertility list...you still need to fertilize
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 Thanks, that helps clarify some things.
Love your videos Jeff. So much great info. I have a bag of the fall forage blend. I live in Southern michigan. I think I heard you say plant that later than August 1st. Just want to time everything as correctly as possible.. thank you
Hey Jeff, I was just curious what’s the difference between weed thatch and buckwheat thatch that you use on some plots?
thinking the same thing since i was planning on doing his seeding into buckwheat method this year
The buckwheat breaks down immediately because it is fine organic matter. For example within 10 days you will have roughly 70 to 80% soil exposure. With heavy weed base, Sorghum, annual rye, etc ... Those weeds or plants when tall can take months to breakdown. Huge differences tho. Also you are seeding into buckwheat and want that covering with large seeds...something you can't do with a dead weed base.
The buckwheat has a good moisture content as well. Can almost act like a "greenhouse" for your sprouts.
Awsome answer Boss...I mean Jeff.
Anyway I understood.
I don't have issues with weeds. My issue is PH level as my plots are made in the timber. I've hauled tons upon tons of lime in and spread by hand the last three years, but will try the liquid this year.
Hi RS! I would try Plot Start...but what you will find is that the more your soil improves the more weeds you will have.
A rule to live by is weeds will always grow better than your intended food plot forage.
Whats the ph level? What kind of trees? You ever consider removing all of them?
@@Joeman57 yes! Get rid of the leaves! Right on.
Love your videos but if you're using a 4 wheeler it isn't cheap
It was not...cost me $3400! Beats the backpack sprayer I talked about tho 😊
@Whitetail Habitat Solutions Like I said love your videos, they are full of information.
👍🏻
👍😊
Learned a lot from this, quick question where do you get your chemical?
Hi Gaige! From several sources, including local feed mills and Rudy's feed and seed in Holmen WI
Can a person build horse shaped plots to keep deer movement on their land if it’s all you can do?
Great information! On your corn plot, did you leave the stumps from the trees you cut down?
Hi Greg! Yes we did. Wve done that on about 6 acres of plots in total out here in MN
Does soaking a bigger seed like buckwheat or peas have any effect on germination?
Bottom line is, your know your stuff bro. But its time for a new catch phrase. And thats is the bottom line. Seriously you've helped me tremendously. My wife always asked if I'm watching that guy again on youtube.
😁
ya know jeff, the worst thing about your channel is that it takes so long to type into the search bar🤣.😁
Hahaha 😁 I'm with ya! Hopefully hitting that bell indicator can help you out 😊
@@whitetailhabitatsolutions9751 don't worry im making it a personal goal to watch all of your videos.😀
Food plot? How much money are yall spe ding on 50 Pou ds of meat?
Much less per pound than a few walleye or bass 😁
First
Most likely 😁
Stop poisoning the land.
Solid info seeding 20 acres this year. Virgin seeder alert! Trying clover alfalfa with a nurse crop of fall rye. Following your advice to plant in the late summer after 3 sprayings.