@roberttaylor8261 I hunt in snow country. I have eyebrows on one of my octagon blinds. It probably helps a little, but the wasps really like nesting up under them. So they're good and also not good. But hey, you do you!
I used your window idea. It turned out excellent!!!! Just wanted to say thank you for all the information and posting your video and you saved me a lot of money on Windows!!👍👍👍
Great idea. That’s thinking outside the box! I saw some very small strips of wood that had soft foam strip on one edge that I though about using, but now I’ve changed my mind
Awesome. Good to see similar build design. One thing I will mention is slightly longer rivets with a washer backed seem to help if you have cracking issues.
Fortunately, I didn't have any issues with them cracking from the rivets. It might have been worth mentioning to take time drilling the holes though to avoid any cracking issues.
Another subscriber pointed out that heating the drilled holes a bit with a torch would help with cracking later on. Sounds like a reasonable precaution.
Awesome dude, will be building a blind this spring and those windows seem to be the best/cheapest option I’ve found so far….and I can just adjust the size to my liking
Best thing I have found for keeping wasps (and spiders and other bugs) out of blinds is to hang an insecticide tag (the kind the attach to cows ears) in the blind. They are cheap (about $1 each) and can be bought in most feed stores. An alternative would be to hang a "Shell No Pest Strip" instead that you can buy at Home Depot/Lowes but they cost about $10 each.
To be honest, as I was watching, I didn't like the idea of the gap around the window. Once I saw the garage door trim, I am sold. I am currently building a bow blind and all the pre-made windows are $80+ each. If you put in 6 windows, that adds up. Great video!
Great idea for huntblind windows. Probably follow this design. Regarding plexiglass cracking around hinges... a good solution might be to bevel edges of holes slightly to minimize stress from hinge fasteners & help spread pressure evenly across a broader surface area. Sharp edges fail far sooner than rounded or chamfered edges.
My favorite part besides everything is how easy it is to put j-channel for steel siding up against it and the seal the stripping and the joints with caulk.
Looks great! Question: Does riveting those hinges in the glass require a special trick? Ive cracked some expensive sheets of plexiglass trying that, but it was much thinner than what you’re using.
Thanks! No special trick. I've had a 100% success rate with this method, but this is 1/4" thick sheeting, not 1/8". It's probably safe to say that the closer you get to the edge of your plexiglass with the holes, the more likely it is to crack.
It will seal the window pane but the door stop strip may not be wide enough to cover the entire width of 2x4 and plywood sheeting. You may want to wrap the outer portion of the sheeting and 2x4 with some metal first (fascia metal would work).
@UncleBucks ok I might actually just reframe the window section with different size wood since I don't have my sheeting on yet. What size wood did you use for framing?
@@brandonyoung7760 I used 1-1/2' x 1-1/2" for the framing. If you jump to about 34 minutes in this video, it's pretty well explained. ua-cam.com/video/NMGD9qTmBXA/v-deo.html
Great video! I'm in the process of making the same windows and am shopping around for the acrylic. I'm also from Wisconsin and I'm assuming you got them from Menards? The same sheet now is $72.48!
This is a sweet idea! I would love to see how you actually built your blind...I am currently designing something like it, and would like to see how you did yours.
If you are looking to use it for gun hunting, the dimensions of this window turned horizontally would work great, IMO. If you want it big enough to shoot a compound bow out of, I'd go bigger like I did in my Octagon Box Blind Build videos, more specifically the Part 2 video.
@@TheYeti308insulated sliders are my favorite gun hunting blind windows, but not for vertical bow hunting. I prefer the tall and narrow window for that.
The top and bottom are 10 1/2". I don't remember the sides. Probably 31 1/2". (32 1/2" minus the width of the top and bottom stops, each being about 1/2" thick.)
Table saw. Regular construction blade, lowered down so it barely cuts through. Feed it slow. Leave the protective film on the sheet. This method has worked well for me.
I have a video series that shows every step of building this blind with plans and material list in the description and in the end of Part 2. It's 6x6. ua-cam.com/video/I87eyqTglgM/v-deo.html
I am seeing no effects of weathering so far. That will probably be a non issue. Wiping them with something other than microfiber would likely cause visibility issues in the long run so be careful with that. Yes, they do fog up with an unvented heater. I've got a video on dealing with fogging windows, which will happen with any windows (including insulated glass) if you use a buddy heater. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I like your window design and plan on using it for the 6 windows in the 4'x6' box blind I am currently building. Have you had any thoughts/ideas on anything you would do different now that you have completed your blind? How have the windows held up for you? Thanks!
Sorry it took so long to respond. I missed your comment somehow. Anyway, it was suggested by someone else to heat the drill holes and the saw cut window edges with a small torch to help them prevent from cracking over time. So far mine have been exposed to many nights of freezing weather and I see no cracks. Only other suggestion I have is to maybe go with a higher quality hinge, like ones with nylon or brass bushings. Not sure if you can get them that small though. Also note that if you want it to operate smoothly, it is imperative to get the hinges aligned straight. Good luck!!
Great video series! thanks so much for your time and effort. Can you tell me what u used to cut the windows? I assume it was the table saw.... what blade did you use? thanks
Thanks! I used the regular ripping blade in the table saw. I lowered the blade to cut about 1/8 more than the thickness of the acrylic sheet and took my time feeding it through. I did NOT put the blade on backwards. I drilled the holes for the hinges with the high speed setting on the drill, in a forward direction, but taking care to not push it through. I did not have cracking take place from either method.
The windows cannot swing outward because the rubber strip on the garage door strip prevents that from happening. I haven't sat in the stand during a driving rain to see if there is any leaking, but I see no evidence of that on the inside, at least not yet. The window is very secure when closed & latched. There is no movement or rattling.
Here you go: www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/exterior-doors/garage-doors-openers/garage-door-moulding/royal-reg-building-products-7-16-x-2-pvc-garage-door-stops/4171688/doors-windows-millwork/exterior-doors/garage-doors-openers/garage-door-moulding/royal-reg-building-products-7-16-x-2-pvc-garage-door-stops/4171727/p-1510903717951.htm
I use my table saw with a regular wood blade, turning in the regular direction. I set the blade so it is only sticking up about 3/8" above the table. Keep the protective wrap on the sheet and just go slow with it while feeding it through.
Great video! We installed the same garage seal that you did. When we open the windows the windows stick to the seal and make a lot of noise pulling away as you open the window. Have you experienced this? If so, how did you fix it?
I did at first but it seems to have lost it's "stickiness" now after taking shape and getting wet several times. You could try pushing on the window a bit around the edges before opening it to see if that loosens it first at all. Otherwise, maybe try sanding the inside of the rubber strip lightly with very fine sandpaper, or maybe brush it lightly with vegetable oil.
Sounds like the Acrylic is in high demand due to the virus. Everyone's making shields at their checkout counters. That's crazy for the garage door seal. Should be about $1/foot.
I had considered tinted windows, especially for the back corners, but decided to go all clear instead. I painted the inside flat black and I wear black clothes when archery hunting from it. I also have black curtains made from landscape felt that can go in various locations inside. If you prefer tinted windows, go for it! Will probably have to order that online somewhere though...?
@@UncleBucks I see. Yeah I'll probably try it out in my blind if I ever build it. They used to sell window tint at any auto parts store. It's a roll of tinted material you stick to any window. I appreciate you doing the hard work on how to make the frames. I am looking to make a true octagon at 8 feet across.
What do you do in a year when the acrylic cracks around your rivet holes, and yes it will happen if you didn't hit the holes with a torch before mounting the hinges?
I guess we'll see. The new ones I did two years ago haven't cracked yet. I did some 20 years ago that held up also. I'm not trying to force the drill bit through so maybe that helps. Great idea heating up the holes for good measure though.
@@UncleBucks Hear we are 1yr later and still expensive. Id like to build another blind, but almost cheaper buying one of the fancy ones. thanks for your content.
Studs and plywood are back down significantly, but metal, hardware and acrylic didn't seem to come down at all. Right now it all really depends on whether or not you find enjoyment from the building process.
Don't they all eventually? Same goes for every chair I've ever used. I've got a small bottle of low odor oil for dabbing all hinges and chair components when needed. One could certainly pay up for aluminum, brass or plastic hinges of some kind I suppose. It's tough to keep everything totally silent but there are solutions.
I will most definitely be copying your design when I build a few blinds this summer. Great design and very inexpensive. Thanks for sharing man!
Probably the best shooting house window video on UA-cam
Best window build on all of the web, man, what detail !! Thank you
@@ourcountryacres4862 Thank you! I appreciate your comment!!
If you hunted in Snow Country you would build an eyebrow so Ice an snow didn’t run down edge of window especially if heated!
@roberttaylor8261 I hunt in snow country. I have eyebrows on one of my octagon blinds. It probably helps a little, but the wasps really like nesting up under them. So they're good and also not good. But hey, you do you!
Very good idea for sealing the windows up. I would slope the bottom seal slightly to allow water run off like traditional window sills.
I used your window idea. It turned out excellent!!!! Just wanted to say thank you for all the information and posting your video and you saved me a lot of money on Windows!!👍👍👍
You're welcome! Glad to know it helped you out. Good luck hunting.
This was a very nice way of making a silent opening window!
Thank you!
@@UncleBucks Well deserved! I'll try to copy the setup in the next blind I build here in Norway the coming summer.
@rolfnilsen6385 Hope they work out well for you. Wow! Norway!! Cool!!!
Amazing job on the windows and your video was awesome. Thanks for this.. I'll be using it..
Would love to have a neighbor like you!
Stay safe!
Never thought of the garage door seal. Perfect for what I want in a blind window. Mine will be horizontal for gun hunting though. Great job!
Great idea. That’s thinking outside the box!
I saw some very small strips of wood that had soft foam strip on one edge that I though about using, but now I’ve changed my mind
Thank you, finally found a useful video that will help me build my windows. I've been spending weeks trying to find this
You're welcome! I scratched my head on it for a few years, then one day, it just occurred to me.
i like the windows , great job for keeping it dry , well thought out
Thanks!
Thanks for posting, I’m using your method on an elevated deer blind that I’m building. Great instructions !!
You're welcome & good luck with your project!
Great job, post for horizontal window would be nice to see. Appears well designed and economical
Excellent video. You do a great job explaining step by step and giving tips
thank you this is the best diy window idea i have seen
You're welcome Gary
Great video Brett......very helpful!!! Thanks for making my planning process easier!!!
Thank you Jeff & good luck out there!
Awesome. Good to see similar build design. One thing I will mention is slightly longer rivets with a washer backed seem to help if you have cracking issues.
Fortunately, I didn't have any issues with them cracking from the rivets. It might have been worth mentioning to take time drilling the holes though to avoid any cracking issues.
Another subscriber pointed out that heating the drilled holes a bit with a torch would help with cracking later on. Sounds like a reasonable precaution.
You are the best and so descriptive. Thank you
Thanks Brett! I used your design for my blind and they work great.
You're welcome! Thanks for watching and commenting.
Awesome dude, will be building a blind this spring and those windows seem to be the best/cheapest option I’ve found so far….and I can just adjust the size to my liking
Thanks & good luck with your build. Enjoy the journey!
Thank you for always doing such a great job explaining things! Will be making these windows on my next blind!
Best window for box blind ever..... Thanks
Very nice. Been looking for windows.
Done looking. Like the design and cost. Thanks for sharing.
nice window, might even keep wasps out here in eastern NC, nice john deere also :)
Best thing I have found for keeping wasps (and spiders and other bugs) out of blinds is to hang an insecticide tag (the kind the attach to cows ears) in the blind. They are cheap (about $1 each) and can be bought in most feed stores. An alternative would be to hang a "Shell No Pest Strip" instead that you can buy at Home Depot/Lowes but they cost about $10 each.
This is a great idea il. I’m building a 4x6 blind and this will be what I do for windows.
Great series of videos on these blinds.
To be honest, as I was watching, I didn't like the idea of the gap around the window. Once I saw the garage door trim, I am sold. I am currently building a bow blind and all the pre-made windows are $80+ each. If you put in 6 windows, that adds up. Great video!
Thanks for watching and commenting & good luck with the rest of your bow blind build!
Absolutely Wonderful idea!!! Thanks for sharing!!!
@markadams5285 Thank you Mark for watching and commenting!
Great idea for huntblind windows. Probably follow this design. Regarding plexiglass cracking around hinges... a good solution might be to bevel edges of holes slightly to minimize stress from hinge fasteners & help spread pressure evenly across a broader surface area. Sharp edges fail far sooner than rounded or chamfered edges.
Very good suggestion and an easy preventative measure.
What would be the best way to bevel hole edges?
@@catfishandwhitetails countersink
I like that all my deer stand was build almost the same as your too
My favorite part besides everything is how easy it is to put j-channel for steel siding up against it and the seal the stripping and the joints with caulk.
great job on the windows.
Fantastic, exactly the video I was looking for. Will Subscribe.
Bro....incredible!
Thanks!!
Damn nice idea and work!
Thanks Mike!!
Looks great! Question: Does riveting those hinges in the glass require a special trick? Ive cracked some expensive sheets of plexiglass trying that, but it was much thinner than what you’re using.
Thanks! No special trick. I've had a 100% success rate with this method, but this is 1/4" thick sheeting, not 1/8". It's probably safe to say that the closer you get to the edge of your plexiglass with the holes, the more likely it is to crack.
Good job. Looks great
Awesome video man I love it 👍
Wow this helped me sooo much, thank you!!!!
Great idea!
Well done - nice and simple. Thanks!
Good idea. But do those windows fog/frost up like any non-insulated glass windows?
Thanks. They sure do, but I also hunt out of a box blind with insulated glass windows, which fog and frost up just as much.
Will the seal work fine if my window is framed in with 2x4?
It will seal the window pane but the door stop strip may not be wide enough to cover the entire width of 2x4 and plywood sheeting. You may want to wrap the outer portion of the sheeting and 2x4 with some metal first (fascia metal would work).
@UncleBucks ok I might actually just reframe the window section with different size wood since I don't have my sheeting on yet. What size wood did you use for framing?
@@brandonyoung7760 I used 1-1/2' x 1-1/2" for the framing. If you jump to about 34 minutes in this video, it's pretty well explained. ua-cam.com/video/NMGD9qTmBXA/v-deo.html
Actually it was 1-1/2" x 1-1/4" in the video but 1-1/2" x 1-1/2" will work for you unless you are building the very same octagon as in my video.
@@UncleBucks I'm building a 4'x8' rectangle blind
Great video! I'm in the process of making the same windows and am shopping around for the acrylic. I'm also from Wisconsin and I'm assuming you got them from Menards? The same sheet now is $72.48!
Thanks! Yes, that's where I got them. Yikes... double the price now.
This is a sweet idea! I would love to see how you actually built your blind...I am currently designing something like it, and would like to see how you did yours.
Just saw the link in the comments! Awesome! Thank you for sharing!
Awesome video!!
Fantastic!!!
Hey Brett. How bug proof are these windows? Im starting my next design and want to make it bug/bomb proof!
Hi there, I would dare say the windows are 100% bugproof if you install the garage door seal correctly.
Great idea! How thick was your plexi? I’m using 1/4” and am wondering if I’ll need longer rivets then what you used.
Thanks! The acrylic I used was 0.22 inches, so it's very close to 1/4" (0.25 inches) The same rivets ought to work just fine for you.
Love it!!!!!
Very nice
How high is the bottom of the horizon windows? And do you sit lower or higher inside?
@RyanPanning About 31". I sit on office chairs and sit at a height that feels comfortable. About halfway between the highest and lowest level maybe...
Nice!
Thanks!
How much corn do youput in front of blind and what yardage?
I don't use bait, just food plots.
This blind has a licking branch and a water tub within 30 yards, however.
Like it, well done good detail explanation. What is dimension of Horizontal Windows, thinking 10 height is plenty?
If you are looking to use it for gun hunting, the dimensions of this window turned horizontally would work great, IMO. If you want it big enough to shoot a compound bow out of, I'd go bigger like I did in my Octagon Box Blind Build videos, more specifically the Part 2 video.
How much bigger/longer would you recommend for compound bow?
Solid!
Best windows move horizontal . grooved boards w / 2 piece pane , 1 with 3/8 over size . ↔ with tab .
@TheYeti308 Got a video posted of what you mean?
@@UncleBucks Even Better ; Take a look at a patio door or slider window , You'll get the drift .
@@TheYeti308insulated sliders are my favorite gun hunting blind windows, but not for vertical bow hunting. I prefer the tall and narrow window for that.
Do you remember the exact dimensions of the of the garage door stop that was used? Thank you for the video!
The top and bottom are 10 1/2". I don't remember the sides. Probably 31 1/2". (32 1/2" minus the width of the top and bottom stops, each being about 1/2" thick.)
How did you cut the plexi?
Table saw. Regular construction blade, lowered down so it barely cuts through. Feed it slow. Leave the protective film on the sheet. This method has worked well for me.
Very nice what are your dimensions for the blind thank
I have a video series that shows every step of building this blind with plans and material list in the description and in the end of Part 2. It's 6x6. ua-cam.com/video/I87eyqTglgM/v-deo.html
How does the acrylic hold up to weathering? Still clear to see through and does heating in deer stand effect them any on fogging
I am seeing no effects of weathering so far. That will probably be a non issue. Wiping them with something other than microfiber would likely cause visibility issues in the long run so be careful with that. Yes, they do fog up with an unvented heater. I've got a video on dealing with fogging windows, which will happen with any windows (including insulated glass) if you use a buddy heater. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I like your window design and plan on using it for the 6 windows in the 4'x6' box blind I am currently building. Have you had any thoughts/ideas on anything you would do different now that you have completed your blind? How have the windows held up for you? Thanks!
Sorry it took so long to respond. I missed your comment somehow. Anyway, it was suggested by someone else to heat the drill holes and the saw cut window edges with a small torch to help them prevent from cracking over time. So far mine have been exposed to many nights of freezing weather and I see no cracks. Only other suggestion I have is to maybe go with a higher quality hinge, like ones with nylon or brass bushings. Not sure if you can get them that small though. Also note that if you want it to operate smoothly, it is imperative to get the hinges aligned straight. Good luck!!
Great video series! thanks so much for your time and effort. Can you tell me what u used to cut the windows? I assume it was the table saw.... what blade did you use?
thanks
Thanks! I used the regular ripping blade in the table saw. I lowered the blade to cut about 1/8 more than the thickness of the acrylic sheet and took my time feeding it through. I did NOT put the blade on backwards. I drilled the holes for the hinges with the high speed setting on the drill, in a forward direction, but taking care to not push it through. I did not have cracking take place from either method.
Where do you buy this garage door seal?
Most Lumber Yards & Construction Material Providers stock it. Also Menards, Home Depot, etc...
Is 1/8 too thin for this method?
@ruffus4924 it works, but it's a bit flimsy. Using 1/8" in a sliding track may be a better method.
Have you noticed any outwards swing from the windows? Does the garage door seal keep it pretty secure?
The windows cannot swing outward because the rubber strip on the garage door strip prevents that from happening. I haven't sat in the stand during a driving rain to see if there is any leaking, but I see no evidence of that on the inside, at least not yet. The window is very secure when closed & latched. There is no movement or rattling.
Do you have a link for the garage door seal you used?
Here you go: www.menards.com/main/doors-windows-millwork/exterior-doors/garage-doors-openers/garage-door-moulding/royal-reg-building-products-7-16-x-2-pvc-garage-door-stops/4171688/doors-windows-millwork/exterior-doors/garage-doors-openers/garage-door-moulding/royal-reg-building-products-7-16-x-2-pvc-garage-door-stops/4171727/p-1510903717951.htm
@@UncleBucks Awesome! Thank you!!
Brett Moravitz what is the best way to cut the acrylic sheeting?
I use my table saw with a regular wood blade, turning in the regular direction. I set the blade so it is only sticking up about 3/8" above the table. Keep the protective wrap on the sheet and just go slow with it while feeding it through.
Great video! We installed the same garage seal that you did. When we open the windows the windows stick to the seal and make a lot of noise pulling away as you open the window. Have you experienced this? If so, how did you fix it?
I did at first but it seems to have lost it's "stickiness" now after taking shape and getting wet several times. You could try pushing on the window a bit around the edges before opening it to see if that loosens it first at all. Otherwise, maybe try sanding the inside of the rubber strip lightly with very fine sandpaper, or maybe brush it lightly with vegetable oil.
I think it's a combination of super clean acrylic and rubber at first that causes that to happen.
Some WD-40 on the rubber seals would probably help.
I wish I could find materials that cheap. Garage door seal up here is almost $50. Acrylic is almost triple what you paid
Sounds like the Acrylic is in high demand due to the virus. Everyone's making shields at their checkout counters. That's crazy for the garage door seal. Should be about $1/foot.
Can we get a 2 year update of these windows? How have they held up?
I just did a review of the entire blind, which includes the windows from this video. Here it is: ua-cam.com/video/peuh8MPerRc/v-deo.html
@@UncleBucks I just seen I'm sorry I didn't see it before I posted
what was your total price per window?
$25 as mentioned in the first 30 seconds
@@UncleBucks obviously I missed the first 30 seconds
@@upnorth181 Happens to the best of us! Take care.
Did you ever think of using window tint to make it harder for deer to see you
I had considered tinted windows, especially for the back corners, but decided to go all clear instead. I painted the inside flat black and I wear black clothes when archery hunting from it. I also have black curtains made from landscape felt that can go in various locations inside. If you prefer tinted windows, go for it! Will probably have to order that online somewhere though...?
@@UncleBucks I see. Yeah I'll probably try it out in my blind if I ever build it. They used to sell window tint at any auto parts store. It's a roll of tinted material you stick to any window. I appreciate you doing the hard work on how to make the frames. I am looking to make a true octagon at 8 feet across.
What do you do in a year when the acrylic cracks around your rivet holes, and yes it will happen if you didn't hit the holes with a torch before mounting the hinges?
I guess we'll see. The new ones I did two years ago haven't cracked yet. I did some 20 years ago that held up also. I'm not trying to force the drill bit through so maybe that helps. Great idea heating up the holes for good measure though.
Hey the rivets won’t rust. They will corrode
Well, maybe in like 100 years. Have you had some corrosion problems with aluminum rivets?
Should be able to build one like ☝️this for
$4000 now with these great cheap lumber prices!!!🤬🤬🤬
Unfortunately so! Probably at least twice as much in material cost to build now v.s. then. Thank you for watching and commenting.
@@UncleBucks Hear we are 1yr later and still expensive. Id like to build another blind, but almost cheaper buying one of the fancy ones. thanks for your content.
Studs and plywood are back down significantly, but metal, hardware and acrylic didn't seem to come down at all. Right now it all really depends on whether or not you find enjoyment from the building process.
@UncleBucks I built one few yrs ago, enjoyed it. Weather took its toll, oil base paint wasn't effective.
@kenn1320 I've had great results with water-based "Durastain" by Wolman.
Those hinges will start squeaking
Don't they all eventually? Same goes for every chair I've ever used. I've got a small bottle of low odor oil for dabbing all hinges and chair components when needed. One could certainly pay up for aluminum, brass or plastic hinges of some kind I suppose. It's tough to keep everything totally silent but there are solutions.
The sun is going to ruin those windows .
What makes you think so? Going on 4 years... they still look new.