Hi Brett. Just finished building this one. Came together really good. My wife teases me about the “fireplace” in it. I lined it with some leftover ceramic tiles. She always said she wanted a small cabin in the woods with lots of windows and a fireplace!
Wow! I just want to say thank you. To be honest, I do not know how I stumbled upon this wonderful video. I have been searching the internet/UA-cam for exactly this size and window design. I have seen many designs, but mainly rectangular in shape and primarily with horizontal windows only. I love to use my compound, but my kids all use crossbows for now. So, I need the horizontal windows, but they are so hard to find for DIY deer blinds. Thank you, thank you for taking your hard-earned time, thoughts and experience and sharing it for others to enjoy! You really should consider some sort of donation button or another way to allow thankful viewers to, well .... say thank you!
Also, did you end up putting this on elevators? I will be putting this up on elevators, but before I get started making this beast I would like to know how you did or planned to do this? Thanks!
@@glajah6380 I did not use elevators for this blind. I put treated 4x4 posts in the ground about 3 feet deep, cut them off level 8-1/2 feet up, then set the blind on top of them with a tractor loader with forks. I also ran cables and anchors off each side for wind insurance. I will be posting a video soon of a tour of this blind, now that it is in place.
Whoever thumbs down this video is either a hater or just blind. This is and outstanding plan for a permanent blind! I actually taking notes because I would like to build something that is similar in the near future.
Thanks man! One dude commented that the video contained too much talking. Apparently he didn't catch on that it's an instructional video. Some people just gotta make themselves feel better by trying to put others down.
Dang man your a rockstar. Im basically incompitent with carpentry and this totally saved the day. I will upload a video with my blind when it is finished. Thank You!
@anthonykontos7931 no issues with the carpeting so far. It can be pulled out to dry or clean, but I haven't had to. Seems if it does get a little wet from tracking in snow, it dries out on its own eventually.
@anthonykontos7931 the ladder and platform is a modified 2-person ladder stand. Not sure where it came from as it's probably 15 or 20 years old. It works pretty well for this though.
I am just starting to build mine, materials are going up in price. Your video is very clear and easy to follow. The hard part will be putting it up in the air. Thanks for the video and dimensions
Build the platform and walls leave the walls off and then get the elevator brackets and 4x4s and bolt them to the platform and erect and level the platform u can stand the post and platform up with 2 good guys and then jst put the pre-built walls up and screw it all together in the air it was easy outta the bed of my pick up!!! Roof was trickiest but doable! But yes this is the best DIY video and by far the best window idea for a hunting shack!Thanks Brett!
Update, Well, I am almost done, few windows and sheet the roof. Issues I ran into. Menards can't make a 4x8 sheet of plywood. Couldn't get the walls to align then found out every sheet of plywood was 48 5/8 wide, length didn't matter since it's cut off. Burnt up my table saw ripping the 2x4's. But my new saw cut the windows nicely. Elevator brackets arrived. So maybe this weekend I will attempt to stand it up. I found a free storm door I put on. Figured that would work smoothly. Has the glass and a good screen. Thanks again
@@louispaffel9646 I think the lumber yards have to accept the reject lumber now. It's all that's available! Ran into the same thing here. Had to actually square up several sheets of plywood to begin with!
Good to hear! It would be nice to be able to post pics along with comments but unfortunately, you can't. Feel free to email them to me at brett@lakeplace.com I'd like to see them!
Great video!! Just finished my blind and everything was spot on. Setting it on post this weekend with the help of some borrowed equipment. Had to re-use window cut outs due to pecan prices/shortage.... thanks a lot Covid-19!!!! But all in all over pleased with how it turned out.
Glad to hear it came together for you! Just a note of caution - when you set it on posts, make sure you bolt the joists to the posts before backing the machinery out. Don't trust the corner triangles alone to hold up the weight of the entire blind. Good luck and good hunting!
@@UncleBucks I am leveling a 2x6 support band bolted to the post for it rest on until permanently attached , which will become a place to attach a 4x6 deck on the door side with stairs and hand rails for my 76 yr old dad. This has been a great project for me and my Dad to work on together. This will be a great addition to my farm and hopefully will get him back into deer hunting more. Thanks for all the detailed information...spent a lot of time looking for exactly what I wanted and this is exactly it !!!!
My sons and I are going to be building one of these using your plans this Spring. I am curious if anyone has had any luck using camo sheet metal exterior that is out there vs. staining? I would like maintenance free if at all possible. Any changes you would have made since it is four years later? Hopefully our build goes well and we can do a second and third one in the coming months. Thank you!
I built two more this year for personal use. I decided to make two vertical bow type windows on the front and side walls instead of the one big window on those walls. It was a good decision for me, because I use them a lot for archery hunting. I've also concluded that the back two corner windows (next to the door on either side) really aren't necessary in most locations where I put the blinds. I prefer a dark backdrop instead of the windows behind me. These two blinds were also built with plywood sides, which got two exterior coats of used oil and diesel mixed together, about 50/50. It's cheap and it works well. After about 1 week in warm weather, the smell of it is gone. Ive also decided that an in-swing exterior house door is best, if you can get one cheap.
@andyalbrecht6836 I don't have the answer to this question. I repurposed some of the material (joists,studs, steel roof, doors) and ended up getting the Acrylic for the windows for free.
Brett, thanks for the detail that is contained in your videos. I have scanned these comments and didn't find an answer to this question. What is the reason that you kept the corners square and didn't follow the miter of the blind, which would allow that plywood to cover the ledger board?
You're welcome. I did it this way for two reasons. The first, it's just easier and quicker to frame out the floor/base. Second, having 90 degree corners provides better framework for setting up the blind on buried 4x4 or 6x6 posts. I use this method most because the ground is usally sloped where I choose to put a blind, and I prefer going with buried posts on uneven terrain. The corner gives you two directions to lag your base to the posts. If you know that you are going to use elevator brackets for your blind (which work great on level ground) the corners could certainly be done as you described.
They seem to help a little with keeping the rain out. Those are different windows that aren't quite as weatherproof in that blind. The only negative I can think of is they would create more wasp nesting opportunities, but no problems with that so far. Not a bad suggestion there for a new video. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@UncleBucks I will be building one of the octagon blinds flowing your in depth instructions. Thank you very much. I will let you know of how it turns out
6x6 Octagon Box Blind Material List Base (pressure treated wood and screws recommended): 3- 2x6x12' for making the joists 2- 4x8x 3/4" plywood for the floor boards 1# of 4" construction screws 2# of 2-1/2" construction screws 1-6'x6' piece of carpeting *construction adhesive - optional for gluing plywood to joists Walls & Roof Materials: 10-2x4x7' for comer studs and inside wall rafters (you might have to buy 5 -2 x 4 x 14' instead) 13-2x4x8', for window frames, headers, and rafters 1-2x4x12' for making the door 7-4x8x1/2" plywood, for the walls and door 2-4x8x1/2" OSB, for the roof sheeting 4 lengths of roof edge, metal or aluminum (sold in 10 lengths?) gray, brown or green recommended 1 length of pole barn steel bottom trim piece, for the top side of the steel roof (sold in 12 lengths) 3-8' pieces of pro rib steel panels (charcoal gray is a good color) roof felt/tar paper (only about 72 sq ft is needed) & a handful of staples 1# of steel panel/ pole barn metal screws (3/4" long I think) 2# of 1-1/4" wafer head screws or galvanized counter sink screws, for attaching plywood to studs 2# of 3-1/2" construction screws for rafter assembly 4 tubes of clear-drying caulking 1 gallon of dark/bark brown exterior solid color stain for inside and out OR 1/2 gallon exterior solid color stain & 1/2 gallon flat black interior paint. *I also used a couple of rattle spray cans of flat black paint for getting the comers painted inside Door Hardware: 3 gate style flat hinges, for the door (painted or galvanized recommended) 1 shed door latch 2 rolls of 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide sponge tape (better quality version recommended) 2 L-Brackets" for door frame reinforcement Windows: 5-clear acrylic sheets / plexiglass (0.220 x 20" x 32") 50 pc pack of 3/16", 1/4" aluminum rivets 11 pairs of standard 2" hinges 1 length of 1/2" gray PVC schedule-40 conduit pipe for the window closers 1 pack of 1-1/2" sheet metal / pan head screws (#8 maybe?), for mounting the window closers 14 washers, 1/4" or smaller for behind the window closers 6 pieces of garage door stop (9' lengths), for making the window seals
Brett do you make these for sale?? It is like you have OCD and I mean this in a good way. I would like to work for you for about a year or so doing any and all projects to learn from you. You are so meticulous and this is where the Quality just flows from within you. You would be one hell of a home builder or trim carpenter but I am sure you are above that you are probably an engineer of some kind. Many thanks for these three videos concerning the deer blind and I will search out more from you. These videos are truly great.
Thank you for the kind words Randy! I learned carpentery as a side gig in college. It's not my profession nor is engineering, so it's probably OCD then, LOL. As of now, I don't build these to sell. Thanks again.
@dotartmax I let the wall sheeting overhang a little, in case one wanted to insulate the floor and sheet the bottom of the floor joists. The underside sheeting ends wouldn't be exposed then -but it isn't necessary to leave that extra 1/4 " or so, if you don't plan to ever sheet the bottom of it.
Looks like a house of card from a structural stand point, especially if there's 3 feet of snow involved!! looks great from a cosmetic stand point! Best of luck and good hunting!!
I'm sure it will be tested soon by a NW WI winter! I had one of these blow over in a windstorm. Roof edges got damaged some but it stayed together. Thanks and good luck to you also.
Awesome videos! Why hold the sheathing down 6 1/2" when a joists (5-1/2") + decking (3/4") equals 6-1/4"? Are you overhanging the bottom that extra 1/4"?
Great question and comment. This is a small glitch on my part. The bottom of the sheeting should end up flush with the bottom of the rim joist, or even a little short is better vs being a little too long, especially if you are using pallet forks to elevate. I think I added that extra quarter inch because I had initially planned to permanently put thicker carpet or padding on the floor before installing the walls/corner studs. In retrospect, putting a 1/4 inch rubber shim (like a piece of truck bedmat or rubber mudflap) under the corner studs would resolve that 1/4 inch overhang and also help to eliminate any squeaks from stud to floor sheeting contact. I noticed that happens now and again while moving around in the blind. An easy fix (if you don't want that extra quarter inch hanging over the bottom is to just place the corner studs at 6-1/4" or even 6" up from the bottom of the wall sheeting instead. It won't end up causing any problems on the top side. I'd recommend putting a dab of silicone or construction adhesive to the bottom of the corner studs if they aren't shimmed with rubber.
@@UncleBucks do your best and silicone the rest!!! Great video! I'm going to try to make some cad drawings based off this video for future builds for myself!
First off nice job building this. Im getting ready to build one and just have a question. When you built the floor why not just make it octagon shaped as well? Was it so you can make the legs closer to the outside?
You certainly can frame the floor that way if you'd like. It will take a few extra angled cuts on the joists but should not be difficult to accomplish. I build the corners this way because you can use elevator brackets on the corners OR set it on 4x4 or 6x6 posts buried in the ground instead, and have those 90 degree corners to bolt the posts to - which to me is way easier to accomplish on uneven terrain v.s. elevator brackets.
Your corner studs 2 x4 Which is really 1 1/2 x 3 1/2 So cutting on 22.5 degree angle over 2 inches is not in middle Won’t be same size. Is this ?intentional
Both pieces should be the same size if done that way. Give it a try with a short piece of 2x4 (1-1/2 x 3-1/2) first. You'll get two equal sides just like in the video. I have found that lowering the blade to just cut through the board results in a bit less binding up in the table saw.
I've seen others who have TV's in their blinds but I prefer to just watch what's happening out the windows. Already hard enough to stay off the damn phone, LOL
I wanted to be able to set it on vertical 4x4 posts that are set into the ground, so those corners do serve a purpose. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
See the description of this video for a material list, and there are basic plans shown at the end of the Part 2 Video. There is no "cut list".
Hi Brett. Just finished building this one. Came together really good. My wife teases me about the “fireplace” in it. I lined it with some leftover ceramic tiles. She always said she wanted a small cabin in the woods with lots of windows and a fireplace!
Good to hear Jimmie! Sounds like both of you might enjoy it. Good luck!!
Just curious with materials cost now what was the cost of this build in todays market?
@bossdawg165 I haven't built one recently nor have I priced out the materials, but maybe around $1200. Just a guess though.
Wow! I just want to say thank you. To be honest, I do not know how I stumbled upon this wonderful video. I have been searching the internet/UA-cam for exactly this size and window design. I have seen many designs, but mainly rectangular in shape and primarily with horizontal windows only. I love to use my compound, but my kids all use crossbows for now. So, I need the horizontal windows, but they are so hard to find for DIY deer blinds. Thank you, thank you for taking your hard-earned time, thoughts and experience and sharing it for others to enjoy! You really should consider some sort of donation button or another way to allow thankful viewers to, well .... say thank you!
Also, did you end up putting this on elevators? I will be putting this up on elevators, but before I get started making this beast I would like to know how you did or planned to do this? Thanks!
@@glajah6380 I did not use elevators for this blind. I put treated 4x4 posts in the ground about 3 feet deep, cut them off level 8-1/2 feet up, then set the blind on top of them with a tractor loader with forks. I also ran cables and anchors off each side for wind insurance. I will be posting a video soon of a tour of this blind, now that it is in place.
Your'e welcome! I am glad that you found it to be helpful. Happy hunting!
@glajah6380 Still one of my most favorite comments on this video! How did yours turn out?
Whoever thumbs down this video is either a hater or just blind. This is and outstanding plan for a permanent blind! I actually taking notes because I would like to build something that is similar in the near future.
Thanks man! One dude commented that the video contained too much talking. Apparently he didn't catch on that it's an instructional video. Some people just gotta make themselves feel better by trying to put others down.
@@UncleBucks Yeah there are some of those idiots out there. Makes you wanna say bro, just chill, have a coke and a smile 💯😂
I’ve built several like this and he took several short cuts.
Dang man your a rockstar. Im basically incompitent with carpentry and this totally saved the day. I will upload a video with my blind when it is finished. Thank You!
@iowabuckinrut760 You're welcome Steven! I appreciate the kind words. Thanks for watching & commenting.
Brett - this is one of the best DIY videos I have ever seen - fantastic ideas which I will use and benefit greatly from. A million thanks for sharing.
Thank you for watching and for commenting!
This is great now planning to Bulid mine , very excited to try it. The audio and video are perfectly done sir thank you.
Thanks! I hope it goes well for you 🔨
@@UncleBucks I was think about using stall mats inside. I worst that carpet might get funky. Did you have any issues with carpet being inside?
@@UncleBucksanother question for you where did you get your stairs on part 3 ?
@anthonykontos7931 no issues with the carpeting so far. It can be pulled out to dry or clean, but I haven't had to. Seems if it does get a little wet from tracking in snow, it dries out on its own eventually.
@anthonykontos7931 the ladder and platform is a modified 2-person ladder stand. Not sure where it came from as it's probably 15 or 20 years old. It works pretty well for this though.
Amazing accomplishment. Thanks for making time to create the video.
I am just starting to build mine, materials are going up in price. Your video is very clear and easy to follow. The hard part will be putting it up in the air. Thanks for the video and dimensions
I am glad that you find it helpful! Good luck with your build Louis. It will be satisfying to hunt out of what you build!
Build the platform and walls leave the walls off and then get the elevator brackets and 4x4s and bolt them to the platform and erect and level the platform u can stand the post and platform up with 2 good guys and then jst put the pre-built walls up and screw it all together in the air it was easy outta the bed of my pick up!!! Roof was trickiest but doable! But yes this is the best DIY video and by far the best window idea for a hunting shack!Thanks Brett!
Update, Well, I am almost done, few windows and sheet the roof. Issues I ran into. Menards can't make a 4x8 sheet of plywood. Couldn't get the walls to align then found out every sheet of plywood was 48 5/8 wide, length didn't matter since it's cut off. Burnt up my table saw ripping the 2x4's. But my new saw cut the windows nicely. Elevator brackets arrived. So maybe this weekend I will attempt to stand it up. I found a free storm door I put on. Figured that would work smoothly. Has the glass and a good screen. Thanks again
@@louispaffel9646 I think the lumber yards have to accept the reject lumber now. It's all that's available! Ran into the same thing here. Had to actually square up several sheets of plywood to begin with!
I'm 12 mins in. This is pretty fantastic. Good job.
Thank you Frank!
I built one nearly identical! Guided largely by your videos. I'd love to share some pics but don't really know how on here
Good to hear! It would be nice to be able to post pics along with comments but unfortunately, you can't. Feel free to email them to me at brett@lakeplace.com I'd like to see them!
Great video!! Just finished my blind and everything was spot on. Setting it on post this weekend with the help of some borrowed equipment. Had to re-use window cut outs due to pecan prices/shortage.... thanks a lot Covid-19!!!! But all in all over pleased with how it turned out.
Glad to hear it came together for you! Just a note of caution - when you set it on posts, make sure you bolt the joists to the posts before backing the machinery out. Don't trust the corner triangles alone to hold up the weight of the entire blind. Good luck and good hunting!
@@UncleBucks I am leveling a 2x6 support band bolted to the post for it rest on until permanently attached , which will become a place to attach a 4x6 deck on the door side with stairs and hand rails for my 76 yr old dad. This has been a great project for me and my Dad to work on together. This will be a great addition to my farm and hopefully will get him back into deer hunting more. Thanks for all the detailed information...spent a lot of time looking for exactly what I wanted and this is exactly it !!!!
@@rodneyedwards5838 that method sounds like a very good idea & also time well spent!
Thank you so much. This is truly gods work.
My sons and I are going to be building one of these using your plans this Spring. I am curious if anyone has had any luck using camo sheet metal exterior that is out there vs. staining? I would like maintenance free if at all possible. Any changes you would have made since it is four years later? Hopefully our build goes well and we can do a second and third one in the coming months. Thank you!
I built two more this year for personal use. I decided to make two vertical bow type windows on the front and side walls instead of the one big window on those walls. It was a good decision for me, because I use them a lot for archery hunting. I've also concluded that the back two corner windows (next to the door on either side) really aren't necessary in most locations where I put the blinds. I prefer a dark backdrop instead of the windows behind me. These two blinds were also built with plywood sides, which got two exterior coats of used oil and diesel mixed together, about 50/50. It's cheap and it works well. After about 1 week in warm weather, the smell of it is gone. Ive also decided that an in-swing exterior house door is best, if you can get one cheap.
@ what do these cost now to build with building material prices the way they have been?
@andyalbrecht6836 I don't have the answer to this question. I repurposed some of the material (joists,studs, steel roof, doors) and ended up getting the Acrylic for the windows for free.
Brett, thanks for the detail that is contained in your videos. I have scanned these comments and didn't find an answer to this question. What is the reason that you kept the corners square and didn't follow the miter of the blind, which would allow that plywood to cover the ledger board?
You're welcome. I did it this way for two reasons. The first, it's just easier and quicker to frame out the floor/base. Second, having 90 degree corners provides better framework for setting up the blind on buried 4x4 or 6x6 posts. I use this method most because the ground is usally sloped where I choose to put a blind, and I prefer going with buried posts on uneven terrain. The corner gives you two directions to lag your base to the posts. If you know that you are going to use elevator brackets for your blind (which work great on level ground) the corners could certainly be done as you described.
Sorry, I found it in comments. Great job on video!!
Great video. Link for scissors?
www.amazon.com/Clauss-ExtremEdge-Titanium-Bonded-Shears/dp/B00EUYEB70/ref=asc_df_B00EUYEB70?tag=bngsmtphsnus-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=79989603208651&hvnetw=s&hvqmt=e&hvbmt=be&hvdev=m&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=&hvtargid=pla-4583589121492645&psc=1
Idea for future video. I noticed a camo blind in the back ground with window awnings / overhangs. Are they working well for you?
They seem to help a little with keeping the rain out. Those are different windows that aren't quite as weatherproof in that blind. The only negative I can think of is they would create more wasp nesting opportunities, but no problems with that so far. Not a bad suggestion there for a new video. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@@UncleBucks I will be building one of the octagon blinds flowing your in depth instructions. Thank you very much. I will let you know of how it turns out
Absolutely freakin' awesome! GreGreat job.
Question: could you cut the four triangles off of the plywood prior to installing it to the base?
Yes, you sure could.
Awesome blind! Do you have a list of the total materials needed if I were to buy it all new?
6x6 Octagon Box Blind Material List
Base (pressure treated wood and screws recommended):
3- 2x6x12' for making the joists
2- 4x8x 3/4" plywood for the floor boards 1# of 4" construction screws
2# of 2-1/2" construction screws
1-6'x6' piece of carpeting
*construction adhesive - optional for gluing plywood to joists
Walls & Roof Materials:
10-2x4x7' for comer studs and inside wall rafters (you might have to buy 5 -2 x 4 x 14' instead)
13-2x4x8', for window frames, headers, and rafters
1-2x4x12' for making the door
7-4x8x1/2" plywood, for the walls and door
2-4x8x1/2" OSB, for the roof sheeting
4 lengths of roof edge, metal or aluminum (sold in 10 lengths?) gray, brown or green recommended
1 length of pole barn steel bottom trim piece, for the top side of the steel roof (sold in 12 lengths)
3-8' pieces of pro rib steel panels (charcoal gray is a good color)
roof felt/tar paper (only about 72 sq ft is needed) & a handful of staples
1# of steel panel/ pole barn metal screws (3/4" long I think)
2# of 1-1/4" wafer head screws or galvanized counter sink screws, for attaching plywood to studs
2# of 3-1/2" construction screws for rafter assembly
4 tubes of clear-drying caulking
1 gallon of dark/bark brown exterior solid color stain for inside and out
OR
1/2 gallon exterior solid color stain & 1/2 gallon flat black interior paint.
*I also used a couple of rattle spray cans of flat black paint for getting the comers painted inside
Door Hardware:
3 gate style flat hinges, for the door (painted or galvanized recommended)
1 shed door latch
2 rolls of 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide sponge tape (better quality version recommended)
2 L-Brackets" for door frame reinforcement
Windows:
5-clear acrylic sheets / plexiglass (0.220 x 20" x 32")
50 pc pack of 3/16", 1/4" aluminum rivets
11 pairs of standard 2" hinges
1 length of 1/2" gray PVC schedule-40 conduit pipe for the window closers
1 pack of 1-1/2" sheet metal / pan head screws (#8 maybe?), for mounting the window closers
14 washers, 1/4" or smaller for behind the window closers
6 pieces of garage door stop (9' lengths), for making the window seals
Starting mine today. Hope it turns out as good!
Good luck and have fun with it!
All done! Turned out great. Thanks again for taking the time to create the step by step videos. I uploaded a video as well.
@@kylekoskinen5976 I just checked it out. Nice!! Looks factory built! And a helpful little apprentice keeping an eye on your workmanship :)
Outstanding detail, thank you for sharing!
Brett do you make these for sale?? It is like you have OCD and I mean this in a good way. I would like to work for you for about a year or so doing any and all projects to learn from you. You are so meticulous and this is where the Quality just flows from within you. You would be one hell of a home builder or trim carpenter but I am sure you are above that you are probably an engineer of some kind. Many thanks for these three videos concerning the deer blind and I will search out more from you. These videos are truly great.
Thank you for the kind words Randy! I learned carpentery as a side gig in college. It's not my profession nor is engineering, so it's probably OCD then, LOL. As of now, I don't build these to sell. Thanks again.
Is this sturdy enough to move yearly? Thank you!
@troysappington791 Yes. I've relocated this blind 3 times. Still good as new.
How’s its 6 1/2 space from Bottom? Did you use 3/4 inch plywood on the bottom how does that add up correctly???
@dotartmax I let the wall sheeting overhang a little, in case one wanted to insulate the floor and sheet the bottom of the floor joists. The underside sheeting ends wouldn't be exposed then -but it isn't necessary to leave that extra 1/4 " or so, if you don't plan to ever sheet the bottom of it.
Do you have a cut list for this blind? Great Video!!!
Thank you. Yes, material list is linked in video description.
There is no cut list, however.
Why did leave the corners square on the floor was there a reason for that I think it should be flush all the way around the walls...
he explained in the first 30 seconds of the video why lol
0:30
Is the floor 1/2 inch or 3/4 inch ?
@@dotartmax 3/4
Do you have a materials list?
very detailed thanks!
Do you remember the name of the color of the exterior paint you used?
It's Woodland Brown. A solid color stain by Wolman "Durastain". Highly recommend it!
Looks like a house of card from a structural stand point, especially if there's 3 feet of snow involved!! looks great from a cosmetic stand point! Best of luck and good hunting!!
I'm sure it will be tested soon by a NW WI winter! I had one of these blow over in a windstorm. Roof edges got damaged some but it stayed together. Thanks and good luck to you also.
Awesome videos! Why hold the sheathing down 6 1/2" when a joists (5-1/2") + decking (3/4") equals 6-1/4"? Are you overhanging the bottom that extra 1/4"?
Great question and comment. This is a small glitch on my part. The bottom of the sheeting should end up flush with the bottom of the rim joist, or even a little short is better vs being a little too long, especially if you are using pallet forks to elevate. I think I added that extra quarter inch because I had initially planned to permanently put thicker carpet or padding on the floor before installing the walls/corner studs. In retrospect, putting a 1/4 inch rubber shim (like a piece of truck bedmat or rubber mudflap) under the corner studs would resolve that 1/4 inch overhang and also help to eliminate any squeaks from stud to floor sheeting contact. I noticed that happens now and again while moving around in the blind. An easy fix (if you don't want that extra quarter inch hanging over the bottom is to just place the corner studs at 6-1/4" or even 6" up from the bottom of the wall sheeting instead. It won't end up causing any problems on the top side. I'd recommend putting a dab of silicone or construction adhesive to the bottom of the corner studs if they aren't shimmed with rubber.
@@UncleBucks do your best and silicone the rest!!! Great video! I'm going to try to make some cad drawings based off this video for future builds for myself!
Did you ever make the drawings and if so are you willing to share?
Thank You!
Hey @unclebucs any chance you have a rough estimate of the weight for full build?
@unclebucks
Hey John, just a guess at around 700 lbs.
Did I miss this some where,what is the price to build this??
I built it in the winter of 2019-2020. Materials were around $800 then. It'll be be much higher now as costs have risen quite a bit since...
Thanks great video! Think I'll give it a try!
Awesome!
What are the sidewalls cut at? Was it 82-3/4 down to 78-1/4?? Someone help lol
89-1/2 to 84-3/4
just regular plywood used for the walls? was anything pressure treated other than the base?
Yes, regular plywood walls but they were stained with an exterior-rated stain for wood.
@@UncleBucks
Do you have a complete plans I'm looking too build this.. In time for this year
@@erikclingerman5602 plans are at the end of Part 2.
How much do you think the finished product weighs?
Just a guess but 600-800lbs
First off nice job building this. Im getting ready to build one and just have a question. When you built the floor why not just make it octagon shaped as well? Was it so you can make the legs closer to the outside?
You certainly can frame the floor that way if you'd like. It will take a few extra angled cuts on the joists but should not be difficult to accomplish. I build the corners this way because you can use elevator brackets on the corners OR set it on 4x4 or 6x6 posts buried in the ground instead, and have those 90 degree corners to bolt the posts to - which to me is way easier to accomplish on uneven terrain v.s. elevator brackets.
I made one a few years ago and I did my base on the same 22.5 degree angle. Out of 2x6s tho and mitered with long lag bolts and strong ext wood glue.
Your corner studs
2 x4 Which is really 1 1/2 x 3 1/2
So cutting on 22.5 degree angle over 2 inches is not in middle Won’t be same size. Is this ?intentional
Both pieces should be the same size if done that way. Give it a try with a short piece of 2x4 (1-1/2 x 3-1/2) first. You'll get two equal sides just like in the video. I have found that lowering the blade to just cut through the board results in a bit less binding up in the table saw.
I have a video on my channel about just making corner studs and nothing else FYI.
Does it have cable?
I've seen others who have TV's in their blinds but I prefer to just watch what's happening out the windows. Already hard enough to stay off the damn phone, LOL
Can’t stand all the short cuts. But I’m OCD. Decent job bro.
Is the video messed up?
What do you mean? It's step by step, start to finish...
Crooked 8 footers....you must shop at Menards!
I didn't want to "name drop" but yeah, that's what you'll get if you buy them there :/
Should of clipped the corners on the base to match the building
I wanted to be able to set it on vertical 4x4 posts that are set into the ground, so those corners do serve a purpose. Thanks for watching and for commenting.
That should have read LEXAN prices not pecan prices lol
Octagon is 8 equal sides that's just a square with four cutout's
It's an "irregular octagon".
Jr. ! Mom said your hot pockets are ready
I made mine out of 2-3 inch diameter trees, bound together with string. Total cost $2. The deer can't even see it.
Whatever works for your location! I've got some ground blinds made out of nothing but blocked up logs. Good luck out there.