My original plan to leave the wall sheeting that extra 1/4" lower than the rim joist may have been to have a lip, in case it were ever decided to insulate the floor and then sheet the bottom side.
You can cut strips from an old tire tube and staple them to the door frame as a weather stripping. Im ganna use some in all my windows on my next build.
After watching the video, I went out to my 8x8 stand I’m currently in the process of building. Thankfully I don’t have the walls on it yet. So I pulled the floor off and add liquid nails to all the joints and reinstalled the floor. Hopefully no squeaking for me. Thanks.
Great review of your build. I live on a 150 acre farm that's owned by a family friend. We have lots of portable bow hunting stands but no real box blinds. I think I'm going to build the Octagon blind for the farm. I will take into consideration all the things you mentioned.
Very detailed descriptions on an amazing build! I could watch your videos all day! You could go to an automovite parts store am get rubber weather stripping for the door seal. They sell it by the roll. Great blind. Love the color!
I used 2-2x4's for the middle cross members. Used liquid nails and nailed them together, then used 2 tubes under the plywood and used 2-1/2" screws every 6". It's been 6 years and no squeaks. I also used treated plywood for exterior sheeting, The ends are separating(ply separation) so Treated isn't the answer either. As far as the windows go, I used buss windows.
@Whippingwillow2001 nice job on squeak reduction methods! Wow, treated plywood should not be doing that. Bad batch of it perhaps...? I tried bus windows on one blind but didn't care for them because I thought they were way too loud to operate.
Would it have been easier and faster to not bevel the ends of the roof rafters ? save 10 cuts and time ? also use facia metal all the way around upside down to cap the steel instead of that weird trim on the front? how much smaller is the roof than it would have been if you just left the 3 roof panels full width? eliminate the time cutting the metal at all
Definitely easier to go with square cuts on rafter ends, which is what I did on this octagon. Fascia upside down would work all the way around, but the high side should go over the top of the steel roof panels and the rest underneath it. The roof would be about a foot wider by using the 3 steel panels full-width, but you would need to scab more osb underneath it, and also use longer 2x4s for the roof frame. Seemed easier to cut the metal down v.s. framing it larger. Just providing one method here and ideas. Lots of options and customizations are available. It's 100% up you to do as you wish if it makes more sense.
Love your blind really nice work! Some of the things I did to mine that I think might help you. 1. I put foam insulation under the floor, the rigid stuff 1.5 inch and then I put mesh screen from like a screen door over it and it does 2 things, 1. keeps all the bugs and mice out, also keeps the heat in a ton better. I also put that screen over my vents to try and keep bugs out it keeps most out but not the ants I also spray the outside of mine and use the powder but I also set one of those bombs off in it this spring and that really worked. I would spray the exposed non treated wood tower with used engine oil it treats the wood and it also keeps all the bugs and critters away, you cut the oil with 30% diesel fuel or kerosene stinks real bad for 2 weeks then totally disipates so make sure you do it in the early summer way before the season. On the door find a larger rubber seal like for a truck tailgate is what I used on mine and then I stapled it to the door edge. Hope that helps! Thanks for the video! If you would like some photos of mine reply back with an email and I would be happy to send!
I've thought about doing something similar to what you descriped to the floor to help keep my feet warm as they do get cold easily. The air vents have the screen on them. They come that way, which is really nice. My 4 x 4 posts are treated but some of the cross braces are just rough-sawn white oak. It might not hurt to treat them as you described. I plan to check out the auto parts store for a rubber seal. You aren't the first one to suggest that, so I'm thinking it's a really good idea! Thanks for watching!!
@@UncleBucks yeah by the looks of under your blind when you filmed it it would be easy to put the foam board on just put it black side out and cut it to fit and glue it up there and then use the spray expanding foam stuff on the edges it makes a world of difference for keeping the heat in. As far as heaters go I went with a 10,000 btu blue flame with a thermostat and a 40lb propane tank the lowest setting on the thermostat is about 70 degrees and it just turns on and off on its own to regulate the temp.
I like your videos and am planning to build the octagon bow blind. While watching your "Octagon Deer Hunting Blind - 3 Years Later - Review & Update" video I noticed a very nice looking hydraulic stool with 5 legs. Can you tell me where you purchased it? I like to adjust my seat height and that stool looks perfect.
Thanks Jim! I got the stool on Amazon. It was a while ago and I couldn't find the exact model. It's similar to this: IMUsee Rolling Stool Swivel Salon Shop Stool Chair Adjustable Drafting Stool Massage Spa Stool with PU Leather Cushioned in Black a.co/d/9aC3bNx Good luck with your build!
Hey Brett, I recently built a deer blind very similar to yours. However, I noticed it looks like your windows are tinted. are they? If so what product did you use? All my research is leading me to blister free films. Apparently the acrylic and regular tint doesn't mesh. Any help appreciated. Thanks!!
Hey Corey, I've never used tinted windows. They are all clear. My brother built some with tinted acrylic, though. He custom ordered them to size somewhere online and had them shipped. I couldn't tell you specifically where, though.
@@UncleBucks thanks for the quick reply. I’ll keep digging. I had a doe blow at me last night in mine, but I built it on a trailer at ground level temporarily until I can get a tractor and suspend it. Thank you!
@GarryJones-bn9rv Our gun season is usually above zero. Probably an average in the 20's F. You might want insulated windows of some kind, if you hunt often in the supercold weather. A vented propane stove, small woodburner or big buddy heater is probably a better heat source too, to help keep the windows defrosted.
Thanks , ya I built a couple of nice blinds . They were expensive to build but are worth it when you been out walking and are cold or all sweated up or just freezing . I put double pane glass windows on . They are perfect ! I also have a camper propane heater installed to heat . It vents outside and you don’t get the moisture inside ! Only dry heat ! Once it’s warm it take very little to keep heated ! Merry Christmas all and thanks for your input !
Hey Ted, I don't have any pictures, but if you watch the video below, the ladder is shown and explained - at about 40 seconds. I initially set this very same octagon up on a different property. ua-cam.com/video/PLAmWU-JjK8/v-deo.html
I can pretty much shoot 360 degrees in this and I'm 6-3, so I need a lot of arm and leg room. I wouldn't want it any smaller, and I do feel a little more comfortable rotating around in the hex, with that extra foot of width. I don't have to be so careful of trying not to bump a wall with my feet or elbows when turning.
Hi Brett, I really like watching your videos and all the information you give us ! Now that you have posted several different blinds I was wondering for one person which blind to you like hunting out of the most and the build ( some are harder to build and not sure if you like them as much for the extra work ) I’m leaning towards your hexagon blind because I like the view you have with it but I see it’s a little more work and was wondering if you think it’s worth it or not ? Looking forward to your response
Hi Mike, I really enjoy the whole building process, so I may not have the best answer for you from the building procedure itself. That said, the Octagon is really a great size for one person to hunt from with a bow or gun. Just enough, but no more than you need for inside room. To me, It feels a little crammed with two, though. The hexagon feels more spacious without losing what you can see, and you have an option to hunt with company, with a little more space to accommodate them. I feel a little less "confined" in the hex also, so if you're a big dude, that might be a better choice for you, and worth a little extra time to build. I don't think the difference in time from one to the other would be significant. Maybe just a little more patience and attention to detail for the hex.
Great job and very informative, I'm planning a similar job and i was wondering whether the legs could be braced horizontally on all 4 sides say 2 or 3ft from the ground and 2 or 3ft down from the floor platform. Whats your views. Thanks. Tony UK
Thanks Tony! The horizontal bracing would probably work as you described, if you've got the posts buried good, like 4 feet down. The cross bracing is more effective at taking out any swaying though, especially if your floor is 8 feet above ground or higher.
@@UncleBucks Thanks for getting back to me, my platform will be about 7.5ft from the ground and i intend bolting the legs down onto 3ft deep concrete pads. Access will be through a trap door in the floor. Youre an inspiration, keepit up.
Hey Robert, just a guess, but 500 to maybe 700lbs. I used a 48 hp tractor with forks. The rear tires are filled with liquid for additional rear weight, fyi.
Brett, I plan on building a 6 x8 stand, and was wondering what you recommend for a roof pitch. Thinking of 7'6" on the, and wondering if I could make the front be 7' or if I should drop it to 6' 6"? Across a 6' width, this would either be either a 6" drop or 12". 1/12 or 2/12 slope. Thoughts? Also for a rifle stand where would you recommend putting the bottom of the windows? Thanks again for your videos.
You're welcome, Gordon. In my opinion, 6" of drop is enough when you are spanning just 8 feet (or less). I've found that in a box that size windows at 36" from the floor is good for visibility. It might be a little low for a shooting rest height, but I make it a priority of being able to see well. I use shooting sticks in that situation.
I was wondering why the extra 1/4” overhang on the plywood. Thought maybe I made a mistake. I also have the same issue with the rubber weather stripping on my door to. It sticks a little at the top. Overall very happy with the blind build.
If I were to ever move this blind again, I'll just tack a strip of lath (or something that's at least 1/4" thick) to the bottom of the joist. That'll prevent any damage from the pallet forks. Thanks for watching my videos!
It worked fine on the ground but my visibility was very limited along the sides. I much prefer being elevated as I can see deer coming before they are right on top of me. I think 8 feet up is an ideal height in most situations. 12' 4x4s buried about 3 feet, with a foot or so to spare to cut them all off level.
That is a good question; I don't know what the alternatives to elevating it would be other than a piece of machinery with lifting capabilities. The black funnel is a transmission funnel with a garden holes attached running down through the floor and outside. It is for relief during those long sits when it's too cold outside to expose one's self 😆
love the stand! Not understanding the problem with pouring quick-crete around posts in the ground.? We've done all of ours that way, even my shop is built that way. Never been a problem. besides that, is your walls 2x2 framing? Thought about going with that.
Thanks! How long have your posts been encased in concrete? My worry/concern would be that concrete poured in the ground around wood would encapsulate moisture and rot the wood at a faster rate, but I don't have any first-hand experience or evidence of that. It would be interesting to see what the difference would be in 20 years comparing set posts using those two different methods.
@@UncleBucks I can see it that way too. These were treated 4x6 s, about 3' 6" in the ground, braced up then put some rock in to hold them place, then poured the shop slab at the same time so the truck mix actually flowed around the posts while pouring the main slab. I believe that was 2005-2006? Just saying, that's the way we did it. Didn't want it moving around in this black dirt down here.
@@txtpqb Makes sense. I forgot to reply that the walls are basically framed 2x2. There's a very detailed, full instructional video of how I built that blind in the end screen of the video and also in the video description. Thanks for watching it!
@@UncleBucks yeah, I found it after I sent the last msg. Its a great build. We're actually going to frame mine up tomorrow and see what happens. Great info on all your vids, keep 'em coming.
Thanks! No monster bucks taken with a bow of of it yet, but I've passed many decent bucks out of it. I spend much more time bowhunting out of ladder stands though.
Great video! Looking to build a similar 6 x 8 box blind in the next month. Question - how high are the windows in this stand? In other words, how high from the ground did you put the lower window sill? I’m about 6’4” so I’m trying to gauge how high to put my windows. Thanks in advance!
Foam board or spray foam would be the only way that I would insulate a deer blind however, I don't feel that it is necessary as I've found the buddy heater to be plenty adequate at keeping me warm in a blind this size.
Brett, you did a great job on that blind. I like everything about it. I have one question though. How do you go about bracing yourself on those long shots without much of a shelf to stabilize your firearm?
Thanks Kevin. I haven't taken a real long poke yet, but I keep a primos bipod in there. I personally don't think I need one of those fancy gun holders. At some point one needs to quit buying stuff, but more power to those who choose to use one.
There's a link in the description with two videos on how to build it step by step. Some basic plans are shown at the end of the Part 2 video and there's a material list in the description of both Part 1 and Part 2.
sinking treated wood in dirt is the same as encasing in concrete. they will decay. Best to fill holes entirely with concrete then setting the posts on top with proper hardware making sure wood is not in direct contact with concrete
If I were building a cabin, porch or a deck onto a house, absolutely. I'll likely not get that elaborate for a deer blind though, especially since I occasionally move them to different locations as the years go by.
The Durastain is a water-based product also, so why would that hold up so well on the octagon, compared to the Rust Oleum on the 6x8? Same plywood for wall sheeting for both blinds BTW...
I know but rustoliums tech knowledge is really advanced..I've used it for years.a wise man told me 40 yrs ago, latex is a coating, you can apply it to glass and peal it off..oil base penetrates and has to be scraped off. I see wooden decks, log cabins, wood art works stained with latex and it drys out and peels off. Another factor is moisture..if the wood isn't fully dried the inner moisture is drawn out thru the wood toward the sun/ outside heat... I thank you for you post & the info on that product..I do.
My original plan to leave the wall sheeting that extra 1/4" lower than the rim joist may have been to have a lip, in case it were ever decided to insulate the floor and then sheet the bottom side.
Of all the Blinds I have seen on UA-cam, yours is the only one with Proper bracing.
Cross bracing works very well for taking out any movement and sway. Thanks for watching and commenting!
@UncleBucks a brace has to be 3 times as wide as it is thick to hold a 1 inch board is a better brace than 2×4s.
You can cut strips from an old tire tube and staple them to the door frame as a weather stripping. Im ganna use some in all my windows on my next build.
After watching the video, I went out to my 8x8 stand I’m currently in the process of building. Thankfully I don’t have the walls on it yet. So I pulled the floor off and add liquid nails to all the joints and reinstalled the floor. Hopefully no squeaking for me. Thanks.
You're welcome! It'll be worth the extra effort. Good luck this fall!
Great review of your build. I live on a 150 acre farm that's owned by a family friend. We have lots of portable bow hunting stands but no real box blinds. I think I'm going to build the Octagon blind for the farm. I will take into consideration all the things you mentioned.
Thanks for watching & commenting Mark! Good luck out there.
Great video series for the octagon blind!!
Thank you!!
Very nice blind build and location!
Very detailed descriptions on an amazing build! I could watch your videos all day! You could go to an automovite parts store am get rubber weather stripping for the door seal. They sell it by the roll. Great blind. Love the color!
Excellent suggestion for the door seal. Thanks!!
Liked the video and will probably use this video to build 2 this spring 👍. We live north Wisconsin also. Great video
Thanks!!
What county are you located in?
Great info! Lot of good tips on building the blind, I am going to start mine soon!
Check into Smoke Seal to seal the door. I'm a General Contractor and we use the left over smoke seal on our blinds all the time and it works well.
I had no idea that's what it was called. Have you found the adhesive to be strong/good on it?
I used 2-2x4's for the middle cross members. Used liquid nails and nailed them together, then used 2 tubes under the plywood and used 2-1/2" screws every 6". It's been 6 years and no squeaks.
I also used treated plywood for exterior sheeting, The ends are separating(ply separation) so Treated isn't the answer either.
As far as the windows go, I used buss windows.
@Whippingwillow2001 nice job on squeak reduction methods! Wow, treated plywood should not be doing that. Bad batch of it perhaps...? I tried bus windows on one blind but didn't care for them because I thought they were way too loud to operate.
Would it have been easier and faster to not bevel the ends of the roof rafters ? save 10 cuts and time ? also use facia metal all the way around upside down to cap the steel instead of that weird trim on the front? how much smaller is the roof than it would have been if you just left the 3 roof panels full width? eliminate the time cutting the metal at all
Definitely easier to go with square cuts on rafter ends, which is what I did on this octagon. Fascia upside down would work all the way around, but the high side should go over the top of the steel roof panels and the rest underneath it. The roof would be about a foot wider by using the 3 steel panels full-width, but you would need to scab more osb underneath it, and also use longer 2x4s for the roof frame. Seemed easier to cut the metal down v.s. framing it larger. Just providing one method here and ideas. Lots of options and customizations are available. It's 100% up you to do as you wish if it makes more sense.
Love your blind really nice work! Some of the things I did to mine that I think might help you. 1. I put foam insulation under the floor, the rigid stuff 1.5 inch and then I put mesh screen from like a screen door over it and it does 2 things, 1. keeps all the bugs and mice out, also keeps the heat in a ton better. I also put that screen over my vents to try and keep bugs out it keeps most out but not the ants I also spray the outside of mine and use the powder but I also set one of those bombs off in it this spring and that really worked. I would spray the exposed non treated wood tower with used engine oil it treats the wood and it also keeps all the bugs and critters away, you cut the oil with 30% diesel fuel or kerosene stinks real bad for 2 weeks then totally disipates so make sure you do it in the early summer way before the season. On the door find a larger rubber seal like for a truck tailgate is what I used on mine and then I stapled it to the door edge. Hope that helps! Thanks for the video! If you would like some photos of mine reply back with an email and I would be happy to send!
I've thought about doing something similar to what you descriped to the floor to help keep my feet warm as they do get cold easily. The air vents have the screen on them. They come that way, which is really nice. My 4 x 4 posts are treated but some of the cross braces are just rough-sawn white oak. It might not hurt to treat them as you described. I plan to check out the auto parts store for a rubber seal. You aren't the first one to suggest that, so I'm thinking it's a really good idea! Thanks for watching!!
@@UncleBucks yeah by the looks of under your blind when you filmed it it would be easy to put the foam board on just put it black side out and cut it to fit and glue it up there and then use the spray expanding foam stuff on the edges it makes a world of difference for keeping the heat in. As far as heaters go I went with a 10,000 btu blue flame with a thermostat and a 40lb propane tank the lowest setting on the thermostat is about 70 degrees and it just turns on and off on its own to regulate the temp.
Nice stand. What are the dimensions on the base 6x6?
Thanks! Yes, 6x6.
I like your videos and am planning to build the octagon bow blind. While watching your "Octagon Deer Hunting Blind - 3 Years Later - Review & Update" video I noticed a very nice looking hydraulic stool with 5 legs. Can you tell me where you purchased it? I like to adjust my seat height and that stool looks perfect.
Thanks Jim! I got the stool on Amazon. It was a while ago and I couldn't find the exact model. It's similar to this:
IMUsee Rolling Stool Swivel Salon Shop Stool Chair Adjustable Drafting Stool Massage Spa Stool with PU Leather Cushioned in Black a.co/d/9aC3bNx
Good luck with your build!
Hey Brett, I recently built a deer blind very similar to yours. However, I noticed it looks like your windows are tinted. are they? If so what product did you use? All my research is leading me to blister free films. Apparently the acrylic and regular tint doesn't mesh. Any help appreciated. Thanks!!
Hey Corey, I've never used tinted windows. They are all clear. My brother built some with tinted acrylic, though. He custom ordered them to size somewhere online and had them shipped. I couldn't tell you specifically where, though.
@@UncleBucks thanks for the quick reply. I’ll keep digging. I had a doe blow at me last night in mine, but I built it on a trailer at ground level temporarily until I can get a tractor and suspend it. Thank you!
@coryelliott4072 being elevated will certainly help, good luck!!
How cold does get where you are? I’m in Manitoba and we get -35 . Not sure the window system you use would work for us as the my would nice up I think
@GarryJones-bn9rv Our gun season is usually above zero. Probably an average in the 20's F. You might want insulated windows of some kind, if you hunt often in the supercold weather. A vented propane stove, small woodburner or big buddy heater is probably a better heat source too, to help keep the windows defrosted.
Thanks , ya I built a couple of nice blinds . They were expensive to build but are worth it when you been out walking and are cold or all sweated up or just freezing . I put double pane glass windows on . They are perfect ! I also have a camper propane heater installed to heat . It vents outside and you don’t get the moisture inside ! Only dry heat ! Once it’s warm it take very little to keep heated ! Merry Christmas all and thanks for your input !
Do you have any pictures of the double man ladder you used for the steps? I like that. I have a couple double man’s I don’t use anymore
Thanks
Hey Ted, I don't have any pictures, but if you watch the video below, the ladder is shown and explained - at about 40 seconds. I initially set this very same octagon up on a different property. ua-cam.com/video/PLAmWU-JjK8/v-deo.html
@@UncleBucks I appreciate it. Love your videos. I’ve built 2 of your blinds
@tedbraun5180 Good to hear! Thanks for the support! What state are you located in?
@@UncleBucks Indiana
Are you about to sit right in tbd middle and shoot 360 degrees? Or do you need to jump up to your hexahon blind to do that?
I can pretty much shoot 360 degrees in this and I'm 6-3, so I need a lot of arm and leg room. I wouldn't want it any smaller, and I do feel a little more comfortable rotating around in the hex, with that extra foot of width. I don't have to be so careful of trying not to bump a wall with my feet or elbows when turning.
@@UncleBucks it doesn't help that i use a 12" front bar...
@@tylerkirsch103 I don't know what you mean...
@@UncleBucks 12" front stabilizer. Makes it a lot more awkward to shoot in a blind
@tylerkirsch103 oh, gotcha. Yeah that may be tight shooting in the octagon.
Hi Brett, I really like watching your videos and all the information you give us ! Now that you have posted several different blinds I was wondering for one person which blind to you like hunting out of the most and the build ( some are harder to build and not sure if you like them as much for the extra work ) I’m leaning towards your hexagon blind because I like the view you have with it but I see it’s a little more work and was wondering if you think it’s worth it or not ? Looking forward to your response
Hi Mike, I really enjoy the whole building process, so I may not have the best answer for you from the building procedure itself. That said, the Octagon is really a great size for one person to hunt from with a bow or gun. Just enough, but no more than you need for inside room. To me, It feels a little crammed with two, though. The hexagon feels more spacious without losing what you can see, and you have an option to hunt with company, with a little more space to accommodate them. I feel a little less "confined" in the hex also, so if you're a big dude, that might be a better choice for you, and worth a little extra time to build. I don't think the difference in time from one to the other would be significant. Maybe just a little more patience and attention to detail for the hex.
Great job and very informative, I'm planning a similar job and i was wondering whether the legs could be braced horizontally on all 4 sides say 2 or 3ft from the ground and 2 or 3ft down from the floor platform. Whats your views.
Thanks. Tony UK
Thanks Tony! The horizontal bracing would probably work as you described, if you've got the posts buried good, like 4 feet down. The cross bracing is more effective at taking out any swaying though, especially if your floor is 8 feet above ground or higher.
@@UncleBucks Thanks for getting back to me, my platform will be about 7.5ft from the ground and i intend bolting the legs down onto 3ft deep concrete pads. Access will be through a trap door in the floor. Youre an inspiration, keepit up.
Any guess on the final weight? What did you use to lift it up. You said compact tractor, but that's a wide range. Nice work, starting mine this week
Hey Robert, just a guess, but 500 to maybe 700lbs. I used a 48 hp tractor with forks. The rear tires are filled with liquid for additional rear weight, fyi.
did you ever try using rubber roofing its not as noisy as steel
I haven't, but there's a layer of 1/2" OSB/plywood underneath the metal so it's really not an issue with noise.
Brett, I plan on building a 6 x8 stand, and was wondering what you recommend for a roof pitch. Thinking of 7'6" on the, and wondering if I could make the front be 7' or if I should drop it to 6' 6"? Across a 6' width, this would either be either a 6" drop or 12". 1/12 or 2/12 slope. Thoughts? Also for a rifle stand where would you recommend putting the bottom of the windows? Thanks again for your videos.
You're welcome, Gordon. In my opinion, 6" of drop is enough when you are spanning just 8 feet (or less). I've found that in a box that size windows at 36" from the floor is good for visibility. It might be a little low for a shooting rest height, but I make it a priority of being able to see well. I use shooting sticks in that situation.
Where did you find that gate latch for the door? Does it have a name? Having a hard time finding one
Search Amazon for shed door handle latch or shed door handle lock.
I was wondering why the extra 1/4” overhang on the plywood. Thought maybe I made a mistake. I also have the same issue with the rubber weather stripping on my door to. It sticks a little at the top. Overall very happy with the blind build.
If I were to ever move this blind again, I'll just tack a strip of lath (or something that's at least 1/4" thick) to the bottom of the joist. That'll prevent any damage from the pallet forks. Thanks for watching my videos!
How did your blind work on the ground? And when you elevated it, do you have a recommended height?
It worked fine on the ground but my visibility was very limited along the sides. I much prefer being elevated as I can see deer coming before they are right on top of me. I think 8 feet up is an ideal height in most situations. 12' 4x4s buried about 3 feet, with a foot or so to spare to cut them all off level.
How do you raise your stand if you don’t have a tractor to raise it?
Also, what was that black funnel for in the corner?
That is a good question; I don't know what the alternatives to elevating it would be other than a piece of machinery with lifting capabilities. The black funnel is a transmission funnel with a garden holes attached running down through the floor and outside. It is for relief during those long sits when it's too cold outside to expose one's self 😆
love the stand! Not understanding the problem with pouring quick-crete around posts in the ground.? We've done all of ours that way, even my shop is built that way. Never been a problem.
besides that, is your walls 2x2 framing? Thought about going with that.
Thanks! How long have your posts been encased in concrete? My worry/concern would be that concrete poured in the ground around wood would encapsulate moisture and rot the wood at a faster rate, but I don't have any first-hand experience or evidence of that. It would be interesting to see what the difference would be in 20 years comparing set posts using those two different methods.
@@UncleBucks I can see it that way too. These were treated 4x6 s, about 3' 6" in the ground, braced up then put some rock in to hold them place, then poured the shop slab at the same time so the truck mix actually flowed around the posts while pouring the main slab. I believe that was 2005-2006? Just saying, that's the way we did it. Didn't want it moving around in this black dirt down here.
@@txtpqb Makes sense. I forgot to reply that the walls are basically framed 2x2. There's a very detailed, full instructional video of how I built that blind in the end screen of the video and also in the video description. Thanks for watching it!
@@UncleBucks yeah, I found it after I sent the last msg. Its a great build. We're actually going to frame mine up tomorrow and see what happens. Great info on all your vids, keep 'em coming.
Great stand! Important question, have you successfully shot some big bucks with your bow from this stand?
Thanks! No monster bucks taken with a bow of of it yet, but I've passed many decent bucks out of it. I spend much more time bowhunting out of ladder stands though.
Great video! Looking to build a similar 6 x 8 box blind in the next month. Question - how high are the windows in this stand? In other words, how high from the ground did you put the lower window sill? I’m about 6’4” so I’m trying to gauge how high to put my windows. Thanks in advance!
Thanks! The bigger windows are about 31" from the floor to the bottom. The narrow, vertical windows are about 17" from the floor to the bottom.
Would you recommend insulating the blind with foam Board?
Foam board or spray foam would be the only way that I would insulate a deer blind however, I don't feel that it is necessary as I've found the buddy heater to be plenty adequate at keeping me warm in a blind this size.
Brett, you did a great job on that blind. I like everything about it. I have one question though. How do you go about bracing yourself on those long shots without much of a shelf to stabilize your firearm?
Thanks Kevin. I haven't taken a real long poke yet, but I keep a primos bipod in there. I personally don't think I need one of those fancy gun holders. At some point one needs to quit buying stuff, but more power to those who choose to use one.
Ever consider using Flexseal at all?
For on top of the floor joists? I hadn't but I bet it would work....
Great video. You may want to try Ortho Home Defense bug killer. It kills everything that’s all I use.
Good to know know! Thank you Harvey.
Great video. Thanks. Will like and subscribe.
Outside plywood treated ?
It isn't, but it's probably worth spending a bit more and go with treated.
Where did you pick up the stain?
You can get it at Menards Home Center if you have one near you.
Very helpful
Do you have a material and cut plan available
There's a link in the description with two videos on how to build it step by step. Some basic plans are shown at the end of the Part 2 video and there's a material list in the description of both Part 1 and Part 2.
sinking treated wood in dirt is the same as encasing in concrete. they will decay. Best to fill holes entirely with concrete then setting the posts on top with proper hardware making sure wood is not in direct contact with concrete
If I were building a cabin, porch or a deck onto a house, absolutely. I'll likely not get that elaborate for a deer blind though, especially since I occasionally move them to different locations as the years go by.
Take care of the base with blind paint it will last too
👍👍
Latex doesn't SOAK IN, that's why that stuff didn't last..& Rust-Oleum usually make good product
The Durastain is a water-based product also, so why would that hold up so well on the octagon, compared to the Rust Oleum on the 6x8? Same plywood for wall sheeting for both blinds BTW...
I know but rustoliums tech knowledge is really advanced..I've used it for years.a wise man told me 40 yrs ago, latex is a coating, you can apply it to glass and peal it off..oil base penetrates and has to be scraped off. I see wooden decks, log cabins, wood art works stained with latex and it drys out and peels off.
Another factor is moisture..if the wood isn't fully dried the inner moisture is drawn out thru the wood toward the sun/ outside heat...
I thank you for you post & the info on that product..I do.
The octagon looks nice but its just wasted space , might as well build a box .
Ok, then go for it.
@@UncleBucks I have multiple times .