Wow I knew from the beginning this was a factory service manual-level instruction of how this can be done. Kudos of taking these awesome detailed videos of every single connectors. Now I have confidence to do this myself. Thank you!!!
@txfromwi1947 Hi Dan, this is one of the most informative & instructional videos on a Range Rover ever made. I had a couple of quick questions. If you were to do this project without interrupting & videoing, how long would it have taken from start to finish ? Also, is there any way we could take a borescope to assess the condition of the front and rear crossover pipes before making a decision to change them out ? Again, thanks for your contributions & great instructional video !
Dan, a very big thank you from a fellow Houstonian! I was able to complete the project last night. Thank you so much, especially for the detail on the alignment pins, electrical connectors, and the order of reassembly. I have seen every part of this video at least three or four times. Absolutely incredible instruction.
LOL !!! So many hours of my voice droning on and on - better than sleeping pills! Thanks! And keep an eye on coolant temperature and level - especially for the first few hundred miles. You never know, we might be seeing each other in the neighborhood and never knowing it!
Ha, it was a lot of hours but well worth the watch! I worked on my previous RR Sport 4.4 quite a bit, and my current 92 RR Classic. I had avoided working on this LR4 due to the daunting supercharger removal, but we had the telltale coolant drip coming down the frame rail from the back of the engine, so it was time. I went ahead and replaced the coupler (wow- so much quieter), valve cover gasket and PCV valve while I was in there. Where did you find the online workshop manual? I haven't had much luck. Thanks again, Daniel
@@danielrobert238 I purchased mine from Craigs Manuals, about $15. I note that the 2013 is somehow not actually in the manuals even though it should be based on the titles, maybe the titles are wrong?
Thank you so much! I was worried when I initially saw how long the video was but going through the detail in your video convinced me I could do this....with your help I did! Thank you again for your efforts in putting this video out.
Thank you!!! I just ordered all the parts and plan to do this on my RR 5.0 SC. I've done this job on my NA LR4, but was hesitant about removing the SC on the Full Fat. I plan to follow your steps using the engine bar and bespoke guide pins. Thanks again for spending the time to capture all of this in a single video, you did a wonderful job.
This video saved me THOUSANDS of dollars. Your walk through was perfect. The plug was awful but with your help we got through it. Your alignment pin advice was great. Can't say thank you enough. Please never ever stop with these videos! I love this rig and I really want to keep it on the road.
Great video, thank so much for all the detail Dealership replaced heater manifold on my 2016 Rover hse sport just over a year ago, and now it cracked again I purchased the upgraded aluminum parts( heater manifold, front y pipes) from ebay and used your video to do it myself. saved 2800 Thanks
Thanks! Strange that a new rear crossover would crack so quickly. As you now know, or should know, it's not easy to torque properly, maybe they did not make the effort to do it properly. Please let us know how those aluminum parts hold up. I looked at some in my area a couple of years ago and did not purchase because I did not like them, but there might be other vendors by now with better quality...
What a great video, thank you so much for sharing! I too was struggling with the connector on the back of the supercharger. Then I realized you can just remove the single fastener for the sensor 1:05:20 and pull the whole sensor out with the cable still attached. Then you can easily remove the connector. Once you pull the SC, you can reassemble the sensor.
Instead of using an engine hoist to pull the supercharger off, you can use a pry bar. In order to get access to the pry spot on the driver-side, you need to take the throttle body off (which is only 4 bolts and a hose). There's a UA-cam video from channel "Project ATHOS" that shows how to do this and where the pry spot is. That video is on a Range Rover, but it's the same SCV6 engine as the LR4. Using the pry bar method worked well for me.
Thanks for the great video! I followed it with some small deviations. Notably I also replaced my PCV valve diaphragm and cap, as the diaphragm is known to rip with age - part number LR133579. I also decided to go with aftermarket metal front crossover pipes instead of the redesigned plastic ones, as there are reports on forums of the redesigned plastic pipes also cracking and leaking after a couple of years.
Thanks! I should have done the PCV, but it never crossed my mind - duh... Let us all know how those aluminum crossovers work out, when I looked at the ones available at the time I was not happy with the quality. Hopefully you found a better vendor.
@@txfromwi1947 It's been about a month and there haven't been any coolant leaks. So I'm happy with the aluminum crossover pipes. I got mine from Euro AMP.
Thank you Dan for the thorough info. Working on my 2016 right now with just under 70k mls. My wife actually heated the engine all the way to hot a few times after the low coolant warning was on. She had to let it cool off 10-15 min and drive again after a 1/4 mile its back to hot but was trying to get home from a couple mls away. So anyways head gasket is fine after doing compression test, but I was very concerned about it. Should have just called a towing comp. I'm wating on all my parts to come in right now.
Thank you SO much. This is the best guide I think I’ve ever seen on UA-cam - let alone for the LR4. I’m a computer guy learning to wrench, and this video gave me the confidence I needed to get at it on my own. It’s like having an instructor with me on call. Can you point me in the direction to obtaining the digital shop manual? I’ve looked high and low and haven’t found the one for the SCV6, yet.
I was able to disconnect the thermostat from the bottom hose without the plastic sticking to the thermostat. You just need a thin flat-head screwdriver. Take the metal clip off completely, and jam the screwdriver in between the thermostat and the plastic piece, getting into the grooves on the thermostat and prying up on them. Took about 20 minutes to get the thermostat off by itself.
I only have a leak on the rear crossover Heater manifold. Great video, but I was hoping to try and replace just that piece and do it without pulling the turbocharger. What do you think? I can feel all the bolts and seems like it may be possible.
Conversation moved over to the forum, but for everyone else. Others on this forum will advise that if one is leaking the other one is not far behind and it's a good idea to just go ahead and replace them both. Probably good advice. There was one guy on the forum that insisted that he had a shop that could change out the rear crossover without taking everything apart. When the forum told him it was almost impossible he doubled down, got quite bent out of shape and later posted that his shop had completed the job without taking everything apart - there was no objective evidence of this claim, so who knows. His claim was that if you took off the windshield cowl that it provided just enough extra space to get back there. I find this highly doubtful as the cowl fits directly over sheet metal, but I must admit that there might be a tiny bit of extra space created. IF we accept that there is just barely enough space, then you would need small hands and I just do not see how anyone could ever properly torque it back together properly due to the challenging space issues. To my knowledge, no-one has ever demonstrated that it can be PROPERLY completed in this manner - might be your claim to fame! If you have not changed out your windshield cowl, it's probably warped and ready to be replaced, so you could take off the cowl and give the rear crossover a try...at the very least you would have a new cowl.
I'm a sadist when it comes to owning high maintenance euro cars. In thought my bmws were a pain sometimes. Then I bought an LR4 for my wife. I love the way it drives but it's such a PITA to do any preventative maintenence. Just did spark plugs and the rear drivers side to me 30 minutes to get out... it was the 30Torx screw that holds the coil down. Micro turns with a torx bit in needle nose vice grips. Thermostat is weeping coolant out the seams now. So I'll be doing that now. Just ordered my Thermostat from fcp euro and bottom radiator hose from AB. Also bought a vacuum bleeder. Despite all that I'm looking at buying another one for me. Lol Found another super clean one owner for cheap that needs brakes, front end refresh, cooling system refresh and other minor maintenance.
Thank you so much for your time and effort! this video is definitely a go-to video! I’ll watch again and again :) I’m thinking about purchasing this 2016 LR4 soon!
Hello Dan, Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing all of your experience and work! I won't do this myself right now but would like to study how this is done. Can you share the 2016 LR4 SCV6 repair manual with me please? Thank you!
Thanks! Sure, I need your email, and I can understand not putting your email here. And I am not sure if there is a way to PM me via UA-cam. SO, go to Landroverworld.com. Members/Find Member, txfromwi, Click on my user name and Start Conversation. Send me your email and I can send you a link.
This is a superb resource, thank you so much. One question: to get more room at the back of the engine isn’t it possible to remove the fresh air intake cowl? I’d have thought that would make a huge difference in terms of operating space available. (I’m trying this job today and am going to see if it does make a difference…!)
I took a look and I think that it would require additional deconstruction in addition to the cowl. I have replaced the cowl on a different project and in that area the cowl is just one thickness of plastic. As I reach back there it feels about 1" thick - so there is more back there to be removed. but please do update us!
Great video. I am going a little further with a head gasket replacement. However, my supercharger spins but I have 87,000 miles. Should I do the rebuild of the coupler as a prevention?
Absolutely yes, do that supercharger maintenance! It's easy and inexpensive. There is a sub-section in the main video that shows the supercharger work. Good Luck!
My supercharger snout was attached very strongly and would not come off. When I attempted to pry on it in the spot at timestamp 1:51:15, it simply chipped off the overhanging aluminum. There's another pry spot on the bottom side of the supercharger - it has a much larger surface area, but also a 1" gap. Using a pry bar here also ended up just chipping the aluminum for me. I ended up buying a cheap $12 "Disc Brake Pad Installation Spreader" tool on Amazon and using it in this underside pry spot to finally pop the supercharger snout off. If buying one of these tools, get a version that allows you to insert a 3/8 ratchet (or breaker bar) for more leverage than the built-in handles - I had to use a 3/8 breaker bar with quiet a bit of force. Also, place this spreader sideways into the pry spot - if you just place the ends into the pry spot then the metal plates will flex and might not get the job done.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the advice! Sounds like an unwanted addition to the project! Hard to believe that yours was this well attached, I would think that your dowels must have been corroded?
How difficult would it be to just remove the rear crossover pipe? All the other pipes have been replaced under warranty but I was wondering if removing the windshield wipers and trim would give me enough space to do the job
Thanks. There has been some rather heated discussion of doing exactly that over on the Rover discussion group. Under that plastic trim there is sheet metal, and removing the plastic trim will give a small bit of added access directly to the rear crossover pipe, but not much. One individual reports that his independent shop took that approach and was able to change the rear crossover directly. Of course we have no idea if that approach was actually successful and this was just someone taking a position and not retracting if/when proven wrong, or, if it could be completed, if they properly torqued things back together again. (See below) Myself, and multiple others, who have completed the task with our own hands, do not believe that it is possible to properly complete the project using your proposed approach. In particular, even with everything apart, it is very challenging to properly torque the bottom passenger side bolt. I do not see any way that this can be properly torqued when taking the route you suggest. It's 10Nm, a not insignificant amount of torque, and taking your route, i just do not see how that's possible. Note that you need to purchase / use the proper tool for removing the wiper arms. It's about $15 at Amazon. Do NOT just yank on the arms to get them off! If indeed you try this approach, and you can validate that it can be PROPERLY torqued, by PERSONALLY seeing it done, not just taking someone's word for it, please do let us know!
I was curious if you ever attempted to remove the plastic hose adapter from the lower thermostat housing? I understand the "dealer said" it's a permanent connection but Im skeptical. Amazing video, thank you!
Thanks! I could not get it apart, but others confirm that it does indeed come apart and that it was relatively easy to do. I do not know why mine was so difficult.
I'm having issues with what I think is air in the cooling system after replacing the radiator. I have filled the through the upper hose into the radiator and back toward the engine, same for the supercharger radiator and the hose at the top of it. I'm using the GAP tool and can see the temp settings for both temp sensors. I've reved the engine to 2,000 RPM's but the rear sensor is not moving and no hot air is coming out of the air vents with the heat on. Once the engine gets to 230 I cut it off so to not overheat the engine. I just can't seem to push that air pocket out
I suggest you post that same question at www.landroverworld.org. and see what the experts say. I would use a vacuum system and work through that procedure, but be aware that the procedure is different when vacuuming a "full" system rather than a totally empty system. I discuss this wrinkle briefly in the video. Good luck!
Thank you for posting. I have the same vehicle. I just had the water pump , thermostat, serpentine belt, the pipes replaced . After 2 days drving it the check engine came on n it sounds like im boiling water under the hood.🤢 Any advice? Thank you
Thanks. To the best of my knowledge, with 3 of these, these never make that kind of sound. It might be that the system might have not been properly refilled and there is an air bubble in the system that is preventing circulation. After it's totally cold, I would use a vacuum system to properly evacuate all the air and then refill - noting that using a vacuum system on a "filled" system will result in a net overfill that will need to be addressed by removing some coolant. I discuss that a bit in the video. It's also possible that the new thermostat is a dud and is stuck shut.
@@cjwinkelseth8818 If you start looking for vibrations, that's a whole new avenue. I suggest that you join landroverworld.org and post your question there. Lots more opinions than just mine...
Very well done sir. Amazed with the camera accuracy and attention to detail. Not easy to accomplish. I require a videographer on my work channel. Partzilla.
Thanks! I hold the phone myself, which means alot of talking and less watching any actual physical work being done - which is rare in these videos. It's unfortunate, but that's how it is!.
Is that engine bar a harbor freight item? I’m doing This job on a 2017 Discovery 5 right now and am at the point of actually pulling the blower/manifold off.
I purchased mine via Amazon as shown in the video in the tools section - but those are readily available anywhere. The critical part is the exact spread on the feet so it actually works/fits on the LR4. Not to bad mouth anyone, but I do not do business with Harbor Freight so I cannot comment on their exact tool.
Great video - very helpful. How is the nylon supercharger isolator holding up? I've heard some people recommend using it instead of the spring torsion version, but others say the SC is noisier with these installed and to stick with the original.
Thanks! HA! Good timing on this question - I was just there last week! OK, so it's been exactly 2 years. The truck lives across the country at university. It has driven cross country from Houston, TX to Rochester, NY and has lived there for those 2 years. Mostly very light in town driving with some misc. 1-5 hour one way trips. Total mileage since the work is just less than 10K. On the visit last week I had a chance to drive the truck for a few days. Since it is not with me on a daily basis it receives extra attention when I visit. It's picture perfect. I noted no issues on all the repairs. As far as noise, not sure how a solid coupling would be noisier than that spring slapping around in there, BUT, I also have a 2015 (still young enough to have the spring tensioner), so (nominally) exactly the same vehicle, and I note the same SC whining sound coming from both when accelerating from a stop. I note no SC sound from either vehicle when at speed. I do not note any "increased" noise with the nylon coupler vs the spring tensioner. I do note that both the vehicles have a whine as the SC spins up. BUT, if we are discussing every teeny tiny microscopic bit of sound, I could make this hypothesis: Nylon might be posited to be perhaps a bit more whiny on acceleration than the spring due to the SC spinning up more quickly because there is no spring to compress. I suppose the spring un-compresses at just the time when road noise takes over and spring compression might slow spin up just a bit to delay the sound. But that's just a hypothesis. But if you look at the wear in that shaft at 60K miles from the failed spring, it's a no brainer to go to nylon.
@@txfromwi1947 Mine is at 140,000 miles (bought it at 90K so I've been maintaining for last 50). This is the first time I've had the supercharger out, so I have no idea yet what the condition of mine is or if it's original spring tensioner, but I ordered the OE Eaton nylon isolated from superchargers online - I'm guessing those who have had issues with "noise" from the nylon versions are maybe using cheap aftermarket couplers that don't use proper materials and/or aren't fabricated with tight enough tolerances causing extra "whir" or "clack" when spinning. Doesn't seem like the nylon would absorb as much force as the spring which begs the question of why it was designed with the spring to begin with, but if Eaton says its ok who am I to argue? Going out to pry the snout off now - had to pick up some new pry bars as my initial attempts were unfruitful. Stuck on there good - I'm guessing it's never been off.
@@greggageorge Keep us all informed! Consider posting on the landroverworld.org forum where you can post photos. Good Luck! You are aware that one bolt is hidden up through/inside the throttle body right ???
@@txfromwi1947 Yes got all the bolts out - just didn't want to separate. They had been together for 140K and seemed happy to stay that way, lol. Used some penetrating oil all around the seam, and found a good flat pry point on top and finally got it loose. Will share some pics on the rover world thread - thanks again for your detailed documentation of this process.
So, I opened the coolant reservor while it was hot, when all of a sudden it turned into merky water. There is no oil in coolant and no coolant in the oil. I checked the oil cooler, but it's fine. I flushed the system out, and I'll be ready to put it back together tomorrow. What could have happened? Everything looks fine. BTW, I opened because it was getting hot, just like if it had a bubble.
We all do that once and only once in our lives. Never open a system when it's hot - very dangerous - glad you were not injured. Not sure why the coolant appears murky, is it possible the water used was not distilled water? You might be seeing the minerals in the water coming out as solids, which could cause that appearance.
Hi Hope all is well. .question Do you happen to have e all the engine bolt down torque specs For a complete heads and supercharger re assembly ? I have the RANGE ROVER 2016 3.0 SUPERCHARGED I'd appreciate the help much much..
Great job detailing your efforts. I don’t recall you mentioning, but what was the condition of the front and rear crossover pipe flanges where they mount? At what mileage is your vehicle? Thanks.
Thanks! 60K miles. Rear Crossover as found at 1:26:30 - no issues, o-rings getting flat. Front Crossover as found is at 1:32:30, imminent failure - got it just in time.
Thank you for your video! I have the same year of river & I am doing this job also. I wanted to ask you if you could kindly forward me to the right direction to get the 2016 manual. Is it maybe possible to maybe buy it off you ? Please let me know. Once again thank you for the video, very detailed!! Alex
Mechanics manuals for the 2014-2016 can be hard to locate. I was gifted a set by a fellow enthusiast. If you PM me your email I will send you a copy. Good luck on your project !
Any chance of receiving a copy of the manual from you? I'm going to do this job on my 2015 and I'm very appreciative of your video. I don't think I would tackle the job without it. Thanks.
As of the last time I looked, the manuals for the 2016 were not available on-line. I would go to Craigs manuals to see if they are available now. My manuals were gifted to my by a kind individual on-line and I will return that favor. Set up an account at landroverworld.org, find me at txfromwi, send me a private message with your email and I will give you access to Google Drive where you can download them.
i changed my water pump recently, i thought that was where the leak was coming from. I broke a bolt and turned an easy job into a week long ordeal. And now it still is losing coolant. I think I got a lemon..
Ugh, sorry about your problems. The torque spec on those water pump bolts is only 12Nm, that's almost nothing, you were properly tightening it - yes? In my reading and on the forums, the water pump proper is almost never the cause. Much more likely is the oil cooler tube o-ring(s), if it's dripping down the front of the engine it is the outer most o-ring. or Where the front cross-over attaches /inserts into the block. Of course many other possibilities as well.... If it is running Rover brand coolant, that has UV dye in it. Get a UV flashlight and take a look around after it gets dark out. Good Luck!
@@txfromwi1947 actually the bolt broke when i was loosening it. When inserting, I just got the bolts gudentite. Oil cooler o-rings all looked good as well. All I know is after all that hassle its still losing coolant. I've got a lemon on my hands and I hate it.
Wow, when I remove bolts they are usually looser than i would think based on the torque specs. Since you are commenting on the video for a 2016, I assume you have the V-6 engine, but there was a water pump and oil cooler tube design change somewhere along the line and that change over was likely during the 2014-2015 model years, but I cannot say that for sure. Note that the original water pump and oil cooler tube are different than the re-designed water pump and oil cooler tube and that they MUST be replaced AS A SET when doing the work. The o-ring and the mating surface are both improved. While I cannot say for certain, in my opinion, putting a re-designed water pump on with the old style oil cooler tube would cause a leak. If you want to see that please go to the video for the same project on the 2013, and in there I show the old and new configurations. Good Luck!
Sir, thank you so much for the work you put into this Video. Ive learned a lot through the process, and it has made me rethink my approach to this project. You had mentioned the 2016 shop book was gifted to you, is there any chance you can gift it to me as well? If not I understand…. Ive already wasted money on 2 versions that aren’t up to snuff. If youre amenable to sharing, I can send my email address. Thank you, Brandon
Thanks! Everyone needs to be aware that these manuals are NOT Chilton manuals, they do NOT provide step by step instructions. They are thousands of pages of what I call semi-useful information. The video does tell you pretty much everything you need to know, but I am happy to share the documents I have. I need an e-mail address. I propose joining landroverworld.org, then finding me at txfromwi and then sending a PM.
I have this vehicle. Modern engines are such a pain to disassemble. Thanks so much for your detailed descriptions and taking time to make this video!
Thanks, I hope you find it useful!
Wow I knew from the beginning this was a factory service manual-level instruction of how this can be done. Kudos of taking these awesome detailed videos of every single connectors. Now I have confidence to do this myself. Thank you!!!
Thanks!
@txfromwi1947 Hi Dan, this is one of the most informative & instructional videos on a Range Rover ever made. I had a couple of quick questions. If you were to do this project without interrupting & videoing, how long would it have taken from start to finish ? Also, is there any way we could take a borescope to assess the condition of the front and rear crossover pipes before making a decision to change them out ? Again, thanks for your contributions & great instructional video !
Dan, a very big thank you from a fellow Houstonian! I was able to complete the project last night. Thank you so much, especially for the detail on the alignment pins, electrical connectors, and the order of reassembly. I have seen every part of this video at least three or four times. Absolutely incredible instruction.
LOL !!! So many hours of my voice droning on and on - better than sleeping pills!
Thanks! And keep an eye on coolant temperature and level - especially for the first few hundred miles. You never know, we might be seeing each other in the neighborhood and never knowing it!
Ha, it was a lot of hours but well worth the watch! I worked on my previous RR Sport 4.4 quite a bit, and my current 92 RR Classic. I had avoided working on this LR4 due to the daunting supercharger removal, but we had the telltale coolant drip coming down the frame rail from the back of the engine, so it was time. I went ahead and replaced the coupler (wow- so much quieter), valve cover gasket and PCV valve while I was in there. Where did you find the online workshop manual? I haven't had much luck. Thanks again, Daniel
@@danielrobert238 I purchased mine from Craigs Manuals, about $15. I note that the 2013 is somehow not actually in the manuals even though it should be based on the titles, maybe the titles are wrong?
Thank you so much for such a detailed video. I’m presently working through this on a 2018 Discovery 5 to replace the same parts.
Thanks and good luck on your project!
Thank you so much! I was worried when I initially saw how long the video was but going through the detail in your video convinced me I could do this....with your help I did! Thank you again for your efforts in putting this video out.
Thanks! Glad it helped!
Thank you!!! I just ordered all the parts and plan to do this on my RR 5.0 SC. I've done this job on my NA LR4, but was hesitant about removing the SC on the Full Fat. I plan to follow your steps using the engine bar and bespoke guide pins. Thanks again for spending the time to capture all of this in a single video, you did a wonderful job.
Thanks!
This video saved me THOUSANDS of dollars. Your walk through was perfect. The plug was awful but with your help we got through it. Your alignment pin advice was great. Can't say thank you enough. Please never ever stop with these videos! I love this rig and I really want to keep it on the road.
Thank you so much!
Great video, thank so much for all the detail Dealership replaced heater manifold on my 2016 Rover hse sport just over a year ago, and now it cracked again I purchased the upgraded aluminum parts( heater manifold, front y pipes) from ebay and used your video to do it myself. saved 2800 Thanks
Thanks!
Strange that a new rear crossover would crack so quickly. As you now know, or should know, it's not easy to torque properly, maybe they did not make the effort to do it properly.
Please let us know how those aluminum parts hold up. I looked at some in my area a couple of years ago and did not purchase because I did not like them, but there might be other vendors by now with better quality...
What a great video, thank you so much for sharing! I too was struggling with the connector on the back of the supercharger. Then I realized you can just remove the single fastener for the sensor 1:05:20 and pull the whole sensor out with the cable still attached. Then you can easily remove the connector. Once you pull the SC, you can reassemble the sensor.
Thanks!
Instead of using an engine hoist to pull the supercharger off, you can use a pry bar. In order to get access to the pry spot on the driver-side, you need to take the throttle body off (which is only 4 bolts and a hose). There's a UA-cam video from channel "Project ATHOS" that shows how to do this and where the pry spot is. That video is on a Range Rover, but it's the same SCV6 engine as the LR4. Using the pry bar method worked well for me.
Thanks for watching and for the advice!
Simply an amazing job you did here, thanks for all your efforts. I am an expat Brit and appreciate your efforts all the more!
Thanks !!
Thanks for the great video! I followed it with some small deviations. Notably I also replaced my PCV valve diaphragm and cap, as the diaphragm is known to rip with age - part number LR133579. I also decided to go with aftermarket metal front crossover pipes instead of the redesigned plastic ones, as there are reports on forums of the redesigned plastic pipes also cracking and leaking after a couple of years.
Thanks!
I should have done the PCV, but it never crossed my mind - duh...
Let us all know how those aluminum crossovers work out, when I looked at the ones available at the time I was not happy with the quality. Hopefully you found a better vendor.
@@txfromwi1947 It's been about a month and there haven't been any coolant leaks. So I'm happy with the aluminum crossover pipes. I got mine from Euro AMP.
Fabulous! Thank you so much for doing all that!! I’ve ordered all the parts to including the supercharger. Very grateful for the attention to detail…
Thanks! Good Luck!
Thank you Dan for the thorough info. Working on my 2016 right now with just under 70k mls. My wife actually heated the engine all the way to hot a few times after the low coolant warning was on. She had to let it cool off 10-15 min and drive again after a 1/4 mile its back to hot but was trying to get home from a couple mls away. So anyways head gasket is fine after doing compression test, but I was very concerned about it. Should have just called a towing comp. I'm wating on all my parts to come in right now.
Thanks and Good Luck! These are especially delicate re: overheating - time will tell, sometimes the damage becomes apparent further down the road.
Loving this kind of content.
Thanks!
Thank you SO much. This is the best guide I think I’ve ever seen on UA-cam - let alone for the LR4. I’m a computer guy learning to wrench, and this video gave me the confidence I needed to get at it on my own. It’s like having an instructor with me on call.
Can you point me in the direction to obtaining the digital shop manual? I’ve looked high and low and haven’t found the one for the SCV6, yet.
Please PM me your email address. I got mine from a fellow enthusiast as well, so just paying it forward....
Nevermind. I see at 1:27 you provide explanations. Thanks again.
I hope you find it useful!
I was able to disconnect the thermostat from the bottom hose without the plastic sticking to the thermostat. You just need a thin flat-head screwdriver. Take the metal clip off completely, and jam the screwdriver in between the thermostat and the plastic piece, getting into the grooves on the thermostat and prying up on them. Took about 20 minutes to get the thermostat off by itself.
That will save us all $ next time around. Thanks!
I only have a leak on the rear crossover Heater manifold. Great video, but I was hoping to try and replace just that piece and do it without pulling the turbocharger. What do you think? I can feel all the bolts and seems like it may be possible.
Conversation moved over to the forum, but for everyone else.
Others on this forum will advise that if one is leaking the other one is not far behind and it's a good idea to just go ahead and replace them both.
Probably good advice.
There was one guy on the forum that insisted that he had a shop that could change out the rear crossover without taking everything apart.
When the forum told him it was almost impossible he doubled down, got quite bent out of shape and later posted that his shop had completed the job without taking everything apart - there was no objective evidence of this claim, so who knows.
His claim was that if you took off the windshield cowl that it provided just enough extra space to get back there.
I find this highly doubtful as the cowl fits directly over sheet metal, but I must admit that there might be a tiny bit of extra space created.
IF we accept that there is just barely enough space, then you would need small hands and I just do not see how anyone could ever properly torque it back together properly due to the challenging space issues. To my knowledge, no-one has ever demonstrated that it can be PROPERLY completed in this manner - might be your claim to fame!
If you have not changed out your windshield cowl, it's probably warped and ready to be replaced, so you could take off the cowl and give the rear crossover a try...at the very least you would have a new cowl.
I'm a sadist when it comes to owning high maintenance euro cars. In thought my bmws were a pain sometimes. Then I bought an LR4 for my wife. I love the way it drives but it's such a PITA to do any preventative maintenence. Just did spark plugs and the rear drivers side to me 30 minutes to get out... it was the 30Torx screw that holds the coil down. Micro turns with a torx bit in needle nose vice grips.
Thermostat is weeping coolant out the seams now. So I'll be doing that now. Just ordered my Thermostat from fcp euro and bottom radiator hose from AB. Also bought a vacuum bleeder.
Despite all that I'm looking at buying another one for me. Lol
Found another super clean one owner for cheap that needs brakes, front end refresh, cooling system refresh and other minor maintenance.
Good Luck!
Thank you so much for your time and effort! this video is definitely a go-to video! I’ll watch again and again :) I’m thinking about purchasing this 2016 LR4 soon!
Thanks! If you don't know already, you will learn that Rovers are a labor of love, but the rewards of good maintenance are a fantastic ride!
Wow what a fantastic video. Thank you 👍
Thanks!
Hello Dan, Excellent video, thank you so much for sharing all of your experience and work! I won't do this myself right now but would like to study how this is done. Can you share the 2016 LR4 SCV6 repair manual with me please? Thank you!
Thanks!
Sure, I need your email, and I can understand not putting your email here.
And I am not sure if there is a way to PM me via UA-cam.
SO, go to Landroverworld.com. Members/Find Member, txfromwi, Click on my user name and Start Conversation.
Send me your email and I can send you a link.
This is a superb resource, thank you so much. One question: to get more room at the back of the engine isn’t it possible to remove the fresh air intake cowl? I’d have thought that would make a huge difference in terms of operating space available. (I’m trying this job today and am going to see if it does make a difference…!)
I took a look and I think that it would require additional deconstruction in addition to the cowl. I have replaced the cowl on a different project and in that area the cowl is just one thickness of plastic. As I reach back there it feels about 1" thick - so there is more back there to be removed. but please do update us!
Fantastic video. However, I can't believe it takes that much work to get the supercharger off!
Thanks!
Great video. I am going a little further with a head gasket replacement. However, my supercharger spins but I have 87,000 miles. Should I do the rebuild of the coupler as a prevention?
Absolutely yes, do that supercharger maintenance! It's easy and inexpensive. There is a sub-section in the main video that shows the supercharger work.
Good Luck!
My supercharger snout was attached very strongly and would not come off. When I attempted to pry on it in the spot at timestamp 1:51:15, it simply chipped off the overhanging aluminum. There's another pry spot on the bottom side of the supercharger - it has a much larger surface area, but also a 1" gap. Using a pry bar here also ended up just chipping the aluminum for me. I ended up buying a cheap $12 "Disc Brake Pad Installation Spreader" tool on Amazon and using it in this underside pry spot to finally pop the supercharger snout off. If buying one of these tools, get a version that allows you to insert a 3/8 ratchet (or breaker bar) for more leverage than the built-in handles - I had to use a 3/8 breaker bar with quiet a bit of force. Also, place this spreader sideways into the pry spot - if you just place the ends into the pry spot then the metal plates will flex and might not get the job done.
Thanks for watching and thanks for the advice!
Sounds like an unwanted addition to the project!
Hard to believe that yours was this well attached, I would think that your dowels must have been corroded?
@@txfromwi1947 the dowels did not show any notable signs of corrosion. i think it was just very strong RTV adhesion. or maybe a combination of the 2
@@os46059 Wow, not much RTV was on mine, they must have been feeling generous in yours!
How difficult would it be to just remove the rear crossover pipe? All the other pipes have been replaced under warranty but I was wondering if removing the windshield wipers and trim would give me enough space to do the job
Thanks.
There has been some rather heated discussion of doing exactly that over on the Rover discussion group.
Under that plastic trim there is sheet metal, and removing the plastic trim will give a small bit of added access directly to the rear crossover pipe, but not much.
One individual reports that his independent shop took that approach and was able to change the rear crossover directly. Of course we have no idea if that approach was actually successful and this was just someone taking a position and not retracting if/when proven wrong, or, if it could be completed, if they properly torqued things back together again. (See below)
Myself, and multiple others, who have completed the task with our own hands, do not believe that it is possible to properly complete the project using your proposed approach. In particular, even with everything apart, it is very challenging to properly torque the bottom passenger side bolt. I do not see any way that this can be properly torqued when taking the route you suggest. It's 10Nm, a not insignificant amount of torque, and taking your route, i just do not see how that's possible.
Note that you need to purchase / use the proper tool for removing the wiper arms. It's about $15 at Amazon. Do NOT just yank on the arms to get them off!
If indeed you try this approach, and you can validate that it can be PROPERLY torqued, by PERSONALLY seeing it done, not just taking someone's word for it, please do let us know!
I was curious if you ever attempted to remove the plastic hose adapter from the lower thermostat housing? I understand the "dealer said" it's a permanent connection but Im skeptical. Amazing video, thank you!
Thanks!
I could not get it apart, but others confirm that it does indeed come apart and that it was relatively easy to do.
I do not know why mine was so difficult.
I'm having issues with what I think is air in the cooling system after replacing the radiator. I have filled the through the upper hose into the radiator and back toward the engine, same for the supercharger radiator and the hose at the top of it. I'm using the GAP tool and can see the temp settings for both temp sensors. I've reved the engine to 2,000 RPM's but the rear sensor is not moving and no hot air is coming out of the air vents with the heat on. Once the engine gets to 230 I cut it off so to not overheat the engine. I just can't seem to push that air pocket out
I suggest you post that same question at www.landroverworld.org. and see what the experts say. I would use a vacuum system and work through that procedure, but be aware that the procedure is different when vacuuming a "full" system rather than a totally empty system. I discuss this wrinkle briefly in the video. Good luck!
Nice job thanks my friend
Thanks!
Thank you for posting. I have the same vehicle. I just had the water pump , thermostat, serpentine belt, the pipes replaced . After 2 days drving it the check engine came on n it sounds like im boiling water under the hood.🤢 Any advice? Thank you
Thanks.
To the best of my knowledge, with 3 of these, these never make that kind of sound.
It might be that the system might have not been properly refilled and there is an air bubble in the system that is preventing circulation. After it's totally cold, I would use a vacuum system to properly evacuate all the air and then refill - noting that using a vacuum system on a "filled" system will result in a net overfill that will need to be addressed by removing some coolant. I discuss that a bit in the video.
It's also possible that the new thermostat is a dud and is stuck shut.
@@txfromwi1947 could it be the engine mount?
@@cjwinkelseth8818
If you start looking for vibrations, that's a whole new avenue. I suggest that you join landroverworld.org and post your question there. Lots more opinions than just mine...
Very well done sir. Amazed with the camera accuracy and attention to detail. Not easy to accomplish. I require a videographer on my work channel. Partzilla.
Thanks!
I hold the phone myself, which means alot of talking and less watching any actual physical work being done - which is rare in these videos. It's unfortunate, but that's how it is!.
Is that engine bar a harbor freight item? I’m doing This job on a 2017 Discovery 5 right now and am at the point of actually pulling the blower/manifold off.
I purchased mine via Amazon as shown in the video in the tools section - but those are readily available anywhere. The critical part is the exact spread on the feet so it actually works/fits on the LR4.
Not to bad mouth anyone, but I do not do business with Harbor Freight so I cannot comment on their exact tool.
Great video - very helpful. How is the nylon supercharger isolator holding up? I've heard some people recommend using it instead of the spring torsion version, but others say the SC is noisier with these installed and to stick with the original.
Thanks!
HA! Good timing on this question - I was just there last week!
OK, so it's been exactly 2 years.
The truck lives across the country at university. It has driven cross country from Houston, TX to Rochester, NY and has lived there for those 2 years. Mostly very light in town driving with some misc. 1-5 hour one way trips. Total mileage since the work is just less than 10K.
On the visit last week I had a chance to drive the truck for a few days. Since it is not with me on a daily basis it receives extra attention when I visit.
It's picture perfect. I noted no issues on all the repairs.
As far as noise, not sure how a solid coupling would be noisier than that spring slapping around in there, BUT, I also have a 2015 (still young enough to have the spring tensioner), so (nominally) exactly the same vehicle, and I note the same SC whining sound coming from both when accelerating from a stop. I note no SC sound from either vehicle when at speed.
I do not note any "increased" noise with the nylon coupler vs the spring tensioner. I do note that both the vehicles have a whine as the SC spins up.
BUT, if we are discussing every teeny tiny microscopic bit of sound, I could make this hypothesis:
Nylon might be posited to be perhaps a bit more whiny on acceleration than the spring due to the SC spinning up more quickly because there is no spring to compress. I suppose the spring un-compresses at just the time when road noise takes over and spring compression might slow spin up just a bit to delay the sound. But that's just a hypothesis.
But if you look at the wear in that shaft at 60K miles from the failed spring, it's a no brainer to go to nylon.
@@txfromwi1947 Mine is at 140,000 miles (bought it at 90K so I've been maintaining for last 50). This is the first time I've had the supercharger out, so I have no idea yet what the condition of mine is or if it's original spring tensioner, but I ordered the OE Eaton nylon isolated from superchargers online - I'm guessing those who have had issues with "noise" from the nylon versions are maybe using cheap aftermarket couplers that don't use proper materials and/or aren't fabricated with tight enough tolerances causing extra "whir" or "clack" when spinning. Doesn't seem like the nylon would absorb as much force as the spring which begs the question of why it was designed with the spring to begin with, but if Eaton says its ok who am I to argue?
Going out to pry the snout off now - had to pick up some new pry bars as my initial attempts were unfruitful. Stuck on there good - I'm guessing it's never been off.
@@greggageorge Keep us all informed! Consider posting on the landroverworld.org forum where you can post photos. Good Luck!
You are aware that one bolt is hidden up through/inside the throttle body right ???
@@txfromwi1947 Yes got all the bolts out - just didn't want to separate. They had been together for 140K and seemed happy to stay that way, lol. Used some penetrating oil all around the seam, and found a good flat pry point on top and finally got it loose. Will share some pics on the rover world thread - thanks again for your detailed documentation of this process.
So, I opened the coolant reservor while it was hot, when all of a sudden it turned into merky water. There is no oil in coolant and no coolant in the oil. I checked the oil cooler, but it's fine. I flushed the system out, and I'll be ready to put it back together tomorrow. What could have happened? Everything looks fine. BTW, I opened because it was getting hot, just like if it had a bubble.
We all do that once and only once in our lives. Never open a system when it's hot - very dangerous - glad you were not injured.
Not sure why the coolant appears murky, is it possible the water used was not distilled water? You might be seeing the minerals in the water coming out as solids, which could cause that appearance.
Hi
Hope all is well.
.question
Do you happen to have e all the engine bolt down torque specs
For a complete heads and supercharger re assembly ?
I have the RANGE ROVER 2016 3.0 SUPERCHARGED
I'd appreciate the help much much..
Best video
Thanks!
Good way to put yourself to sleep at night, crazy long...
Thank you!!!
Thanks!
Great job detailing your efforts. I don’t recall you mentioning, but what was the condition of the front and rear crossover pipe flanges where they mount? At what mileage is your vehicle? Thanks.
Thanks! 60K miles. Rear Crossover as found at 1:26:30 - no issues, o-rings getting flat. Front Crossover as found is at 1:32:30, imminent failure - got it just in time.
Does this Work for a 2018 range rover Supercharged? (Crossover Pipes)
I would think that there are many similarities, but there are probably even more differences.
Thank you for your video! I have the same year of river & I am doing this job also. I wanted to ask you if you could kindly forward me to the right direction to get the 2016 manual. Is it maybe possible to maybe buy it off you ? Please let me know.
Once again thank you for the video, very detailed!!
Alex
Mechanics manuals for the 2014-2016 can be hard to locate. I was gifted a set by a fellow enthusiast. If you PM me your email I will send you a copy.
Good luck on your project !
Any chance of receiving a copy of the manual from you? I'm going to do this job on my 2015 and I'm very appreciative of your video. I don't think I would tackle the job without it. Thanks.
Where did you purchase your online manual?
As of the last time I looked, the manuals for the 2016 were not available on-line. I would go to Craigs manuals to see if they are available now.
My manuals were gifted to my by a kind individual on-line and I will return that favor. Set up an account at landroverworld.org, find me at txfromwi, send me a private message with your email and I will give you access to Google Drive where you can download them.
i changed my water pump recently, i thought that was where the leak was coming from. I broke a bolt and turned an easy job into a week long ordeal. And now it still is losing coolant. I think I got a lemon..
Ugh, sorry about your problems.
The torque spec on those water pump bolts is only 12Nm, that's almost nothing, you were properly tightening it - yes?
In my reading and on the forums, the water pump proper is almost never the cause.
Much more likely is the oil cooler tube o-ring(s), if it's dripping down the front of the engine it is the outer most o-ring.
or
Where the front cross-over attaches /inserts into the block.
Of course many other possibilities as well....
If it is running Rover brand coolant, that has UV dye in it.
Get a UV flashlight and take a look around after it gets dark out.
Good Luck!
@@txfromwi1947 actually the bolt broke when i was loosening it. When inserting, I just got the bolts gudentite. Oil cooler o-rings all looked good as well. All I know is after all that hassle its still losing coolant. I've got a lemon on my hands and I hate it.
Wow, when I remove bolts they are usually looser than i would think based on the torque specs.
Since you are commenting on the video for a 2016, I assume you have the V-6 engine, but there was a water pump and oil cooler tube design change somewhere along the line and that change over was likely during the 2014-2015 model years, but I cannot say that for sure.
Note that the original water pump and oil cooler tube are different than the re-designed water pump and oil cooler tube and that they MUST be replaced AS A SET when doing the work. The o-ring and the mating surface are both improved. While I cannot say for certain, in my opinion, putting a re-designed water pump on with the old style oil cooler tube would cause a leak.
If you want to see that please go to the video for the same project on the 2013, and in there I show the old and new configurations.
Good Luck!
𝚙𝚛𝚘𝚖𝚘𝚜𝚖 😌
Thanks!
Sir, thank you so much for the work you put into this Video. Ive learned a lot through the process, and it has made me rethink my approach to this project. You had mentioned the 2016 shop book was gifted to you, is there any chance you can gift it to me as well? If not I understand…. Ive already wasted money on 2 versions that aren’t up to snuff. If youre amenable to sharing, I can send my email address.
Thank you,
Brandon
Thanks!
Everyone needs to be aware that these manuals are NOT Chilton manuals, they do NOT provide step by step instructions. They are thousands of pages of what I call semi-useful information.
The video does tell you pretty much everything you need to know, but I am happy to share the documents I have.
I need an e-mail address. I propose joining landroverworld.org, then finding me at txfromwi and then sending a PM.