Thanks, this video helped me out. The small black fitting on the front of the water pump snapped off while I was doing the job and I lost a day waiting on the replacement part. Others might want to consider buying LR012636 as it will likely snap for you too.. The crossover pipe (LR018275) was definitely the cause of my slow leak. It was in bad shape.
Thank you! You’ll want to have LR011038 and LR05530 just in case yours break. One is the cap on the cross flow pipe you must reuse. The other is the bleed screw on the rear passenger side. They are prone to break so I’d replace either way as preventative maintenance. I replaced and bought additional as spares. Also, make sure to fully seat the cross flow pipe when installing by pressing down hard until you hear and feel it bottom out.
Kenneth, great video. I wish I had found this before I attempted repair as it might have prevented some serious headache. I am pretty handy and just replaced the transmission pan last week with no issue. This fix however has given me a run for my money... Literally. I must have repeated this repair six times and still have a leak somewhere. Can't figure it out for the life of me. In the process, this last time (attempt #6), I buttoned everything up and now I am getting a crazy rough idle and check engine light and it STILL has a minor water leak. I've got it headed over to my local indy to get it looked at now. I would say this repair is not for the faint of heart...it's relatively easy to get everything in where it goes, and no tight squeezes, but man, getting everything seated properly... I have a feeling in this case, trying to do this on my own is going to cost an arm and a leg. Great video. Just want to warn others who attempt of the possible pitfalls... Any guesses as to what could be causing the misfire/rough idle?
Glad you liked it. Did you lift the air plenum to change the cross over pipe? I’m thinking it may be an air leak or possibly a plug that got knocked loose. I would double check all your connections as a first step. If you have a code reader that would also help point you in the correct direction ( misfire or a lean condition on several cylinders= air leak) Best of luck. Report back on what the mechanic finds.
Changed water pump, crossover pipe, radiator, lines, heater manifold pipe. I thought I had bled it out fairly good. Ran it great for about 4 days. Now it reads "low coolant" yet coolant level is now above the fill line. What gives?
Great video mate. Very helpful. Just did my water pump and crossover pipe, not together though. 4 days after I replaced the WP, I noticed it was losing coolant. You could see coolant collecting down in the valley. Sure enough the o rings had failed on the crossover pipe where it bolts to the head lol. Just at 100K miles.
hey Fred my name is Jeff I replace my water pump but I didn't do that crossover pipe and now I got a leak they're pretty bad to where it's not holding anything was it hard to do that and do I have to take my water pump out to do that
@@kennethellis5774 I watched your video Keith on the water pump I did that that worked out really good .the only thing I did not replace because I didn't see it in your video but you did suggest to do it was that crossover pipe.I was sort of waiting to see you do that on video all I remember is you said 5 bolts on each side of the intake and that was it so what I'm wondering is, does the intake have to come off completely ?do I have take the water pump off again?
Jeff Johnson I don’t believe you have to take the water pump off completely just take off the upper coolant hoses. You will have to tip up the intake and re-bleed the cooling system. The cross over pipe has two bolts that hold it in place.
Thanks for the video, I am changing my wife’s water pump on her 2017 RR Sport and the plastic piece behind the o ring that I assume acts as a stiffener for the metal oil cooler line broke, is there any way I can find a part number on that?
Hey I have an lr4 and I was changing my crossover manifold and a piece broke not sure what to call it but it is the y shaped connector that was sitting still hooked up by the air intake the whole video the main hose goes into the coolant reservoir
Thanks for the video. I have changed mine in the past but think my pump may be bad again. I had terrible trouble getting the oil cooler tube back connected without leaks in that area. Any tricks or pointers you could offer to get it all seated correctly?
So i started to have a coolant leak but it only leaks when i turn on the AC which seems weird if the AC is not on it doesn’t leak coolant seems abnormal but what would you suggest replacing there ?
When putting on the new plastic pipe that goes behind the water pump, do you have to rotate it a certain way to get it on? Or do you simply push it in?
That little elbow valve that connects to the water pump is leaking on my rover, after I change the water pump, is there a way to connect that valve? Cause I was having trouble connecting and disconnecting it, thanks
Yes you should be able to connect the elbow after it’s installed. If your elbow is leaking I would check it for cracks before installing it back, you may need to used the updated parts. On disconnecting it: you need to push the sleeve the elbow fits in back with one hand and pull on the elbow with the other.
Great Video! The bottom of my thermostat has a connector to the hose from the bottom of that radiator. I can't seem to get that separated from the thermostat housing. Do you have any advice?
Drew Lum I remember having this issue. The thermostat has a snap ring that connects it from the bottom to the radiator hose . The radiator hose has a plastic piece with a quick disconnect on it and those two ( hose end and thermostat) plastic sections were stuck together. What I did was remove below the connector by undoing the tension clamp and twisting the whole housing out of the radiator hose. When I finally got it removed, I took the whole assembly to my vise and slowly worked the two pieces apart. Just remember you need to reinstall the bottom of the quick disconnect onto your new thermostat, so be careful with that piece!
@@kennethellis5774 - I'm working through this project right now. I undid the manifold and only lifted it up so that I could replace the crossover tube. Hopefully, this approach will work. I decided to buy the entire lower radiator hose assembly (p/n LR013684). I'll report back once it's running again! You've made a great video that looks really easy, but I'd say it's a bit harder than medium. This thread is a really good companion to your video - tinyurl.com/y9lbzq33
KPK 102084 I did not replace the gasket. Each intake runner has its own o-ring that is reusable. I haven’t had any issues with reusing them in the 10k miles I’ve put in my lr4 since replacing my water pump.
How did it go? Was it indeed the water pump that was leaking? My RRS (2011) has a small pop of coolant in the same spot but from what I’ve seen it may not be the water pump. Really don’t want to take it completely apart in case it’s not the pump or not the y pipe
No not bad at all. We had literally only been driving for less than 1 mile from a cold start when the overheat message came on. Pulled over and that was that. Once it was back at the house, I started it to drive it 10ft into the garage and shut it down. Coolant tank still has coolant, yet there was a puddle on the garage floor this morning.
HalfMoon I’m sure you are good then. I’d replace the rear cross over pipe as well, I found out after I did this video that they do crack. I’m going to do mine soon.
Kenneth Ellis great thank you. I actually got the pump out already working around the fan (it was tight getting it out, but it barely made it), right now I took a break as I’m wrestling with that rubber o ring stuck on the pipe that the plastic tube slides over. Happy Thanksgiving!
The secret is replace the WP as well the crossover plastic pipe located under the Air intake manifold and the little pipe it goes in the back of the WP as he did in the video ,Factory recommended to also replace the other plastic pipe In the back of the manifold witch it goes from head to head ,but I didn't did it ,now is LR4 is working fine,BTW do not use after market parts for Land rover it will be to risky I install non LR WP but the diameter of the oil cooling pipe it was different ,use LR parts only.
Guessing those parts changed after 2011 because of the high failure rate. ~ 100k miles and everything plastic begins to leak as of it wasn’t planned well or it actually was planned well as not LR owners don’t work on their vehicles themselves....
Very helpful video. I removed the fan cover - super simple and really opened up more space. Also, while you’re doing this job should go ahead and do the serpentine belt. Once fan cover is off, slip the belt over and around front of fan (no need to take it off). Here’s a great video on the belt: ua-cam.com/video/WtM1Bafxb5o/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Thanks, this video helped me out. The small black fitting on the front of the water pump snapped off while I was doing the job and I lost a day waiting on the replacement part. Others might want to consider buying LR012636 as it will likely snap for you too.. The crossover pipe (LR018275) was definitely the cause of my slow leak. It was in bad shape.
Thank you! You’ll want to have LR011038 and LR05530 just in case yours break. One is the cap on the cross flow pipe you must reuse. The other is the bleed screw on the rear passenger side. They are prone to break so I’d replace either way as preventative maintenance. I replaced and bought additional as spares. Also, make sure to fully seat the cross flow pipe when installing by pressing down hard until you hear and feel it bottom out.
Kenneth, great video. I wish I had found this before I attempted repair as it might have prevented some serious headache. I am pretty handy and just replaced the transmission pan last week with no issue. This fix however has given me a run for my money... Literally. I must have repeated this repair six times and still have a leak somewhere. Can't figure it out for the life of me. In the process, this last time (attempt #6), I buttoned everything up and now I am getting a crazy rough idle and check engine light and it STILL has a minor water leak. I've got it headed over to my local indy to get it looked at now. I would say this repair is not for the faint of heart...it's relatively easy to get everything in where it goes, and no tight squeezes, but man, getting everything seated properly...
I have a feeling in this case, trying to do this on my own is going to cost an arm and a leg. Great video. Just want to warn others who attempt of the possible pitfalls...
Any guesses as to what could be causing the misfire/rough idle?
Glad you liked it. Did you lift the air plenum to change the cross over pipe? I’m thinking it may be an air leak or possibly a plug that got knocked loose.
I would double check all your connections as a first step. If you have a code reader that would also help point you in the correct direction ( misfire or a lean condition on several cylinders= air leak)
Best of luck. Report back on what the mechanic finds.
Awesome video, thanks - about to dig into the wife's Range Rover Sport and this is definitely helpful to watch first.
Great video this was very helpful.
Changed water pump, crossover pipe, radiator, lines, heater manifold pipe. I thought I had bled it out fairly good. Ran it great for about 4 days. Now it reads "low coolant" yet coolant level is now above the fill line. What gives?
I’d look at the coolant level sensor. They commonly go bad.
Great video mate. Very helpful. Just did my water pump and crossover pipe, not together though. 4 days after I replaced the WP, I noticed it was losing coolant. You could see coolant collecting down in the valley. Sure enough the o rings had failed on the crossover pipe where it bolts to the head lol. Just at 100K miles.
Glad you liked it, check back soon for more videos.
hey Fred my name is Jeff I replace my water pump but I didn't do that crossover pipe and now I got a leak they're pretty bad to where it's not holding anything was it hard to do that and do I have to take my water pump out to do that
@@kennethellis5774 I watched your video Keith on the water pump I did that that worked out really good .the only thing I did not replace because I didn't see it in your video but you did suggest to do it was that crossover pipe.I was sort of waiting to see you do that on video all I remember is you said 5 bolts on each side of the intake and that was it so what I'm wondering is, does the intake have to come off completely ?do I have take the water pump off again?
Jeff Johnson I don’t believe you have to take the water pump off completely just take off the upper coolant hoses. You will have to tip up the intake and re-bleed the cooling system. The cross over pipe has two bolts that hold it in place.
There is another video on UA-cam called “Land Rover LR4 Coolant Leak Repair” that shows the crossover pipe well.
And it looks like all this can be done without removing the fan?
Thanks for the video, I am changing my wife’s water pump on her 2017 RR Sport and the plastic piece behind the o ring that I assume acts as a stiffener for the metal oil cooler line broke, is there any way I can find a part number on that?
Hey I have an lr4 and I was changing my crossover manifold and a piece broke not sure what to call it but it is the y shaped connector that was sitting still hooked up by the air intake the whole video the main hose goes into the coolant reservoir
send me a picture of the broken part at Rocketcityrovers@gmail.com . That will give me a better idea of what you are talking about.
Do you have to remove the tensioner for just the water pump or did you remove it to do the thermostat etc?
Thanks for the video. I have changed mine in the past but think my pump may be bad again. I had terrible trouble getting the oil cooler tube back connected without leaks in that area. Any tricks or pointers you could offer to get it all seated correctly?
I put the oil cooler tube with the O-ring on the water pump then lined it up with the oil cooler tube on the engine. Hope that helps!
So i started to have a coolant leak but it only leaks when i turn on the AC which seems weird if the AC is not on it doesn’t leak coolant seems abnormal but what would you suggest replacing there ?
Thank you for the video. I wanted to see the coolant bleeding procedure.
I believe I linked the FSM procedure (in the description) on how to bleed the coolant system, its really not too bad
Great video. Thank you for making this video. It will def be a help for a lot of people.
When putting on the new plastic pipe that goes behind the water pump, do you have to rotate it a certain way to get it on? Or do you simply push it in?
Did you ever find the answer out? I was wondering the same.
Great Video! If I may ask... what is the Torque spec on the belt tensioner?
That little elbow valve that connects to the water pump is leaking on my rover, after I change the water pump, is there a way to connect that valve? Cause I was having trouble connecting and disconnecting it, thanks
Yes you should be able to connect the elbow after it’s installed. If your elbow is leaking I would check it for cracks before installing it back, you may need to used the updated parts. On disconnecting it: you need to push the sleeve the elbow fits in back with one hand and pull on the elbow with the other.
@@kennethellis5774 do you have a part number for the elbow piece that breaks?
You will need both of these parts, due to a redesign of the parts.
Thermostat to Engine Cooling Hose- LR049989
Throttle Coolant Hose- LR045238
@@kennethellis5774 just so you know you can buy the old elbow peice on Amazon for $18
Daniel Howard hey post a link so other people can find it too. Thanks!
Great Video! The bottom of my thermostat has a connector to the hose from the bottom of that radiator. I can't seem to get that separated from the thermostat housing. Do you have any advice?
Drew Lum I remember having this issue. The thermostat has a snap ring that connects it from the bottom to the radiator hose . The radiator hose has a plastic piece with a quick disconnect on it and those two ( hose end and thermostat) plastic sections were stuck together.
What I did was remove below the connector by undoing the tension clamp and twisting the whole housing out of the radiator hose.
When I finally got it removed, I took the whole assembly to my vise and slowly worked the two pieces apart. Just remember you need to reinstall the bottom of the quick disconnect onto your new thermostat, so be careful with that piece!
@@kennethellis5774 - I'm working through this project right now. I undid the manifold and only lifted it up so that I could replace the crossover tube. Hopefully, this approach will work. I decided to buy the entire lower radiator hose assembly (p/n LR013684). I'll report back once it's running again! You've made a great video that looks really easy, but I'd say it's a bit harder than medium. This thread is a really good companion to your video - tinyurl.com/y9lbzq33
Is there any benefit from the updated cooling hoses? I have still have the original as well. Thank you!
I’m sure some engineer at Land Rover has some reason. But I didn’t see any reason to change it out if it wasn’t broken.
My thoughts as well. I’ll change it out when it fails. Thanks for your insight and for the video!
You are the man!
Thank you!
How did you remove the high pressure fuel pipe and what tool did you use?
Mike Morgan I just used a wrench. It’s a flair fitting with a collar that unscrews. You will have a little fuel spill out so have a rag handy.
Did you have to replace manifold gaskets?
KPK 102084 I did not replace the gasket. Each intake runner has its own o-ring that is reusable. I haven’t had any issues with reusing them in the 10k miles I’ve put in my lr4 since replacing my water pump.
Just wanted to say thank you, I just picked up a 2012 LR4 and she has a water leak, so I will be doing this very soon.
How did it go? Was it indeed the water pump that was leaking? My RRS (2011) has a small pop of coolant in the same spot but from what I’ve seen it may not be the water pump. Really don’t want to take it completely apart in case it’s not the pump or not the y pipe
@@superchile9640 the crossover split at the seam, engine locked up. Disassembly in progress. Wish me luck, but I think the engine is toast.
Rear crossover?
Damn, that sucks
My ram is in the shop so I am babying my RRS until it gets back
Did you replace the intake manifold gaskets? If so, do you have part numbers?
I didn’t replace them but the part number is LR010881. Haven’t had an issue in the 15k miles since this video
@@kennethellis5774 appreciate the reply!
Thanks Kenneth
There is also a pipe under the intake that was leaking when I did my water pump
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
Thanks for the instructional video, good job and it was the best I was able to find.
Thanks glad it helped!
Do you have the exact part numbers for both the front and rear crossover pipes? Thanks.
Rear crossover Heater manifold LR109402 for V8 and LR109401 for V6
Front crossover is lr018275
Whats the part number for the crossover pipe
LRO18275. Should be the part that I used for the crossover pipe.
Did it ever overheat?
Ours got hot. Pulled over and you could hear the coolant under the intake. I assume it is that crossover pipe. Trailered it to the house. Yay me!
HalfMoon nope. If you had a really bad overheat, warped heads happen easily.
No not bad at all. We had literally only been driving for less than 1 mile from a cold start when the overheat message came on. Pulled over and that was that. Once it was back at the house, I started it to drive it 10ft into the garage and shut it down. Coolant tank still has coolant, yet there was a puddle on the garage floor this morning.
HalfMoon I’m sure you are good then. I’d replace the rear cross over pipe as well, I found out after I did this video that they do crack. I’m going to do mine soon.
Ok. Thank you
I wanted to see you undo the plastic elbow. It has me worried - 2016 F-Type.
I've installed 3 pumps. On mine. Non stop leaking from dead center of thr waterpump
Thank you so much for this video
You are so welcome!
Thanks for posting
Did you purchase your parts from LR or 3rd party supplier?
I got most of the parts from Atlantic British. Also amazon has a large selection of genuine Land Rover parts needed for this project.
Kenneth Ellis Thank you
Thanks for the video..subbed!!
hey there, GREAT video. I’m just planning on taking this job on this weekend. Did you remove the engine cooling fan or work around it?
I worked around it, I didn’t want to mess with removing the fan. So it possible to do the water pump without removing the fan
Kenneth Ellis great thank you. I actually got the pump out already working around the fan (it was tight getting it out, but it barely made it), right now I took a break as I’m wrestling with that rubber o ring stuck on the pipe that the plastic tube slides over. Happy Thanksgiving!
Happy Thanksgiving! Good luck!
Damn..I wish I watched this,.......took mine to a shop and they guy removed the fan and broke a part...had to sit in the shop for 4 more days
The secret is replace the WP as well the crossover plastic pipe located under the Air intake manifold and the little pipe it goes in the back of the WP as he did in the video ,Factory recommended to also replace the other plastic pipe In the back of the manifold witch it goes from head to head ,but I didn't did it ,now is LR4 is working fine,BTW do not use after market parts for Land rover it will be to risky I install non LR WP but the diameter of the oil cooling pipe it was different ,use LR parts only.
Guessing those parts changed after 2011 because of the high failure rate. ~ 100k miles and everything plastic begins to leak as of it wasn’t planned well or it actually was planned well as not LR owners don’t work on their vehicles themselves....
Super Chile that’s the truth.
Ah, bummer, would love to have seen the manifold removed and the crossover pipe replaced.
Brandon Scott I’ll see if I can add that to another video. I’m looking to replace the rear cross over pipe as preventative maintenance.
@@kennethellis5774 Sweet! That'd be awesome. I have crossover pipes to replace soon preventatively too.
Better safe than sorry and ruin a 10k engine!
Very helpful video.
I removed the fan cover - super simple and really opened up more space.
Also, while you’re doing this job should go ahead and do the serpentine belt. Once fan cover is off, slip the belt over and around front of fan (no need to take it off).
Here’s a great video on the belt:
ua-cam.com/video/WtM1Bafxb5o/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
HELLO KENNETH, I AM SERIOUSLY CONSIDERING BUYING A 2012 LR4 HSE HOPEFULLY LUX, WILL I HAVE TO DEAL WITH HIGH COST REPAIRS ? 🫖
Yes.