Insulation for Van Building - How to Insulate a Van with Layers
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- Опубліковано 27 бер 2021
- This is what I have found to be the most effective when insulating a van, but I'm sure there are many others ways.
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I get so much info from van lifers as a sailboat cruiser. Please add cruisers as well to the family! Thanks for a great channel.
I was curious, so I checked the weight.
KilMat = 2.44 kg / 1 sq.m
Rattle Trap = 2.25 kg / 1 sq.m
Frost King = .79 kg / 1 sq.m
Whaaaat? Haters? Do you really have them?
You are the most lovable man on UA-cam, thank you for what you do.
Thank you!! Yes I have plenty lol
Sick video. Taking notes! For those of us who can’t afford a builder you are a saint. Thank you 🙏🏼
I did good per your recommendations and I’ve been in my van 3 yrs with no problems …dyi style too. Kil mat sound deadening then wool over it with some 3m foam board and secured that all with reflectix. I foiled taped most but left spaces so it could breath mostly at the top. I couldn’t be happier in the heat or cold. I use my fan, window guards or skylight to ventilate in both temperatures. I’d do the same in my next build too. Thanks for the tips!
If you are looking for the best R value, polyiso is going to be more than twice that of thinsolate. The best pro that I have heard of for thinsolate is for guarding against condensation - keeping it off the metal to prevent corrosion and preventing mold between the insulation and interior finish material. Mold often occurs between two vapor barriers unless there is ventilation between those vapor barriers or enough ventilation preventing vapor from reaching there in the first place. Both polyiso and bubble foil insulation (reflectix) are like vapor barriers so probably not a good idea to have them back to back in my opinion. Another place condensation will form is between gaps in poorly installed batt type insulations. You should probably be careful when insulating hard to reach areas for that reason. I don’t know enough about the drip holes or access rats would have to comment on that. I would like to hear more about that, though. I like the idea of kilmat where needed, polyiso in the large cavities up to the rib, 1/2 inch of polyiso on the ribs overlapping the cavity polyiso a little. This serves as a thermal break and also ventilation space between wall sheathing and insulation. I would carefully fill all gaps and inner rib spaces with Great Stuff (not in the ventilation areas , though). I would also use a breathable wall sheathing and finish and have really good ventilation throughout the van especially in high moisture vapor areas. I’m not sure polyiso will work best for the floor because of the smaller compressive strength compared to XPS, so maybe XPS insulation on the floors would be better?
Awesome, full Dice Clay at 14:50. Thanks for the great info man!
The deadening mat first is definitely good. Something I would like to point out is that any insulation that will be sealed in should be applied in very dry conditions. I refuse to buy fiberglass insulation; they call it "the new asbestos" for good reason. 2 part spray foam is great if you use a professional application/mixing system, but you have to let it outgas for ages before it is safe to use (6 months plus). There is a product that I have used in buildings, that I believe would be great in a mobile rig. It is called "Prodex Total 10M". It has a high R value, does not collapse like bubble/foil in excessive temps, radiant/moisture barrier, insulating and can be affixed to just about anything with the right adhesive. I have no affiliation; just think it is a great product that people should be aware of. I won't try to post a link, but it is easily searchable, if anyone is interested. The build I am currently working on will be insulated with this stuff over a layer of Dynamat type stuff. Happy roads start with comfy temps. :)
Read all the reviews on Prodex before you use it in a van. Not good overall. Also thanks for pointing out the safety advice about the drying agent hazards in some spray foams. bad stuff to breathe. I had to let my low Voc spray cure for two weeks in the Florida hot summer sun before I would work in my latest van.
sorry but the whole "sealing it in" idea sounds counter productive. No matter how hard you try moisture will find its way in there. The only way to combat moisture is with ventilation.
For floors use XPS foam board which is non compressive versus the polyiso (EPS) which compresses and squeaks.
All wool absorbs moisture. Thinsulate does not. Can spray foam is not a good idea anywhere. It also absorbs moisture and can over expand and warp and buckle the metal. Best is to coat the metal walls and floor with very low VOC bedliner or a paint that coats the metal, I think it’s called Gator Skin. This works best to”help” eliminate moisture transfer problems. Anytime you spray a coating product on a surface, beware of the chemical drying agent in the product you are using. Ventilate, and use a proper mask. If you can smell it, it is still present, so don’t get inside an enclosed area, until the drying agent is finished doing its job. I have had to learn these things the hard way. Good luck and injoy your project.
You will never be able to totally eliminate moisture unless you run fans and some type of dehumidifer in your metal van. I run a dehumidifier for 4 hours every few months. It helps quite a bit.So far these things has worked quite well. Keep in mind, I am almost never in sub 40 degree weather, so I have no Idea what that is like to deal with.
Thank you for your helpful, informative and generally fun videos!
Short and to the point, thank you
That Frost King looks like what we call mechanical insulation. Great stuff, available in a few thicknesses, used all over.
Thanks for helping us DIYers!
Just how it worked out because I ran out of Havelock wool before I started my ceiling, but I have poly iso-foam board in floor & ceiling and havelock wool double layered on the sides. As for the ceiling getting direct sunlight it also depends on how much solar is installed and if you have a deck on your rack that shades the van roof.
Uk but watch your channel all time as soon we are having van conversion built and this has given me more idea about the insulation
Lucky for us our son in law has air con / insulation company so will be able to get really good insulation of him
Awesome breakdown. Plenty of good info, thanks!
Good information Jarrod. I do insulate what I build ,be it a van or camper .But I read so many comments that people find for cold the heaters are too big . Be it a Buddy or Chinese diesel they have to run them on low with a window open or just a few minutes every hour . This causes problems for the heater they say . I am coming to the conclusion for cold we may be better to go lite on insulation and let the heater work a bit. I understand this will use more fuel maybe . But say a diesel heater or gas ,so many people say they use it on low then have to run it on high to burn off carbon before turning it off. So they are probably using as much fuel as a medium burn . The van I am doing now will have a wood stove ,should be fun . So maybe when deciding on insulation we need to think about what heater we will be using . Stay healthy and safe all.
Great information! Eventually want to get a van and do a build so this goes in my save box. I had already been thinking about using wool so this seals the deal and now I know what to combine it with. Thanks Jarrod!
Thanks Jarrod! Super helpful info!
There are many ways to do van insulation but I've found this to work best for me and others I've worked with. Check out more playlists below as well as my other channel, plus a link for Havelock Wool:
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Good vid Jarrod. I agree with a layered approach for the reasons you cited. My personal choices for my DIY build that I'm just starting: Thermal Break = Tinted light color Raptor Liner (fine spray) on the exterior roof and black for aesthetics on the lower sides; Durable 3M Wrap for graphics upper sides. Lizard Skin interior with ceramic spray on over that. Added Sound mitigation = Siless VIBRO 50 mil (similar to Kilmat) over that at around 35% coverage with Guteauto foam/foil mat added in other areas for added sound deadening and reflecting radiant heat (doors, etc.). I personally chose Thinsulate over wool for the ceiling and walls because it is hydrophobic. My priority is performance over "natural", but I get the philosophical debate and issues with 3M manufacturing facilities. I don't want my insulation absorbing any potential condensate if possible. Easier to keep interior humidity lower with breathing walls / ceiling design and venting the moisture out v. trapping it. (No "moisture barrier"; not effective long-term in a vehicle.) My final step is sourcing 1" structural foam core panels for the floor v. plywood to act as the floor structure and insulator all in one. Also trying to keep the weight down since I'm adding a bit with the other products. Fun project! Cheers!
So for your floors you just put 1" foam board in between each floor studs for bottom insulation, BUT YOU DIDNT PUT PLYWOOD SHEETS BACK DOWN OVERTOP OF THE FOAM BOARD AND FLOOR STUDS? I imagine the foam board and floor studs were flush on the floor and then what did you just lay vinyl plank or wood flooring planks? I'm just thinking without putting back down plywood overtime or even immediately when walking on the floor with plywood it would bend, buckle or even snap the thin piece holding the flooring planks together?
I get wanting to cut. Down on weight but wouldn't you have to have plywood onto of the foam board to add rigidity and prevent the compaction of the foam board over time?
Love the advice! Would you happen to have a video out on that layered process?
Wow you are very informative thank you for this video helped me figure out the floor for my car!!
Great info, definitely saves me time researching, I have one yr for my build so I have time to get what works better. I don't want any propane so I purchased a 750W 2 burner stovetop and 1150W 120V 60hz toaster/airfryer, and 115v arctic king refrig/freezercand a Rvlovent fan what's your suggestions on power
Good info Jarrod!
Excellent advice.
I think one crucial aspect you didn't cover was vehicle climate use. Well, that and the differences between keeping it cooling it off/keeping it cool, heating it up, keeping it warm. First, first: Where you intend to use the vehicle is critical in how/much you insulate it. Keeping it warm is not necessarily easier than keeping it cool or vice versa. It all depends on HOW the vehicle will be used. I HAD to have an AC in Texas but would never consider one in Oregon. Likewise, I could go until mid afternoon (shaded) in Oregon before I had to open up or use the dash AC to cool off a bit (Oregon) but in Texas the AC had to be on continuously, midmorning to late evening. Most vehicles become ovens when they are at max temp (depending on climate) and it is not practical to cool them down again even with an AC. With an AC you're simply cooling the air while the vehicle slowly reaches ambient temp. If your viewers are from southern climes it can be more efficient to use PolyIso removable panels (esp. in passenger vans) for keeping the heat in/out and adjusting as needed throughout the day/season. A friend (on a limited budget) wanted to add a ceiling fan last summer and I advised her to make slider/rear screens first (she boondocks) and add fan/house battery later. And, it can take significantly longer to cool down a vehicle at night in proportion to the insulated R-value you have involved. One method I've not tried is building a 'safe room' (sorta like you did with your AC coverage) used only in highest/lowest temp hours. Mr. Plywood (Portland) carried about 6 thicknesses of PolyIso and the thickest was 3". With that a person could certainly maximize heating/cooling, minimize energy use ala they were willing to forfeit the space required. I used PolyIso professionally and it is certainly easy to screw things up but if a person is willing to practice carefully, be patient and use a couple of techniques they can avoid messes, waste and any misshapen body panels. I always leave about a 3/8" condensation gap on the walls since the moisture will not cause rust if it is able to evaporate daily. Your show is one of a kind and I've been in the space for 12 years so can appreciate your contributions to the community!
Thanks Huang! Just to clarify the 3/8"condensation gap is between the PolyIso and the "wall"?
@@franciscohestnes You're welcome! No, I leave ~3/8" at the bottom for any moisture to collect and evaporate. If not, it could find more crevices to hide in and cause rust.
@HuangXingQing at the bottom of the wall insulation (before it touches the floor)? Or between the metal of the side panels of the van and the insulation?
@@Imminentgg Yes, ~1/4 to 3/8" at the bottom. If you have more than that filling and not draining ya got bigger issues than long term rust concerns. It's nigh impossible to get PolyIso boards to lay flat against the vertical walls but air makes a good insulator anyway. I try to cut my panels so they are flush against the verticals and leave 1/4" around the top/sides which I fill with PolyIso spray foam. If you just use the spray to fill the same space as the board it will bond it to the top and sides which eliminates squeaks and a host of other possibilities. Too much and you'll have the deformation to which Jarod referenced. A couple other tricks which come to mind: If using off the shelf spray cans to fill the gaps ensure you shake them frequently. If not, the Polyol and Isocyanurate won't mix completely and you'll waste money, time, likely make a mess when it drips and have a brown, gooey consistency. I use different colors of those small Post-it squares to differentiate which pass I'm on when spraying an entire cabin. First pass gets, say, red post its while it's curing. While watching those carefully by constantly scanning the entire area, I put 'Red' at the top of my ledger then begin the second pass (same spots) but when I finish that pass, add a blue beside them. As I go I may miss a spot completely or realize I missed it on the previous pass and the color I'm on (noted on my ledger) tells me how long a given spot has been curing and how many applications it has had. This method minimizes excessive applications and the possibles messes. If you have plenty of tissues and paper handy you can wipe away any excessive as it oozes out. Have a large garbage can ready cause you don't want the foam to touch ANYthing. I've been using PI off and on since '87 and have ruined a few things, cosmetically. The trick is to not get over confident but to patiently wait for the 'cake to rise'. I can keep several passes cooking at once but there's a limit to what you can do with the time you have between 'cakes'.
@@HuangXingQing It’s Jarrod with two “R’s
I actually just bought the same laptop! I love it!
What about the vapour barrier? What would you put on top of the insulation?
Vans and houses are constructed differently and have different challenges. I don't believe you need one and it's not relevant for a van. I agree with Jarrod and really like his recommendations.
Very informative video! Thank you for putting that out there for us diyers! ❤️
I’m converting a toy hauler into a travel trailer and I would like to use polyiso board due to the higher R value, cost, and ease of installation, but the voc’s from it (and the adhesive I’d have to use on the ceiling and floors) are making me hesitant because I have allergic reactions. I’m considering Havelock Wool on the walls for this reason but can’t use that on the floors and ceiling, so I’m still left to find a solution to the voc problem.
I already plan to use AFM Safe Coat Safe Seal on the plywood walls to seal off the voc’s from the plywood adhesive (formaldehyde), and so I’m wondering if that would also seal off the voc’s of anything I used in between the metal walls of the trailer and the sealed plywood? Or would I need to spray the AFM Safe Coat Safe Seal directly onto the polyiso board, as well as the plywood?
I also want to make sure that I leave the weeping holes unobstructed so that I don’t end up with a water/mold problem…so my second question is, if I used polyiso board everywhere (floor, ceiling, walls) and glued something like wood paint stir sticks onto the metal walls to create an air gap between the metal and polyiso board, would that work? If not, what would you suggest?
Hey Jarrod, that was an awesome video!! I am just now getting started on my van and I know this video came out over a year ago, but I was hoping you could possibly answer my question. I am looking to "close up" a window in my van. I was wondering what Insulation you'd suggest between the wood interior of the van and the window factoring in the condensation? thanks :)
Another Great Informative Video!
Do you know of a front windshield 0 tint thermal Shield? I remember seeing an add a few years back of some company in Texas but I have not been able to find them since.
This sounds like opinions based on anecdotal evidence. Even the Advanced RV video on insulation concludes “we don’t really know.” Why not? Would be easy enough to do a controlled comparison test and document the results - a controlled experiment that produced actual data - what a novel idea. As for Havelock I went to their website and saw a lot of dogmatic statements (Havelock wool is the best insulation ever, never ever use a vapor barrier, etc), but no data, no comparison tests.
Ive seen a number of people building out micro campers from ProMaster Cities or Transit Connects. Some builds are pretty cool considering the size of those vehicles. But what a lot of them use as "insulation" is simply Reflectix glued to the walls. Obviously using it like that is not great for actual insulation.
But then you're left with the problem that if you put proper insulation on the floor and walls and ceilings you lose inches all around that really matter in such a small vehicle.
So generally speaking, what would be a way to decently insulate those micro vans without losing too much space?
So sorry but I have a few questions:
How would you insulate around a window and still have it look nice? (same with maxxx air fan)
Would you install a subfloor and sub walls directly on top of the insulation or would you do the framing and electricity/plumbing first?
Is havelock wool anti-mold? I have some concerns about evaporated water condensing into or behind my insulation and possibly molding or even rusting the metal of the van.
Would you install horizontal studs into the ribs of the van and then insulate behind it?
I feel like I have more questions but I cań think rn lol. Thank you for your time!!!
Hi Jarred! Great video! Thank you for the great info! Trying to decide on which insulation to go. What are your thoughts on denim insulation?
Personally I'm not a fan. In vans there will be some moisture and I feel the denim doesn't do well with that compared to the others I like
One of your best info videos yet!! Thanks. My new transit will be delivered June 10 and then will start the build. I am stressing over how to attach solar panels to the roof. Can you do a video on that and how to do it cheaply? Love your stuff, been a follower for nearly 4 years.
Is there any advantages/disadvantages to using thinsulate on the roof vs foam board (pylo)?
Hello Jarrod,
Have you seen any builds that use window screen to hold the insulation in place? Seems like it would be a great way to hold the wool in place, especially if I were building my van at a slow pace.
Good thought, I'd be interested to know too.
I mean you could do that. Wouldn't hurt. I think string or taping up a barrier like ez cool is easier but screen would work sure
Hi Jarod
Would you put kilmat on the floor then a layer of thinsulate on top of that then the factory floor on top of that? (2021 sprinter)
My thought has always been towards aerogel insulation. Hydrophobic, fire resistant (amazingly fire resistant), and most importantly r values of 10-12 per inch. My tiny home future plans use this and spray cork (also flame resistant and sound deadening) plus a staggered stud approach that I call a "cage system" to further the thermal break. "Cage system" because the actual construction of walls would resemble an old-school lion cage.
Too bad even blanket aerosol is $50 per square foot at 1" thick.... You can get it 5 mil thick for $11 per square foot though...
What kind of insulating foam would you recommend for keeping the cold in the van, I have a 2022 sprinter. I am planning to install a cooler in the back.
🤔
I would recommend showing samples of each product (non-builders aren’t familiar with all the trade names). Many insulation manufactures provide small samples of their product …… a perfect training aid.
A second issue that should be mentioned is fire retardancy / flammability. Certified aircraft insulation sets the standards in this area.
The third issue is thermodynamic: reflecting incident radiant energy, insulation against conduction, and sealing against convection. It starts with the outside color …… compare the surface temperature of white and black.
Jerod, you mentioned mold, a very important topic in vans, trailers, and boats. One can’t eliminate the moisture from exhalation, but fossil heating, cooking, water leaks are all controllable sources. Surfaces are either hospitable or inhospitable to mold. Ventilation, dehumidification (direct, chemical, or AC), as well as surface disinfectants are controls. Access to hidden areas where mold thrives are factors, as is air filtration.
All this is too much, of course, to cover in a short video, but “the devil is always in the details”. If one designs well and qualifies (QA/QC/EQ) each component the the completed build will be far less work to maintain.
Thanks for covering this most important subject. Passive insulation is part of the foundation of a quality build. Once the build is complete is requires a significant and costly tear-down to gain access to a poorly conceived insulation paradigm.
If executed properly insulation will reduce the BTU load on the subsequent HVAC and hence required battery capacity (both active and costly systems). 😎
I'm looking to do my van. I travel for work, and in doing so I'm in hot and cold climates alot. I want to use a radiant barrier paint on the inside then polyiso board w/foil and then cap it all with frostking. Will this work or do you suggest something else? 🤔
Hi. So i live in Malaysia. Its tropical climate with basically just rain and shine and temp ranges from about 22C (70F) to about 40C (105F). How would you suggest i insulate my campervan? Basically i’m looking at panel rattle, noise pollution and radiant heat. Tks for your videos
Im leaning towards a 40oz synthetic carpet pad and then cover it with rug just floor. Any advice whether this would be enough. I live on the south shore of Massachusetts so winter can get bad.
Great video!!!
I'm thinking van life would be great for travel in a couple years. Have been watching tons of videos to figure out what would make a great build for Me! Have learned what works for others might not work for me.
I won't be doing a DIY, will want a pro build! Like you said, not everyone watching is a diy'er. I'm watching because I will only have one chance to get the best build I can get! I think being a little knowledgeable will be better for me and my builder!
Thank you for sharing!
Hi jarrod, i will be useing kilmat and wool but What about a vaper barrier i have been seeing/hearing the van will need one ??
Hi in regarding to insulation, in Australia we have Earthwool not Havelock wool, the only difference is that Earthwool is non-hygroscopic whereas Havelock does absorb moisture and im not sure what is best but it makes sense if Wool can absorb condensation and release it later.I guess with Earthwool i would have to create some gaps for the water to evaporate?
I am in the process of converting a bus, i thought to kilmat all side walls, ceilings, floor etc everywhere! Then maybe earthwool then thinsulate for the side wools. And just polyiso boards for ceilings and floor as you mentioned. Anyone think this is too much? Since earthwool dont absorb moisture, i wonder if this is too many layers. I want to create some gaps for the condensation to dry out.
Can i skip Thinsulate? I cant even get them in australia, its really expensive and also shipping aswell.
This was an awesome video. Insulation is always such a debatable subject. I still plan on installing the Nomadik special 😁 It makes me really happy that a lot of what you spoke about I will be using 😛🤙🏼
My plan is to use 3M thinsilate on ceilings, side walls and use havelock wool in small area space.
Is there still a coupon code for the wool? I can’t seem to find it.
Thanks for the great info. I may of missed it but why not mineral/ rock wool? Everything I’m seeing says it’s fine???
When using killmat, are you covering every square inch of the interior? Then apply 2nd layer of Duck Insulation on top?
Interesting. What about Noico as a sound dender and Noico Red for insulation then add Thinsulate?
If you where insulating a box trailer, would you just do frost king or foam board since it it square inside?
Hey how would I use 1/8 inch foam board , single bubble reflectix and 3/4 inch R Tech foam borad to insulate van. I have looked at several videos and I'm still confused.
Hello Jarrod, Have you had any experience with Lizard Skin? I was thinking of starting my insulation / sound deadening process with 2 thin coats of Lizard Skin on the ceiling, floor and wall while also spread the headliner and under floor mat in the cab area primarily as a thermal break and secondarily as a partially sound deadener. I will then adding Killmat at the all large the metal panel surfaces that have the MB metal cross bracing widely spaced (walls & ceiling). I see Amazon sells their own branded sound deadener sheets, have you or any or of the readers to these comments have any experience or have compared them to other similar products?
Where I really like the idea of using sheep’s wool, I live in the Pacific NW where humidity is high for 6-9 months per year. I wonder if wool in such a prolonged high humidity areas would have long enough a periods of time to release the captured humidity back in to the air. How is 3M Thinsikate compared to wool when it comes to humidity?
Also my experience with such products like Linex or vinyl wrap is that is best used as a means of protect the exterior vehicle paint surfaces from scratches. A better choice regarding exterior van surface selection is to purchase a van with a lighter color or even silver/grey. This will better help reduce the absorption the heat generated by the Sun’s rays.
One other thing I plan on my build into my my van is the use acrylic double pane windows installed behind the ‘B’ pillars on the driver’s side, sliding door and both Flarespace windows. As do you, I also believe heating and cooling management is best tackled by a layered approach and therefore all windows will have insulated covering and as well will the privacy drape that will separate the cab area when not in use.
Nv2500 can i use a roll of attic fiber glass insulation shove inside wall holes is it bad to breath
Great info, so thankful for!! One question: could you put frost king on the floor and poly iso foam board and then vinyl flooring or do you HAVE to put a chip board and then vinyl?
Absolutely can do that. Looking back I wish I did that
Hello form Atlanta Georgia
Jarrod, love the video but other than "not mineral wool!" you didn't mention why not. I've seen a lot of van builds using Rockwool/Roxul and I've seen others reacting with horror to that but they don't seem to mention specifics of why not.
Can you elaborate on your 1st or 2nd hand experiences with it, limitations, and why not to use it?
Cheers.
Mineral wool is synthetic and there's a lot of toxic fibers used in it. It's not good to breath or skin contact. Everyone reacts differently. Some believe it's worse than fiberglass insulation
What's wrong with Armacell ArmaFlex XG for the walls and ceilings and a FRP PU Foam Panel (form Refrigerated Trucks) for the floor?
So where do I find the discount code for the wool insulation?
question please do you need to vent heat and humidity out of the space under the insulation, like a house... could the heat buccal a roof if its not vented in some way... but you never see anyone venting a project....?
Clear and good info. I'm a 25 yr van- living gold prospector who is a master researcher!
I was wondering about your thoughts on Lizarskin insulation and noise reduction (liquids, pastes, goo)?
I'm considering it for a new van build. Any thoughts? Aloha
Lizard skin is good but it's hard to apply and also expensive. It creates that same thermal break like Kilmat does. I wouldn't just use Lizard skin but maybe that with more insulation if you really want to go that route
Ourkaravan used Lizardskin on the inside upper areas of his van. You might be able to ask him about what he thinks after using his van a few years now. ua-cam.com/users/asimba2videos
I was reminded of your question about LIzardskin when I came across this Scott Adamson video on it. Read comment section too: ua-cam.com/video/rDyrVJ7xCik/v-deo.html
Good vid. Have you seen any testing on Kilmat vs Frost King for sound deadening?
I have not but I'm sure someone has done it out there
I read that using sound deadener on the sides of your van can cause rippling. Do you have any info? Also, thank you for the info. I purchased my havelock wool last week. 6 week wait on shipment, but I have plenty of other projects to get started on while I wait.
Haven't heard of Kilmat doing that but I have seen spray foam do that to vans
Great info Jarrod! Which van would you recommend for conversion and van life? Thank you for all your help!!
Either foam board, havelock wool, or thinsulate. Any of those will be good. Havelock is the easiest to stuff
@@JarrodTocci Got that from your great lesson. What Van do you recommend: Ford Transit, Promaster, Sprinter or other? Thank you for your time, wisdom and dedication!!!
Easy sound deadner all flat areas useing 50 percent per panel then on the roof use melamine foam that's hydrophobic on the walls use thinsulate over the sound deadner on the floor use closed cell foam as a decoupler then a layer of mass loaded vinyl then another decoupler of closed cell foam done
Would the wool work as the air gap that you need for the reflectix?
So then it would be :
Sound barrier
Wool
Relectix
Final wall covering
I have read thinsulate can be considered air space not sure on wool but probably similar
Awhile ago you did a vid on SPOD system and then there was another one like SPOD but different. I can not find that video. Please drop the name, please.
Hey jarrod! ✋🏻
I am going to insulate a 8 by 16 box truck box. and a house needs venting in the attic , shouldn't this need the same... but I dont see people doing this in videos... ?
If professionals had the time to take my money I wouldn’t need this. Lol thank you! #DIY #professionalsaretoobusyfornewclients I’ve been looking for 3 years,so I just built my van myself.
What would you suggest for someone on no budget, aka the cheapest but best for someone who barely has money for vehicle?? Most likely shuttle.. NYC Aspiring Nomad
Spaceship.. it saves lots of energy and every electric heated saunas have it all around. Sure you need ventilation, but haven't seen any build without
making sure you have airflow is the most important part. Having a thermal barrier is important. Airtight is a problem thats when condensation builds up and water problems insue. Make sure they have some way to vent air. Its a tin can like a pop can if its sealed condensation builds up. You need air flow These people that think you should seal it like a submarine are going to have problems. I see it way to often. Use your head.
Is the Frost King he discusses how you eliminate the condensation issue?
This was very very helpful .. First time to the channel ... sounds like keen credentials ... I have an older 1990 G20 van motorhome ... It has a 2 foot tall high roof and I tore our the ceiling that was falling apart. .... The rig had NO insulation. There are some 6" wide support ribs built into the fiberglass pour. So I am thinking of how to insulate. I will screw in wood planks as a support for whatever I will put as a ceiling over the insulation. I have some rockwool, I have some of that thin kill matt type of thing too. I am thinking of sheet foam board, pink stuff, or the insulation that has the metal foil like stuff on one side... I assume faced inward.
Hey Jarrod. Do you need a vapour barrier between the insulation and the wall panels ?
No vapor barrier is needed with any products I talked about. Like I said at the top that insulating a van is different then a House
@@JarrodTocci Thank ya sir
Let's assume you have a "Sprinter type" van, with strut channel side rails bolted to the roof, then crossbars holding solar, lights, etc.
I've been wondering about the possibility of a flexible, durable, stick down insulation for the *outside* of the roof that could fit under the solar.
Any ideas?
Would seem logical, since there's a 1" unused gap to the solar and it would be hidden by the side rails.
I was thinking of heavy rubber of some form, but it must be impervious to water, weather, sun.
Maybe even a "gym floor" style material?
(Every inch inside is important for me, 6'4")
Humble Road recently said he was sending his latest van to get the undercoat sprayed to help with insulation because that build was for a tall client so not much interior room for insulation. I imagine that would be for more cold insulation than heat, so depends where you live as to what your priorities are. I'd be careful adding large volume heavy material to the roof as it may increase center of gravity enough to make the vehicle unstable. Just a thought.
my humble opinion is that you risk destroying your gas mileage. would also be worried about how much the solar panels destroy your gas mallige. it might have been cheaper and more efficient to use a little diesel generator.
i heard that the wool can fall down off the wall and wind up near the floor from all the vibration etc on the road .
what product (as natural) to use How MUCH to use to absolutely avoid this from happening? what a waste of money and time if this happens!
Do you have any information to insulate underslung tanks?
does frost king deaden sound?
Yes even though that's not it's intention. Every product named is technically a sound deadener. People use foam board when making a sound room
I insulated my van with foam board and refletix, there’s two layers of insulation and still very hot inside. I can put my hands on the ceiling and feel it burning. Now that I’m replacing the panels im taking the opportunity to add a third layer. I’m kind lost. Any tips for me, family? 😊 I’m doing everything by myself.
Because vans are a conductor no matter what it’s hard to be perfect. The refletix is pointless unless there’s an air gap. I like to create a thermal break by using Frost King or Kilmat against the metal to break up heat or cold. Then I use something like thinsulate and maybe even 1/2” foam board at the end but that will give you a solid insulation
Thank you Jarrod! I appreciate so much you sharing your knowledge. What do you suggest to insulate the wheelwells?
Definitely Killnat, for starters.
Kilmat but also depends what is going around the wheelwell. You can build a small box and insulate that with the other products. You can use thinsulte or wool after Kilmat to help. For example my 2 wheelwells were water and power so I threw insulation around them to help as much as I could
Omg u were totally flirting .. with Havelock Wool
😂🤣 lol
Where are the links to coupon codes 🤷🏻♀️
I would suggest using vacuum wall insulation they have all shapes and sizes all different kinds kinds for the floor so they can take a heavy loads you can put stuff on it different types for the ceiling walls you name it they've got it there's a special website out there I forgot the name I apologize but if you look it up you'll eventually find it they have one inch and 2 in vacuum wall insulation they even go fatter than that but you don't want to go thicker than that you don't want to lose too much space in your van but a vacuum wall insulation one inch of that will give you an hour value of the best insulation on the market would have to be probably two and a half feet thick to get what you can get with one inch of a vacuum wall insulation I forgot the r value it's very high very very high good luck but this is what I would suggest and I don't even build Vans for a living I'm just a guy that knows a lot about physics and vacuum wall insulation there's no air in it therefore the heat can't transfer through very well and it will basically turn your van into the best cooler you can make.
Do you have a link for 3M insulation?
I can't find the discount code for Havelock wool - could you please repost it?
It’s not a discount unfortunately, sorry
I agree with everything except bubble wrap should not be used. It acts as vapor barrier trapping in moisture. There are all kinds of weep holes and gaps in metal body of van that allows moisture in even if you do 100% sealing of bubble wrap
OK questions 🥁🤨 frost king on floor (do you need to roll like kill mat ?) then ISO insul board ( I'm building low roof ) I need every centimeter 🤕 WHAT do I put on that for hard surface (I'll be rolling around in an office chair)
I want ceiling & floor warm as possible 🥶 ????? ? ? ? ?
What about Kill Mat & Frost King
on ceiling then ISO board maybe thinner ??????? My VAN NISSAN
not alot smooth surface for solid install of Kill Mat (walls) ~~~ square here & there
I have a lot of Kill Mat & ordering
Frost King ~~~~ 🤗
Also; can only find one place for
"NISSAN" swivel for passenger seat only ~~ don't have for drivers seat 🤬 also need retractable
Running board ::::::::🤗
Is there any issue with rodents and wool? I love everything about Havelock wool except the idea of rodents getting in and making condos in my walls
Bill Nye style !? 🤔👍
I'm wondering, which laptop do you have? It looks familiar 🤔
Msi stealth. It's time for a new one though
You CAN insulate a duck, if you wanted to. Js
Polyiso has has almost zero insulation value below 50F (10C) so if your going to be using your van in colder conditions, you want EPS in the floor. Or a combination of EPS next to the steel floor and Polyiso on top.
I guess that's why I said to use layers
@@JarrodTocci Please dont think i was disagreeing with anything you said. I thought this video about insulation is brilliant. I just mentioned Polyiso doesn't really work well below 50F (10C) because the small gas bubbles contract in cold temperatures. Then you could also argue that if your heating the inside of the van, you are heating the polyiso, which would maintain the most of its insulation properties. You hit the nail on the head when you say multiple layers of different materials.
Who carries killmat?