Great info. Just getting into 350 legend. You stated .355 and also .357 diam bullets. Others have stated winchester factory bullets are .355 and that the .357 may cause over pressures. Any thots on this?
Great question. I got my info straight from the developers at Winchester. They said you can load .357" bullets as long as you reduce the powder charge by about 10% compared to similarly sized .355" bullets. Most manufacturers choose .355", but at least one load I've tested was .357" from the factory. My own .357" loads have worked fine.
as A 25 plus year reloader I wanted to take a moment to say... THANK YOU... it is becoming harder and harder to find reloading supplies locally. I am sure this is because we are not getting new loaders as fast as we are loosing the folks who got people like me into it. you are passing the torch to a new generation of people who will get their first taste of loading from a video not some old timer at the local shop. you and others like you will be the saving grace of our past time... again Thank You.
I think a lot of the reason why people don't reload to much anymore is because ammo is cheaper and people are buying more guns and more wide variety of calibers than they used to. And probably sending less rounds down range. 10 to 15 years ago I shot at least 200 rounds every 2 weeks. Now I'm lucky to shoot 100 a month.
Great video. Studying the 350 myself. Dead deer this year with one one. Funny how Winchester even on the box says a .357 bullet but they are actually a .355 bullet. Look at the SAAMI spec to see how they do it. No straight wall cartridge is a cylinder. You have to have a slight taper for extraction.
I just wanted to congratulate you on such a fine made video.. Sound was great as well is the picture & the focus.. Very well narrated as well. One of the best I've viewed.
Thank you for taking the time to put this up. I was a little on the fence about purchasing a 350 Legend upper for my AR, after watching your video I went ahead and got everything ordered. Having to take the extra step to bell the case is not that big a deal for me. Being able to use the wide variety of pistol projectiles was important to me, and seeing you be able to do this was important. Again thank you for taking the time to do this video.
Don't use a roll crimp and even the Lee FCD is questionable. The 350 Legend headspaces off the case mouth, that's why it's sticking in the chamber. With a roll crimp the extractor most times is the only thing holding the case in place. The case mouth MUST be taper crimped on a solid part of the bullet, a normal 9mm crimp die does the trick. Also, Instead of the Hornady lube try a red bottle of ISO HEET gas line antifreeze (100% Isopropyl Alcohol) mixed with 1 oz. of liquid lanolin. Dump your brass into a plastic bag, pump in few shots in using a sprayer and you won't believe how slick your brass resizes. Thank Dillon Precision for that one, they list their ingredients on the bottles of their lube.
First video of yours I’ve watched and I do like your content. One thing I don’t like, and you’re not alone, is your weak bench that allows your press to tilt. Put a steel plate under it or make your bench stronger, please! Not only will it make your videos more appealing but reloading is much more rewarding when your press isn’t moving. Only channel I’ve seen that does it right is Ultimate Reloader. My bench has a 2 3/4” hardwood maple top with a Rockchucker, Forester Co-ax and a Dillon 550 all mounted to the edge with zero flex. Not sure where you’re from but if you’re driving distance to Pennsylvania, come to my place and we’ll build you a bench top that you’ll think came off a battleship!
@@SocialRegressive Or go to a salvage yard or welding shop and see about a 12x16x1/2 or something like that, steel plate. It’s a little more work drilling holes but really worth it.
To,remove lube from cases place a paper towel on an old cloth towel spray with degreaser from an auto parts store and role,the cases in the paper ; job done. Tossing them in the tumbler contaminates the inside and may influence ignition etc:
Gascheck, I just re-wash the cases after sizing in my Frankford rotary liquid tumbler with lemishine and Dawn mix. Doesn't hurt the brass if not in a hurry for the extra cleaning step. Inside of cases are cleaner too, but probably doesn't matter.
Just got Ruger American camo with muzzle break in 350 Legend and was able to order 200 cases from Brownel's and dies from Midway's. I'm going to put some load with 357 cal bullets but first have to decide on powder. Not many components are available so it's pita to reload nowadays. Thanks for introductory data
I buy pull down powder from “American reloading “. It’s actually pulled from non fired American military carts. I recently got 8lbs of w896 which is w748 load data is exactly as blc2 . Is a cooler burning ball powder. Anyway they’ll have all sorts at different times. It u have to buy 8 lbs a time but no haz fee usually 25% off and they have all sorts of pulled projectiles I try to source everything possible from them.
Love this stuff! Love your channel and all that you do! I have reloaded all my Ammo for many years. The only Ammo I buy is rimfire, some pistol and a box for barrel break-in for all of my rifles before my load development process. I have recently built an AR in a 350 legend and have started the load development process. I usually buy hornady or forester dies but this time I bought the Lee pacesetter dies for this caliber mainly because I had a hard time finding the other. I have never had any problems in the past with a bullet seater but this Lee die has me shaking my head! I elected to use the FTX 165gr hornady bullet and while setting up the seater die, It bottoms out to max seating debt while using the FTX bullet. I was wondering if you have reloaded this bullet and had any similar problems with the lee seater die. I took the collet/stem out of the seater and inserted the bullet and it seams to seat extremely far down the bullet. I even took a factory loaded Winchester power point and set the die up to duplicate the factory round and it almost was max out as well for that factory round. Your thoughts?
Your saying the bullet is pressed inside to deep? That what I’m thinking your saying. If that’s the deal then simply back out your whole die . Unscrew the whole seating die until it will only set the bullet the desired depth. I assume the problem is the spire point is causing clearance problems . U could probably turn the center of the stem out hollow and round it so the projectiles fit higher inside but I believe u can adjust this issue out by simply backing out the whole die it doesn’t have to completely set against the holder u can make a gap. Good luck
It's basically a long pistol cartridge at very high pressures. The primary steps versus a regular pistol seems to be double checking the case length and checking the crimp. A lot of light loads have trouble feeding on AR-350Ls at the 2.00" length. I think the shorties need a different feed ramp.
This may or may not apply to the 350L (?), but, for the 450BM we've found out that it is quite important for consistent performance to have the inside surface of the case "neck" (I know...) that contacts the boolit nice and shiny clean. The 450BM needs a clean, tight "grip" on the projectile in that area for velocity/accuracy maximization.
I really appreciate your videos. Very thorough explanations. Could you do a video that shows your process step by step, one after another? I am finding myself getting lost during your thorough explanations some times. I just want to know what to do from starting with dirty brass to the finished cartridge. The more concise the better! Thanks for the great information.
To further clarify, this video seems like a video for those who already know what you’re talking about, haha. I have never reloaded before. Maybe a beginner level guide would help. Thanks!
The Social Regressive I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for your content, man. I have been shooting my savage 110 in 350 legend, it likes the Winchester power point 180 grain.
If at all possible, I like to prime and flare in the same step. One less process that way. Yeah I saw about that factory ammo he was testing, crazy stuff. I love how people think reloads are inherently dangerous / less reliable and factory ammo is some kind of magically perfect cartridge that will go bang every time and work flawlessly in their firearm with zero issues.
Agree. I've been reloading for 50 years and even today factory ammo is much better than it was but it's still very inferior to handloads. Case in point, I still shoot National Match High Power and use a M1 Garand. Why ? Because with my H4895 handloads with Hornady 150gr. FMJ it shoots to 1moa or slightly under, with any commercial ammo, even stuff specially made for Garands that same rifle holds 2.5moa. maybe slightly less on a good day. I've had the similar results on everything from 7mm/08 to 450 Bushmaster, a Ruger American that cloverleafs 1 ragged hole at 100 yards, and yes, there is a difference between reloading and handloading.
Hey man, another question. The bullet comparator from Hornady, the 14 piece set doesn’t have an insert for .355 or .357. It only has one for .358, according to the link in the description. Were you able to use the .358 insert on the bullets in this video? Or what did you use? Thanks!
Late to the party but had to scroll to see who said it. I use vernier regularly as I simply feel OCD when the dials or digital keep giving me very slightly different results. Might be meaningless error beyond the accuracy specification of the gauge but it is refreshing to be the judge and not pondering if a trailing 5 on a display is meaningful
While it is correct that the 350 Legend Head Spaces on the case mouth , that Lee collet crimp die is NOT the correct die to crimp the case mouth to the bullet. This cartridge requires a taper crimp die. Hornady make a TC die for the 350 and I believe Redding also makes one as well. Do NOT use that Lee collet crimp die, you will regret doing so. I've been loading ammo over 44 years and have learned a few things the hard way. Any cartridge that head spaces on the case mouth requires a taper crimp. If you mic a new factory round at the OD of the case mouth, you will find that it measures .002 - .003 under what the books tell you. This eliminates feed jam. Also pay close attention to your case length, it is critical. When you trim your cases , keep them about .002 above the trim length shown in you book.
COL is important for this reason when looking at reloading data. PV=nRT. The pressure data (and thus velocity) is only valid if you seat a particular bullet to a specified depth that is specified in your reloading manual. Reloading manuals do not index off the ogive. Of course you can derive the base to ogive length, but The Social Regressive is right ... it's no big deal, it's just easier and faster to measure base to ogive.
Just to be clear in my own head: Overall length determines the V(volume) in that equation? So the deeper the bullet is set into the case, the lower the volume and the higher the pressure? Eleventh grade chemistry was a long time ago. 😁
So in order to crimp the bullet, I'm required to buy an additional die from the standard set? The seater die will not crimp as is the case in other die sets?
Straight walled cases rarely grow in length.. And if they do it's normally not enough to matter .. This is a great cartridge for AR guys who want to dip a toe in the bullet casting waters..
Just bought a 350 legend AR upper! This video is so helpful, haven’t started reloading quite yet but I’ve been told that if you load a .357 in a 350 it will hurt the gun and potentially be dangerous? Also really excited to know that I can use 9mm to make some cheap target ammo
In my testing, .357" bullets worked just fine. The only issue is that they develop higher pressures more quickly than .355". Back off the powder charge a bit, and everything's OK.
Thank you for the video. Very well structured and to the point. Quick question though on using pistol bullets in the 350 legend. I also thought of saving money and going with the .357 jhp for hunting reloads at half the cost of the .355. However, according to their max velocity ratings, it is not recommended. .357 had a max of roughly 1250fps (about half of what the .355 legends are putting out). There was concerns of bullet integrity of the .357 at the legend speed due to thinner copper plating. Are you seeing any issues? Thank you for the time and keep up the great work!
just starting my 350 lg handloading/deer hunting journey. thanks for the great poractical info/insights! think i am going to start with 9mm 147gr xtp's this week for deer load here in illinois...did initial setup/tweaking of new cva scout today as first step. do you think the 147 grainers will work for basically 100 yd in use on deer as an economical hunting load...30 bucks foir factory stuff isn'my idea of economical hunting/practice!
I've loaded rifle cartridges for many years, but only loaded pistol cartridges a couple times. I've always wondered why you need to flare a pistol case and not a 3006 case. If the case is straight on a pistol cartridge, and the neck is straight on a 3006 case, what's the difference?
The only problem with using the ogive for bullet depth is lack of data. Where is the "correct" reading published? Loading manuals typically give O/A length, not ogive length. Years ago I got the caliper adapter, but then I was lost.
On next try I was still having to force the trimmer pilot into the case mouth to get it to trim. The pilot was slightly expanding the case mouth. That being the case, I think a better solution is to run the cases through your expander die before trimming. That seemed to work much better. Great video. Keep up the good work.
My Lee Dies wont size it enough near the case head for an empty case to fit inside my 350 Legend Lyman Case Gauge L20.. Ive got the Died screwed down and it cams over a lot.Tried 3 different shell holders including the one LEE sent with the dies.Im not a fan of Lee Dies..Mostly use Redding,LE Wilson and Whidden. Have a few Hornady Match.Any Idea what is the deal? Thanks I built this 350 Legend AR15 for Hogs..Its okay.It can't hold a candle to my 450 Bushmaster though on accuracy. My 450 Bushmaster is way more accurate than my 350 Legend . I was surprised at just how accurate my 450BM is.
Kinda new to your very informative channel. I want a 350 but I’ll be 70 next birthday. I load many calibers but have been mainly concentrating on 6.8 SPC II. Do you load it. Got a bunch of Speer 90 gr gold dots from RMR at a good price and they shoot reasonably well in both my uppers
I actually got bored this week and I'm working on some 7mm08 reloads 15 of them that will take a few days to get loaded Noticed I had some nice nickle plate once fired brass I could use and figured I wanted some more of them sierra 160 grain hollow points for hunting I like so much I load to 2550-2600 fps Now i need 308 dies and some bullets as that brass is stacking up also
@@SocialRegressiveIMR4350, H4350, H380, H414, BL-C(2) H4198 H4895 for now Using the IMR 4350 for the 7mm08 loads and the BL-C(2) for the 180 grain 308 and H4198 for the lighter loads 110-135 grain 308 bullets for about a month now and they work very good This must have been when you tube turned off my notifications back then and never knew you even replied until I got this notice about Frank Evans
@@frankevans6584 No kidding as I had the Remington 700 BDL in 7mm mag and it was my favorite until I researched the 7mm08 and found it was superior in many ways, Not as much powder for a round going only 200 fps slower than a 7mm mag sold me plus super accurate and hard hitting long range ballistics I could only hope I could have afforded a Remington 700 BDL in 7mm08 as they were selling for like $1100 then the guy showed me the Browning A-Bolt for $500 and I was sold on cheap LOL Naw actually I did a lot or research on that Browning rifle also and it was from Japan with a twist no one else would know unless they had been to Japan like I had been in the Navy They are forced by a WW2 law to sell anything they export to the US for half the price the Japanese people living in Japan can buy one for which would be right at $1,100 if I lived in Japan Not only that the quality of the Browning was 10 times better than any Remington I looked at and knowing the Japanese people like I did I knew they would settle for no less than perfect when they made a samurai sword and would do the same with their rifles Not many people ever hear about that but they told me all about it when I was in Japan while in the Navy I got a camera on base for like $50 but the same camera out on the vendor streets of Japan cost $125-$150 so I asked, what's the deal there and they told me all about it A dag gum rum and coke at a bar cost me $8 when I was in Japan in 1978 but I got lucky and won $500 from the slot machines so that helped some with the fun expenses while I was there LOL
Is there a 350 legend die or can you use the 9mm as I was told. Trying to find the real answers, have reloaded for years but 350 is new to me. Thanks for all the tips and tricks.
A 9mm die will only size about half the case, and you'll have a devil of a time getting lengths right. Watch out for an expanding base. I would personally recommend buying a real 350 legend die set. Fewer explosions in your future.
Good morning and thank you from las vegas. Quick question, I have never reloaded and I kind of want to go this rabbit hole. What bullet diameter can be used? The minimum and the max? Is it .354-357 Also what powder would be suitable for any diameter?
Howdy, Leikurz! You can load anything from .354 to .357, but be careful with the .357 bullets. Reduce those powder charges by an extra 10%. 15% if you crimp. H110 will work for any bullet in this range. Lil Gun will work for the mid-to-heavy bullets (124-grain+). Overall I recommend H110.
I don't know where you live but here in Iowa we can get 350 for relatively cheap 10 or 12 bucks a box for plinking ammo. It's every where and I'm thinking about switching over from 450 next deer season.
After sizing I like to run the debur tool. Getting rid of that sharp 90 degree edge. Usually eliminates having to use the bevel. those Hornady square tails is the only drawback. Not much of a round edge on those
Maybe. There's a trick with that bullet; if it spins too fast it tears itself apart. I can still load it up at low pressures and speeds, but it won't cycle my action.
Have you ever considered setting you caliper to 0 at the desired length, then using it to get an over/under measurement? Is that how you checked the case length? Watching on my phone; it's difficult to see the measurements.
Do you have any other recommendations for powder other than hodgen 110, from my understanding this is a magnum pistol powder in Australia we haven't been able to get any powder of this category for some time. We have access to rifle powders only any suggestions would be most welcome
Unfortunately, this round is pretty particular, and only a small handful of powders will work. And they're all magnum pistol powders. H110 is best, Lil Gun is second best, and Accurate No7 will work for a few projectiles.
Gordons Reloading Tool 2021.2030-NIGHTLY Parametric powder search by generic tolerance synthesis -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- File : noname.grtload Caliber : .350 Legend Projectile : Hornady, Interlock, 0.355, 170.00 grain, 0.9035 in Seating depth : 0.3535 in Case : 39.40 grain H2O, 1.7098 in Cartridge length: 2.2598 in Initial pressure: 3626 psi -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Tolerance-Window : Target Min. Max. Unit maximum pressure : 55000 53130 56870 psi Muzzle velocity : - - - ft/s Barrel Time general (BT) : - - - ms Bullet Lead Time 10% pmax (BLT): - - - ms Load ratio : 96.08 90 103 % burnt propellant : - - - % -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- A T T E N T I O N - A T T E N T I O N - A T T E N T I O N -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Depending on the setting of the limiting tolerance windows, the charges can exceed the specified maximum pressures, or have no meaningful, or even a dangerous value. Please check a load prior to use for plausibility. The order of the list depends on the composition of the powder list. -------------------------------------------------------------------------------- propellant mass load ratio pmax v0 E0 burnt eff. BT BLT recoil grain % psi ft/s ft-lb % % ms ms ft-lb ADI AR 2205 (2020-04-30) 26.43 97.2 55005 2212.3 1847 100.0 37.1 0.8804 0.8578 - Accurate 5744 (2020-03-07) 26.36 100.3 54982 2223.1 1865 85.0 38.1 0.8734 0.8522 - Vihtavuori N110 (2020-03-11) 24.64 96.0 55002 2259.0 1926 100.0 41.4 0.8770 0.8473 - Somchem S265 (2019-09) 26.40 102.9 54723 2272.6 1949 92.8 37.8 0.8889 0.8541 - Lovex D060-01 (2021-04-18) 26.23 99.8 54951 2274.4 1952 100.0 39.4 0.8624 0.8440 - Shooters World Buffalo Rifle (D060-01) (2021-04-18) 26.23 99.8 54951 2274.4 1952 100.0 39.4 0.8624 0.8440 - IMR 4227 (2020-02-28) 27.26 100.3 54975 2277.7 1958 96.7 37.4 0.8638 0.8443 - Hodgdon H110 (2020-04-20) 27.36 92.3 54953 2320.6 2033 100.0 38.7 0.8608 0.8386 - Hodgdon Lil Gun (2021-04-10) 26.30 ▼89.7 56271 2411.0 2194 100.0 41.6 0.8653 0.8257 - ERROR! (invalid/impossible synthesis)
I have the same setup (RCBS Rock Chucker & Lee dies) for reloading 350 legend, and other rifle calibers. I've come across the issue of the case mouthes getting crushed when using the powder through expander die on .350 Legend brass. This would happen even when if I were applying very minimal flare, so I learned that you can skip this process and hand feed the bullets as you're running your case through the seater die which works perfectly fine. Have you ever come across this issue? Just curious.
@@SocialRegressive This year will be my first time using a .350 Legend for deer season after normally using a .450 Bushmaster (a bit overkill in my opinion). Have you had the opportunity to use this on deer? If so, what type of results did you receive?
Someone should introduce similar idea with 50bmg. It should be around 18.5mm hunk of metal that it would shoot out then! Also while babbling again I would also say someone should make a 9mm boat tail, to try maxing out the range with this casing. If it pushes to 500 yards I would say it should be pretty viable option then ever before!
You try the 18.5mm first. I'll watch. 😬 The boat-tail is a fine idea. I've tried the 147-grain 9mm XTP, and it has a boat-tail. Unfortunately it also doesn't feed in my rifle.
Good morning Mr. I hope you are doing well. Quick question. I have a good friend of mine that will reload my brass. I plan to start with 350. Does the h110 powder work well with 350 legend and 223/556 and also 50 beowulf? I went to a gun show and got and got 38 cal 125gr xtp from hornady .357. I remember you said that I would have to load about 10/15% less because of the tight tolerance. I also got 22cal 50grv-max from hornady for my 223/556. Will the h110 be good to use for these loads?
Great question. H110 is the best overall powder for 350 legend, and it works with 50 Beowulf, but it would probably blow your 223 rifle apart. You need a much slower powder. Thankfully you have a lot to choose from: accurate 2230, 2520, mr2000, Ramshot TAC, Varget, and a host of others.
Thank you so much for your guidance. In your opinion which one you you suggest. I have quite a few "tools" that I wanto use mostly for long distance. My 223 wylde be my go to defense and hunting rifle. Even though I would like to reach 400/500 yards. Realistically I will stay at 250 to 350.
@@1971boss realistically speaking none of the three cartridges you mention are good for long range shooting. While it is possible none of those 3 are good options. As for hunting the 50 beowulf will kill anything you want inside of its range limitations. I personally use a handgun for defense. No need in killing an innocent neighbor.
4 роки тому+1
I recently acquired a 350 legend AR15 upper. For hog hunting.
THANKS for a great video: it leads me to my issue- Using 1x fired Winchester brass I use the same die set as you are (cleaned) & same case lube. When I use the full length sizing die I take the additional step of doing the "plunk test" into a cleaned Lyman case length/headspace gauge and 0 of them "plunk" and only 1 of 10 can be gently pushed below the measuring spot to "pass". I checked the gauge with the same unfired brass and all 3 "plunked". I have even tried the die at about 3/4 turn when it recommends 1/4-1/3 turn, same result. Do I have a bad full sizing die or any other ideas please? THANKS!
It sounds like a bad die, but just to be sure you might try running into the die a little farther. Check with a bullet, too. A .355" bullet shouldn't fit in the mouth if you are just pushing with your fingers. Maybe only barely start to go in. If it's tight or doesn't fit, the issue may be farther down your case, like a slightly bulged web. Measure the web of a formed case and new case and see if the diameters match. A little extra diameter may not hurt, and should chamber OK, but if you see a pronounced doughnut on the outside or feel a ring on the inside, that case is getting close to a case head separation. Gotta throw it out. In the event that your case web is too large to chamber, you can use a 350 Legend small-base die. I think Lyman makes one. Good luck to you, Dave. I hope it's an easy fix.
@@SocialRegressive I appreciate you taking the time to answer & the info given. .355 bullet wouldn't go in but wanted to. Once I expanded it about 1/8-1/4 " into the case...bullet fit as it should. Will remeasure and compare as you suggest. Hard to believe factory cases would be bad after just 1 original firing, but maybe! I also went in as far as 1.5 turns instead of the 1/4-1/3 turn recommendation and had same failure. I'll chamber some and see before either ditching or using as is. 1 side note: I find it very peculiar that Lee die set doesn't include the crimping die, but yet the 6.5 Creedmoor does and it's not even "required". Maybe marketing...LOL
Just a picky use of a term you used in referring to the Lee Press on the right side of your bench. You referred to the Lee Press as a "Progressive Press". A Progressive Press is defined as one that "produces one round of ammunition for each pull of the lever (once all of the stations are populated). What you have is a Lee Turret Press, defined as producing one round of ammo as the turret rites through all of the positions of the turret. This could be three, four or five stations in the turret. I have used a 4-station Lee Turret Press for two years since I started reloading. I've also used a Dillon 550 Progressive Press, but I feel more in control of the reloading process without making foolish mistakes.
The cartridge can technically handle any bullet diameters from .355 up to .357. That's how they are able to claim a 357 diameter in states where that is the minimum bullet diameter. But you're right: most manufactured ammo is .355.
According to Winchester, CMMG, and my own testing, as long as the bore diameter is to the SAAMI specs, you can load anything from .354-.357. HOWEVER, if you load .357, then back off your powder charges an extra 10%. If you don't you'll get into overpressures pretty quickly.
It's obvious that you prefer and endorse RCBS. Lee has been my go to for most of the same bench items. Honestly I didn't catch anything new in your "straight wall" peculiarities of the 350. Good info for starter's. Measuring from the ogive made my '06' wicked accurate, I'm surprised you mentioned that first since it's the second to last thing you do before the crimp that you seem sketchy about, which I also found in the past to be very important for accuracy and sealing the cartridge from moisture.
@@SocialRegressive thank you, I pretty sure you answered my question, but you’re the only person I see loading 9mm and .357 I don’t really see anyone else loading .357. Where do you get load data for that? Edit: this is an unrelated question to the one above
@@SocialRegressive what do you think of the insanely high pressures that it operates at? do you think that will make it impossible for it to have a relatively decent barrel life
I never reload rounds. Been looking into it more and more. When I watch a video like this. It gives lots of info. But I also see $$$$$$ on every item used in it. Honestly is it even worth it unless your a daily shooter blasting few 100 rounds a week? Looking at buying reloading brass primers and bullets + all the tools it just seems impractical even for my 350L and 458 socom
I look at it as an investment into the future. I firmly believe they will tax ammo to the point it no longer affordable before they succeed in banning firearms. I do not save money, but I shoot more, and I continue to gather the supplies I need to do so for years to come.
Great info. Just getting into 350 legend. You stated .355 and also .357 diam bullets. Others have stated winchester factory bullets are .355 and that the .357 may cause over pressures. Any thots on this?
Great question. I got my info straight from the developers at Winchester. They said you can load .357" bullets as long as you reduce the powder charge by about 10% compared to similarly sized .355" bullets. Most manufacturers choose .355", but at least one load I've tested was .357" from the factory. My own .357" loads have worked fine.
@@SocialRegressive ty again for that info
as A 25 plus year reloader I wanted to take a moment to say... THANK YOU... it is becoming harder and harder to find reloading supplies locally. I am sure this is because we are not getting new loaders as fast as we are loosing the folks who got people like me into it. you are passing the torch to a new generation of people who will get their first taste of loading from a video not some old timer at the local shop. you and others like you will be the saving grace of our past time... again Thank You.
I think a lot of the reason why people don't reload to much anymore is because ammo is cheaper and people are buying more guns and more wide variety of calibers than they used to. And probably sending less rounds down range. 10 to 15 years ago I shot at least 200 rounds every 2 weeks. Now I'm lucky to shoot 100 a month.
Take that back ammo is more expensive. Easier to find.
26 here. It's good to know that there are some people our age reloading.
What do you load?
Went back and watched the previous videos. Great information, thank you
Nice and thorough "how-to". I had some issues with over pressure and thanks to your info, I will double check couple of things.
Great video. Studying the 350 myself. Dead deer this year with one one. Funny how Winchester even on the box says a .357 bullet but they are actually a .355 bullet. Look at the SAAMI spec to see how they do it. No straight wall cartridge is a cylinder. You have to have a slight taper for extraction.
Absolutely great video! I’m a seasoned reloaded, but recently started looking at the 350 legend. Good info!
I just wanted to congratulate you on such a fine made video.. Sound was great as well is the picture & the focus.. Very well narrated as well. One of the best I've viewed.
Thank you for taking the time to put this up. I was a little on the fence about purchasing a 350 Legend upper for my AR, after watching your video I went ahead and got everything ordered. Having to take the extra step to bell the case is not that big a deal for me. Being able to use the wide variety of pistol projectiles was important to me, and seeing you be able to do this was important. Again thank you for taking the time to do this video.
Don't use a roll crimp and even the Lee FCD is questionable. The 350 Legend headspaces off the case mouth, that's why it's sticking in the chamber. With a roll crimp the extractor most times is the only thing holding the case in place. The case mouth MUST be taper crimped on a solid part of the bullet, a normal 9mm crimp die does the trick. Also, Instead of the Hornady lube try a red bottle of ISO HEET gas line antifreeze (100% Isopropyl Alcohol) mixed with 1 oz. of liquid lanolin. Dump your brass into a plastic bag, pump in few shots in using a sprayer and you won't believe how slick your brass resizes. Thank Dillon Precision for that one, they list their ingredients on the bottles of their lube.
First video of yours I’ve watched and I do like your content. One thing I don’t like, and you’re not alone, is your weak bench that allows your press to tilt. Put a steel plate under it or make your bench stronger, please! Not only will it make your videos more appealing but reloading is much more rewarding when your press isn’t moving. Only channel I’ve seen that does it right is Ultimate Reloader. My bench has a 2 3/4” hardwood maple top with a Rockchucker, Forester Co-ax and a Dillon 550 all mounted to the edge with zero flex. Not sure where you’re from but if you’re driving distance to Pennsylvania, come to my place and we’ll build you a bench top that you’ll think came off a battleship!
Thanks, Jim! I keep forgetting I need to shore it up. Time to visit Lowe's again.
@@SocialRegressive Or go to a salvage yard or welding shop and see about a 12x16x1/2 or something like that, steel plate. It’s a little more work drilling holes but really worth it.
To,remove lube from cases place a paper towel on an old cloth towel spray with degreaser from an auto parts store and role,the cases in the paper ; job done. Tossing them in the tumbler contaminates the inside and may influence ignition etc:
Gascheck, I just re-wash the cases after sizing in my Frankford rotary liquid tumbler with lemishine and Dawn mix. Doesn't hurt the brass if not in a hurry for the extra cleaning step. Inside of cases are cleaner too, but probably doesn't matter.
I recently hand loaded and shot 158gr Speer flat tip 357 bullets from my AR with no issues.
Do you have any data to share?
@@Jay78801 I rather not, but I based it on Hodgdon's reloading data.
I would really like to see this same in depth look at the 450 Bushmaster. I think that cartridge has it all over the 350 legend.
Thanks I was looking to see 355 or 357. Good information.
Just got Ruger American camo with muzzle break in 350 Legend and was able to order 200 cases from Brownel's and dies from Midway's. I'm going to put some load with 357 cal bullets but first have to decide on powder. Not many components are available so it's pita to reload nowadays. Thanks for introductory data
I buy pull down powder from “American reloading “. It’s actually pulled from non fired American military carts. I recently got 8lbs of w896 which is w748 load data is exactly as blc2 . Is a cooler burning ball powder. Anyway they’ll have all sorts at different times. It u have to buy 8 lbs a time but no haz fee usually 25% off and they have all sorts of pulled projectiles I try to source everything possible from them.
Love this stuff! Love your channel and all that you do! I have reloaded all my Ammo for many years. The only Ammo I buy is rimfire, some pistol and a box for barrel break-in for all of my rifles before my load development process. I have recently built an AR in a 350 legend and have started the load development process. I usually buy hornady or forester dies but this time I bought the Lee pacesetter dies for this caliber mainly because I had a hard time finding the other. I have never had any problems in the past with a bullet seater but this Lee die has me shaking my head! I elected to use the FTX 165gr hornady bullet and while setting up the seater die, It bottoms out to max seating debt while using the FTX bullet. I was wondering if you have reloaded this bullet and had any similar problems with the lee seater die. I took the collet/stem out of the seater and inserted the bullet and it seams to seat extremely far down the bullet. I even took a factory loaded Winchester power point and set the die up to duplicate the factory round and it almost was max out as well for that factory round. Your thoughts?
Your saying the bullet is pressed inside to deep? That what I’m thinking your saying. If that’s the deal then simply back out your whole die . Unscrew the whole seating die until it will only set the bullet the desired depth. I assume the problem is the spire point is causing clearance problems . U could probably turn the center of the stem out hollow and round it so the projectiles fit higher inside but I believe u can adjust this issue out by simply backing out the whole die it doesn’t have to completely set against the holder u can make a gap. Good luck
It's basically a long pistol cartridge at very high pressures. The primary steps versus a regular pistol seems to be double checking the case length and checking the crimp.
A lot of light loads have trouble feeding on AR-350Ls at the 2.00" length. I think the shorties need a different feed ramp.
The issue I ran into with short loads was nose-dive into the magazine wall. I plan to try it again someday with bullets seated out a little farther.
This may or may not apply to the 350L (?), but, for the 450BM we've found out that it is quite important for consistent performance to have the inside surface of the case "neck" (I know...) that contacts the boolit nice and shiny clean. The 450BM needs a clean, tight "grip" on the projectile in that area for velocity/accuracy maximization.
I really appreciate your videos. Very thorough explanations. Could you do a video that shows your process step by step, one after another? I am finding myself getting lost during your thorough explanations some times. I just want to know what to do from starting with dirty brass to the finished cartridge. The more concise the better! Thanks for the great information.
To further clarify, this video seems like a video for those who already know what you’re talking about, haha. I have never reloaded before. Maybe a beginner level guide would help. Thanks!
@@mattmuzic1 Good idea. I've had a lot of requests to do that.
The Social Regressive I would greatly appreciate it. Thanks for your content, man. I have been shooting my savage 110 in 350 legend, it likes the Winchester power point 180 grain.
Who would give this idea a thumbs down!?!?!?! Are you not a fan of stellar information???
RIGHT?!!! :D Glad you liked the video, breakin!
Probably a CNN fan
If at all possible, I like to prime and flare in the same step. One less process that way.
Yeah I saw about that factory ammo he was testing, crazy stuff. I love how people think reloads are inherently dangerous / less reliable and factory ammo is some kind of magically perfect cartridge that will go bang every time and work flawlessly in their firearm with zero issues.
Agree. I've been reloading for 50 years and even today factory ammo is much better than it was but it's still very inferior to handloads. Case in point, I still shoot National Match High Power and use a M1 Garand. Why ? Because with my H4895 handloads with Hornady 150gr. FMJ it shoots to 1moa or slightly under, with any commercial ammo, even stuff specially made for Garands that same rifle holds 2.5moa. maybe slightly less on a good day. I've had the similar results on everything from 7mm/08 to 450 Bushmaster, a Ruger American that cloverleafs 1 ragged hole at 100 yards, and yes, there is a difference between reloading and handloading.
Yep! best reason to handload! accuracy is sooo superior.@@hardball107
Excellent video. Good to learn from you
Hey man, another question. The bullet comparator from Hornady, the 14 piece set doesn’t have an insert for .355 or .357. It only has one for .358, according to the link in the description. Were you able to use the .358 insert on the bullets in this video? Or what did you use? Thanks!
It's a dial caliper. A vernier uses a flat scale that functions like a micrometer. Nit duly picked...
Whoops! Thank you for the extraction.
Late to the party but had to scroll to see who said it. I use vernier regularly as I simply feel OCD when the dials or digital keep giving me very slightly different results. Might be meaningless error beyond the accuracy specification of the gauge but it is refreshing to be the judge and not pondering if a trailing 5 on a display is meaningful
While it is correct that the 350 Legend Head Spaces on the case mouth , that Lee collet crimp die is NOT the correct die to crimp the case mouth to the bullet.
This cartridge requires a taper crimp die. Hornady make a TC die for the 350 and I believe Redding also makes one as well.
Do NOT use that Lee collet crimp die, you will regret doing so.
I've been loading ammo over 44 years and have learned a few things the hard way.
Any cartridge that head spaces on the case mouth requires a taper crimp.
If you mic a new factory round at the OD of the case mouth, you will find that it measures .002 - .003 under what the books tell you. This eliminates
feed jam.
Also pay close attention to your case length, it is critical. When you trim your cases , keep them about .002 above the trim length shown in you book.
COL is important for this reason when looking at reloading data. PV=nRT.
The pressure data (and thus velocity) is only valid if you seat a particular bullet to
a specified depth that is specified in your reloading manual. Reloading manuals do not
index off the ogive. Of course you can derive the base to ogive length, but The
Social Regressive is right ... it's no big deal, it's just easier and faster to measure base
to ogive.
Just to be clear in my own head:
Overall length determines the V(volume) in that equation? So the deeper the bullet is set into the case, the lower the volume and the higher the pressure?
Eleventh grade chemistry was a long time ago. 😁
@@GarthKlaus Yep you got it :)
@@paulwatterson5992 Thanks!
If 350 Legend brass were available, I'd be heading in this direction. Now is a bad time to launch into another new caliber rifle.
Thank you for your videos.
You might try Hodgdon 'Lil Gun powder in these...it works great in its big brother, the 450 Bushmaster.
I've used Lil Gun in 458 SOCOM, too. Beast!
Great video I think I’m just gonna stick with the 180 grain bullet
Have you tried annealing the case? Straight wall rifle cases do a better over the life of the case if you do.
A little more info on setting up these dies up on adjusting them. But over all a great video
you should think about putting a 2x4 stiffener board under your table to reduce that give in your wood tablle.It will break over time without it.
So in order to crimp the bullet, I'm required to buy an additional die from the standard set? The seater die will not crimp as is the case in other die sets?
Straight walled cases rarely grow in length.. And if they do it's normally not enough to matter .. This is a great cartridge for AR guys who want to dip a toe in the bullet casting waters..
Just bought a 350 legend AR upper! This video is so helpful, haven’t started reloading quite yet but I’ve been told that if you load a .357 in a 350 it will hurt the gun and potentially be dangerous? Also really excited to know that I can use 9mm to make some cheap target ammo
In my testing, .357" bullets worked just fine. The only issue is that they develop higher pressures more quickly than .355". Back off the powder charge a bit, and everything's OK.
You can figure out the thread pitch for the seater plug, and then turn it to correct length very quickly.
I need to pay more attention. I used to know the thread pitch.
I have a 10.5" 350 upper. Need to make a load with a faster burning powder. Lots of unburned powder is that little guy with factory loads
Any chance you could do the 100/200 Yd test on the Win Copper Impact?
great stuff thank you
Thank you for the video. Very well structured and to the point. Quick question though on using pistol bullets in the 350 legend. I also thought of saving money and going with the .357 jhp for hunting reloads at half the cost of the .355. However, according to their max velocity ratings, it is not recommended. .357 had a max of roughly 1250fps (about half of what the .355 legends are putting out). There was concerns of bullet integrity of the .357 at the legend speed due to thinner copper plating. Are you seeing any issues? Thank you for the time and keep up the great work!
So far I've had no problems with jacket separations. I think as long as it's a proper jacket - not plating - it should hold up at rifle speeds.
just starting my 350 lg handloading/deer hunting journey. thanks for the great poractical info/insights! think i am going to start with 9mm 147gr xtp's this week for deer load here in illinois...did initial setup/tweaking of new cva scout today as first step. do you think the 147 grainers will work for basically 100 yd in use on deer as an economical hunting load...30 bucks foir factory stuff isn'my idea of economical hunting/practice!
The XTPs should work fine. They may come apart a little, but there should be plenty of mass and expansion.
Awesome man!!!!
It's a fun little cartridge. Can't wait to see what some of these other bullets do.
gotta love the one shit
Know this is an older video, but any issues with a slam fire using the standard WSR primers in the CMMG?
Not in my testing. The WSR seems to have a solid cup.
Have you tried the Barnes TSX in .355?
I've loaded rifle cartridges for many years, but only loaded pistol cartridges a couple times. I've always wondered why you need to flare a pistol case and not a 3006 case. If the case is straight on a pistol cartridge, and the neck is straight on a 3006 case, what's the difference?
The only problem with using the ogive for bullet depth is lack of data. Where is the "correct" reading published? Loading manuals typically give O/A length, not ogive length. Years ago I got the caliper adapter, but then I was lost.
Ran into a problem trimming cases. The RCBS .35 pilot was too big to fit inside the case neck. Had to sand it down a bit until it fit.
Thanks for the notes! I haven't had to trim mine yet, but I'll know what to look for when I do.
On next try I was still having to force the trimmer pilot into the case mouth to get it to trim. The pilot was slightly expanding the case mouth. That being the case, I think a better solution is to run the cases through your expander die before trimming. That seemed to work much better.
Great video. Keep up the good work.
Good info
My Lee Dies wont size it enough near the case head for an empty case to fit inside my 350 Legend Lyman Case Gauge L20.. Ive got the Died screwed down and it cams over a lot.Tried 3 different shell holders including the one LEE sent with the dies.Im not a fan of Lee Dies..Mostly use Redding,LE Wilson and Whidden. Have a few Hornady Match.Any Idea what is the deal? Thanks
I built this 350 Legend AR15 for Hogs..Its okay.It can't hold a candle to my 450 Bushmaster though on accuracy. My 450 Bushmaster is way more accurate than my 350 Legend . I was surprised at just how accurate my 450BM is.
Can you use the same dies' for loading 9mm considering the bullet is the same size?
No, unfortunately you can't. The bodies are long and tapered.
Good job bud!
Kinda new to your very informative channel. I want a 350 but I’ll be 70 next birthday. I load many calibers but have been mainly concentrating on 6.8 SPC II. Do you load it. Got a bunch of Speer 90 gr gold dots from RMR at a good price and they shoot reasonably well in both my uppers
I haven't played with that cartridge. It makes sense, though. Low recoil, increased energy, decent trajectory. Sounds like a winner.
I actually got bored this week and I'm working on some 7mm08 reloads 15 of them that will take a few days to get loaded
Noticed I had some nice nickle plate once fired brass I could use and figured I wanted some more of them sierra 160 grain hollow points for hunting I like so much I load to 2550-2600 fps
Now i need 308 dies and some bullets as that brass is stacking up also
What powder are you using?
Wish that I’d never traded my Rem 700 varmint in 7mm08. Loved that cartridge.
@@SocialRegressiveIMR4350, H4350, H380, H414, BL-C(2) H4198 H4895 for now
Using the IMR 4350 for the 7mm08 loads and the BL-C(2) for the 180 grain 308 and H4198 for the lighter loads 110-135 grain 308 bullets for about a month now and they work very good
This must have been when you tube turned off my notifications back then and never knew you even replied until I got this notice about Frank Evans
@@frankevans6584 No kidding as I had the Remington 700 BDL in 7mm mag and it was my favorite until I researched the 7mm08 and found it was superior in many ways, Not as much powder for a round going only 200 fps slower than a 7mm mag sold me plus super accurate and hard hitting long range ballistics
I could only hope I could have afforded a Remington 700 BDL in 7mm08 as they were selling for like $1100 then the guy showed me the Browning A-Bolt for $500 and I was sold on cheap LOL
Naw actually I did a lot or research on that Browning rifle also and it was from Japan with a twist no one else would know unless they had been to Japan like I had been in the Navy
They are forced by a WW2 law to sell anything they export to the US for half the price the Japanese people living in Japan can buy one for which would be right at $1,100 if I lived in Japan
Not only that the quality of the Browning was 10 times better than any Remington I looked at and knowing the Japanese people like I did I knew they would settle for no less than perfect when they made a samurai sword and would do the same with their rifles
Not many people ever hear about that but they told me all about it when I was in Japan while in the Navy
I got a camera on base for like $50 but the same camera out on the vendor streets of Japan cost $125-$150 so I asked, what's the deal there and they told me all about it
A dag gum rum and coke at a bar cost me $8 when I was in Japan in 1978 but I got lucky and won $500 from the slot machines so that helped some with the fun expenses while I was there LOL
Is there a 350 legend die or can you use the 9mm as I was told. Trying to find the real answers, have reloaded for years but 350 is new to me. Thanks for all the tips and tricks.
A 9mm die will only size about half the case, and you'll have a devil of a time getting lengths right. Watch out for an expanding base. I would personally recommend buying a real 350 legend die set. Fewer explosions in your future.
What size Hornady lock-n-load insert do you use
Have you taken any deer with the Deep Curl?
Can you use magnum small pistol primers on the 350 legend reload
Not recommended. You will probably pierce them under these pressures.
Good morning and thank you from las vegas. Quick question, I have never reloaded and I kind of want to go this rabbit hole. What bullet diameter can be used?
The minimum and the max?
Is it .354-357
Also what powder would be suitable for any diameter?
Howdy, Leikurz! You can load anything from .354 to .357, but be careful with the .357 bullets. Reduce those powder charges by an extra 10%. 15% if you crimp. H110 will work for any bullet in this range. Lil Gun will work for the mid-to-heavy bullets (124-grain+). Overall I recommend H110.
C'mon people, SMASH that like button! This is some great info.
I agree! :P
I don't know where you live but here in Iowa we can get 350 for relatively cheap 10 or 12 bucks a box for plinking ammo. It's every where and I'm thinking about switching over from 450 next deer season.
After sizing I like to run the debur tool. Getting rid of that sharp 90 degree edge. Usually eliminates having to use the bevel.
those Hornady square tails is the only drawback. Not much of a round edge on those
When I buy jacketed bullets I tend to look for bevel bases. Cast is a whole other ball of wax.
Your mannerism and way of speaking reminds me alot of Matt Christiansen.
Now I gotta look him up.
Oh, yeah! I've seen a bunch of his videos. Good stuff.
Is there any chance you'll review the Lehigh Defense controlled fracturing round for 350 Legend? Specifically the 150 gr.
Maybe. There's a trick with that bullet; if it spins too fast it tears itself apart. I can still load it up at low pressures and speeds, but it won't cycle my action.
Have you ever considered setting you caliper to 0 at the desired length, then using it to get an over/under measurement? Is that how you checked the case length? Watching on my phone; it's difficult to see the measurements.
Brilliant idea. I'll do that next time. That'd be a lot easier.
Well DONE!
Clear, concise, informative, well-presented. That is appreciated, THANKS
!
Thanks, gun runner!
Do you have any other recommendations for powder other than hodgen 110, from my understanding this is a magnum pistol powder in Australia we haven't been able to get any powder of this category for some time. We have access to rifle powders only any suggestions would be most welcome
Unfortunately, this round is pretty particular, and only a small handful of powders will work. And they're all magnum pistol powders. H110 is best, Lil Gun is second best, and Accurate No7 will work for a few projectiles.
Gordons Reloading Tool 2021.2030-NIGHTLY
Parametric powder search by generic tolerance synthesis
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
File : noname.grtload
Caliber : .350 Legend
Projectile : Hornady, Interlock, 0.355, 170.00 grain, 0.9035 in
Seating depth : 0.3535 in
Case : 39.40 grain H2O, 1.7098 in
Cartridge length: 2.2598 in
Initial pressure: 3626 psi
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Tolerance-Window : Target Min. Max. Unit
maximum pressure : 55000 53130 56870 psi
Muzzle velocity : - - - ft/s
Barrel Time general (BT) : - - - ms
Bullet Lead Time 10% pmax (BLT): - - - ms
Load ratio : 96.08 90 103 %
burnt propellant : - - - %
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
A T T E N T I O N - A T T E N T I O N - A T T E N T I O N
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Depending on the setting of the limiting tolerance windows, the charges can
exceed the specified maximum pressures, or have no meaningful, or even
a dangerous value. Please check a load prior to use for plausibility.
The order of the list depends on the composition of the powder list.
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
propellant mass load ratio pmax v0 E0 burnt eff. BT BLT recoil
grain % psi ft/s ft-lb % % ms ms ft-lb
ADI AR 2205 (2020-04-30) 26.43 97.2 55005 2212.3 1847 100.0 37.1 0.8804 0.8578 -
Accurate 5744 (2020-03-07) 26.36 100.3 54982 2223.1 1865 85.0 38.1 0.8734 0.8522 -
Vihtavuori N110 (2020-03-11) 24.64 96.0 55002 2259.0 1926 100.0 41.4 0.8770 0.8473 -
Somchem S265 (2019-09) 26.40 102.9 54723 2272.6 1949 92.8 37.8 0.8889 0.8541 -
Lovex D060-01 (2021-04-18) 26.23 99.8 54951 2274.4 1952 100.0 39.4 0.8624 0.8440 -
Shooters World Buffalo Rifle (D060-01) (2021-04-18) 26.23 99.8 54951 2274.4 1952 100.0 39.4 0.8624 0.8440 -
IMR 4227 (2020-02-28) 27.26 100.3 54975 2277.7 1958 96.7 37.4 0.8638 0.8443 -
Hodgdon H110 (2020-04-20) 27.36 92.3 54953 2320.6 2033 100.0 38.7 0.8608 0.8386 -
Hodgdon Lil Gun (2021-04-10) 26.30 ▼89.7 56271 2411.0 2194 100.0 41.6 0.8653 0.8257 - ERROR! (invalid/impossible synthesis)
@@SocialRegressive Thanks for the reply? Do you think it would be possible for a slightly slower burning powder such as H4198 or equivalent to work?
Awesome video. Do you know of any lead free projectiles that are being used for the 350 legend?
Not yet, but any lead-free 9mm bullet with a decently long ogive should work. I'm about to test some Lehigh Defense.
I wish they would’ve went with .358s
Maker bullets has 3 or 4 bullet for the 350 now
I have the same setup (RCBS Rock Chucker & Lee dies) for reloading 350 legend, and other rifle calibers. I've come across the issue of the case mouthes getting crushed when using the powder through expander die on .350 Legend brass. This would happen even when if I were applying very minimal flare, so I learned that you can skip this process and hand feed the bullets as you're running your case through the seater die which works perfectly fine. Have you ever come across this issue? Just curious.
Yes; I can load a .355 bullet without needing to flare the case mouth. .357 needs the extra room.
@@SocialRegressive This year will be my first time using a .350 Legend for deer season after normally using a .450 Bushmaster (a bit overkill in my opinion). Have you had the opportunity to use this on deer? If so, what type of results did you receive?
Is it not possible to use your 357 mag dies and just buy the 350 legend crimp die?
Great question. No, that won't work. This is not a cylindrical cartridge, and it needs to be full-length sized.
Where did you get the insert for the comparitor? Are you not using a 350 legend insert?
This comparator from hornady includes inserts for common bullet diameters. Since 350 legend uses .355-.357 bullets, I use the 35 insert.
Someone should introduce similar idea with 50bmg.
It should be around 18.5mm hunk of metal that it would shoot out then!
Also while babbling again I would also say someone should make a 9mm boat tail, to try maxing out the range with this casing.
If it pushes to 500 yards I would say it should be pretty viable option then ever before!
You try the 18.5mm first. I'll watch. 😬
The boat-tail is a fine idea. I've tried the 147-grain 9mm XTP, and it has a boat-tail. Unfortunately it also doesn't feed in my rifle.
Good morning Mr.
I hope you are doing well. Quick question. I have a good friend of mine that will reload my brass. I plan to start with 350. Does the h110 powder work well with 350 legend and 223/556 and also 50 beowulf?
I went to a gun show and got and got 38 cal 125gr xtp from hornady .357.
I remember you said that I would have to load about 10/15% less because of the tight tolerance. I also got 22cal 50grv-max from hornady for my 223/556. Will the h110 be good to use for these loads?
Great question. H110 is the best overall powder for 350 legend, and it works with 50 Beowulf, but it would probably blow your 223 rifle apart. You need a much slower powder. Thankfully you have a lot to choose from: accurate 2230, 2520, mr2000, Ramshot TAC, Varget, and a host of others.
Thank you so much for your guidance. In your opinion which one you you suggest. I have quite a few "tools" that I wanto use mostly for long distance. My 223 wylde be my go to defense and hunting rifle. Even though I would like to reach 400/500 yards. Realistically I will stay at 250 to 350.
@@1971boss realistically speaking none of the three cartridges you mention are good for long range shooting. While it is possible none of those 3 are good options. As for hunting the 50 beowulf will kill anything you want inside of its range limitations. I personally use a handgun for defense. No need in killing an innocent neighbor.
I recently acquired a 350 legend AR15 upper. For hog hunting.
Once we find the right ammo, I think this will be perfect for pork.
THANKS for a great video: it leads me to my issue- Using 1x fired Winchester brass I use the same die set as you are (cleaned) & same case lube. When I use the full length sizing die I take the additional step of doing the "plunk test" into a cleaned Lyman case length/headspace gauge and 0 of them "plunk" and only 1 of 10 can be gently pushed below the measuring spot to "pass". I checked the gauge with the same unfired brass and all 3 "plunked". I have even tried the die at about 3/4 turn when it recommends 1/4-1/3 turn, same result. Do I have a bad full sizing die or any other ideas please? THANKS!
It sounds like a bad die, but just to be sure you might try running into the die a little farther. Check with a bullet, too. A .355" bullet shouldn't fit in the mouth if you are just pushing with your fingers. Maybe only barely start to go in. If it's tight or doesn't fit, the issue may be farther down your case, like a slightly bulged web. Measure the web of a formed case and new case and see if the diameters match. A little extra diameter may not hurt, and should chamber OK, but if you see a pronounced doughnut on the outside or feel a ring on the inside, that case is getting close to a case head separation. Gotta throw it out. In the event that your case web is too large to chamber, you can use a 350 Legend small-base die. I think Lyman makes one. Good luck to you, Dave. I hope it's an easy fix.
@@SocialRegressive I appreciate you taking the time to answer & the info given. .355 bullet wouldn't go in but wanted to. Once I expanded it about 1/8-1/4 " into the case...bullet fit as it should. Will remeasure and compare as you suggest. Hard to believe factory cases would be bad after just 1 original firing, but maybe! I also went in as far as 1.5 turns instead of the 1/4-1/3 turn recommendation and had same failure. I'll chamber some and see before either ditching or using as is. 1 side note: I find it very peculiar that Lee die set doesn't include the crimping die, but yet the 6.5 Creedmoor does and it's not even "required". Maybe marketing...LOL
@@davethulier3048 Lee needs to release a 4-die set with EVERYTHING. It makes sense.
When using an Ar platform with the .357 bullets the OAL is to long for the mags or the chamber tolerance are to tight for the .357?
The bore is tad small for 357, but if you reduce powder by 10-15% it's ok.
@@SocialRegressive That really sucks there are a lot more hunting options in .357 than .355 or.356 I appreciate you messaging me back though.
I thought the COAL specs were 2.125 - 2.260 inches?
Just a picky use of a term you used in referring to the Lee Press on the right side of your bench.
You referred to the Lee Press as a "Progressive Press". A Progressive Press is defined as one that "produces one round of ammunition for each pull of the lever (once all of the stations are populated). What you have is a Lee Turret Press, defined as producing one round of ammo as the turret rites through all of the positions of the turret. This could be three, four or five stations in the turret.
I have used a 4-station Lee Turret Press for two years since I started reloading. I've also used a Dillon 550 Progressive Press, but I feel more in control of the reloading process without making foolish mistakes.
This would be Great in a Lever action rifle, do you think.
Heck yes. I want a BLR in 350 Legend.
I'm gonna say no, but I would love a 357 Maximum lever gun....
I love my Marlin 336 30-30. I could see this as a lever action cartridge for sure.
If you cant crimp it the the ones in the magazine are going to get compressed. For a hunter not single loading a crimp is fairly important.
Do you have the load data available?
What size insert did you use in the comparator? 35 cal?
Yup!
Why do the manufactures use a 9 mm bullet when Win box states the bullet dia . Is 357
The cartridge can technically handle any bullet diameters from .355 up to .357. That's how they are able to claim a 357 diameter in states where that is the minimum bullet diameter. But you're right: most manufactured ammo is .355.
Have you tried any 65grn Lehigh XD's?
I have a gel test with the 90 and 118 grain xd. No 65 yet.
10:00 So can you shoot .357 dia bullets in the 350 legend? I thought you could only use .355
According to Winchester, CMMG, and my own testing, as long as the bore diameter is to the SAAMI specs, you can load anything from .354-.357. HOWEVER, if you load .357, then back off your powder charges an extra 10%. If you don't you'll get into overpressures pretty quickly.
@@SocialRegressive ahh that makes sense thank you for taking the time to reply!
It's obvious that you prefer and endorse RCBS. Lee has been my go to for most of the same bench items. Honestly I didn't catch anything new in your "straight wall" peculiarities of the 350. Good info for starter's. Measuring from the ogive made my '06' wicked accurate, I'm surprised you mentioned that first since it's the second to last thing you do before the crimp that you seem sketchy about, which I also found in the past to be very important for accuracy and sealing the cartridge from moisture.
Most of my dies come from Lee. They're tough as nails.
Does comparators size 358 for 350 legend? I was checked it doesn’t has size 350.
Usually .355".
@@SocialRegressive I was check completed set with 14 sizes but it is only one close 350 legend 358 size. Can you check links I just sent to you
So your using a light taper crimp?
I put a light crimp on with the Lee collet crimper.
I would love to see this with some cheap ole
.357 hard cast
Check out the Reloader's Network. I think there are quite a few videos on that subject.
@@SocialRegressive thank you, I pretty sure you answered my question, but you’re the only person I see loading 9mm and .357 I don’t really see anyone else loading .357. Where do you get load data for that?
Edit: this is an unrelated question to the one above
@@houtzyboy2 I use Quickload to create my own custom handloads. Then I back off an extra 10% for .357" bullets.
What kind of accuracy have you achieved with these loads
My handloads print roughly 1.6-1.75 inches. Factory ammo tends to hover around 2.5 inches.
yep! Factory is crap! Gotta reload even thouh I have gotten deer with Winchester factory 180's.@@SocialRegressive
How much does it cost you per round to reload 350.
10 cents for powder, 3 for primer, 24 for bullet. Not counting the case or tools about 37 cents per. Cheaper if you buy supplies in bulk.
any thoughts on the new .277 sig fury?
Scary and awesome. I want to play with one of the Cross rifles.
@@SocialRegressive saaaame
@@SocialRegressive what do you think of the insanely high pressures that it operates at? do you think that will make it impossible for it to have a relatively decent barrel life
were did you get the brass catcher
It's a UTG that doesn't really work well. I recommend the Caldwell.
@@SocialRegressive yeah. I’ve got a cheap one too. Works about half the time. I’ll check out the Caldwell.
That's a dial caliper, not vernier.
Whoops!
👍
It’s like .300 blackout but better and like .357 mag but better.
That’s a dial caliper.
Exactly, it's not that big a deal.
I never reload rounds. Been looking into it more and more. When I watch a video like this. It gives lots of info. But I also see $$$$$$ on every item used in it. Honestly is it even worth it unless your a daily shooter blasting few 100 rounds a week? Looking at buying reloading brass primers and bullets + all the tools it just seems impractical even for my 350L and 458 socom
I look at it as an investment into the future. I firmly believe they will tax ammo to the point it no longer affordable before they succeed in banning firearms. I do not save money, but I shoot more, and I continue to gather the supplies I need to do so for years to come.
As the old saying goes: we don’t reload to shoot, we shoot to reload!