CW is DA MAN!! Good video, Doc. My favorite 350 Legend magazine is a 10 round 223/556 P Mag that I filed down to function with the 350 round myself, by hand. Try it, you'll love it.
He sure is! Thanks for the tip, I might give that a try. These 20 rounders don't give me any issues with bullets actually designed for the cartridge, just some of the larger cast rounds getting hung up on the last one. Thanks for stopping by, hope you're doing well 🇺🇸👍👊
That's awesome! I tried a few of the 200gr RNs I cast up in the 38spl, but couldn't get them to stabilize in the short snub nose barrel! I'm still new to the 350lgnd, but it is a lot of fun so far. I have so many bullets and powders to test 🤦♂️ Thanks for stopping by, brother! 👊🇺🇸👍
@@photobyTaps I appreciate your comments and spending the time to watch! That's part of what makes this whole YT thing fun - the awesome reloading community on here!
You can increase the weight significantly by adding tungsten powder to your molten lead when you're casting. Just make sure you weigh your tungsten powder precisely. Tungsten is around 70% more dense than lead, so replacing 100 grains (50% by volume here, for ease of calculation) of lead will net you 170 grains of weight by tungsten, for a total of 270 grain weight projectiles, not accounting for your gas check. Running a 150 grain mold, replacing half your lead with tungsten powder, nets you a 200 grain bullet. A 100 grain mold, 50% volume tungsten, gives you a 135 grain bullet. You can do this reliably up to around 75% volume without affecting your terminal performance significantly. The 100 grain mold at 75% tungsten by volume would be roughly a 150 grain projectile. This is particularly effective for making subsonic loads. This 200 grain mold @ 75% tungsten by volume nets you a 300 grain projectile.
Don't give me too much credit, I'm still pretty new to reloading 🤣 just trying to share what little knowledge I do have with people that might have less experience than myself. I appreciate the comment, and thanks for watching brother 👊👍🇺🇸
After spending hours, searching for a NO-NONSENCE 'reloading .350 Legend' test,,, I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR VIDS! Very informative, AND quickly to the point! THANKS. I'm in the process of learning to reload,,,, & I'm blown away at the thought of using casted lead bullets @ over 2,000fps! PLEASE add a ballistic jell test to your reloaded grouping tests!? I'd love to see the expansion of lead wheel weights per FPS. BTW,,, What hardness are we looking at?
Thanks for the comment. Powder coating totally changes the game in terms of cast bullet capabilities. Hardness matters far less(as far as to reduce leading), because the PC acts like a polymer jacket. Gas checking is optional(again, to reduce leading), though many say it helps increase accuracy by providing a completely uniform base. Some people push lead up to 2500fps in a 223 with harder alloy and gas checked. I would love to test these for expansion, but afraid my range would frown upon that. I am unsure of the hardness of these bullets, they were sent in to the channel by @CW . My standard range scrap mixture that I dig out of the berm is roughly 12 bhn. I push these around 1850fps in 300blk, 1700ish in 450bm, 1250 in 357mag, 1k in 9mm, etc. It's accurate enough for training and having a good time at the range, and can save a TON of money compared to factory bullets of similar weight. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@DummyRound THANKS, for the extra info,, specially the FPS on those calibers. 2500 with .223! That'll do! Goodby varmints! ;>) I have a ton of 9s to do,,,& some .44s, so I gotta get good with that coating. Last cupla days,, I melted down about 250# of wheel weights in my outside woodburner,,,,, I learned a BUNCH there! .I also have about 500# of lead pipe to melt down & clean up,, into small ingots. Thanks Again
Big Dummy. hey Man, casting sure opens the door for many aspects of ammunition crafting and I see that you are no exception taking on the head-scratcher,, the 350 legend. many have Lost sleep, developed personality disorders, and devalued their self-worth as people over that round. anyway, it is nice to see a video that someone is enjoying that round. Not looking into years of psychotherapy over it. Have a good one!! -Dave
Hey, Dave. Thanks for stopping in. Trust me, I've spent some time scratching my head. I ordered this upper back in December and got it a few weeks later. It wouldn't feed or chamber any of the dummy rounds I had made up for it. Turns out they cut the chamber wrong and didn't polish any of it, had to send it back for warranty work. Since then, I've put maybe 50 rounds through it total, but with a much greater success rate. It'll probably smooth itself out a bit more over time, but I might still have to play with the magazines a bit. Can't wait to try some other bullets!👍🇺🇸👊
@@DummyRound I have been working on my self built 350 legend for a good six months. Only gun I've built that needs fine tuning. Feed ramp modification has been the biggest issue. My barrel had 1 large feed ramp and it doesnt work well with my m4 feed ramps on my upper. So out came the dremel. Chambers and feed ramps need polished and the mags need modified for sure.. I cut all mags front lips down and eighth of and an inch and that solved a lot of feeding issues
@@Dr.Ballsonya that sounds like about half of the 350legend stories I hear. I had to send my upper back to BCA, but all has been well since then. I think the malfunction in this video is a bullet profile issue. I might try taking a bit off the front of a mag, but I haven't experienced any of these issues since then. Thanks for watching, hope you get your gun running 🇺🇸👊👍
On my cmmg mag I had to open the mouth a little where the bullet leave the mag because the brass snags the magazine on the way out then I got duramag no problems the design is much better
Yeah I will have to open it up a little. I thought the Duramag and CMMG were the same thing for some reason. I will see if I can find one. Thank you, brother! 👍🇺🇸👊
Pretty cool stuff. I knew there was a lot to reloading, but you lost me in the reloading book. But I learned a good bit. I would like to see how well those hollow points mushroom, in a gel block or water jugs?
I would love to be able to test these in some type of medium, but none of the ranges around here allow anything fun like that. I can still work up hotter loads, and actually test velocity whenever I have time to get back to this project. I appreciate you watching!
Cool projectile. I have issues sometimes picking up the last couple rounds. I usually shoot 9 luger pro’s. 147gr or 130s. My primers are usually pretty flat before the bolt holds open on the last round. I’ve used h110, blk, and lilgun. I enjoy it but its a plinker for me.
I was wondering about using standard 9mm projectiles, are they able to withstand the rifle velocities? I wanted to try the 147xtp and other 9mm FMJs, but wasn't sure. My bolt held open every time it was able to actually feed the rounds. It's mainly a plinker for me too, but would be fun to take a deer with. Thanks, Jeff! 👊🇺🇸👍
@@DummyRound I’ve used the berry’s 147’s and northeast reloaders 147hp’s with pretty good success. I’ve had mediocre success with 133hp’s from a NOE mold. H110 seems to be the cleanest. I’ve got a 10.5” AR stoner barrel and my cast bullets I size to .357. The factory loaded 145gr target loads function a little bit better than my reloads so I’ve got more tweaking to do
What type of gas system does your 10.5" have? I think mine is just a carbine length, but I have a full rifle length buffer/spring in an old-school A2 stock. Not sure if any of that even matters.... Good to know about the 9mm projos, I'll definitely be testing some. Thanks again!
That's on the list of things to try! The lip will very occasionally catch on the case trying to feed, and one mag is better than the other. Shouldn't take too much to get them where they need to be. Thanks for watching! 👊🇺🇸👍
Second comment. I also noticed a little denting on your primer. I've had this happen also. Dirt, or sizing lube ( yeah I know, sizing lube?) but it can happen, and even fowling from primer pockets have caused it. One very big one is a shorter primer pocket. I myself no matter if it's once fired factory or factory new,( even nickel ) I always uniform them. Next adjust my primer system to .004 in depth to the lot or tray of primers being used at the time of loading or reloading. This has reduced dents to 0 with exception of a small grain of powder making itself to the top of the ram pin flat. Does a dented primer matter. Only on the severest. But I'm not expert so.
Thanks for the tip. I have used the primer pocket uniformer only a hand full of times, and each time, it didn't actually take anything out of the pocket other than some carbon build up like a normal scraper would work. Sometimes my Ram Prime will have a tiny shaving of brass, grain of powder, or whatever else will fit in there and mark up the primers as well, but they always seem to function.
I'm still very new to the 350 Legend so it's hard to say. Both have just about no recoil. Hard to compare because my 300blk is a pistol, and the 350 is 6 inches longer as a rifle. They both seem to have their ups and downs, but I think some 260-280gr subs in the Legend would put any 300blk subs to shame (more mass and a larger cavity).... I wish I had a suppressor...and a mold to make those bullets! 🤣 It's hard to say right now, but I have always been quite fond of the 300blk pistol. Thanks again, brother 👊🇺🇸👍
So my question is your using jacketed bullet data for lead bullet's with a gas check. That's ok? I already cast my own but no gas checks yet would be great to cast my own with a gas check for both the 350 LG and 357 Max.
That is correct. With powder coating, we can now push lead much faster than before. Under 2k is no problem. After that, GC and BHN start to matter a lot more. I usually do not GC, but these were sent to me as a gift to try out. Thanks for watching and commenting 🤘👊🇺🇸
I never did a second part to this but was recently thinking about loading them up again and actually shooting a group, I have a few left. I take shitty notes so I don't have the OAL anywhere, but I will make sure to note it next time. Hopefully sooner than later. Thanks!
@@DummyRound I found the answer to the overall length question in that video where you made 4 of those Lee 358-200 bullets using 20gr of Shooter's World Heavy Pistol powder. They measured "2.187-ish". The reason I asked is I have a mould for this bullet on order. I'll be using H110 with my bullets & will do like you did by starting out at 19.5gr. (.357 Remington Max load data.) One other difference: I'll be sizing my bullets to .355. I followed that link to CWLongshot's Channel, but UA-cam gave him the boot.
@@gregg2560 If you were going to use any of my Heavy Pistol loads, don't - they're HOT. I also suggest starting at 19.0 and moving up from there for the H110. I think I was getting some slight cratering on the primers. CW made a new channel since that one was shut down: www.youtube.com/@cw2a
@@DummyRound I don't use Heavy Pistol powder. I was going with the H110. I'll drop that start charge down to 19gr. May even drop it to 18.5 to be safe. Thanks for the info on Mr. CW.
I appreciate the sub! Glad to have you on board. CW is a great guy, and yes, very generous. The gift package I got from him was actually the second box he sent, USPS lost the first one - he went ahead and sent another. The first one ended back at his place a few weeks after I got package #2! Who knows how that happened 🤦♂️
In regards to your follower that looks tilted. I think your magazine is going bad. I've had the same thing happen with 5.56 mags. Normally what is going on is the top of the mag isn't formed right during manufacturing or the seem welds are letting go at the follower channel. Easy check is to measure your gap at the feed lips with your caliper and the rear of the magazine too. Those followers are usually injection molded and are really consistent so try some different high quality magazines.
These were brand new at the time, and are cartridge specific, so built for the 350L. I still have issues with some cast bullets on the last round, but factory jacketed bullets are 100%. I will keep that in mind as my magazines age and will look out for them splitting. Thanks 👊🇺🇸👍
@@DummyRound yes, cast bullets may take some tuning. I cast bullets myself and while I find they perform beautifully from revolvers it takes a lot of tuning to get the same results from autos. I think some of it has to do with that tiny bit of extra diameter needed to prevent leading. When using powder coated bullets in an auto I try to size down to exact size as that extra .001 is not needed on a coated bullet because with good coating coverage leading will not be an issue. Just sometimes exact sizing dies aren't readily available. Good luck.
It's most likely the extra diameter, like you said. I haven't done the dremel + horseshoe on the front of the mag yet, but I'm not overly worried about it. The 200gr RN seems to work more reliably.
@@DummyRound I agree, I would only mod the mags as a last resort. I shoot 50Beo and some people do the same mod for it. I find attention to the feed lips are more important. And I also think some bullets just have a more compatible profile for magazine feeding even though the otherwise shoot great. I have various mp molds. They are finicky sometimes but worth the hassle when you are getting great bullets in return.
I’m curious about how much leading you will get even though they are costed, n caped. According to my gunsmith shooting lead GCBbullets will still lead a barrel, lead isn’t meant to shoot at that speed in a AR. Just my opinion.
No leading yet. Powder coating is a whole different beast compared to plain lead with traditional lubing methods. The GC in this instance is more so to have a uniform base and help accuracy as much as possible, not so much to help gasses from passing around the projectile.
It is very much so a really long 9mm. They use. 355 diameter projectiles, just like 9mm. I have a few 9mm bullets to test to see if we can get some cheap plinking loads, or maybe a hunting round with an XTP or something similar. Lots of possibilities, as well as sizing down cast bullets that were meant for 38spl/357mag/35rem/etc like in the video here. Thanks for the question 👊🇺🇸👍
@@DummyRound I would be very interested in both, 158 grain sounds awesome. Are these going to be cast and coated bullets or plated or jacketed? I have some 147 grain .355 plated round nose bullets from everglades ammo. Says max velocity is around 1200 fps. Which should be plenty for a plinker load (especially supressed) 200 grain would also be very interesting. I would love to have projectiles I can use in both my 9mm and 350L reloading
I have mostly cast options, the plated ones will probably fall apart in flight. I'd guess they'd be going closer to 2k than 1200fps. I do have a 124gr FMJ we could play with, they should(might?) hold up better than a plated projectile. I'm using an AR by the way, so I require it to function the action. If you're running a bolt gun, and/or want a supposed load, there are tons of other options to use faster pistol powders, or Trail Boss, that you could find an accuracy load for - but it might not necessarily cycle an AR. I've seen some big 250+gr projectiles for suppressed ARs, but they needed a custom chamber and faster twist rate than a normal 350legend. I'm leaning towards the 158gr cast for now, but you could swap in an XTP or other equivalent jacketed projectiles if you size them down to .356". The 200gr is also fun, and I have some basic data started on those... Too many options!
Hey DR, I was wondering about dies, I have not purchased my 350 legend reloading dies for this endeavour. First off, do I need a sizing die? (I have a bear creek arsenal 16 inch 350 legend AR upper), and my other question would be, is the Lee 4 die set any good? I see them online for 75 bucks or so. I feel like it would be cheaper that way instead of buying a 3 die set and then a separate crimp die. Thanks, Ethan
My 350 is also a 16 inch BCA upper. You will absolutely need a sizing die. I would stay away from the Lee dies, at least for this cartridge. The set I have does not size the base of the case, so they won't pass a gauge. The expander is sort of a mandrel but doesn't work until you go too far and make a trumpet out of the case mouth. The seating die is awkward. I don't like to seat and crimp in the same stage, so you'll have to back the die body out a little bit. Doing that leaves you with very little seating stem to actually contact the bullet and seat to your proper depth. Then, when you do go to crimp with the seating die(after backing the stem out) it gives it an aggressive roll style crimp, which isn't great for a case that headspaces off the mouth. I have since gotten the Lyman MSR die set. It is amazing. I've heard good things about the RCBS set, and you can't go wrong with Redding. Anything but the Lee kit!
@@DummyRoundthanks so much for saving me a pile of money and frustration! I will have to hunt down a place that has that Lyman die set in stock. Any brand sizing die should be just fine? Is there anything else I should need to get started?
You'll need a way to trim them to proper length, since they headspace off the mouth. Any of the other die brands should work just fine. I saw the RCBS set at Midsouth and Midway for close to $50 not too long ago. I wouldn't hesitate to get those if I didn't already have the Lyman set.
@@DummyRound awesome, well since I am not in a huge hurry that's good, I put a set of the Lyman MSR dies on backorder. Especially since there's not much for bullet availability. Well, DR, I appreciate the advice and if there is any other equipment you recommend for this 350 legend endeavour I really appreciate the input, I'll be watching for your 350 legend content while waiting for my dies. Thanks Ethan
@@SuperCinemaCraft no problem, let me know if you have any other questions. As far as bullet availability, factory is fairly limited, but most 9mm projectiles should work... I only picked 350legend because I already shot and cast my own 35cal bullets, have a supply of small rifle primers, uses the same powders as 300blk, and it takes the same BCG as my 223 and 300blk. I like redundancies in my stock pile.
I wish someone would release 250 and 300 grain, 350 Legend bullets and load data. I love Winchester but they screwed up from the engineering to production. Makes me wonder if they did it on purpose as an anti gun move. If I am shooting a 200 grain or heavier in 350 Legend I am wanting a subsonic. At that point though you are shooting 40sw or maybe a 10mm. I hope someone gets serious and offers a 357 same length but load data and processes built off rifle loading, not pistol.
Who knows what they were thinking with this design, it would have been so much better if 357 orientated, and heavier bullets in mind. I have seen a few videos here on YT with subsonic 350 Legend, they had 280gr projectiles (I think?). I've theorized making duplex loads weighing 260-300gr with different projectiles paired with a wadcutter. Using an AR, 200gr is maybe too light to go subsonic. Mine are going 1800-2k, so I think heavier is required, and like you said, it's basically a 10mm at 200gr. I'll be playing with it for a while. Thanks for watching 👍👊🇺🇸
@@DummyRound You're very welcome. I'm trying to work up a load with a 158gr jacketed or cast bullet for my Legend. Don't want the rifle to blow up in my face.
A quick look at the Hodgdon site says 20.0-22.5gr for 158gr in 357max. They also list starting charges in the Legend at 24gr for a 170gr bullet, and 27gr for a 147gr bullet. I would definitely start low around 22gr or so and work up from there. I'll check the Lee book after work 👍
@@DummyRound Hodgdon lists several loads for the .350. The 158gr isn't listed. That Lee Manual you were showing has some load data under that 140gr jacketed bullet.
@@gregg2560 right, I was just mentioning similar loads to perhaps extrapolate a safe charge from. The 22.5gr they list in the 357max would probably be a good starting point. I'll check out the 140 tonight, but usually you pick a heavier bullet to take data from for a lighter bullet.
For the most part, but usually rifle cases don't need expanded out like in the 350lgnd. Unless you're using cast bullets, then you will want to, as they are usually a larger diameter than jacketed. Thanks for watching brother, let me know if you have a question! 👍🇺🇸👊
At this time I did not have a chronograph, but will be coming back to retest it at some point. My other 200gr cast bullet hits about 1900 with no pressure signs in early testing so far. Thanks for watching brother 👍🇺🇸👊
It's a Lee gauge, I forget the site they came from but they were cut wrong and I had to hone them down to actually have the mouth reach the cutter. The shell holder is the same as 223/300blk, I think the #4?
@@DummyRound LOL,,, using CH's is a very RADICAL way to measure, 'stuff'.! I'm way more technical,,,, I rely on Bch's, down to a minute Rch,,, with just a tad of SBch's 'strawberry blonde' mixed in! ;>) BTW,,,, I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR VIDS! Very informative, AND down to the point! THANKS. I'm in the process of learning to reload,,,, & I'm blown away at the thought of using casted lead bullets @ over 2,000fps! PLEASE add a ballistic jell test to your reloaded grouping tests!? I'd love to see the expansion of lead wheel weights per FPS. What hardness are we looking at?
CW is DA MAN!! Good video, Doc. My favorite 350 Legend magazine is a 10 round 223/556 P Mag that I filed down to function with the 350 round myself, by hand. Try it, you'll love it.
He sure is! Thanks for the tip, I might give that a try. These 20 rounders don't give me any issues with bullets actually designed for the cartridge, just some of the larger cast rounds getting hung up on the last one. Thanks for stopping by, hope you're doing well 🇺🇸👍👊
Those are some AWESOME cast bullets. Yowza. Beautiful. Cool video, thanks for sharing it with us.
Yes they are, CW did a great job! Thanks for watching👍🇺🇸👊
Awesome video!
This is the first reloading video that I truly enjoyed from start to end! Love my 350 Legend :)
Wow - Thank you for the comment! I'm just getting started with the 350 Legend so there will be plenty more to come! I appreciate you stopping by 🇺🇸👊🤘
@@DummyRound you're welcome and thank you again :)
I subscribed to your channel so I could enjoy more of your content. Keep up the good work brother 👍
CW makes some hella fine cast lead bullets. I'm glad you got to try some out in your 350. Echo
He sure does! More to come👊👍🇺🇸
Very nice! I'm an old 38 Special Super Police load fan. Thanks to you, I might just pick up a 350L
That's awesome! I tried a few of the 200gr RNs I cast up in the 38spl, but couldn't get them to stabilize in the short snub nose barrel! I'm still new to the 350lgnd, but it is a lot of fun so far. I have so many bullets and powders to test 🤦♂️ Thanks for stopping by, brother! 👊🇺🇸👍
I really like your presentation style. Tons of info crammed into a short amount of time. I look forward to your next video.
@@photobyTaps I appreciate your comments and spending the time to watch! That's part of what makes this whole YT thing fun - the awesome reloading community on here!
CW does a great job. I'm still working on some he sent me. Nice work on those 350 legends. Nice shooting.
Yes he does!! I have a few others from him to test. If I had some glass on it, I bet we could shoot some real groups! Maybe soon! Thanks, Tim!👍🇺🇸👊
Great video Brother- I really appreciate the steps, detail, and of course, the range time/result. We look forward to more great blammo content!
Thanks I appreciate it👍
Thanks for exploring this cartridge. It's cool to see it evolve.
Thanks for watching. It's a finicky cartridge but tons of possibilities 👍🇺🇸
You can increase the weight significantly by adding tungsten powder to your molten lead when you're casting. Just make sure you weigh your tungsten powder precisely.
Tungsten is around 70% more dense than lead, so replacing 100 grains (50% by volume here, for ease of calculation) of lead will net you 170 grains of weight by tungsten, for a total of 270 grain weight projectiles, not accounting for your gas check.
Running a 150 grain mold, replacing half your lead with tungsten powder, nets you a 200 grain bullet.
A 100 grain mold, 50% volume tungsten, gives you a 135 grain bullet.
You can do this reliably up to around 75% volume without affecting your terminal performance significantly.
The 100 grain mold at 75% tungsten by volume would be roughly a 150 grain projectile.
This is particularly effective for making subsonic loads. This 200 grain mold @ 75% tungsten by volume nets you a 300 grain projectile.
That is very interesting, I'll have to do some research. What are some loads you've developed with these methods? Thanks.
Awesome video!! Can’t wait to see how mine do out of my NOE mould.. thanks for the info.👍🏻
Let us know how they go! Thanks for watching 🇺🇸👍🤘
Excellent video from an experienced reloader. Thank you.
Don't give me too much credit, I'm still pretty new to reloading 🤣 just trying to share what little knowledge I do have with people that might have less experience than myself. I appreciate the comment, and thanks for watching brother 👊👍🇺🇸
After spending hours, searching for a NO-NONSENCE 'reloading .350 Legend' test,,, I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR VIDS!
Very informative, AND quickly to the point! THANKS.
I'm in the process of learning to reload,,,, & I'm blown away at the thought of using casted lead bullets @ over 2,000fps!
PLEASE add a ballistic jell test to your reloaded grouping tests!? I'd love to see the expansion of lead wheel weights per FPS.
BTW,,, What hardness are we looking at?
Thanks for the comment. Powder coating totally changes the game in terms of cast bullet capabilities. Hardness matters far less(as far as to reduce leading), because the PC acts like a polymer jacket. Gas checking is optional(again, to reduce leading), though many say it helps increase accuracy by providing a completely uniform base. Some people push lead up to 2500fps in a 223 with harder alloy and gas checked. I would love to test these for expansion, but afraid my range would frown upon that. I am unsure of the hardness of these bullets, they were sent in to the channel by @CW . My standard range scrap mixture that I dig out of the berm is roughly 12 bhn. I push these around 1850fps in 300blk, 1700ish in 450bm, 1250 in 357mag, 1k in 9mm, etc. It's accurate enough for training and having a good time at the range, and can save a TON of money compared to factory bullets of similar weight. Let me know if you have any questions.
@@DummyRound THANKS, for the extra info,, specially the FPS on those calibers.
2500 with .223! That'll do! Goodby varmints! ;>) I have a ton of 9s to do,,,& some .44s, so I gotta get good with that coating. Last cupla days,, I melted down about 250# of wheel weights in my outside woodburner,,,,, I learned a BUNCH there!
.I also have about 500# of lead pipe to melt down & clean up,, into small ingots.
Thanks Again
Awesome! Good luck with your casting. Sounds like you have a decent pile of lead to work with👍🇺🇸👊
Good testing 👍🏻
Thank ya sir👊🇺🇸👍
Big Dummy. hey Man, casting sure opens the door for many aspects of ammunition crafting and I see that you are no exception taking on the head-scratcher,, the 350 legend. many have Lost sleep, developed personality disorders, and devalued their self-worth as people over that round. anyway, it is nice to see a video that someone is enjoying that round. Not looking into years of psychotherapy over it. Have a good one!! -Dave
Hey, Dave. Thanks for stopping in. Trust me, I've spent some time scratching my head. I ordered this upper back in December and got it a few weeks later. It wouldn't feed or chamber any of the dummy rounds I had made up for it. Turns out they cut the chamber wrong and didn't polish any of it, had to send it back for warranty work. Since then, I've put maybe 50 rounds through it total, but with a much greater success rate. It'll probably smooth itself out a bit more over time, but I might still have to play with the magazines a bit. Can't wait to try some other bullets!👍🇺🇸👊
@@DummyRound I have been working on my self built 350 legend for a good six months. Only gun I've built that needs fine tuning. Feed ramp modification has been the biggest issue. My barrel had 1 large feed ramp and it doesnt work well with my m4 feed ramps on my upper. So out came the dremel.
Chambers and feed ramps need polished and the mags need modified for sure.. I cut all mags front lips down and eighth of and an inch and that solved a lot of feeding issues
@@Dr.Ballsonya that sounds like about half of the 350legend stories I hear. I had to send my upper back to BCA, but all has been well since then. I think the malfunction in this video is a bullet profile issue. I might try taking a bit off the front of a mag, but I haven't experienced any of these issues since then. Thanks for watching, hope you get your gun running 🇺🇸👊👍
On my cmmg mag I had to open the mouth a little where the bullet leave the mag because the brass snags the magazine on the way out then I got duramag no problems the design is much better
Yeah I will have to open it up a little. I thought the Duramag and CMMG were the same thing for some reason. I will see if I can find one. Thank you, brother! 👍🇺🇸👊
good stuff !
Thanks brother! 👊🇺🇸👍
Good vid
Thank you, sir👊🇺🇸👍
They remind me of those grease pens that have the gold paper you peel off as you use it.😎
Haha now I can't unsee it! Appreciate you stopping by👊🇺🇸👍
You need a scope on the rifle , and that one mag looks like the follower is undersized on the back end
Yes and probably yes! Maybe I should contact their customer service 🤔
Thank you, sir!👊🇺🇸👍
Btw, of all the excellent caliber choices we have, 350 LGD is my favorite. Let's Go Blammo & More 'Tree-fiddy Legend! 💥 👍🏼
Haha yeah it is a fun cartridge for sure!
Pretty cool stuff. I knew there was a lot to reloading, but you lost me in the reloading book. But I learned a good bit. I would like to see how well those hollow points mushroom, in a gel block or water jugs?
I would love to be able to test these in some type of medium, but none of the ranges around here allow anything fun like that. I can still work up hotter loads, and actually test velocity whenever I have time to get back to this project. I appreciate you watching!
Tru-dat! Let's all see the gelatin test results- ASAP!
Cool projectile. I have issues sometimes picking up the last couple rounds. I usually shoot 9 luger pro’s. 147gr or 130s. My primers are usually pretty flat before the bolt holds open on the last round. I’ve used h110, blk, and lilgun. I enjoy it but its a plinker for me.
I was wondering about using standard 9mm projectiles, are they able to withstand the rifle velocities? I wanted to try the 147xtp and other 9mm FMJs, but wasn't sure. My bolt held open every time it was able to actually feed the rounds. It's mainly a plinker for me too, but would be fun to take a deer with. Thanks, Jeff! 👊🇺🇸👍
@@DummyRound I’ve used the berry’s 147’s and northeast reloaders 147hp’s with pretty good success. I’ve had mediocre success with 133hp’s from a NOE mold. H110 seems to be the cleanest. I’ve got a 10.5” AR stoner barrel and my cast bullets I size to .357. The factory loaded 145gr target loads function a little bit better than my reloads so I’ve got more tweaking to do
What type of gas system does your 10.5" have? I think mine is just a carbine length, but I have a full rifle length buffer/spring in an old-school A2 stock. Not sure if any of that even matters....
Good to know about the 9mm projos, I'll definitely be testing some. Thanks again!
Take a dremel/rotary tool and round off the front of your mags.
That's on the list of things to try! The lip will very occasionally catch on the case trying to feed, and one mag is better than the other. Shouldn't take too much to get them where they need to be. Thanks for watching! 👊🇺🇸👍
Second comment. I also noticed a little denting on your primer. I've had this happen also. Dirt, or sizing lube ( yeah I know, sizing lube?) but it can happen, and even fowling from primer pockets have caused it. One very big one is a shorter primer pocket. I myself no matter if it's
once fired factory or factory new,( even nickel ) I always uniform them. Next adjust my primer system to .004 in depth to the lot or tray of primers being used at the time of loading or reloading. This has reduced dents to 0 with exception of a small grain of powder making itself to the top of the ram pin flat.
Does a dented primer matter. Only on the severest. But I'm not expert so.
Thanks for the tip. I have used the primer pocket uniformer only a hand full of times, and each time, it didn't actually take anything out of the pocket other than some carbon build up like a normal scraper would work. Sometimes my Ram Prime will have a tiny shaving of brass, grain of powder, or whatever else will fit in there and mark up the primers as well, but they always seem to function.
Nice loading. Did you get a chance to see the 3d printed case marker?
Now that you've reminded me... let me go check it out🤣
Do you like 350 or 300 blk most?? Ive got a package ready for you of some cast that Ill be sending out this next week.
I'm still very new to the 350 Legend so it's hard to say. Both have just about no recoil. Hard to compare because my 300blk is a pistol, and the 350 is 6 inches longer as a rifle. They both seem to have their ups and downs, but I think some 260-280gr subs in the Legend would put any 300blk subs to shame (more mass and a larger cavity).... I wish I had a suppressor...and a mold to make those bullets! 🤣 It's hard to say right now, but I have always been quite fond of the 300blk pistol.
Thanks again, brother 👊🇺🇸👍
So my question is your using jacketed bullet data for lead bullet's with a gas check. That's ok? I already cast my own but no gas checks yet would be great to cast my own with a gas check for both the 350 LG and 357 Max.
That is correct. With powder coating, we can now push lead much faster than before. Under 2k is no problem. After that, GC and BHN start to matter a lot more. I usually do not GC, but these were sent to me as a gift to try out. Thanks for watching and commenting 🤘👊🇺🇸
Good video. I'm very curious as to the hardness of those booolots and if and much leading in the barrel.
Thanks. I am unsure about the hardness, they were a gift. No leading at all thanks to powder coating and gas checks.
I was wondering if you ever did a follow up video to this one? I looked but haven't found one. Also what was the overall case length??
I never did a second part to this but was recently thinking about loading them up again and actually shooting a group, I have a few left. I take shitty notes so I don't have the OAL anywhere, but I will make sure to note it next time. Hopefully sooner than later. Thanks!
@@DummyRound I found the answer to the overall length question in that video where you made 4 of those Lee 358-200 bullets using 20gr of Shooter's World Heavy Pistol powder. They measured "2.187-ish".
The reason I asked is I have a mould for this bullet on order.
I'll be using H110 with my bullets & will do like you did by starting out at 19.5gr. (.357 Remington Max load data.) One other difference: I'll be sizing my bullets to .355.
I followed that link to CWLongshot's Channel, but UA-cam gave him the boot.
@@gregg2560 If you were going to use any of my Heavy Pistol loads, don't - they're HOT. I also suggest starting at 19.0 and moving up from there for the H110. I think I was getting some slight cratering on the primers.
CW made a new channel since that one was shut down: www.youtube.com/@cw2a
@@DummyRound I don't use Heavy Pistol powder. I was going with the H110. I'll drop that start charge down to 19gr. May even drop it to 18.5 to be safe.
Thanks for the info on Mr. CW.
No issues with 10 round mag. Lots of issues with 20 round mag not loading last round
Interesting! I haven't tried any of the 10 rounders. Thanks for sharing.
H110 is the magic dust that turns lead and copper into lighting strikes.
Yes sir, love some H110! I need to revisit these over the chronograph and shoot a group on paper.
I'd say those would drop a deer .
I think so too! Might up the charge and test a few groups? I'm sure the bullets are more accurate than I am! Thanks 👍🇺🇸👊
@vettelover2009 and that's probably twice as far as I'd ever even have a shot available! I'll be in some thick woods
I appreciate the sub! Glad to have you on board. CW is a great guy, and yes, very generous. The gift package I got from him was actually the second box he sent, USPS lost the first one - he went ahead and sent another. The first one ended back at his place a few weeks after I got package #2! Who knows how that happened 🤦♂️
In regards to your follower that looks tilted. I think your magazine is going bad. I've had the same thing happen with 5.56 mags. Normally what is going on is the top of the mag isn't formed right during manufacturing or the seem welds are letting go at the follower channel. Easy check is to measure your gap at the feed lips with your caliper and the rear of the magazine too. Those followers are usually injection molded and are really consistent so try some different high quality magazines.
These were brand new at the time, and are cartridge specific, so built for the 350L. I still have issues with some cast bullets on the last round, but factory jacketed bullets are 100%. I will keep that in mind as my magazines age and will look out for them splitting. Thanks 👊🇺🇸👍
@@DummyRound yes, cast bullets may take some tuning. I cast bullets myself and while I find they perform beautifully from revolvers it takes a lot of tuning to get the same results from autos. I think some of it has to do with that tiny bit of extra diameter needed to prevent leading. When using powder coated bullets in an auto I try to size down to exact size as that extra .001 is not needed on a coated bullet because with good coating coverage leading will not be an issue. Just sometimes exact sizing dies aren't readily available. Good luck.
It's most likely the extra diameter, like you said. I haven't done the dremel + horseshoe on the front of the mag yet, but I'm not overly worried about it. The 200gr RN seems to work more reliably.
@@DummyRound I agree, I would only mod the mags as a last resort. I shoot 50Beo and some people do the same mod for it. I find attention to the feed lips are more important. And I also think some bullets just have a more compatible profile for magazine feeding even though the otherwise shoot great. I have various mp molds. They are finicky sometimes but worth the hassle when you are getting great bullets in return.
I’m curious about how much leading you will get even though they are costed, n caped. According to my gunsmith shooting lead GCBbullets will still lead a barrel, lead isn’t meant to shoot at that speed in a AR. Just my opinion.
No leading yet. Powder coating is a whole different beast compared to plain lead with traditional lubing methods. The GC in this instance is more so to have a uniform base and help accuracy as much as possible, not so much to help gasses from passing around the projectile.
Excuse my ignorance but is 350 legend essentially a really long 9mm? Does it take regular 9mm bullets?
It is very much so a really long 9mm. They use. 355 diameter projectiles, just like 9mm. I have a few 9mm bullets to test to see if we can get some cheap plinking loads, or maybe a hunting round with an XTP or something similar. Lots of possibilities, as well as sizing down cast bullets that were meant for 38spl/357mag/35rem/etc like in the video here. Thanks for the question 👊🇺🇸👍
@@DummyRound very very interested in plinking/training loads on the cheap.
@@SuperCinemaCraft these are high on the list! Should we try 200gr or 158gr bullets?
@@DummyRound I would be very interested in both, 158 grain sounds awesome. Are these going to be cast and coated bullets or plated or jacketed? I have some 147 grain .355 plated round nose bullets from everglades ammo. Says max velocity is around 1200 fps. Which should be plenty for a plinker load (especially supressed) 200 grain would also be very interesting. I would love to have projectiles I can use in both my 9mm and 350L reloading
I have mostly cast options, the plated ones will probably fall apart in flight. I'd guess they'd be going closer to 2k than 1200fps. I do have a 124gr FMJ we could play with, they should(might?) hold up better than a plated projectile. I'm using an AR by the way, so I require it to function the action. If you're running a bolt gun, and/or want a supposed load, there are tons of other options to use faster pistol powders, or Trail Boss, that you could find an accuracy load for - but it might not necessarily cycle an AR. I've seen some big 250+gr projectiles for suppressed ARs, but they needed a custom chamber and faster twist rate than a normal 350legend. I'm leaning towards the 158gr cast for now, but you could swap in an XTP or other equivalent jacketed projectiles if you size them down to .356". The 200gr is also fun, and I have some basic data started on those... Too many options!
Hey DR, I was wondering about dies, I have not purchased my 350 legend reloading dies for this endeavour. First off, do I need a sizing die? (I have a bear creek arsenal 16 inch 350 legend AR upper), and my other question would be, is the Lee 4 die set any good? I see them online for 75 bucks or so. I feel like it would be cheaper that way instead of buying a 3 die set and then a separate crimp die. Thanks,
Ethan
My 350 is also a 16 inch BCA upper. You will absolutely need a sizing die. I would stay away from the Lee dies, at least for this cartridge. The set I have does not size the base of the case, so they won't pass a gauge. The expander is sort of a mandrel but doesn't work until you go too far and make a trumpet out of the case mouth. The seating die is awkward. I don't like to seat and crimp in the same stage, so you'll have to back the die body out a little bit. Doing that leaves you with very little seating stem to actually contact the bullet and seat to your proper depth. Then, when you do go to crimp with the seating die(after backing the stem out) it gives it an aggressive roll style crimp, which isn't great for a case that headspaces off the mouth. I have since gotten the Lyman MSR die set. It is amazing. I've heard good things about the RCBS set, and you can't go wrong with Redding. Anything but the Lee kit!
@@DummyRoundthanks so much for saving me a pile of money and frustration! I will have to hunt down a place that has that Lyman die set in stock. Any brand sizing die should be just fine? Is there anything else I should need to get started?
You'll need a way to trim them to proper length, since they headspace off the mouth. Any of the other die brands should work just fine. I saw the RCBS set at Midsouth and Midway for close to $50 not too long ago. I wouldn't hesitate to get those if I didn't already have the Lyman set.
@@DummyRound awesome, well since I am not in a huge hurry that's good, I put a set of the Lyman MSR dies on backorder. Especially since there's not much for bullet availability. Well, DR, I appreciate the advice and if there is any other equipment you recommend for this 350 legend endeavour I really appreciate the input, I'll be watching for your 350 legend content while waiting for my dies. Thanks
Ethan
@@SuperCinemaCraft no problem, let me know if you have any other questions. As far as bullet availability, factory is fairly limited, but most 9mm projectiles should work... I only picked 350legend because I already shot and cast my own 35cal bullets, have a supply of small rifle primers, uses the same powders as 300blk, and it takes the same BCG as my 223 and 300blk. I like redundancies in my stock pile.
How thick is a CH? Ha Ha!
You know exactly how big🤣
@vettelover2009 🤣
I wish someone would release 250 and 300 grain, 350 Legend bullets and load data. I love Winchester but they screwed up from the engineering to production. Makes me wonder if they did it on purpose as an anti gun move.
If I am shooting a 200 grain or heavier in 350 Legend I am wanting a subsonic. At that point though you are shooting 40sw or maybe a 10mm.
I hope someone gets serious and offers a 357 same length but load data and processes built off rifle loading, not pistol.
Who knows what they were thinking with this design, it would have been so much better if 357 orientated, and heavier bullets in mind.
I have seen a few videos here on YT with subsonic 350 Legend, they had 280gr projectiles (I think?). I've theorized making duplex loads weighing 260-300gr with different projectiles paired with a wadcutter. Using an AR, 200gr is maybe too light to go subsonic. Mine are going 1800-2k, so I think heavier is required, and like you said, it's basically a 10mm at 200gr.
I'll be playing with it for a while. Thanks for watching 👍👊🇺🇸
Get any chronograph readings on these?
I did not, I need to retest these some day. Thanks!
Cannot find primer. Any idea where to get some?
I have most luck locally, otherwise try joining the reloading discord 👍
What was the C.O.A.L. on those??
I'm really bad at taking notes but probably 2.26 to fit the magazine is my guess
Question, isn't .350ledg really a .30 carbine round?
More like 9mm ++++++++P. It is .355" diameter, whereas 30 carbine is .308" diameter.
Did the Lee manual show loading for 158 grain bullets for the .357 Remington Maximum using H110??
I can check when I get home. Thanks for watching brother 👊👍🇺🇸
@@DummyRound You're very welcome. I'm trying to work up a load with a 158gr jacketed or cast bullet for my Legend. Don't want the rifle to blow up in my face.
A quick look at the Hodgdon site says 20.0-22.5gr for 158gr in 357max. They also list starting charges in the Legend at 24gr for a 170gr bullet, and 27gr for a 147gr bullet. I would definitely start low around 22gr or so and work up from there. I'll check the Lee book after work 👍
@@DummyRound Hodgdon lists several loads for the .350. The 158gr isn't listed. That Lee Manual you were showing has some load data under that 140gr jacketed bullet.
@@gregg2560 right, I was just mentioning similar loads to perhaps extrapolate a safe charge from. The 22.5gr they list in the 357max would probably be a good starting point. I'll check out the 140 tonight, but usually you pick a heavier bullet to take data from for a lighter bullet.
i am new to reloading does these steps apply to reloading any cartridge?
For the most part, but usually rifle cases don't need expanded out like in the 350lgnd. Unless you're using cast bullets, then you will want to, as they are usually a larger diameter than jacketed. Thanks for watching brother, let me know if you have a question! 👍🇺🇸👊
In Michigan we say ¢unt hair more😂😂
It's a very specific unit of measurement 👍🇺🇲
Did you velocity test this load?
At this time I did not have a chronograph, but will be coming back to retest it at some point. My other 200gr cast bullet hits about 1900 with no pressure signs in early testing so far. Thanks for watching brother 👍🇺🇸👊
What case trimmer and shell holder gauge are you using?
It's a Lee gauge, I forget the site they came from but they were cut wrong and I had to hone them down to actually have the mouth reach the cutter. The shell holder is the same as 223/300blk, I think the #4?
@@DummyRound do you know what size the gauge is?
Got it here on FS reloading fsreloading.com/lee-precision-case-length-gauge-and-shell-holder-350-legend.html?search=350+legend
@@DummyRound Thanks!!!
What is a CH?
If you have to ask you can't afford one🙃
@@DummyRound lol. I prefer my Cs without Hs
That makes both of us🤣
@@DummyRound LOL,,, using CH's is a very RADICAL way to measure, 'stuff'.! I'm way more technical,,,, I rely on Bch's, down to a minute Rch,,, with just a tad of SBch's 'strawberry blonde' mixed in! ;>)
BTW,,,, I ABSOLUTELY LOVE YOUR VIDS! Very informative, AND down to the point! THANKS.
I'm in the process of learning to reload,,,, & I'm blown away at the thought of using casted lead bullets @ over 2,000fps!
PLEASE add a ballistic jell test to your reloaded grouping tests!? I'd love to see the expansion of lead wheel weights per FPS. What hardness are we looking at?
Cw got terminated:(
He has a new channel ua-cam.com/channels/BOIIvlk30qD5a7xVLfmyfw.html