Magnetic-strip secondary glazing
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2024
- Magnetic-strip secondary glazing is one of the most cost-effective and unobtrusive household measures for reducing fuel costs and improving comfort and warmth; but it is very little advertised (unlike the well-known and more expensive/ obtrusive framed secondary glazing), so a small team in Lewes, East Sussex have made a short video for householders interested in its advantages and installation process.
For more information on magnetic-strip secondary glazing and other energy-saving measures, see:
www.lewesecoope... (Lewes Eco Open Houses, part of Transition Town Lewes)
www.jillgoulder... (more detail from a house-owner)
lewesbuilderdec... (specialist installer in the Lewes area)
SOME USEFUL FACTS & FIGURES
Here are some figures about household heating/energy loss and the cost benefits of doing a lot of draught-proofing and adding magnetic-strip secondary glazing (or for a very cheap short-term fix, seasonal glazing film (like cling-film))
(2020 note: this information was collated in 2016 from the Energy Saving Trust, buildingconservation.com and English Heritage
)
• 18% of all household energy is lost through windows alone, 26% through roofs and 33% through walls
• 30% of heat lost in a home can be due to draughts
• Comprehensive draught-proofing can reduce fuel bills by 20%+ per year
• Curtains reduce heat loss by 41%
• Blinds and shutters reduce heat loss by 51%
• Insulated shutters reduce heat loss by 61%
• Modern roller blinds reduce heat loss by 22%
• Double glazing reduces heat loss by 55% (U-value 3.14)
• Magnetic-strip secondary glazing reduces heat loss by 63% (U-value 2.70)
• Magnetic-strip secondary glazing can be around 15+ times cheaper than double-glazing
• Draught-proofing (using draught-proofing strips) around windows can reduce energy loss by 80%
• Seasonal glazing film can increase temperatures in your home by 10% and costs from £2 per window
Extracts from an English Heritage 2010 publication titled 'Energy Efficiency in Historic Buildings: secondary glazing for windows':
'• The benefits of double glazing over other methods of window upgrading are often overestimated. Much of the comfort and energy efficiency benefits of new double glazing come from the reduction of draughts that will result from well-fitted window frames with integral draught-proofing. ... With continual improvements in the performance of secondary glazing it may even be possible for the performance of secondary glazed windows to exceed that of new double glazing.
• Heat losses from a typical traditional window are predominantly through gaps around the window. With larger windows the proportion of heat lost by conduction through the glass tends to be greater.
• In terms of noise reduction, double glazed units are no better than single glazed units; and can be slightly worse for traffic noise. The important criteria for noise reduction are that the windows are well fitted and draught-proofed. Secondary glazing, with its larger gap between the panes, is a better sound insulator.'
FLY-SCREENS
I've now added a section to my eco-website about using the magnetic strip system for easily adding fly-screens to windows and doors in the summer: www.jillgoulder.plus.com/green/Fly_screens.pdf. I hope that you can find these self-assembly fly-screens wherever you are (we seem to have a worldwide readership! :-)), or can perhaps make your own.
Excellent facts and figures, thank you!
I am going to install this in my 72 year old mother's house. Thank you so much for the video. Lifesavers!
i’ve worked in construction all my life and this is one of the clearest concise videos i’ve ever seen.. well done guys excellent work 👍
This is praise indeed! Thank you! How lovely
This is great, and one of the most British things I've seen in a long time.
😃 Thank you! And it certainly is. Millions of ill-fitting single-glazed windows and a cool draughty island
@@ecolewes i meant the whole video, accents etc. i’m the son of a pom living down under. You’ve inspired me. Does the acrylic also reduce noise?
@@plakey2001 Oh, OK! First time of doing a video, so probably a bit amateurish and British 😀 (in a nice way). Yes magnetic-strip secondary glazing is actually better than double glazing at reducing noise - particularly higher sounds. Deep vibrating traffic noise is trickier, though it'll help
I have not used your great advice, but it became already warmer from your heart
Thanks so much for posting this video, you are the most delightful presenters. With the latest "Beast from the East" hurtling through my lovely old sash windows, your expertise offers a really helpful solution.
Thank you! (blush). Best of luck with your project - suddenly you'll be warm again
Thank you for this idea, Jill. I had never headd of it. I installed 5mm ploycarbonate sheets, and the benefits are really noticeable instantly. My main concern was sound insulation, and I can say the noise was reduced about 80% with this system. I would recommend a lighter sheet (3 or 4 mm) to make lifting the sheets easier, as a higher thickness doesn’t really affect sound insulation but does make sheets heavier.
Thank-you for this lovely comment! Hearing from a happy householder makes it all worthwhile.
Yes, 3mm or 4mm are ideal thicknesses. Be warned that polycarbonate scratches a bit more easily than acrylic; it's slightly less clear than acrylic too; but both are fine for the job.
Made my day to read about your installation :-).
All the best, Jill
@@ecolewes Hi.
i. Are you the lady in the video?
ii. Do you know if the principle of sound proofing's density?
iii. If so, do you know if polycarbonate less dense than plain glass?
iv. If a car horns ~20m from the window how much % volume you can hear?
@@agfdsa123 Hello - unfortunately I'm not the person to ask about acoustic insulation, as my aim in this video (yes, that's me!) is solely to advise people about my experience of improved heat insulation. My best advice is to look down through the comments on this page, as I've answered to the best of my ability to various enquiries, and some other commentators have input. It DEFINITELY reduces most sorts of noise, and as I understand it it's the distance between the two panes that is critical.
I think you may have just saved me $22,000. Thank you!!
Hi Jill your video was so helpful it made our jobs so much easier.Just like to say a big thank you.
Thank you very much indeed - it's a lovely feeling to know that our efforts are helping. All the very best
Update Sunday 3rd October 2021 woke to single glazed windows with condensation. Went into sitting room where the bay window has been completed with 4mm Plexiglas condensation free! What a result. The system really does work! spurred me on now to do dinning room bay window.
This is so encouraging to hear! MANY thanks for posting this - it should convince more people to do it.
Many thanks for a clear and concise demonstration. My tape supplier suggested fixing to the frame first but I thought of using your method instead, this has convinced me.
Thank you! Both methods work, but the approach that Neil uses in our video is really neat and effective. Delighted that we've been able to help.
You're adorable and this was a well written and well executed presentation, thank you so much. I'm making something similar for my parents, my dad is an ER doctor, and works all hours of the night, adding some vinyl sun blocking contact paper onto these I think is going to make a big difference to him for both sight and sound
Wow, thank you! I am glowing at your praise!! Yes, the good thing about this system is that you can add elements; someone's using one-way mirror acrylic, and I use fly-screens with magnetic strips in the summer for some windows. Very best of luck with your project for your father in his valuable work
Thank you for this great video. I was about to purchase ready made-up sheets and then came across this video. I've now done five windows myself with great savings. I have a grade 2 listed house so needed to find a solution that works within listing regulations and this definitely fits the bill. I've noticed a huge reduction in condensation (to pretty much none), warmer rooms and noise reduction benefits. I've adapted the method to other window styles, aside from sash windows, with the same good results. One point to emphasise is draughtproofing the windows first as much as possible (the sound of creaking acrylic in high winds can be a bit eerie); I used gapseal sash window filler alongside brush and foam seals, which worked well in the recent high winds. Once again, many thanks.
This is the sort of post that makes my day! Thank-you! We're so pleased to have helped someone else, and it's so useful to have your good experience posted up on our site. Yes, DRAUGHTPROOFING THE WINDOW WELL FIRST really helps the secondary glazing to do its job properly, and sash windows are a particular challenge. www.gapseal.co.uk looks brilliant and I'm going to buy some straight away, and recommend it at my Eco Open House events. Yes, the problem with many sash window insulation products is that they doesn't take well to the window being opened; but with this adhesiveless foam tube you just take it out when the window's opened and re-insert when you close it. Perfect!
Many thanks indeed again.
Eco Lewes dear Eco Lewis. Just a bit of extra feedback on how the sheets coped with the Beast from the East and Storm Emma. I’m near Taunton in Somerset in an exposed rural location and so had a real challenge the last two days. All the rooms with the sheets have been great, I had freezing rain to contend with and this did not affect any of the covered windows. I was insulated and cosy while the freezing rain and strong winds raged outside. Hope you’ve been safe and warm as well. Best wishes.
Sarah Elliott I
That's brilliant to hear! Yes, I felt quite strangely isolated from the Beast and the storm - I could see it all going on outside, including snow and some deep frost, and like you was warm and protected indoors. Thank you very much for writing - nothing like an unsolicited testimonial! All the best.
This is just great -thank you. Clearly explained and demonstrated , I can now tackle this task on my windows with confidence !👍
So grateful for this fantastic idea which will be my summer project.
Great video thanks. I have now framed the five windows that need secondary glazing with 25mm x 10mm stripwood which i fixed with no more nails to give a nice flat surface. I used 25 mm tape from indigo as my windows are quite large approx 1.8 meters by 1 meter sash. Acrylic panels cut to size due on Monday. The only difference in fixing that I have done is to pre fix the steel tape to the frame before gluing to window as there is so little room between the window and very deep reveals. Total cost of the project is around £450 for the five windows. Hope this makes a difference in a very cold Scottish village. Again many thanks to you and Jill
This is the sort of news that makes it all worthwhile - MANY thanks, and I'm thrilled that it's worked out for you. Good for your warmth and heating bills, and good for the planet :-). Warmest best wishes
How did it work for you? Did you feel there result?
Thank you so much for this. It is so clear and well presented. I live in a conservation area and have a similar problem. Brilliant!
Many thanks for your VERY kind words - much appreciated :-) :-)
Omg guys I’m working this out in my head ready to order the kit and I’ve stumbled on your video. This is just what I need perfect thanks 👍👍👍
Thank you!
What a clear and straightforward explanation. Exactly what I needed to do my own.
Thank you! So glad that we can help you. Saving the planet together!
That was so very interesting and this is a must for me. My windows are quite large , thank you so much for an excellent video.
Excellent video thanks for posting! We live near an airport and the noise is unbearable, we had contractors out to quote on double glazed windows but the cost is insane, so i am going to give your solution a try.
Great - I'm not an expert on the acoustic benefits, but I know that it does definitely help. English Heritage in a 2010 publication said "In terms of noise reduction, double glazed units are no better than single glazed units; and can be slightly worse for traffic noise. The important criteria for noise reduction are that the windows are well fitted and draught-proofed. Secondary glazing, with its larger gap between the panes, is a better sound insulator." So the larger the gap between the glass and the acrylic the better; for some windows you might even be able to install the secondary glazing over the whole window aperture. Best of luck with the project!
Thank you so much! I have the same issue with the projecting beads, so it is a great idea to fit the strip batons onto the frame first. Your demonstration, for the benefit of us all, is so appreciated. I am doing this mostly for noise from a road, so hoping it will work. I've been told that as the window is 150x100cm I should probably use 4mm acrylic for stability, but the 3mm looks so light and handy to take down.
Hello - excellent! The feedback about noise is that this type of secondary glazing helps with quite a range of sounds (so should be good for most road noise) but may not be quite so good at reducing the deep background hum that comes from fast-moving traffic.
I have several windows the size of yours or larger, and 3mm is fine. Good idea to nail a small batten at the bottom of the window on which the acrylic sheet can rest - this'll help the magnetic strip to support the sheet, and is also very handy when putting the sheet on the window.
Good luck with your project! and many thanks for your kind words.
@@ecolewes Thank you so much for that advice. I will put the batten across, resting on top of the window sill so the sheet is also supported from the bottom. I'm going for the widest gap possible, as I understand that makes a difference with the noise reduction, so outer frame of an Edwardian window frame.
@@michellerogers6566 Yes indeed - width of gap between glass and acrylic is key in noise reduction. Also important that any gaps etc in the window are draught-proofed - it's also insulating from noise. I'm so pleased to have been of use!
Thank you for a helpful video. Also I would like to say as a foreigner I just adore your accents. Just lovely. :D
Oh, thanks!! We are happy to please, and perhaps Neil and I will go viral because of our English accents :-) :-)
Hi really love the simplicity of the process... Thank you for sharing it, I will use your method to better insulate my windows.
This is such a useful video, thank you
I followed your instructions and installed secondary glazing in my draughty Victorian flat. What a difference! Thank you very much for this helpful video. 👍🏻
This lovely sort of email always makes my day! I love feeling useful! Warmest thanks and very best wishes
Amazing video!!! This is exactly what I am looking for. Thank you.
Thank you 🙏 I have never heard of magnetic glazing before . I love lewes by the way!
Thank you, twice over!
What a very informative video and well spoken and classy lady . She makes Joanna Lumley sound like Waynetta Slob . Excellent 👍
(Falls on floor laughing) Well, thank you! I do find I sound more and more like my grandmother as my vocal chords age
Very helpful and informative video. I am about to embark on using this secondary glazing in my house in Bristol...
Much obliged to you!
Thanks
scousetony
+tonydeltablues I'm delighted that I was able to help! Many thanks indeed for taking the time to comment
Really useful video and very much enjoyed the no-nonsense DIY aesthetic of the film making too. Refreshing!
Thank you! We were all new to film-making!
Amazing. Very clear instructions. Gonna try it, will report my results.
Thanks for the video, that is what I was looking for!
I've been using these for years in my Victorian House - I'm very happy!
Here's a new idea: when you take down your magnetic-strip secondary glazing for the summer, you can put up fly-screening across the window using the same technology. Buy a self-assembly window fly-screen, e.g. from www.chainscreens.co.uk, and put magnetic strip on the rear side, and it'll clip onto your existing steel strip. If only part of your window opens, no problem. If there's steel strip around a couple of sides, a fly-screen will attach and stay up nicely as they are very light; or you can add steel strip to the window-frame as needed.
Brilliant. Thanks. I put my polycarbonate sheets actually in the recessed area of my sash windows to get a tight fit to the bottom pain. Any shortfall in a snug fit I used rubber draft excluder. I also got 12mm thick so practically bomb proof....lol. Shuts ALL NOISE OUT. Thanks for vid as it helped me out a lot. Regards.
12-millimetre polycarbonate - definitely bomb-proof, though heavy! (Polycarbonate, unlike acrylic, is indeed bullet-proof) Thank-you very much indeed for your kind words - every window mag-strip glazed reduces our energy footprint and that makes me very happy :-). Have a lovely (warm and quiet) 2019.
It's no wonder you don't hear anything: a 10 dB reduction in noise is generally perceived as the noise halving
12mm polycarbonate gives a baseline 34 dB reduction
Sounds like bliss!
I did this to my flat 3 years ago, Im renting the place so this is the best solution, I live next to a big junction and I can say this cut down the car traffic noise by 50% and the cold by %30. best time to install them is in summer so the glue can settle better and lasts longer otherwise I find you'll have to replace the strips every year or so. the trick is not to leave any gaps at all between the magnet and the metal strips otherwise it defeats the purpose. we rarely open windows in winter, however mines are split in half unlike the one in this video so its just a matter of removing one small panel if I ever need to open the window. my energy bill before this was £900 now its £700
It's brilliant to hear that this system has helped you! Many thanks indeed for the useful information on noise reduction and on when best to install the steel strip - that's a good tip. And you're absolutely right about ensuring a perfect seal between steel and magnetic strips: on some period windows the surface is a bit uneven, and in my own house I've used a few plastic rotating clips on a couple of windows to clamp the acrylic down where the surface isn't straight. It's particularly interesting that you're renting, so were looking for a low-cost solution. Thank you very much indeed for taking the time to comment so usefully. :-)
Mate how thick glass did u use and how big was the gap? Thanks
Thank you for the hard work put into this video. I had a question: although there are plenty of magnetic strips available, I cannot seem to find metal strips. Could you please share the brand name or just the product type?
+FarFed Hello - and thank you very much for your nice words! I always buy the steel strips along with the magnetic strips, from the same suppliers, as a set. Indigo www.indigoplc.com/ecom-prodshow/magnetic-diysecondary-glazing-kit.html, The Plastic People www.theplasticpeople.co.uk/doubleglazing-kits-c-157_79.html and TW Plastics www.twplastics.co.uk/ProductView/2041/magneticwindow-kits all sell both, when I last checked. I hope that helps? Good luck!
Loved this video and going to give it a try. However there is no available flat surface and no space to fit buttons. Wondering if there's a strip that would adhere to a curved surface.
I think the strip might adhere to a curved surface, but the problem is the acrylic! You can bend acrylic, but it needs some force to keep it bent - more force than magnetic strip would offer. Difficult to say more without seeing the planned installation. Hope you can work out a solution
This is my favourite video on the entire internet. My goodness, how nicely spoken that lady is! My mother and father narrated cine films in that voice in the 1970's. Truly a joy to listen to.
Oh, wow! And well, I've have to thank my parents for my accent.... Rather an old-fashioned one, I always think. Anyway, many thanks for your nice post
Many thanks for this really helpful video. Following your directions we have just done eight windows in my daughter's 1930's gatehouse in Westhill Putney in one day. It would not have happened without your tips.
This is terrific to hear - many thanks indeed for letting me know. My step becomes lighter every time that I hear that our video has helped to save the planet a little bit :-)
A very useful and well put together video - congratulations. I am about to follow your lead but am as yet undecided about which plastic sheeting to use. I have read that polycarbonate is much stronger, as clear and also better from the standpoint of fire resistance than acrylic. In deciding to go for acrylic, did you consider polycarbonate sheeting and if so what were the reasons for going for acrylic and not polycarbonate?
I'm delighted and grateful at your praise! It makes it all worthwhile.
From what I've learnt over the years, polycarbonate has no significant relevant advantages over acrylic, and it tends to be more expensive. A minus of polycarbonate is that it scratches more easily; used as secondary glazing it's not going to be subject to scratching much, but it's a consideration e.g. when moving/storing. Polycarbonate is strong - indeed it's bullet-proof! - but that's not a relevant advantage in this usage. As I understand it, acrylic burns about as easily as a hardwood window frame, i.e. not easily at all. It's used for airplane windows and motorcycle shields, so is pretty well-rated on fire. So basically I and many users choose acrylic because it tends to be cheaper; but polycarbonate is fine.
I hope that helps!
Good morning, how much would you say it helps to reduce noise from car traffic? Thank you!
+Enzo P. Hello Enzo - yes, it really does reduce noise significantly. Where I live, most of the houses are right on the street, and neighbours who have installed it report a huge reduction of noise from traffic and pedestrians. Good luck with it!
I fitted this system 2 years ago and the metal strips have gone rusty.I would smear the strips with grease or vasaline,or better still paint them with metallic paint. Hope this helps.
+Philip Irvine Yes, treating them with anti-rust and then something like white metal-primer might be good. Many thanks for noting this
Very interesting video ,Thank you, I was going to buy some Velux thermal blinds but this system will be much cheaper and conserve more heat for my rooflights,I will be using it for all my windows though.
Many thanks indeed! - we're delighted to help yet another person wanting to reduce energy use and keep warm. All the very best with your project.
I’d REALLY like to see how the magnetic strip is installed on the window at 2:09 in this video. The handles of the window stick out further than the window frame. It seems that another frame has been built around the window, but it’s difficult to tell....??? My windows are like that - they have handles on the inside and open outwards. I’m trying to figure out how to do this (before winter..lol).
Hello - good to hear from you. It's not a very clear photo here, but the window handles are actually well within the existing frame, which is about 2" thick; so this was a very easy window to do. If your handles stick out beyond your frame, you can buy battens and nail or glue them round your frame; the item to look for is stripwood (e.g. Homebase has it), which typically comes in 6-foot lengths, of various thicknesses and widths. I hope that helps! All the very best.
Eco Lewes Thank you very much for your response and advice. One could make ice in my bathroom, and I hope that this is the solution for me. Thank you again.
Jill thank you. This is so simple and cost effective.
Hi. I seem to have problems finding the right magnetic strip here in Chile where I live, I can only find black and not with a metal counter part. Even when looking at amazon I don't seem to find the two parts you seem to be referring to. Could you provide a little more information on the specific products? The solution is idea for Chile and I'd really like to do a test to be able to share with friends and family but I need to find the local equivalents in products to be able to do that so if you can give me a little more information I may be able to find what I need here. Thanks!
Hello - good to hear that you're looking into this! I can only help with UK sources, but perhaps they'll give you some clues as to what to search for. These are the suppliers listed on my website (www.jillgoulder.plus.com/green/Magn_strip_2ndary_glazg.pdf):
www.theplasticpeople.co.uk/magnetglaze-adhesive-strips/
indigo.co/Category/magnetic_magnet_self_adhesive_tape_strip_roll
indigo.co/Item/steel-metal-adhesive-tape-12
www.theplasticman.co.uk/products/tapes-and-glues/magnetic-tape.html
www.secondarydiyglazing.com/secondary-glazingsystems/secondary-glazing-systems-magnetglaze
Some systems have a magnetic strip and a steel strip; others have two magnetic strips of different polarity so that they stick to each other. The magnetic strip is brown and has adhesive foam on one side - this is sometimes brown or black and sometimes white.
The products are usually sold by industrial companies rather than consumer ones, so may not feature on Amazon.
I hope this helps a little!
All the best
i am ever so pleased to come across this video. can you please help guide, where to buy the magnetic strips from? i have already ordered some sheets for our window. thanks a lot
Hello - I'm so pleased that our info was useful! My web-page www.jillgoulder.plus.com/green/Magn_strip_2ndary_glazg.pdf has some suppliers of strip - I hope that helps. Best of luck with your project.
Hi there, thanks so much for your video. It's really informative. I live in a Victorian house with long sash windows - each window pane is more than a square meter so I am losing a lot of heat through my two north-facing living room windows! I'm just wondering about the ease/difficulty of removing large acrylic sheets so that I can open the windows for a few mins each day to allow fresh air to circulate. I'm not very tall myself (less than 5 feet) and I'm wondering how easy it would be for me to re-attach the acrylic without using a ladder. I estimate the top of the window frame is just over 3 metres above floor level. I suppose I'm wondering just how grippy the magnetic strips are. I have noted your previous comments about fitting hinges so the acrylics can be swung away from the windows but that's not an option I want to consider. Just yet! Thanks in advance
Hello - delighted that our video is helpful! I'll try and help about your query, though I can only work from personal experience. The top of my own windows are c.2.3 metres above the floor, and I have no problem putting the acrylic sheet back on; I 'offer it up' to the top of the window and it connects with the strip at the top and then you flatten it down onto the rest of the strip. If you've got a handy low stool (say 50cm high) you should be able to manage the height of yours OK, though it sounds as if the sheet will be quite big; you'll certainly want a batten under the bottom to keep it secure and to help you when replacing it.
But I'm really not at all sure that installing magnetic-strip secondary glazing on a big window is ideal if you're going to remove it every day; it's indeed easy to take off, and not too hard to put back on (though that can vary), but then there's where to lean the acrylic sheet every day, and perhaps damp being trapped in when you put it back on. With a little window, 2-3 feet square, taking the sheet off frequently isn't a problem; but I feel that this is really going to make a rod for your back! Is there any other way of ventilating your room daily? My house is fairly open-plan, so air circulates when I open the front or back door, and there's air exchange through my fire-place chimneys.
Hinges? No, definitely not. I've re-read my former comments, and I have mentioned little clips that help to hold the magnetic strip on big sheets closely onto the steel strip, but they're not hinges - simply a tiny L-shaped plastic clip. Really sorry that I was unclear.
I hope this all helps!
Superb and informative video, thank you for posting it. It's just the no-nonsense video I was looking for for this project. A great solution. I have also had great success with using FROSTED PERSPEX (80% clear frosted perspex 3mm thickness available from Trent Plastics in Lincolnshire) and adding black glazing bars to make a Japanese-style checked screen that transforms the effect of the harsh glare that streetlights give out if you are unfortunate enough to have one right outside your window. It transforms the window into a soft glow with the black checks of the glazing bars during the night. From Suffolk.
That's a brilliant idea! That would look really elegant and zen, allowing you still to keep your window uncurtained. Thanks! For people living near here, www.brightonandhoveplastics.co.uk/ also do frosted acrylic (perspex). And many thanks too for your very flattering comment; we made the video originally because it seemed that this info was available nowhere else on the internet. Warmest good wishes from all of us
Thank you! Helpful info'. Already seeds of a solution sprouting for me. My tape measure will get an airing later today.
So happy to have found this video! Thankyou! I live in a rented flat and my only worry is what happens to the window frame once you peel off the magnetic steel strip? Is it really strong and will it take the paint off with it?
Hello! With the system that I've always used, it's steel strip that I attach to the window-frame, with the magnetic strip being attached to the acrylic sheet. The steel strip, if peeled gently with a little help from a scalpel or other v sharp blade, comes off the window-frame OK - I can't vouch for fresh paint, but my established paint is generally fine. I'd guess that you might get the odd tiny bit coming off (if your windows are white, apply Tippex!) - well worth using a hairdryer to help with removal. It could be worth having some Sticky Stuff Remover handy in case of a little sticky residue on the frame.
There is indeed an alternative system putting magnetic strip on both the frame and acrylic; I haven't tried it, but a hairdryer might be useful for removing it too.
Hope that helps. Good luck!
This is a very helpful video, thank you
+Ben Turner Many thanks - much appreciated!
Many thanks for this video - really useful. We have no space to fit the magnetic strips around the window itself, is it worth fitting it outside the recess? the main reason we want another layer is the noise reduction from the outside, we have no problems with insulation. Thanks in advance!
Hello - glad you like the video! I'm not very knowledgeable about noise-reduction, but I do know that the wider the gap between the acrylic and the glass the better the noise reduction; so fitting it outside the recess sounds a very good thing. Do report back on the noise improvement when you've done it - there's a lot of interest on this thread about that. I'm hoping that one day someone might do a video about mag-strip and noise-reduction! All the best and good luck
Read my reply just added in comments. I can now hear nothing from outside. I live by a quay where boats are power washed (ignorant people at weekends......). Can hear nothing now. Enjoy.
Great video with clear instructions. Thank you. One question - do you find the metal or magnetic strips start to peel off over time? My local magnet supplier says that they will do that over time. Your experience here would be invaluable as you have had this system for many years.
Hello Non Bus - yes, it does sometimes happen to the steel strips. I pre-empt it on tricky/ narrow surfaces by actually using Liquid Nails or a similar strong adhesive to put the strips on in the first place; the suppliers say that that doesn't work because of incompatibility with the sticky surface, but mine have been fine for many, many years! If a strip attached with its own sticky surface does start to peel off, it may be best to pull it carefully right off and reattach it using Liquid Nails or similar. As for the magnetic strip, I've never known it show any signs of peeling off the acrylic sheet. I've never used the mag-strip to mag-strip system, with mag-strip on the window frame as well, so I can't comment.
I hope this is useful. All the best
Very nice!
Very informative, helpful video. Makes so much sense!!! Thank you so much. On my way out to buy supplies for this project.
Thanks, John! We try to help the planet a bit!
Unfortunately, I have been unable to source white magnetic tape here in U.S. Plenty of black, but that won't work for me. Any suggestions? Thanks.
Hello John - unfortunately I only know UK-based suppliers, as in my supplier list on my website referenced in the video - www.jillgoulder.plus.com/green/Magn_strip_2ndary_glazg.pdf, page 3. Note that you only need the adhesive side to be white (commonly a white foam), as that goes onto the acrylic and so is visible from the room; the actual magnetic side is always black/brown, but won't be visible in use. I'm sure there must be suppliers in the US - sorry that I can't help more!
If you really can't find magnetic strip with white adhesive in the US, you could put white tape round the room side of the acrylic so that you can't see the dark adhesive?
Happy new year
Does anyone know of a company that offers a comparable product in the U.S.? So far I've found only cheap knock-offs with poor reviews.
Hope someone can help - my only thought is to look at the UK companies' website and use keywords from them. Good luck!
USER FEEDBACK - Been using this solution for 3 years - Worked like a dream the first year.
The second year the plastic magnets did not stick so well to the window magnets and I had to take it off/put it back up every 2 weeks or so during winter to get it to re-attach properly.
Third year it is working worse again, the plastic magnet always starts detaching from the window magnets every 1-2 days, it always starts detaching at just above the bottom strip, circa 3cm above on each of the left and right sides, which lets the warm air in to then start the dreaded condensation process on the window again.
Has anyone else had this issue, and if so have you managed to resolve it?
I think I may have possibly slightly warped the plastic sheets by storing it standing up on the side during the summer, so I would advise everyone to store the plastic sheets flat on the ground when not used where possible.
Well done Eco Lewes for the excellent video and the idea in the first place!
Many thanks indeed for giving this detailed feedback - it helps us and the other readers, and we really want to know about the good and the bad. (And I'm hugely pleased at your kind comment at the end!)
I'm so sorry, though, to hear about the magnetic and steel strips not holding together properly. I had this problem with one window - I dealt with it by using small nylon swivel-clips (which work well), but eventually a few weeks ago I addressed the problem properly. Basically the window wasn't square, and I hadn't allowed for that properly when placing the steel strip, and so the acrylic sheet was under stress and kept gaping in various places. I took off a couple of the steel strips and reinstalled them carefully (with extra small bits as needed to make them truly square, which I found they weren't quite) so that the acrylic was properly flat; and it's absolutely fine now - no clips needed, and the sheet survived Storm Bella with no trouble.
So it's worth checking whether the steel strip layout is EXACTLY the same size as the sheet. Another factor might be that the window-frame, if it's vintage, isn't totally flat - I did have that a bit with another window, and dealt with it by building up the offending section of frame with wood-filler under the steel strip. And again, little nylon swivel-clips are useful.
I often store my acrylic sheets upright and sometimes flat (under a bed), and I've never had any trouble at all with warping, so I can't contribute on that, though it's really interesting to hear about people's actual experiences.
That's all for now! Warm thanks again for taking the trouble to give feedback
i'm just wondering, do you need to test the smoothness/level of your window frame surface before going ahead? I only mention it because you said you had to apply some backing or something to Jill's window. Great video btw, really informative!!
Many thanks for your nice comment! Yes, you do need to achieve a smooth, level surface, a bit over 1 cm wide, all round the window, so that the 4 sides of the acrylic, with its magnetic strip round the edge, clip nicely and fully onto the steel strip round the window. On a couple of windows in my house that wasn't there, so I glued narrow, thin wood strip around the window (painting it to match) to make a smooth surround. In Homebase etc these narrow, thin battens are called stripwood. I hope this helps!
Thank you. This is very similar to what I would like to do rather than plastic wrap every year
I have almost completed secondary glazing my Victorian house with single glazed sash windows. The difference is amazing. I was inspired by your video. Thank you !
This is music to my ears! I am so happy to have been useful! As I write, I am looking out of my Victorian sash window at a chilly storm, but am warm and comfortable due to the secondary glazing. So pleased that it's working for you
Hello Eco-Lewes, thank you so much for your very informative video on Magnetic-strip secondary glazing installation. Thanks to you I came across a company called WindowSkins, who supply and fit the glazing. I had the glazing installed a month ago and I'm so pleased to have been able to keep my lovely wooden sash windows. The glazing is unobtrusive and looks amazing. No more draughts, condensation and noise. The best thing is that the glazing is not visible at all. I went for the option that allows me to open windows rather than remove them during the summer months. Thank you.
That's very interesting about WindowSkins! Perhaps at last this system will start to be used more widely. Using a firm will cost more than DIY or using a handyman, but sounds an interesting idea for people wanting a complete service. They seem to be a new company, so I look forward to seeing how they progress. Many thanks for letting me know about this
Hi Eco Lewes, thank you so much for this very helpful video. I have the perspex and magnetic tape but need to add thin battens to the frame first as I have the same issue with the protruding beading. May I ask whether you glued the battens to the frame and if so what kind of glue you used - as it is vertical, you can't apply pressure to them until the glue is dry. I want to make sure they are strongly enough stuck to take the perspex sheeting, which I will be taking down regularly to open the window and air the bedroom! Thank you so much.
I think I used Liquid Nails/No More Nails; and in a couple of cases I also used a couple of thin panel pins, making sure that the heads didn't protrude above the batten surface. Or using parcel tape to hold the battens steady while drying could be good. Hope that helps!
Hi Jill. Thank you for your cult status Pathé News style video. You may save a nation from the energy crisis ! What do you think of secondary glazing over the glass panels of front and back doors given that the air gap will be only be 20 to 30mm as opposed to the optimum 100mm and of course drafts will not be taken care of ? Thanks. Simon
Wow! (Blush) Certainly every time that someone writes that they've been inspired by our video and secondary-glazed their windows I feel a tremendous glow at having personally struck a blow for helping save the planet 🙂. Small measures, but they add up. Thank you! Meanwhile, I've indeed secondary-glazed my front door glass panel (in fact with glass as it's cheaper than acrylic) as ANY secondary glazing is good; see photos of it at the end of this PDF: www.jillgoulder.plus.com/green/Magn_strip_2ndary_glazg.pdf. As you say, it doesn't deal with draughts round the door (need lots of draught-proofing strip), but the cumulative effect around your home will all help. BTW, this moving draught strip for the bottom of your door is v useful - www.stormguard.co.uk/stormguard-products/brydale-x/. Very good luck with your project - and thank you again
I noticed you briefly mentioned about painting the window where the adhesive magnetic strip is applied. I assume all the magnetic strips are a dark colour with clear adhesive backing. I have white pvc window frames and want to match that colour. Can you share more information about how you painted over the magnetic strips?
Hello there are two systems - one (which I use) which has white steel strip on the window-frame and brown magnetic strip (with white adhesive) on the acrylic sheet, and one that I haven't used which uses brown magnetic strip (of opposing polarities) on both. If you use the steel strip option it's already white. I don't think painting brown magnetic strip would work. I hope that's useful! Good luck with your project!
Wow, this is awesome. My scrooge landlord won't fix my draughty windows. This is a perfect counterattack to stay warm & keep my gas bill low. I can't believe I've never heard of this idea before. Thank you both, Jill & Eco Lewes, very informative ❤
Thank you!! I'm really delighted that we've been useful. As you say, this is a good system for rented property as it can generally be removed without damage at the end of a tenancy (or the incoming tenants might well want to keep it). All the very best to you.
Tuesday 28th September 2021 Plexiglas 4mm arrived from Sheets Plastic at 1300 by 1600 all 3 pieces were fitted to original wooden 1850 sash Bay Window, we are absolutely thrilled, cut down noise from main road fumes and dust! Thank you for taking the time doing this video was very helpful and informative.
You've made my day!! I'm SO pleased to have been of use - many thanks indeed for your nice message
Hi Phil. How is the weight of the 4mm? I’m looking at a 2m x 1m for each of my sashes and wondered if it would be too heavy to lift out etc?
@@MrCostaC Hello CJ we found weight wise not bad to handle, being winter not lift out, still thrilled with the noise reduction and cutting down on dust
@@PhilG0BVD That is so useful. I have a largish double-glazed sash cord window but I would want regularly to take the perspex down to open up the window - I would be doing it mainly for additional noise reduction from the road...
@@michellerogers6566 We only have single glazed sash windows and live on a main A road it really has worked a treat for us.
Just what I was looking for, thanks.
+Martyn feckingnamespolicy I'm really glad that I and my colleagues have been of use!
with a window dimension of 1200mm x 1570mm should I go with 25mm magnetic tape (would be using 4mm acylic.
Hello - I've never used 25mm tape, but it would be stronger than the narrower one, yes, which should help if you're using 4mm acrylic. I have a couple of windows of c.1200mm x 1450mm, with 3mm acrylic and the narrower tape, and they're fine. I normally use 3mm as it's 25% lighter and is cheaper, and the insulation difference is minimal. Good luck with your project!
Hi, thank you for your demonstration, unfortunately I did not catch what you did here 2:54 in order to keep surface even. Please let me know as I have same issue with my window. Many thanks
Hello Yaneck - many thanks for your query; right, I'll try and explain.
I: Sash windows (as in the video): the ideal is to have the steel strip put on the frame outside what's called the staff bead (the rounded strip of wood immediately round the window-space), but sometimes the staff bead sticks out and gets in the way of the acrylic sheet. Three options then: i) plane down the staff bead until it no longer sticks out, and then you can put the steel strip on the frame and the staff bead won't get in the way of the acrylic sheet; ii) plane down the staff bead a bit so that it's flat and even, and put the steel strip on this; iii) put wooden strips/ battens on the frame and the steel strip on this so that the acrylic is far enough raised so that it can pass across the sticking-up staff bead.
In the case of the window being shown, an extra problem was that the frame was too narrow to put the steel strip on; so we had to plane the staff bead to make a flat surface, and put the steel strip on that (option ii). This is the worst option, as if ever you need to disassemble your sash window this will be inconvenient.
II: Other windows: generally, if your windows have uneven frames, the solution is to glue or nail wooden strips/ battens round the window as appropriate; paint them as needed, and then put the steel strips on them.
I hope this explanation is not too complicated - we would like to show drawings of these options but the system doesn't allow. If you let us have an email address we'll send further explanations.
Very best wishes
Hi Jill, Could I use this on an Attic window 75cm by 94 cm which is angled due to the roof. I am concerned that with the weight of the material and the angle, the magnetic strip wont be strong enough to hold it !? My purpose is for sound proofing . Any help please ?
Hello - a good question. I've used this system on a small angled skylight with no problem at all, but for the size that you mention, definitely the best thing would be to support the acrylic sheet with the little nylon clips that I've mentioned earlier. You'll need to search online - they're cheap, but there's the cost of posting; here is a random example, just so that you can see them: www.theonestopplasticsshop.co.uk/secondary-glazing-5-mm-nylon-clips-natural-p-10315.html. Buy a pack of them and put them all round your window; screw them in lightly, place the acrylic sheet, swing the clips round, and screw in a little more. I'm pretty confident that that should work really well. :-). Let me know how it goes. The sound-proofing result will be excellent!
Fantastic idea, thank you for sharing!!!
Thank you! It's brilliant to know that we've made a difference by making this video. Very best wishes
Great video but I have a query. The windows I want to secondary double glaze have roller blinds on them. The brackets are right where the steel strip and magnetic strip have to go. Can they be drilled through, as well as the plexiglas, so the brackets are fitted on top of the plexiglass. Would drilling the plexiglas sheet be a specialist job?
Hello - many thanks for watching our video! Drilling plexiglass should be no problem at all (I've done it) - tap very gently with an awl and hammer to make a small starter mark, then start and continue gently. The steel strip will need a little bit of a bash with an awl (put it on a wood block), and then drilling with a suitable bit. Magnetic strip no problem.
My concern is whether the drillling will let air in - a key point about this system is that no air comes into the gap between the window and the acrylic. Do your best to ensure that the hole is as far as possible from the inside.
Best of luck with your project!
Many thanks for your video. We've followed your instructions, using same supplier for magnetic strips and have installed perspex on 7 windows in our Victorian house so far, but are having problems and hoping for advice. The magnetic strip is unsticking from the perspex on all windows and causing the perspex to eventually fall off... We've tried replacing the strip from a new batch, and have put in screws at the base of the perspex but sadly that's not helping with the problem. Our windows are already well insulated so we don't think there's a problem there. All advice gratefully received!
Just to be clear - the flexible magnetic strip itself is unpeeling from the perspex? Must admit I've never come across this - the strip normally sticks very well to the perspex, the glue being far stronger than the magnetic force that holds the magnetic strip against the steel strip.
If there's a failure it's always either the magnetic strip not staying magnetically attached to the steel strip installed on the window-frame (solution: support the perspex with a batten and with small plastic swivel clips), or the steel strip detaching itself from the window-frame (solution: glue it back on with Liquid Nails/No More Nails).
But if the glue on the magnetic strip is failing, my only suggestion is to use Liquid Nails/No More Nails. I'm so sorry to hear about this and wish I could help more.
what was your total cost in 2022 per window?
@@ecolewes Thanks v much for your clear reply! Yes, the problem is with the strip unpeeling from the perspex. The supplier of our perspex is not aware whether they've supplied for secondary glazing before, so our advice would be to check that before ordering! We're going to persevere.....we don't really want to use Liquid Nails as it will show, so are going to try gentle abrasion of the perspex to see if that gives a better surface for the magnetic strip.... fingers crossed!
@@deborah9240 Goodness, this is certainly a new one on me. Certainly acrylic [perspex) should be no problem - I've never specified to any supplier that I'm using it for secondary glazing. My only thought is that there's some form of coated acrylic, which you've bought? (So abrasion might help to remove that). I'll ask my two colleagues from the video, Neil and Olivier, whether they've ever heard of such a thing, and will come back to you with any useful notes
@deborah9240 PS What brand of magnetic strip are you using? Perhaps the problem lies there. Let me know and I'll look online as to what adhesive they're using - there are definitely better and worse brands, with price being a big differentiator
Perfect. Very nicely done, one of the best diy UA-cam’s I’ve seen! Many thanks.
(Blush) Thank you! These kind words really mean a lot
Thank you so much for the well made video. Question, will this perform as a soundproof of traffic noise?
Thanks for the praise! The system definitely reduces various sorts of noise significantly. Traffic noise is a particularly tricky one to deal with as it's deep and has a strong background 'hum'; the magnetic-strip system will certainly help with some elements of the noise (stationary traffic revving, miscellaneous sounds), but with moving traffic there's likely still to be some low background vibrating hum. I'm not an expert on this, but I gather that the bigger the gap between the window-glass and the acrylic, the better the sound insulation.
I hope this helps a bit! Best of luck with your project
I’ve watched this video again and again, specifically for my freezing cold, single glazed bathroom window. I have what’s called a ‘projected’ window style - the window opens outward, but there is a rather clunky lever that protrudes inside the window, when the window is shut. There is no way to put this system on the window frame itself - will the magnetic steel strip adhere to the tiled walls that surround the window?
Hello - I'm sure that the steel tape would stick to the actual tiles OK, but my concern is the gaps between the tiles (where the grout is). It's really important to have a perfect seal, with no gaps. Would you be able to glue thin battens of wood onto the tiles all the way round? (You could paint them to match your tiles) Then you can put the steel strip onto the battens for a perfect seal. The thin battens are called stripwood, and e.g. Homebase sell them. Good luck with the project - you'll love having a warmer bathroom!
Eco Lewes Thanks for the suggestion! I’ve been suffering with this bathroom for years, and I, too, was wondering about the grout area. Thanks for the response!
@@Inisfad Great - hope it all works out. NB Use a good gloopy type of glue, and check that the glue is filling all the gaps
Can I ask, is the adhesive on the strips strong enough to handle the Brighton winds? I have tried the thin plastic cling film ones on my windows, but the wind just rips the adhesive off.
The issue in that case might be more with the grip between the magnetic strip and the steel strip. On one large sash window, which gets a lot of strong eddies of wind, I made the mistake of using 2mm acrylic rather than 3mm or 4mm, and also of not draught-proofing the sash window well enough. In a gale, the eddies blew the acrylic (with its magnetic strip) off the steel strip in places. I couldn't afford to replace the whole acrylic sheet, so instead I did two things: did a lot more draught-proofing, and bought a pack of little swivelling plastic clips and put a few in key places. Problem solved permanently! Brighton & Hove Plastics just south of Portslade station (www.brightonandhoveplastics.co.uk/ - small shop, nice people) sell them, or another contributor to this web-page says 'The fixings can be found on ebay at the moment - £2.85 for 12 (search for "Secondary Glazing Clips")'.
Re the adhesive on the steel strip (the adhesive on the magnetic strip, on the acrylic sheet, doesn't seem to pose a problem), it's really worth spending money on the best product that you can afford - it's the adhesive that affects the price, and a higher price means stickier adhesive! If it does start gaping from the window-frame, I put some Liquid Nails/No More Nails glue on - the strip suppliers advise against it, but it's worked fine for me so far (11 years).
I hope that helps! Good luck with the project.
@@ecolewes Thank you for the prompt response. I know the shop! They made me some pieces for my aquarium. I will get them to do my sheets as well. Makes me wonder how the Victorians survived the winters in these big drafty houses!
@@dlibby4979 Great! Do mention this web-page to them. I totally agree about the poor Victorians - sash windows are a great idea in ways, but a mad English idea in others.....
@@ecolewes Im just emailing them for a quote now. I will mention this page.
@@dlibby4979 Inevitably the price will be a bit higher than online, but we really need these friendly local shops to survive. All the best!
A great video! Thank you. Looking into doing this myself now
With nothing better to do this cold afternoon I googled 'home made double glazing' and came across your excellent video. I have a 17th century listed house with gales blowing through my windows even with foam draught excluder tape in them. I am not allowed to have double glazing and secondary glazing companies say they won't do anything unless I get listed building permission, which is a painful process. For the last few years I have just turned the central heating up and avoided sitting near a window. I reckon this method would do the trick. I am a single lady and want to do the job myself. Are you allowed to recommend any 'glass' companies - the ones online that I have just found have very mixed reviews? Thank you.
Hello Julie - yes, sounds exactly as if you need magnetic-strip secondary glazing! as it's invisible from outside so permitted in listed buildings (without needing to go through the permission process). I'm not clear what you mean by 'glass' companies? Acrylic sheet is the most common/best material used for this, and it's a pretty standard product so the only difference would be price/delivery/reliability. My info is a little out of date as I finished doing my windows a while ago, but my web-page gives a short list of companies supplying cut-to-size acrylic sheet: www.jillgoulder.plus.com/green/Magn_strip_2ndary_glazg.pdf; it also gives more detail on how to measure/prepare the windows. Someone on this thread below also recently recommended cutmyplastic.co.uk. Again I'm out of date on good companies supplying the magnetic and steel strip, but I did check in 2019 the companies mentioned on my web-page; and the thread below suggests Ebay. NB Be sure to check the colour of the adhesive on the magnetic strip, as that's what'll show when the sheet is in place; you can get white or brown.
A final point: do measure very carefully indeed on old windows, as right angles aren't always present! I measured one of my windows, vertically and horizontally, ensuring that the measurement applied all the way across; and when the sheet arrived - lo, the window turned out to be a parallelogram not a rectangle!! And do use thin battens (called stripwood) as a base for the steel strip if your window-frames are uneven. And one thing more: if you can't fit the secondary glazing onto the window-frame in a narrow embrasure, think about installing it on the surround of the window embrasure itself - not everyone wants to do that, but it does result in superb insulation, as the most important factor in that is the distance between the window-glass and the acrylic.
VERY best of luck with your project - please do report back!
@@ecolewes Thank you for your quick reply it was all really helpful. I can see that I will have to put battens on most of the windows. As the frames are all different (and like yours, not rectangles) I think I will try the easiest one first to get a feel for the process! Thanks again.
Hi! Congratulations on your idea and many thanks for sharing. I'm a portuguese apartment ower, and although the winter here is not as cold as yours, still in the north of Portugal we get temperatures under 5 degrees Celsius.
My apartment is of modern construction, and all the rooms have very tall and large ceiling to floor windows.
And although the windows have aluminum frames and double glass, heat transfer is very large, and the temperature drops very quickly and the house gets very cold (near outside temperature).
Based on your experience, do you think that your strategy would be effective to reduce the temperature range in my apartment and preventing the high and fast temperature decrease?
Thank you very much!
Hello Alexandre - pleased to hear from you; I love going to Portugal, even with the 'Atlantic' weather. Certainly more layers of window material (glass, acrylic) will always make a really big difference in heat insulation, but from the sound of it there might be difficulty in installing the steel strip round your windows (do you have good frames round the edge of each window?), and beyond about c.2.5 x 1.5 metres the acrylic sheet would become unwieldy and impractical to install. Have a look at www.jillgoulder.plus.com/green/Magn_strip_2ndary_glazg.pdf to see if the magnetic-strip/ acrylic approach would be practical for your windows. The apartment sounds lovely and light, but you may be faced with a problem!
Very good luck.
Unfortunaly, the windows are 240cm tall x 80cm wide each, so probably installing acrylic sheets of this size will be a bit difficult. Also, not only there are 8 units in the apartment, but also the windows open horizontaly (that is, the openning is not perpendicular to the wall but "into" the wall / "into the nearby window frame") so the sheets will have to be removed whenever it is necessary to "slide" (open) the windows... But exactly for this reason, the secondary glazing in this case MUST BE magnetically attached (not glued or through some kind of adesive) as it has to be easily removable. I´ll give it a go, notheless!
That's big but not impossible - there's online info that indicates that up to 2.5 metres x 1.5 metres is possible. Use 3mm acrylic (2mm too bendy, 4mm too heavy), and nail a good batten at the bottom to stop the sheets sliding and to help with putting on and taking off. You might also like to think, for the sides and top, about adding some little plastic clips that nail onto your window-frame and have a little arm that swings round to hold the acrylic firmly in place. Good luck!
Here are some figures about household heating/ energy loss and the cost benefits of doing a lot of draught-proofing and adding magnetic-strip secondary glazing (or for a very cheap short-term fix, seasonal glazing film (like cling-film)):
• 18% of all household energy is lost through windows alone, 26% through roofs & 33% through walls
• 30% of heat lost in a home can be due to draughts
• Comprehensive draught proofing can reduce fuel bills by 20% + per year
• Curtains reduce heat loss by 41%
• Blinds and shutters reduce heat loss by 51%
• Insulated shutters reduce heat loss by 61%
• Modern roller blinds reduce heat loss by 22%
• Double glazing reduces heat loss by 55% (U-value 3.14)
• Secondary Magnetic Glazing reduces heat loss by 63% (U-value 2.70)
• Secondary Magnetic Glazing can be around 15+ times cheaper than double-glazing!
• Draught Proofing (using draught proofing strips) around windows can reduce energy loss by 80%
• Seasonal glazing film can increase temperatures in your home by 10% and cost from £2 per window!
(2020 note) This information was collated in 2016 by a colleague, from the Energy Saving Trust, buildingconservation.com and English Heritage
Thank you for your reply. Much appreciated
Eco Lewes thank you for making this video. I’ve just moved to a conservation area with big draughty windows and an amazing view out of them. Do you know of anyone who has used one way mirror to do their secondary glazing? I want to look out at the sea without everyone seeing me when they walk by!
I know you can buy one way film and stick it to the existing window but the flaw seems to be that in summer it reflects heat away from the room (possibly desirable in Lewes but I’m up in Scotland, I’d like all the warmth to come in through summer!). Secondary glazing with one way properties seems the best of both as you can store it over summer.
@@jennyhorner Hello - your new location sounds amazing! Incorporating one-way is not something that I've heard of, but certainly worth looking into it. Are you thinking of sticking the one-way film onto the acrylic sheet? (Worth checking that there won't be a problem with the glue reacting with the acrylic) or of using one-way acrylic sheet? (Glass would be too heavy as you have large windows)
It crossed my mind that the planning people might not like one-way windows in a conservation area? but perhaps as you're looking out over the sea it mightn't be a problem.
Finally, don't forget to do all POSSIBLE insulation on your draughty windows before installing the secondary glazing - worth spending good money on this, as it'll make a real difference to your warmth and energy bills.
Good luck with the project! and please do report back, as other readers of this blog might be interested.
Eco Lewes I was thinking of buying one way acrylic as the secondary glazing. I’m going to phone the duty planner with a few conservation area questions, so I’ll ask.
Hello Jill. Is there any way I could contact you. I've searched for your details on the web and can't find any! I wanted to ask you about where you go the figures above from as if you could quote a source I could use them as a way to promote the secondary glazing. Thank you.
I want to do it, my only issue is I'm going to have to trim the steel strip down to about only 3/8" of an inch at most and some I may only get 1/8", most should have at least 3/8" on the top and bottom steel strips on the window. It's just the sides there is going to be some compromise. I may be able to find a stronger magnetic strip, or it may even hold, it's still got a lot of area for support but not like you're in the video.
Hello - the steel and magnetic strip that is mainly used is half an inch; I should think that (if the window that you're doing isn't v large) you could trim it to 3/8", but 1/8" sounds no good, to be honest. (On the window that I show at the beginning of the video I only have just enough width for half-inch tape.) Is there any way that you can put thin strips of wood round the window to build it up to a height where you have enough space? Not sure what else I can suggest! Can the steel strip protrude out over the window-space a bit?
@@ecolewes its tight space. Itd have to be a thin piece of wood or plastic and i cant find anything easy to meet my needs. Its only 3 windows that are 1/8” out of the 16 i want to do and its the right side that only has 1/8 the rest have 3/8. I think ill just buy it and hopefully make it work
@@goon5544 I think what I'd do would be to try to glue a thin batten on the inner edge of the window, sticking out over the glass, which you could then put the steel strip partly on. Tricky, though! Best of luck with it
@@ecolewes Yea, I think you're right the more I think on it.
Such a lovely video, well explained and thoughtful. Such wholesome people too
Thank you! That was our aim. And we do try to be nice people too
This is a great solution to keeping my studio warm - it has metal single glazed windows so this will work brilliantly!
Delighted to hear! Many thanks for your nice note
What a good idea - something to look at for my house I think! Thanks for making this video.
Many thanks to you for your kind words! All the best
Excellent clear presentation - Well done!
Thank you for this wonderful video, just the information I needed.
We're delighted to have been able to help! Best of luck with your project.
Is this possible to use with an air conditioner unit in the window?
Also, if I can’t find any acrylic sheets that cover the height of the window would 2 smaller sheets be better?
Is this another way to soundproof the room?
Hello - good to hear from you. Here are some notes:
Air-conditioner - I feel that it would be quite tricky to form a total seal round the edge of the air-con unit (though you could try with insulating strip and sealant), and more or less impossible if you need the acrylic sheet to be removable. It's really important to get a perfect seal with no gaps
Size of sheet - acrylic sheet comes in sizes up to 3 metres x 2 metres, so I'm guessing that your window is smaller than that? (Installing acrylic sheet on a window of more than c.2.5 x 1.5 metres would be problematic anyway)
Two sheets - the problem would be the join between the two, which again needs to form a total seal. I did try a system offered by one supplier, using an H-shaped plastic joining strip, but it didn't work
Sound-proofing - you would certainly get a reduction in sound transfer, though not total sound-proofing
I hope this helps! The issue of the air-conditioning unit is quite an obstacle, but perhaps you can find a way
Great video! Question though - what magnetic tape/steel tape width do you use?
Thanks! The standard tape width is 1.25cm. One firm is also offering double-width tape, though using two widths of standard tape would do a similar job. Best of luck!
Excellent explainer video! May I ask did you experiment with acrylic and polycarbonate sheets? As they bothcommonly available, clear, strong, and sold for secondary glazing?
Thank you! I looked into polycarbonate vs acrylic, and as far as I can see the only relevant benefit of polycarbonate over acrylic is that it's bullet-proof! (so it depends what sort of life-style you lead...) Otherwise it will simply be a matter of price - they'll both do an excellent job.
I did try PET, and that was a failure as PET is noticeably heavier than acrylic and the sheets just dropped off the windows.
Best of luck with your secondary glazing
PS I've looked again at my notes, and acrylic does seem to be less likely to get scratched, and is slightly clearer than polycarbonate.(Acrylic is clearer than glass!)
All the best
Does secondary glazing help with condensation? Great video. Thank you.
Thanks! Re condensation, yes, definitely; though - and this applies to heat loss too - much depends on draughtproofing the window first. If cold air is travelling into the gap between glass window and acrylic, you won't get condensation on the glass but you risk getting condensation on the acrylic itself, on the room side. But even if your windows are a bit difficult to draught-proof 100%, there'll still be a massive improvement. I hope that's useful!
All the best
Try final cleaning glazing with shaving foam - works on mirrors too.
Fantastic thank you
Thank you!
Really helpful video - thank you so much! A couple of questions: 1. Do you have any advice on how oversized acrylic sheet is best cut to the required size (e.g. Stanley knife scoring? Or some sort of saw?) 2. My window is in a deep wall recess - so I'd have no side access to the new panel. So, with the magnetic/steel holding the secondary panel on, how easy will it be to get the panel off both for summer use and/or in case of fogging building up over time?
Try a electric jig saw, and be sure to wear strong safety glasses, to protect your eyes from shards of acrylic when its been cut.
@@hut375 Thank you - I'll give it a go!
Hello - thank you for the kind words! I have cut acrylic sheet to size using a Stanley knife and steel ruler. With the ruler as guide, score the sheet deeply along a marked line Turn it over and score deeply exactly over the previous line. Place the sheet on a table with the scored line just beyond the edge, and press to snap it. I've also used a fine-blade saw for small pieces. The saw cut in particular will need the edges smoothing.
I have a deep-recessed window like yours; the sheet is just slightly smaller than the recess, and you just need to get a fingernail in at the top and pull, and it should just tip straight off into your hands.
Very good luck with your project!
I wonder whether this acrylic will also reduce the outside noise?
Hello - I've certainly found a reduction in outside noise, and so have several neighbours who have installed the same system. Several of their houses are right on the street, and they report a huge reduction of noise from traffic and pedestrians. I learn from published sources that the important thing is the width of the gap between the window-glass and the acrylic.
Some of the contributors to this thread who have installed the system have also noticed a good reduction in noise (see 'Sarah Elliott' 10 months ago and "Lokaz Film" 2 months ago), though "C C" 2 weeks ago hasn't found a big reduction in noise from the busy road outside his/her windows. It may be that the vibration and deep noise from heavy traffic is harder to keep out? (I'm not well up on noise insulation, as it's not an issue in my house.)
I hope that this is of some help! All the very best.
What a very helpful video...Thank you.
This is the sort of nice comment that makes it all worthwhile :-). Many thanks indeed.
Great instructional video, thank you.
Thank you so much for this video. I am looking for a cheap solution for noise and thermal insulation for my rented flat's windows. I read in one of your replies that this method is not adequate for windows that we wish to open. What would be the disadvantages of removing and replacing the secondary glazing regularly? And would there be an alternative to allow the windows to be opened? I like airing the rooms. Many thanks.
Hello - well, the only disadvantage of removing/replacing regularly would be the effort of removing/replacing; so it's a matter of deciding whether you're OK with that. (In winter, when I have my secondary glazing on, I open my front or back door for a bit if I want to air the room, but I realise that may not be an option for you) It's possible to put secondary glazing on individual panes so that you can still open them, though I tried that with sash windows and had trouble with the altered weight of the windows. With that option you lose some of the benefit of secondary glazing as there can still be draughts coming round the edge of the panes; but it might help with sound insulation. I hope that's of some help - sorry that I don't have an ideal solution!
@@ecolewes thank you. You helped me a lot as I wondered if removing/replacing would damage the magnetic strip after a few times. If damage is possible to occur on a longer term basis, then I would think that changing them to get the best outcome would be an option?
Thank you for your kindness :-)
@@ninunife5242 I only remove/replace mine a couple of times a year; the magnetic strip on the acrylic is still absolutely fine after a dozen years, but sometimes with older windows with uneven frame surfaces the steel strip starts to pull away from the frame in a few areas. I get some Liquid Nails/No More Nails and insert it into the pulled-away gap using a toothpick, and that does work well. It's really important to get streel strip with good-quality adhesive - check the price! Good adhesive is significantly more expensive than cheap adhesive. Best of luck!
thank you so much, I knew there must be a simple way to do this
Thanks! Good luck with the project.
Do the window latch and lift handle prevent the acrylic sheet from sitting flat on the frame ?
Hello - well, you do need to have a continuous flat surface on all 4 sides. I'd guess that your window latch and lift handle are on the window itself (the part(s) that you move), while the acrylic sheet will be attached to the fixed window surround. Sometimes existing latches/lift handles stick out a long way and would get in the way of the acrylic sheet; two possible answers - change the latches/handles for smaller ones, or put stripwood battens on the window surround to increase the distance between the window and the acrylic. I hope that helps?