I'm glad you're a good mechanic because you'll never make it as a [bare] foot model! 😄 On a more serious note, thanks for taking the time to make this video - EXTREMELY helpful. We've got a high-mileage TJ with an NV3550 and it is a bear to shift. Mercifully, I've purchased a core to rebuild and now have much better insight regarding what is wrong! Thanks again!
Gotta appreciate a guy who does shit right takes his times finds the actual problem and rectifies it. So many people now days with absolutely no common sense just throw parts at problems with the hit or miss attitude I frame off restored a 99 tj and swapped the ax15 for the nv3550 and got lucky and found one old stock from dealer never touched was still in original crate wrapped up in a blue bag with enough oil in it to fill the jeep with hahaha but hell yeah man I don't have not one problem with the trans but having hell finding the right clutch kit for my setup the stock 4.0 has been rebuilt to a 5.0 by stroke/bore/crank/rod/piston selection didn't want to just bore the hell out of it because that's what titan strokers sold me in a kit and it was trash
I only use LUK brand for clutches and hydraulics for stock applications which is #05-065. You might look at #05-901 which is their heavy duty version, otherwise you would he to get into the $300+ sets like centerforce.
Question - I have a 95 Cherokee 2dr with an AX15 thats in need of a rebuild. The previous owner destroyed the planetary gear in the t-case, sheered the teeth right off. As it stands, the pinion bearing is also in need of replacing. Anyways, the AX15 needs a rebuild, I have a kit for it. I also have an NV3550 that needs a rebuild, I have a kit for that too. Is it worth the trouble to install the NV3550? I do decent off roading and its my daily.. I live in the south west so think Death Vally and Mt Whitney. Its behind the stock 4.0. Any advice is appreciated.
Do not use the Nv3550... some parts are very hard to find, 1st/2nd gear are not available. I prefer the ax15 over the nv3550. most kits are very similar, the main and most important difference is the brand of the bearings. I ONLY use Japanese bearings. I would either buy another np231 or look for one in a junk yard. the tag on the rear case will indicate the year, the early units had a few upgrades.
On the end of your shaft there’s a small pin that looks like it’s pressed in. Is that the selector shaft rail pin? Is it solid? Is that there just to serve as a stop? I’m asking b/c I just found a pin that’s about that size and shape in the drain pan when I changed my trans fluid the other day. Trying to figure out my next move. Thanks!
That is a solid pin and it is driven in to shift rail like a roll pin. It's purpose is prevent over movement of the shift rail. as to what needs to be done next, in my opinion its always better and cheaper to fix the issue as soon as you notice it. I will add that these units are getting harder to build due to certain parts becoming impossible to find.
No new OEM parts available. I've heard bad reviews of some of the 3rd party parts, do you know which are good quality? I have a new-to-me used 3550 waiting to get my Jeep back on the road but it has the exact issue in this video. Especially 3-4 and some in 5-R also, so probably need new forks. Any you recommend?
For the Jeep unit there is no longer a 1st gear, 1st gear needle bearing, 2nd gear, 2nd gear needle bearing,so as long as your unit is not "jumping" out of those gears it should be fine to rebuild. I would suggest replacing all 3 shift forks if they are even a tiny bit tight. Ebay should have the forks but the nv3500 dodge,nv3500 chevy, and nv3550 jeep are all different so pay attention. The other thing with these units is the main bearings are made in Canada ( yea who knew) and they start to leave super fine black metal anytime after 100k miles so i f your going to open up the unit i would suggest new bearing kit also the bearing kits differ based on the diameter of the counter shaft journal they are either 30mm or 33mm. the only other item that i replace often are the sliders (1/2, 3/4, 5/r). if you plan on doing the rebuild your self i suggest watching a few videos, the main issue is without a holding fixture they are tough to get back together, i made mine, let me know if I can help answer any other questions
I know this is kind of a shot in the dark, and its must be annoying to get questions from people. But I have an 04 jeep tj 2.4cyl with the nv1500, it grinds and pops out of second, if I can get it into second. Its a new transmission, less than 200 miles *I had to buy a new one, and by the time I got around back to it due to military, the warranty was out of date* the pilot bearing was replaced, as was the clutch and the master clutch slave cylinder. Its completely undrivable aside from 1st gear in its current state. Any clue as to what it would be?
I have a Jeep with an NV3550. The transmission has 179,000. I have started double shifting it since 155,000. To make things a bit smoother to shift, I switched to one quart 10w30 and one quart ATF as manual transmission fluid. I am getting rather tired of the double clutching but it is quiet with the mixture of 10w30 and ATF. But without double clutching, I get a grind every time. I have been thinking of a Terminator AX-15. But with the double clutching the transmission will likely make it to 200,000+ miles. I am just getting tired of double clutching. It is like driving a semi. Am I just being lazy and should keep driving my double clutch transmission? Is it even worth fixing the NV3550? Or third, should I get the Terminator AX-15 transmission by Rockland Standard gear? I know New Venture Gear is now defunct. Parts will not be original replacement.
Its hard to say what condition the syncros are in verus the bearings. fluid is huge in these units. I ONLY use Redline MTL fluid, there is a chance that switching fluid will help but personally would bet you need a rebuild. When these units get age on them they start to flex and the end play changes add old syncros and you get shifting issues. I dont know much about the Terminator ax15 but you can buy rebuilt units for $1000(ish) and nre for $2000.
04 Silverado v6 5 speed NV3500. got it with 80K on it. When I first got it, downshifting into third gear was occasionally a PITA and as the miles have piled up its become more and more pronounced and frequent. Its at 322K now. First clutch went out at 220. when i did the clutch i replaced the fluid with recommended fluid. How many miles can I expect out of one of these???? When it gives me a problem going in third, i have to clutch, pull it into second, pull it into neutral, clutch, and then find third. If i drop one off for a look see would you rather drive it first, or could I just pull it and drop it by for a rebuild? other than this one problem, this trans appears to be working fine. If I bring it in, How long does one take to do?
These units are built by Mercedes and are a decent tranny. the main issue is using the wrong fluid and high mileage. in your case it sounds like 3rd syncro ring. Odds are it also has end play issues with high mileage on Canadian main Bearings. I also suggest getting them rebuilt as soon as you notice an internal issue, it prevents further wear on hard parts that normally dont go bad. for further questions you can send an email to Fairbanks4x4@gmail.com
The front half of the case comes off after the bolts and 2 snap rings on the front are off. The rear case has 2 bolts that are on the side and one snap that is on the output shaft. however once you try to take off the rear all of the internal parts will bind due to not having any support. There is a special holding fixture that is needed. I have been able to remove everything in the past without the holding fixture but its a pain. Depending on if its a dodge,chevy,or jeep you will also have a plug on the front case that is part of your detent and a roll pin in the shifter head that is on the rear case
I got a question I have this issue where second gear won’t let you in without grinding 75% of the time above 20mph or it will pop out on de accelerating in second with the nv 3550
anytime on an engagement the syncro should be slowing down the gear so you have a smooth transition with the slider on to that gear. once in gear the teeth of the slider and gear will hold it, if it jumps out then either those teeth have issues or there is an end play issue. These bearings from the factory are Canadian made and don't hold up well, they distribute fine black metal onto the drain plug magnet. FLUID is the #1 most important thing with these units, I only use RED LINE MTL. in your case a rebuild would be the only way to determine where the issue is, I doubt this can be fixed without opening it up
@@qmulley65 remove the floor shift boots and try again, if better then the boots( or console or floor) are creating interference. this happens with transfer case drops and shift boots that get stiff.
I'm glad you're a good mechanic because you'll never make it as a [bare] foot model! 😄
On a more serious note, thanks for taking the time to make this video - EXTREMELY helpful. We've got a high-mileage TJ with an NV3550 and it is a bear to shift. Mercifully, I've purchased a core to rebuild and now have much better insight regarding what is wrong! Thanks again!
Gotta appreciate a guy who does shit right takes his times finds the actual problem and rectifies it. So many people now days with absolutely no common sense just throw parts at problems with the hit or miss attitude I frame off restored a 99 tj and swapped the ax15 for the nv3550 and got lucky and found one old stock from dealer never touched was still in original crate wrapped up in a blue bag with enough oil in it to fill the jeep with hahaha but hell yeah man I don't have not one problem with the trans but having hell finding the right clutch kit for my setup the stock 4.0 has been rebuilt to a 5.0 by stroke/bore/crank/rod/piston selection didn't want to just bore the hell out of it because that's what titan strokers sold me in a kit and it was trash
I only use LUK brand for clutches and hydraulics for stock applications which is #05-065. You might look at #05-901 which is their heavy duty version, otherwise you would he to get into the $300+ sets like centerforce.
Awesome i never thought it could be too tight
I got a nv3500 doing the same thing to the point I can't pull or put it in gear an I believe it's the same problem thanks for the video man
I got the same problem was that the fix
Question - I have a 95 Cherokee 2dr with an AX15 thats in need of a rebuild. The previous owner destroyed the planetary gear in the t-case, sheered the teeth right off. As it stands, the pinion bearing is also in need of replacing. Anyways, the AX15 needs a rebuild, I have a kit for it. I also have an NV3550 that needs a rebuild, I have a kit for that too. Is it worth the trouble to install the NV3550? I do decent off roading and its my daily.. I live in the south west so think Death Vally and Mt Whitney. Its behind the stock 4.0. Any advice is appreciated.
Do not use the Nv3550... some parts are very hard to find, 1st/2nd gear are not available. I prefer the ax15 over the nv3550. most kits are very similar, the main and most important difference is the brand of the bearings. I ONLY use Japanese bearings. I would either buy another np231 or look for one in a junk yard. the tag on the rear case will indicate the year, the early units had a few upgrades.
On the end of your shaft there’s a small pin that looks like it’s pressed in. Is that the selector shaft rail pin? Is it solid? Is that there just to serve as a stop? I’m asking b/c I just found a pin that’s about that size and shape in the drain pan when I changed my trans fluid the other day. Trying to figure out my next move. Thanks!
That is a solid pin and it is driven in to shift rail like a roll pin. It's purpose is prevent over movement of the shift rail. as to what needs to be done next, in my opinion its always better and cheaper to fix the issue as soon as you notice it. I will add that these units are getting harder to build due to certain parts becoming impossible to find.
GEARBOX GARAGE Thanks! I guess it’s like that old Fram commercial: I can pay a little now, or a lot later...
No new OEM parts available. I've heard bad reviews of some of the 3rd party parts, do you know which are good quality? I have a new-to-me used 3550 waiting to get my Jeep back on the road but it has the exact issue in this video. Especially 3-4 and some in 5-R also, so probably need new forks. Any you recommend?
For the Jeep unit there is no longer a 1st gear, 1st gear needle bearing, 2nd gear, 2nd gear needle bearing,so as long as your unit is not "jumping" out of those gears it should be fine to rebuild. I would suggest replacing all 3 shift forks if they are even a tiny bit tight. Ebay should have the forks but the nv3500 dodge,nv3500 chevy, and nv3550 jeep are all different so pay attention. The other thing with these units is the main bearings are made in Canada ( yea who knew) and they start to leave super fine black metal anytime after 100k miles so i f your going to open up the unit i would suggest new bearing kit also the bearing kits differ based on the diameter of the counter shaft journal they are either 30mm or 33mm. the only other item that i replace often are the sliders (1/2, 3/4, 5/r). if you plan on doing the rebuild your self i suggest watching a few videos, the main issue is without a holding fixture they are tough to get back together, i made mine, let me know if I can help answer any other questions
Also i suggest using Redline MTL fluid
I know this is kind of a shot in the dark, and its must be annoying to get questions from people. But I have an 04 jeep tj 2.4cyl with the nv1500, it grinds and pops out of second, if I can get it into second. Its a new transmission, less than 200 miles *I had to buy a new one, and by the time I got around back to it due to military, the warranty was out of date* the pilot bearing was replaced, as was the clutch and the master clutch slave cylinder. Its completely undrivable aside from 1st gear in its current state. Any clue as to what it would be?
What fluid is in it
I have a Jeep with an NV3550. The transmission has 179,000. I have started double shifting it since 155,000. To make things a bit smoother to shift, I switched to one quart 10w30 and one quart ATF as manual transmission fluid. I am getting rather tired of the double clutching but it is quiet with the mixture of 10w30 and ATF. But without double clutching, I get a grind every time. I have been thinking of a Terminator AX-15. But with the double clutching the transmission will likely make it to 200,000+ miles. I am just getting tired of double clutching. It is like driving a semi. Am I just being lazy and should keep driving my double clutch transmission? Is it even worth fixing the NV3550? Or third, should I get the Terminator AX-15 transmission by Rockland Standard gear? I know New Venture Gear is now defunct. Parts will not be original replacement.
Its hard to say what condition the syncros are in verus the bearings. fluid is huge in these units. I ONLY use Redline MTL fluid, there is a chance that switching fluid will help but personally would bet you need a rebuild. When these units get age on them they start to flex and the end play changes add old syncros and you get shifting issues. I dont know much about the Terminator ax15 but you can buy rebuilt units for $1000(ish) and nre for $2000.
04 Silverado v6 5 speed NV3500. got it with 80K on it. When I first got it, downshifting into third gear was occasionally a PITA and as the miles have piled up its become more and more pronounced and frequent. Its at 322K now. First clutch went out at 220. when i did the clutch i replaced the fluid with recommended fluid. How many miles can I expect out of one of these???? When it gives me a problem going in third, i have to clutch, pull it into second, pull it into neutral, clutch, and then find third. If i drop one off for a look see would you rather drive it first, or could I just pull it and drop it by for a rebuild? other than this one problem, this trans appears to be working fine. If I bring it in, How long does one take to do?
These units are built by Mercedes and are a decent tranny. the main issue is using the wrong fluid and high mileage. in your case it sounds like 3rd syncro ring. Odds are it also has end play issues with high mileage on Canadian main Bearings. I also suggest getting them rebuilt as soon as you notice an internal issue, it prevents further wear on hard parts that normally dont go bad. for further questions you can send an email to Fairbanks4x4@gmail.com
Спасибо тебе добрый человек !👍🇺🇸
But how did you get the case off 😭
The front half of the case comes off after the bolts and 2 snap rings on the front are off. The rear case has 2 bolts that are on the side and one snap that is on the output shaft. however once you try to take off the rear all of the internal parts will bind due to not having any support. There is a special holding fixture that is needed. I have been able to remove everything in the past without the holding fixture but its a pain. Depending on if its a dodge,chevy,or jeep you will also have a plug on the front case that is part of your detent and a roll pin in the shifter head that is on the rear case
I got a question I have this issue where second gear won’t let you in without grinding 75% of the time above 20mph or it will pop out on de accelerating in second with the nv 3550
anytime on an engagement the syncro should be slowing down the gear so you have a smooth transition with the slider on to that gear. once in gear the teeth of the slider and gear will hold it, if it jumps out then either those teeth have issues or there is an end play issue. These bearings from the factory are Canadian made and don't hold up well, they distribute fine black metal onto the drain plug magnet. FLUID is the #1 most important thing with these units, I only use RED LINE MTL. in your case a rebuild would be the only way to determine where the issue is, I doubt this can be fixed without opening it up
@@gearboxgarage Ended up swaping in redline mtl now i have developed where it will on accel slam its self out of second gear
@@qmulley65 remove the floor shift boots and try again, if better then the boots( or console or floor) are creating interference. this happens with transfer case drops and shift boots that get stiff.
Have to give you a citation for driving without shoes.. 😂😂😂😂
It's better than having a flip-flop Fatality.... lol
@@gearboxgarage Amen to that.. 😂😂😂👍