What most people don't appreciate is that "grinding gears" isn't damaging the actual gears that transmit power, but the dog teeth on the synchro system.
Makes me appreciate that big truck transmissions generally do not have synchronized gearsets. I had to rebuild an entire transmission when someone had broken the main output shaft in one. No books, no drawings, nothing but brute competence. I will say, the way that they are made with dual or triple countershafts, the design is ingenious. The input and output shaft are only connected by a pilot bearing. The fact that the main output was snapped into two pieces, and the transmission didn’t fly apart is testament to the designer! The countershafts held the gears in their proper location, even though the shaft was toast! No synchronization there, just a good gear matching hand was required!
I have a Kawasaki motorcycle and the factory service manual chapter on repairing the transmission has one line about " paying attention to the mating dogs ". Made me chuckle.
@Franky997 grinding gears on old stuff like '47 chevy, farmall tractors, or cub cadet lawn mowers does damage the actual gear teeth. The whole gear slides to engage
I wish teachers at school would teach the same way. Amazing video with lots of different presentations, I don't think this could be explained any better than this!!!
I have overhauled countless gearboxes, measuring gaps and replacing parts, but this is the best explanation of how a gearbox works that I have ever seen.
Would be good to explain that the synchro ring is made of brass hence it's gold color. Brass is softer and is sacrificial meaning it will eventually wear out and need replacement. Brass is the perfect companion metal to press against the hard steel gear and do no damage to it as it tries to either speed it up or slow it down so the the synchro hub can slide over and complete the lockup. It's important to remember that the synchronizer assembly must adjust the speed of the entire cluster gear and input shaft including clutch disc in order to perform the lockup into the selected gear. Quite a task and shows why you must have clean clutch release so that the disc is completely free to rotate. This is a very good video, especially with the gear train illuminated with the strobe light to show what happens.
Thank you for your good comments. You are correct. One note. although these blocker rings are brass there are other blocker rings made of other materials and sometimes either lined with a friction material similar to brake lining and others that use a bi-metal design with a sintered metal inner cone that is soft with a high coefficient friction. I will consider a followup video with this additional information.
@@Franky997Can confirm that because some years ago I worked for a company that made synchromesh rings for many of the major European car manufacturers. Selector forks were also made from phosphor bronze, but of a different grade.
This is terrific. Details like the back cut on the engagement teeth on both the synchronizer sleeve and the speed gear, are new to me. This is shown under magnification at 2:15, and is easily missed when you have the parts in your hand. This back cut is what holds the two parts together under load, and prevents the car from popping out of gear. When an older transmission pops out of gear people will tell you with authority and confidence: 'oh, the synchronizer rings are bad'. But the synchro rings have little to do with this function. However when this tiny back cut, on on the engagement teeth of the speed gear or the synchronizer sleeve is worn away, there is nothing left to hold speed gear and sleeve together. In this case a new set of synchro rings will do nothing to fix the problem. And that is very much worth knowing.
Thank you for your comments. Please note that the back cut is not present on all synchronizer sleeves and gears. I see it missing mostly on older transmission designs. There are several reasons why a transmission will jump out of gear and worn out back cut is one of them. Normally what happens is the oil is not changed when it should be and or the driver is rough on the transmission and the blocker rings start to wear causing grinding (gear clash) which in turn chews up the clutching teeth on the gear and on the sleeve which wears away the back cut. It's often a domino effect.
Yes. He really has all the fine details down. Gear boxes for Spec Miata racing are rebuilt all the time. However the re-builds tend to have problems. If a rebuilder replaces the bearings, the brass synchro rings, and the seals then the gearbox will shift into gears easily and the box will hold oil, but will it stay in gear? Apparently if the back-cut (2:15 in the video) on the engagement teeth between speed gear and synchro sleeve are worn, these parts need to be replaced too. Someone who is simply installing a 'rebuild kit' will miss this.
As the sleeve moves towards the speed gear, the keys weakly push the blocking ring ahead until the conical friction surfaces make contact. The resulting frictional torque rotates the blocking ring so that it's teeth are 1/4 tooth pitch misaligned with the sleeve teeth which causes contact of the teethes' angled surfaces. This is called "energizing". As well as causing the blocking teeth to block the sleeve, the sleeve can now apply a strong force to the blocking ring via the tooth contact, increasing friction and synchronizing torque.
Thank you! The demonstration of the synchro in action at 7:00 helps it all make sense. (The first part of the video is the nitty gritty of what makes it work. The demo shows it in action.)
Drivemaster, you're the best Master. My language is Portuguese, but I didn't understand the Brazilian videos and I understood your video. I didn't understand how the synchronized ring works but thank for you, I understand now.
The best video for ASE, I watched this video 2 times before the test and still didn't pay enough attention. This video need to be watch 3 times for ASE manual transmission test
That is so cool to see it working like it should. My KW T800 has an 8LL and its synchroniser has been very noisy since the heat exchanger went bad and got water into the transmission.
@@DrivelineMaster I just have changed the incorrect 90 wt for 50 wt motor oil. That by its self worked wonders. It made it possible to where the gear shift would actually move the gears in and out. Before that I could take it out of gear and it would stay in gear. It did that one morning until the oil got warm. I ran it all day, came in and drained that 90 wt while hot and its been better ever since. Everything but the synchroniser. So mine is not slowing the gear down when all that noise is going on? I wonder if the air shifter could be sticky somehow?
Unless the manufacture says you can use motor oil instead of GL4 or GL5 gear oil I wouldn't leave the 50st motor oil in your transmission. 90wt gear oil is not the same as it would be if it was 90wt motor oil. The way they measure thickness for gear oil is different than motor oil. Once again I would recommend the Redline MFT. I know it cost more but it is worth it. Unless your transmission was designed to work with motor oil (like some honda's) you will end up damaging your transmission and costing you more $$$ in the long run.
@@DrivelineMaster It calls for 50 wt engine oil. Granted Synthetic would be better but we just had a cracked head replaced at 6,389.00 on the truck and now the compressor has blown apart on the other truck leaving us stuck with a core fee. Cat wants 1,500.00 just for the core fee alone. Fleet Pride got us a refurbished for little over a grand and no core charge.
As long as the factory specification is 50wt engine oil then that is what you should use and have confidence that you won't cause any damage. This is the first trans that I know about that uses 50 wt straight motor oil.
Question: Since the small clutching teeth is what mechanically locks the free spinning speed gear to the shaft and actually transfers the power why dont we see more of those stripped vs the actually gear teeth on high powered cars? It looks like it has much less material engagement would seem to be the weak link. I would also think the narrow sleeve that couples the two together would be prone to strip out before the actual speed gear teeth would strip under high power.
1) the small clutching teeth are already 95% in alignment with the teeth on the gear before the sleeve is allowed to slide onto the gear so there is no grinding. This is accomplished by the proper operation of the blocker ring. When the blocker ring becomes worn out and can no longer perform properly that is when the clutching teeth start the grind during the shift. This is the grinding noise that can be heard by the driver between shifts and is called gear clash. The reason these tiny teeth can handle the torque comes from the total surface area contact between the gear and the sleeve. The number of teeth and the length of the teeth determine the total contact surface area. I'm not an engineer but this is something that has to be engineered into the design. They must determine the maximum torque that the synchronizer and gear would have to be able to handle and how much contact is needed.
Between two gears, only one tooth on each gear is engaged with the other gear at any time. Between the parts of the synchronizer assembly, all of those small teeth are engaged at the same time, spreading the load out between them. Many small teeth are as strong as one large tooth.
After several videos trying to figure this out, I finally get it. Excellent video. Now I wonder if there would be other ways to slow shaft/gear speed. Synchro's are spendy parts "labor wise" to replace. I also wonder what fluid would cause the least amount of wear & still give satisfactory shifting.
I don't want to give the wrong information. Most manual transmissions can not and should not use ATF. ATF can only safely be used in a manual transmission if and only if the service information or owners manual says so. Never use ATF in a manual transmission unless it has been specified by the manufacture as an acceptable winter oil option.
Kids used to say they could drag race powershift as in brute force abuse without using the clutch, but the way the synchronizer is designed, this is impossible, because the harder you try to force a shift, the harder the synchro will ride up onto the cone and fight to prevent it
The first step is to buy the 5 speed conversion kit. It's $2k. Then you have to buy two gear sets ($500). The same co that makes the conversion kits also make a shifter that works with the 5 speed ($300). Find a mid 60s core trans to supply you with a few stock parts you will need.
Hi, so I have a problem with getting the car into 1st gear sometimes. It can be very hard to push it in but no grinding. This would suggest it's the blocker ring doing it's job and the synchroniser and main shaft gear aren't matching speeds. I've checked the slave and master clutch cylinder and I can't see anything that stands out. Do you have a clue what's going on. Shifting into all other gears seems fine. I also have to hold the clutch down for around 10 seconds before I can put the car into reverse without grinding gears. It just seems like a long time before the layby shaft slows down. Clutch actually feels solid and operating as it usually does. Any ideas.
A couple of questions when you have problems going into 1st. Is this when the vehicle is not moving or when downshifting while moving? or both? Have you tried replacing the lubricant with the recommend fluid? Because you said that you have to wait a good 10 seconds to shift into reverse makes me think you might have a spin down problem. This is where power from the engine continues to send power into the transmission input shaft even if the clutch pedal if fully pressed. What can happen is one of a few things. The clutch disk can stick to the flywheel, or the disk could bind on the input shaft and not slide away from the flywheel quickly enough, or the input shaft could be binding on the pilot bearing. All of these will delay clutch disengagement and cause hard shifting. I'm not sure what vehicle you have but I have had good luck using Redline Manual Transmission fluid solving shifting problems.
What most people don't appreciate is that "grinding gears" isn't damaging the actual gears that transmit power, but the dog teeth on the synchro system.
You are absolutely correct.
Makes me appreciate that big truck transmissions generally do not have synchronized gearsets.
I had to rebuild an entire transmission when someone had broken the main output shaft in one.
No books, no drawings, nothing but brute competence.
I will say, the way that they are made with dual or triple countershafts, the design is ingenious.
The input and output shaft are only connected by a pilot bearing.
The fact that the main output was snapped into two pieces, and the transmission didn’t fly apart is testament to the designer!
The countershafts held the gears in their proper location, even though the shaft was toast!
No synchronization there, just a good gear matching hand was required!
I have a Kawasaki motorcycle and the factory service manual chapter on repairing the transmission has one line about " paying attention to the mating dogs ". Made me chuckle.
Not if you have old stuff with slider gears
@Franky997 grinding gears on old stuff like '47 chevy, farmall tractors, or cub cadet lawn mowers does damage the actual gear teeth. The whole gear slides to engage
Best and only video of a synchronizer in live operation that I've seen.
This was really well explained. The video at the end really capped it off and pulled it all together for me. Thanks.
Using a strobe light to see gears at speed mesh, Brilliant!
Works just like a timing light
I wish teachers at school would teach the same way. Amazing video with lots of different presentations, I don't think this could be explained any better than this!!!
Really sir you said true thing
Given the hard job, its a reasonably good explanation.
I have overhauled countless gearboxes, measuring gaps and replacing parts, but this is the best explanation of how a gearbox works that I have ever seen.
Thanks for the compliment.
Would be good to explain that the synchro ring is made of brass hence it's gold color. Brass is softer and is sacrificial meaning it will eventually wear out and need replacement. Brass is the perfect companion metal to press against the hard steel gear and do no damage to it as it tries to either speed it up or slow it down so the the synchro hub can slide over and complete the lockup. It's important to remember that the synchronizer assembly must adjust the speed of the entire cluster gear and input shaft including clutch disc in order to perform the lockup into the selected gear. Quite a task and shows why you must have clean clutch release so that the disc is completely free to rotate. This is a very good video, especially with the gear train illuminated with the strobe light to show what happens.
Thank you for your good comments. You are correct. One note. although these blocker rings are brass there are other blocker rings made of other materials and sometimes either lined with a friction material similar to brake lining and others that use a bi-metal design with a sintered metal inner cone that is soft with a high coefficient friction. I will consider a followup video with this additional information.
We had some Mustangs rings made of paper! Replaced many.
@@Franky997Can confirm that because some years ago I worked for a company that made synchromesh rings for many of the major European car manufacturers.
Selector forks were also made from phosphor bronze, but of a different grade.
This is terrific. Details like the back cut on the engagement teeth on both the synchronizer sleeve and the speed gear, are new to me. This is shown under magnification at 2:15, and is easily missed when you have the parts in your hand. This back cut is what holds the two parts together under load, and prevents the car from popping out of gear. When an older transmission pops out of gear people will tell you with authority and confidence: 'oh, the synchronizer rings are bad'. But the synchro rings have little to do with this function. However when this tiny back cut, on on the engagement teeth of the speed gear or the synchronizer sleeve is worn away, there is nothing left to hold speed gear and sleeve together. In this case a new set of synchro rings will do nothing to fix the problem. And that is very much worth knowing.
Thank you for your comments. Please note that the back cut is not present on all synchronizer sleeves and gears. I see it missing mostly on older transmission designs. There are several reasons why a transmission will jump out of gear and worn out back cut is one of them. Normally what happens is the oil is not changed when it should be and or the driver is rough on the transmission and the blocker rings start to wear causing grinding (gear clash) which in turn chews up the clutching teeth on the gear and on the sleeve which wears away the back cut. It's often a domino effect.
One of the best videos i have ever watched about synchro mechanism. Incredible presentation.
Thank you
Yes. He really has all the fine details down. Gear boxes for Spec Miata racing are rebuilt all the time. However the re-builds tend to have problems. If a rebuilder replaces the bearings, the brass synchro rings, and the seals then the gearbox will shift into gears easily and the box will hold oil, but will it stay in gear? Apparently if the back-cut (2:15 in the video) on the engagement teeth between speed gear and synchro sleeve are worn, these parts need to be replaced too. Someone who is simply installing a 'rebuild kit' will miss this.
Never understood how they worked until I watched this. Very well done.
Great video! Wonderful explanation. I especially appreciated the summary in the beginning of the three functions of the synchronizer.
Wow, using the strobe light to show synchronizer at work is brilliant! Thank you!
As the sleeve moves towards the speed gear, the keys weakly push the blocking ring ahead until the conical friction surfaces make contact. The resulting frictional torque rotates the blocking ring so that it's teeth are 1/4 tooth pitch misaligned with the sleeve teeth which causes contact of the teethes' angled surfaces. This is called "energizing". As well as causing the blocking teeth to block the sleeve, the sleeve can now apply a strong force to the blocking ring via the tooth contact, increasing friction and synchronizing torque.
The ability or willing to show what you explaining just earned you a subscriber.
A great video , actually had doubts about the internal shafts used and the sleeve and gear engagement but this video had it all covered
Fantastic presentation!....Great technical detail & functional explanation! Strobe light visual on the Rotating System really brought-it-all- together! Thank you!
Great video and the strobe light showing the operation was brilliant thanks from Canada
Excellent video, thank you. You just filled up another small gap in my mechanical knowledge.
Thank you!
The demonstration of the synchro in action at 7:00 helps it all make sense. (The first part of the video is the nitty gritty of what makes it work. The demo shows it in action.)
Thank you for explaining & animating, this technology is becoming clearer, thank you
really nothing beats a good explanation and some actual footage or hands on with my actual hands. ty for this.
Really good, well explained and easy to understand demonstration. Thanks for making and sharing this video
Thanks for the video! An excellent explaination,best on YT for gears.
Awesome Presentation, now I understand how this really works!
Thanks,,,great informative vedio of the operations
Somebody needed to show this video to my old '67 VW bug.
¡EXCELLENT MASTER CLASS AND GREAT TEACHER GREETINGS FROM LIMA PERU!
Brilliant idea with the strobe light. Thanks!
very good explanation. The only video I found that explains the synchronizing gear in great detail
I'm glad this worked out for you.
Very good explanation of this mechanism. Thank you a bunch for your time and experience! 👍👍
Excellent job on the video, structured and explained perfectly and pleasure watching
Drivemaster, you're the best Master. My language is Portuguese, but I didn't understand the Brazilian videos and I understood your video. I didn't understand how the synchronized ring works but thank for you, I understand now.
Your Welcome
Its Amazing teach Video I Ever Seen. Good Jobs
The best video for ASE, I watched this video 2 times before the test and still didn't pay enough attention. This video need to be watch 3 times for ASE manual transmission test
Why the test, if you don't mind me asking???
Liked the way you tried everything to make us get the idea, thanks
That strobe demo was great
Great fucken video don't give up you'll be up to 1 million subscribers soon. Best of luck and thanks for making things clear and simple to understand
Excellent video and explanation of how this works... Thank you...
Still the best video on UA-cam on this subject
Thank you. This is one of my top videos.
awesome video, very well explained! many thanks
Thanks for sharing what you know with us brilliant video tutorial amazing
From Nick Ayivor from London England UK 🇬🇧
Great with strobe, I had a 1958 Mack truck when I was young no syncro’s man you had to shift just right, you get used to it. Great video
Thank You for this video. Very informative.
Wow!!!! That was awesome 👌 thanks you so much for posting.
Simply beautiful 👌
Thanks for the video! Helped me study.
Thanks you, excellent video and explanation.
i want to use this to make a fixed gear / free wheel bicycle hub! never understood this before thank you!
Applause! Real gentlemen applaud this good video!
Very nicely explained!
Thanks for the such a nice explanatary video...
Wow, did I just learn something today!!!! Thanks!!!
awesome explanation
Thank you
Amazing video thanks alot hope u r having a beautiful life ❤
This video was great!!! Thank you for it.
Beautiful video sir.
⭐fantastic video, thanks..!
gotta love the reverb on the voice
very informative; thank you.
Well explained bravo
Very informative 👍👍
thank you for its very explained and
helpful
Excellent video!
Damn fine job on the strobe use!
Great video. Thank you
Exceptional video. Thank You!
John Smith from Plymouth, MI?
Marvelous! Thank you so much!
Great video
excellent description of the synchronizer but I wish you talked a bit more about the locking keys and springs and the purpose they serve
They are not locking keys. They are synchronizer keys. They transfer the force between the sleeve to the blocker ring.
Great clear video thank you
You did phenomenal work putting this together and your explanations. Learned a few things.
Glad you enjoyed it and found it of value.
Fantastic video. Thanks!
Thank you great explanation
This was absolutely awesome these videos should be in schools to teach students
They are used in all my classes.
Thanks very well explained 🙏🙏🙏
thank you, sir.
this is highly useful!!
thank you for showing this !
WONDERFUL MY MAN. I DID NOT UNDERSTAND THIS BEFORE BUT NOW I HAVE THE GUTS TIO GO OPEN GEARBOX. LOL
MOSHITOA ( S AFRICA)
Woo, this time Manual Transmissions. If i literally had an instructor that taught like this I think it'd go into my head alot easier :P
That is a very cool visual.
Now THAT is some high tech mechanical engineering!
That is so cool to see it working like it should. My KW T800 has an 8LL and its synchroniser has been very noisy since the heat exchanger went bad and got water into the transmission.
Try Changing the oil and put Redline Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF) in it. This stuff does wonders sometimes.
@@DrivelineMaster I just have changed the incorrect 90 wt for 50 wt motor oil.
That by its self worked wonders. It made it possible to where the gear shift would actually move the gears in and out. Before that I could take it out of gear and it would stay in gear. It did that one morning until the oil got warm. I ran it all day, came in and drained that 90 wt while hot and its been better ever since. Everything but the synchroniser.
So mine is not slowing the gear down when all that noise is going on?
I wonder if the air shifter could be sticky somehow?
Unless the manufacture says you can use motor oil instead of GL4 or GL5 gear oil I wouldn't leave the 50st motor oil in your transmission. 90wt gear oil is not the same as it would be if it was 90wt motor oil. The way they measure thickness for gear oil is different than motor oil. Once again I would recommend the Redline MFT. I know it cost more but it is worth it. Unless your transmission was designed to work with motor oil (like some honda's) you will end up damaging your transmission and costing you more $$$ in the long run.
@@DrivelineMaster It calls for 50 wt engine oil. Granted Synthetic would be better but we just had a cracked head replaced at 6,389.00 on the truck and now the compressor has blown apart on the other truck leaving us stuck with a core fee. Cat wants 1,500.00 just for the core fee alone. Fleet Pride got us a refurbished for little over a grand and no core charge.
As long as the factory specification is 50wt engine oil then that is what you should use and have confidence that you won't cause any damage. This is the first trans that I know about that uses 50 wt straight motor oil.
Thank you for this!
This video is clear my concept
I'm getting ready to rebuild my gearbox, so I'm learning as much as I can.
Que bueno señor gracias.
That was pretty interesting. I never knew how any of that worked.
Homie sounds like Kermit the frog
Super goood video thanks
Question: Since the small clutching teeth is what mechanically locks the free spinning speed gear to the shaft and actually transfers the power why dont we see more of those stripped vs the actually gear teeth on high powered cars? It looks like it has much less material engagement would seem to be the weak link. I would also think the narrow sleeve that couples the two together would be prone to strip out before the actual speed gear teeth would strip under high power.
1) the small clutching teeth are already 95% in alignment with the teeth on the gear before the sleeve is allowed to slide onto the gear so there is no grinding. This is accomplished by the proper operation of the blocker ring. When the blocker ring becomes worn out and can no longer perform properly that is when the clutching teeth start the grind during the shift. This is the grinding noise that can be heard by the driver between shifts and is called gear clash. The reason these tiny teeth can handle the torque comes from the total surface area contact between the gear and the sleeve. The number of teeth and the length of the teeth determine the total contact surface area. I'm not an engineer but this is something that has to be engineered into the design. They must determine the maximum torque that the synchronizer and gear would have to be able to handle and how much contact is needed.
Between two gears, only one tooth on each gear is engaged with the other gear at any time.
Between the parts of the synchronizer assembly, all of those small teeth are engaged at the same time, spreading the load out between them.
Many small teeth are as strong as one large tooth.
thanks, very helpful!
thanks so much for this video
After several videos trying to figure this out, I finally get it. Excellent video. Now I wonder if there would be other ways to slow shaft/gear speed. Synchro's are spendy parts "labor wise" to replace. I also wonder what fluid would cause the least amount of wear & still give satisfactory shifting.
Unless a specialized fluid is specified and the spec is 75w-90 or 80w-90 GL4 I really like Redline Manual Transmission Fluid (MTF)
Good ole stinky 80-90 gear lube is the highest temp rated fluid
Up here in MN maybe a 75-85 would be a good choice. I think up in the cold states an ATF is hard to beat. @@DrivelineMaster
I don't want to give the wrong information. Most manual transmissions can not and should not use ATF. ATF can only safely be used in a manual transmission if and only if the service information or owners manual says so. Never use ATF in a manual transmission unless it has been specified by the manufacture as an acceptable winter oil option.
Love that video thx
nice vedio
thank u
That was great!
Love you mannn!!!!
Kids used to say they could drag race powershift as in brute force abuse without using the clutch, but the way the synchronizer is designed, this is impossible, because the harder you try to force a shift, the harder the synchro will ride up onto the cone and fight to prevent it
Great great. It will helpme to modify my 1975 vw bug trans to 5 speed.
The first step is to buy the 5 speed conversion kit. It's $2k. Then you have to buy two gear sets ($500). The same co that makes the conversion kits also make a shifter that works with the 5 speed ($300). Find a mid 60s core trans to supply you with a few stock parts you will need.
Hi, so I have a problem with getting the car into 1st gear sometimes. It can be very hard to push it in but no grinding. This would suggest it's the blocker ring doing it's job and the synchroniser and main shaft gear aren't matching speeds. I've checked the slave and master clutch cylinder and I can't see anything that stands out. Do you have a clue what's going on. Shifting into all other gears seems fine. I also have to hold the clutch down for around 10 seconds before I can put the car into reverse without grinding gears. It just seems like a long time before the layby shaft slows down. Clutch actually feels solid and operating as it usually does. Any ideas.
A couple of questions when you have problems going into 1st. Is this when the vehicle is not moving or when downshifting while moving? or both? Have you tried replacing the lubricant with the recommend fluid? Because you said that you have to wait a good 10 seconds to shift into reverse makes me think you might have a spin down problem. This is where power from the engine continues to send power into the transmission input shaft even if the clutch pedal if fully pressed. What can happen is one of a few things. The clutch disk can stick to the flywheel, or the disk could bind on the input shaft and not slide away from the flywheel quickly enough, or the input shaft could be binding on the pilot bearing. All of these will delay clutch disengagement and cause hard shifting. I'm not sure what vehicle you have but I have had good luck using Redline Manual Transmission fluid solving shifting problems.