INSULATING OUR FORD TRANSIT DIY CAMPER VAN CONVERSION
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- Опубліковано 13 сер 2022
- Insulation in a camper van conversion is a simple concept. Don't overthink it. Here's how we installed ours.
Buy your Thinsulate from a small business: unakagearco.com/collections/i...
Or if you'd rather buy it from good 'ol Jeff: amzn.to/3AhCJlB
Spray Adhesive: amzn.to/3QKezW2
➤Shop the EXPLORIST.life Store: shop.explorist.life
➤Shop Battle Born Batteries: battlebornbatteries.com?afmc=explorist_bb67
➤Binge the Transit Van Build: • The Ultimate Camper Va...
Here are some additional resources that you may find helpful with planning and installing your DIY Camper:
➤DIY Sprinter Camper Van Electrical Install - Full Tutorial: • DIY Sprinter Camper Va...
➤DIY Camper Solar Wiring Diagrams: www.explorist.life/solarwirin...
➤How to Perform a Power Audit: • How Much Solar Power D...
➤Basic Parts & Components of an Electrical System: • Basic Solar Parts Need...
➤How to Cut Wire: www.explorist.life/how-to-cut...
➤How to Strip Wire: • How to Strip Wire from...
➤How to Crimp Wire: • How To Crimp Wire Lugs...
➤How to Make MC4 Connectors: • How To Make MC4 Connec...
➤How to Wire Solar Panels in Series-Parallel: • How to Wire Solar Pane...
➤How to Crimp Wire Ferrules: • How to Crimp Ferrules ...
➤How to Wire an AC/DC Breaker/Fuse Box: www.explorist.life/how-to-wir... - Авто та транспорт
You always do a good job mentioning the small details and anticipating questions in your description!
I appreciate that! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for spending the time to make another very informative video! You guys are awesome!!!
This is a SERIOUS floor! OMG .. .well done!!!!!! Thank you (from Melbourne Australia)
Great professional video. I'm always impressed with your guys work, simple quick but so valuable.
Hey, Kurtis Smith! I appreciate that. Thanks for watching! 🙂😀
I want to thank you for that one video where you showed the wire connectors I got some of them and it made my wiring a whole lot easier thank you very much I will probably be getting some of this insulation again thank you
Awesome! Glad it helped!
Amazing job quality .... You are number one .
Glad it was helpful. Cheers!
Thinsulate is the easiest to work with ! Nice job !
It really is. It was so much easier and faster than the rigid foam we used in our last Sprinter build.
A rotary fabric cutter is so much easier to cut Thinsulate than scissors. We started with scissors
and once we went to the rotary cutter cutting was 100% easier.
We got some spray adhesive in our rotary cutter, which deemed it... less than useful... 😂🤣🤷
Tedious for sure! Looks great guys
Thanks 👍
Great video! Would love to see a video on vapor barriers from you guys, pros/cons and whatnot. Seems like a really hotly debated topic we could use a good explanation on.
There's not really a way to achieve a true vapor barrier on a van since there are too many holes, so we don't bother.
Awesome workmanship
Thanks 👍
Fantastic!
Many thanks!
3m Thinsulate was actually the 2nd type of insulation installed in this van. We already sprayed ceramic thermal insulation back in episode 10. Here's that video: ua-cam.com/video/6w5b2ewYn2M/v-deo.html
*Buy your Thinsulate from a small business here* : unakagearco.com/collections/insulation/products/3m-sm600l-thinsulate-insuation?variant=43115315822811/?dt_id=105323
*Or if you'd rather buy it from good 'ol Jeff:* amzn.to/3AhCJlB
*Spray Adhesive:* amzn.to/3QKezW2
Awesome video, as always, thanks for the build series, it really helps with insight for my own build. I do have a question though, how will the 3m Thinsulate fare if we don't do the ceramic thermal insulation? Does it help with condensation if you spray glue it to the walls of the van?
The way you did the insulation is brilliant! We’re you able to notice if the thinsulate expanded as it should with the black side to the wall?
Could you do a video focused on just the L tracks and why that might be an option to consider?
Now that is an insulation video, with a number of things I hadn't thought of. Great job! My identical van will be getting the same treatment this winter. I'm curious how you insulated the rear doors and the slider?
Thanks! Glad it helped. Rear doors and slider was pretty much the same as the walls. Just patch-work the insulation in behind all of the electrical and door mechanisms so the body panels are covered while leaving the mechanical stuff exposed to work on if necessary.
Thank u Guy's Sorry i late when away for a few Days See u Next Week Take Care
No worries! Thanks for tuning in! 🙂👍
Great job
Thanks! 🙂
Awesome series! Any reason why expanding foam shouldn’t be used in the ribs?
Hey Nate, what would you recommend doing first. Running wire or installing insulation?
You mentioned also using Reflectix and rigid foam at the beginning of the video but never saw them used
Haha! Good catch. We had a few spots we were planning on using them, but then changed our mind halfway through the process. We used rigid foam in the wheel well boxes we made, but that's another video.
I love Wago connectors.
Yeah, super nice.
Oooops. Never mind. Commented before the entire vid was done. 😮
Nice summary walk through. Toward the front If the Van I noticed you removed the foam blobs. I also asked this question on you “walls” video.
I thought the foam blobs were needed as part of the airbags. Do you have a video removing blobs?
We haven't talked about that in any videos just yet. Removing them was simply yanking them off of the wall. They are only secured with a trim clip.
Where if any place, did you use the reflectix?
Nice work. Really appreciate all the tutorials you guys make, it helps me think maybe I can do it too. Off subject did ya get some new ink on your hands?
Thanks so much! I did get some new ink. Mountain and a tree on my thumb and pinky fingers for outdoors & mountain sports. New York Hook (firefighting tool) on my index for my time in as a firefighter. Rabbit Ears geologic formation on my middle finger, which is symbolic of where we live; and then the symbols for AC and DC power on my right ring finger. The turtle on the left ring finger is my 'wedding ring', since I don't like wearing rings.
@@EXPLORISTlife very cool!
Thank you for being so generous with this information!! Above the cab you have two layers of insulation, is this including the lizard skin? When you put the cab cover over the thinsulate doesn't that compress it so it is not as effective?
Lizard skin + 2 layers of thinsulate.
I’m sorry for the spamming comments….my ceiling was already installed and don’t want to take entire thing down. Could I make an opening and just lay this between my ceiling and roof without adhesive? Think it would still work? I’m going to fish these thru my wall panels like you guys did your frames.
Hey guys I’m confused. The Amazon instructions for 3M Thinsulate show the black facing inward, opposite of what you guys did. I’m sure yours is correct, however can you confirm? Thank you
There is very similar insulation with silvered foil on both sides, would the silver not help to reflect a lot of heat from the metal? Seems like the black backing is doing the opposite. Or use the silver bubble sheet as a first layer before the thinsulate.
We could micro-analyze insulation forever. We just picked a way and went with it. It's going to work just fine, but insulation is incredibly boring to me so I simply can't get into the 'numbers' and micro-analyzing of what methods are the best-of-the-best. Thinsulate over Lizard Skin ceramic insulation will be perfectly adequate.
You two do amazing work. I live in Southern Utah in the St George area. Do you two take on jobs as you travel? I'd love to have you install a couple 100 watt panels a dc/ dc charger and mppt controller to replace the factory stuff I have. Just got 2 100 ah lithium batteries and want to have a system that will optimize this setup. Tha ks
Glad it has been helpful! Check this out: www.explorist.life/camper-electrical-install-services/
Thanks for sharing. Moving onto a Transit from the Sprinter?
Yep! Sold the sprinter last winter. Here's the playlist for the Transit build up 'till now: ua-cam.com/play/PLmvhcyi4n0TVfA4XCYJBkzfUXunSON1zX.html
Волокна накопичують вологу?
Корозія металу неминуча?
Would you consider using window and door frame foam just in the rib strips?
We did that in our Sprinter back in the day. It was significantly less messy to just use Thinsulate..
@EXPLORIST life - DIY Campers Is there a right way vs wrong way to apply thinsulate? I see other videos attach white to van as opposed to black. Thanks! Great video per usual. I like the idea of attaching white side to stare at black (looks better) knowing its going to take some time during build process to get the walls up.
Pay special attention to the 4:00 minute mark. 🙂👍
@@EXPLORISTlife ooppph thanks
Would there be any benefit to doubling up with the thinsulate? One side with the black to the exterior and one side to the interior.
Probably!
Did you end up using all 70 ft of insulation? I'm planning a similar build and was curious if that was enough or would you order differently if you did it again?
70ft was pretty perfect. By the last 5ft or so, we were looking for 'extra' places to stuff the insulation as everything was covered; which was pretty ideal.
Your opinion on Thisulate vs Havock Wool? Also, did you fill all the cavity spaces or just one strip per cavity?
Also a great product. Similar insulation properties where one is natural and one is synthetic. Thinsulate dries out a bit faster, but both are mold resistant. I'd choose either Thinsulate or Havelock wool over pretty much anything else.
Awesome video. Curious why did you guys decide on Thinsulate rather than spray foam?
In the video on the Lizardskin Insulation they mentioned not wanting to use spray foam because of the risk of damaging the panels, I'm the same haha
Is Thinsulate good for cold temperatures? What is the R value? I'm here in Canada where we often have extreme cold - as low as 12-15 degrees F - if not lower on some days.
Very good for cold weather. R-Value of 5.2 per layer. We live in cold weather as well here in Colorado. Highs in the negatives are common in Jan/Feb.
Nice series guys thank you so much. I would highly recommend using industrial mask and eyewear with the 3M 90 which is crazy toxic even in well ventilated areas.
Thanks for watching! Since we are giving unsolicited advice, it's important for you to keep in mind that we never asked for safety advice so I would highly recommend keeping that kind of stuff to yourself.
Unsolicited advice or not, if 10 000 viewers see the way you apply a toxic product without proper safety precautions than this becomes a public safety issue since other DIYers watching will arguably do the same. Be safe, that’s all I’m saying!😢
I'll never make everybody happy with my safety precautions. There are too many Osha nerds out there who always know better. If I wear a mask, I should have been wearing an SCBA. 🤷♂️😮💨 It's never 'safe enough', and it's goddamn exhausting being under the microscope of all of the safety Steve's of the world who always know better. If you don't like it, keep it to yourself. Better yet... start up your own channel about project safety. I'm sure that'll really take off. 🙄🙄
Another awesome video. Thanks for the any side out tip. I’m using thinsulate in my trailer conversion. Found out I only have a 1” cavity rather than the 1.5” for the thinsulate to expand into. I can fir out things. What are your thoughts on changes to the r-value and noise adsorption if thinsulate is confined to 1” vs room to expand fully? The side panels are glued on…how much do you think the thinsulate will push them out…seems like a constant pressure maybe problematic??
Maybe tabletop test it? I can't speak much on how much performance would be lost if you don't let it fully expand to manufacturers recommendation.
Thinsulate only has a k value of 0.039 w/m•k.
Thinsulate uses the formula- thickness x 12 inch square/ k value = R value
Thickness is measured in mm
K value is W/m•k
1 inch thick is 25mm
K value is 0.039
Size of test area is 12 inch square
So that’s a radius of 6 inch from center to the sides.
(0.025x 6) / 0.039 = 3.84
So the r value is 3.84 per inch
Note: other things like temp, humidity levels, etc effects r value so most companies list r value of materials lower then it might actually be just in case of environmental things that might impact it.
Headliner spray adhesives hold up better than 3M90 which is more for crafts, but specifically it doesn't melt poly/foam products like R-Tec for example. 3M makes a headliner spray, but it's $49 a can. Available at most large auto parts stores is Permatex, a similar product for $18 a can. High temp headliner spray adhesive holds up for years, under extreme heat conditions. Like the sun on your van roof.
Here are affiliate links to the 3M headliner spray amzn.to/3AldJd0 and to the permatex: amzn.to/3zVzpLv if anybody'd rather use that stuff instead. 3M 90 works perfectly for what we were using it for; but I'm sure there's always stickier adhesives.
Does this have any impact on the function of the airbags above the driver and passenger seats?
The insulation is above the airbags. I can't say for certain if it impacts it at all.
Which model of the FLIR thermal camera are you using? It was great to see how precise it can be to show potentially missed spots.
Yeah, it's pretty cool! It's the Flir One Pro: amzn.to/3Mc99RE We bought it specifically for testing the lizard skin ceramic insulation a few months back: ua-cam.com/video/Oe5HNmMlT8I/v-deo.html&lc It's been fun to have it around, though, for random stuff like this. Going to use it this winter around the house and find air leaks. 😂🤣
@@EXPLORISTlife LoL I just thought it was an app from the play store 🤣
@@chachi5975 Haha, I wish! Had to drop some coin on that one.
Are you satisfied with the insulation material you use? If you did it again, would you use the same materials? Have you considered using elastomeric rubber?
Satisfied, yes. Yes, would use it again.
Why not use the foil bubble type insulation ? Or even styro inso? Looking awesome so far
Tons of videos out there comparing and contrasting all of the different insulation types. After considering everything, we found the thinsulate to be the best choice for us. This stuff is literally made to be used as automotive insulation.
Of course you've done your homework we wouldn't expect anything less.
How has this held up for the last year? Anything you'd do differently? I'm about to build my van out.
Perfect.
Did you connect a thermal imaging device to your phone or is that an app?
It's a thermal imaging do-dad that plugs into my phone: amzn.to/3Mc99RE
I still respectively disagree with not going closed foam :) 600$ for 3inch was the best decision ive made on my build.
I'm really not too concerned on what you disagree with me on considering I don't know who you are and you aren't responsible for any of the negative outcomes that come from this build. 🤣👍 I'm absolutely ecstatic that it worked for you in your own personal project that I have no personal liability in if it had had negative results.
Per the manufacturer, can you "double" or "stack" the insulation on top of itself? I am currently insulating my bus right now and I have a weird size gap (bigger than the 1.5 inch thickness of the Thinsulate) and I wanted to know if I can lay pieces of Thinsulate ontop of one another, possible 2-3 times. Doesn't seem like it would be a problem, but what is your opinion? Thanks! Great video!
I never saw a manufacturer recommendation against that; so I figure that's just fine.
@@EXPLORISTlife I figured so but wanted to double check, Thank you!
what's the point of insulating inside the ribs which are essentially thermal bridges? most of the heat goes through the metal anyway
There are still convective currents that can happen in those ribs. Insulating stops those from happening.
Have you investigated Aerogel? One product for insulation, condensation etc; information on UA-cam and the internet.
Indeed I have. It's not readily available enough for me to install. I don't install/recommend stuff on this channel that isn't actually easily available to everybody.
I was waiting patiently for the rear doors and you never got there! The driver's side is pretty easy but what about the passenger side? Did you insulate under the plastic sheathing or just leave it factory sealed and not insulate that door or did you remove the panel and insert a similarly shaped piece of thinsulate like the front passenger door you showed? Insulating the doors is the one tricky part because of the mechanical and electronic mechanisms inside. But such large areas desperately need to be insulated. I'm having a lot of issues trying to figure out the best method. I'm spray foaming primarily, but inside the ribs has me 'worried' and inside all the doors...
BTW, thanks so very much for all your contributions to the community! Very, very helpful!
Thanks! Glad it helped. Rear doors and slider was pretty much the same as the walls. Just patch-work the insulation in behind all of the electrical and door mechanisms so the body panels are covered while leaving the mechanical stuff exposed to work on if necessary. We did indeed remove the plastic sheathing to access the inside of the doors.
@@EXPLORISTlife Thanks very much for adding that. Very helpful indeed, as per usual! :)
good job but for me this is soundproofing & you should wear a mask for gluing
Two things:
1-Thinsulate does indeed have soundproofing qualities
2-Never tell me what kind of PPE to use. If it were up to you OSHA nerds, we'd need a full coat of armor every time we looked at a tool box. We know the risks and take the precautions we feel necessary, so keep that stuff to yourself going forward.
Sorry if I missed it, but I was wondering about vapor barrier?
It's pretty much impossible to actually do a vapor barrier in a van. Too many holes and such.
@@EXPLORISTlife
Thank you for your quick reply.
I've been contemplating doing a DIY camper van and after stumbling upon your informative channel, this may become a reality.
However, being from a colder climate, I'm concerned about vapor, due point and condensation in my van walls. Of course these concerns are dependent on how the van is being used, but if a van is being operated in freezing temperatures over an extended period of time, condensation will most likely occur within the walls; if something isn't in place to control the vapor or handle the trapped condensation.
With my limited knowledge, I only see two possible solutions, vapor barrier or give the condensation someplace to go.
The possible problem with the vapor barrier, is the interior plastic and the outer metal skin will create two vapor barries, trapping humidity that can't easily escape.
Eliminating the interior vapor barrier will allow the bulk of the moisture to escape back into the van, when climatic conditions allow it. Although, if condensation is so severe it's running down the inside of the metal skin, I'll want to make sure there's drain holes at the bottom of the walls; if there isn't already.
Sorry for rambling on, but I'm not sure how to tackle this problem or where to get reliable information.
These are great videos. I'm in the planning process and they are extremely helpful. I will use your build as a blue print. Question; is all that Lizard skin necessary if you are installing insulation and a wood wall interior? It won't be quiet enough without the Lizard skin? I'm not a corner cutter, but it seems like a small return on time invested.
If you'll look back in the playlist for this build, you can watch two videos over the install and two videos over the reviews that I think will help you make that decision.
Hey Nate, curious to hear you thoughts on using a vapour barrier or not. From what I see, you choose not to. Obviously this is a controversial topic in the van building world but would love to hear you opinion on why or why you didn’t choose to use one?
Pretty much impossible to get a true vapor barrier in a van. Too many holes.
@@EXPLORISTlife that makes sense. So in your opinion if that’s the case, best not to even bother with a vapour barrier then?
Indeed.
Hi how do you handle airflow so you don't get moisture or mold?
Of course! Here is the video where we installed a vent fan: ua-cam.com/video/bOxl6IZvY2U/v-deo.html and here is a video where we installed windows: ua-cam.com/video/-u6nYDLOQ9s/v-deo.html
@@EXPLORISTlife Thank you
Hi do you not use a vapor barrier?
I'm loving this transit build series as it's not too different as to what I have in visioned for my transit build here in the UK .
Is the lizard skin acting as a vapor barrier?
There's no real way to achieve a true vapor barrier in a van. Too many holes and such.
@@EXPLORISTlife I to was wondering why you did not use a vapour barrier as there is a shed ton of information from other reputable van builders which say a vapour barrier is a MUST HAVE ! I would love to hear your reasoning why you didn't use one other than its too fiddley
@BritishGeezersAdventure-bt2cg There is no way to create a true moisture barrier in a van. Too many holes.
@@EXPLORISTlife Roll of Reflective and aluminium tape . take a look at posts by Greg Virgoe a man who spent his whole working life fighting condensation, you may find it interesting and informative.
@@BritishGeezersAdventure-bt2cg Ultimately, if you think a vapor barrier is attainable, a good idea, and what you want to do in your build; do that.
I don't think it's feasible, not a good idea, and not important to me so I'm going to omit that from my projects.
where do you buy the insulation from?
Check the pinned comment.
How has your experience been with moisture and mold in the walls with this type of insulation style? One thing that I have been reading about that isn't well understood, lots of conflicting info.
Avoiding moisture in the first place is the most important thing. Keeping a vent fan cracked while sleeping helps. Turning on the vent van while cooking helps. Having a heating/cooling system that doesn't introduce moisture into the van helps. Kicking snow off of boots before entering the van helps. Air drying wet swimsuits outside before bringing them in helps. Basically... as long as you're not lazy with bringing in wet things, and making sure the space is adequately ventilated it'll be fine. This is the same for all types of insulation.
If you are in a cold climate when the dew point is reached you WILL get condensation forming on the inside of the metal skin - unavoidable without a vapour barrier
@@luderick Sure, but the less moisture in the air, the less water there will be available to condense. A true moisture barrier in a van is pretty much impossible, so we just have to find alternative ways of dealing with it like building with proper ventilation and quick drying materials. 👍🙂
@@EXPLORISTlife so you will keep the windows open in winter?
@@luderick Windows, no... vent fan yes. That plus running the Espar heater keeps it warm and dry. This is how we managed in our Sprinter during our 3 winters we spent living it it full time in the Rockies snow skiing.
Why don’t you use spray foam insulation?
There is too big of a risk of warping the body panels and in the event we need body work done, most body shops won't touch something with spray foam on the inside.
Noico sound deadening on all big panels of sheet metal would substantially reduce even more road, loud campers, and wind noise. Not a big fan of anything that holds moisture in the walls and especially ceilings. Blown In Foam is the safest and it seals everything and leaves no place for black mold to accumulate from cooking or propane heaters, where condensation easily gets when cold outside... Yeah, it's a pain and/or expensive. But once you use it and Noico, you will never NOT install it again. Perfection is no accident!
We used LizardSkin sound dampening. There's a full video about it in the Transit build playlist.
I can't recommend blown in insulation as it has a tendency to warp body panels as it cures.
@@EXPLORISTlife Nobody would see it on the most important area... The roof, if it's even noticeable? And with Noico or Lizard Skin on the metal surface, even less of a chance of being more of a problem than black mold and rust where nobody will see it until too late. Everything being screwed to the skeleton adds tension as well with some level of spring load. Guess my best outcome priority list is different than yours. Cheers! Nobody on YT that has used spray foam ever mentioned any visible metal panel changes that I've seen!
Warping of the panels would absolutely be seen. Think of the side panels. In the event the panels are warped, it does indeed look terrible on the outside.
If YOU like the idea and are willing to take the risk, go for it. It's just not for everybody and definitely not something I can't advocate for on this channel.
I sent you an email llast month with a simple question; however, I received your automated response that ~ 90 % of the answers where contain within one of your videos. I understand the reasoning behind the automated responses, but I've been unable to locate the answer in any of the nearly 50 videos that I have watched as of today. My unanswered question is what software do you use to create your wiring layout designs? I have tried using Vision, SketchUp, Make, etc. without much luck. Currently, I'm using Excel and important small icons retrieved from the internet. While this a functionally solution, it doesn't compare to your drawings.
I use Microsoft Visio for all of my diagrams. 🙂👍
@@EXPLORISTlife. I have Visio as well, but unable to import into Visio. Can you tell me where you found it, or did you create a custom library?
Thank you for your quick response... I decided to just copy small PNG icon from various sources and paste them into my Visio drawing. (I'm a retired IT Professional and haven't used Visio in over a decade). Looking forward to more educational videos from you as I'm planning on upgrading our B+ RV from 200 watt solar / 1K inverter to a Battle Born BBGC3 batteries and Victron equipment. I'll plan on completing it this winter with the goal of going to New Mexico for the Hot Air Balloon festival next Fall for the ultimate test.
Have you done a video on using the Victron equipment using the auto generator start feature?
Wm
@@williamf8257 Most of my Visio graphics have been made by me over the last few years. I guess it's important to know that I likely have well over 1,000 in visio, so I've made a bunch of custom things over time.
Where did the reflectix and foam go?
Ended up not using reflectix. Foam went under our wheel well covers.
@@EXPLORISTlife in the front?
The back.
@@EXPLORISTlife I don't see any wheel well covers in the rear wheel wells. Are those aftermarket? Or do you mean over the wheel wells on the inside of the van?
@@oodlesofnoodles83 Maybe we showed those in the video we installed the walls. I dunno. Been a while since we uploaded this video and I don't remember what is in each one.
Wait, who was that other lady? Do you guys build as a job?
Grace? She is our Content Manager/Videographer/Editor. We run this UA-cam channel as our job and sell (most of) the parts that accompany the projects you see in the tutorials.
@@EXPLORISTlife Ms. Grace needs a raise 😆
Really surprised that you have opted for no vapour barrier- what is your reasoning?
We talked about that in this highlighted comment: ua-cam.com/video/a05Iz6jOJ1k/v-deo.html&lc=UgxbAK8IkltfQXQ_rIR4AaABAg
You are aware that truck cab restore companies use A-B Foam to insullate?
Truck cab restore companies aren't worrying about if the outside of the metal gets all wavy and looks like poop.
But regardless... if that's the direction you want to go in your own build; go for it. Arguing about the best insulation is AAAAaaaallmost the lowest thing on the things I have allowed myself to give a fuck about today. 😂🤷♂️
Snakesulate 🐍
🐍🐍🐍😂👍
For which climate or weather is this insulated?
I don't get it why people just stuff all the holes and leave so many bare metal. This is not covering everything.
Im doing the box in a box concept. So the insulation is 100% and no cold bridges.
I think your concept is not so good for winter camping. And just stuffing everything can ruin vans with rust if water can't get away.
Both winter and summer.
Stuffing insulation in the holes is to prevent convective currents inside of the ribs. The interior 'ribs' are already insulated but are also thermally isolated from outside of the van.
The concept is indeed good for winter camping. In previous vans, we've spent winters in the US and Canadian rockies and have seen temperatures as low as -40.
Water can indeed 'get away'.
The thing to understand is that there is always 'more' that can be done, but what we are doing is more than sufficient for the extreme cold travel we will be doing (adding a heater as well, obviously).
Thanks for watching, though!
I dont think that thermo app is even accurate. 🤔🤔🤔
Okay? I'm not sure what you want me to do with that information. Perhaps you could write a letter to Flir, the manufacturer of the thermal camera, and tell them their product doesn't work?