3D Printed Dust Collection Pickup for Bench Grinder
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- Опубліковано 27 вер 2024
- STL's and links: fpfdesigns.com/
Black PLA: amzn.to/3T9afnk
Outro music is "Quantum" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Quantum
Other music used is "Monolith" by "Vapora", used with explicit permission from the artist. • Monolith
New videos published every Friday, featuring a new 3D printed functional object, how I use it, and design considerations.
The design depicted in this video is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License or other non-commercial license.
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Looks great! I would probably change the sliding piece to have some sort of grip that sticks up rather than the hole for your finger. I feel like that hole would fill up with dust and grit which would drive me nuts. Looking forward to next week's video!
Adaptive cubic infill would have been a great choice to save a bit of filament on this large part.
Great project! I would do one thing differently, though. A while back I invested in a laser engraver/cutter a bit like the one you reviewed last week. I would cut the walls and slopes out of 3,5 mm plywood (the non formaldehyde stuff...) and use 3d printed connection pieces to screw it all together. Then you would be done in a few hours in stead of days. Cutting slots and dowels on your connecting plywood pieces is also great for building stuff like this. Enjoyed the video!
Beware of using a wood dust collector with metal grinding - you can start a fire inside the dust collector.
I also agree with this comment. When I setup my dust collection I ran a bare copper ground wire through the whole thing and grounded it to an electrical box. Dust collection can be explosive from static electricity but your adding sparks too. I’ve seen it with my own eyes on a light wood dust layer floor and a spark.
Great safety tips, makes sense that dust and sparks don't mix well.
With the indirect pickup in front of the wheels, and not from the wheel covers, I'm hoping there's no sparks entering the pickup when grinding, but it's a great point, and I'll need to test that theory to make sure (maybe in the dark?)
@@FunctionalPrintFriday There are a few different ways it can cause a fire even without direct sparks. Metal that is well below glowing temperatures can still be hot enough to ignite wood dust. Metal dust is also quite reactive, and can produce heat by reacting with oxygen or other materials. If you grind both aluminum and ferrous metal, mixing their dust together is not recommended. Also, aluminum dust reacts with water to form hydrogen, which can build up in a collection system and explode.
@@FunctionalPrintFridayIt might not be readily apparent with one or two tests, of that theory, but remember, it only takes one time to start a small fire that burns down all that you own...
I think you need to have the hose connect on the bottom for far better airflow and a buttload less filament
I went with connection on side because I'm hoping to be able to quickly connect/disconnect without getting down low to align the hose.
Slightly less convenient, but I think you’d get better air flow if you connected the hose to the bottom, rather than the side. Another enjoyable video!
Thanks, I went with connection on side because I'm hoping to be able to quickly connect/disconnect without getting down low to align the hose.
Nice job. Things like that definitely make having a big printer more enticing. A simple spacer is how I'd handle the small gap as well.
Personally, I'd rather have a smaller printer that has an enclosed heated chamber that can handle more materials and reduce hassle with warping. You can always design small sectional parts with alignment tabs and assemble them into larger parts afterwards. As a bonus, if you have a problem during printing, you're not going to have to scrap a whole roll of filament. I would design this piece with the hose connection at the bottom for maximum airflow with a magnetic ring for quick alignment. Print a left half and a right half and print them on their side instead of standing up. A shadow line should keep it airtight at the joining seam. Of course, this is all theoretical, since I have not actually done this.
The bigger printer could benefit from a bigger nozzle, lika a 0.6 or 0.8mm nozzle. You said you use it only for printing bigger parts so you would not loose too much detail but would benefit from reduced print times. Maybe worh a thought :)
Since this isn't a part that needs to bear any load, you could have tried lightning infill. That would reduce print time significantly.
Be careful grinding metal and wood dust collection in the same system! I have seen them start to smolder and smoke. Fortunately caught it before it went up.
Thanks for the info. With the indirect pickup in front of the wheels, and not from the wheel covers, I'm *hoping* there's no sparks entering the pickup when grinding, but it's a great point, and I'll need to test that theory to make sure (maybe in the dark?)
Awesome!!
You really need to setup octoprint with a webcam...so you can remotely see the print status thru a webgui wherever you are in your house...it's how I monitor the status of my printer in my "print cabinet" in my back room
I do need to fix the webcam placement as it's way to dang close to the bed os all I see is the print head and not the print itself..LOL
Keep em coming!!!!
Check out simscale you could model the airflow. Bends like you have are death for airflow.
If you want to push out the side Use two 90s and if you open the left the right has a flapper that closes and visaversa.
Alternative is a y funnel with split port or two y funnels where your pipe base has three gate positions left open path, middle is off and right open path. Then your magnetic pipe snaps into that door. Then you adjust top port and gate to get maximal airflow. The method would be easy for cleaning too all de iris could just funnel through.
Nice collection box. I have a Neptune as well for big shop stuff.
Isn't the dust in the dust collectors highly flammable? Sparks from bench grinder and all?
That box is crying out to be made on a laser cutter! 11:01
the idea of sucking grinder sparks into a dust collection system also used for wood or other flamables seems like maybe not the safest plan
Maybe not the best, but the air flow will cool hot metal bits really really fast.
With the indirect pickup in front of the wheels, and not from the wheel covers, I'm *hoping* there's no sparks entering the pickup when grinding, but it's a great point, and I'll need to test that theory to make sure (maybe in the dark?)
Usually there’s a water bath placed in line, as close to the machine as possible, to mitigate this risk. Industrially, airflow is generally not considered enough to cool the sparks to an acceptable fire risk level, though industrial safety standards are obviously quite high
air flow can also fan sparks into flames really really fast
Yes, this. They make dust collectors specifically designed for metal grinding dust for this reason.
Such a great video thank you
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice work. What filament did you print the part in, and what did you use as support filament?
Thanks! PLA, and just plain PLA for the supports as well. If using bambu studio or orcaslicer, I find they have really tuned the support interfaces quite well. They generally seem to beak free pretty easily.
Mind sharing your temp and speed settings for the N4M?
I know every printer is different, but it would he nice to compare with others who has the same printer. Many thanks!!
Checkout my video on the N4M: ua-cam.com/video/VGbfQ0b__b0/v-deo.html
Out of interest with such a big build did you not consider building the “box” out of plywood and having all the fancy shapes and flow bits out of printed material?
I did, and used that methodology for the chop saw dust pickup, but the thin wood (even backed with 3/4 in the corners) has slowly warped over time tightening up the top cover and the front lip. Hoping PLA ends up being more stable, though it can also creep a bit.
So part is just cracked in the middle...
Nope, not cracked, but when I first saw it, I thought the same thing. That's the first layer where the cavity inside is a solid layer across. So, when it was printing, that outer wall below that point was able to slightly bend inward until it reached the top of the cavity where the side wall sets the width. Once it reached that point, that initial outer wall is wider by just enough to cast a shadow line and look like that.
I forgot to say I am looking forward to next weeks addition to the dust collection system. Thanks.
Impressive
51 hours is totally unreasonable, specially considering it's a box. You could have made the box part in MDF in a fraction of the time and printed the non-flat parts (couplings, etc). By the way, do you have a laser cutter?
Is there a reason why you aren't using CAD like Solidworks, Inventor, Onshape, Fusion 360 ? By the way, I love that you use metric!!!
Have a look at what The Swedish Maker did regarding magnetic connectors for dust collection on his 3D printing ETSY experiment video - could be ideal for your needs.
With a print that large, I'd probably go with a rectilinear infill instead of gyroid. If you're talking about reducing the infill and don't really need it for strength, even lightning might be a consideration.
"I spent all this time designing a system to keep my shop clean, and now it's just collecting dust" :)
I dont think sucking hot grinder sparks into a shared sawdust/wood dust collection is the best thought out plan.
Very well done. You keep coming up with new and interesting ideas all the time. Thank you for a great video.
thx
I’d add a flange to the tube and make pockets to hold magnets. Then I’d imbed the magnets a few layers down so it all sits flush. Maybe add a round rubber gasket into a lip on the flange for it to sit in. Like a throttle body on a car.
Whoo such a quick print 😮
Fantastic idea, I like it.
Big print and good start, commenters will point out that this could have been done simpler. I think it's very hard to switch from classical topics like woodworking to designing 3d printed part.
For parts this big you should really consider going to a thicker nozzle to speed up print times and increase strength.
yeh, I need to get a .6 for that machine, especially since I only use it for larger stuff
Go to the Revo hotend. The nozzles are more expensive, but you will find yourself switching to the most appropriate nozzle for the print job at hand, rather than living with whatever size happens to be installed. The ease of changing nozzles is a game changer.