One thought to reduce the number of magnets needed would be to make it such that the hose and tool side key in to each other more. Basically, make it so that the pieces hold together when tilted or slid, and only come apart when pulled perfectly straight. Then you can use fewer magnets, because the magnets aren’t holding the weight, the plastic is.
SERIOUS HEADS UP on using the dust collection on your grinder. you send a hot piece of metal from something your grinding into your dust bag full of wood chips and you will have a big fire very quickly. It happens.
Totally. Sucking glowing metal into wood dust and fibers seems like a recipe for disaster. Maybe not the first or second time, but it would catch up to you eventually.
That was my first thought too. All my dust collection is separate from my grinding collection, which I send straight down into water buckets. Remember, a glowing piece doesn't need to stay glowing all the way to the dust bag/bin, only until it reaches a suitably dusty atmosphere that it can ignite. Probably it's not gonna light a fire, but I've seen too many dust fires/explosions living in a lumber town to take the chance with my shop.
The little hot coal can sleep for hours and hours before it wakes up when everyone is gone home or or has gone to bed . Better off dealing with metal dust with a broom. p.s. use some steel along with magnets for increased sticktivity.
I subscribed, ringed the bell, and liked your video. Not only is this video good, but you also zipped the files so we don't have to recreate and waste our time building something you already built. I'm not gonna use this project now since I don't need to, but I wanted to tell you that I appreciate you putting your files out for everyone. I am astounded how other youtubers don't. We thank you!
I love this series. I'm all about the functional print. Even though I may never need what you are designing its helpful to see how others solve problems and learn from that.
Great ideas. I'm not sure why so many people are commenting about how you could reduce the amount of magnets by altering the connection to lock mechanically fit together, magnets are extremely cheap & the ease & speed of just snapping them together (especially when they self align) is so much better than trying to slide or screw things together especially when dust etc is involved.
I think a guide lip on one of the sides would help quite a bit. With enough depth, it would prevent twisting or sliding laterally, so the only degree of freedom is straight back where the magnetic hold is strongest.
I like your methodical print approach to designing your pieces and the 3D printing tips. The smooth face design is clean and promotes a safe shop environment.
I downloaded the files for this connector system. Thank you for your efforts and your generosity. You deserve so many more subscribers. I added myself to the list.
Magnetic attraction is about 10x shear. Not sure what pry force would be. Simply extending an internal straight section (cylinder) so that there's mechanical support in the pry direction will solve the issue without using all the magnets.
I had same problem designing exhaust port for my fiber laser enclosure. The magnets have plenty of pulling force in line with opposing magnets. The issue is that they don't offer enough magnetic force in shear direction. You can feel this effect by placing magnet on the flat vertical metal wall and try pulling away from the wall vs. sliding magnet along the metal wall. To counteract that, I added in ring lip on the mating surfaces of the clamps. This allowed to use fewer magnets so that you don't need to pull hard to take part apart while still maintaining positive retention on the exhaust port clamps.
The issue is the tild in which it pulls off the hose. Your first design had 4 magnets and it was not falling out straight because the 4 magnet setup was strong enough. But the hose pulled it off at an angle (tilted it away) which only needed to break 2 magnets first and after that the other 2 which is obviously much easier. So your test of the strength is not really telling you much about the actual strength. Another solution (instead of 8 magnets) would be to design a slid so that it cannot be pulled off by an angle but only straight. This design might even increase safety in a workshop as it doesn allow to break off at an angle.
I've made duct collection adapters for a buddy without magnets, but I made them with TPU. Allows for some expansion and contraction when trying to fit in slightly different sized connectors. re: Clearance, I designed a test piece of various sized holes and peg along with text next to each one to indicate the size, in 0.5mm increments. As he said, on small holes, tolerance can be an issue. So now if I need a hole which is 3mm in diameter, I grab the test piece I made and measure which one is 3mm, (which might be the 3.5mm labeled hole, for example), then I set the diameter appropriately in the model. Also, pulling force isn't the same as shearing force, as you soon discovered.
this kind of stuff is why i wanted a printer. easily making ideas that improve my work with my other tools.. and making it look awesome. Ill definately be downloading these files and trying it on my machine. Thank you!
I was yelling at my screen when you pulled straight out. I was like. STOP. Need to pry. Like the hose does. 😂 Good video though man. You earned my subscription.
I was doing the same thing. Pulling from center applies no leverage and distributes load over all magnets. But I agree, this is a cool video and solution.
I would have made a hook. a mechanic lock, with the magnets only centering the hose, not holding the torq of the pulling force of the hose. Meaning having two mangets to locking the hose, and being easy to remove. Your solution is hard to remove, because you have to have many magnets to hold the hose in the first place. Interesting video as always. 👍😀
heat gun works so well when you have very snug fit on pla parts, just heat the part ever so lightly and it will soften up a little and easily fit on the other side :)
Nice solution. My favorite was the crevice tool. I could see having several of them, one at each tool, so you could clean up right when you’re finished before you turn the vacuum off. 👍👍😎👍👍
I've been making magnetic dust couplers for a couple of years now and all of mine need 8 10x3mm magnets to hold them together. Now that is for a 4 inch dust hose but it holds extremely well
For orienting magnets I have two small handles, printed in different color. Each having differently oriented magnet glued to it. I keep these "tools" in my magnets box and use them when pushing other magnets into my prints. Makes it easy to not mix orientation.
Very very nice. And so nice of you to make the stl available. I've been meaning to get around to designing something like this but procrastination is a much greater force.
there's a taper on it. It's just real short so not easy to see. It's about 1mm long on the suction side and keys into the pickups to prevent lateral movement.
Thank you for sharing your video. I believe you have to account for the sheering force primarily because of the angle the hose makes with the appliance you want to connect to. Imho you can overcome this by designing a better ( more contact surface) connectors between hose and appliance.
There are different grades of neodymium magnets - typically N35 to N55, with the larger number being the stronger. Also the bigger the magnet, the more pull you get, so lots of options if you need more magnetic strength - bigger magnet and/or stronger magnet. They come in all shapes and sizes too - discs, squares, ones with countersunk holes, and even long cylinders. I have used square ones with a countersunk hole to affix to a 3D print with a threaded brass insert.
@@larrybud Read it again - the magnet has a countersunk hole in it. You put insert into PLA - then insert a screw through magnet, and into insert. Holds it in solid, and also makes it easily removable.
Alternate polarity of the magnets that ensures that the field of one set of magnets reinforces the field of the neighboring ones instead of passing inbetween the sets where they don't add extra force.
@@FunctionalPrintFridayI think it would be great if you performed testing on the hold force with that magnet arrangement to determine the performance gain. It would make a nice followup video. Alternatively I think reducing the number of sets of magnets to 7 would provide enough strength but yield some cost savings. You couldn't then alternate their polarity if you did 7 though cause you'll be left with two beside each other and it may then affect the self alignment.
With alternating polarity, though the self alignment may need to bridge double the distance (max 45° instead of 22.5°), the alignment torque force will be double while resulting from the combination of repellence and attraction working together in the same direction. Of course you may need some more manual force to bring the pieces together in case you happen to approach with near maximal disalignment, when all the magnets repel, but this is an unstable equilibrium that will easily flip to the stable equilibrium of total alignment.
As @sdoc3 aludes to alternating also has the advantage of not needing to worry about overall polarity during assembly. As long as you do the alternating properly it will go together, no chance you end up with a repelling coupler. This is probably a far greater advantage than any gains in hold strength.
You can dramatically increase the strength of each magnet by mounting it in an iron (magnetic) cup which attracts to a facing piece of steel/iron (bolt, plates steel, etc.). This directs the magnetic flux to a smaller area and is even better than stacked magnets. Plus you don't have to align the collar correctly to have it stick.
I found your channel via the Neptune Max 4 printer troubleshoot and I've been loving your videos!!! great walkthroughs and learning to think via your process!!! you are awesome!!!!!!!!!!!
Yeah I'm surprised we didn't just go with a slip fit connection. It leads to a little fun dialing in tolerance/offset as well as taper to ensure they slide together satisfyingly and hold tight until you slide them apart. I went with these types of connections on various vacuum hoses over the years. No magnets required and less plastic needed, too. Builds great skills with tolerances as well as I said. Next time maybe FFF!
Good stuff. Might try adding a very subtle taper to the inside of the tube. I did similar fittings for my shop vac and they are sometimes hard to remove. The taper will reduce the contact area
I'd make it more like a regular vacuum hose connection with more overlap, it would support itself. Give it a decent clearance and make the magnetic ring seal around the external ledge on the tube.
If you alternate your polarity of all your magents on each part, you never have to worry about 2 parts not pairing. Also bigger or better magnets are way stronger
I would design it so the magnets are inserted from the other side. You can leave about 2 or 3 layers worth of material on the interface side that the magnet sits behind. This way, you'll never have to worry about the magnets popping out, and it will still be very strong. You also won't have to worry about trying to get the fit/tolerances right as you can just drop them in and secure them glue. Also, it'll allow you to add more magnets easier.
Just found your channel and very glad I did! Just got to the point of being able to making my own parts so looking forward to subscribing and seeing cool projects like these to give me some inspiration
Great info. I actually just got the same magnets for making a quick disconnect for my 60w laser’s exhaust. Your video gives me hope that it will work. Haha
You mentioned that the magnets are potentially interfering with themselves, someone made a comment below about ' also alternate the polarity of the magnets “around the clock dial” ' I believe that would fix your issue but might mess with your self aligning feature. Not sure.
If you have the magnets in alterating directions around the ring, you can reduceverrors in one magnet being the wrong way round and help selfvalignment at the same time
21:05 😉 you *_are allowed_* to use sandpaper when clearances are tighter than you wanted them to be. 😉 Also, if you had designed the slip-over pieces with a cutout slot on one side (or opposite sides), you might not have needed to design so many specifically individual parts. Yes, you might need a hose clamp if the fit is a little loose on some tools but it would save a lot of time (design & printing). (You also *_could_* have used a handsaw to make a cutout slot on the multi sander piece before forcing it on. It would have made installing it so much easier - and you can take it back off to put the magnets in.) 😁 Anyway, I liked the video and subscribed. 👍
One option for the magnets - reverse the polarity in each lobe as you move around the hose. That way you cannot get it wrong, the ring will always align itself.
I still can't reason why you put a dust collector on old sparky the bench grinder. Saw/Sander dust is very flammable. Some shops put a grounding wire inside the hose to prevent static sparks from potentially igniting the dust.
It's a good point. Maybe I've been lucky so far. I will say that there's no sparks entering from either the grinder or sander. Neither of these get used for heavy material removal (and neither are up to the task). The grinder gets used for sharpening lathe tool bits, and the sander gets used mostly for wood. It's not powerful enough to run the kind of aggressive belt you'd use for any kind of serious material removal on steel. I *would* like to build a "real" belt sander at some point, but I won't use this system for dust collection on it.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday casting any sparks anywhere's near the suck hole that ends in a pile of fluffy tender and air... oooOOF I don't know man? Just be cautious. Not trying to be a internet troll or anything, I have my own shop, I love 3D printing too (tis why I found your channel), and have dust collection system running entire perimeter with 4" PVC to all my saws and sanders and planers - to a big 'ol Jett canister system. PS: your magnetic connectors and general designs are awesome!
Magport has been around for many years. You're trying to reinvent what exists. More magnets, also alternate the polarity of the magnets “around the clock dial” on a single port so any port connects to any other port of equal size.
Why do you cook your meals, when you can just go to a restaurant? Why would you chop your own firewood, when you can just buy it and have it delivered? Why would you make a wooden box, when you can just buy one? Why does a dog lick its... you get the point. He made these collars, Because He Can and it was a fun project. That's it. Don't over think it.
I didn't check to see if anything existed commercially first, but I would have still made this to be able to customize the tool-mating end to each tool vs adding an additional adapter to each
@@FunctionalPrintFridayyou may not have checked but your design is almost an exact replica of the design Izzy swan came up with at least 5 years ago and is now licensed by mag switch. I can not say for sure Izzy swan was the first on UA-cam but he was the first I had seen do this. The only big difference in yours and his is that his has a post that once you spin the connection the posts and magnets engage at the same time. But I think his original was just the magnets.
Maybe you'd have better pull if you used two large ring magnets instead of 16 small ones? That also would eliminate the need of having the magnets align to snap into each other. That would also allow you to recess the magnets and maybe even add o-rings which could help more with air leaks.
Love the last episode and this one but I'm a little concerned of sparks getting a system that's full off wood dust. I never dare to use my dust collector for this. Maybe get a metal bucket/cyclone in between the grinder and the rest of the system.
It's a good point. Maybe I've been lucky so far. I will say that there's no sparks entering from either the grinder or sander. Neither of these get used for heavy material removal (and neither are up to the task). The grinder gets used for sharpening lathe tool bits, and the sander gets used mostly for wood. It's not powerful enough to run the kind of aggressive belt you'd use for any kind of serious material removal on steel. I *would* like to build a "real" belt sander at some point, but I won't use this system for dust collection on it.
Magnets are great, you might also try using a TPU rather than PLA type connector/fitting. Possibly with ribs on the dust collection hose section, just thoughts.
Very nice design, probably I'm gonna steal it from you , or at least get inspired from it ;-). One thing on your benchgrinder and stripsander, you'll probably use it for metalgrinding. In combination with wooddust, you have a combustable combination. You should get a metal sparkarrestor (fine metal screen) in between your dustcollection. This way you avoid a firehazard when grinding metal.
I would be curious to see the results of having a raised ring on the inlet side and a recessed ring on the outlet side. You would essentially make a male connector for the tool side and a female connector on the hose side.
The shear strength is weak. But if you orient so the weight of the hose so it acts straight down with an elbow (more restriction) then you can use the low shear force to separate and better normal force that would hold it together.
22:45 smaller hole, faster air, smaller pressure because of the moving air means better suction... the dust comes out easier :D. U shoudnt make the hole bigger
Nice job. It may have been some work to get everything as you wanted, but the results were worth it. I'm designing a similar system for my own dust collection system using magnets also. Speaking of magnets, I gave up on buying the cheap ones from amazon or ebay. Quality was far too inconsistent. I get all my magnets from total element now. N52 for highest strength. Catch you on the next one!
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Oh believe me, I know lol I've been an amazon addict since 2006 and even before back when it was still mail order lol It's just hard to beat the convenience and prices amazon offers. I have a hub nearby as well. Many times I place orders late in the evening and they're still here next day. Even for many of the things I know for a fact I can get cheaper from aliexpress I'll still grab from amazon to get them quicker. As for the magnets, I did the amazon dance too; many of those listed have no rating at all, or aren't even neodymium even though they say they are. A few posts on reddit led me to total element. Not the cheapest, but the quality is there and shipping has been quick for me.
It's not, it just looks like that because in that one spot it started the outer wall from the other direction and the belt may have been a little loose. It *does* look like it on video though, without a doubt.
3:00 did you consider keeping the I.D. of your part to be the same I.D. of the tool vent then have a thumb screw or bolt to tighten into the outside. Then it all looks neat and you get a ever so slight improvement in airflow as no minor lip inside path.
I love neodidium magnets but i have a rule i use when desighning a project using them, and its simply double the amount you think you need its just belts braces, but im very intereseted in your doubling back to back approach as this would be great if it works out 👍
Awesome concept. As a woodwork teacher I am am always shuffling adaptors and commercial adaptors are expensive. $25 Aus per fitting. Had been thinking of designing and printing my own adapters but the magnet idea is sensational. It also means the adaptor stays with the machine. Going to start designing to tomorrow 😊. Is your design available anywhere for a school to use ?
Great videos. My only complaint about this 3 video series, regarding the waste collection is you didn't give a demonstration after the collars and box were made.😒
I use a shop vac with a cyclone dust separator and would love to print some of these magnetic duct collection couplings. Any chance you've made the host side coupling that would fit? The hose I use is 2.5" OD. Thanks for the cool and useful videos!
For all of the whimsical marketing Gloop does they aren't kidding when they say don't huff it. If you read the rather long data sheet that comes with every bottle, that stuff is not a toy and should be used with safety equipment. It's a fantastic adhesive but boy howdy is it deadly.
Did you consider making the fitting for the belt sander (left side) into a 90 degree elbow. Then the flex hose has less strain pulling the fittings apart.
I think I bought those exact same magnets so I could machine my name out of aluminum to mount at my desk at work. Now I’m having concerns about them holding.
I take all my magnets, use a compass and identify north, 😢and stick them to a piece of steel with all the north poles facing up, and then I mark them with a red sharpie.
Woodcraft just released their own MagFitt line for what you designed. I'm curious how much the cost difference is between making your own vs buying pre-made parts.
Parts cost was definitely cheap on this project. Even with all the remakes and wasted magnets that I can't re-use from the v1 and v2 designs, I'm still under half a roll of filament and about 5 bucks in magnets
When you mentioned the magnets being close to each other and maybe interfering with each other I though, why not alternate them? N S N S... So long as they alternate on both sides they will still mate and the fields help each other.
Haven't gotten any yet, but time will tell. To remove filings, try a damp paper towel and kind of just wipe/pinch them off. The air blast is always instantly satisfying, but it just moves the problem to someplace else for later.
What CAD software do you use? I’m in the research phase before buying my first 3D printer (leaning towards Bambu X1C) I want to design and print functional items for my personal applications as well as to use in my small manufacturing business) and after watching a good number of your videos, I think whatever you are using might work for my needs as long as it isn’t a subscription based product. It doesn’t need to be free, just not an ongoing cost. I’d rather buy once, and cry once!
It's a good point. I will say that there's no sparks entering from either the grinder or sander. Neither of these get used for heavy material removal (and neither are up to the task). The grinder gets used for sharpening lathe tool bits, and the sander gets used mostly for wood. It's not powerful enough to run the kind of aggressive belt you'd use for any kind of serious material removal on steel. I *would* like to build a "real" belt sander at some point, but I won't use this system for dust collection on it.
One thought to reduce the number of magnets needed would be to make it such that the hose and tool side key in to each other more. Basically, make it so that the pieces hold together when tilted or slid, and only come apart when pulled perfectly straight. Then you can use fewer magnets, because the magnets aren’t holding the weight, the plastic is.
Thx for the suggestion. The magnets are dirt cheap. 200 for 10 bucks, but if I had to pay "real" money for them, I'd probably just do a twist-lock
My thought exactly.
SERIOUS HEADS UP on using the dust collection on your grinder. you send a hot piece of metal from something your grinding into your dust bag full of wood chips and you will have a big fire very quickly. It happens.
Totally. Sucking glowing metal into wood dust and fibers seems like a recipe for disaster. Maybe not the first or second time, but it would catch up to you eventually.
That was my first thought too. All my dust collection is separate from my grinding collection, which I send straight down into water buckets.
Remember, a glowing piece doesn't need to stay glowing all the way to the dust bag/bin, only until it reaches a suitably dusty atmosphere that it can ignite.
Probably it's not gonna light a fire, but I've seen too many dust fires/explosions living in a lumber town to take the chance with my shop.
The little hot coal can sleep for hours and hours before it wakes up when everyone is gone home or or has gone to bed . Better off dealing with metal dust with a broom. p.s. use some steel along with magnets for increased sticktivity.
I subscribed, ringed the bell, and liked your video. Not only is this video good, but you also zipped the files so we don't have to recreate and waste our time building something you already built. I'm not gonna use this project now since I don't need to, but I wanted to tell you that I appreciate you putting your files out for everyone. I am astounded how other youtubers don't. We thank you!
Huge DITTO ON THAT COMMENT!! THANK YOU
I love this series. I'm all about the functional print. Even though I may never need what you are designing its helpful to see how others solve problems and learn from that.
Great ideas. I'm not sure why so many people are commenting about how you could reduce the amount of magnets by altering the connection to lock mechanically fit together, magnets are extremely cheap & the ease & speed of just snapping them together (especially when they self align) is so much better than trying to slide or screw things together especially when dust etc is involved.
I think a guide lip on one of the sides would help quite a bit. With enough depth, it would prevent twisting or sliding laterally, so the only degree of freedom is straight back where the magnetic hold is strongest.
I like your methodical print approach to designing your pieces and the 3D printing tips. The smooth face design is clean and promotes a safe shop environment.
thx
I downloaded the files for this connector system. Thank you for your efforts and your generosity. You deserve so many more subscribers. I added myself to the list.
Magnetic attraction is about 10x shear. Not sure what pry force would be. Simply extending an internal straight section (cylinder) so that there's mechanical support in the pry direction will solve the issue without using all the magnets.
I was literally about to leave the exact same comment!
I had same problem designing exhaust port for my fiber laser enclosure. The magnets have plenty of pulling force in line with opposing magnets. The issue is that they don't offer enough magnetic force in shear direction. You can feel this effect by placing magnet on the flat vertical metal wall and try pulling away from the wall vs. sliding magnet along the metal wall. To counteract that, I added in ring lip on the mating surfaces of the clamps. This allowed to use fewer magnets so that you don't need to pull hard to take part apart while still maintaining positive retention on the exhaust port clamps.
The issue is the tild in which it pulls off the hose. Your first design had 4 magnets and it was not falling out straight because the 4 magnet setup was strong enough. But the hose pulled it off at an angle (tilted it away) which only needed to break 2 magnets first and after that the other 2 which is obviously much easier. So your test of the strength is not really telling you much about the actual strength. Another solution (instead of 8 magnets) would be to design a slid so that it cannot be pulled off by an angle but only straight. This design might even increase safety in a workshop as it doesn allow to break off at an angle.
I've made duct collection adapters for a buddy without magnets, but I made them with TPU. Allows for some expansion and contraction when trying to fit in slightly different sized connectors.
re: Clearance, I designed a test piece of various sized holes and peg along with text next to each one to indicate the size, in 0.5mm increments. As he said, on small holes, tolerance can be an issue. So now if I need a hole which is 3mm in diameter, I grab the test piece I made and measure which one is 3mm, (which might be the 3.5mm labeled hole, for example), then I set the diameter appropriately in the model.
Also, pulling force isn't the same as shearing force, as you soon discovered.
thx for sharing. TPU is a good idea if not going the magnet route.
this kind of stuff is why i wanted a printer. easily making ideas that improve my work with my other tools.. and making it look awesome. Ill definately be downloading these files and trying it on my machine. Thank you!
I was yelling at my screen when you pulled straight out. I was like. STOP.
Need to pry. Like the hose does. 😂
Good video though man. You earned my subscription.
I was doing the same thing. Pulling from center applies no leverage and distributes load over all magnets.
But I agree, this is a cool video and solution.
Screen yellers UNITE! I was right there with you. 😁
I would have made a hook. a mechanic lock, with the magnets only centering the hose, not holding the torq of the pulling force of the hose.
Meaning having two mangets to locking the hose, and being easy to remove. Your solution is hard to remove, because you have to have many magnets to hold the hose in the first place.
Interesting video as always. 👍😀
To help magnet alignment and maximize adhesion, I would suggest adding 2 relatively loose guide pins and holes at opposite ends of the flanges.
They self-align really strongly. It's hard to even force them to not align.
Finally found your channel. I refuse to print useless things, this channel is for me.
welcome!
Ingenious! This is my favorite design so far! (Who doesn’t love magnets?!)
Very well done!
thx!
heat gun works so well when you have very snug fit on pla parts, just heat the part ever so lightly and it will soften up a little and easily fit on the other side :)
Nice solution. My favorite was the crevice tool. I could see having several of them, one at each tool, so you could clean up right when you’re finished before you turn the vacuum off. 👍👍😎👍👍
thx! I've ended up using the crevice tool the most I think! lol not bad for an afterthought
I've been making magnetic dust couplers for a couple of years now and all of mine need 8 10x3mm magnets to hold them together. Now that is for a 4 inch dust hose but it holds extremely well
Best functional print i have seen thus far! Great work!
For orienting magnets I have two small handles, printed in different color. Each having differently oriented magnet glued to it. I keep these "tools" in my magnets box and use them when pushing other magnets into my prints. Makes it easy to not mix orientation.
Very very nice. And so nice of you to make the stl available. I've been meaning to get around to designing something like this but procrastination is a much greater force.
Love the idea!!
Maybe taper the inside of the mating surface so it'll not slip laterally. I'd even key it so it'll clock perfectly to the magnets.
there's a taper on it. It's just real short so not easy to see. It's about 1mm long on the suction side and keys into the pickups to prevent lateral movement.
I see those working for a lot of people. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for sharing your video.
I believe you have to account for the sheering force primarily because of the angle the hose makes with the appliance you want to connect to. Imho you can overcome this by designing a better ( more contact surface) connectors between hose and appliance.
Great tip on model orientation relative to the part cooling fan. Thanks for this little gem of a tip!
But actually NOT the part cooling fan, which is in the toolhead
He actually means the AUX fan.
There are different grades of neodymium magnets - typically N35 to N55, with the larger number being the stronger. Also the bigger the magnet, the more pull you get, so lots of options if you need more magnetic strength - bigger magnet and/or stronger magnet. They come in all shapes and sizes too - discs, squares, ones with countersunk holes, and even long cylinders. I have used square ones with a countersunk hole to affix to a 3D print with a threaded brass insert.
Can you explain your last sentence? How would a magnet and a threaded brass insert have any kind of interaction?
@@larrybud Read it again - the magnet has a countersunk hole in it. You put insert into PLA - then insert a screw through magnet, and into insert. Holds it in solid, and also makes it easily removable.
Alternate polarity of the magnets that ensures that the field of one set of magnets reinforces the field of the neighboring ones instead of passing inbetween the sets where they don't add extra force.
great idea, and I'll try this if remake them
@@FunctionalPrintFridayI think it would be great if you performed testing on the hold force with that magnet arrangement to determine the performance gain. It would make a nice followup video.
Alternatively I think reducing the number of sets of magnets to 7 would provide enough strength but yield some cost savings. You couldn't then alternate their polarity if you did 7 though cause you'll be left with two beside each other and it may then affect the self alignment.
With alternating polarity, though the self alignment may need to bridge double the distance (max 45° instead of 22.5°), the alignment torque force will be double while resulting from the combination of repellence and attraction working together in the same direction. Of course you may need some more manual force to bring the pieces together in case you happen to approach with near maximal disalignment, when all the magnets repel, but this is an unstable equilibrium that will easily flip to the stable equilibrium of total alignment.
I have done this on my dust collection, and that ensures cross-compatability of all the connectors no matter where they are used. Works great.
As @sdoc3 aludes to alternating also has the advantage of not needing to worry about overall polarity during assembly. As long as you do the alternating properly it will go together, no chance you end up with a repelling coupler. This is probably a far greater advantage than any gains in hold strength.
Always interesting to watch and learn new methods, Thanks
You can dramatically increase the strength of each magnet by mounting it in an iron (magnetic) cup which attracts to a facing piece of steel/iron (bolt, plates steel, etc.). This directs the magnetic flux to a smaller area and is even better than stacked magnets. Plus you don't have to align the collar correctly to have it stick.
I found your channel via the Neptune Max 4 printer troubleshoot and I've been loving your videos!!! great walkthroughs and learning to think via your process!!! you are awesome!!!!!!!!!!!
thx, and welcome aboard
I did a similar project for my workshop but I decided on a bayonet style fitting instead for retention.
Yeah I'm surprised we didn't just go with a slip fit connection. It leads to a little fun dialing in tolerance/offset as well as taper to ensure they slide together satisfyingly and hold tight until you slide them apart.
I went with these types of connections on various vacuum hoses over the years. No magnets required and less plastic needed, too. Builds great skills with tolerances as well as I said. Next time maybe FFF!
Awesome video! I really like that you let us join the whole process - including the fails! Cheers from Norway!
thx for checking in! I haven't been to Norway yet, but it's on my list.
thanks for doing this. I had the same idea and this video helped me work through issues i thought about and didnt
the dopamine hit when it self-aligns. +1
Good stuff. Might try adding a very subtle taper to the inside of the tube. I did similar fittings for my shop vac and they are sometimes hard to remove. The taper will reduce the contact area
I love those moments of, "oh wait, this also solves something I'd not considered!" 🤓
right! happy accidents
I'd make it more like a regular vacuum hose connection with more overlap, it would support itself. Give it a decent clearance and make the magnetic ring seal around the external ledge on the tube.
This is one of the coolest projects I've seen you do!
thx!
If you alternate your polarity of all your magents on each part, you never have to worry about 2 parts not pairing. Also bigger or better magnets are way stronger
I would design it so the magnets are inserted from the other side. You can leave about 2 or 3 layers worth of material on the interface side that the magnet sits behind. This way, you'll never have to worry about the magnets popping out, and it will still be very strong. You also won't have to worry about trying to get the fit/tolerances right as you can just drop them in and secure them glue. Also, it'll allow you to add more magnets easier.
Just found your channel and very glad I did! Just got to the point of being able to making my own parts so looking forward to subscribing and seeing cool projects like these to give me some inspiration
Great info. I actually just got the same magnets for making a quick disconnect for my 60w laser’s exhaust. Your video gives me hope that it will work. Haha
Such a satisfying build. Nice design. :)
You mentioned that the magnets are potentially interfering with themselves, someone made a comment below about ' also alternate the polarity of the magnets “around the clock dial” ' I believe that would fix your issue but might mess with your self aligning feature. Not sure.
Great stuff... Really love magnets..
If you have the magnets in alterating directions around the ring, you can reduceverrors in one magnet being the wrong way round and help selfvalignment at the same time
so smart to think about where the part cooling is coming from. I never thought about that with overhangs. CNCkitchen should do a test.
would love to see Stefan test this
21:05 😉 you *_are allowed_* to use sandpaper when clearances are tighter than you wanted them to be. 😉
Also, if you had designed the slip-over pieces with a cutout slot on one side (or opposite sides), you might not have needed to design so many specifically individual parts. Yes, you might need a hose clamp if the fit is a little loose on some tools but it would save a lot of time (design & printing).
(You also *_could_* have used a handsaw to make a cutout slot on the multi sander piece before forcing it on. It would have made installing it so much easier - and you can take it back off to put the magnets in.) 😁
Anyway, I liked the video and subscribed. 👍
One option for the magnets - reverse the polarity in each lobe as you move around the hose. That way you cannot get it wrong, the ring will always align itself.
Really well thought out. Thanks for sharing, now a new subscriber.
I still can't reason why you put a dust collector on old sparky the bench grinder. Saw/Sander dust is very flammable. Some shops put a grounding wire inside the hose to prevent static sparks from potentially igniting the dust.
It's a good point. Maybe I've been lucky so far. I will say that there's no sparks entering from either the grinder or sander. Neither of these get used for heavy material removal (and neither are up to the task). The grinder gets used for sharpening lathe tool bits, and the sander gets used mostly for wood. It's not powerful enough to run the kind of aggressive belt you'd use for any kind of serious material removal on steel. I *would* like to build a "real" belt sander at some point, but I won't use this system for dust collection on it.
@@FunctionalPrintFriday casting any sparks anywhere's near the suck hole that ends in a pile of fluffy tender and air... oooOOF
I don't know man? Just be cautious.
Not trying to be a internet troll or anything, I have my own shop, I love 3D printing too (tis why I found your channel), and have dust collection system running entire perimeter with 4" PVC to all my saws and sanders and planers - to a big 'ol Jett canister system.
PS: your magnetic connectors and general designs are awesome!
Magport has been around for many years. You're trying to reinvent what exists. More magnets, also alternate the polarity of the magnets “around the clock dial” on a single port so any port connects to any other port of equal size.
Why do you cook your meals, when you can just go to a restaurant? Why would you chop your own firewood, when you can just buy it and have it delivered? Why would you make a wooden box, when you can just buy one? Why does a dog lick its... you get the point. He made these collars, Because He Can and it was a fun project. That's it. Don't over think it.
I didn't check to see if anything existed commercially first, but I would have still made this to be able to customize the tool-mating end to each tool vs adding an additional adapter to each
@@FunctionalPrintFridayyou may not have checked but your design is almost an exact replica of the design Izzy swan came up with at least 5 years ago and is now licensed by mag switch. I can not say for sure Izzy swan was the first on UA-cam but he was the first I had seen do this. The only big difference in yours and his is that his has a post that once you spin the connection the posts and magnets engage at the same time. But I think his original was just the magnets.
Maybe you'd have better pull if you used two large ring magnets instead of 16 small ones? That also would eliminate the need of having the magnets align to snap into each other. That would also allow you to recess the magnets and maybe even add o-rings which could help more with air leaks.
Love the last episode and this one but I'm a little concerned of sparks getting a system that's full off wood dust. I never dare to use my dust collector for this. Maybe get a metal bucket/cyclone in between the grinder and the rest of the system.
It's a good point. Maybe I've been lucky so far. I will say that there's no sparks entering from either the grinder or sander. Neither of these get used for heavy material removal (and neither are up to the task). The grinder gets used for sharpening lathe tool bits, and the sander gets used mostly for wood. It's not powerful enough to run the kind of aggressive belt you'd use for any kind of serious material removal on steel. I *would* like to build a "real" belt sander at some point, but I won't use this system for dust collection on it.
Magnets are great, you might also try using a TPU rather than PLA type connector/fitting. Possibly with ribs on the dust collection hose section, just thoughts.
I like the dedication to the idea but 16 magnets per fitting is insane.
Insane in what sense? If the number really matters that much, buy thicker magnets. Or is it the staggering cost of 16 magnets at $.06 per magnet?
hehe
FANTASTIC SOLUTION!!
Very nice design, probably I'm gonna steal it from you , or at least get inspired from it ;-). One thing on your benchgrinder and stripsander, you'll probably use it for metalgrinding. In combination with wooddust, you have a combustable combination. You should get a metal sparkarrestor (fine metal screen) in between your dustcollection. This way you avoid a firehazard when grinding metal.
Honestly satisfying project!
thx!
I would be curious to see the results of having a raised ring on the inlet side and a recessed ring on the outlet side. You would essentially make a male connector for the tool side and a female connector on the hose side.
The shear strength is weak. But if you orient so the weight of the hose so it acts straight down with an elbow (more restriction) then you can use the low shear force to separate and better normal force that would hold it together.
wonder what would alternating the poles on each surface would do with the force required to separate them
22:45 smaller hole, faster air, smaller pressure because of the moving air means better suction... the dust comes out easier :D. U shoudnt make the hole bigger
Nice job. It may have been some work to get everything as you wanted, but the results were worth it. I'm designing a similar system for my own dust collection system using magnets also. Speaking of magnets, I gave up on buying the cheap ones from amazon or ebay. Quality was far too inconsistent. I get all my magnets from total element now. N52 for highest strength. Catch you on the next one!
Thx, will have to check them out. I'm addicted to Amazon because I'm close to a hub and get almost everything next day. It's a tough habit to kick :)
@@FunctionalPrintFriday Oh believe me, I know lol
I've been an amazon addict since 2006 and even before back when it was still mail order lol
It's just hard to beat the convenience and prices amazon offers. I have a hub nearby as well. Many times I place orders late in the evening and they're still here next day. Even for many of the things I know for a fact I can get cheaper from aliexpress I'll still grab from amazon to get them quicker.
As for the magnets, I did the amazon dance too; many of those listed have no rating at all, or aren't even neodymium even though they say they are. A few posts on reddit led me to total element. Not the cheapest, but the quality is there and shipping has been quick for me.
That big box is delaminating along layer lines. Can coat with superglue or a spray adhesive and strength will go through the roof.
It's not, it just looks like that because in that one spot it started the outer wall from the other direction and the belt may have been a little loose. It *does* look like it on video though, without a doubt.
Cool project, but if you use that grinding wheel on metal then the magnets will def attract all the metal dust that's made.
Alternating polarity should actually be stronger when the magnets are close together, but with less range.
3:00 did you consider keeping the I.D. of your part to be the same I.D. of the tool vent then have a thumb screw or bolt to tighten into the outside. Then it all looks neat and you get a ever so slight improvement in airflow as no minor lip inside path.
I love neodidium magnets but i have a rule i use when desighning a project using them, and its simply double the amount you think you need its just belts braces, but im very intereseted in your doubling back to back approach as this would be great if it works out 👍
that is some cool ideas but wouldnt it have been better to have blast gates so you dont have to switch any pipes
Do you want sparks from the grinder going into the dust collector? Maybe I missed something.
Great video, thank you!
Awesome!!! Did you put a few dabs of super glue on the magnets to hold them in the bores...or are they press fit enough?
Keep em coming!!!!
thx, the press-fit is really snug. I couldn't even recover the ones from the v1/2 design
Awesome concept. As a woodwork teacher I am am always shuffling adaptors and commercial adaptors are expensive. $25 Aus per fitting. Had been thinking of designing and printing my own adapters but the magnet idea is sensational. It also means the adaptor stays with the machine. Going to start designing to tomorrow 😊. Is your design available anywhere for a school to use ?
Great videos. My only complaint about this 3 video series, regarding the waste collection is you didn't give a demonstration after the collars and box were made.😒
this setup will get used in future vids for sure
I use a shop vac with a cyclone dust separator and would love to print some of these magnetic duct collection couplings. Any chance you've made the host side coupling that would fit? The hose I use is 2.5" OD. Thanks for the cool and useful videos!
For all of the whimsical marketing Gloop does they aren't kidding when they say don't huff it. If you read the rather long data sheet that comes with every bottle, that stuff is not a toy and should be used with safety equipment.
It's a fantastic adhesive but boy howdy is it deadly.
yeh, I usually wear gloves and I should probably start donning a mask too
Use N52 Neodymium Magnets - they are at least 2x as strong as the regualr magnets
Did you consider making the fitting for the belt sander (left side) into a 90 degree elbow. Then the flex hose has less strain pulling the fittings apart.
What size hose are you using?
I think I bought those exact same magnets so I could machine my name out of aluminum to mount at my desk at work. Now I’m having concerns about them holding.
they're pretty strong, that hose is just heavier than I realized
I take all my magnets, use a compass and identify north, 😢and stick them to a piece of steel with all the north poles facing up, and then I mark them with a red sharpie.
Thank you for the very informative video. I am interested in seeing how you designed the slip ring part. Do you have an stl for that part?
oops! I left that out of the STL pack originally, but I just added it. Thanks for catching that!
Excellent Merci.
Woodcraft just released their own MagFitt line for what you designed. I'm curious how much the cost difference is between making your own vs buying pre-made parts.
Parts cost was definitely cheap on this project. Even with all the remakes and wasted magnets that I can't re-use from the v1 and v2 designs, I'm still under half a roll of filament and about 5 bucks in magnets
Do you think this would work? Top of one connector you have a tab, top of the other you have a lip. Then magnet or two at the bottom to hold in place?
@22:00 lol you have a spindle sander just behind you :)
When you mentioned the magnets being close to each other and maybe interfering with each other I though, why not alternate them? N S N S... So long as they alternate on both sides they will still mate and the fields help each other.
Greetings. What type of filament did you use for this project?
Interested on how much metal filing build up on magnets. If its annoying or easy fix(air hose blast).
Haven't gotten any yet, but time will tell. To remove filings, try a damp paper towel and kind of just wipe/pinch them off. The air blast is always instantly satisfying, but it just moves the problem to someplace else for later.
What CAD software do you use? I’m in the research phase before buying my first 3D printer (leaning towards Bambu X1C) I want to design and print functional items for my personal applications as well as to use in my small manufacturing business) and after watching a good number of your videos, I think whatever you are using might work for my needs as long as it isn’t a subscription based product. It doesn’t need to be free, just not an ongoing cost. I’d rather buy once, and cry once!
Figured it out while watching another video. Sketchup!
Love the channel and content. I know you’ve heard it before, wish you would switch to Fusion 360.
Moar magnets!
Is the combination of 3D printing and red-hot filings from a grinder a good combination?
It's a good point. I will say that there's no sparks entering from either the grinder or sander. Neither of these get used for heavy material removal (and neither are up to the task). The grinder gets used for sharpening lathe tool bits, and the sander gets used mostly for wood. It's not powerful enough to run the kind of aggressive belt you'd use for any kind of serious material removal on steel. I *would* like to build a "real" belt sander at some point, but I won't use this system for dust collection on it.
workshop tour
If enough people ask for it, I'll do one
Loved it!
thx!
Hey, what kind of hose is that, does it come in 6-inch diameter and where do I get it?
It's here: amzn.to/499tfXS
Anyway youCan you supply a fusion 360 file for this so i can modify diameters?