A Unique 3D Printed Screw Connection
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- Опубліковано 24 тра 2024
- One last connection!
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In the previous several videos we created quite a few different connections for joining 3D printed parts together and none of them used any fasteners or adhesive. In this video we're going to create a connection with fasteners, except, it's no ordinary connection with fasteners, it'll have a very unusual shape which provides lots of contact area, aligns itself in multiple directions simultaneously, and it is is going to be pulled together tight.
The purpose of this video isn't just about the connection, it's about exploring different ideas and methods within Fusion360 so that we can open up more options for design.
For this video, I've used the Bambu X1C, the filament was Bambu PETG-CF in Brick Red and in Titan Grey linked below (I receive a small commission if purchased through my link and it helps me continue to make videos like these):
ca.store.bambulab.com/collect...
Fusion Files:
Screwed Scarf - drive.google.com/file/d/1rT-H...
Sine Wave - drive.google.com/file/d/14NQj...
Scissor Lap - drive.google.com/file/d/1vuAL...
If you'd like to see more connections, let me know.
One way to support this channel is through my affiliate links (where I receive a small commission). It helps me to continue to provide high-quality content videos. Thank you for your support!
#1 Core XY - Best bang-for-buck
QIDI Q1 Pro - qidi3d.com/products/q1-pro?sc...
This printer isn't as full featured as the X1C, but it is very capable and very precise. It also has a heated chamber and can reach higher hot end temps.
#2 Core XY - Most features with great results but Pricey $$
Bambu X1C - shrsl.com/4j1gz
Panda Jet For Bambu P1 and X1 Series (Tested and proven to work well)
PANDA JET: shrsl.com/4jhht
NEW MIC (I bought this)
amzn.to/3vcMKAr - Rode Wireless ME mic (Saved me about 4+ hours/vid)
amzn.to/3NBFvZe - Mag clip (Super handy, but a little pricy)
#3dprinting
#x1c
#strong - Навчання та стиль
As someone who has spent a bit of time in Fusion, but mostly learning via intuition and looking up specific tools, I found the way you designed this part very interesting. The whole "draw first, constrain later" thing you were doing was like witchcraft.
I've been teaching my friend 3D design using OnShape (I'm Fusion user myself) and it's fun to confuse him by showing at least 3 different ways to do the same thing :)
First drawing rough shapes and then contraining them completely is something I do as well. Seemed like a good way to me.
It's an extremely handy way of working -- except when it isn't. Add it to your toolbox and you'll learn by doing when it's appropriate and when not.
I think the draw first, constrain later is the old school method of using CAD programs and often used by experienced CAD users because it makes it more apparent which constraints you need to add. That method uses drawing shapes intentionally in wrong places (that is, you intentionally draw the shape bit offset and intentionally a bit wrong size).
Combined with parameter table to define all the measurements you definitely get witchcraft level automation.
I appreciate you showing the problems with the first version (the angle & the problem with driving screws) rather than just editing it away and pretending it didn't happen. Helps me to know what to avoid.
Totally agree. That was a decision that sometimes people just want to show it correctly instead to invite you to sit around and enjoy the journey
If you are using a lot of heatset inserts then it makes sense to get a soldering iron tip designed for it rather than just using a normal soldering iron tip. You can get sets pretty cheap for quite a few types of soldering iron. The ones I use from CNC Kitchens store for the pinecil has a thinner shaft than your soldering iron and has specific screw on tips of each size of insert, they have a cylinder on the end that matches the inside diameter of the inserts so it helps protect the threads too so they don’t get full of plastic. They also help to hold the insert concentric to the shaft so you don’t needs to try to wiggle and push it about to get it in straight or flush.
(I don't have a soldering iron so unless there's an obstacle I'm unaware of,) I believe a quick, jank way to gain more control would be to replace the soldering tip with a bolt of appropriate size.
@@krayne2084good idea. But you want to pull out the soldering iron right after the heat set inserts is placed. Every second will heat up the plastic even more and potentially ruin it.
I bought a kit like this but I've already lost 3 or 4 pieces. And honestly I didn't think it was that practical. But a "new" technique that I saw on the Geek Detour channel where you use a screw or a table to align, that was a golden tip.
The insert inserters are wonderful, especially the CNC Kitchen one. A bolt won’t work well because steel does not transmit heat nearly as well as aluminum or brass.
The one I used in the video was one that I modified to fit the M3, it was made from one of the extra tips that came with the iron, it was too short of course, but it's just made from copper and plated, so I can easily whip another one up when I get my lathe put back together. The size is important for sure, the tip expands when heated and it can get hung up inside the hole giving you an awful experience when trying to put these in, I ended up doing some trial and error to get just the right size that worked at 300C.
The wave design gives you a wonderfully large surface area for gluing too, if you don't want to bolt or screw them together. I like that fact that it would be self aligning too.
Hats off to centuries of Japanese ingenuity that crated the most brilliant form of joinery on the planet.
is Chinese
Stop splayed scarf joints appear in ancient Roman structures, and I am pretty sure that other form of scarf joints appeared even earlier in boat building. I believe that the problem of having only short planks available and needing longer planks is an old one, and several civilizations came out with similar solutions. The Japanese joints try to avoid using metal fittings whenever possible (moreso than the Chinese joinery, because China had more access to metal ores), but "trennels" are nothing new, and using pegs to hold joints together is also not exclusive to the far east.
@@TDOBrandano there are old woodworking schools in Scandinavia and Slavic countries that pride themselves on not using any nails or metal while constructing huge churches that have joinery in no way inferior to the Japanese one.
And that's just one example.
The Chinese taught the Japanese.
Still doesn't beat the speed of a nail gun... And the ironic thing is that residential homes in Japan are made cheaply because regions are so earthquake prone there's no reason to build a house that will last 100 years because it probably won't. Meanwhile in Germany, roofs are constructed to last 100 years, unlike the typical 30 years in the US
You said the word "connection" 16 times in the first 2 minutes of the video so I subscribed
Thank you for taking the time to produce this series. I really enjoy these deep dives into one focussed aspect of 3D printing. The knowledge gained is a rising tide that lifts all ships.
Thanks Tim, I really appreciate that. I want to try to share the ideas and also show how to create them in as short a video as possible, I still have more work to do to make the videos better. Baby steps I suppose.
i haven't even watched the video through, but i just gotta applaud you for actually making a very comprehensive, easy to digest step by step guide on how to make this. Not too much fill, very straight forward, and just a very good tutorial, very nice job. If most teachers could convey information at the same efficiency as you, i might've actually had listened in elementary math class.
Instead of screws, a wedge that clicks in place would also be deeply pleasing 😊
the connection series is the business! i found your channel at the exact moment i needed to find more info/inspiration on this topic. very professional and concise! thank you for the time and effort you put into this
(Please read till the end) Thanks.
I truly appreciate these videos. I've got years of real-world experience joining thousands of kilometres of heavy-duty plastic pipelines in the Oil & Gas industry.
I used to hate the idea of plastic pipelines and avoided them as long as possible...but eventually I did.
We "welded" plastic pipeline with various industry methods, and they had to pass inspection, and pressure testing.
To calibrate the welder, the engineers cut out those joints to visually inspect a cross-section, and get an x-ray (radiography, like steel welds) we'd perform a few more tests, looking for various characteristics, and almost always, the joints are "stronger" than the rest of the pipe (when done right.
I'm a retired oil & Gas pipefitter, but I came up through B-pressure welding, and heavy machinery operator (depending on the season) and oil-rigs as a teenager (a very long time ago😂)
I've never even thought of it before right now, for some reason, but I wonder, wouldn't it make sense to weld these joints instead of mechanically joining them?
I apologize if this has already been explained in one of the videos, that I didn't catch.
I want to note that Gyroid infill allows you to fill your 3D prints with resin, making the final product A LOT stronger.
I’m really enjoying this series you are making, it is something pretty different from what most people do with 3D printing and it will be interesting to see the strength comparisons.
It would be super interesting to see a non-planar implementation of this design and how that would affect tolerances of the joint fit. Or even changing the angle of print to be more vertical or rotated 90 degrees to prevent that stair stepping effect.
Excellent work, really cool to see!
Bro, these connection vids are next level. They are so my jam. So satisfying. Keep them coming!!!
This is way more complex than the version just using two wedges and it requires purchased hardware.
The simple version you showed uses only plastic you print yourself, it is brilliant.
I now use it for light strong joints with no need to buy hardware.
Thank you.
Absolute gold, a continuing series on joinery would be sick
Your tone makes the videos almost like ASMR.
Oh, I guess that's a good thing. I think I still have a long ways to go to get more comfortable speaking into a camera. It's not like speaking to a person that's for sure.
@@NeedItMakeIt but it's already calm and clear. I think it's fine.
thats good mic helps ALOT ;)
Thank you for showing your fusion workflow. This is super helpful.
Nice - note that you can cut a body using a sketch line - no need to extrude a surface. Obviously only relevant for the first cut - the complex cutting tool needs to be a surface - very elegant btw.
was thinking that to, something so simple made it look so complicated.
You got it, I thought about the 2nd more complex shape and whether it could be done another way, and this seemed like the best way. doing 5 sketches would probably give a pretty good result as well, technically I could also have mirrored the surface to save a bit more time too. Lots of options, it's going to open up some options for sure down the line with other designs.
I took it a bit far, there isn't a need for that many sketches, I just like to take things too far... it's a problem that I have.
Your videos on these joints have been interesting and informative, especially this one since I've learned some techniques in F360. Thanks!
Thanks for that! I'm trying to include some Fusion stuff more often and present it so that I can use my hands more often, I think I'm going to need to use a VR Headset so I can present directly inside the program. I'm still working on trying to come up with the best approach that is clear and quick.
One of if not the best 3D printing channel, Bravo.........
Wow, thank you very much! I still have a long ways to go, I want to do even better in every way possible, I'm still getting comfortable speaking to the camera, it's not a normal thing.
@@NeedItMakeIt I have learned so much from watching your videos, not only that some of the files you even give away for free you can make a few bucks on but you choose not to, and you're growing the channel the proper way not by begging for money every few seconds in every video they're consistent, educational, useful and just plain out excellent I look forward to your videos.........................
"Let me waste 14 minutes of your time explaining exactly how I made these two things that are obviously not very good and which I don't test in this video."
Well, you sir saving me some time 👌
Same
Appreciated.
Thank you for your service 🫡
Saved me time!
That is so great! Indeed, recently i am trying to print big-in-small-out for printing a frame.
You deserve every bit of Patreon contributions. Keep this up and I’ll be there soon enough! Thank you for the excellent videos.
Thanks for that! I'm working on trying to make better and better videos; more info in less time and hopefully I'll get more comfortable on camera to smile on occasion... Lots of room for improvement, luckily there is no shortage of video ideas.
You have a confident and cohesive look and style.
Awesome! Love these vids, I feel like we’re learning SECRETS 😊
Well if that's the case I have 100s more of these kinds of videos to make! I really want to come up with the best way to present information on-screen, a simple screen capture is pretty plain and I want to use my hands and interact a lot more. I was thinking of a VR setup where I could be right inside the software, I wonder if that's doable?
what would REALLY intrest me in connections that are fully 3d printed and dont require any non 3d printed hardware
Several wood joint designs don't need screws and you could copy those. But I think this would need a lot of tuning to get a perfect fit because the tolerances vary between printers and print profiles etc, there's a reason people use screws. I bought a bunch of M4 nuts and bolts, copy-paste the cutouts and holes into the part and it just works every time
The quality of your prints are amazing 🤩
Thanks, I can't take much credit here, I've found that when printing PETG-CF on either the Bambu X1C or the QIDI Q1 Pro produces results like this, the Bambu auto-calibrates... well it normally does when using the correct buildplate. The QIDI needs the manual calibration, but if you stick with the same filament, it seems to be a one-and-done. The only issue with PETG-CF or any filament with CF in it is that layer bonding is dramatically reduced, it's a stiff material, but it acts more like a piece of wood that wants to split along the layer lines more easily. Basic PETG may be more flexible, but it has far better layer bonding.
May I ask for a link to the filament?
You can put in the heatset inserts from the other side, making them even stronger
He could even make the hole smaller towards the side the screw comes in so the insert really has something to get pulled against in the hole.
That would work, but only if you weren't concerned about the finish of the opposite side, as implied in the video.
@@markbooth3066 The opposite side could even be closed. With 3D printers you can print the whole, interrupt the print, drop in the nut and continue printing so the nut is captured securely inside.
That is technically correct@@AlJay0032, which is, of course, the best kind of correct. *8')
A much simpler way of designing such a "sine wave" connection is to draw the sketch of the profile in the cross section and extrude it along a path of the connection, this way you only need two sketches instead of 5 or 6. That way you get a properly defined shape without that "flat" intersecting area in the big connection surface. Also you can draw this shape independently on the two parts which is great for reusability.
My solid grounded mind can’t comprehend using those surface tools haha. I can only see that you could do this with solid tools.
I hear ya! I'm starting to finally wrap my head around it, but it is a bit of a shift, I've seen some pretty incredible designs that have used surfaces, and that was pretty much what inspired me to try it out. There are some parts that are just too hard to model using the solid options alone; curves in many directions seem to be where the surfaces really shine.
thanks for the interesting videos and especially for sharing the files
Love these 3D printed joinery videos! Great work!
Thanks! Hopefully they're a good combination of info and entertainment. I know a lot of people want more Fusion tutorials, I'm trying to come up with a better method to present these in as short a video as possible while also having a good amount of interesting information. Simple screen captures aren't good enough, so more work is needed to get something better.
@@NeedItMakeIt I love the concept of improving and fine-tuning cool wood joinery for 3D printing. Personally, I'm not too concerned with tutorials in a specific program.
Very cool. I like what you you are doing and that you are sharing it. Thank you.
Dude , not just the concept and execution, but the practical how to with fusion is amazing!, i am learnin shit today!
I think you should print the parts rotated by 90° so that you don't have stairs in the angled part...
Yes that would have been really good, I was thinking that I should set all of the connections at 45 degrees for the testing I'll have to do a test run to see how each connection will turn out when printed, some will print better than other's I'm sure. I also will switch to Basic PETG because layer bonding is far better than anything with CF or GF in it.
Very well presented!
Even if the design itself is useless, the CAD technique alone makes this video an inspiration. Please make more videos with increased focus and attention to the CAD side. Can you show in more detail how you did the part at 8:25 where you split the body multiple times with the profile you created earlier?
Cool stuff. A lateral pull test would be interesting between these to see if the fail points are any different. Looking forward to results!
A pull test would be good for sure, I'll try to integrate that into my testing somehow!
Looking forward to the testing! Most interested in seeing which joints don’t require fasteners but are still strong.
Saw a nice tip recently, design the part so the heatset inserts are inserted from the opposite side to where the screw is inserted. That way the screw has to pull the insert through the part, rather than just pulling it out of a hole.
when you have space, instead of heat-set, just do a hex hole for a nut on the backside, it's way easier ( if you're not making a slot to insert the nut from the side, just do 1 thread on a threaded rod or long screw to place it, and start to screw the actual screw in, then remove the placeholder).
if you don't want visible nuts, you can add a cover
Great job!!!
Excellent info! Thanks!!
I'm glad you thought so, thanks for that!
Great design👍
12:02 "feels very strong..." piece visibly wobbling
?
I have them in my hands right now and just tested them again to see if I missed anything, and I don't feel any wobbling. We'll be testing everything anyway to see which ones really come out on top so it doesn't matter what I think, the proof will be in the pudding. I'd prefer to not use any fasteners so if this isn't the best connection, that's fine with me. Most of what I do here on YT is just share ideas they don't need to be good, ideally they're just different from what anyone else has done.
I am getting seasick watching your head swing
Love the content
I have found a good way to put the heat sets in is first screw the insert on a screw. maybe a long screw. then heat the insert and the screw. Insert the screw/insert assy. Let cool. Remove the screw. the nice part of this is it prevents the melted plastic from oozing up the threads. I have just taken the "tip" of the soldering iron out and inserted the insert/screw assy into the micro oven of the soldering iron.
Nice 3d modelling skills.
Instead of relying on heat-set inserts to pull the joint together, would you consider a captive nut design instead? I've had a lot of success with using nuts and machine screws to hold prints together, but haven't tried making a captive nut design yet. Alternatively, you could just use a socket wrench to hold the nut in place while you tighten the screw from the other side, then you don't have to worry about the strength of the plastic holding the nut in place.
@11:00 I would design the joint to have a nut placed inside the print by stopping the print midway and placing the nut in its pocket internally and then printing over the nut with the screw passage left unprinted. This requires no melted nuts and makes the joint much stronger because it is pulling a mass of 3d print towards the screw head as it's tightened. I have done this a number of times and it works well and also increases the print strength as it has a steel bolt running inside it now. The other way is to have the nut on the other side of the joint at an angle like a pocket screw only with a nut inside it to create maximum force of pulling joint tight
This is awesome
One flaw I see in this is that they're not going to have equal amounts of plastic. You're increasing the perimeter length by adding the wavey texture, meaning that the effective wall thickness there will be greater than a flat surface.
That's right, it's not going to use the same amount of material, just as a scarf will also use mor material than a butt-joint would. I can certainly speak to this when I get closer to finalizing the testing video. It's not going to be a perfect apples to apples, it's more about sharing interesting ideas. Valid point though and I will make a note to speak to this in the follow up video.
With over 600 channels I'm subbed to I forgot I was subbed to your channel, but keep making quality videos that I want to click on anyway and I'll eventually remember.
whooooooo! so excited to see this
I love your videos!!
Thank you, many many more to come, I have lots more ideas for design videos too, I also want to explore the latest tech as well a bit more, but overall just sharing ideas and trying to make things ourselves is the goal.
Great channel, Great idea!
Thanks, I don't know it it can beat some of the other connections, but it's an interesting approach and maybe it'll be a useful tool to use for other applications as well. I can already think of a few times where this tool would do a much better job than just using the solids options.
Great content. TY.
Great Video!!
Interesting experiment. However, these particular joints are so complex that I would only use them if they provide some insane benefit, which I doubt. Waiting for the test video.
The wood screw will give you much more strength than the one threaded insert _from the same side_
Personally, I'd have skipped the heat set inserts altogether. Since the strength of the screw connection is largely governed by the shared surface area between the screw and the part (or, for heatset inserts it's the shared surface area between the insert and the part), you can get as much or more strength out of threading directly into the plastic so long as you have a deep enough hole. Since the heatset inserts are short (what, 6-7mm?) you can get a good chunk more strength out of threading a screw directly into 15mm of plastic.
It would be cool to get a comparison between using heatset inserts and those nifty hex driven wood screw things you found, especially if you can optimize for screw contact.
For machine threads, I think the lower limit for decent FDM threads would be M4, or for imperial, 6-32 since they're more coarse.
very cool, excited to see what the sine wave scarf has in store.
e: I know it's not technically just the shared surface area, but the shared surface area that's resisting the pulling force of the screw, but so many words.
i like your comment, in mine i suggested designing it so that hole goes all the way through, so you can insert the heat set insert from the back side, that way you are pulling against the plastic on the back side of the heat set insert, not just pulling the insert directly out of the surface of the print. essentially clamping both prints between the heat set insert and the head of the machine screw. or even replace the insert with an m3 nut utilizing the same idea, since the nut may have better surface area on its front face.
@@BrandonTenbrink I agree, that's a better way to use heatset inserts since you can get a much higher clamping force for the screw. I'm sure there's formulas that can dictate what circumstances each configuration will come out on top. I think for this kind of joint you may also be considering the aesthetic appeal of it too, which might lend towards a blind hole setup. For m3 nuts, I find them to be very weak for this application, as there isn't much of a good surface resisting the force of spinning that's actually making sure you can apply torque to it. This is why I prefer using square nuts in those circumstances!
This is not really true. For one thing, the insert is melted into the plastic - unlike a screw which sits on the threads. There is far more contact between the insert and the item, and the plastic itself sticks to the metal as well.
Also, if you install the insert correctly then it will typically have a small bulge / lip of plastic over the top that resists pullout.
And inserts have far better wear resistance if it's something that will be taken apart and reassembled.
@@skipfred Go ahead and test it yourself, I've done a ton of testing wrt using printed/cut threads vs using inserts. If you look at what I said, I considerably lengthened the amount of plastic that you'd need for the direct thread method. This reflects the difference in surface area per axis length between the two methods. I haven't worked out the ratio of surface area to diameter for a screw or an insert, but in general I've found you only need a printed thread with 2x the axis length of the insert in order for an M4 or larger to be superior to the insert. Of course there are different insert styles, and I'm using the double row chevron style, similar to the video. Spool style inserts are straight up garbage and should be avoided. I wouldn't use printed or cut threads in plastic if the screws are under M4 or 6-32. Too small of features for the polymer to retain strength after insertion.
You also need to consider that only the portions of knurling that are opposing the pulling force are really contributing to the holding force of the heatset insert. Yes you get some extra from the thermal bonding between plastic and brass, but brass is a pretty low surface energy material to begin with so it's not like that's going to do a lot. Depending on the polymer, you are also quite likely to overheat the plastic that is directly in contact with the heatset insert, greatly degrading the polymer structure, and making a severe weak point. While in many cases this doesn't matter, it sure does for pullout strength.
What the other gentleman suggested (inserting the heatset insert from the opposite side of the screw) is far superior to any small bulge or lip of plastic over the top that resists pullout. Additionally, I'd argue that if you have a bulge from a heatset insert, you have performed the installation incorrectly, as most are designed to be flush or subflush mounted.
Wear resistance is a good consideration, but I find the cheapo brass to be a bit cheesy. There have been plenty of tests comparing cut wood threads to insert threads, but I haven't done any longevity tests between cut or printed threads in plastic and insert threads. Keep in mind you only have a few mm of actual thread engagement with the inserts.
I learn so many cool ideas, printing tips and tricks from watching your videos. Thank you
Excellent
You could secure the sine connection by just a round dowel going across the bar in the middle of this connection.
another one nice video!
Hey, thanks for that!
one way you might be able to improve it is to have the holes perpendicular to the line of joint, using (solid, longitudinally printed) dowels instead of screws, possibly with a taper to them, to pull the parts tight.
congrats. now it's time to extrapolate this joint to a typical 3d-prited part scale - 2-3mm thick parts where we need reliable and secure joint.
Is that a typical printed part? Most of my parts are quite massive. I'm sure everyone has completely different parts and I won't pretend to be able to predict what people want to design and print.
Would be interesting to see how well ultrasonic energy can fuse the joint.
Golden content. For the Algorythm!!!
I've never used heat set inserts. Usually either tap a machine thread into the plastic if it doesn't need to be too durable or find a way to use a nut on the other end and bolt the parts together.
8:35 looks like the beginnings of a geodesic dome project. :)
Oh, that's a cool idea! That does give me an idea, I could make the connections 3D printed and have the rods made from wood. Most of the forces would be compressive it could be quite a strong frame.
You can make this fastenerless with a force fit. Make the overhangs extreme and grooved, but also barbed. A good shove will force the barbs in through the grooves on the matching part face, but they'll catch tight in their sockets on the way back out to hold tight.
I was just thinking that with an appropriate layer height, and slicing orientation, you may be able to use the layers themselves as barbs.
@@markbooth3066 No, don't do that, because the layers are planes of cleavage, and putting shear stress on them in the plane will make them split.
I was assuming you'd meet the barbed surfaces at ~45deg angle to each other, so the barbs were at a diagonal to the plane, rather than in the plane, but maybe I'm missing something here.
@@markbooth3066 Don't have the barbs stick to any particular plane.
@NEEDITMAKEIT you should make a seperate model that is just a 0.2mm thin body the shape of your split. That way you can insert in into your design and just combine cut you beams with it.
Regarding the angle you mention at the end of the video as being "too severe" and referring to timber framing using an angle only a few degrees off 90, I think the "severe" angle is just fine, and probably quite a bit better in 3d printed parts, depending on the print orientation. The timber frame scarf would risk splitting the timber along the grain under load, if the angle were too acute at that part of the joint. The same would be true if you were printing these with the orientation I think you used, with the long 8° surface facing up. The "grain" in your print could split at the point of the acute angled bit if the angle there were to aggressive. If on the other hand you printed perpendicular to the joint, your perimeters would be following the z shaped path and even a really acute angle there would be no problem at all, and likely an advantage.
That's a good point, it really depends on print orientation, the other issue that I was concerned about was the severe angle acting more as a lever, again it all depends on the way it is printed where it would be a problem or not. In the example from the video, the print should have been rotated 90 degrees for the best results. Also printing with anything CF or GF will cause a dramatic drop in layer adhesion. It's best to stick with Basic filaments.
How the heck do you get such a quality from your print! That looks amazing
You're addicted to 3d print joins aren't you?
I guess hell make his live easier if he moves to Holland 😂
With all the heatset inserts you install I'm surprised you're still using a soldering iron tip and not a tip designed for these inserts. I just got a set and love them. The inserts are always in line with the soldering iron and they never bind/stick to the iron causing the insert to pull back out when you remove the tip.
I just suggested that too. Another advantage is if you use something like a pinecil, the insert tip from CNC Kitchen has a pretty thin shaft which would have helped a lot here.
@@conorstewart2214 I looked up the ones from cnc kitchen, I have the "Virtjoule" branded ones off Amazon, they look pretty similar in length though it's hard to tell. I wonder if anyone makes even longer ones for really deep holes
Connections really are what separates the engineers from the total wankers. Well done.
Looking at the texture left by the printer, it occurred to me that if you had steps on the diagonals that were slightly slanted, you could press or hammer the pieces into each other while the steps clicked making it impossible to remove. Basically like zip ties. Without the unlocking mechanism.
With the screws at that steep of an angle, instead of heat inserts, how about drop in (square) nuts?
I would like to see this with wood screws and a denser part in the plastic itself for it to stick to
I can't wait for the test results! I'm curious is @CNCkitchen has seen this.
I'm curious too and I want to test in Torsion along with bending, I'll test deflection under load and I'll take each to the breaking point. I've tested in the past, but these tests will be better and should focus the force on the connection to make sure that the connection is the weak point... well that's the idea anyway. I'm sure Stephan @ CNC kitchen could take these ideas to the next level!
I started to add slots to my parts, so i can use nuts and bolts that i have lying around
Jon literally slammed his head into the level ceiling and died... of course he's not sure what went wrong...
Kanawa Tsugi, start and end construction improves stiffness
thanks for the research and the upload. wonder if a frankenstein soldering tip made from a suitable bolt would help install the inserts
You're very welcome! I definitely needed to plan ahead more on that insert.... I have my metal lathe in pieces while I restore it but after I have it together, I will make a new custom tip.
You didn't test it? In wood working it is easy to predict the point where wood will break or split depending upon the grain. Two long wedge ends overlapping has a lot of surface for a glue joint and using small to medium size staples can go together very quickly and accurately with no special notches required. Binding with glue and string or cloth ribbons is stronger than staples and glue alone. Your weak point is the oversized pilot hole you made for the screw to go through.
Cool project but I'm not convinced it's worth it. The final design has too many smooth surfaces that will slide and create outward pressure. The original joint with rounded corners against fracture points would probably be just as good and with one rib in the middle even better.
100% infill goes BRRRRRRRRRRRRRRRR
You make it look easy. How long did it take you to learn how to do this kind of stuff?
brilliant concept... would love timestamps or breaks in the video bc I only skimmed but I didnt see where the load bearing experiments were done??
If you were following along at home you can save yourself some time when you are dimensioning the parts of the plane by setting one distance equal to the other. For example he has the offset at the top at 10 mm and the length from the center point of 30 mm, you could make the bottom offset equal to the dimension name of the top offset and the other length equal to the dimension name. Hard to explain in text really easy to accomplish in the program
Agreed-it makes changing any of those numbers MUCH easier. If a number gets used across multiple sketches or operations it should be a parameter. Within a sketch, just click the reference number a dimension should equal. Updating the original number will update all references to it.
Yes, better to use parameters for long-term best practice. Sometimes the ideas just flow and I just go with it.
Beautiful connection!
you don't do tolerance/clearance on the drawing?
0:38 the version shown here lacks lateral stability apart from friction. I've seen versions of this in Japanese wood working which has a notch at each end and a tab that fits in the notch to prevent any sideways movement. *EDIT* It looks like the tabs and notches do what your wavy feature does.
Попробовали перенести мастерство японских столяров/плоников на 3Д печать :)
I’m new to 3d printing- for joining joints that are not being planned for disassembling, is it possible to use a resin or poxy in an addition to screw draw?
I've found the time and effort not to be worth it.
For me, a simple dovetail and glue does the job perfectly.
What about adjusting for fit. We can print one to one. What do you use?
Its seems like you could probably use a single profile sketch then a path sketch to give your wave shape with a swept surface.
I think there are some better ways for sure! I've been playing around with this method a bit more and surfaces in general, and every time I use it, I can find more uses for it. Initially it was bit tough to wrap my head around how to use it, now it seems like it's one more set of tools to add into the Fusion Tool Belt.