@@craigjohnstone87 Sure, if you are on Facebook hit me up facebook.com/profile.php?id=100011545324665 otherwise I am open to your suggestions regarding private communications.
I had 2 problems with the t-lite: Although the battery was fully charged, the device went off several times. The reason was the two pole contacts, which bend inwards over time on their own. Since that time I only buy batteries that have a positive pole with a nipple. That never happened to me again. Then it happened to me once that I inserted the battery incorrectly. After that, the t-lite was apparently dead. I then ordered a second one. 3 days later the apparently dead t-lite was working normally again. Now I have 2 devices.
Yeah, if you bend the contacts a bit, you can use the flat tops with no issues. But very interesting that your radio spontaneously started working again after putting the battery in the wrong way around. But it's always good to have a backup I guess ;-)
Doh, I guess there was a bad batch of these? I just got a notice and a refund from the vendor. The affected item is: LG HG2 INR 18650 Battery The message starts with: We have recently been advised of the possibility that a cell you purchased from us may be of substandard quality. Although we are presently unable to confirm that your cell was in this group, in an abundance of caution, we are offering a full refund for your purchase. Please allow up to 5 weeks for the refund to appear.
I think the main issue for external module bay is the voltage drop through the main board. I measured 3.8v at the output point to the ‘boost’ board while 4.1v at 18650. Now I added a dedicated cable to get voltage from battery lead to the boost board, with an exrtra switch in serial. I use 500mw and dynamic power off on Crsf micro tx daily with a Sony VTC6, so far so good.
Yes, that is my conclusion too. I am currently testing something similar, except using a fet for switching. Unfortunately I don't have a crossfire nano TX and I would need to test it with a constant current load...
Just received my Jumper T Pro V2. Noticed it switches off randomly... Figured it's due to bad contact with 18650 cells. Knocked it a little and it switched off again. Then knocked it harder and it did not power up again, and the cells started to rattle inside... Metal contacts got bent permanently. They should be made of good spring steel, but are just plain iron.... I imagine this is a problem to everyone. You don't want your remote to switch off mid flight, do you?
@@stylesuxx I will try it after tomorrow's paycheck arrives. Worst thing is burned 95USD. I really need the low profile TX because I don't always do things legally and want less attention.
I tried it today. It accepts 2S 18350 but only at 7.6 volt max, even after changing the opentx setting to 8.4V max. My application uses 250mW, and either 1S or 2S works just fine. I am going to stick with 1S for now because the 18350 or CR123 energy density is much lower. One bad thing I notice about the t-lite is that stick center point is off because of some slop after a rough software calibration. It needs extra care.
I wonder if a 21700 battery would be a better choice? Higher Amp battery with more capacity. This may help with battery rattle as the tray seem a little too big for 18650. Have you tried this
Battery rattle - I do not have it at all. I use flat tops instead of the recommended button tops and just bend the contact a bit. No, I have not tried 21700. I have seen others do. Not worth it in my opinion, just bring a second 18650 if you want more capacity. High quality 18650 can handle the CRSF Nano on 1W (modded) with no issues at all.
Not without modifications. And in my opinion, you wouldn't gain too much. I always take a spare 18650 and never had to swap it, even when running an external module - obviously this will depend on how long your sessions actually are ;-)
I have used a Jumper T-Lite transmitter multi-protocol for 1.5years, and often fly drones with/without my friends. In general, I feel that transmission distance is shorter. For example; - happymodel Mobula6 1s loses the signal around 15-25m without obstacles. FrSky binding.(but expect to reach around 150m) . max RSSI is 75, not 99, strange. - BetaFPV micro drone 2s (forgot model) loses the signal around 50m.FrSky binding (but expect to reach around 400m) - I have a free style FPV drones (iFlight and gepRC) with air-unit with FrSky XM+. They lose the signal around 1km. (but expect to reach around 2km) - In general, I found city sides have radio interfere, and a huge parks without people kinda better, but not significant range improvement. Does anyone know this is normal transmission range or too short and something wrong with my T-lite? I hope T-lite has booster option or may just change antenna simply, instead of installing additional kits.
Yeah, that's definitely not normal. you should try fine-tuning the frequency, at least on the AIOs it could help. I mostly fly in the city and have no range issues like you at all... You could try a different antenna, but if you are flying like this for over 1.5 years, chances are your RF module is burned out anyway :-/
@@stylesuxx thanks for your reply, stylesuxx. Could you describe more detail which tabs or pages of T-lite setting you are talking about ? AIOs sounds you mention drone settings?!?
@@upyopyo With AIO I mean the "all in one" Board of your Mobula6. The FrSky compatible D8 receivers are known to not be the greatest. To fine tune the frequency, power up the quad, place it around 2m away from the radio. On the radio go to the Tab where you set transmission protocol (Setup Tab). Then you chose "Freq tune", you increase the value until the quad loses connection (note the number), then you decrease the number until you lose connection again. You will then have a negative and a positive number, you add them up, devide by two und the resulting number is your optimal Frequecy tune.
@@stylesuxx now I understood what you mean. I've never tried it before, so let's see how it fixes the problem. Thank you so much a lot!! have a great day!
I could parallel connect a second 18650 to this radio. Mount it perhaps on bottom side between the grip handles. Same voltage but more "depth" of power. Would this type mod cause a problem?
I don't really see the upside of this. You could do it without issues. But you could also just swap the cell when it gets too low. Unless you NEED to be able to discharge to low voltages and want to compensate with multiple cells in parallel...
Just got my t-lite and do you know how to tell when its done charging without turning it on? The blue light just keeps staying on and no other indication that it is done charging?
It needs a (high quality) 18650 cell. Once you have the cell in the radio you can charge it with the radio. But the radio does not come with an internal battery if that was your question.
Your radio does not work? Well - you need an 18650 battery and it is important to insert it correctly, if you put it in the wrong way around your radio is fried...
After 2 weeks of use my T-Lite does not turn on anymore. I was hoping it was my bad luck but I'm reading lots of comments with the same problem. Once again Jumper prefers to market a faulty radio, at the expense of us consumers. For details: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3754503-Jumper-T-Lite-another-Lite-radio/page66
Hmm, I've heard that now a couple of times. I have personally no issues yet. But I also think they rushed the release - they wanted to get it out the door before CNY and that might now be the consequences. Have you tried getting it replaced? I buy most of my stuff from BangGood and always had great experience with customer support there.
@@stylesuxx no, no replace. Trash. I wanna forgot the brand Jumper forever. Radiomaster is 1000 time better. A TX12 have the same price and is pretty solid controller....
@@ergot83 Did you try speaking to Jumper? But yeah - I can understand that you are unhappy. I can't stand the big controllers, so the Radiomaster stuff is not really an option for me - and their gamepad shaped controller is seriously lacking in features :-(
Are you aware if there is some battery overcharge protection in the radio internal charger? I can't find any information about it. I'm asking because while I'm learning to fly in Liftoff my Jumper radio is connected to my computer via USB and the battery id constantly loading.
Yep, no worries it uses the TP4054 chip for charging. that is a dedicated LiIon charger IC. It has temperature protection and monitors the charge voltage.
@@stylesuxx Thank you mate! I was worried because the display showed 4.3V, but after measuring the battery voltage with a multimeter it was 4.05V so I calibrated it like you did. I'm using a new high quality Samsung 30Q battery. There is this setting called "Battery range", I was wondering if it has some impact on the overcharge and/or undercharge level cut.
@@mariuszwawka No, battery range is what is used to display the battery bars. There is no cut off voltage, the radio will run until your battery is completely discharged or the SOC does not get enough voltage - which happens at 2V - only then will it turn off.
Technically, that would be an option, yes - but you would for example lose the functionality to charge your battery from the radio. This is one of the solutions I had in mind when I said "Hardware modification".
It seems Gal Kremer was a bit quicker than me, and provides some good solutions over in his vid for powering the external modules, like CRSF Nano => ua-cam.com/video/neJLQ_IHj_o/v-deo.html
The values you're getting are typical of cheap lithium-ion batteries. good genuine batteries will always weigh in in the high 40 g area. And they will have anywhere between 2500 and 3500 capacity
@stylesuxx MOD add 2 extra batteries like BetaFpv lite radio 2 mods :D Do you have plans looking into external modul voltage regulator preformance on "adapter" ?
That will not work easily. The BetaFPV Lite Radio is designed for a 2S battery. The board of the T-Lite is unfortunately not. Yes, my current idea is to run power from battery to the module directly and switch wie transistor. But I need to do a couple more measurements...
As per request, the hardware mod vidoe is now available: ua-cam.com/video/b7OCdkkKmrc/v-deo.html *EDIT 24.01.2022:* Before buying this product, please be aware that some users experience problems with "sticky buttons" - this can be fixed but you will have to de-solder some caps from the board.
Hi, I am also interested in the hardware mod. Also 2 short questions: Does 20700 battery fit inside the battery bay without much modding? Is there any chance that an 18500 battery will fit in the right arm of the transmitter? The people that modded Betafpv Light Radio 2 managed to fit 18500 in both arms, and T-Lite is the same physical size as the Betafpv radio.
I don't think that a 20700 will fit - also the benefit would be minimal - slightly more capacity. But I don't have one to try it out. And it is quite possible that you are able to fit batteries in the handles. From what I can see it is the exact same shell. But if you are willing to go through this kind of hassle, why not take a radio that supports all of that out of the box? Also you will not be easily able to charge the batteries - this thing is designed for 1S, so to charge 2, you would need to run your own charging electronics (at least I assume that. I will take a closer look at the PCB though.)
@@stylesuxx Thanks for your answer. Regarding 18500 battery only in the right handle (left one has the speaker) I would use it in parallel with the main 18650, so the input voltage will remain 1S, but the capacity will increase ;) I have a feeling T-lite radio will be very popular. I ordered mine 2 weeks ago (I'm in Europe), so it's still in transit.
@@sempron1500 that is what i may do with the battery issue ,toping up the capacity by ......x external 18650 batt using a dc plug.mine is on the way too
I received the controller, I did the 1W CRSF mod, changed some switches. Unfortunately an extra 18500 battery does not fit in the right handle. This is because the multimodule is too wide, so you cannot rotate the hall gimbals like you may do on the BetaFPV liteRadio 2. It might fit if you remove the multimodule and rotate the right gimbal 180°.
hi, did you notice the jumper t-lite overcharging the 18650? while playing the simulator for a long time, I noticed that the display voltage can increase to 4.3V
Me personally in any radio I recharge the battery’s when there at 3.4 anyways so this would never affect me. The radio starts cheeping at you before any of the strange gimbal reading so any normal human would swap the battery cause that sound is annoying lol
Well, sure - if the battery is of high quality and discharges linearly then it will not be an issue. The whole point is using low quality batteries and external modules that will, due to higher current draw make the battery drop below safe voltages. People are also used to being able to discharge LiIon batteries way lower than LiPo batteries. So yeah, a higher battery alarm voltage and a high quality cell and you are on the safe side.
Which part can't you get to work exactly? Just power on, plug in via USB and a new device should pop up. Do this before starting the sim and you should be good to go.
@@jakelang4387 which OS are you using? Can you see the divice in the device manager when you plug it in? Have you tried a different cable? Which simulator are you using?
@@jakelang4387 I see - never heard of that one, but as long as the device shows up in the device manager you should be good to go. If it does show up in the device manager but not the sim I guess you are better of asking the sim devs how to get everything running.
and cells use sony samsung or lg cells and 3000 mah is the most you can get you see 2500 of 5ooo mah its a lie they fill them with powered to get the wieght up buy off a reputable supplier youll pay upwards of 10 dollars a cell is a good price 6 or so is alright you get what you pay for speech dont buy off any site other than sony or samsung etc
heres the truth never buy anything thats single cell sure tiny cheap whoops but more expeisive ones and transmitters dont buy single cell 2s for a whoop or transmitter is what you want 3 ideal.. why this shows that the single cell lithion once it goes lower the transmitt power fluctuates and sends eratic commands.. who in their right mind made this single cell glad i didnt buy one i bought one of those radio kings suggest youall do too.. sure its a cheap transmitter but why buy it well its cheap it only outputs 25mw its only good for whoops or close in stuff.. save your money get a proper radio and for long range stuff use a quality radio... glad i skipped buying this i knew something was off second i heard single cell and 25mw output...
The internal multi protocol module has actually an output of 100mW. The 25mW limitation is when using the external Crossfire module. For me this radio is perfect - I fly whoops and micros 90% of the time and I do not use crossfire. But yeah - I fully agree, when you want crossfire on full blast, this radio is not for you - would rather go with the Tango 2.
For the price it is pretty amazing - use it almost daily for over half a year now. Don't know how well it is suited for planes to be honest... I would image something with mechanical trims to be better...
@@stylesuxx all it has to be is reliable. The one i had failed within an hour :( They replaced it but im aprehensive. For big petrol stuff im almost tempted to go back to my old 35mhz futaba... Never missed a beat in about 14 years
@@WikWak You know what they say: Never change a working system. Really sad to hear that it failed so quickly - might I ask, what failed? I can understand that you are apprehensive if it failed on you the first time. Keep in mind that a 70$ Jumper radio is difficult to compare to even the cheapest Futaba...
@@stylesuxx one of the gimbals, it was stuck on full elevator down 😬 I get where youre coming from, the futaba is like 15 years old. And was only twice the price when new. I was thinking this would be better in every way
Very interested in hardware mod! Really want some 1W safe to operate crossfireage.
Great video and very well explained and demonstrated.
Thanks for your interest and the kind words. There seems to be some interest in the hardware mod - I will put something together.
@@stylesuxx I have some thoughts to if you would like to swap ideas? Can message me privately if your interested.
@@craigjohnstone87 Sure, if you are on Facebook hit me up facebook.com/profile.php?id=100011545324665 otherwise I am open to your suggestions regarding private communications.
this is amazing material! Thanks for doing that! It would be amazing to see comparison of how does it work with different express elrs modules.
No issues with ELRS modules after you do the power mod. Tried the happymodel one and the BetaFPV one, no issues with either.
Pls do a hardware mod video....thanks again for the great info
hardware mods? yes, please! Also, most informative power-info on my Jumper lite, thanks a bunch!
It's already done ;-) ua-cam.com/video/b7OCdkkKmrc/v-deo.html
Thanks. I like your thoroughness and fact-based advice. I have subscribed to your channel. Keep going for the gold!
Really nice video and good information, if you can explore a hardware mode I would really appreciate it.
OK, seems there actually is some interest, I will put something together.
@@stylesuxx thank you, I'll be waiting for your video.
Thank you for your time and dedication... Your videos are really helping me to setup this amazing rc tx... Thank you very much!!!
Happy I could help you - thanks for the kind words :-)
I had 2 problems with the t-lite:
Although the battery was fully charged, the device went off several times. The reason was the two pole contacts, which bend inwards over time on their own. Since that time I only buy batteries that have a positive pole with a nipple. That never happened to me again.
Then it happened to me once that I inserted the battery incorrectly. After that, the t-lite was apparently dead. I then ordered a second one.
3 days later the apparently dead t-lite was working normally again. Now I have 2 devices.
Yeah, if you bend the contacts a bit, you can use the flat tops with no issues. But very interesting that your radio spontaneously started working again after putting the battery in the wrong way around. But it's always good to have a backup I guess ;-)
Doh, I guess there was a bad batch of these? I just got a notice and a refund from the vendor.
The affected item is:
LG HG2 INR 18650 Battery
The message starts with:
We have recently been advised of the possibility that a cell you purchased from us may be of substandard quality. Although we are presently unable to confirm that your cell was in this group, in an abundance of caution, we are offering a full refund for your purchase. Please allow up to 5 weeks for the refund to appear.
Oh. But awesome vendor that he is refunidng you the potentially bad battery.
I'm shure that hardware mod is the best solution, so plz make a video about it. Thanks for content!
I am on it - finished testing yesterday, currently in the process of editing - should be up later today.
@@stylesuxx wow, great! My jumper is coming to me in a few days, so i want to upgrade it immediately
I think the main issue for external module bay is the voltage drop through the main board. I measured 3.8v at the output point to the ‘boost’ board while 4.1v at 18650. Now I added a dedicated cable to get voltage from battery lead to the boost board, with an exrtra switch in serial. I use 500mw and dynamic power off on Crsf micro tx daily with a Sony VTC6, so far so good.
Yes, that is my conclusion too. I am currently testing something similar, except using a fet for switching. Unfortunately I don't have a crossfire nano TX and I would need to test it with a constant current load...
Awesome! Thanks for sharing! 🤠👍
known issue with setting power to 1w blows components on the main board!
Just received my Jumper T Pro V2. Noticed it switches off randomly... Figured it's due to bad contact with 18650 cells. Knocked it a little and it switched off again. Then knocked it harder and it did not power up again, and the cells started to rattle inside... Metal contacts got bent permanently. They should be made of good spring steel, but are just plain iron.... I imagine this is a problem to everyone. You don't want your remote to switch off mid flight, do you?
Very useful video, many thanks.
Happy that it helps :-)
Great video. Thank you!
Subscribed
anybody using this tx need to subscribe to your channel
Haha, very kind of you.
Is it possible to install 2 18350 in series, flat top and maybe trim out the spring in the battery holder?
That could work space wise - not sure if the rest of the electronics can handle 2S though.
@@stylesuxx I will try it after tomorrow's paycheck arrives. Worst thing is burned 95USD. I really need the low profile TX because I don't always do things legally and want less attention.
@@johncgibson4720 The question is, which problem are you trying to solve with 2S?
I tried it today. It accepts 2S 18350 but only at 7.6 volt max, even after changing the opentx setting to 8.4V max. My application uses 250mW, and either 1S or 2S works just fine. I am going to stick with 1S for now because the 18350 or CR123 energy density is much lower. One bad thing I notice about the t-lite is that stick center point is off because of some slop after a rough software calibration. It needs extra care.
i also using ultrafire battery😂 now its time to change to vtc6 liion battery
Yes! Do a hardware mod!
I wonder if a 21700 battery would be a better choice? Higher Amp battery with more capacity. This may help with battery rattle as the tray seem a little too big for 18650. Have you tried this
Battery rattle - I do not have it at all. I use flat tops instead of the recommended button tops and just bend the contact a bit. No, I have not tried 21700. I have seen others do. Not worth it in my opinion, just bring a second 18650 if you want more capacity. High quality 18650 can handle the CRSF Nano on 1W (modded) with no issues at all.
Great Vid ! i just got a question: Can u fit a 21700 batterie in it?
Not without modifications. And in my opinion, you wouldn't gain too much. I always take a spare 18650 and never had to swap it, even when running an external module - obviously this will depend on how long your sessions actually are ;-)
I have used a Jumper T-Lite transmitter multi-protocol for 1.5years, and often fly drones with/without my friends. In general, I feel that transmission distance is shorter. For example;
- happymodel Mobula6 1s loses the signal around 15-25m without obstacles. FrSky binding.(but expect to reach around 150m) . max RSSI is 75, not 99, strange.
- BetaFPV micro drone 2s (forgot model) loses the signal around 50m.FrSky binding (but expect to reach around 400m)
- I have a free style FPV drones (iFlight and gepRC) with air-unit with FrSky XM+. They lose the signal around 1km. (but expect to reach around 2km)
- In general, I found city sides have radio interfere, and a huge parks without people kinda better, but not significant range improvement.
Does anyone know this is normal transmission range or too short and something wrong with my T-lite? I hope T-lite has booster option or may just change antenna simply, instead of installing additional kits.
Yeah, that's definitely not normal. you should try fine-tuning the frequency, at least on the AIOs it could help. I mostly fly in the city and have no range issues like you at all... You could try a different antenna, but if you are flying like this for over 1.5 years, chances are your RF module is burned out anyway :-/
@@stylesuxx thanks for your reply, stylesuxx. Could you describe more detail which tabs or pages of T-lite setting you are talking about ? AIOs sounds you mention drone settings?!?
@@upyopyo With AIO I mean the "all in one" Board of your Mobula6. The FrSky compatible D8 receivers are known to not be the greatest. To fine tune the frequency, power up the quad, place it around 2m away from the radio. On the radio go to the Tab where you set transmission protocol (Setup Tab). Then you chose "Freq tune", you increase the value until the quad loses connection (note the number), then you decrease the number until you lose connection again. You will then have a negative and a positive number, you add them up, devide by two und the resulting number is your optimal Frequecy tune.
@@stylesuxx now I understood what you mean. I've never tried it before, so let's see how it fixes the problem. Thank you so much a lot!! have a great day!
@@upyopyo let me know how it works out for you.
I could parallel connect a second 18650 to this radio. Mount it perhaps on bottom side between the grip handles. Same voltage but more "depth" of power. Would this type mod cause a problem?
I don't really see the upside of this. You could do it without issues. But you could also just swap the cell when it gets too low. Unless you NEED to be able to discharge to low voltages and want to compensate with multiple cells in parallel...
Hey!
I'm thinking about buying a meteor65.
What receiver should I chose for the T-lite?
Thanks, Erik.
FrSky will be fine.
Good info thanks. Do you know if the higher quality batteries will let you do 1W power with the external module?
Not without a hardware modification.
Just got my t-lite and do you know how to tell when its done charging without turning it on? The blue light just keeps staying on and no other indication that it is done charging?
I would assume the light goes out, but I have actually not tried it since I charge my 18650ies with an external charger... Need to have a look myself.
@@stylesuxx please let me know if you find out, thank you!
May i ask can you charge the T-Lite or it needs battery?
It needs a (high quality) 18650 cell. Once you have the cell in the radio you can charge it with the radio. But the radio does not come with an internal battery if that was your question.
@@stylesuxx Omg tysm for replying ty for the information ill just buy the 18650 charger
Hi, I got one but it doesn't work Do you need a special battery Can you explain please
Your radio does not work? Well - you need an 18650 battery and it is important to insert it correctly, if you put it in the wrong way around your radio is fried...
After 2 weeks of use my T-Lite does not turn on anymore. I was hoping it was my bad luck but I'm reading lots of comments with the same problem. Once again Jumper prefers to market a faulty radio, at the expense of us consumers. For details: www.rcgroups.com/forums/showthread.php?3754503-Jumper-T-Lite-another-Lite-radio/page66
Hmm, I've heard that now a couple of times. I have personally no issues yet. But I also think they rushed the release - they wanted to get it out the door before CNY and that might now be the consequences. Have you tried getting it replaced? I buy most of my stuff from BangGood and always had great experience with customer support there.
@@stylesuxx no, no replace. Trash. I wanna forgot the brand Jumper forever. Radiomaster is 1000 time better. A TX12 have the same price and is pretty solid controller....
@@ergot83 Did you try speaking to Jumper? But yeah - I can understand that you are unhappy. I can't stand the big controllers, so the Radiomaster stuff is not really an option for me - and their gamepad shaped controller is seriously lacking in features :-(
@@stylesuxx yeah you talk about the Radiomaster T8. But the TX12 170x159mm size is not so big. And seems to give no prob...
Are you aware if there is some battery overcharge protection in the radio internal charger? I can't find any information about it. I'm asking because while I'm learning to fly in Liftoff my Jumper radio is connected to my computer via USB and the battery id constantly loading.
Yep, no worries it uses the TP4054 chip for charging. that is a dedicated LiIon charger IC. It has temperature protection and monitors the charge voltage.
@@stylesuxx Thank you mate! I was worried because the display showed 4.3V, but after measuring the battery voltage with a multimeter it was 4.05V so I calibrated it like you did. I'm using a new high quality Samsung 30Q battery.
There is this setting called "Battery range", I was wondering if it has some impact on the overcharge and/or undercharge level cut.
@@mariuszwawka No, battery range is what is used to display the battery bars. There is no cut off voltage, the radio will run until your battery is completely discharged or the SOC does not get enough voltage - which happens at 2V - only then will it turn off.
@@stylesuxx Thanks once more for the explanation!
Couldnt you just drop a 2s lipo in there with a voltage regulator?
Technically, that would be an option, yes - but you would for example lose the functionality to charge your battery from the radio. This is one of the solutions I had in mind when I said "Hardware modification".
Wenn ich einen 1W boooster an meinen 4in1 anschließe, gilt das auch für die verkabelung an + nicht nur an + für external?
Sorry, ich verstehe die Frage nicht ganz. Im optimalfall hängst du dich mit deinem Booster direkt an die Batterie...
It seems Gal Kremer was a bit quicker than me, and provides some good solutions over in his vid for powering the external modules, like CRSF Nano => ua-cam.com/video/neJLQ_IHj_o/v-deo.html
Thanks for your insights and for sharing my video :-)
@@KremerFPV Very welcome :-)
So the solution is just to power it by internal battery directly. Hm, it's not ideal, but at least it works)
@@dmitrysozinov2391 I have a slightly more convenient solution that is properly switching the module on and off - stay tuned.
The values you're getting are typical of cheap lithium-ion batteries. good genuine batteries will always weigh in in the high 40 g area. And they will have anywhere between 2500 and 3500 capacity
Yes, that's what I was trying to say ;-)
Could you give me a link of a suitable 18650 battery to buy? for this same jumper t-lite. Thank u :)
LG HG2 - your closest vape shop should carry those.
@stylesuxx MOD add 2 extra batteries like BetaFpv lite radio 2 mods :D Do you have plans looking into external modul voltage regulator preformance on "adapter" ?
That will not work easily. The BetaFPV Lite Radio is designed for a 2S battery. The board of the T-Lite is unfortunately not. Yes, my current idea is to run power from battery to the module directly and switch wie transistor. But I need to do a couple more measurements...
Do you think 21700 battery will fit into this with some modification?
3mm difference.
Length wise it should not be an issue (if you use flat top), but I don't think it will fit width wise. I don't have one to test unfortunately.
@@stylesuxx Thanks. It looks like that it will need a mod to take some plastics out. I can't wait to get mine. Thanks for info.
@@RPiao Keep me posted!
Sticks were moving every where.. Wonder how the quad would fly lmao 🤣
You would be pretty amazing if you could still land it at this point :-D
I wanna see the hardware mods
Now available here => ua-cam.com/video/b7OCdkkKmrc/v-deo.html
Can you fly a drone while you have the controller charging?
No.
@@stylesuxx :(
As per request, the hardware mod vidoe is now available: ua-cam.com/video/b7OCdkkKmrc/v-deo.html
*EDIT 24.01.2022:* Before buying this product, please be aware that some users experience problems with "sticky buttons" - this can be fixed but you will have to de-solder some caps from the board.
Woot!
InstaBlaster...
Thanks.
i thought the alarm sound was a part of the backgrond music 😁
Haha, yeah - the alarm is quite melodic :-D
Hi, I am also interested in the hardware mod. Also 2 short questions:
Does 20700 battery fit inside the battery bay without much modding?
Is there any chance that an 18500 battery will fit in the right arm of the transmitter? The people that modded Betafpv Light Radio 2 managed to fit 18500 in both arms, and T-Lite is the same physical size as the Betafpv radio.
I don't think that a 20700 will fit - also the benefit would be minimal - slightly more capacity. But I don't have one to try it out. And it is quite possible that you are able to fit batteries in the handles. From what I can see it is the exact same shell. But if you are willing to go through this kind of hassle, why not take a radio that supports all of that out of the box? Also you will not be easily able to charge the batteries - this thing is designed for 1S, so to charge 2, you would need to run your own charging electronics (at least I assume that. I will take a closer look at the PCB though.)
@@stylesuxx Thanks for your answer. Regarding 18500 battery only in the right handle (left one has the speaker) I would use it in parallel with the main 18650, so the input voltage will remain 1S, but the capacity will increase ;)
I have a feeling T-lite radio will be very popular.
I ordered mine 2 weeks ago (I'm in Europe), so it's still in transit.
@@sempron1500 I see, yes - you could do parallel. Hope it is already shipped out, otherwise you will have to wait until after Chinese new year :-/
@@sempron1500 that is what i may do with the battery issue ,toping up the capacity by ......x external 18650 batt using a dc plug.mine is on the way too
I received the controller, I did the 1W CRSF mod, changed some switches.
Unfortunately an extra 18500 battery does not fit in the right handle. This is because the multimodule is too wide, so you cannot rotate the hall gimbals like you may do on the BetaFPV liteRadio 2. It might fit if you remove the multimodule and rotate the right gimbal 180°.
hi, did you notice the jumper t-lite overcharging the 18650? while playing the simulator for a long time, I noticed that the display voltage can increase to 4.3V
No, i have not noticed that. Have you measured the battery itself? Maybe the voltage readout is simply not properly calibrated within openTX...
@@stylesuxx I will check this later at home
Thx for this vid
Then I won’t go that low😉👍🏻
Where do i but a high quality 18650 cell can you reply with a link
I don't know where you are from, so difficult with a link. But you can go to your closest vape shop - they use the same cells. Ask for a LG HG2.
Hi.. im using nitecore 18650 32a discharge is that ok?
Sorry, I can't find that battery on the site with the battery tests, so no idea. If you don't use an external module you will probably be fine...
Me personally in any radio I recharge the battery’s when there at 3.4 anyways so this would never affect me. The radio starts cheeping at you before any of the strange gimbal reading so any normal human would swap the battery cause that sound is annoying lol
Well, sure - if the battery is of high quality and discharges linearly then it will not be an issue. The whole point is using low quality batteries and external modules that will, due to higher current draw make the battery drop below safe voltages. People are also used to being able to discharge LiIon batteries way lower than LiPo batteries. So yeah, a higher battery alarm voltage and a high quality cell and you are on the safe side.
How do you use this radio von a sim .I can't get it to work
Which part can't you get to work exactly? Just power on, plug in via USB and a new device should pop up. Do this before starting the sim and you should be good to go.
@@stylesuxx I try again keep getting unable to recognize device pop up..was going to try the free demo on clear flight..
@@jakelang4387 which OS are you using? Can you see the divice in the device manager when you plug it in? Have you tried a different cable? Which simulator are you using?
@@stylesuxx clear flight sim is free they say for 4 month..that's the one I was trying to connect to . No haven't but I will
@@jakelang4387 I see - never heard of that one, but as long as the device shows up in the device manager you should be good to go. If it does show up in the device manager but not the sim I guess you are better of asking the sim devs how to get everything running.
By the way what accent is yours ?
Obviously you are not into action movies :-D lot's of people leave Schwarzenegger references under my vids - and it is true, I am from Austria too :-D
and cells use sony samsung or lg cells and 3000 mah is the most you can get you see 2500 of 5ooo mah its a lie they fill them with powered to get the wieght up buy off a reputable supplier youll pay upwards of 10 dollars a cell is a good price 6 or so is alright you get what you pay for speech dont buy off any site other than sony or samsung etc
Yes fully agree on this one - buy high quality cells from reputable vendors. The good ones are not so expensive, so no reason to save money there.
Vape shop they have better quality battery
Yup, also my recommendation. Most will have at least one around them and they usually tend to have the higher quality ones.
heres the truth never buy anything thats single cell sure tiny cheap whoops but more expeisive ones and transmitters dont buy single cell 2s for a whoop or transmitter is what you want 3 ideal.. why this shows that the single cell lithion once it goes lower the transmitt power fluctuates and sends eratic commands.. who in their right mind made this single cell glad i didnt buy one i bought one of those radio kings suggest youall do too.. sure its a cheap transmitter but why buy it well its cheap it only outputs 25mw its only good for whoops or close in stuff.. save your money get a proper radio and for long range stuff use a quality radio... glad i skipped buying this i knew something was off second i heard single cell and 25mw output...
The internal multi protocol module has actually an output of 100mW. The 25mW limitation is when using the external Crossfire module. For me this radio is perfect - I fly whoops and micros 90% of the time and I do not use crossfire. But yeah - I fully agree, when you want crossfire on full blast, this radio is not for you - would rather go with the Tango 2.
Don’t buy that red battery
Yeah, that's basically the point of the video ;-)
This really is a cheap shit transmitter. Nothing about it fills me with confidence.
I wanted to fly petrol planes on it but i dont think i will now :(
For the price it is pretty amazing - use it almost daily for over half a year now. Don't know how well it is suited for planes to be honest... I would image something with mechanical trims to be better...
@@stylesuxx all it has to be is reliable. The one i had failed within an hour :(
They replaced it but im aprehensive. For big petrol stuff im almost tempted to go back to my old 35mhz futaba... Never missed a beat in about 14 years
@@WikWak You know what they say: Never change a working system. Really sad to hear that it failed so quickly - might I ask, what failed? I can understand that you are apprehensive if it failed on you the first time. Keep in mind that a 70$ Jumper radio is difficult to compare to even the cheapest Futaba...
@@stylesuxx one of the gimbals, it was stuck on full elevator down 😬
I get where youre coming from, the futaba is like 15 years old. And was only twice the price when new.
I was thinking this would be better in every way
@@stylesuxx great content by the way. You seem well educated :)