Cranky, I enjoyed your presentation and insight to detail. Our process is very similar. There are now several coatings available and more will be developed. The best part is that it can be done by individuals. Thank you for the video. Dan Dix
I just completed about 15 pounds of 175 grainers for my Glock 20. I used a teaspoon per five pounds and cooked them at 400 degrees for 25 minutes starting with a cold oven. Three coats. They passed the smash test and the coating did not come off during the acetone rub test. I like this better than powder coating …. Thanks for the info.
Cleatus . I was lucky enough to have been introduced to the hy-tek powder coating process from the beginning . I would never ever ever use another process. There is absolutely no waste what so ever . It is very clean if you wear gloves and just a little tip . I use canned air to speed up the shake process of getting the acetone to evaporate and it works GREAT !!! No more shaking for 1 to 3 minutes till evaporating. Just a blast or 2 of air and it is gone and then as you shake it clumps up and as we all know thats what you are looking for to tell you the acetone is gone and only powder left on bullet . Give it a try . I think you will be pleasantly surprised at the speed involved and shaking a heavy bucket is labor intensive after a few batches so this REALLY helps speed up the process :-) Thanks for showing people this process as it works THE BEST PERIOD !!! Complete uniform coverage each and every time unlike the harbor freight process . I get my powder from Missouri Bullet company they have great prices and send right to your door . Thanks again Buddy . Ron
Thanks for sharing this. Was wondering about the difference between it and powder coating. Everyone seems to make out that the Hi-tec is a pain and really messy, but it looks like anything else. The more prep you do before, the easier it is.
Mike Treen I found it had a bigger learning curve. Basically I got good PC results right away doing the Elvis shake & bake. It took me 4 tries to get my HT process worked out. I also watch the oven temp more religiously than I do with PC. With PC I usually set the timer and walk away and maybe check it once while it’s baking. HT I’ll check every 2-3 minutes because you can over cook them pretty easily.
@@CrankyCleatus I have been a religious user of plain straight liquid Alox since I started reloading in early 1993. However, the 45-45-10 and THIS looks to have merit. I would try both right away if I wasn't buried so deep in credit card debt. Still... I would like some recommendations from you on types of acetone resistant utility containers ect that you use. Did you find your electric oven at a "used store"? Any recommendations at this point would be beneficial for me IF I ever get my credit card debt down,(I'm on SSDI, but "working on it".) It appears that you must have a airtight shaker container for unused product to keep the acetone from evaporating. What kind of metal did you make your drying screen out of ?🤔 "Expiring minds want to know".🤔 The more info you give, the better chance one will have of a "first time go". 👍😉. In the meantime, I will subscribe...👀
Cleatus. Nice presentation, I like your ability to show how, without sounding like we are in school and have to take notes. Thanks for sharing with us, Btw, high tech coating is a process that many casters never look in to, I believe that it provides a uniform coating that is even all the way around. May have an edge on accuracy over powder coat? Maybe. I believe that distance tells the story. That is my assumption. as you know, I'm a Tridshonal sizer lubricator guy, However, I'm glad to see that there are methods for guys to use that don't involve a huge investment to get quality accurate projectiles. Good video. Dave
Thor's Axe Thank you. I’ve never tried traditional lubes yet. I’ve never tested PC coating vs HT to see if you get more velocity with one or the other. I suspect HT will get slightly higher speeds since the coating seems slicker. I know I don’t have to change load data to go from one to the other, so any differences can’t be much. My 300blk load I developed using PC shoots just as well with HT bullets. 😁
.300 blackout is one of those cartridges where casting just makes a lot of sense from what I see on youtube. .30cal bullets, even the 147gr FMJBT are $$$$. and overall accuracy for the range of the .300 does not justify as an edge with the FMJ bullets. (In My Opinion) from what I see. The .300 Blackout seems to be the little Darling down at the shin-dig that everyone likes to dance with, light recoil and ballistic foot pounds is a big plus and all in an AR package.
It's a fun cartridge. If/when I move out of NJ I'd like to experiment more with it suppressed and in an AR. Right now I'm just shooting it out of a Ruger American Ranch. I shot a 1" group at 100 yards with a 145g cast bullet at 2077fps, using LC 223 brass I converted. It's not a long range gun, but it's great for banging steel at the range with my son. :)
I bought some .40 match projectiles from a local company that uses the Hi-Tek coating. The coolest thing I have noticed is that it actually helps remove copper fouling from the barrel. If I've been shooting jacketed ammo for awhile, I can load a couple mags of the Hi-Tek stuff & the majority of the fouling is out of the barrel.
You forgot to stand them on their bases! Hahaha, just kidding man. This looks like a really solid option for bullet coating. I wouldn't mind giving it a try. Great video, very informative! 👍🇺🇸
Thanks for the close ups. I was hoping to get true solid color but I can see that even after 3 coats you can still see small specks of what appears bare lead.
Gonna disagree...bright LED lights in the garage show glare...absolutely no lead showing even after 2 coats, let alone 3. Not trying to sell anyone on hi-tek. I still PC too, especially rifle ammo...but can’t beat hi-tek for bulk pistol ammo.
@@CrankyCleatus I don't know but it does look that way at 12:40 and it's not lights glare, I can see the difference. I am still going to order and try Hi-Tek, I powder coat now but I want mark free and 100% coverage.
@@DimaProk still gonna disagree..i have LEDs hanging over my bench...after 3 coats there is zero lead showing, just camera catching glare. Like I said, I use both hi-tek, and PC...like them both...hi-tek has a little more learning curve than PC, so don’t quit too easy, most fail on 1st attempt. I know I did.
I wonder if you could do this with powder coat paints? You know mix them to a thin consistency like this hi-tek coating except with powder coat, just enough to apply a nice thin layer and just recoat 2-3 times to get a smoother finish. I will be experimenting with this!
Do you try the acetone test wiping the bullet. Had a batch that gave a bit of coating residue after I wiped it with acetone. Bullet seems hard and not sticky at all and passed the hammer test. I feel there good but wonder if you have any thought on this👍good video man
I have but usually just do the hammer test now. Early on, I over cooked a couple batches and they failed both tests. Never had issues shooting anything that passed the hammer test so I’m comfortable with just doing the one test.👍 I’d shoot them if I was you 😁.
Georgiaboy44 Curious to see how they shoot in your 94. Don't you have more snakes you could test it out on. 🐍🔫😂 I need to get back to load development myself, maybe that 8208-XBR will be the ticket. 👍
If they are freshly cast and haven't been handled a lot than you can probably skip it. I usually do it anyway...not long, just a 10 or 15 minute soak. I have a couple bullets that I'll lube and resize before I coat...and those I give a good long overnight soak to get all the lube off before coating.
@@CrankyCleatus followed your directions and when I attempted to size, I had to use a lot of effort to seat the bullets into my lee sizing die. The sizing step shaved and exposed some of the coating and the outer edges from the base of my bullets come out rough also exposing parts of lead. Any tips on how to fix this or know what I'm doing wrong?
@@bryansandoval3498 Sounds like a failed coating? Did you do a hammer 🔨 test and smash one of your bullets? It shouldn’t flake off. When done right, the hi-tek finish should have sleek feel and act as a lube when sizing. Haven’t seen your issue unless the bullets where over cooked and coating became dry and flaky.
bill johnson I think the coating is more even and consistent. It doesn’t add the thickness that PC does either, so if you have a tight chamber the thickness of PC can impact seating depth. The bullets don’t stick when baking and even though it takes multiple coats, I feel like I can do larger batches of HT than PC. Bake time is 8-12 minutes instead of 20. I like both and will continue to use both for now.
I never tried that kind of coating on a bullet how fast can you shoot it before it starts leading? What’s the difference between that and regular lubricated bullets?
Lever guns 50-110 WCF I've never shot traditionally lubed bullets, so I can't compare the two. I have heard people who shot both say that PC or HT are less smoky. Leading is mostly caused by gas cutting due to undersized bullets. I've never had any leading using PC or HT. I shoot 145g plain base cast bullet 2077fps in 300BLK with no issues. The 124g bullet in this video at 2150fps in 357 without leading. 165g gas checked cast bullet at 2285fps in 30-30, without leading. All 3 of my pistols 380, 9mm, & 40 using PC & HT without leading. I don't cast for 223 yet, since bulk 55gr bullets are so cheap, I just haven't bothered.
CrankyCleatus Thanks for answering my questions, A hard cast bullet is only good for about 2200 FPS with traditional lubrication and gas checks I have wrap them with teflon tape around them to get a little bit more speed out of them, keep up the good work thanks for sharing
That’s really cool now we’re do you get the hi-tek powder from I would like to give it a try now I have tried the powder coat with acetone and they didn’t work that well but this High-tek is interesting to me
For me.... I like to run the mix a little lean.. more acetone. I have found that a convection oven is best using a oven thermometer ... Ok.. longer is better.. run the oven for 15 minutes after the thermometer reaches 400 degrees. dump the whole thing in water. dry. then give it a second coat. run for at least 15 minutes at 400 and then dump in water. Two things.. heating that long will make all the bullets darker. Using a lean mix may make the bullets coating a tad spotty that .... hurts nothing.
I agree !! I found the batch on the top rack was always my best batch as it was closer to the heat element. Now instead of 375-400 for 10 minutes I do 13 for the first batch then 12 minutes for each batch after that since its heated up and it works great and yes lean is better . Always better to do 2 or 3 think coats then 1 or 2 thick ones . I have never had a failure with this process . As long as people follow the directions for the most part they always work out great . I would NEVER EVER do the harbor freight process . What a mess and what a waste of product and time and I believe that thick shell creates an inferior product (the harbor freight product)
ocean374 Yeah, I like both. I like the overall coating of the hitek better, but PC was easier to master and you have a much wider variety of colors if that matters to you. I know some people like to color code loads, so have more choices helps in those cases.
Hello Cranky I have a question what type of container are you using with your acetone and powder I understand acetone will melt plastic ?? Thank you sir
The square plastic bottles that Planters Peanuts come in (2lb size) work great for me. I can process up to 7 pounds of 9mm per batch in it, I close the lid on it immediately after pouring in the Hi-Tek and swirl for 30 seconds, then open it and swirl for another 10 then dump on wax paper, it's given me nice even coatings since the square sides help agitate and disperse the coating. But anything made of PET plastic will work, can actually store acetone in them, it has no effect on the plastic.
Most of the time I use clip on wheel weights with a bit of tin tossed in and water quench when casting. I only started casting softer alloys for 45 Colt recently, but haven’t tried Hi-Tek on them yet, just PC.
@@CrankyCleatus do youhave a video or could you point me in the direction of what equipment I would need? I've been thinking about doing this. I already went ahead and ordered a press.
I haven't made any videos on casting. But you can go over to TheReloadersNetwork.com and find many videos on casting, reloading, shooting, & hunting videos. UA-cam has deleted a lot of peoples casting videos, so TheReloadersNetwork.com is great place to find gun related content.
For small batches like 10-15lb of bullets, yeah PC is faster. But I can do 30-40lb faster using Hi-Tek than I can using PC. I still do both PC and Hi-Tek...maybe one day I’ll decide to stick with just one.
Very well shown ! Great video !
Cranky, I enjoyed your presentation and insight to detail. Our process is very similar. There are now several coatings available and more will be developed. The best part is that it can be done by individuals. Thank you for the video.
Dan Dix
Thanks !!! There was one change I made from your video.
2nd coat/size then final coat. 👍🏼
I just completed about 15 pounds of 175 grainers for my Glock 20. I used a teaspoon per five pounds and cooked them at 400 degrees for 25 minutes starting with a cold oven. Three coats. They passed the smash test and the coating did not come off during the acetone rub test. I like this better than powder coating ….
Thanks for the info.
Very nice job Cranky. I love the attention to detail. Turned out really nice. Echo
Cleatus . I was lucky enough to have been introduced to the hy-tek powder coating process from the beginning . I would never ever ever use another process. There is absolutely no waste what so ever . It is very clean if you wear gloves and just a little tip . I use canned air to speed up the shake process of getting the acetone to evaporate and it works GREAT !!! No more shaking for 1 to 3 minutes till evaporating. Just a blast or 2 of air and it is gone and then as you shake it clumps up and as we all know thats what you are looking for to tell you the acetone is gone and only powder left on bullet . Give it a try . I think you will be pleasantly surprised at the speed involved and shaking a heavy bucket is labor intensive after a few batches so this REALLY helps speed up the process :-)
Thanks for showing people this process as it works THE BEST PERIOD !!! Complete uniform coverage each and every time unlike the harbor freight process . I get my powder from Missouri Bullet company they have great prices and send right to your door . Thanks again Buddy . Ron
I like it ,you make the process look neater than other people have 👍👍👏👏🇺🇸🤓
Loved the video great process. Thanks for taking the time to make this video and share your skills with all of us.
Yes definitely Informative & well presented.
Cranky you did good man love the video / info subed
Very informative...thanks Cranky
The method behind the madness , great video my friend thx for sharing
Excellent job sir. Great video, very informative.
Thanks for sharing this. Was wondering about the difference between it and powder coating. Everyone seems to make out that the Hi-tec is a pain and really messy, but it looks like anything else. The more prep you do before, the easier it is.
Mike Treen I found it had a bigger learning curve. Basically I got good PC results right away doing the Elvis shake & bake. It took me 4 tries to get my HT process worked out. I also watch the oven temp more religiously than I do with PC. With PC I usually set the timer and walk away and maybe check it once while it’s baking. HT I’ll check every 2-3 minutes because you can over cook them pretty easily.
@@CrankyCleatus I have been a religious user of plain straight liquid Alox since I started reloading in early 1993.
However, the 45-45-10 and THIS looks to have merit. I would try both right away if I wasn't buried so deep in credit card debt.
Still... I would like some recommendations from you on types of acetone resistant utility containers ect that you use.
Did you find your electric oven at a "used store"?
Any recommendations at this point would be beneficial for me IF I ever get my credit card debt down,(I'm on SSDI, but "working on it".)
It appears that you must have a airtight shaker container for unused product to keep the acetone from evaporating. What kind of metal did you make your drying screen out of ?🤔
"Expiring minds want to know".🤔
The more info you give, the better chance one will have of a "first time go".
👍😉.
In the meantime, I will subscribe...👀
Cleatus. Nice presentation, I like your ability to show how, without sounding like we are in school and have to take notes. Thanks for sharing with us, Btw, high tech coating is a process that many casters never look in to, I believe that it provides a uniform coating that is even all the way around. May have an edge on accuracy over powder coat? Maybe. I believe that distance tells the story. That is my assumption. as you know, I'm a Tridshonal sizer lubricator guy, However, I'm glad to see that there are methods for guys to use that don't involve a huge investment to get quality accurate projectiles. Good video. Dave
Thor's Axe Thank you. I’ve never tried traditional lubes yet. I’ve never tested PC coating vs HT to see if you get more velocity with one or the other. I suspect HT will get slightly higher speeds since the coating seems slicker. I know I don’t have to change load data to go from one to the other, so any differences can’t be much. My 300blk load I developed using PC shoots just as well with HT bullets. 😁
.300 blackout is one of those cartridges where casting just makes a lot of sense from what I see on youtube. .30cal bullets, even the 147gr FMJBT are $$$$. and overall accuracy for the range of the .300 does not justify as an edge with the FMJ bullets. (In My Opinion) from what I see. The .300 Blackout seems to be the little Darling down at the shin-dig that everyone likes to dance with, light recoil and ballistic foot pounds is a big plus and all in an AR package.
It's a fun cartridge. If/when I move out of NJ I'd like to experiment more with it suppressed and in an AR. Right now I'm just shooting it out of a Ruger American Ranch. I shot a 1" group at 100 yards with a 145g cast bullet at 2077fps, using LC 223 brass I converted. It's not a long range gun, but it's great for banging steel at the range with my son. :)
I may look into this. I have been fighting the powder coating. Great video explaining the process.
I bought some .40 match projectiles from a local company that uses the Hi-Tek coating.
The coolest thing I have noticed is that it actually helps remove copper fouling from the barrel.
If I've been shooting jacketed ammo for awhile, I can load a couple mags of the Hi-Tek stuff & the majority of the fouling is out of the barrel.
22222222222332222222222222r RRB rgbjv
You forgot to stand them on their bases! Hahaha, just kidding man. This looks like a really solid option for bullet coating. I wouldn't mind giving it a try. Great video, very informative! 👍🇺🇸
TinMan Yeah no standing up necessary 😂👍. Harder to master than PC, but I think the final coating is nicer.👍
Thanks for the close ups. I was hoping to get true solid color but I can see that even after 3 coats you can still see small specks of what appears bare lead.
Gonna disagree...bright LED lights in the garage show glare...absolutely no lead showing even after 2 coats, let alone 3. Not trying to sell anyone on hi-tek. I still PC too, especially rifle ammo...but can’t beat hi-tek for bulk pistol ammo.
@@CrankyCleatus I don't know but it does look that way at 12:40 and it's not lights glare, I can see the difference. I am still going to order and try Hi-Tek, I powder coat now but I want mark free and 100% coverage.
@@DimaProk still gonna disagree..i have LEDs hanging over my bench...after 3 coats there is zero lead showing, just camera catching glare. Like I said, I use both hi-tek, and PC...like them both...hi-tek has a little more learning curve than PC, so don’t quit too easy, most fail on 1st attempt. I know I did.
@@CrankyCleatus ok, I am hoping that I am wrong for my sake :)
I wonder if you could do this with powder coat paints? You know mix them to a thin consistency like this hi-tek coating except with powder coat, just enough to apply a nice thin layer and just recoat 2-3 times to get a smoother finish.
I will be experimenting with this!
Looks good. have you checked your barrels for leading?
Do you try the acetone test wiping the bullet. Had a batch that gave a bit of coating residue after I wiped it with acetone. Bullet seems hard and not sticky at all and passed the hammer test. I feel there good but wonder if you have any thought on this👍good video man
I have but usually just do the hammer test now. Early on, I over cooked a couple batches and they failed both tests. Never had issues shooting anything that passed the hammer test so I’m comfortable with just doing the one test.👍 I’d shoot them if I was you 😁.
Great informative video. I can see this being an advantage Over powder coat because of thickness in guns with tight chambers like my win 94. 👍🏻
Georgiaboy44 Curious to see how they shoot in your 94. Don't you have more snakes you could test it out on. 🐍🔫😂 I need to get back to load development myself, maybe that 8208-XBR will be the ticket. 👍
Interesting process. Great how to video Brother. TFS
Do not wear your prescription glasses when shaking or spraying solution... if you get any on em? they are ruined.
Great video Cleatus!
Great video , but Tinman won't do it as well . LOL
I've been buying my hi tek coated bullets from GallantBullets but I would love to try this myself. I blame Scotsman! 😂😂😂
Great job describing all of the work and steps into doing this I wish I had the room
Thanks man that helped a bunch.
Good video, do you have to presoak the bullets with acetone first and if so for how long? New to bullet coating
If they are freshly cast and haven't been handled a lot than you can probably skip it. I usually do it anyway...not long, just a 10 or 15 minute soak. I have a couple bullets that I'll lube and resize before I coat...and those I give a good long overnight soak to get all the lube off before coating.
@@CrankyCleatus followed your directions and when I attempted to size, I had to use a lot of effort to seat the bullets into my lee sizing die. The sizing step shaved and exposed some of the coating and the outer edges from the base of my bullets come out rough also exposing parts of lead. Any tips on how to fix this or know what I'm doing wrong?
@@bryansandoval3498 Sounds like a failed coating? Did you do a hammer 🔨 test and smash one of your bullets? It shouldn’t flake off. When done right, the hi-tek finish should have sleek feel and act as a lube when sizing. Haven’t seen your issue unless the bullets where over cooked and coating became dry and flaky.
All those you knows we should add a counter to this video 😂
You know…don’t think so 😂👍
I don't get why you are using a .358 sizer for 9mm bullets...🤔
It SHOULD be .356 (Hypothetically).
I’m definitely going to try this
Nice Chicowize sent me👍🇺🇸
What Hiteck did you use, there seems to be a dozen different makers on the web. Would like to get the correct one the first time. Thank You
hi-performancebulletcoatings.com
CrankyCleatus thank you!
Excellent video, what is the advantage of hi-tek coating over powder coating?
bill johnson I think the coating is more even and consistent. It doesn’t add the thickness that PC does either, so if you have a tight chamber the thickness of PC can impact seating depth. The bullets don’t stick when baking and even though it takes multiple coats, I feel like I can do larger batches of HT than PC. Bake time is 8-12 minutes instead of 20. I like both and will continue to use both for now.
CrankyCleatus thank you
I never tried that kind of coating on a bullet how fast can you shoot it before it starts leading? What’s the difference between that and regular lubricated bullets?
Lever guns 50-110 WCF I've never shot traditionally lubed bullets, so I can't compare the two. I have heard people who shot both say that PC or HT are less smoky. Leading is mostly caused by gas cutting due to undersized bullets. I've never had any leading using PC or HT. I shoot 145g plain base cast bullet 2077fps in 300BLK with no issues. The 124g bullet in this video at 2150fps in 357 without leading. 165g gas checked cast bullet at 2285fps in 30-30, without leading. All 3 of my pistols 380, 9mm, & 40 using PC & HT without leading. I don't cast for 223 yet, since bulk 55gr bullets are so cheap, I just haven't bothered.
CrankyCleatus Thanks for answering my questions, A hard cast bullet is only good for about 2200 FPS with traditional lubrication and gas checks
I have wrap them with teflon tape around them to get a little bit more speed out of them, keep up the good work thanks for sharing
Great video, but all the umm’s are a bit much. Counted 124 umms total
Wow, Dude you have too much time on our hands, umm.
African Safari Films you are trolling? SMH
That’s really cool now we’re do you get the hi-tek powder from I would like to give it a try now I have tried the powder coat with acetone and they didn’t work that well but this High-tek is interesting to me
I never tried the acetone mixed with PC before, but I've heard of people doing it...not sure I've heard anyone say they were successful at doing it :)
For me.... I like to run the mix a little lean.. more acetone. I have found that a convection oven is best using a oven thermometer ... Ok.. longer is better.. run the oven for 15 minutes after the thermometer reaches 400 degrees. dump the whole thing in water. dry. then give it a second coat. run for at least 15 minutes at 400 and then dump in water. Two things.. heating that long will make all the bullets darker. Using a lean mix may make the bullets coating a tad spotty that .... hurts nothing.
I agree !! I found the batch on the top rack was always my best batch as it was closer to the heat element. Now instead of 375-400 for 10 minutes I do 13 for the first batch then 12 minutes for each batch after that since its heated up and it works great and yes lean is better . Always better to do 2 or 3 think coats then 1 or 2 thick ones . I have never had a failure with this process . As long as people follow the directions for the most part they always work out great . I would NEVER EVER do the harbor freight process . What a mess and what a waste of product and time and I believe that thick shell creates an inferior product (the harbor freight product)
Great video I like it 👍👍 do you like both methods powder coating and hi-tek and which one do you prefer
ocean374 Yeah, I like both. I like the overall coating of the hitek better, but PC was easier to master and you have a much wider variety of colors if that matters to you. I know some people like to color code loads, so have more choices helps in those cases.
I'm back here again for the trolls. 🤣
Why would you add a coat after sizing?
Hello Cranky I have a question what type of container are you using with your acetone and powder I understand acetone will melt plastic ?? Thank you sir
Check slack Willie, sent photo and details on what I use.
The square plastic bottles that Planters Peanuts come in (2lb size) work great for me. I can process up to 7 pounds of 9mm per batch in it, I close the lid on it immediately after pouring in the Hi-Tek and swirl for 30 seconds, then open it and swirl for another 10 then dump on wax paper, it's given me nice even coatings since the square sides help agitate and disperse the coating. But anything made of PET plastic will work, can actually store acetone in them, it has no effect on the plastic.
What tool you are using on 11:25 ? it's something to calibrate bullets.
Lee sizing die. Old style…they have newer designs now. 👍
@@CrankyCleatus Thanks!
What’s your favorite color?
I like the black and black cherry the best. Not a big fan of the gold.
CrankyCleatus I figured you know
what lead alloy where you using? asking cause I seem to have issues with hitek when the alloy is a tad bit soft, but not have that issue with PC
Most of the time I use clip on wheel weights with a bit of tin tossed in and water quench when casting. I only started casting softer alloys for 45 Colt recently, but haven’t tried Hi-Tek on them yet, just PC.
What sizing setup you running?
I size using either Lee sizing dies or NOE sizing dies on a single stage press.
Way too long a video, too much repetition, but what really got me is the umh, umh, umh, umh. Turned me right of.
Snoozy, you have every right to say whatever you want. However, until you make your own videos, you have no reason. It just makes you a troll.
Do you cast your own lead?
Yes, I cast my own lead bullets.
@@CrankyCleatus do youhave a video or could you point me in the direction of what equipment I would need? I've been thinking about doing this. I already went ahead and ordered a press.
I haven't made any videos on casting. But you can go over to TheReloadersNetwork.com and find many videos on casting, reloading, shooting, & hunting videos. UA-cam has deleted a lot of peoples casting videos, so TheReloadersNetwork.com is great place to find gun related content.
Powder coating is much easier and cheaper quicker
For small batches like 10-15lb of bullets, yeah PC is faster. But I can do 30-40lb faster using Hi-Tek than I can using PC. I still do both PC and Hi-Tek...maybe one day I’ll decide to stick with just one.
I like PCing myself.🤣😂
This is what happens when you quit making vids. People post your old ones🤣
🤦🏻♂️
Too many "ya know"s ! Ya know !
You know right
You sure say "um" a lot.
Too many "You know..."'s
You know...suck it 🙈
🤣🤣🤣
@@TinManReloading yea suck it 😂🤣