This man has the experience, common sense and delivery that we are so sorely missing in every aspect of society. Plain speech with wisdom. He cuts to the chase with the unvarnished truth.
He’s literally a know nothing Fudd. Mineral oil is not proper lubricant for high heat or high pressure applications. It’s gets goopy and gathers fouling. Using mineral oil on a self loading rifle is about as intelligent as using Elmers Glue.
Time to go back and crawl under a rock. This is 2025. Teach yourself what's right and what's not so much, in the 22nd century. This isn't 1968 anymore. Stop being a CAVE MAN!!
This gentleman has nothing to sell, but common sense and wisdom! In Nam we knew who over-oiled their weapon. Dirt and grit all over the thing. The old KISS rule applies here: “Keep it simple stupid!”
I love the Vietnam veterans. I am a veteran myself, enlisted in 2005. My dad was a Vietnam veteran, served 1968 to 1969. The Vietnam veterans are tough as hell.
I love my Ballistol. I'm from Germany, of course. Used other machinery oil on my Mosin, and the inner bore started rusting. Since Ballistol no problems ever. But I totally agree with the rest. As much oil as needed, as less oil as possible. Hope this was correct English.
Ballistol always makes me reflex cough. I'm not a fan of the smell. I use RemOil as my light oil and Hoppe's as my std solvent. I'm not a fan of CLPs (cleaning, lubricating products). In my experience, they don't do both well enough.
A little bit of Ballistol goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. It will not hurt wood, rubber, or synthetic grips and stocks. I use it, and I love the smell.😊
Sir you are spot on! I have a gun shop in Louisiana, home of humidity and salt mud in the marshes we hunt ducks and geese in. I have a good customer who dropped off an SP10 Remington semi auto 10 gauge. Well I love when they try to fix it with oil!!! I started the disassembly process and it was so full of oil I had to get newspaper and set the barrel, receiver, and stand up the butt stock on to absorb the oil coming out of the gun. Geez it was a lot. However none of that oil fixed the bad magazine follower or the disconnecter problem he had. First thought by some is if oil is good, more is better. I appreciate you, you look like my brother in laws dad and sound just like him, he passed away several years ago. I sent this video to my brother in law to listen to your voice, he loved it. Thank you for enlightening gun owners in their endeavors in the field and in the shop! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
I used to sit close as my dad cleaned my 22LR when I was a kid. Great smell and a wonderful time with my dad. He's gone now but the smell of Hoppes brings him back in some small way.
Relatable Sentement! Although, These Days And Age, With All The Chemicals Used In Manufacturing In Everything, Especially Our Homes, Work Environments, And Transportation! Such Is Litterally Killing Us Faster Than Anyother Time, Via Toxicity And Human Genetics, Breaking Down Our Systems Of Surviving And Thriving! Just Look At The Rise In The Medical Industries Profits, Patented Cancerz, Most Everyone Around Us, Has Some Sort Of Alergies, Conditions, Illness, Sickness, Disease, Etc! The Only Way To Stop Or At Least Reduce Mass Depopulation, Is To Attempt To Stop Buying, All The Toxic Environmentally Unsound Plastic Junk, We Can Live Much Longer, Without From: Aerosols, Spray Bottles, Sented Lotions, Candles, Cleaners, Sented Electrial Plug-Ins, Etc! Try The Oldschool Safer Things Like Baking Soda, Natural Soaps, Verified Safe & Natural Oils, Etc! More People Have Been Eliminated By Chemicals And Toxicology, Than By Guns, By Far! GOD Bless America, One Nation Under GOD, In GOD We Trust, Pa-Pow, Amen! 😎 🙉🙈🙊 🇺🇸
Like everyone else who's commented here, I really enjoy your videos. Your authenticity and integrity seem to be above reproach and you certainly have the education, training and experience to be considered an expert. I've tried Hoppes, the Kaiser's (😃), Clenzoil, CLP, G96 and Slip 2000 and repeatedly watched Project Farm's testing as well as others. While I've never had a bad experience with any of the oils I've tried, I simply haven't had the wealth or decades of experience you've had so after watching several of your videos on cleaning and lubricating firearms, I just ordered a small bottle of mineral spirits and another small bottle of mineral oil. I'm ready to try the GunBlue490 method!
After watching your early video from a few years ago about the proper cleaning and lubrication of firearms, I switched to your method and have never had any issues with my carry gun over the years since. The gun I carry every day and have for years is a Kimber TLE II 1911 in .45 acp. I have thousands of rounds through it and only clean it when I go to the range to shoot it. Because I carry this 1911 every day, I do wipe it down with a lightly oiled cotton flannel rag I keep in a Ziplock bag just to wipe off lint and run a dry patch through the barrel to remove any lint that gets in there. I do this once every couple weeks and have never had any issues with rust corrosion or malfunctions. Your commonsense approach to firearms is the most valuable on UA-cam. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I started using a small piece of close shorn sheepskin, the wool holds grease/lubricant really well but it doesn't tear like old cloth will, and the 'leather' side stays ungreasy. I think I've had the same piece for maybe 5 years now.
I had an issue with a Ruger .22 pistol jamming after a few rounds. Used this minimalist cleaning/lubrication method, problem solved! Merry Christmas sir!
I love the knowledge you share with us, straight and to the point and not selling us on the all latest marketing gimmicky gun cleaning products . Thank you so much
You couldn't be more accurate in your comments, sir. I have seen some men I'd served with lubricate the bore of the barrels after cleaning, thinking it would enhance the longevity of said bore. I would try educating them about the dangers of that sort of practice, but most would continue doing what they were already doing. I never witnessed a catastrophic failure, but did see many malfunctions with their particular rifles. Great information. Thank you!
i watched one of your video's back in the day where you suggested mineral spirits for cleaning, one of the best suggestions ever. The best thing I like is that it doesn't remove the copper that has burnished into the bore, I actually saw my groups shrink a measurable amount by leaving the pits and scratches filled on my Savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor and my cold bore shots being on target with my Tikka T3x in 270. As for the lubing I use a little Ballistol or CLP on a rag including the firing pin and my rifles feel and shoot better than ever. The only time I clean back to steel is once my accuracy seems to drop off, I use JB Bore Paste to take it back to bare steel and start over, it's only been once in the last 10 years with my 12FV and in the meantime the mineral spirits do a fantastic job.
Totally agree. Going back to raw steel is also very bad in car engines, steamers, or similar is usually a very bad idea. The carbonization alone helps to lubricate in "some" areas. Obviously if it is blocking actions it is bad, but for cars, some carbon is a good thing.
Another quality video! I’ve been watching you for many years now and I must say, one of my favorite firearms related UA-camr. I can spend hours watching and rewatching the way you explain things. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas from the Big Island of Hawaii. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
WISH I heard this 50 years ago! 👍 We cleaned our M16a1 rifles in the shower with dish soap (in garrison) and lightly oiled. Then turned into the unit ammorer for inspection and storage. They ALWAYS passed! I just ordered a tube of Lubriplate 130-aa. I am sharing this on Gab. :)
When I was a teen, my first job was as a bicycle shop guy, learning the skills. A key lesson, then and now, was that "too much oil is worse than not enough." While perhaps not exactly true, the point was and is that too much oil gathers dirt, and the oily dirt becomes crud. A little bit of oil will go a long way.
Disassembling a rear hub and cleaning the grub out of the plastic spacers in a cassette or seeing how much dirt will wear away axle threading when it attaches to oil is an eye opener in your early 20s, lol. It's good to see things like that firsthand, and early on in life👍🏻.
After your older videos on cleaning, I changed to mineral spirits and mineral oil, and got a quart (all I could find) of LSA for my semi-autos. On rare, high friction areas I'll use a miniscule dab of Mobile 1 synthetic grease. Now the only 'gun' product I have is a little Hoppes #9. Reminds me of good times with my Father. Stay well Sir...and a Merry Christmas to you and Family.
Amen brother, Merry Christmas! In the pharmacy brands of mineral oil, they put an expiration date on the bottle, mineral oil does not go rancid. Mineral oil is the same base product as butcher block or wooden cutting board oil. Great common sense pro tips, but I do like the smell of Hoppe's in the morning...
Thank you for sharing wisdom. It can be in short supply amid the latest marketing. While by no means everything new is bad, as you so ably demonstrate, a message that everything that went before can't be as good or better is only half the story (corrosive propellant and boiling soap possibly excepted). I always enjoy your channel. 62, shooting for 50 years in Britain, and still learning something new or rediscovering lost truth. Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year as we say on our side of the Pond.
‘60-‘64 AFSC 462xx: M61, M39, other 20mm and .50s, we used hot water/soap, hot oil tanks, and cloth almost exactly as you describe. The weapons were wiped down & bore wiped just as you discuss. They went bang most every time except for rare failure usually caused in the electric firing sequence. Most were electrically run bolt, firing pin, and primers with high cyclic rates & hot running barrels. Headspace & wear specs measuring was important but the gun cleaning was what 😅kept ‘em running. Gun Plumber & Gun Cleaner …one and the same. We used Stoddard solvent & rarely any other chemicals ‘cept the MilSpec (high altitude low temps) oil. Bomber gun barrels, sticking outa the tails of B-47s, having had hot baths of soap\𝐇₂𝐎’ & oil, only needed a soft cloth rubdown, and like the proverbial postman “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.”
I'm so glad to see your appreciation for the Mini platform, they're really underrated as long as the intention of the platform is put into its usage. Also lubriplate 130aa is what I've used for years, it's a great low/high temp grease.
I must agree the Kaiser’s oil is extremely expensive, however it does not hurt wood or rubber or synthetic grips and stocks. A little bit goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. Thank you for your time and work in making these videos. They are very informative, and I do learn a lot from you.
My favorite lesson from him is about using copper jackets and not to be worried about cleaning out the copper as much as I first presumed. This type of knowledge and experience is essential.
Good information. I remember in basic training when in classes to strip and clean the M16 there was a guy next to me who was using lots of oil on the gun. The instructor came by to inspect the guns and chewed the kid out. He said "You've got enough oil on that for five rifles!".
Thank You so much, and Merry Christmas! Great vids. I"m former Army Ranger 2/75. You've got the best vids and advice out there ... I'm always learning. Best to you and your family!
Looking at the walls behind you, and wondering. I bet there is a funny story about a husband, and a wife, and the interior decorating. Your gun advise is always sensible and practical, thanks for your time.
This is my favorite gun channel. I look forward to each new posting. Over the years, I've benefited greatly from your seasoned and practical advice on firearms. I also enjoy and benefit from your more spiritual insights. Keep up the good work. and a very Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Haha: I always get laughed at for saying this, so now it's your turn 😁 As a mechanic, I always get a kick out of people waxing poetic about their favorite snake oil. Guns are a pretty simple machine - like anything else, you look for wear and lubricate those areas.
In more than 50 years of shooting, I have seen loaded pistols and revolvers practically drowning in oil. The usual result is dud cartridges if they have been in the gun for a long time. Some European ammunition has primer and bullet sealing, but don't count on it. I still have a lot of PMP .303 Mk.7 ball with corrosive chlorate primers and an aqueous solution of Young's .303 neutralises the salts. This is very scarce now, so hot water funneled down the bore works, followed by thorough drying and regular cleaning. For that, I mix up a batch of Ed's Red (paraffin, mineral turpentine, ATF and acetone), at minimal cost. A blessed Christmas and a happy shooting New Year!
Been doing flannel/mineral oil ever since your previous video on this subject. Works exaxtly as you state. Even got a few OLD handguns wrapped in it inside those cheap WallyWorld plastic cases. Recently looked at one that's been stowed away for 3-4+ years. Same as day it was tucked away. Thanks for the solid advice and saving me money.
Thank you for this straight forward advise. We were issued M16s in the 80's that had thousands and thousands of rounds fired through them, so the tolerances were fairly loose. We always kept them and ran them pretty dry. In the event that we were firing more than a couple hundred rounds, we'd add some lube to the bolt/carrier interface areas and that was pretty much it. There were hardly any issues. Now if you have a new gas operated rifle then I would lube slightly during the break in period for sure. During heavy use, there are cases of baked on carbon around the bolt (where it fits near the gas tube of AR rifles) and piston areas (of AK and SKS variants) that needs a bit more than a casual wipe (IMO). I like CLP (my military experience stays with me).
Great information...I use Green Clean diluted 5:1. Same principle super cheap and long lasting. Once my cleaning kit lube is gone I'll jump to the mineral oil. My handguns per the manual recommend 6 drops of oil period.
Ya know this is SOOO refreshing. This guy is COMPLETELY on top of the simple facts!!!! Ive been doing this for a LONG time. IF I sell a gun people say "wow it looks new" Ummmm nuff said!!
Solid advice. The harshest solvent i ever use these days is a tank of good old boiling dihydrogen monoxide. Thatll strip out corrosive salts, black powder residue, grease, grime, dirt and even convert rust back into bluing. I dont however agree that guns DON'T need lubrication. They do. They are mechanical devices with metal on metal contact points. They just need far less than most people think. Drops, not drizzles and only on wear points.
@@eb1684 I got that from Mark Novak. When I say I clean things and bathe in Dihydrogen monoxide I get really weird looks and LMAO for a while until I inform them that it's water. LOL
When I was a kid my Dad gave me a patch from a flannel shirt with a little ATF on it to wipe down my .22. I’ve used what ever was left over in the garage too. A little wheel bearing grease goes a long way. I still like hoppes for copper fouling. ✌️
I put Ballistol on almost everything! I use it sparingly applied to patch cloth so a little 4oz jug has lasted me years! Plus I like its scent. Still use Mineral Oil for just about everything else.
Years ago you got me hooked on minimizing lube and using mineral oil, great advice. Gotta say, after a busy range day it’s not so much like wiping a greasy wrench off as it is cleaning out the exhaust pipes on a Kenworth.
As someone who grew up around guns but was still a little green with rifles, unfortunately my grandfather passed before I learned more, I was lubricating my weapons maybe a little too much. Not to the point of damage or blockage, but if a rag is all that's needed, I'm glad to learn and adjust.
I have started using Mineral oil ever since I saw your first video on it. Made so much since. I keep two cloth rags coated with it in a Ziploc bag at my bench. Thank so much for the great advice.
Worked for a large gun range, I worked for a large training company, I have burned out and replaced 7 AR15 barrels, one .223AI precision barrel, broken every part in a Glock except for the barrel itself and the tabs the slide rides on, reloaded 10,000 rounds latest year alone. I have never seen a gun stop running or get damaged for too much lubrication.
ARs and Glocks may run. How does more dirt migrate behind the extractor, the firing pin channel? How does more dirt accumulate in the trigger group?The manufacturer is wrong, the trained armorers are wrong, Glock telling people where to lubricate for decades...how could they know more? A-mazing.
@@onpsxmember Have you ever considered my good sir that maybe when freakish things happen too a large company, maybe the time a bad part slipped through due too a lazy employee for instance or maybe the time Mr Elmer Fudd didn’t check headspace before firing his proud new Ruger MK77 and it blew up in his face.. then maybe the large company would want too blame it on someone else? Just a thought. Because a properly built firearm can fire under water. I have done it. A little oil in the breech shouldn’t harm anything.
THANKYOU!! I realize that over lubrication of my firearms could cause major personal injuries. So now I will use much less lubricant by just wiping down with a lightly oiled flannel cloth. Mineral oil is far less expensive than special gun oils. So thank you, have a Merry Christmas and a Health, happy New year.
Great info. I was sitting in on a NY state concealed carry course, and the instructors told the 8 students in attendance to spray their pistols with WD-40 after every time they handled the firearm. And when they took them out, just take a cloth to wipe them off, put the ammo in and carry it. I was amazed, and both instructors made the same suggestion several times throughout the 2-day training course.
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and please have a safe and enjoyable New Year's celebration. Years ago I started using mineral spirits and oil. For nostalgia and because I, too, like the smell I keep a small bottle of Hoppes open when I clean my firearms. At my age there is little harm that the chemical odor will add to my condition and it brings back fond memories of buddies and family sitting around sharing our love of firearms. God bless!
I have been using an engine treatment for the last 20 years. Duralube, like Slick 50. When I get powder residue, it's just that. Powdery. It does not seem to sludge up.
Issues with other products is lack of rust inhibitors, excessive lower-temp burnoff or running oil. Solvents that will eat at rust based finishes, like bluing. Also even solvents like Hoppes that is mildly corrosive and needs to be fully removed when done. If not an appropriate engineer who knows the differences... I'd stick to proven firearms products. This is mostly the advice gunsmiths stick to on oils at least, so the cheapest one on hand is the go to. This is often Break Free CLP, because it's made in such quantities for the military that's it's far cheaper for its performance even for civilians. It's not just where burnt powder collects that's the place to worry about, but the oil from other areas that got hotter having all the oil running out or evaporating off action parts.
OIL on a gun will flow down into the wood stocks over time when stored upright. Then it soaks into the wood and turns it black and rotten. Sometimes you see it in very old guns but still excess oil can be bad news setting around. I use some Lubriplate I got for free on my Garand. I think USGI specified 130A and the 130AA is a bit thinner grease but it works. I got a beautiful walnut stock I would have liked over the one I have, on my M1 carbine, but I found it had turned all black behind the recoil lug and deteriorated the wood from oil.
Another great and informative video! Thanks for everything you do, your video releases are always a high point of my day! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
WD-40 to clean. 3-in-1 oil for lubrication. (For metal on metal surfaces.) Mineral Oil for the wood. That's been my go to for many a decades and has worked great up to this point. Thanks for the share!!
I was taught by my father, who was a Korean war Air Force small arms instructor, to clean firearms with Ivory Soap in hot water. You are the only other person I've ever heard saying the same thing! Good info, great video.
Some of the mainstream oils, Hoppes and the like, will react with the polymers in guns of recent manufacture as well. I do like the Kaiser's goop for leather.
Great to see you back with more content. Much appreciated. I’d love to hear you elaborate about the 22 hornet, I believe you could shed much light on such a classic cartridge. Thank you again.
I agree 100% on not over lubricating firearms, I see it often as well and if one says something, people find it offensive. Saw one guy spraying lube directly into the receiver chamber area. Have no idea why, there's nothing to lubricate there. Lubricating because it was jamming. jamming because he over lubricated it and the carbon build up is hampering it.
Always a good start to the morning when you see a new video from gunblue! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge, you never disappoint. Merry Christmas from your neighbors in Maine.
I have found in over 40 years of shooting and cleaning firearms, Ballistol is the best all around cleaner, lubricant and preserver by far. It too can be watered down to make "moose milk". I worked for a stainless steel sink manufacturer and we used Ballistol watered down to make "moose milk" as a weld grinding lubricant. It works wonder on wood and leather. The best hands down.
At 5:52, that's what he is discussing, basically saying don't buy Ballistol. I use it for black powder arms. I don't find it any more effective on smokeless residues than Hoppes. Other people report different results. As GunBlue says, I mostly use mineral spirits.
@@wdtaut5650 It is nothing out of the ordinary. It may be healthier but it doesn't do anything better. It is water soluble. So a coat on the gun will be less protective as others when it is humid or raining. They know that and have other variants for storage. The aggressive advertising is annoying. It may be interesting if on has to fly with liquids based on certain rules not being restricted in some places. It all has to work with the usage and environment.
With my ARs I clean the bore with Hoppes on a bronze brush about a dozen strokes and let it sit for 20-30 minutes, followed by wet patches of Ballistol until no black patches pass through and a few dry patches. The BCG I clean in an aqueous ultrasonic cleaner, though a brush and Hoppes also works well, it is then lightly lubed internally and on the receiver contact points with 0w20 synthetic motor oil left over from my oil changes; I buy 5 qt jugs of Valvoline 0w20 and my vehicle holds 4.8 qt, so I always have a few ounces left after each oil change. I wipe the exterior down with Ballistol on a blue paper 'shop rag'.
Can't recommend you oil choice at all... but one thing I can suggest, if you've never heard of 'de-gassing' your ultrasonic cleaners solution before using it for parts, you should look it up. It works!
For ones you dont use often there are also those sleeves that go over them in the safe. Like an oiled wool sock. I have one but I forget what they are called.
Thanks, for this...perfect messaging - I use one product - Ballistol - not expensive, non-toxic and it works great. Also love the idea of having a oil cloth, I use a silicone gun cloth, but does the same thing. Thanks for the info on Lubriplate, I have heard about that in the past.
Problem with mineral oil is it will not likely prevent rust and you will need to wipe down gun every month even if you do not use it. I use Renaissance wax to prevent rust and also preserves wood for long term storage.
I use Renaissance Wax on places I won't get to often, like on the frame of revolvers that the stocks cover. Or on portions of bolt action rifles hidden by the stock. External only, of course.
One of the best protection against water is lanolin . A wax that is extracted from lamb wool . Lanolin is what natural water proofer for lamb . Wiping down steel and stock with oily lanolin cloth will protect them from humidity and rust . Instead of lubriplate grease I have several tube of superlube .
@@sofjanmustopoh7232Rust was not a problem when natural grease and fat lubes wee used .Use T C bore butter on steel to prevent rust much better than petroleum based oils.
Correct on rust inhibitors of course. On Ren wax... I wouldn't use that on anything without wood unless it's going to sit a long time. Unless your storage conditions are really so bad you need wax. If so, I'd consider Ballistol or Boeing T9 Shield, as they spray or wipe on, and leave a thin wax when they dry. Ren wax is usually tacky and only applies where you wipe or scrub it on... I use Ren wax on old stuff, especially like old milsurps I won't shoot any time soon. Especially where wood and metal touch, and inside the stock in general.
I've used Stoddard's Solvent, Kerosene, Oil lantern fuel and lighter fluid-they all work equally well. Metal brushes are WAY too erosive and plastic brushes/patches should be the norm. I also shoot vintage guns/ammo and hot water does wonders for cleaning corrosive primers. Lubriplate is a fantastic soap based lithium grease and very sticky-I use it on all of my semiautos. Most jacketing will come out with judicious use of Sweets 7.62, but one must be careful. My dollars worth-John in Texas
Just to throw this out, Paint thinner is ANY solvent that can thin paint or CLEAN brushes and other painting tools. It can be pure mineral spirits, mixed mineral spirits, or other stuff like turpentine, acetone, naphtha, toluene, and more. Paint thinner is usually less refined than mineral spirits and might have added chemicals like benzene to make it work better and smell nicer. Mineral spirits are mainly used to clean metal surfaces before painting or finishing them. They work great for removing grease and oil, which helps the paint stick better. However, don't leave them on as a coating because they'll evaporate and won't provide any protection. At 64, I've been hunting since I was 16 and have been around guns all my life. I had the fantastic opportunity to work with a gunsmith after school, then later for him part-time until his untimely passing. God Bless his soul. I completely agree that the #1 killer of cleaning guns is over-oiling them. The #2 killer of guns is neglect, by not wiping them down with a PROTECTIVE coating and under lubricating. Stainless steel rifles are already good at resisting corrosion and don't need to be oiled. If you're mostly worried about corrosion, the stainless steel alone should be enough. Wipe it down with something like Mineral Spirits, as GunBlue stated, and you're good to go. Bluing is a different beast. Bluing creates a delicate finish, usually only 1/10,000” thick, so it can scratch easily. Bluing is a process that darkens iron, steel, brass, and aluminum to a bluish-black color. It makes the metal look better, protects it from rust, and makes it non-stick. You are NOT protecting metal here. You are protecting the 1/10,000” thick coating layer. Mineral spirits are a great option to clean it, but it's prone to rust if left untreated. As a New Englander, I hate to spend money needlessly, but I have a large sum invested in my firearms. I'm not going to cut corners taking care of them. I want something specially formulated to protect the bluing coating. NOT just the metal. Now, what product to use is the debate of the ages. Like Blue, being old school, Im drawn to Hobbes. I use the traditional for cleaning and coating, then their lubricant SPARINGLY. I take special care that no fingerprints are left when I put them away.
glad your still making video's , Good videos . And I used to use gun oil on my semi auto But I found it would freeze up in cold weather here in Canada . Then I used a compressor oil that was laying around and WOW never ever froze the action again .
When I was a kid, daddy introduced me to his Auto 5. All he ever did was wipe it down with an old worn out t shirt that he sprayed with a shot of gun oil. Looks as good today as when he bought it in ‘63! 10-4 on the Lubriplate! Just a dab is all it takes. WD40 is a great crud cutter. Good for cleaning guns that have been immersed in water. A lot of people curse it, but it works!
My guy here used the word "apothecary" in a sentence. OLD SCHOOL! Of course, still the right school. I use Rem Oil, which is largely mineral oil with Teflon added
Earlier videos covering this topic made me realize I was in the over-lubrication bunch. Something I had been doing for years and never really thought about until it was brought up here.
Lubriplate…I haven’t hard that in many decades….I was a Marine Aviation Ordnanceman and that’s all we used on the 20mm MK4 gunpod for the F4 Phantom. Lubriplate was the only authorized grease for that gun. A bit of over kill on small arms though.
Your channel is amazing I always enjoy your knowledge on this subject it never gets old hearing it. I often re watch your older videos on the subject. You’re a great person and thank you for sharing your passion for our lord and savior Jesus!! Merry Christmas to you and your family and I hope you have a blessed new year ahead!
I agree completely with your method. I always use a rag with a drop of oil to wipe down my guns. I would like to hear your thoughts on shotgun bore cleaning for us clay shooters. I always hear that the plastic from the wad will build up in the barrel. However I rarely clean the bore of my shotgun and I shoot a lot of trap. I miss your cooking videos as well. It looks like some beer brewing equipment in the background. Would like to see a video of you brewing beer. I used to brew and still have the equipment. It might just get me to brew again.
I shoot a lot of trap, skeet & sporting clays and clean my shotgun, including the barrels, after every outing. Plastic fouling does accumulate. Don't be lazy. A clean and properly lubed firearm will last years and hold their value more than one that has been neglected.
Probably best way to clean a shotgun bore, and will come out looking well polished, is mixing your bore solvent (mineral spirits is fine) with JB bore cleaning compound on the patches. Push through by hand. A little goes a decent ways, and gives the best, probably quickest results. It doesn't have the grit to do any real, deep polishing, so won't hog out the bore at all.
The most important aspect of a gun cleaner or lubricant for me is the container it comes in. Is it easy to use without wasting it or making a mess? Is it easy to spill? Does it leak when I’m not using it? If I get a bottle of mineral oil, half the bottle will end up spilled all over my bench. Yes, I know this might imply some laziness on my part. Great video. I agree with everything.
Having lived in desert and wet environments, too much oil causes problems. My dad taught me to use graphite instead of oil as it will not accumulate dust and cause problems. Also, putting oil on barrels and other blued parts tended to hold water on the metal surface causing rust and pitting. Only put oil on parts that need it! P.S. My dad was a gunsmith, he knew what he was doing.
At 10:03 he picks up the manual, reads the large print "Warning", pauses, puts his glasses on, then continues to read the small print. *I felt that deep in my soul.*
I still use Hoppes #9 as I like the smell, and it brings back good memories. One thing he missed is we can use 0000 steel wool with the Hoppes to deal with any rust or gunk on the outside of the barrel. I then use a cotton cloth to remove any Hoppes. After, I like to use the Remington Oil wipes that look like baby wipes. These wipes help prevent over oiling. I also use a thin layer of synthetic grease on any parts that move and touch.
As a professional gunsmith, I have to find products available in quantity that are affordable and work well. It's also important that these products be as non-toxic as possible since I come into contact with them almost daily. Here's what I use in the shop: general cleaning/degreasing - Zep Orange Citrus degreaser, bore cleaner - Bore Tech Eliminator, lube grease - Lubriplate SFL-0, gun oil - Lubriplate FMO oil. I use grease for most general lubrication since it stays put and does not migrate. Stainless actions do need lubrication as stainless will gall on itself. AR platforms need to have visible lubrication on the BCG. There are some specialty products that work very well on things like hard carbon deposits found on muzzle devices and bolt carriers. For these I use my ultrasonic cleaner or for parts that cannot go in the ultrasonic cleaner, Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and a brush.
4:24 Mineral spirits/paint thinner is about as flammable as kerosene. I have put it in a kerosene lamp for fuel. Burns about the same. Don't be careless with paint thinner and fire.
This man has the experience, common sense and delivery that we are so sorely missing in every aspect of society. Plain speech with wisdom. He cuts to the chase with the unvarnished truth.
Very refreshing.
WELL SPOKEN!!! GOD Bless you! Yes, GunBlue is the Wise, Grand Fatherly type person.
we have chosen to listen to sociopaths instead of experts.
Amen to that.
He’s literally a know nothing Fudd.
Mineral oil is not proper lubricant for high heat or high pressure applications. It’s gets goopy and gathers fouling.
Using mineral oil on a self loading rifle is about as intelligent as using Elmers Glue.
This is refreshing! I get so tired of UA-cam channels promoting the latest marketing gimmick. Truth and common sense are rare these days. Thank you.
Really.... ever use Mineral Spirits? and Lacquer Thinner? Pfffft.....
Save yourself dude....
word
... most of them are "sponsored" gimmick salespersons and as long as you see thru the hype you're good to go
Time to go back and crawl under a rock. This is 2025. Teach yourself what's right and what's not so much, in the 22nd century. This isn't 1968 anymore. Stop being a CAVE MAN!!
Best gun channel on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing your lifetime of knowledge with us. Have a merry Christmas my friend.
This gentleman has nothing to sell, but common sense and wisdom!
In Nam we knew who over-oiled their weapon. Dirt and grit all over the thing.
The old KISS rule applies here: “Keep it simple stupid!”
I love the Vietnam veterans. I am a veteran myself, enlisted in 2005. My dad was a Vietnam veteran, served 1968 to 1969. The Vietnam veterans are tough as hell.
I cannot get enough of your content. Every kid needs a no bs gunblue type guy in his life.
I love my Ballistol. I'm from Germany, of course. Used other machinery oil on my Mosin, and the inner bore started rusting. Since Ballistol no problems ever. But I totally agree with the rest. As much oil as needed, as less oil as possible. Hope this was correct English.
Their barrel cleaning solvent "Robla Solo Mil " is also good. But you have to be careful on blued guns.
Ballistol always makes me reflex cough. I'm not a fan of the smell. I use RemOil as my light oil and Hoppe's as my std solvent. I'm not a fan of CLPs (cleaning, lubricating products). In my experience, they don't do both well enough.
@@cooper57m How different people are. I love the smell.
Ballistol is an incredible product, been using it for many years
A little bit of Ballistol goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. It will not hurt wood, rubber, or synthetic grips and stocks. I use it, and I love the smell.😊
Sir you are spot on!
I have a gun shop in Louisiana, home of humidity and salt mud in the marshes we hunt ducks and geese in. I have a good customer who dropped off an SP10 Remington semi auto 10 gauge. Well I love when they try to fix it with oil!!! I started the disassembly process and it was so full of oil I had to get newspaper and set the barrel, receiver, and stand up the butt stock on to absorb the oil coming out of the gun. Geez it was a lot. However none of that oil fixed the bad magazine follower or the disconnecter problem he had. First thought by some is if oil is good, more is better.
I appreciate you, you look like my brother in laws dad and sound just like him, he passed away several years ago. I sent this video to my brother in law to listen to your voice, he loved it.
Thank you for enlightening gun owners in their endeavors in the field and in the shop!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to you and your family.
Enjoyed reading your post. Merry Christmas 🎅
Your clear, honest and common sense communication skills are outstanding. You are a fantastic teacher!
I agree!
Love your videos! Right or wrong my favorite cleaner, lubricant, protective on wood and steel is Ballistol. Works on everything.
@dougrogers835 👍👊
But the Kaiser's Army used it!
Ballistol smells awful 😣
Ballistol is great stuff. Does stink though.
@@davek5027 it's not a cologne like Hoppes 9. But all these seem to do the job. Like GunBlue490 says, we're ultimately cleaning steel.
I guess I'll keep paying over the odds just for the smell of Hoppes! So much nostalgia, so many childhood associations, so much comforting ritual!
It’s the smell of being 12 years old. It takes me straight back to the 60’s every time.
I used to sit close as my dad cleaned my 22LR when I was a kid. Great smell and a wonderful time with my dad. He's gone now but the smell of Hoppes brings him back in some small way.
Don’t get hopped on your skin ……liver damage
Me, too… gun cleaning in the smell of hopped… goes together!
Relatable Sentement! Although, These Days And Age, With All The Chemicals Used In Manufacturing In Everything, Especially Our Homes, Work Environments, And Transportation! Such Is Litterally Killing Us Faster Than Anyother Time, Via Toxicity And Human Genetics, Breaking Down Our Systems Of Surviving And Thriving! Just Look At The Rise In The Medical Industries Profits, Patented Cancerz, Most Everyone Around Us, Has Some Sort Of Alergies, Conditions, Illness, Sickness, Disease, Etc! The Only Way To Stop Or At Least Reduce Mass Depopulation, Is To Attempt To Stop Buying, All The Toxic Environmentally Unsound Plastic Junk, We Can Live Much Longer, Without From: Aerosols, Spray Bottles, Sented Lotions, Candles, Cleaners, Sented Electrial Plug-Ins, Etc! Try The Oldschool Safer Things Like Baking Soda, Natural Soaps, Verified Safe & Natural Oils, Etc!
More People Have Been Eliminated By Chemicals And Toxicology, Than By Guns, By Far!
GOD Bless America,
One Nation Under GOD,
In GOD We Trust,
Pa-Pow, Amen!
😎 🙉🙈🙊 🇺🇸
Like everyone else who's commented here, I really enjoy your videos. Your authenticity and integrity seem to be above reproach and you certainly have the education, training and experience to be considered an expert. I've tried Hoppes, the Kaiser's (😃), Clenzoil, CLP, G96 and Slip 2000 and repeatedly watched Project Farm's testing as well as others. While I've never had a bad experience with any of the oils I've tried, I simply haven't had the wealth or decades of experience you've had so after watching several of your videos on cleaning and lubricating firearms, I just ordered a small bottle of mineral spirits and another small bottle of mineral oil. I'm ready to try the GunBlue490 method!
After watching your early video from a few years ago about the proper cleaning and lubrication of firearms, I switched to your method and have never had any issues with my carry gun over the years since. The gun I carry every day and have for years is a Kimber TLE II 1911 in .45 acp. I have thousands of rounds through it and only clean it when I go to the range to shoot it. Because I carry this 1911 every day, I do wipe it down with a lightly oiled cotton flannel rag I keep in a Ziplock bag just to wipe off lint and run a dry patch through the barrel to remove any lint that gets in there. I do this once every couple weeks and have never had any issues with rust corrosion or malfunctions. Your commonsense approach to firearms is the most valuable on UA-cam. Merry Christmas to you and your family.
I started using a small piece of close shorn sheepskin, the wool holds grease/lubricant really well but it doesn't tear like old cloth will, and the 'leather' side stays ungreasy. I think I've had the same piece for maybe 5 years now.
It was such a pleasure to have met you at the auto parts store . That made my Christmas. Thank you , May God Bless you and your family.
Thank you for your wisdom! I trust and love the lessons you pass down to the younger generations
I had an issue with a Ruger .22 pistol jamming after a few rounds. Used this minimalist cleaning/lubrication method, problem solved! Merry Christmas sir!
A fouled magazine can cause just as much of a problem as the gun itself. Clean and dry mags have helped my mark series rugers a ton
@@tracyhaynes5404 I had the same problem with a 10/22. Cleaning the buildup on the feed lips of the magazine took care of it. 👍
great to see a realistic and common sense approach to firearms instructions. Not catering to sponsors with dramatic showmanship.
I love the knowledge you share with us, straight and to the point and not selling us on the all latest marketing gimmicky gun cleaning products . Thank you so much
You couldn't be more accurate in your comments, sir. I have seen some men I'd served with lubricate the bore of the barrels after cleaning, thinking it would enhance the longevity of said bore. I would try educating them about the dangers of that sort of practice, but most would continue doing what they were already doing. I never witnessed a catastrophic failure, but did see many malfunctions with their particular rifles. Great information. Thank you!
Sir, Don't ever allow yourself to think that you are not doing great things for the World at Large.
Great information, as always!
The only problem with this video, is that not enough people will see it. 🙂
Great video.
who cares... their lose
i watched one of your video's back in the day where you suggested mineral spirits for cleaning, one of the best suggestions ever. The best thing I like is that it doesn't remove the copper that has burnished into the bore, I actually saw my groups shrink a measurable amount by leaving the pits and scratches filled on my Savage 12FV in 6.5 Creedmoor and my cold bore shots being on target with my Tikka T3x in 270. As for the lubing I use a little Ballistol or CLP on a rag including the firing pin and my rifles feel and shoot better than ever. The only time I clean back to steel is once my accuracy seems to drop off, I use JB Bore Paste to take it back to bare steel and start over, it's only been once in the last 10 years with my 12FV and in the meantime the mineral spirits do a fantastic job.
Totally agree. Going back to raw steel is also very bad in car engines, steamers, or similar is usually a very bad idea. The carbonization alone helps to lubricate in "some" areas. Obviously if it is blocking actions it is bad, but for cars, some carbon is a good thing.
Another quality video! I’ve been watching you for many years now and I must say, one of my favorite firearms related UA-camr. I can spend hours watching and rewatching the way you explain things. Thank you for sharing your wisdom. Wishing you and your family a very merry Christmas from the Big Island of Hawaii. 🤙🏽🤙🏽
WISH I heard this 50 years ago! 👍
We cleaned our M16a1 rifles in the shower with dish soap (in garrison) and lightly oiled. Then turned into the unit ammorer for inspection and storage. They ALWAYS passed!
I just ordered a tube of Lubriplate 130-aa.
I am sharing this on Gab. :)
When I was a teen, my first job was as a bicycle shop guy, learning the skills. A key lesson, then and now, was that "too much oil is worse than not enough." While perhaps not exactly true, the point was and is that too much oil gathers dirt, and the oily dirt becomes crud. A little bit of oil will go a long way.
Use electric contact cleaner does not collect dust.
Disassembling a rear hub and cleaning the grub out of the plastic spacers in a cassette or seeing how much dirt will wear away axle threading when it attaches to oil is an eye opener in your early 20s, lol. It's good to see things like that firsthand, and early on in life👍🏻.
@@RobertBonner-vz1bb It's also not oil, and ultra expensive for what you're using it for.
Thank you for the coaching and the knowledge you share. God bless you and your family, specially in this period when we celebrate our Savior's birth.
Long after you've gone home to be with the Lord you'll still be helping young men learn traditional values and skills. And I appreciate that.
After your older videos on cleaning, I changed to mineral spirits and mineral oil, and got a quart (all I could find) of LSA for my semi-autos. On rare, high friction areas I'll use a miniscule dab of Mobile 1 synthetic grease. Now the only 'gun' product I have is a little Hoppes #9. Reminds me of good times with my Father.
Stay well Sir...and a Merry Christmas to you and Family.
And the aroma of Hoppes!
☃️🎅🎄🇺🇸
Amen brother, Merry Christmas! In the pharmacy brands of mineral oil, they put an expiration date on the bottle, mineral oil does not go rancid. Mineral oil is the same base product as butcher block or wooden cutting board oil. Great common sense pro tips, but I do like the smell of Hoppe's in the morning...
Thank you for sharing wisdom. It can be in short supply amid the latest marketing. While by no means everything new is bad, as you so ably demonstrate, a message that everything that went before can't be as good or better is only half the story (corrosive propellant and boiling soap possibly excepted).
I always enjoy your channel. 62, shooting for 50 years in Britain, and still learning something new or rediscovering lost truth.
Have a very Merry Christmas and a Happy and Prosperous New Year as we say on our side of the Pond.
‘60-‘64 AFSC 462xx: M61, M39, other 20mm and .50s, we used hot water/soap, hot oil tanks, and cloth almost exactly as you describe. The weapons were wiped down & bore wiped just as you discuss. They went bang most every time except for rare failure usually caused in the electric firing sequence. Most were electrically run bolt, firing pin, and primers with high cyclic rates & hot running barrels. Headspace & wear specs measuring was important but the gun cleaning was what 😅kept ‘em running. Gun Plumber & Gun Cleaner …one and the same. We used Stoddard solvent & rarely any other chemicals ‘cept the MilSpec (high altitude low temps) oil. Bomber gun barrels, sticking outa the tails of B-47s, having had hot baths of soap\𝐇₂𝐎’ & oil, only needed a soft cloth rubdown, and like the proverbial postman “Neither snow nor rain nor heat nor gloom of night stays these couriers from the swift completion of their appointed rounds.”
I'm so glad to see your appreciation for the Mini platform, they're really underrated as long as the intention of the platform is put into its usage. Also lubriplate 130aa is what I've used for years, it's a great low/high temp grease.
I must agree the Kaiser’s oil is extremely expensive, however it does not hurt wood or rubber or synthetic grips and stocks. A little bit goes a long way to protect the entire gun from corrosion. Thank you for your time and work in making these videos. They are very informative, and I do learn a lot from you.
I am grateful for all of your teaching over the years, and I hope you have a merry Christmas as well.
One of my favorite channels over the last 8 years, and certainly the most informative!
My favorite lesson from him is about using copper jackets and not to be worried about cleaning out the copper as much as I first presumed.
This type of knowledge and experience is essential.
Good information. I remember in basic training when in classes to strip and clean the M16 there was a guy next to me who was using lots of oil on the gun. The instructor came by to inspect the guns and chewed the kid out. He said "You've got enough oil on that for five rifles!".
I always appreciate your simple approach and explanation of various topics ... you are very professional and a rare asset to the community. Thank you
I have been involved with guns since real little and my dad always used hopes no 9. But your videos are right on the money. Thank you and God bless.
Thank You so much, and Merry Christmas! Great vids. I"m former Army Ranger 2/75. You've got the best vids and advice out there ... I'm always learning. Best to you and your family!
Looking at the walls behind you, and wondering. I bet there is a funny story about a husband, and a wife, and the interior decorating. Your gun advise is always sensible and practical, thanks for your time.
Just a utility sheetrock wall in an unfinished basement. 😊
This is my favorite gun channel. I look forward to each new posting. Over the years, I've benefited greatly from your seasoned and practical advice on firearms. I also enjoy and benefit from your more spiritual insights. Keep up the good work. and a very Merry Christmas to you and your family!
Haha: I always get laughed at for saying this, so now it's your turn 😁
As a mechanic, I always get a kick out of people waxing poetic about their favorite snake oil.
Guns are a pretty simple machine - like anything else, you look for wear and lubricate those areas.
In more than 50 years of shooting, I have seen loaded pistols and revolvers practically drowning in oil. The usual result is dud cartridges if they have been in the gun for a long time. Some European ammunition has primer and bullet sealing, but don't count on it. I still have a lot of PMP .303 Mk.7 ball with corrosive chlorate primers and an aqueous solution of Young's .303 neutralises the salts. This is very scarce now, so hot water funneled down the bore works, followed by thorough drying and regular cleaning. For that, I mix up a batch of Ed's Red (paraffin, mineral turpentine, ATF and acetone), at minimal cost. A blessed Christmas and a happy shooting New Year!
Always sound, accurate advice. Thank you sir!
Been doing flannel/mineral oil ever since your previous video on this subject. Works exaxtly as you state. Even got a few OLD handguns wrapped in it inside those cheap WallyWorld plastic cases. Recently looked at one that's been stowed away for 3-4+ years. Same as day it was tucked away.
Thanks for the solid advice and saving me money.
Thank you for this straight forward advise. We were issued M16s in the 80's that had thousands and thousands of rounds fired through them, so the tolerances were fairly loose. We always kept them and ran them pretty dry. In the event that we were firing more than a couple hundred rounds, we'd add some lube to the bolt/carrier interface areas and that was pretty much it. There were hardly any issues. Now if you have a new gas operated rifle then I would lube slightly during the break in period for sure. During heavy use, there are cases of baked on carbon around the bolt (where it fits near the gas tube of AR rifles) and piston areas (of AK and SKS variants) that needs a bit more than a casual wipe (IMO). I like CLP (my military experience stays with me).
Great information...I use Green Clean diluted 5:1. Same principle super cheap and long lasting. Once my cleaning kit lube is gone I'll jump to the mineral oil. My handguns per the manual recommend 6 drops of oil period.
Ya know this is SOOO refreshing. This guy is COMPLETELY on top of the simple facts!!!! Ive been doing this for a LONG time. IF I sell a gun people say "wow it looks new" Ummmm nuff said!!
Solid advice. The harshest solvent i ever use these days is a tank of good old boiling dihydrogen monoxide. Thatll strip out corrosive salts, black powder residue, grease, grime, dirt and even convert rust back into bluing. I dont however agree that guns DON'T need lubrication. They do. They are mechanical devices with metal on metal contact points. They just need far less than most people think. Drops, not drizzles and only on wear points.
DHMO is very dangerous. It can pool in low areas and displace air. It’s especially hazardous in cold weather.
It's hydrogen hydroxide, the correct chemical composition expression. (H20, sometimes called "water.")
Good one!
@@eb1684 I got that from Mark Novak. When I say I clean things and bathe in Dihydrogen monoxide I get really weird looks and LMAO for a while until I inform them that it's water. LOL
@@krockpotbroccoli65 But it's not right and annoying to knowledgeable folks. (admittedly very few these days).
When I was a kid my Dad gave me a patch from a flannel shirt with a little ATF on it to wipe down my .22. I’ve used what ever was left over in the garage too. A little wheel bearing grease goes a long way. I still like hoppes for copper fouling. ✌️
I put Ballistol on almost everything! I use it sparingly applied to patch cloth so a little 4oz jug has lasted me years! Plus I like its scent. Still use Mineral Oil for just about everything else.
Years ago you got me hooked on minimizing lube and using mineral oil, great advice. Gotta say, after a busy range day it’s not so much like wiping a greasy wrench off as it is cleaning out the exhaust pipes on a Kenworth.
Early 70s, my best friend lived next store his dad was a gun smith and we helped clean firearms he only had paint thinner.
Paint thinner is HIGHLY FLAMABLE ask any firefighters MUCH more flammable than kerosine or diesel fuel.
I am a 30 + year firefighters and learned this in my first year.
Isn’t diesel not extremely flammable, at least compared to gasoline
@@Mark-uh4zd. No it’s not as flammable . That’s the big plus with modern jet engines in aircraft.
@@drizlerThere are a few diesel-powered piston engined aircraft, but most turbine engines burn kerosene-based fuels.
As someone who grew up around guns but was still a little green with rifles, unfortunately my grandfather passed before I learned more, I was lubricating my weapons maybe a little too much. Not to the point of damage or blockage, but if a rag is all that's needed, I'm glad to learn and adjust.
I have started using Mineral oil ever since I saw your first video on it. Made so much since. I keep two cloth rags coated with it in a Ziploc bag at my bench. Thank so much for the great advice.
Me too 😊
Same here. Paint thinner and mineral oil.
Please be careful with the oily rags and pads. Think "spontaneous combustion" that can ignite alone and burn your house down.
Mineral oil is a great way to create a gummy mess inside your firearm.
@@rifleshooterchannel208 than you used to much.
Thanks for your profession of faith. I appreciate the simplicity of your advice. God bless you and your family.
It's unnecessary and I won't be watching any more of his videos.
Worked for a large gun range, I worked for a large training company, I have burned out and replaced 7 AR15 barrels, one .223AI precision barrel, broken every part in a Glock except for the barrel itself and the tabs the slide rides on, reloaded 10,000 rounds latest year alone. I have never seen a gun stop running or get damaged for too much lubrication.
ARs and Glocks may run. How does more dirt migrate behind the extractor, the firing pin channel? How does more dirt accumulate in the trigger group?The manufacturer is wrong, the trained armorers are wrong, Glock telling people where to lubricate for decades...how could they know more? A-mazing.
@@onpsxmember Have you ever considered my good sir that maybe when freakish things happen too a large company, maybe the time a bad part slipped through due too a lazy employee for instance or maybe the time Mr Elmer Fudd didn’t check headspace before firing his proud new Ruger MK77 and it blew up in his face.. then maybe the large company would want too blame it on someone else? Just a thought. Because a properly built firearm can fire under water. I have done it. A little oil in the breech shouldn’t harm anything.
THANKYOU!! I realize that over lubrication of my firearms could cause major personal injuries. So now I will use much less lubricant by just wiping down with a lightly oiled flannel cloth. Mineral oil is far less expensive than special gun oils. So thank you, have a Merry Christmas and a Health, happy New year.
Good advice. I was wondering about long term storage of guns and how often, if any, one would need to pull them out for a wipe down.
Great info. I was sitting in on a NY state concealed carry course, and the instructors told the 8 students in attendance to spray their pistols with WD-40 after every time they handled the firearm. And when they took them out, just take a cloth to wipe them off, put the ammo in and carry it. I was amazed, and both instructors made the same suggestion several times throughout the 2-day training course.
Merry Christmas to you and your loved ones and please have a safe and enjoyable New Year's celebration. Years ago I started using mineral spirits and oil. For nostalgia and because I, too, like the smell I keep a small bottle of Hoppes open when I clean my firearms. At my age there is little harm that the chemical odor will add to my condition and it brings back fond memories of buddies and family sitting around sharing our love of firearms. God bless!
I have been using an engine treatment for the last 20 years. Duralube, like Slick 50. When I get powder residue, it's just that. Powdery. It does not seem to sludge up.
Issues with other products is lack of rust inhibitors, excessive lower-temp burnoff or running oil. Solvents that will eat at rust based finishes, like bluing. Also even solvents like Hoppes that is mildly corrosive and needs to be fully removed when done.
If not an appropriate engineer who knows the differences... I'd stick to proven firearms products. This is mostly the advice gunsmiths stick to on oils at least, so the cheapest one on hand is the go to. This is often Break Free CLP, because it's made in such quantities for the military that's it's far cheaper for its performance even for civilians. It's not just where burnt powder collects that's the place to worry about, but the oil from other areas that got hotter having all the oil running out or evaporating off action parts.
Love your videos, they are very informative.
OIL on a gun will flow down into the wood stocks over time when stored upright. Then it soaks into the wood and turns it black and rotten. Sometimes you see it in very old guns but still excess oil can be bad news setting around. I use some Lubriplate I got for free on my Garand. I think USGI specified 130A and the 130AA is a bit thinner grease but it works. I got a beautiful walnut stock I would have liked over the one I have, on my M1 carbine, but I found it had turned all black behind the recoil lug and deteriorated the wood from oil.
Another great and informative video! Thanks for everything you do, your video releases are always a high point of my day!
Merry Christmas and Happy New Year!
Thank you! A modicum of sense and wise words. Have a great Christmas
Merry Christmas to you and yours!
WD-40 to clean. 3-in-1 oil for lubrication. (For metal on metal surfaces.) Mineral Oil for the wood. That's been my go to for many a decades and has worked great up to this point. Thanks for the share!!
3 in 1 oil will burn off too fast to protect a firearm.
WD 40 will thin out the blueing on blued metals.
@@mojo4376 Incorrect. I shoot 800 to 1000 rounds a month.
@@kbk7478 wives tale
I was taught by my father, who was a Korean war Air Force small arms instructor, to clean firearms with Ivory Soap in hot water. You are the only other person I've ever heard saying the same thing! Good info, great video.
Rust??
Paul Harrell used soap and water, with other things, too. It was taught that way in Basic Training.
Thank you for your videos my Brother In Christ. A very merry, blessed & peaceful Christmas to you and your family from Shonah & I in Scotland.
Some of the mainstream oils, Hoppes and the like, will react with the polymers in guns of recent manufacture as well.
I do like the Kaiser's goop for leather.
Great to see you back with more content. Much appreciated.
I’d love to hear you elaborate about the 22 hornet, I believe you could shed much light on such a classic cartridge. Thank you again.
I agree 100% on not over lubricating firearms, I see it often as well and if one says something, people find it offensive. Saw one guy spraying lube directly into the receiver chamber area. Have no idea why, there's nothing to lubricate there. Lubricating because it was jamming. jamming because he over lubricated it and the carbon build up is hampering it.
Always a good start to the morning when you see a new video from gunblue! Thanks for sharing your wealth of knowledge, you never disappoint. Merry Christmas from your neighbors in Maine.
I have found in over 40 years of shooting and cleaning firearms, Ballistol is the best all around cleaner, lubricant and preserver by far. It too can be watered down to make "moose milk". I worked for a stainless steel sink manufacturer and we used Ballistol watered down to make "moose milk" as a weld grinding lubricant. It works wonder on wood and leather. The best hands down.
At 5:52, that's what he is discussing, basically saying don't buy Ballistol. I use it for black powder arms. I don't find it any more effective on smokeless residues than Hoppes. Other people report different results. As GunBlue says, I mostly use mineral spirits.
@@wdtaut5650
It is nothing out of the ordinary. It may be healthier but it doesn't do anything better. It is water soluble. So a coat on the gun will be less protective as others when it is humid or raining. They know that and have other variants for storage.
The aggressive advertising is annoying.
It may be interesting if on has to fly with liquids based on certain rules not being restricted in some places.
It all has to work with the usage and environment.
With my ARs I clean the bore with Hoppes on a bronze brush about a dozen strokes and let it sit for 20-30 minutes, followed by wet patches of Ballistol until no black patches pass through and a few dry patches.
The BCG I clean in an aqueous ultrasonic cleaner, though a brush and Hoppes also works well, it is then lightly lubed internally and on the receiver contact points with 0w20 synthetic motor oil left over from my oil changes; I buy 5 qt jugs of Valvoline 0w20 and my vehicle holds 4.8 qt, so I always have a few ounces left after each oil change.
I wipe the exterior down with Ballistol on a blue paper 'shop rag'.
Can't recommend you oil choice at all... but one thing I can suggest, if you've never heard of 'de-gassing' your ultrasonic cleaners solution before using it for parts, you should look it up. It works!
For ones you dont use often there are also those sleeves that go over them in the safe. Like an oiled wool sock. I have one but I forget what they are called.
Gun sock
@@williamgaines9784 Hey I was close!
Thanks, for this...perfect messaging - I use one product - Ballistol - not expensive, non-toxic and it works great. Also love the idea of having a oil cloth, I use a silicone gun cloth, but does the same thing. Thanks for the info on Lubriplate, I have heard about that in the past.
Problem with mineral oil is it will not likely prevent rust and you will need to wipe down gun every month even if you do not use it. I use Renaissance wax to prevent rust and also preserves wood for long term storage.
I use Renaissance Wax on places I won't get to often, like on the frame of revolvers that the stocks cover. Or on portions of bolt action rifles hidden by the stock. External only, of course.
Hence the Ed Red gun cleaner and lube uses lanolin .
Lanolin is probably one of the best anti rust and water proof protection there is
One of the best protection against water is lanolin .
A wax that is extracted from lamb wool . Lanolin is what natural water proofer for lamb .
Wiping down steel and stock with oily lanolin cloth will protect them from humidity and rust .
Instead of lubriplate grease
I have several tube of superlube .
@@sofjanmustopoh7232Rust was not a problem when natural grease and fat lubes wee used .Use T C bore butter on steel to prevent rust much better than petroleum based oils.
Correct on rust inhibitors of course.
On Ren wax... I wouldn't use that on anything without wood unless it's going to sit a long time. Unless your storage conditions are really so bad you need wax. If so, I'd consider Ballistol or Boeing T9 Shield, as they spray or wipe on, and leave a thin wax when they dry. Ren wax is usually tacky and only applies where you wipe or scrub it on...
I use Ren wax on old stuff, especially like old milsurps I won't shoot any time soon. Especially where wood and metal touch, and inside the stock in general.
I've used Stoddard's Solvent, Kerosene, Oil lantern fuel and lighter fluid-they all work equally well. Metal brushes are WAY too erosive and plastic brushes/patches should be the norm. I also shoot vintage guns/ammo and hot water does wonders for cleaning corrosive primers. Lubriplate is a fantastic soap based lithium grease and very sticky-I use it on all of my semiautos. Most jacketing will come out with judicious use of Sweets 7.62, but one must be careful. My dollars worth-John in Texas
Just to throw this out, Paint thinner is ANY solvent that can thin paint or CLEAN brushes and other painting tools. It can be pure mineral spirits, mixed mineral spirits, or other stuff like turpentine, acetone, naphtha, toluene, and more. Paint thinner is usually less refined than mineral spirits and might have added chemicals like benzene to make it work better and smell nicer.
Mineral spirits are mainly used to clean metal surfaces before painting or finishing them. They work great for removing grease and oil, which helps the paint stick better. However, don't leave them on as a coating because they'll evaporate and won't provide any protection.
At 64, I've been hunting since I was 16 and have been around guns all my life. I had the fantastic opportunity to work with a gunsmith after school, then later for him part-time until his untimely passing. God Bless his soul.
I completely agree that the #1 killer of cleaning guns is over-oiling them. The #2 killer of guns is neglect, by not wiping them down with a PROTECTIVE coating and under lubricating.
Stainless steel rifles are already good at resisting corrosion and don't need to be oiled. If you're mostly worried about corrosion, the stainless steel alone should be enough. Wipe it down with something like Mineral Spirits, as GunBlue stated, and you're good to go.
Bluing is a different beast. Bluing creates a delicate finish, usually only 1/10,000” thick, so it can scratch easily. Bluing is a process that darkens iron, steel, brass, and aluminum to a bluish-black color. It makes the metal look better, protects it from rust, and makes it non-stick. You are NOT protecting metal here. You are protecting the 1/10,000” thick coating layer. Mineral spirits are a great option to clean it, but it's prone to rust if left untreated.
As a New Englander, I hate to spend money needlessly, but I have a large sum invested in my firearms. I'm not going to cut corners taking care of them. I want something specially formulated to protect the bluing coating. NOT just the metal.
Now, what product to use is the debate of the ages. Like Blue, being old school, Im drawn to Hobbes. I use the traditional for cleaning and coating, then their lubricant SPARINGLY. I take special care that no fingerprints are left when I put them away.
Love the aroma of Hopps #9. Since 1962!
Another great video sir! Merry Christmas and may God bless you and your family!
glad your still making video's , Good videos . And I used to use gun oil on my semi auto But I found it would freeze up in cold weather here in Canada . Then I used a compressor oil that was laying around and WOW never ever froze the action again .
When I was a kid, daddy introduced me to his Auto 5. All he ever did was wipe it down with an old worn out t shirt that he sprayed with a shot of gun oil. Looks as good today as when he bought it in ‘63!
10-4 on the Lubriplate! Just a dab is all it takes.
WD40 is a great crud cutter. Good for cleaning guns that have been immersed in water. A lot of people curse it, but it works!
My guy here used the word "apothecary" in a sentence. OLD SCHOOL! Of course, still the right school. I use Rem Oil, which is largely mineral oil with Teflon added
Earlier videos covering this topic made me realize I was in the over-lubrication bunch. Something I had been doing for years and never really thought about until it was brought up here.
Lubriplate…I haven’t hard that in many decades….I was a Marine Aviation Ordnanceman and that’s all we used on the 20mm MK4 gunpod for the F4 Phantom. Lubriplate was the only authorized grease for that gun. A bit of over kill on small arms though.
I appreciate your videos, alot of good knowledge. Merry Christmas. 🇺🇸
Your channel is amazing I always enjoy your knowledge on this subject it never gets old hearing it. I often re watch your older videos on the subject. You’re a great person and thank you for sharing your passion for our lord and savior Jesus!! Merry Christmas to you and your family and I hope you have a blessed new year ahead!
I agree completely with your method. I always use a rag with a drop of oil to wipe down my guns.
I would like to hear your thoughts on shotgun bore cleaning for us clay shooters. I always hear that the plastic from the wad will build up in the barrel. However I rarely clean the bore of my shotgun and I shoot a lot of trap.
I miss your cooking videos as well. It looks like some beer brewing equipment in the background. Would like to see a video of you brewing beer. I used to brew and still have the equipment. It might just get me to brew again.
I shoot a lot of trap, skeet & sporting clays and clean my shotgun, including the barrels, after every outing. Plastic fouling does accumulate. Don't be lazy. A clean and properly lubed firearm will last years and hold their value more than one that has been neglected.
Probably best way to clean a shotgun bore, and will come out looking well polished, is mixing your bore solvent (mineral spirits is fine) with JB bore cleaning compound on the patches. Push through by hand. A little goes a decent ways, and gives the best, probably quickest results. It doesn't have the grit to do any real, deep polishing, so won't hog out the bore at all.
Thanks for keeping it simple. Love the break down and God bless you too!
I use a few drops of synthetic motor oil in places that need to be lubed.
Motor oil performs really poorly on rust prevention compared to a LOT of the gun oils and greases.
@ motor oil has water dispersants and detergents.
The most important aspect of a gun cleaner or lubricant for me is the container it comes in. Is it easy to use without wasting it or making a mess? Is it easy to spill? Does it leak when I’m not using it? If I get a bottle of mineral oil, half the bottle will end up spilled all over my bench. Yes, I know this might imply some laziness on my part. Great video. I agree with everything.
Paul Harrell had a video showing how he cleaned his pistol with soap and water too.
Afair he cleaned his A1 with the A2 front based on the old M16 field manual.
Having lived in desert and wet environments, too much oil causes problems. My dad taught me to use graphite instead of oil as it will not accumulate dust and cause problems. Also, putting oil on barrels and other blued parts tended to hold water on the metal surface causing rust and pitting. Only put oil on parts that need it!
P.S. My dad was a gunsmith, he knew what he was doing.
At 10:03 he picks up the manual, reads the large print "Warning", pauses, puts his glasses on, then continues to read the small print.
*I felt that deep in my soul.*
When reading glasses become part of your life, it’s really annoying. And as far as I know once you’re in that group, it’s never going to change😖
@@TucoDog-ho6fw Lasik
I still use Hoppes #9 as I like the smell, and it brings back good memories. One thing he missed is we can use 0000 steel wool with the Hoppes to deal with any rust or gunk on the outside of the barrel. I then use a cotton cloth to remove any Hoppes. After, I like to use the Remington Oil wipes that look like baby wipes. These wipes help prevent over oiling. I also use a thin layer of synthetic grease on any parts that move and touch.
As a professional gunsmith, I have to find products available in quantity that are affordable and work well. It's also important that these products be as non-toxic as possible since I come into contact with them almost daily. Here's what I use in the shop: general cleaning/degreasing - Zep Orange Citrus degreaser, bore cleaner - Bore Tech Eliminator, lube grease - Lubriplate SFL-0, gun oil - Lubriplate FMO oil. I use grease for most general lubrication since it stays put and does not migrate. Stainless actions do need lubrication as stainless will gall on itself. AR platforms need to have visible lubrication on the BCG. There are some specialty products that work very well on things like hard carbon deposits found on muzzle devices and bolt carriers. For these I use my ultrasonic cleaner or for parts that cannot go in the ultrasonic cleaner, Bore Tech C4 Carbon Remover and a brush.
b olt c arrier g roup, acronyms suck
@@blueplasma5589if you own an AR you know what a BCG is.
4:24 Mineral spirits/paint thinner is about as flammable as kerosene. I have put it in a kerosene lamp for fuel. Burns about the same. Don't be careless with paint thinner and fire.
Not much left to lubricate here in Canada. Soon, you must make a video for us on how to clean flintstocks 😂
Use anal lube presently, should of never given them up!