Відео

Excellent but 3/4 inch shorter lop than before,Hopefully dont matter to customer.

NICE

Did Ya Tigthen up tje barrel n How /What there!?

Cool

Did yoy polish off the old blueing or just redo? I can tell in this might be the lighting

My late Uncle used tinker n did this Hopefully I can find that tool bolt holder.

I'm not a gunsmith, but I think this method worked very well. Sanding after repairs, and before staining and finishing seems to have worked well.

Thanks for sharing. 👍👌🦬

You make this stuff look easy.

There is a kit with the proper bit and a centering jig, Midway USA #375761, Brownell's #488000006. This eliminates any off-center problem.

Perfect.

👏👏👏

Nicely done!

Good video, are you going to have a video on installing the front sling stud?

Caustic acid? Hmmm. Do you worry about the barrel being thinner in that area being weakened? Depending on the depth of the pits, I would be concerned with pressure depending on the working pressures of whatever you may be working on? Thanks for your thoughts on this.

Fantastic work.

I use end mills for boring into aluminum. Round end mills work the best.

I really enjoy your videos. You know your stuff. Curious what set of bits you have in this video? Seems like all the gunsmithing bit sets I find these days aren't nearly as well made as some of my older partial kits.

Thank You for sharing your know how with us.

Hello Great video. Did u make the forging block ? And I have looked for the heat sink bolt and can't find any. Was wondering if u made it also. And I'm having trouble finding the heat stop puddy . Any help is appreciated. Thanks.

Surprised a 1022 barrel had a good enough finish from the factory to worry about. I probably would just wire wheel it and paint it under the stock anyway.

In woodworking when sanding a radius you come at it from 45° and roll over and through your defect from one end to the other. The feathering to blend is where the skill of "eyeing" and how "the handing" of it feels is how good gunsmiths get sought out.

Nice job end result looked great, I find that no matter what mill vice you have the jaw cocks when the work is on one side so I put a block on the opposite side to prevent that.

I had a girlfriend like that, but it couldn't be fixed.

Nice work, I enjoyed watching every second ❤

I always use cardboard from the inside of a cereal box with a bit of oil to blend the blueing repair.

What if a Customer wanted a .260 Remington or 7mm-08 ,how would it be done?

👌👍👊🦬

Very Nice !

Nice work.

Teak was a good touch.

👍🏻

Please name the number of this Lyman 99 sight. Rarely seen nowadays and expensive. Tak.

Have you considered Screw Machine length drills? I switched to M42 Cobalt 135° split point screw machine drills for most drilling on my Mill for work similar to that you are showing. Spot facing with a mill prior to drilling as mentioned in another post is also good practice.

Great job! I would trust you to do anything. Going to get this video around. I am getting some more projects for you to do. Again, I’m really impressed.

Very useful video.

The first center drill was a little bent. At the shop I worked in we used spot drills before drilling either holes to be tapped or through holes. I would set the depth of the spot drill to make a chamfer for the hole so I didn't have to chamfer in a second operation. It also made relief for the tap if it was a tapped hole. On curved surfaces we sometimes milled a flat the correct diameter before spot drilling so the drill wouldn't walk. Spot drills usually don't walk having a solid shank. At times we used center drills to spot hole locations the same way you did. Lots of ways to skin a cat if you have the right tools. Most of the parts I made on a milling machine would fit in a cigar box.

Kinda unrelated to bluing, but have you ever fixed any of the 7400's that have issues ejecting the casings? I have one that just sits in my safe because the casings get stuck in the chamber and it rips the lip off trying to eject them. Ive literally tried to give it away and no one wants it.

holy crap, if you have GTAW why in hell would you GMAW?...the weld could easily be hard in spots or have cold lap. and... you use COPPER as a chill plate, NOT aluminum. pros don't use Dremel...... im out

Great repair, Don.

Good job on the repair. I have done similar repairs on different things.

As always, nice work. 👍🦬

Awesome info. I have a Win 94 with an extra hole in the Upper tang. Would you recommend this same procedure? I had envisioned drilling the hole to a std size, tapering the top and bottom of the hole with a countersink, tig welding a plug into the hole, then filing and polishing as you did. Now that seems like a few too many unnecessary steps. Will hardness be a concern on the receiver tang? I will have to send it out to have the Logo restamped.

Did you hit it with cold blue when you were done? Outstanding work!

👏👏👏

Nice job

We're probably going to do some business at some point I've messaged you a couple times, what I'm wondering this time is the center area of the rear "bridge " ? Is flat once you ground it im probably going with Leopold QR scope mounts which I believe are rounded, cutting them to flat would most likely make them way too big no ? Can you do the rear where you just barely grind through the bluing and blend everything in through the stripper boss , there's still a couple thousandths that's going to have to come off when I sand and sand and polish to get rid of the grinding marks

Loved the end result but the speed up got me dizzy.........as I'm working on a J Stevens "Crack Shot" .22 stock

Hi glad I found your channel.