Sorry we missed this comment 2 years ago! Will this: ua-cam.com/video/xqw5y3ThNkw/v-deo.html or this: ua-cam.com/video/6dkpHjptoJI/v-deo.html work for you?
By code the black conductor _should_ be black, but a more thorough test would be pulling both wires off of a device and testing them separately. The hot will have a voltage ~120, while the other should only have nominal voltage ~10-20
I have some 3-gang boxes in my house with all grounds connected with a wire nut, but there are no pigtails for grounding each of the switches. Is it ok to daisy-chain a single ground wire between all three switches, instead of using individual ground pigtails? My concern is that there is very little space left to add three individual ground pigtails. Is this ok and code-compliant? Seems like it's ok to do since a single ground is coming out of that grounding wire nut.
@@ElectricProAcademy I thought I’d ask another questions while I’m at it 😀 I have a GFCI in my garage with no other outlet or switch on that circuit. I want to install a floodlight, can I source power from the GFCI load side? All GFCIs in my house are by themselves on individual CBs, I don’t know if that’s a code requirement or not (I’m in NY).
Couple reasons: 1. While pigtails aren't formally calculated toward box-fill, they do take up additional real space. 2. More terminations means more additional potential failure points. 3. If there is a problem, A. There is intrinsic additional information in a single hot feed setup. All devices problematic? Home run or breaker issue. Only 1 device misbehaving? Either the device or the switch leg likely need replaced. B. Flipping the breaker for those 3 devices might be an inconvenience, but it's likely easily overcome (wear a headlamp, etc.).
Just have to mention that romex going into blue boxes must be stapled within 8 inches , 12 inch rule applies when you have a 2-screw NM connector like you would use on metal boxes because they actually grab the romex correctly
@@ElectricProAcademy I suspect that Matt is thinking about the exception to 314.17(C), where it states that where the cable is fastened within 8 in, securing the cable to the box shall not be required. There are blue boxes that have knockouts instead of integral clamps, but the one you used here does have clamps.
What's the plan for the hot wire and the ground? It looks like you will jump the ground wire from switch to switch and if so I can understand and accept that. The hot wire should be pigtailed to each switch imo. The flange on the box must be supported by using another stud. Letting it hang there unattached is unacceptable. Overall, I'm not thrilled, you can do better than this, Joel.
Why only one ground pig tail when you need 3 ? AND Why not just make up the bx already if ure already touch in it, I'm not a fan in touching things twice, if I see someone wasting time like that I'll fire them because there costing money to the company in being inefficient, touch it once leave it ready for trim-out and get out...!!
First of all, that's not a ground pigtail. In fact, he didn't do any pigtails at all, which is why he folded all the hot wires after joining that. Him or his other members will do the pigtails later when the walls are up and the switches are ready to be connected in the box. So I guess his method of bonding grounds is to use a green wire nut to leave one long wire which would then be pigtailed or connect all three switches. Second of all, this is his work, not yours. He's the CEO of his company, so the fact that you think so low of him really worries me. If you like to pigtail before trim-out then do so. But don't expect others online, especially a master electrician/CEO to follow everything you do
Can you share the link to the next video after this one? I'll be wiring up a 3 switch box and this would be perfect
Sorry we missed this comment 2 years ago! Will this: ua-cam.com/video/xqw5y3ThNkw/v-deo.html or this: ua-cam.com/video/6dkpHjptoJI/v-deo.html work for you?
@electricproacademy need a follow up video to this. What’s the plan for black wires and ground? Daisy chain?
Sorry we missed this comment! Will this: ua-cam.com/video/xqw5y3ThNkw/v-deo.html or this: ua-cam.com/video/6dkpHjptoJI/v-deo.html work for you?
Thank you, great and very clear lesson
Do u have a video for the next part connected the switch
Looking the internet over for this exact setup...thank you
how do you know witch one is the hot feed coming into the box ?? on a all ready installed outlet in a new home ??
By code the black conductor _should_ be black, but a more thorough test would be pulling both wires off of a device and testing them separately. The hot will have a voltage ~120, while the other should only have nominal voltage ~10-20
Why is there so much insulation inside the box?
Where is the pigtail for the neutral according to the 2023 NEC code?
This video was made in 2021.
@ the NEC code for the pigtail started in 2011
When do you attach the white neutral wire to the silver screw on the switch? If ever.
It's generally best practice to connect ground to green screw, then neutral to silver, then hot to brass last
In a Ryan Reynolds way, this is a great video!!
Loving the channel, quick question, why 14 gage and not 12 gage at least in the hot feeding the box?
Great video! Thanks!!!
I have some 3-gang boxes in my house with all grounds connected with a wire nut, but there are no pigtails for grounding each of the switches. Is it ok to daisy-chain a single ground wire between all three switches, instead of using individual ground pigtails? My concern is that there is very little space left to add three individual ground pigtails. Is this ok and code-compliant? Seems like it's ok to do since a single ground is coming out of that grounding wire nut.
Yep, totally fine! Good check.
@@ElectricProAcademy awesome, I appreciate the prompt response!
@@ElectricProAcademy I thought I’d ask another questions while I’m at it 😀 I have a GFCI in my garage with no other outlet or switch on that circuit. I want to install a floodlight, can I source power from the GFCI load side? All GFCIs in my house are by themselves on individual CBs, I don’t know if that’s a code requirement or not (I’m in NY).
@@keebineerthat’s where I would source it from if it were me.
@@jlewis1091that’s what I ended up doing :)
Why don’t do separate hots and grounds for each switch? It makes it easier if there is a problem .
Couple reasons:
1. While pigtails aren't formally calculated toward box-fill, they do take up additional real space.
2. More terminations means more additional potential failure points.
3. If there is a problem,
A. There is intrinsic additional information in a single hot feed setup. All devices problematic? Home run or breaker issue. Only 1 device misbehaving? Either the device or the switch leg likely need replaced.
B. Flipping the breaker for those 3 devices might be an inconvenience, but it's likely easily overcome (wear a headlamp, etc.).
Why that 3 gang box doesn't have a support on the right to keep the box from swinging in ,some places that won't pass INSPECTION 😢😢
you should pigtail the wires its more simple and more secure
Just have to mention that romex going into blue boxes must be stapled within 8 inches , 12 inch rule applies when you have a 2-screw NM connector like you would use on metal boxes because they actually grab the romex correctly
@@ElectricProAcademy I suspect that Matt is thinking about the exception to 314.17(C), where it states that where the cable is fastened within 8 in, securing the cable to the box shall not be required. There are blue boxes that have knockouts instead of integral clamps, but the one you used here does have clamps.
Hello do you have an email I can send you a pic and question?
Hit us up on Facebook or Instagram
Or Hello@ElectricProAcademy.com
I thought I was ahead of the curve by not wearing a ring.
😅
What's the plan for the hot wire and the ground? It looks like you will jump the ground wire from switch to switch and if so I can understand and accept that. The hot wire should be pigtailed to each switch imo. The flange on the box must be supported by using another stud. Letting it hang there unattached is unacceptable. Overall, I'm not thrilled, you can do better than this, Joel.
Never wired any switches. Ggggrrrrr
Horrible!!!!
Why only one ground pig tail when you need 3 ? AND Why not just make up the bx already if ure already touch in it, I'm not a fan in touching things twice, if I see someone wasting time like that I'll fire them because there costing money to the company in being inefficient, touch it once leave it ready for trim-out and get out...!!
First of all, that's not a ground pigtail. In fact, he didn't do any pigtails at all, which is why he folded all the hot wires after joining that. Him or his other members will do the pigtails later when the walls are up and the switches are ready to be connected in the box. So I guess his method of bonding grounds is to use a green wire nut to leave one long wire which would then be pigtailed or connect all three switches.
Second of all, this is his work, not yours. He's the CEO of his company, so the fact that you think so low of him really worries me. If you like to pigtail before trim-out then do so. But don't expect others online, especially a master electrician/CEO to follow everything you do
Too much sheathing in box you only need at least quarter inch son