Thanks for the video! You went more in depth than some of the other videos here. Using your method I found what seems like a dead/worn spot on my tps during the transition from idle position to wot. At about 25 - 35% from idle, measuring voltage only instead of the smooth progression of increasing value, it dropped down and then shot back up continuing like it should. I experienced this during my driving but never knew what caused the problem, it felt like I would lose power at a certain point during my acceleration but at cruising speed it would be ok. I replaced the tps and I don't have that issue anymore, again, thank you for the great video. It helps when things get pointed out and then I can test it for myself to find the problem. Mahalos!
I tested the harness like you did. I am finding that the signal pin is also showing 5v like the supply voltage. Is this normal? Trying to figure out where I went wrong, or if this is by design for my particular tps harness. I have 2001 mazda protege 2.0L
I replaced a TPS recently on a Ford Freestar. The closed throttle position on does not line up with the TPS. Turning it in order to install it seems like it would cause a problem.
i dont know why therr are 61 thumbs down but thats most likely why the people who put thunbs down are not running.this is a great peice of advice even a. woman can understand it... thats me...great utube guys 50 thumbs up.x
Unless someone is straight up giving harmful information why would someone thumbs down it. Lol. I have a “competing” channel that is small but growing and I have people trashing me too at times. Thankfully the vast majority are good people and trying to learn. I look at it as we are all on the same team. We are all looking for automotive knowledge. Haters Gonna Hate though! Haha. Good video man!
Like me, I found this is a great video and easy for me to fix my own throttle body work ,instead of having someone else do it. Plus I'll be saving money doing it myself...
Good video, but I would like you to make one for the 22RE Toyota 4-wire, you would help many people and more subscribers for you, let us know if you do, thanks
I LOVE PEOPLE THAT SHOW THE ACTUAL PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION, NOT THOSE ONE WHO TALK TALK AND TALK A LOT OF CRAP , THANK YOU FOR SHOWING YOU ARE A GODSEND.
99 F150 4.2 TPS can it be checked without being connected to the vehicle, I'm headed to Pull-A-Part Pull-A-Part to get a TPS , odometer and tach are racing up and down say I'm traveling 15mph. Tac/Od 7k@100mph Trans gives the impression it slipping, but in reverse it runs find
I find your videos are some of the most informative without getting overly technical with information that we don't really need to know. This helped me diagnose my tps and move on to find the real problem. Thanks brother
I just wanted you to know that you are an awesome person and thanks for taking the time to do this. Very easy and really good explanation on how and when to do the work. Have a great day and God bless you
So glad I found this video! Thank you! My intuition told me throttle position sensor initially, but advice from others was possible cma shaft sensor, Pulled codes that confirmed throttle positions sensor but not sure I can trust as this car was used when I bought it with a rebuilt hyped up racing motor. The wiring is sketchy. With that being said, having this knowledge lets me trouble shoot before buying the part! Car idles very rough when cold, and idle will increase then decrease on it's own. Slight acceleration issues as it doesn't immediately respond to pedal pressure. Runs better when warm. Idles great at higher speed. It does need exhaust running from the headers and back. These are racing headers so I'm unsure how much vacuum pressure plays a role. I have spark, but no start. In my research a no start is rare but possible. Any thoughts from others is graciously accepted :) Aware it could be timing, but want to start at the easiest point and work my way to that.
Just saw this in 2024. Thank you for this superb teaching video. I am grateful. At 67 years old, I now think I understand how the throttle position sensor works, thanks to you.
I just wanted to thank you bro you're a badass I want you to know that I work on cars I'm used a multimeter but you're playing spoken explanation with excellent in my understanding of the tool has increased exponentially thank you again
Following your video step by step trying to find a no spark issue on my truck. Both my tps and map sensor connectors have a little over 5 volts from 2 out of the 3 ports you probed trying to find the constant. I have no idea which one is the constant. I tested the map sensor connector just to see if maybe it was the connector. Now that I’m having the same issue in multiple connectors I’m curious if you know why I’d be getting 5 volts from more than one lead on the same connector? It seems to me that on both connectors my constant and signal wires are 5 volts and the ground may be the oddball with little to no voltage reading. I didn’t want to test resistance on either lead with 5 volts.
Great video! I love the way you placed the pin into the connector. Couldn't you have placed the ground probe into the negative battery post? Or would that not be as accurate? I love your video. Thanks!!!
I knew something was wrong with the TPS but wasn't sure. If I hadn't of seen your tutorial then I would've purchased one off of ebay without being sure that was my problem. Thanks a lot for your help, your video was very informative.
What I really appreciate about your video is that you gave clear & easy instructions on how to use the DVOM & for the 1st time I totally understand how to use it for testing my TPS! Thank you 🙏🏽 sir!!!
Great video. Thank you. You set the Multimeter to Resistance / Continuity to determine which wire is Ground. Therefore I take it that you cannot set the Multimeter to DC Volts to find the ground wire by connecting the red lead to the +ve battery terminal and using the -ve lead to find which of the 2 remaining wires is Ground ( I would expect to see 12V on the M/meter when finding the ground wire). I am curious to know if you can find the ground wire this way or not and if not, why? Or is Resistance / Continuity the only way to find the ground wire. Appreciate any feedback.
You could do that, I just went with resistance so that you can also see the resistance reading of your grounding wire. Its also a little quicker since you dont have to switch the test lead on your battery :)
Hey young man; Watching a ton of vids from great helpers like you, I'm still plugging along on my 1999 Dodge Durango 5.9. I have some knowledge a Haynes manual, digital meter and test light. I have solved some issues but still no start with NO BUS code. I now have spark and 50 psi fuel pressure. I did the (Ground search) test where I unhook positive battery termnl hook a test light to positive cable and touch probe to battery pos terml - weak light for a second then none. It will start with a bit of fuel dumped in carb. I have gently tapped on PCM and wiggled connections. I have no power to injectors. If you could allow me a bit of your time? Checking the 5 v supply wires on TPS, MAP, CRANK sensors they all read 5.27 volts. Is this an issue? Best; Tom
@01:33 How do we know our car power supply reference for this throttle position sensor? My toyota crown super saloon 1991 MT, 1gfe, 2.00 CC need help, please give me the information. For add information, i get 12 volt on my TPS, is it normal or what? What should i do to make it 5 volts if it's should be on that voltage.
Dude thanks a lot for this video. I have the "Circuit low input" code coming up on my GMC Sierra. This enabled me to check everything and put in a new throttle position sensor as well as repair a wire in an O'Reilly's auto-parts parking lot! These types of posts save people a lot of money. Thanks again!cheers bro
Great video...like your style...straight and to the point! I have a '91 Camaro with an LS1 engine. It has a new throttle body with new IAC & TPS. PCM threw a P0122 code which is low TPS voltage which should be around 0.5v-1v at idle up to 5v at WOT. Voltmeter read 0.13v at idle (which explains the code) and only 3.94v at WOT. Since the TB was new, the manufacturer sent me a new TPS under warranty. When tested, it was perfect...just under 1v at idle and 4.95v at WOT. A day later, the new TPS was back to the same range (0.13v at idle & 3.94v at WOT) which threw the same code P0122. Any ideas as to what could cause this voltage drop? FYI, this is a newly swapped engine. I am at a point of "crank, no start" and am troubleshooting that as well. I do have voltage at injectors and coils, spark and 58psi of fuel at the rail. Thank you!
My 1993 F 150 started idling way to high ( no tach but probably 1400RPM ). I unplugged the TPS and the idle went to normal. I drove it around the block with it unhooked and it actually drove ok with it disconnected (?!). I take it that I need to replace the TPS but it seems crazy that it idles and accelerates pretty decent with it not hooked up.
Great video. My 2000 Honda accord v6 is idle up and down. It normally idles at about 800 rpm’s but now it is jumping from 1000 to 2000, up and down, up and down. Could the TPS be causing this? I don’t see how to remove it from my throttle body. It looks like some type of lock washer system is holding it on to the throttle bottle. Not screws or bolts. Thanks any help is appreciated.
I have a 2008 Kia Rio. When testing voltage on wires unplugged from the TPS, one wire reads 5.78V, a second one reads 6.65 volts. Do I have a short between the wires, or bad ECM? EDIT: With the TPS plugged in, and needle pinouts to test the wire voltage, it behaves properly with just one wire reading 5.4V, and the signal wire starting at 0.2V and increasing to 5V as I turn the throttle. But unplugged from the TPS, the signal wire reads 6.4V. The car hesitates something awful when starting from a stop or going up hills. I have to to rev high rpm (not always easy to do) and release clutch cautiously while maintaining high rpm's to get it moving without petering out. It usually does ok once at highway speeds.
My tps percent reads 49% at idle and it should be 0 for my car. My car is a 2003 buick century. It doesnt stop there though, listen closely, the percentage likes to also randomize at times and so it sounds like my car is surging but its just the percentage going up and down. After the car warms up it goes down to 5% so it still has a high idle but definitely sounds better. My catalyst and egr tests wont complete because of this. Please somebody help, im desperate to know what this issue is.
Hi. I've got a 2003 Montero Limited 3.8L. Twice so far (1,000 miles apart) mine has gone into a condition where it will not accelerate. It idles and starts fine, but will not go over 40mph on level road, and takes a long time to get to that speed (severel minutes). It will be fine one moment and then begin this malfunction in the middle of driving it, in town or on interstate. I do have a TPS sensor code (P2135) but also cam and crankshaft sensors codes. The timing system is fine and it doesn't jerk or do anything strange except refuse to accelerate. I can turn it off and after 20 minutes it will operate fine again. Is the the TPS sensor getting hot and then it fails?
I am so glad I found this Igrbetslly search Old jeep issues. Zip cannot thank you enough for explaining everything so thoroughly. I was stumped with why I had crank but no comms no nothing. I did finally find my TPS was like cracked open. I have the new connector and Tps but my existing wire is a small gage the new connector wiring is at least double thickness. So I decided to see if I could find if it anyone else ran into this?
Great video. I cleaned my tps and tried to put it back in the correct way it came out but sometimes when I mash I get hesitation. What can I do ? I've tried different positions but didn't seem to work. Can you give some advise on this thanks
0.95 volt on close throttle?? Can you please explain why that's okay? I'm a beginner. I calibrated my tps sensor and set it to 0.50 volt on close throttle, because that's what was told to us on our car community (mitsubishi lancer 1990s models).. Full open throttle volt basically same, 4.6 something
I have a 2006 RAM 1500..3.7. I was testing the tps plug. With the plug uplugged, the multimeter gave me 5 volts in one pin and 4.7 in the Other pin...the last pin was 0...look like ground pin. Is that normal or there is any problem ?
Hey man awesome video but got a question for you. When you back probed it did you have the red gator clip connected to the middle wire on plug? Also do you have a video with a 6 wire throttle control?
So I've removed the cats from my 99 4runner the and it will idle soon as I put a load on it it will hold back and almost pop like its letting compression out. Previously the whole exhaust would glow cherry red so I assumed the cats. Now no cats i have just from the manifold down and same issue if the TPS is bad can it cause the engine to retard the timing. I'm assuming it's either running rich and possibly a cylinder misfire or a bad tps
Hi men , I recently cleaned my throttle body and map sensor on 2009 mdx but after the check engine light comes on and the idle was jumping up and down while releasing the gaspedal and also when I press the brake pedal then the rpm bounce. So I took it to mechanic and he cleared the code and relearned the tps and also did the idle procedure but still the problem is not solved. When I release the gaspedal now the rpm jump down and up again then stay between 1000 and 2000. Mechanic said it is normal but it is not normal to me and it was not doing this before cleaning. Do you think it is from the map sensor but it didn't throw any codes again. Any advice please and thank you
All 3 terminals showed current…yes the 5v terminal is fine to determine what you were looking for. But you placed the meter in resistance mode, then you check the other 2 terminals that initially showed current flow…you gotta explain that.
What does it mean if my signal wire is showing 3.4volts when testing the voltage in my TPS connector… also have code p0123.. how do I continue my diagnosis
Thank you The diagnostic procedure of the throttle position sensor is exactly what I need to know. Discovered that my TPS was outputting 4 1/2 Volts at idle ,closed throttle plate . Thank you again.
Yeah.. mine failed big time when I tapped on it. Thanks for helping win the fight on figuring out my headache. Now I can sleep with one eye open. R32 gtr was a popcorn machine
Thanks for the video! I tested my TPS and the output voltage at WOT was only 3.80 volts.. is that a problem? My transmission is acting weird (hard shiftings when cold).
All right to get two types of failures with that sensor one is it emitted failure that usually happens at an area like you drive at 3545 around your area all the time for years then it will go bad in that area and it's hard to text that but you will feel like a jerking Motion in the acceleration the other one is complete failure and which case the engine won't run
'Back probe' means to push very thin probes (needles) into the connections from the outside WHILE IT'S CONNECTED TO THE TPS, and take readings from those back probes.
thanks for taking the time to help others. you explain everything very well. ive seen some of your videos in the past & there spot on. thanks again & keep them coming your the first person i go to when i need help.
i live in the Caribbean, been learning alot from your videos. Great job! i wish i can migrate and work along side you, you seem to have so much to offer when it comes to dealing with vehicles
When you did the second part of the test after back probing did you still have the black probe connected to the battery ground? Where did you get the green probe and where did you plug the probes in your multimeter? My multimeter only has the black and red probes.
Check the throttle body to see if there is a gap. If there is a big gap, that can be caused by carbon or wear. It can cause high idle and codes. Replace it if it's worn. It may can throw codes about the TPS. Set the sensor for mid-range of specs.
All of your videos are awesome, I have learnt a lot from your videos. The RPM is jumping up and down a little while cruising at high speed, 75-80 MPH, could the TPS or transmission be the problem? I just clean the TPS and it looks super clean, but RPM is still jumping. Thanks
i had checked my TPS offline of course i put 5V supply , when i rotate the throttle the voltage at signal wire moves slowly up until i get ~4.5 voltage and back down when i slowly release the throttle.looks my tps is okay right? . but when i put back the TPS in the engine.I noticed that the signal does not increasing or not giving me a reading when we press on the gas pedal while the engine is running? so i still get hesitation . can you advise your comment here. thank
Hello friends I have a problem with the my car Mercedes CLK 270 CDI W209 / year 2004/, I did diagnostics and wrote code p0123 what part should I look for so I can replace it with that My diagnostic is for this ECU: Engine
Status: Confirmed
DTC: P0123
Description: Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A - circuit high
Potential
When you buy the 'My Dashboard, Logs, Parameters' plugin, you will get: Parameter logs playback and sharing them in CSV format OBD I l DTC decoding (extended list) Descriptions of potential causes of malfunctions for commonly encountered OBD Il DTCs Configuring all the parameters in the 'My Dashboard' section, not just 4 creating many custom dashboards Description of important parameters of the OBD Il standard Symptoms in my Mercedes : Rough idle Mercedes won’t idle High idle Idle at 2000 RPM Sudden idle surges Check engine light on Poor fuel economy Limp Mode Poor Acceleration
Symptoms in my Mercedes : Rough idle Mercedes won’t idle High idle Idle at 2000 RPM Sudden idle surges Check engine light on Poor fuel economy Limp Mode Poor Acceleration
Bout go outside and give this number a try. Just got a 950$ s10 and I personally believe these “hard shifts” are more along the lines of something fuel related, I can feel a misfire a very small one, I believe it’s the tps but I’m not no expert. Plus the truck is too old for my code reader. Giving u a like just for being cool. Hope I can figure something out without effing anything up haha
Thanks for the video! You went more in depth than some of the other videos here. Using your method I found what seems like a dead/worn spot on my tps during the transition from idle position to wot. At about 25 - 35% from idle, measuring voltage only instead of the smooth progression of increasing value, it dropped down and then shot back up continuing like it should. I experienced this during my driving but never knew what caused the problem, it felt like I would lose power at a certain point during my acceleration but at cruising speed it would be ok. I replaced the tps and I don't have that issue anymore, again, thank you for the great video. It helps when things get pointed out and then I can test it for myself to find the problem. Mahalos!
That tps is not 100%
it doesnt hold a steady voltage at idle, that means it shows a first sign of a worn sensor.
I tested the harness like you did. I am finding that the signal pin is also showing 5v like the supply voltage. Is this normal? Trying to figure out where I went wrong, or if this is by design for my particular tps harness. I have 2001 mazda protege 2.0L
I know this is way old but I’m seeing the exact same thing on a 91 dodge dakota. Did you figure that out?
I replaced a TPS recently on a Ford Freestar. The closed throttle position on does not line up with the TPS. Turning it in order to install it seems like it would cause a problem.
Mine goes from 038 to 3.85 at open throttle ???
i dont know why therr are 61 thumbs down but thats most likely why the people who put thunbs down are not running.this is a great peice of advice even a. woman can understand it... thats me...great utube guys 50 thumbs up.x
One word: Competitors, though you could make it 2 by adding jealous. But you are absolutely right and this guy makes some the best videos out there.
Some people are just never happy. they just have to have something bad to say.
Susan King absolutely your so rite, this guy is the best electrical guy on the internet, I totally agree, no thumbs down for this guy
Unless someone is straight up giving harmful information why would someone thumbs down it. Lol. I have a “competing” channel that is small but growing and I have people trashing me too at times. Thankfully the vast majority are good people and trying to learn. I look at it as we are all on the same team. We are all looking for automotive knowledge. Haters Gonna Hate though! Haha. Good video man!
Like me, I found this is a great video and easy for me to fix my own throttle body work ,instead of having someone else do it. Plus I'll be saving money doing it myself...
Good video, but I would like you to make one for the 22RE Toyota 4-wire, you would help many people and more subscribers for you, let us know if you do, thanks
You are so informative you put Scotty Kilmer to shame. He spends too much time bashing GM and FCA. Maybe he thinks it makes him a hero.
I really enjoy work on cars and have been learning a lot with your videos. thanks for sharing your knowledge amigo
Yes, very instructive and well filmed and well explained. Thank you.
Yes 🙌🏽
I LOVE PEOPLE THAT SHOW THE ACTUAL PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION, NOT THOSE ONE WHO TALK TALK AND TALK A LOT OF CRAP , THANK YOU FOR SHOWING
YOU ARE A GODSEND.
STOP YELLING
Avon G just because he types in caps does not mean he's yelling maybe he has bad eyesight ass whole
True
(Cough..SchrodingersBox..coughcough)
Exactly I've seen videos of talk talk talk and never talk about what the video was supposed to be about.
99 F150 4.2
TPS can it be checked without being connected to the vehicle, I'm headed to Pull-A-Part Pull-A-Part to get a TPS , odometer and tach are racing up and down say I'm traveling 15mph.
Tac/Od 7k@100mph
Trans gives the impression it slipping, but in reverse it runs find
I wouldn’t cut the wires. Could create an issue
I find your videos are some of the most informative without getting overly technical with information that we don't really need to know. This helped me diagnose my tps and move on to find the real problem. Thanks brother
I second that.
Did you strip the wire when you connected the aligator clip?? is the car was it on position while you turning the cable??
I just wanted you to know that you are an awesome person and thanks for taking the time to do this. Very easy and really good explanation on how and when to do the work. Have a great day and God bless you
I second that.
Your guidance is crystal clear and easy to follow. Nice job!
I second that.
Remember to turn the switch of to check ground on continuity.
This is not mencioned here
🙈🦟🕷
This is gold and this man has skills on explaining. Thank you....p.s. I took notes.
InstaBlaster...
Great video! It's always nice when someone takes the time to explain a job so well. Thank you.
I second that.
So glad I found this video! Thank you! My intuition told me throttle position sensor initially, but advice from others was possible cma shaft sensor, Pulled codes that confirmed throttle positions sensor but not sure I can trust as this car was used when I bought it with a rebuilt hyped up racing motor. The wiring is sketchy. With that being said, having this knowledge lets me trouble shoot before buying the part! Car idles very rough when cold, and idle will increase then decrease on it's own. Slight acceleration issues as it doesn't immediately respond to pedal pressure. Runs better when warm. Idles great at higher speed. It does need exhaust running from the headers and back. These are racing headers so I'm unsure how much vacuum pressure plays a role. I have spark, but no start. In my research a no start is rare but possible. Any thoughts from others is graciously accepted :) Aware it could be timing, but want to start at the easiest point and work my way to that.
Best shown i have seen on youtube. Now its all clear thanks!
I second that.
Can you make a video on electronic wire😊 thanks,
Thank you, very informative and to the point.
Just saw this in 2024. Thank you for this superb teaching video. I am grateful. At 67 years old, I now think I understand how the throttle position sensor works, thanks to you.
Great video, exactly the info I needed
I just wanted to thank you bro you're a badass I want you to know that I work on cars I'm used a multimeter but you're playing spoken explanation with excellent in my understanding of the tool has increased exponentially thank you again
Following your video step by step trying to find a no spark issue on my truck. Both my tps and map sensor connectors have a little over 5 volts from 2 out of the 3 ports you probed trying to find the constant. I have no idea which one is the constant. I tested the map sensor connector just to see if maybe it was the connector. Now that I’m having the same issue in multiple connectors I’m curious if you know why I’d be getting 5 volts from more than one lead on the same connector? It seems to me that on both connectors my constant and signal wires are 5 volts and the ground may be the oddball with little to no voltage reading. I didn’t want to test resistance on either lead with 5 volts.
Great video! I love the way you placed the pin into the connector. Couldn't you have placed the ground probe into the negative battery post? Or would that not be as accurate? I love your video. Thanks!!!
I knew something was wrong with the TPS but wasn't sure. If I hadn't of seen your tutorial then I would've purchased one off of ebay without being sure that was my problem. Thanks a lot for your help, your video was very informative.
Thank-you! Good and clear lesson. I know what to do!
😊 I've watched a few of these tests. Yours is number one. Top of the list 😁
great clear explanation, thanks for the professional advice ...👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
People giving this a thumbs down have no business even opening the hood. GREAT, simple, informative video!
Nice
What I really appreciate about your video is that you gave clear & easy instructions on how to use the DVOM & for the 1st time I totally understand how to use it for testing my TPS! Thank you 🙏🏽 sir!!!
I second that.
Great video. Thank you.
You set the Multimeter to Resistance / Continuity to determine which wire is Ground. Therefore I take it that you cannot set the Multimeter to DC Volts to find the ground wire by connecting the red lead to the +ve battery terminal and using the -ve lead to find which of the 2 remaining wires is Ground ( I would expect to see 12V on the M/meter when finding the ground wire). I am curious to know if you can find the ground wire this way or not and if not, why? Or is Resistance / Continuity the only way to find the ground wire. Appreciate any feedback.
You could do that, I just went with resistance so that you can also see the resistance reading of your grounding wire. Its also a little quicker since you dont have to switch the test lead on your battery :)
Hey young man;
Watching a ton of vids from great helpers like you, I'm still plugging along on my 1999 Dodge Durango 5.9. I have some knowledge a Haynes manual, digital meter and test light.
I have solved some issues but still no start with NO BUS code.
I now have spark and 50 psi fuel pressure.
I did the (Ground search) test where I unhook positive battery termnl hook a test light to positive cable and touch probe to battery pos terml - weak light for a second then none.
It will start with a bit of fuel dumped in carb.
I have gently tapped on PCM and wiggled connections.
I have no power to injectors.
If you could allow me a bit of your time?
Checking the 5 v supply wires on TPS, MAP, CRANK sensors they all read 5.27 volts.
Is this an issue?
Best; Tom
Awesome video helped me out a lot keep up the good work
@01:33
How do we know our car power supply reference for this throttle position sensor?
My toyota crown super saloon 1991 MT, 1gfe, 2.00 CC need help, please give me the information.
For add information, i get 12 volt on my TPS, is it normal or what?
What should i do to make it 5 volts if it's should be on that voltage.
Dude thanks a lot for this video. I have the "Circuit low input" code coming up on my GMC Sierra. This enabled me to check everything and put in a new throttle position sensor as well as repair a wire in an O'Reilly's auto-parts parking lot! These types of posts save people a lot of money. Thanks again!cheers bro
I second that.
Great video...like your style...straight and to the point! I have a '91 Camaro with an LS1 engine. It has a new throttle body with new IAC & TPS. PCM threw a P0122 code which is low TPS voltage which should be around 0.5v-1v at idle up to 5v at WOT. Voltmeter read 0.13v at idle (which explains the code) and only 3.94v at WOT. Since the TB was new, the manufacturer sent me a new TPS under warranty. When tested, it was perfect...just under 1v at idle and 4.95v at WOT. A day later, the new TPS was back to the same range (0.13v at idle & 3.94v at WOT) which threw the same code P0122. Any ideas as to what could cause this voltage drop? FYI, this is a newly swapped engine. I am at a point of "crank, no start" and am troubleshooting that as well. I do have voltage at injectors and coils, spark and 58psi of fuel at the rail. Thank you!
Great video. Simple and clear. Thanks man.
Frederick Garcia np, thanks for watching.
What does it mean if I have 5 volts on the power and signal wires in the connector when it’s disconnected?
Absolutely fantastic video. Clear, concise, and easily understood. Thank you!
I second that.
I second that.
My 1993 F 150 started idling way to high ( no tach but probably 1400RPM ). I unplugged the TPS and the idle went to normal. I drove it around the block with it unhooked and it actually drove ok with it disconnected (?!). I take it that I need to replace the TPS but it seems crazy that it idles and accelerates pretty decent with it not hooked up.
Great video. My 2000 Honda accord v6 is idle up and down. It normally idles at about 800 rpm’s but now it is jumping from 1000 to 2000, up and down, up and down. Could the TPS be causing this? I don’t see how to remove it from my throttle body. It looks like some type of lock washer system is holding it on to the throttle bottle. Not screws or bolts. Thanks any help is appreciated.
I have a 2008 Kia Rio. When testing voltage on wires unplugged from the TPS, one wire reads 5.78V, a second one reads 6.65 volts. Do I have a short between the wires, or bad ECM?
EDIT: With the TPS plugged in, and needle pinouts to test the wire voltage, it behaves properly with just one wire reading 5.4V, and the signal wire starting at 0.2V and increasing to 5V as I turn the throttle. But unplugged from the TPS, the signal wire reads 6.4V.
The car hesitates something awful when starting from a stop or going up hills. I have to to rev high rpm (not always easy to do) and release clutch cautiously while maintaining high rpm's to get it moving without petering out. It usually does ok once at highway speeds.
My tps percent reads 49% at idle and it should be 0 for my car. My car is a 2003 buick century. It doesnt stop there though, listen closely, the percentage likes to also randomize at times and so it sounds like my car is surging but its just the percentage going up and down. After the car warms up it goes down to 5% so it still has a high idle but definitely sounds better. My catalyst and egr tests wont complete because of this. Please somebody help, im desperate to know what this issue is.
Hi. I've got a 2003 Montero Limited 3.8L. Twice so far (1,000 miles apart) mine has gone into a condition where it will not accelerate. It idles and starts fine, but will not go over 40mph on level road, and takes a long time to get to that speed (severel minutes). It will be fine one moment and then begin this malfunction in the middle of driving it, in town or on interstate. I do have a TPS sensor code (P2135) but also cam and crankshaft sensors codes. The timing system is fine and it doesn't jerk or do anything strange except refuse to accelerate. I can turn it off and after 20 minutes it will operate fine again. Is the the TPS sensor getting hot and then it fails?
I am so glad I found this Igrbetslly search Old jeep issues. Zip cannot thank you enough for explaining everything so thoroughly. I was stumped with why I had crank but no comms no nothing. I did finally find my TPS was like cracked open.
I have the new connector and Tps but my existing wire is a small gage the new connector wiring is at least double thickness.
So I decided to see if I could find if it anyone else ran into this?
Great video. I cleaned my tps and tried to put it back in the correct way it came out but sometimes when I mash I get hesitation. What can I do ? I've tried different positions but didn't seem to work. Can you give some advise on this thanks
0.95 volt on close throttle?? Can you please explain why that's okay? I'm a beginner. I calibrated my tps sensor and set it to 0.50 volt on close throttle, because that's what was told to us on our car community (mitsubishi lancer 1990s models).. Full open throttle volt basically same, 4.6 something
I have a 2006 RAM 1500..3.7. I was testing the tps plug. With the plug uplugged, the multimeter gave me 5 volts in one pin and 4.7 in the Other pin...the last pin was 0...look like ground pin.
Is that normal or there is any problem ?
Hey man awesome video but got a question for you. When you back probed it did you have the red gator clip connected to the middle wire on plug? Also do you have a video with a 6 wire throttle control?
So I've removed the cats from my 99 4runner the and it will idle soon as I put a load on it it will hold back and almost pop like its letting compression out. Previously the whole exhaust would glow cherry red so I assumed the cats. Now no cats i have just from the manifold down and same issue if the TPS is bad can it cause the engine to retard the timing. I'm assuming it's either running rich and possibly a cylinder misfire or a bad tps
Hi men , I recently cleaned my throttle body and map sensor on 2009 mdx but after the check engine light comes on and the idle was jumping up and down while releasing the gaspedal and also when I press the brake pedal then the rpm bounce. So I took it to mechanic and he cleared the code and relearned the tps and also did the idle procedure but still the problem is not solved. When I release the gaspedal now the rpm jump down and up again then stay between 1000 and 2000. Mechanic said it is normal but it is not normal to me and it was not doing this before cleaning. Do you think it is from the map sensor but it didn't throw any codes again. Any advice please and thank you
All 3 terminals showed current…yes the 5v terminal is fine to determine what you were looking for.
But you placed the meter in resistance mode, then you check the other 2 terminals that initially showed current flow…you gotta explain that.
What does it mean if my signal wire is showing 3.4volts when testing the voltage in my TPS connector… also have code p0123.. how do I continue my diagnosis
Thank you The diagnostic procedure of the throttle position sensor is exactly what I need to know. Discovered that my TPS was outputting 4 1/2 Volts at idle ,closed throttle plate . Thank you again.
My Toyota works much better without tps, when I plug it in it just misfires.
Yeah.. mine failed big time when I tapped on it. Thanks for helping win the fight on figuring out my headache. Now I can sleep with one eye open. R32 gtr was a popcorn machine
Thanks for the video! I tested my TPS and the output voltage at WOT was only 3.80 volts.. is that a problem? My transmission is acting weird (hard shiftings when cold).
So you can trick the ECM with a more open throttle via the screw if there is a vacuum leak somewhere? Sounds like throwing lipstick on a pig
All right to get two types of failures with that sensor one is it emitted failure that usually happens at an area like you drive at 3545 around your area all the time for years then it will go bad in that area and it's hard to text that but you will feel like a jerking Motion in the acceleration the other one is complete failure and which case the engine won't run
Sir i have a problem on my crv M/T when deceleration reaches 1500 rpm my car jerks. I hope u can help me thanks.
Do you know what causes idle rpm increase, goes up to 1.5k, when pressing the brake pedal multiple times in a row?
Thanks for the help video was clear into the point I really appreciate it I got it running
In my case mine has 2 connectors with 3 wires running to each connector (6 in total) do they perform the same action and can they be tested the same?
3:15 : Could you please explain what "properly back rub using two needles" means? Thank you. Good work!
Yes . I'd like to know this too
'Back probe' means to push very thin probes (needles) into the connections from the outside WHILE IT'S CONNECTED TO THE TPS, and take readings from those back probes.
Great video....well spoken and to the point! Thanks.
Where can I find of location on my 2006 ford fusion SEL.2.3L 4cyl. Sir
Please set the single signal of the Mitsubishi Lancer Mirage Automatic 99 tps sensor to Cam Volt
thanks for taking the time to help others. you explain everything very well. ive seen some of your videos in the past & there spot on. thanks again & keep them coming your the first person i go to when i need help.
I second that.
i live in the Caribbean, been learning alot from your videos. Great job! i wish i can migrate and work along side you, you seem to have so much to offer when it comes to dealing with vehicles
Great video but one problem my 2003 Toyota Tacoma does not have a three pin connector it is a four pin
When you did the second part of the test after back probing did you still have the black probe connected to the battery ground? Where did you get the green probe and where did you plug the probes in your multimeter? My multimeter only has the black and red probes.
Those were just alligator clips. He put the the ground on the ground wire and the red lead to the middle computer wire.
I did this test and the position sensor turned out to be good. Can it be a dirty or bad throttle body thats causing a code p0122?
Check the throttle body to see if there is a gap. If there is a big gap, that can be caused by carbon or wear. It can cause high idle and codes. Replace it if it's worn. It may can throw codes about the TPS. Set the sensor for mid-range of specs.
What do you mean gap? Gap in between throttle body and motor?
What happens if you did touch the wrong 5 v reference wire with ohm setting
All of your videos are awesome, I have learnt a lot from your videos. The RPM is jumping up and down a little while cruising at high speed, 75-80 MPH, could the TPS or transmission be the problem? I just clean the TPS and it looks super clean, but RPM is still jumping. Thanks
What leads you to believe it could be transmission? Maybe cam shaft sensor?
Great info! Is this something you can also see using live data on your new Autel 708?
i had checked my TPS offline of course i put 5V supply , when i rotate the throttle
the voltage at signal wire moves slowly up until i get ~4.5 voltage and back down
when i slowly release the throttle.looks my tps is okay right? . but when i put back the TPS in the engine.I noticed that
the signal does not increasing or not giving me a reading when we press on the gas pedal while the engine is running? so i still get hesitation . can you advise your comment here. thank
do you have a video on testing TPS that don't use throttle cable control on the throttle body but have a TB motor ??
Hello friends
I have a problem with the my car Mercedes CLK 270 CDI W209 / year 2004/, I did diagnostics and wrote code p0123
what part should I look for
so I can replace it with that
My diagnostic is for this
ECU: Engine
Status: Confirmed
DTC: P0123
Description: Throttle/pedal position sensor/switch A - circuit high
Potential
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Symptoms in my Mercedes :
Rough idle
Mercedes won’t idle
High idle
Idle at 2000 RPM
Sudden idle surges
Check engine light on
Poor fuel economy
Limp Mode
Poor Acceleration
Symptoms in my Mercedes :
Rough idle
Mercedes won’t idle
High idle
Idle at 2000 RPM
Sudden idle surges
Check engine light on
Poor fuel economy
Limp Mode
Poor Acceleration
What brand and model of camera do you use my friend? Really crystal clear video.
Thanks boss for d nice video!. Now i can apply this process to my nissan sentra GA15dne😊
desubed soctty after I found this chanel
Scotty is a hack. Unfortunately there are even worse mechanics than Scotty out there
Great video. Clear and straight to the point. Thanks!!!
I second that.
Bout go outside and give this number a try. Just got a 950$ s10 and I personally believe these “hard shifts” are more along the lines of something fuel related, I can feel a misfire a very small one, I believe it’s the tps but I’m not no expert. Plus the truck is too old for my code reader. Giving u a like just for being cool. Hope I can figure something out without effing anything up haha
so if i back probe it and it comes back at 0 volts, the sensor is bad i take it?
Same method for if your car has 4 pins connecting to the TPS?
Bottom wire is the power top wire is the ground is the signal wire next to power wire?
Great video. Simple and clear.
So closed throttle I want 1 volt and wide open about 5?
What are you talking about back Probing what does that mean?
is the key turned on? cause he said at idle, and the cars clearly not running
What is the symptoms of thiis sensor fault??
Great explanation! Thanks for the video.
Guys why cant i test the voltage wire with resistance/continuity?
What about sensor with 4 wires? ?at LS400 1997
He has been offline for a while now where is ratchet and wrenches 😡😡