I LOVE PEOPLE THAT SHOW THE ACTUAL PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION, NOT THOSE ONE WHO TALK TALK AND TALK A LOT OF CRAP , THANK YOU FOR SHOWING YOU ARE A GODSEND.
So glad I found this video! Thank you! My intuition told me throttle position sensor initially, but advice from others was possible cma shaft sensor, Pulled codes that confirmed throttle positions sensor but not sure I can trust as this car was used when I bought it with a rebuilt hyped up racing motor. The wiring is sketchy. With that being said, having this knowledge lets me trouble shoot before buying the part! Car idles very rough when cold, and idle will increase then decrease on it's own. Slight acceleration issues as it doesn't immediately respond to pedal pressure. Runs better when warm. Idles great at higher speed. It does need exhaust running from the headers and back. These are racing headers so I'm unsure how much vacuum pressure plays a role. I have spark, but no start. In my research a no start is rare but possible. Any thoughts from others is graciously accepted :) Aware it could be timing, but want to start at the easiest point and work my way to that.
Thanks for the video! You went more in depth than some of the other videos here. Using your method I found what seems like a dead/worn spot on my tps during the transition from idle position to wot. At about 25 - 35% from idle, measuring voltage only instead of the smooth progression of increasing value, it dropped down and then shot back up continuing like it should. I experienced this during my driving but never knew what caused the problem, it felt like I would lose power at a certain point during my acceleration but at cruising speed it would be ok. I replaced the tps and I don't have that issue anymore, again, thank you for the great video. It helps when things get pointed out and then I can test it for myself to find the problem. Mahalos!
Just saw this in 2024. Thank you for this superb teaching video. I am grateful. At 67 years old, I now think I understand how the throttle position sensor works, thanks to you.
I find your videos are some of the most informative without getting overly technical with information that we don't really need to know. This helped me diagnose my tps and move on to find the real problem. Thanks brother
Dude thanks a lot for this video. I have the "Circuit low input" code coming up on my GMC Sierra. This enabled me to check everything and put in a new throttle position sensor as well as repair a wire in an O'Reilly's auto-parts parking lot! These types of posts save people a lot of money. Thanks again!cheers bro
What I really appreciate about your video is that you gave clear & easy instructions on how to use the DVOM & for the 1st time I totally understand how to use it for testing my TPS! Thank you 🙏🏽 sir!!!
I knew something was wrong with the TPS but wasn't sure. If I hadn't of seen your tutorial then I would've purchased one off of ebay without being sure that was my problem. Thanks a lot for your help, your video was very informative.
Thank you The diagnostic procedure of the throttle position sensor is exactly what I need to know. Discovered that my TPS was outputting 4 1/2 Volts at idle ,closed throttle plate . Thank you again.
Great video gave you a like. One thing to check: Once you see the TPS has correct and smooth voltage and operation, make sure that voltage signal is getting back to the ECU. If there is a break in the wire (mice like to chew on wires) or corroded contacts, the ECU won't see the TPS voltage and that causes all sorts of problems, but modern ECUs may throw an Error Code for that condition.
I just wanted you to know that you are an awesome person and thanks for taking the time to do this. Very easy and really good explanation on how and when to do the work. Have a great day and God bless you
I just wanted to thank you bro you're a badass I want you to know that I work on cars I'm used a multimeter but you're playing spoken explanation with excellent in my understanding of the tool has increased exponentially thank you again
Now to testing ! I have a 1994 F53 460 / 7.5 engine in a motor home, and it has given me so much trouble ! Trying not to throw parts at it! I have had it running well, then it just does not want to get up and go! If I didn't like the motor home and I didn't like the 460, I would walk away and sell it! Thanks, Rick
99 F150 4.2 TPS can it be checked without being connected to the vehicle, I'm headed to Pull-A-Part Pull-A-Part to get a TPS , odometer and tach are racing up and down say I'm traveling 15mph. Tac/Od 7k@100mph Trans gives the impression it slipping, but in reverse it runs find
Looks like a GM ? If I'm correct! I've done this so many times on my Toyota hilux ( Tacoma) but Aussie version! I'm glad you are around! Thanks heaps and cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍
i live in the Caribbean, been learning alot from your videos. Great job! i wish i can migrate and work along side you, you seem to have so much to offer when it comes to dealing with vehicles
i dont know why therr are 61 thumbs down but thats most likely why the people who put thunbs down are not running.this is a great peice of advice even a. woman can understand it... thats me...great utube guys 50 thumbs up.
'Back probe' means to push very thin probes (needles) into the connections from the outside WHILE IT'S CONNECTED TO THE TPS, and take readings from those back probes.
I have a 1996 Volvo 850T5 that stalled after code P0120. Almost got rear ended by a Mack Truck on the NJ turnpike! I changed the TPS twice. I also thought maybe the ECU was defective, so I changed that also.I cleaned the Throttle body with throttle body cleaner.. It seems that after about 25 miles the car stalls, I clear the code and then it runs for another 25 miles, until it stalls again and the code comes back. Thank you for your great Videos.
I tested the harness like you did. I am finding that the signal pin is also showing 5v like the supply voltage. Is this normal? Trying to figure out where I went wrong, or if this is by design for my particular tps harness. I have 2001 mazda protege 2.0L
Thank you very much, it was very informative, easy to follow along and to the point. Mostly find UA-cam to bore me with talking to much or hard to follow
I replaced a TPS recently on a Ford Freestar. The closed throttle position on does not line up with the TPS. Turning it in order to install it seems like it would cause a problem.
Following your video step by step trying to find a no spark issue on my truck. Both my tps and map sensor connectors have a little over 5 volts from 2 out of the 3 ports you probed trying to find the constant. I have no idea which one is the constant. I tested the map sensor connector just to see if maybe it was the connector. Now that I’m having the same issue in multiple connectors I’m curious if you know why I’d be getting 5 volts from more than one lead on the same connector? It seems to me that on both connectors my constant and signal wires are 5 volts and the ground may be the oddball with little to no voltage reading. I didn’t want to test resistance on either lead with 5 volts.
Great video. I cleaned my tps and tried to put it back in the correct way it came out but sometimes when I mash I get hesitation. What can I do ? I've tried different positions but didn't seem to work. Can you give some advise on this thanks
@01:33 How do we know our car power supply reference for this throttle position sensor? My toyota crown super saloon 1991 MT, 1gfe, 2.00 CC need help, please give me the information. For add information, i get 12 volt on my TPS, is it normal or what? What should i do to make it 5 volts if it's should be on that voltage.
Great video. My 2000 Honda accord v6 is idle up and down. It normally idles at about 800 rpm’s but now it is jumping from 1000 to 2000, up and down, up and down. Could the TPS be causing this? I don’t see how to remove it from my throttle body. It looks like some type of lock washer system is holding it on to the throttle bottle. Not screws or bolts. Thanks any help is appreciated.
Great video! I love the way you placed the pin into the connector. Couldn't you have placed the ground probe into the negative battery post? Or would that not be as accurate? I love your video. Thanks!!!
thanks for taking the time to help others. you explain everything very well. ive seen some of your videos in the past & there spot on. thanks again & keep them coming your the first person i go to when i need help.
All of your videos are awesome, I have learnt a lot from your videos. The RPM is jumping up and down a little while cruising at high speed, 75-80 MPH, could the TPS or transmission be the problem? I just clean the TPS and it looks super clean, but RPM is still jumping. Thanks
Yeah.. mine failed big time when I tapped on it. Thanks for helping win the fight on figuring out my headache. Now I can sleep with one eye open. R32 gtr was a popcorn machine
My 1993 F 150 started idling way to high ( no tach but probably 1400RPM ). I unplugged the TPS and the idle went to normal. I drove it around the block with it unhooked and it actually drove ok with it disconnected (?!). I take it that I need to replace the TPS but it seems crazy that it idles and accelerates pretty decent with it not hooked up.
I am so glad I found this Igrbetslly search Old jeep issues. Zip cannot thank you enough for explaining everything so thoroughly. I was stumped with why I had crank but no comms no nothing. I did finally find my TPS was like cracked open. I have the new connector and Tps but my existing wire is a small gage the new connector wiring is at least double thickness. So I decided to see if I could find if it anyone else ran into this?
When you did the second part of the test after back probing did you still have the black probe connected to the battery ground? Where did you get the green probe and where did you plug the probes in your multimeter? My multimeter only has the black and red probes.
Check the throttle body to see if there is a gap. If there is a big gap, that can be caused by carbon or wear. It can cause high idle and codes. Replace it if it's worn. It may can throw codes about the TPS. Set the sensor for mid-range of specs.
Hey man awesome video but got a question for you. When you back probed it did you have the red gator clip connected to the middle wire on plug? Also do you have a video with a 6 wire throttle control?
Thanks for the video! I tested my TPS and the output voltage at WOT was only 3.80 volts.. is that a problem? My transmission is acting weird (hard shiftings when cold).
Bout go outside and give this number a try. Just got a 950$ s10 and I personally believe these “hard shifts” are more along the lines of something fuel related, I can feel a misfire a very small one, I believe it’s the tps but I’m not no expert. Plus the truck is too old for my code reader. Giving u a like just for being cool. Hope I can figure something out without effing anything up haha
Great video...like your style...straight and to the point! I have a '91 Camaro with an LS1 engine. It has a new throttle body with new IAC & TPS. PCM threw a P0122 code which is low TPS voltage which should be around 0.5v-1v at idle up to 5v at WOT. Voltmeter read 0.13v at idle (which explains the code) and only 3.94v at WOT. Since the TB was new, the manufacturer sent me a new TPS under warranty. When tested, it was perfect...just under 1v at idle and 4.95v at WOT. A day later, the new TPS was back to the same range (0.13v at idle & 3.94v at WOT) which threw the same code P0122. Any ideas as to what could cause this voltage drop? FYI, this is a newly swapped engine. I am at a point of "crank, no start" and am troubleshooting that as well. I do have voltage at injectors and coils, spark and 58psi of fuel at the rail. Thank you!
This is a great video. I am troubleshooting an idle issue on a 2004 Honda Civic Sir 2.0. The car starts fine and within about 30 seconds the idle surges up and down from 1500 to 2500 rpm back to 1500rpm and this cycle keeps going. I get a P0113 that returns soon after I clear it. The sensor seems to test OK. I suspect an IAC but cannot get it off the throttle body, the screws are so tight. The air intake duct has a small crack where it slips onto the the throttle body that has been taped up. Could the TPS be causing this issue? Can you give me any advice on this? Ohhh, the car has been sitting 6yrs, I did put fresh fuel in it.
Hi. I've got a 2003 Montero Limited 3.8L. Twice so far (1,000 miles apart) mine has gone into a condition where it will not accelerate. It idles and starts fine, but will not go over 40mph on level road, and takes a long time to get to that speed (severel minutes). It will be fine one moment and then begin this malfunction in the middle of driving it, in town or on interstate. I do have a TPS sensor code (P2135) but also cam and crankshaft sensors codes. The timing system is fine and it doesn't jerk or do anything strange except refuse to accelerate. I can turn it off and after 20 minutes it will operate fine again. Is the the TPS sensor getting hot and then it fails?
Great video. Thank you. You set the Multimeter to Resistance / Continuity to determine which wire is Ground. Therefore I take it that you cannot set the Multimeter to DC Volts to find the ground wire by connecting the red lead to the +ve battery terminal and using the -ve lead to find which of the 2 remaining wires is Ground ( I would expect to see 12V on the M/meter when finding the ground wire). I am curious to know if you can find the ground wire this way or not and if not, why? Or is Resistance / Continuity the only way to find the ground wire. Appreciate any feedback.
You could do that, I just went with resistance so that you can also see the resistance reading of your grounding wire. Its also a little quicker since you dont have to switch the test lead on your battery :)
great video! my TPS voltage is sitting at 2.9, open throttle slowly and rises to 5.0. release throttle and back to 2.9. think this means bad tps?? again, great video, first time I've ever tested voltage on a sensor or anything like this. went great
i had checked my TPS offline of course i put 5V supply , when i rotate the throttle the voltage at signal wire moves slowly up until i get ~4.5 voltage and back down when i slowly release the throttle.looks my tps is okay right? . but when i put back the TPS in the engine.I noticed that the signal does not increasing or not giving me a reading when we press on the gas pedal while the engine is running? so i still get hesitation . can you advise your comment here. thank
I have a 2008 Kia Rio. When testing voltage on wires unplugged from the TPS, one wire reads 5.78V, a second one reads 6.65 volts. Do I have a short between the wires, or bad ECM? EDIT: With the TPS plugged in, and needle pinouts to test the wire voltage, it behaves properly with just one wire reading 5.4V, and the signal wire starting at 0.2V and increasing to 5V as I turn the throttle. But unplugged from the TPS, the signal wire reads 6.4V. The car hesitates something awful when starting from a stop or going up hills. I have to to rev high rpm (not always easy to do) and release clutch cautiously while maintaining high rpm's to get it moving without petering out. It usually does ok once at highway speeds.
I recently watched your video on testing a TPS with a multi meter. At one point you said that before the test to make sure you BACK FLOWED YOUR CONNECTOR. or something to the effect, Can you tell me what you actually said? I played it several time and couldn't make out that part,
TPS is a potentiameter circuit when 5Volt DC postive and negative is available it will give variable output but the signal reached ECU or not and it was utilised by ECU testing is also required
Hi, finally located where the problem is , in my case am getting voltage in sensor ground near connector when checked at ecu it's zero.as shown in the video can I check for ohms.can u plz let me know that will control wire has voltage if so how much. Thank you
Hi men , I recently cleaned my throttle body and map sensor on 2009 mdx but after the check engine light comes on and the idle was jumping up and down while releasing the gaspedal and also when I press the brake pedal then the rpm bounce. So I took it to mechanic and he cleared the code and relearned the tps and also did the idle procedure but still the problem is not solved. When I release the gaspedal now the rpm jump down and up again then stay between 1000 and 2000. Mechanic said it is normal but it is not normal to me and it was not doing this before cleaning. Do you think it is from the map sensor but it didn't throw any codes again. Any advice please and thank you
could you use a test light connected to negative of the battery and back probe each wire and see which is ground and swap the test light to positive of the battery to find out the feed wire.Using multimeter you could back probe each wire on back of the connector with out disconnect seeing where is ground,power feed,and signal wire.You did a good video keeping going.
I get a good ground connection on the wire harness when the key is off but only a quick beep from my meter when the key is in the on position. Is this normal?
Good video. I'm testing TPS on a 1999 Jeep GC and I have found the ground am receiving 5.17v on the other 2 wires. any clue why I am receiving the same voltage on both wires?
I LOVE PEOPLE THAT SHOW THE ACTUAL PROBLEM AND THE SOLUTION, NOT THOSE ONE WHO TALK TALK AND TALK A LOT OF CRAP , THANK YOU FOR SHOWING
YOU ARE A GODSEND.
STOP YELLING
Avon G just because he types in caps does not mean he's yelling maybe he has bad eyesight ass whole
True
(Cough..SchrodingersBox..coughcough)
Exactly I've seen videos of talk talk talk and never talk about what the video was supposed to be about.
So glad I found this video! Thank you! My intuition told me throttle position sensor initially, but advice from others was possible cma shaft sensor, Pulled codes that confirmed throttle positions sensor but not sure I can trust as this car was used when I bought it with a rebuilt hyped up racing motor. The wiring is sketchy. With that being said, having this knowledge lets me trouble shoot before buying the part! Car idles very rough when cold, and idle will increase then decrease on it's own. Slight acceleration issues as it doesn't immediately respond to pedal pressure. Runs better when warm. Idles great at higher speed. It does need exhaust running from the headers and back. These are racing headers so I'm unsure how much vacuum pressure plays a role. I have spark, but no start. In my research a no start is rare but possible. Any thoughts from others is graciously accepted :) Aware it could be timing, but want to start at the easiest point and work my way to that.
Thanks for the video! You went more in depth than some of the other videos here. Using your method I found what seems like a dead/worn spot on my tps during the transition from idle position to wot. At about 25 - 35% from idle, measuring voltage only instead of the smooth progression of increasing value, it dropped down and then shot back up continuing like it should. I experienced this during my driving but never knew what caused the problem, it felt like I would lose power at a certain point during my acceleration but at cruising speed it would be ok. I replaced the tps and I don't have that issue anymore, again, thank you for the great video. It helps when things get pointed out and then I can test it for myself to find the problem. Mahalos!
Just saw this in 2024. Thank you for this superb teaching video. I am grateful. At 67 years old, I now think I understand how the throttle position sensor works, thanks to you.
I find your videos are some of the most informative without getting overly technical with information that we don't really need to know. This helped me diagnose my tps and move on to find the real problem. Thanks brother
I second that.
Did you strip the wire when you connected the aligator clip?? is the car was it on position while you turning the cable??
Dude thanks a lot for this video. I have the "Circuit low input" code coming up on my GMC Sierra. This enabled me to check everything and put in a new throttle position sensor as well as repair a wire in an O'Reilly's auto-parts parking lot! These types of posts save people a lot of money. Thanks again!cheers bro
I second that.
What I really appreciate about your video is that you gave clear & easy instructions on how to use the DVOM & for the 1st time I totally understand how to use it for testing my TPS! Thank you 🙏🏽 sir!!!
I second that.
I knew something was wrong with the TPS but wasn't sure. If I hadn't of seen your tutorial then I would've purchased one off of ebay without being sure that was my problem. Thanks a lot for your help, your video was very informative.
Thank you The diagnostic procedure of the throttle position sensor is exactly what I need to know. Discovered that my TPS was outputting 4 1/2 Volts at idle ,closed throttle plate . Thank you again.
DAMN!
Great video gave you a like. One thing to check: Once you see the TPS has correct and smooth voltage and operation, make sure that voltage signal is getting back to the ECU. If there is a break in the wire (mice like to chew on wires) or corroded contacts, the ECU won't see the TPS voltage and that causes all sorts of problems, but modern ECUs may throw an Error Code for that condition.
This is gold and this man has skills on explaining. Thank you....p.s. I took notes.
InstaBlaster...
I just wanted you to know that you are an awesome person and thanks for taking the time to do this. Very easy and really good explanation on how and when to do the work. Have a great day and God bless you
I second that.
Your guidance is crystal clear and easy to follow. Nice job!
I second that.
Ratchets and Wrenches I find is one of the Better auto repair sites on UA-cam 👍👍👍
I just wanted to thank you bro you're a badass I want you to know that I work on cars I'm used a multimeter but you're playing spoken explanation with excellent in my understanding of the tool has increased exponentially thank you again
😊 I've watched a few of these tests. Yours is number one. Top of the list 😁
I really enjoy work on cars and have been learning a lot with your videos. thanks for sharing your knowledge amigo
Yes, very instructive and well filmed and well explained. Thank you.
Yes 🙌🏽
Now to testing ! I have a 1994 F53 460 / 7.5 engine in a motor home, and it has given me so much trouble ! Trying not to throw parts at it! I have had it running well, then it just does not want to get up and go! If I didn't like the motor home and I didn't like the 460, I would walk away and sell it! Thanks, Rick
99 F150 4.2
TPS can it be checked without being connected to the vehicle, I'm headed to Pull-A-Part Pull-A-Part to get a TPS , odometer and tach are racing up and down say I'm traveling 15mph.
Tac/Od 7k@100mph
Trans gives the impression it slipping, but in reverse it runs find
Great video! It's always nice when someone takes the time to explain a job so well. Thank you.
I second that.
Best shown i have seen on youtube. Now its all clear thanks!
I second that.
Looks like a GM ? If I'm correct! I've done this so many times on my Toyota hilux ( Tacoma) but Aussie version! I'm glad you are around! Thanks heaps and cheers from Australia 🙂👍👍👍
People giving this a thumbs down have no business even opening the hood. GREAT, simple, informative video!
i live in the Caribbean, been learning alot from your videos. Great job! i wish i can migrate and work along side you, you seem to have so much to offer when it comes to dealing with vehicles
i dont know why therr are 61 thumbs down but thats most likely why the people who put thunbs down are not running.this is a great peice of advice even a. woman can understand it... thats me...great utube guys 50 thumbs up.
3:15 : Could you please explain what "properly back rub using two needles" means? Thank you. Good work!
Yes . I'd like to know this too
'Back probe' means to push very thin probes (needles) into the connections from the outside WHILE IT'S CONNECTED TO THE TPS, and take readings from those back probes.
I have a 1996 Volvo 850T5 that stalled after code P0120. Almost got rear ended by a Mack Truck on the NJ turnpike! I changed the TPS twice. I also thought maybe the ECU was defective, so I changed that also.I cleaned the Throttle body with throttle body cleaner.. It seems that after about 25 miles the car stalls, I clear the code and then it runs for another 25 miles, until it stalls again and the code comes back. Thank you for your great Videos.
Great video, exactly the info I needed
I tested the harness like you did. I am finding that the signal pin is also showing 5v like the supply voltage. Is this normal? Trying to figure out where I went wrong, or if this is by design for my particular tps harness. I have 2001 mazda protege 2.0L
I know this is way old but I’m seeing the exact same thing on a 91 dodge dakota. Did you figure that out?
Thank you very much, it was very informative, easy to follow along and to the point. Mostly find UA-cam to bore me with talking to much or hard to follow
I replaced a TPS recently on a Ford Freestar. The closed throttle position on does not line up with the TPS. Turning it in order to install it seems like it would cause a problem.
Following your video step by step trying to find a no spark issue on my truck. Both my tps and map sensor connectors have a little over 5 volts from 2 out of the 3 ports you probed trying to find the constant. I have no idea which one is the constant. I tested the map sensor connector just to see if maybe it was the connector. Now that I’m having the same issue in multiple connectors I’m curious if you know why I’d be getting 5 volts from more than one lead on the same connector? It seems to me that on both connectors my constant and signal wires are 5 volts and the ground may be the oddball with little to no voltage reading. I didn’t want to test resistance on either lead with 5 volts.
Dude you're awesome. You actually explain things in a way that makes sense. Thank you for making these videos 🌟🤩
I second that.
Great video. I cleaned my tps and tried to put it back in the correct way it came out but sometimes when I mash I get hesitation. What can I do ? I've tried different positions but didn't seem to work. Can you give some advise on this thanks
You are so informative you put Scotty Kilmer to shame. He spends too much time bashing GM and FCA. Maybe he thinks it makes him a hero.
@01:33
How do we know our car power supply reference for this throttle position sensor?
My toyota crown super saloon 1991 MT, 1gfe, 2.00 CC need help, please give me the information.
For add information, i get 12 volt on my TPS, is it normal or what?
What should i do to make it 5 volts if it's should be on that voltage.
That tps is not 100%
it doesnt hold a steady voltage at idle, that means it shows a first sign of a worn sensor.
Can you make a video on electronic wire😊 thanks,
very useful video.
can u please mention the procedure for toyota corolla 2010 model with electronic throttle body without accelrator cable.
great clear explanation, thanks for the professional advice ...👏🏻👏🏻👏🏻
Great video. My 2000 Honda accord v6 is idle up and down. It normally idles at about 800 rpm’s but now it is jumping from 1000 to 2000, up and down, up and down. Could the TPS be causing this? I don’t see how to remove it from my throttle body. It looks like some type of lock washer system is holding it on to the throttle bottle. Not screws or bolts. Thanks any help is appreciated.
Absolutely fantastic video. Clear, concise, and easily understood. Thank you!
I second that.
I second that.
What brand and model of camera do you use my friend? Really crystal clear video.
Great video! I love the way you placed the pin into the connector. Couldn't you have placed the ground probe into the negative battery post? Or would that not be as accurate? I love your video. Thanks!!!
Great video! Looks like the TPS isn't my problem. The search continues 😅
Great video. Simple and clear. Thanks man.
Frederick Garcia np, thanks for watching.
Excellent work, you would make a good shop teacher.
thanks for taking the time to help others. you explain everything very well. ive seen some of your videos in the past & there spot on. thanks again & keep them coming your the first person i go to when i need help.
I second that.
All of your videos are awesome, I have learnt a lot from your videos. The RPM is jumping up and down a little while cruising at high speed, 75-80 MPH, could the TPS or transmission be the problem? I just clean the TPS and it looks super clean, but RPM is still jumping. Thanks
What leads you to believe it could be transmission? Maybe cam shaft sensor?
Great video. Clear and straight to the point. Thanks!!!
I second that.
Yeah.. mine failed big time when I tapped on it. Thanks for helping win the fight on figuring out my headache. Now I can sleep with one eye open. R32 gtr was a popcorn machine
Thank-you! Good and clear lesson. I know what to do!
Great video, it help me fix my sensor today.
Voltage when up and down on the idle so installed a new throttle position sensor and all is great now.
That was the best and most informative video I have seen so far in my quest in my situation. THANKS
My 1993 F 150 started idling way to high ( no tach but probably 1400RPM ). I unplugged the TPS and the idle went to normal. I drove it around the block with it unhooked and it actually drove ok with it disconnected (?!). I take it that I need to replace the TPS but it seems crazy that it idles and accelerates pretty decent with it not hooked up.
I am so glad I found this Igrbetslly search Old jeep issues. Zip cannot thank you enough for explaining everything so thoroughly. I was stumped with why I had crank but no comms no nothing. I did finally find my TPS was like cracked open.
I have the new connector and Tps but my existing wire is a small gage the new connector wiring is at least double thickness.
So I decided to see if I could find if it anyone else ran into this?
When you did the second part of the test after back probing did you still have the black probe connected to the battery ground? Where did you get the green probe and where did you plug the probes in your multimeter? My multimeter only has the black and red probes.
Those were just alligator clips. He put the the ground on the ground wire and the red lead to the middle computer wire.
Check the throttle body to see if there is a gap. If there is a big gap, that can be caused by carbon or wear. It can cause high idle and codes. Replace it if it's worn. It may can throw codes about the TPS. Set the sensor for mid-range of specs.
What do you mean gap? Gap in between throttle body and motor?
Great video. Simple and clear.
Hey man awesome video but got a question for you. When you back probed it did you have the red gator clip connected to the middle wire on plug? Also do you have a video with a 6 wire throttle control?
Thanks for the video! I tested my TPS and the output voltage at WOT was only 3.80 volts.. is that a problem? My transmission is acting weird (hard shiftings when cold).
Bout go outside and give this number a try. Just got a 950$ s10 and I personally believe these “hard shifts” are more along the lines of something fuel related, I can feel a misfire a very small one, I believe it’s the tps but I’m not no expert. Plus the truck is too old for my code reader. Giving u a like just for being cool. Hope I can figure something out without effing anything up haha
Great video....well spoken and to the point! Thanks.
Thank fox for an excellent video, question what about the 4 wires tps how to test the 4th wire
Do you have to use the groung on the tps or can you use any ground and what does it mean if the volts. Wont go up or down
Great video...like your style...straight and to the point! I have a '91 Camaro with an LS1 engine. It has a new throttle body with new IAC & TPS. PCM threw a P0122 code which is low TPS voltage which should be around 0.5v-1v at idle up to 5v at WOT. Voltmeter read 0.13v at idle (which explains the code) and only 3.94v at WOT. Since the TB was new, the manufacturer sent me a new TPS under warranty. When tested, it was perfect...just under 1v at idle and 4.95v at WOT. A day later, the new TPS was back to the same range (0.13v at idle & 3.94v at WOT) which threw the same code P0122. Any ideas as to what could cause this voltage drop? FYI, this is a newly swapped engine. I am at a point of "crank, no start" and am troubleshooting that as well. I do have voltage at injectors and coils, spark and 58psi of fuel at the rail. Thank you!
So at the 3:21 mark. You backed probe the the ground wire and the signal wire directly from the DVOM. Thus excluding the 5v supply wire.
that's the way you test it. the 5v supplies power to the tps, you want to test the return voltage.
Great Demo! I'm on my way to get a multi-meter right now.
Roderic Fields they are a must for any serious DIY'er. thanks for watching. cheers
This is a great video. I am troubleshooting an idle issue on a 2004 Honda Civic Sir 2.0. The car starts fine and within about 30 seconds the idle surges up and down from 1500 to 2500 rpm back to 1500rpm and this cycle keeps going. I get a P0113 that returns soon after I clear it. The sensor seems to test OK. I suspect an IAC but cannot get it off the throttle body, the screws are so tight. The air intake duct has a small crack where it slips onto the the throttle body that has been taped up. Could the TPS be causing this issue? Can you give me any advice on this? Ohhh, the car has been sitting 6yrs, I did put fresh fuel in it.
Great info! Is this something you can also see using live data on your new Autel 708?
Thank you, very informative and to the point.
Great explanation! Thanks for the video.
Hi. I've got a 2003 Montero Limited 3.8L. Twice so far (1,000 miles apart) mine has gone into a condition where it will not accelerate. It idles and starts fine, but will not go over 40mph on level road, and takes a long time to get to that speed (severel minutes). It will be fine one moment and then begin this malfunction in the middle of driving it, in town or on interstate. I do have a TPS sensor code (P2135) but also cam and crankshaft sensors codes. The timing system is fine and it doesn't jerk or do anything strange except refuse to accelerate. I can turn it off and after 20 minutes it will operate fine again. Is the the TPS sensor getting hot and then it fails?
Great video. Thank you.
You set the Multimeter to Resistance / Continuity to determine which wire is Ground. Therefore I take it that you cannot set the Multimeter to DC Volts to find the ground wire by connecting the red lead to the +ve battery terminal and using the -ve lead to find which of the 2 remaining wires is Ground ( I would expect to see 12V on the M/meter when finding the ground wire). I am curious to know if you can find the ground wire this way or not and if not, why? Or is Resistance / Continuity the only way to find the ground wire. Appreciate any feedback.
You could do that, I just went with resistance so that you can also see the resistance reading of your grounding wire. Its also a little quicker since you dont have to switch the test lead on your battery :)
great video! my TPS voltage is sitting at 2.9, open throttle slowly and rises to 5.0. release throttle and back to 2.9. think this means bad tps?? again, great video, first time I've ever tested voltage on a sensor or anything like this. went great
i had checked my TPS offline of course i put 5V supply , when i rotate the throttle
the voltage at signal wire moves slowly up until i get ~4.5 voltage and back down
when i slowly release the throttle.looks my tps is okay right? . but when i put back the TPS in the engine.I noticed that
the signal does not increasing or not giving me a reading when we press on the gas pedal while the engine is running? so i still get hesitation . can you advise your comment here. thank
I learn a lot from your videos. Great instruction thanks.
I second that.
I have a 2008 Kia Rio. When testing voltage on wires unplugged from the TPS, one wire reads 5.78V, a second one reads 6.65 volts. Do I have a short between the wires, or bad ECM?
EDIT: With the TPS plugged in, and needle pinouts to test the wire voltage, it behaves properly with just one wire reading 5.4V, and the signal wire starting at 0.2V and increasing to 5V as I turn the throttle. But unplugged from the TPS, the signal wire reads 6.4V.
The car hesitates something awful when starting from a stop or going up hills. I have to to rev high rpm (not always easy to do) and release clutch cautiously while maintaining high rpm's to get it moving without petering out. It usually does ok once at highway speeds.
I recently watched your video on testing a TPS with a multi meter. At one point you said that before the test to make sure you BACK FLOWED YOUR CONNECTOR. or something to the effect, Can you tell me what you actually said? I played it several time and couldn't make out that part,
Thanks for the help video was clear into the point I really appreciate it I got it running
TPS is a potentiameter circuit when 5Volt DC postive and negative is available it will give variable output but the signal reached ECU or not and it was utilised by ECU testing is also required
In my case mine has 2 connectors with 3 wires running to each connector (6 in total) do they perform the same action and can they be tested the same?
Will this application work on a 89 jeep with tps.
Thanks for the video. Its been so useful.
you cant get a better explination, great job..#1
Hi, finally located where the problem is , in my case am getting voltage in sensor ground near connector when checked at ecu it's zero.as shown in the video can I check for ohms.can u plz let me know that will control wire has voltage if so how much. Thank you
Do you know what causes idle rpm increase, goes up to 1.5k, when pressing the brake pedal multiple times in a row?
I did this test and the position sensor turned out to be good. Can it be a dirty or bad throttle body thats causing a code p0122?
I am a diy guy. Very very good thank you so much. Take care stay well
can we do this test on all sensors such as map and maf , iat ??
Hi men , I recently cleaned my throttle body and map sensor on 2009 mdx but after the check engine light comes on and the idle was jumping up and down while releasing the gaspedal and also when I press the brake pedal then the rpm bounce. So I took it to mechanic and he cleared the code and relearned the tps and also did the idle procedure but still the problem is not solved. When I release the gaspedal now the rpm jump down and up again then stay between 1000 and 2000. Mechanic said it is normal but it is not normal to me and it was not doing this before cleaning. Do you think it is from the map sensor but it didn't throw any codes again. Any advice please and thank you
could you use a test light connected to negative of the battery and back probe each wire and see which is ground and swap the test light to positive of the battery to find out the feed wire.Using multimeter you could back probe each wire on back of the connector with out disconnect seeing where is ground,power feed,and signal wire.You did a good video keeping going.
thank you so much for this helpful information , how can we contact you if we have questions?
I get a good ground connection on the wire harness when the key is off but only a quick beep from my meter when the key is in the on position. Is this normal?
will the first few steps of identifying wires tell me if my wires are properly insulated and not grouned, shorted or cut?
Good video. I'm testing TPS on a 1999 Jeep GC and I have found the ground am receiving 5.17v on the other 2 wires. any clue why I am receiving the same voltage on both wires?
Ronald Church if youre reading only 5 volts on the ground, there is corrosion somewhere in that line
Can you please give a link on the multimeter that you’re using so I could just copy exactly how you’re testing that throttlebody?
do you have a video on testing TPS that don't use throttle cable control on the throttle body but have a TB motor ??
So you stuck two needles in the back of your connectors? would sewing needles work?