Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work.. Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire nippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits snugly inside whatever port your spaying thru. You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes. (Like idle circuits) I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense.
that is the fuel cut off switch at 9:13 that you are wanting to get rid of, which I wouldn't do. for being a small engine mechanic, not knowing what that was kinda scared me.
What would make you think a solenoid valve on the bottom of a gasoline float bowl would be a low oil cut-off? I think breathing that old gas fumes may have messed you up. Those fuel cut-off solenoids work perfectly, it is just they are the lowest thing in carb so all the gunk settles on them. Just extend the plunger, remove the O-ring and clean the plunger with some carb clean and a soft (brass) brush. When you are done you can use a 9volt battery or any source of 12 volts to test it. It is a very simple and very reliable design which is why it is used everywhere, even on "CHONDA" generators. Learn how things are designed and why before you start modifying. Low-speed/idle circuits will of course have the smallest diameter jets so they are usually the problem when something runs but not well. Gently applying "choke" while the engine is running will tell you a low speed/idle circuit is bad if you can make it run well on choke.
There are many forms of low oil cut off switches, with this setup I didn't realize that an anti backfire could work without a constant 12v supply. Cutting off an anti backfire solenoid isn't the end of the world which is why I did it to eliminate a factor.
@@EllisMowersandmore, You could have just tested it with a 12volt supply. It is spring-loaded in the "normally closed" position when the charging coil is energized by spinning the flywheel electricity is produced causing the electromagnet to draw the plunger into the body of the switch. The reverse happens when electricity is removed. After putting myself through high school and college as an auto mechanic, then earning my Mechanical Engineering degree, and working for HONDA R&D for decades, I am now retired at 65 years old and was just trying to help you. Good luck. My advice to you is not to re-engineer until you completely understand.
@@benkanobe7500 I appreciate the feedback, I learned how to test them now! I'm just used to the de facto way they do them on riders when they're tied to the key switch and 12v battery and didn't know an anti backfire solenoid setup could be done like that without a constant 12v supply. Always learning something new!
I have a EM6500SX with a similar carburetor. I was trying to learn about the choke. My choke failed to come on today after pulling the ring out and would not start until i "helped" the choke to the on position.
Great job. I am glad there is some one else out there that makes goofy mistakes along the way. I always get the whoosie whats it mixed up with the thingy and then struggle the rest of the way. See that is my knowledge. Thanks for the video and tutorial.
WOW, that Honda was not acting like a Honda should be. Those Honda generators go for big money, especially the high watt ones! I would say its running good enough to use, just don't turn on the low idle, cause thats still a mess lol. Alright Ellis, thank you for sharing this, you know I love hanging out with you in the shop, doing some wrenching.
Really it would be best if you would ware safety glasses, yea I’m a old diesel mechanic and retired with two good eyes Safety glasses are for sure eye saver Please 🙏
The black plastic screw comes out on top of carb and lets you pick out the top plastic jet. If still starving for gas get a pilot jet drill bit set and go one size bigger. As these engines break in they need more fuel. But it might just have some sediment in it try cleaning that jet first of course.
Hi Ellis, I am working on the exact carb right now and you did not show on the video HOW you fixed the choke problem. I am experiencing the exact same issue. Can you reply and let me know. THANKS!
Sure thing you probably need to clean the top jet on the carb which is behind a plastic screw if I remember correctly. It's a black plastic piece you can pry up with a small screwdriver.
Seems crazy to me someone spends pennies on the dollar for this and won't spend a few more $$ for battery/charge, air filter, etc. Small things add lots of value, even if he's flipping it.
You're right, I didn't think about adjusting the idle screw or I would have taken the 2 minutes to do that. Long days make me forget the simplest things sometimes. With his method of flipping he probably got the same price regardless.
i bought a used Honda Gen in a garage sale and using this video to help me maintenance the carb and get it started. very helpful thank you.
Keep this trick I devised years ago for the future when you do carbutator work..
Try this... Heat the plastic tube from the carb cleaner spray with a lighter (about 1/4-1/2 inch from the end. Then pull on each end of the tube to stretch it. This makes the outer/inner tube diameter smaller and more of a pin point. When the melted plastic solidifies, use small wire nippers or nail clippers to snip the tube at the smallest diameter that still provides flow when spraying. The cleaner comes out like a pin point pressure washer and the shrunken plastic tube end fits snugly inside whatever port your spaying thru.
You can also do the same to create 90 degree angles in the plastic tube to spray sideways inside long venturi tubes. (Like idle circuits)
I used to make/keep custom tubes around for these situations. Hope this makes sense.
It does. Thanks for the tip!
that is the fuel cut off switch at 9:13 that you are wanting to get rid of, which I wouldn't do. for being a small engine mechanic, not knowing what that was kinda scared me.
What would make you think a solenoid valve on the bottom of a gasoline float bowl would be a low oil cut-off? I think breathing that old gas fumes may have messed you up. Those fuel cut-off solenoids work perfectly, it is just they are the lowest thing in carb so all the gunk settles on them. Just extend the plunger, remove the O-ring and clean the plunger with some carb clean and a soft (brass) brush. When you are done you can use a 9volt battery or any source of 12 volts to test it. It is a very simple and very reliable design which is why it is used everywhere, even on "CHONDA" generators. Learn how things are designed and why before you start modifying. Low-speed/idle circuits will of course have the smallest diameter jets so they are usually the problem when something runs but not well. Gently applying "choke" while the engine is running will tell you a low speed/idle circuit is bad if you can make it run well on choke.
There are many forms of low oil cut off switches, with this setup I didn't realize that an anti backfire could work without a constant 12v supply. Cutting off an anti backfire solenoid isn't the end of the world which is why I did it to eliminate a factor.
@@EllisMowersandmore, You could have just tested it with a 12volt supply. It is spring-loaded in the "normally closed" position when the charging coil is energized by spinning the flywheel electricity is produced causing the electromagnet to draw the plunger into the body of the switch. The reverse happens when electricity is removed. After putting myself through high school and college as an auto mechanic, then earning my Mechanical Engineering degree, and working for HONDA R&D for decades, I am now retired at 65 years old and was just trying to help you. Good luck. My advice to you is not to re-engineer until you completely understand.
@@benkanobe7500 I appreciate the feedback, I learned how to test them now! I'm just used to the de facto way they do them on riders when they're tied to the key switch and 12v battery and didn't know an anti backfire solenoid setup could be done like that without a constant 12v supply. Always learning something new!
I'm watching this 2 days after dealing with the same exact carb setup. That choke system was the worst.
Would check that the idle set screw is adjusted properly.
I agree
I have a EM6500SX with a similar carburetor. I was trying to learn about the choke. My choke failed to come on today after pulling the ring out and would not start until i "helped" the choke to the on position.
You need a Tea strainer for the small parts in your ultrasonic cleaner. Works well.
Tea basket
Great job. I am glad there is some one else out there that makes goofy mistakes along the way. I always get the whoosie whats it mixed up with the thingy and then struggle the rest of the way. See that is my knowledge. Thanks for the video and tutorial.
So the exact problem I am stuck at, choke , throttle linkage. You didn't show how or what you ended up doing.
Jeez
Auto throttle is only used in certain situations and the jenny has to be warmed up already
I hope u don't do this for a living. First time working on a generator?
That is not a low oil switch you cut off ! That is to shut the fuel flow off to the main jet when you shut engine off to keep it from back firing !
WOW, that Honda was not acting like a Honda should be. Those Honda generators go for big money, especially the high watt ones! I would say its running good enough to use, just don't turn on the low idle, cause thats still a mess lol. Alright Ellis, thank you for sharing this, you know I love hanging out with you in the shop, doing some wrenching.
Don't understand. The low idle just places the engine on idle when there is no load... seems to be doing what it is supposed to.
Priceless.....!!!
Thank u....
Generators sit till someone needs them, then they don't work. Always carb at least.
how exactly can you tell the gasoline is "stale"? I am curious please be as descript as possible.
Usually by smell. Also it will have a tint to it that makes it look reddish yellow instead of clear.
@@EllisMowersandmore ty I did not know.
Really it would be best if you would ware safety glasses, yea I’m a old diesel mechanic and retired with two good eyes
Safety glasses are for sure eye saver
Please 🙏
Those tanks rust really bad, have to vinegar every one of them and clean carb plus cut off valve and hose with filter 😊
Casey I think your videos 📹 are Fantastic Fantastic Fantastic!!!!
Great repair casey
I have the same generator. Cleaned carb and it fired up, but as soon as I plug something in, the generator dies….
The black plastic screw comes out on top of carb and lets you pick out the top plastic jet. If still starving for gas get a pilot jet drill bit set and go one size bigger. As these engines break in they need more fuel. But it might just have some sediment in it try cleaning that jet first of course.
Hi Ellis, I am working on the exact carb right now and you did not show on the video HOW you fixed the choke problem. I am experiencing the exact same issue. Can you reply and let me know.
THANKS!
Sure thing you probably need to clean the top jet on the carb which is behind a plastic screw if I remember correctly. It's a black plastic piece you can pry up with a small screwdriver.
Idle circuit in the carb needs cleaning
Seems crazy to me someone spends pennies on the dollar for this and won't spend a few more $$ for battery/charge, air filter, etc. Small things add lots of value, even if he's flipping it.
You're right, I didn't think about adjusting the idle screw or I would have taken the 2 minutes to do that. Long days make me forget the simplest things sometimes. With his method of flipping he probably got the same price regardless.
It was the stuck cable all along. Should have checked that first.