The Massey Harris Pony Runs Again! Clutch and Regulator repairs (pt4)
Вставка
- Опубліковано 21 сер 2024
- In this video I put the regulator back together, replace the clutch pilot bearing, put the engine all back together and get the 812 Pony tractor running again. I hope you enjoy!
Love the sound of her engine - you have done so much work to have her go again. Bravo!!!
Thank you very much!
Yeah changing gears - be easy on the shifter and wait for the syncro-gears to allow the shift to go in or that is what happens you're chewing up the syncros, You might have to do what is called double clutching to aid your shifting
But what you are hearing and why its grinding is the syncro gears are worn and - the transmission will need to be rebuilt with new syncro-gears, try and study up on how a manual transmission works, to get a better understanding. It is a very big job to do - I'd ask around to mechanic shops whether or not parts would be available.
Thanks for the advice. I was noticing the other day when I was using it that if the engine was turning at the proper idling speed and I waited a few seconds with the clutch disengaged it shifted fine. Asides from bearings the only parts that are available are second hand ones, at least I’ve never seen new transmission parts for this tractor. Would it even have syncro-gears though? It’s an unsynchronized transmission.
It is going to be repaired properly at some point when I have another tractor to do it’s work during the repair.
@@toolreviewsandrestorations
Here's another thing if you need to adjust to help the idle/ the timing may be to advanced. Base timing should be about 8 to 12 degrees advanced - 10degrees is usually the sweet spot , but there's a catch - if you choose to retard the timing- 1 you'll lose power -2 you'll put more heat stress to the head assembly so you don't want to go to far, / It can help give fine tuning in helping control the idle if you can't control the idle via throttle valve. you would need a timing light to properly set the timing, via connecting the inductor sensor to the #1 spark plug which is the one closest to the fan and connect the positive and negative power lines to the battery, next Loosen the collar on the base of the distributor and rotate the unit. Now this has to be done while the engine is running. There should be a dial indicator on the crankshaft with markings on the crankshaft pulley in degrees -this is where you set the timing as the number 1 spark plug fires.
If you go advanced then it too will change the idle to be higher, but on the other side of the coin you'll again lose power and under load the engine will ping, this is called predetination which too can be hard on engines, so you want to try and stay away from this. Another thing that needs fine tuning is your points - the gap needs setting too as well. This is called dwell and also can affect timing - too little gap and hard starting will result - too large a gap and same thing hard starting will happen. 7 to 16 thousands I think is the sweet spot. you need a feeler gauge or if you don't have one you can use a business card of some sort to get a rough idea. But all in all RPM's of the engine should be set to roughly to 600 to 750.
I must say it's been awhile since I worked on this type of engine going back to the days of my Volvo 144 with the B20B engine.
@@toolreviewsandrestorations It should have syncro-gears but how far back is this tractors age going - I'm guessing about the 1970s as the ignition system used was points and condenser type but the charging system being a generator type tells me it might be going back to the 1950s as cars started to have alternators in the 1960s.
Thank you for all the advice. It does idle fine but I don’t always remember to push the throttle all the way back to the idling position. It might still need the timing adjusted but the points are set correctly. The tractor is from 1952. The transmission is pretty simple, not many parts in it that’s why I’m not sure if it has syncro gears. I’ll have to consult the manual.
No these tractors don't have synchronized gear boxes. None of the old Massey farm tractors did. Actually I don't believe any USA/Canada made tractors did. Trying to shift it like a synchro trans will break stuff in short order. You have to be pretty much stopped or it will just grind. The only way to shift a non synchro trans on these old tractors while moving is double clutching. Since a Pony maxes out at like 8mph If I recall correctly, it's basically pointless to shift while moving. Just stop completely then pick your gear.
that was the part no.4 that bearing most likely don't exist anymore U have match up 2 the same bearing 😊😊 OMG 8 3O 2O23
when U have the tools 2 do the work yourself it will save U from going 2 the machine shop everytime the clutch is better than it was U might be able 2 adjust the clutch 2 get it better most of the older tractors grind gears some as long it's not bad the last old I got on was the same way I would leave the 12 volt starter on it ,it turns the engine over faster and it starts faster 😊😊 OMG 8 3O 2O23
Yes, the clutch is better. I kept this tractor as a 6v tractor because that was what it was originally and the 6v generator and tension regulator work fine. It wasn’t too hard to find the correct 6v starter motor. Besides, after thinking about it I don’t think the motor that came with it was a 12v because it did start on the 6v battery in the beginning, it was just broken
hello Andrew... thanks for sharing your restauration of the Massey Harris. I'm also restauring (my son actually) a Massey Harris but we are stuck. We tried to remove the clutch rotator.... but it is not clear how to do it safely. Can you give some information about is ? thx, Ludwig.
When you say clutch rotator which part are you referring to? What exactly is the difficulty you are having?
ok we managed to separated the pieces. thanks anyway...@@toolreviewsandrestorations
I think I may have found out about something else too - that you must have leaded fuel to run these old engines, so a leaded additive must be added to the fuel as there is no leaded gasoline anymore. keep that in mind...
I do add an additive that supposedly is supposed to lubricate the valves but I’m not sure it’s entirely necessary. I’m sure that adding a lead additive would be recommended but the thing is it’s a working tractor and it needs to run in just regular gasoline that comes out of the pump. Either or it’s been running fine without a lead additive
@@toolreviewsandrestorationsLove ur videos on Ur Pony!!! I have 3 Pony’s and one in particular has been giving Me trouble. Got it a year ago and first couple days ran well then started cutting off as it ran. Then got to the point it wouldnt start.
I have put new plugs, wires, points, condenser, and rebuilt carb and still it will turn over and over but won’t start🙈
U seem incredibly smart at mechanics so thought I would ask U!!! Keep putting out Great Content!!!
@Jasonlink thanks for watching! Do you know if your getting fuel to the carburetor? One of the things I had to do to my pony almost right away was change the fuel pump diaphragm. Otherwise, how are you trying to start it? I find mine likes to start from cold with the choke on and the throttle in the idle position. Is power getting from the battery to the starting solenoid?
the old cork gaskets 😮😮 aren't much because they leak they draw up and won't hold 2 the surface U are better off 2 use the paper gaskets still use gasket sealer on both sides U would think 🤔😮 by now there would better gaskets 4 that the rubber gaskets W the metal tabs are better U have 2 find a bearing company that carry them and match them up 😊😊OMG 2 14 2O24
the cork gaskets aren't no good because they Leak U are better off 2 get the rubber gaskets W the metal tabs they better 4 the oil pan water pump and valve cover 😊😊 OMG 8 3O 2O23
I would have but they don’t exist, my only option was to make my own gaskets. The original gaskets were cork
I would look and if U can find another distributor that will work 4 that engine and U can get parts 4 alot of the old tractors didn't have much oil pressure 2 them U might be able 2 turn the oil pressure up on the oil pump if not I would look and see about a over haul kit 4 the oil pump 😊😊 OMG 8 3O 2O23
For now the distributor works, when it stops working I’ll either just change the whole thing or try and find the parts I couldn’t find before. I haven’t looked at the oil pressure yet but I think there’s a screen in the system that might be clogged. Thanks for watching and commenting!