Mopar Carter Thermoquad tuning hints
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- Опубліковано 10 лип 2024
- Tuning/adjustment tips for a TQ. Think of the back flap or air door like a Quick Fuel Adjustable vacuum secondary's. The back barrels work mechanically, while the flap is opened by vacuum.
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The Thermoquads were used in Police Intercepters where they would idle beside the road with A/C running full blast on hot summer days, and vapor lock as the fuel in the bowls boiled. The Thermoquad did not vapor lock. The screw in the middle on the metering rod bar adjust mixture only at full throttle. The metering rod assembly is sucked down under vacuum at idle and part throttle. When you floor it, the vacuum is reduced, the metering rods pop up against that screw. As the plastic center section aged it became brittle. With modern plastics this would be a great carb. Those secondaries are HUGE.
“Police Interceptor” is a Ford term, never used by Chrysler Corporation.
I've used and rebuilt TONS of these carbs and even have one on my daily driver '87 Gran Fury. I have never seen or come across a brittle or cracked middle section except when it's broken by amateur idiots trying to pry it apart without removing the 2 airhorn screws. I have had the jet wells leak or come loose but just re-epoxied them. Also 'rebuilders' don't use the proper 'X' ring seals to the bowl.
Good vid👍 a friend of mine just showed me how to adjust the accelerated pump action to the proper height and after having done so the TQ really woke up and had a noticeably stronger secondary response.
Nice 👍
Thanks for the info. I was wondering why I was sometimes getting a slight lean bog on hard acceleration and also how to adjust (non idle) fuel mixture. I'll test this out tomorrow.
That helps. The 79 360 i put in my old truck is probably going to need a little attention. First fire tells me it needs a cleaning at the very least.
I have one on my Travelall - Trouble shooting some bog and a bit of misfire on acceleration, as well as under a bit of a load/uphill. I tightened down the rear flap a ton.. see a bit of improvement but still am getting the misfire. No air leaks anywhere - maybe I'm still running lean.
Just installed one in my truck. Thanks. Hope to tune it to run 1/4 mile quicker than the holley
I''m following your truck ….. and the valiant :)
Thanks Tim
Chrysler Corporation began using the Carter AVS in 1968. The Carter Competition Series TQ appeared in 1969, and began use on production cars in 1971. Various versions of the carb were used from the original 6xxx series carbs, to the later 9xxx series carbs, and finally the Carter SuperQuad, which was an aftermarket offering with somewhat lean calibration and an integral electric choke. The dashpot is not only for “choke pulloff”, as it allows free play of the secondary air valve. That also must be adjusted properly in order for the secondaries to operate. I have over 2 dozen Thermoquads that I have collected over the last 30 years or so, most of them being the early 6xxx series. They are incredibly tuneable, much like a QuadraJet, and you aren’t limited to a factory iron manifold to run one. I have run these carbs deep into the 11s on single plane M1 manifolds, and I set them up to be as responsive as EFI back in the day.
There are several TQ's on factory cast intakes well into the 10's in stock eliminator.
@@318willrun Yeah no kidding. Nobody said there wasn’t. You stated they ran best on a factory iron manifold. That isn’t the case.
@@Joesmusclecargarage Some have ran a pair of TQ's on tunnel rams. Whatever works !!!! They are good carbs!!!! 👍
@@318willrun Yep. I’ve seen them on tunnel rams and cross rams. I love them. I was big into Mopars back in the day. Over a dozen 67-69 Darts, 68-69 Chargers, 69 Road Runner, 67 GTX, 68 Formula S, etc. Ran a 63 Dart for about 20 years. 10.60 footbrake, iron head 360….back when most people considered 10s “fast” 😂
Hahaha. Yeah, I used to collect them. I probably have a couple hundred of 'em, but probably over 1/2 are lean-burn carbs. Great carbs. I can't believe someone doesn't remanufacture the jets and 3-step rods
There was a 318 "Denver Package" that had the 360 heads, intake, and exhaust manifolds, and the Thermoquad, I think offered back in the '70's and early '80's. I think, not sure, it was not offered everywhere, just in the high altitude areas.
Nice combo's! I've actually had a factory 318 4bbl police car. I also drove a 2 door Volare that had a factory 318 4bbl in Loveland, Colorado. And I've seen several on Maxi Vans.
That was the normal police package engine in the early to mid '80's before they used QJ's. The only 'Denver' thing was a high altitude calibrated carb. Nothing special about the engine.
@@318willrun The 'cop' package cars and engines in the '80's were nothing more than durability packages more than performance. Double roller timing chains, oil coolers etc. The 360 heads were worse than the later 318 'fast burn' heart shaped swirl chambers adopted from the 2.2 technology. The 360 never got those and had the 1950's open wedge chambers. The 2bbl 318 recommended premium fuel because of the chambers and increased compression. The cop engines had an abysmal 8:1 compression and lousy combustion chamber squish and quench design which was more prone to knock than the afore mentioned 2bbl.
mine has an issue going dead rich, is my air door too tight, opening then slamming shut? its at near wide open throttle.
The Gas Tap. If the carb is to big for the engine that can happen. That big air valve will just turn into a choke and flood the engine. ( thermo- bog) !
It's not too big for your 360 in your truck. 318's came from the factory with TQ's, and ran perfect. I've used them on 318's, 340's, and 360's. Understanding, adjusting and fine tuning will take some time if it's your first TQ to mess with. Get them right and they are one of the best, ask the stock eliminator guys
I have a 74 Charger 360 all stock with original TQ. Car will bog and sometimes fully stall when applying the slightest amount of pedal before fully warmed up, and especially when going uphill before fully warmed up. Once fully warm, runs fine, no bog or stall uphill or down! Any help would be appreciated.
Sounds lean. Check the choke setting first.
@@318willrun Also try advancing the timing. Helped with mine🙂
Hi there, I have the same TQ, but I do not know how to connect the vacuum advance of the distribuitor, just 4 ports ! can you tell me what to do? I tried to connect at the rear port but does not work. Regards from México City.
best thing to do is start it and let it idle. Unplug the small vacuum ports and if it's sucking at idle using your finger, then you know NOT to use that one. IF it isn't sucking at idle, then pick it up off idle and see if it starts to suck. If so, then plug the vacuum advance into that port.
i have a 1993 dodge Dakota with the 318 I'm looken a good carboraitor what would be the best now days to get for mopar and intake i was told a single plan intake what is the best carboraitor to cool the gas by 20 percent like the one you have in the video I'm looken for more horsepower and better top end performance
best intake for that magnum engine would probably be the Edelbrock RPM. You'll need an electric fuel pump to deliver the fuel unless you are getting in to the front of the engine.
I got tired of messing with thermoquads on my 383 in my old powerwagon. I just replaced it with an old spreadbore holley and the truck runs 3 times better!
Then you weren’t messing with the TQ “properly”.
@@Joesmusclecargarage Agreed. Anybody that can't tune or calibrate a carb (like the TQ) eventually always fall back to a .....Holley. Nothing more than a mid '50's design fuel dump any hack can change jets on, power valve or vacuum springs. So because they can't figure it out they knock it. The TQ IS the pinnacle of carburetor evolution. The TQ is so tunable most can't figure it out or get it right. I had a 1979 300 that I 'super-tuned' the TQ on and it was just about like fuel injection.
i have one on a 1977 Sportsman rv with a 440, I rebuilt it and tried to tune. (First time) Now the RV will start and idle fine when warm. But when you try to drive it stalls and dies. Can you please give me any tip, suggestions? Would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
almost sounds like a vacuum leak someplace. Also, look at the accelerator pump to make sure it's doing it's job. Glad you tried it !!!!
I have this one when I accelerate it sounds like it’s getting too much air and it turns off
it's most likely what is happening, too much air.
If you are talking about WOT acceleration, and you think it's in the secondaries, 1st look to make sure someone hasn't forgotten to replace the flat vertical plate in the secondary bores. 2nd, you can tighten the secondary air door spring tension. You might want to also check the choke pulloff to make sure it's holding vacuum.
Is it better to get rid of leanburn system?
Yes, I think so
I wanted to put a Qaudrajet on my 69 318 d100 for fuel efficiency.
This might be a better option.....which one would you choose?
Do they still have parts around for the thermoquad?
there basically the same carb if you look at them from the underside. Actually, in the 80's the QJ was used on the small block dodges in some applications from the factory.
Now I've seen when I'm surprised how similar is to my Holly Street Demon
I have a thermo quad that has some sort of a 1 wire solenoid on the bottom back
yes, the newer TQ's has a ton of vacuum spouts and 1 wire solenoid and the such.
Is the solenoid needed to function if so where would I need to power it from
@@timgiesin4025 to be truthful, I'm not sure what it's function is, I'd have to look it up. I think it will run fine without it. I have had those type of TQ's in the past and I don't remember plugging them in.
can't i just use the fule pump that is in the truck now
way too much pressure for a carb. And, i'm not sure the trucks pump would last with a regulator. You only want about 6 psi for a carburetor.
In all reality I've seen all carburetor types and brands bog , hesitate , spudder etc. when not properly tuned for a particular engine build .
.... the only carb that punishes you for going to WOT.... (Freiburger)
They can work good on a 440, but very few jet options, hard to tune, leak prone, and in general they suck!
That’s mostly all on the turner like he said and over tightening is what will cause them to warp and leak
Sounds like you don’t know how to work on them. Thanks for making it public though! 👍
For somebody like you, I recommend a Holley. Maybe a double pumper. You're definitely a Holley guy. BTW, there are as many jet options as you need. Primary metering enrichment is controlled firstly by the metering rods, then jet size and the intersectionality of BOTH. There is much more versatility in tunability than just a 'jet' like you're thinking of in terms of a Holley. Everything you say from 'very few jet options' shows you don't know what you're talking about.