Thanks for sharing this. I couldn't figure out how to get it working so i shifted for a while, 1 2 3 and 3 2 1. Your other video helped me get it sorted and this'ne helps adjust it. I have to do a little more adjusting but i'm almost squared away.
Cool factory Holley spreadbore. I assume that's a 440? I bought a 440 from a junkyard in the 90s that came out of a '73 Dodge Monaco and it had a steel crank and that type of Holley (and not a Thermoquad), which baffled me. I also bought a 400HP from a retired '72 Fury I police car and it had no EGR and a Thermoquad (rare intake manifold!), with the ultra heavy main bearing webs and a cast crank. Thanks for educating these internet newbies to MoPar on the throttle cable function and setup!! :D
There is a third type of adjustment. Some have adjustment down by the transmission kick-down lever. There is a metal block that pins into the hole in the lever. The rod from the throttle comes down and slips through a hole in the metal block. There is a bolt that is tightened to lock the rod in that position. So, loosen the bolt on the block, have someone push the throttle all the way back (full open throttle - ENGINE OFF). Or you may tie the throttle open with a piece of wire. Adjust the lever to be almost all the way back, tighten the bolt. Now check by having someone step on the throttle pedal and observe movement of the kick-down lever.
Thank you so much! For some reason, throttle and linkage is always a pain in the butt to find diagrams for. I'm rebuilding my 74 challenger right now and this is gonna help majorly. Lifesaver.
Great explanation on that linkage set up; and great demonstration with your example engine with carb throttle and kick down linkage hooked up as its designed. I now know better on how to check my slant 6 TF 727 kick down set up for any excessive play.
Big thanks for showing the linkage actuation down on the transmission. I've only seen videos on adjusting it at the carb, not what it should be doing at the trans.
Thank you,,Thank you,,I've looked and asked everyone no one had any idea. NOW they'll all have to ASK me as you told me EVERYTHING I need to know about MOPAR kick downs,,,LOL,,,,THANKS
That was a great explanation, the ford Aod is the same way if u run it without the kick down cable hooked up, may as well start looking for another one because it is fixing to go bad
Me going from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel and all of sudden the damn rod at the top pivot will not come up to where it should be. Haven't tried loosening the adj yet, but.
Best video I’ve found so far! However… I’m worried that my rod is stopping the lever from getting enough return in the other direction (toward the engine). When the lever stops (idle) , should there be any more room in moving it toward the engine?
Thank you for the video! I am trying to get mine adjusted but I am running out of rod before the lever on the transmission is being 99% engaged. Any ideas? I have Holley 750 on my 318. I bought the adaptor arm and that doesn’t seem to be enough
Thank you. "Running out of rod" as in adjustment? You can sometimes put a short bolt/nut in the slot to take up the slack so the carb linkage activates the system.
The problem on my daughter's 1984 318 truck was after swapping the thermoquad for a Edelbrock it is pushing on the rod at idle causing hard 2-3 shifts.
Yep, that can happen going from carb to carb. Should be able to adjust it though. Either at the carb, or on the long rod down, or the short rod going to the transmission lever.
On holley 2 barrel carbs (2245, 2210), does the kickdown arm slide as seen in the first engine ("truck, van type") or is it fixed via bolt to the throttle lever (car style)? The kickdown is a long solid piece that rests in a "u" bracket with no joints along the lever and i've been having a hard time finding any information on brackets I need to reconnect my kickdown lever (it was detached when purchased vehicle and there aren't any studs to mount kickdown to throttle lever)
Another informative video! I had to purchase the Lokar cable type for mine a few years ago. It seems that when I adjust it that it changes my up shift points. Is this normal?
How much gap should there be between the rod on the carb throttle and the back of the slot? Essentially how much can you open the throttle before it engages the kickdown lever and starts pushing it back? Can the throttle be halfway open and that lever on the transmission be about halfway pushed back too?
As soon as you give it gas the throttle kickdown linkage should activate. The more you push it, the further it should go back. Your shift points in the car should reflect this. Very little gas from a stop, it may go from 1st to 2nd at 12 mph. Give it more gas from a stop and it may not shift to 2nd till about 28 mph. Floor it and it may not shift to 2nd till about 40 mph - or thus such for example
Good video very helpful i have a question I have a 1986 dodge d150 360 engine and 727 transmission it shift from 1 to 2 fine but from 2 to 3 to early like
I would adjust it to hold out 2nd a little longer and let 1st gear hold out a little longer. Make sure when you give it gas the kickdown linkage is being actuated
Hey buddy! I Adjusted the throttle pressure linkage so it is all the way back at wot. Shifts at 10-15 and 20-30 is that correct? Also does line pressure effect shift points. Is governor pressure the same as line pressure? Sorry for so many questions but I’m having a real hard time with this 727.
It shifts 10-15 mph at wide open throttle ? There may be something else going on. You may need to have a transmission person look at it. Wish I had more to offer !
Hey buddy I have a van like yours my van wont go over 65 mph . Its floored all the way. Think that my be part of the problem .ill check linkage or do you think i got issue on the carb let me know please thanks
If it's stuck in 2nd gear, it would be winding high in the rpm's, but it would still go past 65 mph. So many things could be the cause.... Does it have good power up to 65 mph ??
Yes. The kickdown is completely separate from the gear selector. About the most common way to eliminate the kickdown linkage is to go manual valve body.
Dodge marketed what I believe they called "part throttle kickdown". Adjusted properly you could get passing gear WITHOUT fully flooring the throttle. My 1968, 383/727 also had an adjustable vacuum modulator. Remove the vacuum line and insert an allen wrench to adjust. I would adjust one then go make a test hit. Then adjust the other and repeat. Once completed it would hit second HARD, frying tires on the shift (in drive). No shift kit. Gotta love Ma MOPAR!!!
Thank you! Getting to this point on my 74 Dart SE 318. Someone already put a 4bbl on, but it still has 2bbl kickdown linkage. Having trouble finding a decent priced kickdown, so thinking about modifying mine, but didn't know how to adjust it.
I have a 79 Valero I built the motor getting ready to fire up but it has no adjustment on the turnbuckle and I can't find adjustment anywhere else it's just solid
@@318willrun well that's were there no adjustment either normally you just screw in and go it's a very strange set up for this year only made the Aspen and volora for 5 years so I'm assuming it's something to do with that on why it's a awkward set up
Good video, it's not kick down linkage, it's throttle pressure linkage. If we called it the right term maybe people would stop leaving it disconnected.
I've really never bought linkage online. I've always just used factory set ups. I would think Ebay or Mopar forums or even Marketplace may produce what your looking for...
Good video on the kickdown adjustment..... so many people forget this and destroy a perfectly good transmission.
Thanks 👍
Funny how sometimes the simple explanations are the ones people avoid posting. So this was super valuable.
THanks For Watching!!
Great video! You showed and explained it perfectly! Thanks for sharing!
Thanks for sharing this. I couldn't figure out how to get it working so i shifted for a while, 1 2 3 and 3 2 1. Your other video helped me get it sorted and this'ne helps adjust it. I have to do a little more adjusting but i'm almost squared away.
Cool factory Holley spreadbore. I assume that's a 440? I bought a 440 from a junkyard in the 90s that came out of a '73 Dodge Monaco and it had a steel crank and that type of Holley (and not a Thermoquad), which baffled me. I also bought a 400HP from a retired '72 Fury I police car and it had no EGR and a Thermoquad (rare intake manifold!), with the ultra heavy main bearing webs and a cast crank. Thanks for educating these internet newbies to MoPar on the throttle cable function and setup!! :D
440, and yes, spreadbore. It's from a motor home and if i remember correctly, 1977
There is a third type of adjustment. Some have adjustment down by the transmission kick-down lever. There is a metal block that pins into the hole in the lever. The rod from the throttle comes down and slips through a hole in the metal block. There is a bolt that is tightened to lock the rod in that position. So, loosen the bolt on the block, have someone push the throttle all the way back (full open throttle - ENGINE OFF). Or you may tie the throttle open with a piece of wire. Adjust the lever to be almost all the way back, tighten the bolt. Now check by having someone step on the throttle pedal and observe movement of the kick-down lever.
Same, just now going through all your videos, you are very helpful. And you speak my kind of language…..smidge, etc.
Thank you, we appreciate it.
Thank you so much! For some reason, throttle and linkage is always a pain in the butt to find diagrams for. I'm rebuilding my 74 challenger right now and this is gonna help majorly. Lifesaver.
Thank you for watching, and best wishes with the Challenger !
Awesome video. Concise explanation, super helpful as I'm adjusting the kickdown on my '72 Dart!
Glad it helped!
Awesome. A year later and this video is still useful and entertaining. Keep up the great work.
Hey Princess Valiant! Thanks! Merry Christmas and Happy New Year
Needed this video glad to see a guy had it thanks
Great explanation on that linkage set up; and great demonstration with your example engine with carb throttle and kick down linkage hooked up as its designed. I now know better on how to check my slant 6 TF 727 kick down set up for any excessive play.
Big thanks for showing the linkage actuation down on the transmission. I've only seen videos on adjusting it at the carb, not what it should be doing at the trans.
Thank you,,Thank you,,I've looked and asked everyone no one had any idea. NOW they'll all have to ASK me as you told me EVERYTHING I need to know about MOPAR kick downs,,,LOL,,,,THANKS
Thank you !
That was a great explanation, the ford Aod is the same way if u run it without the kick down cable hooked up, may as well start looking for another one because it is fixing to go bad
Great video! Very well explained! Thank you
Good stuff man. Much appreciated!
Thanks man well explained
Thanks I needed to know that!!
Thank you so much saved me and everyone who looked at video
I appreciate it, and thanks for watching
Thank you!!
Thank you so much!!!
very helpful, thank you! I am going to be installing a new shifter on my channel Geek and Son soon. :)
Me going from a 2 barrel to a 4 barrel and all of sudden the damn rod at the top pivot will not come up to where it should be. Haven't tried loosening the adj yet, but.
Thank you!
Well that’s helps me thank you gonna hit the sub cause I’m gonna need to learn more!
Thanks for watching !!!!
Best video I’ve found so far! However… I’m worried that my rod is stopping the lever from getting enough return in the other direction (toward the engine). When the lever stops (idle) , should there be any more room in moving it toward the engine?
Thank you. It can be moved by spring or a simple nut and bolt in the slot to take up space.
Thanks!!
Nice!
Thank you
Thank you for the video! I am trying to get mine adjusted but I am running out of rod before the lever on the transmission is being 99% engaged. Any ideas? I have Holley 750 on my 318. I bought the adaptor arm and that doesn’t seem to be enough
Thank you. "Running out of rod" as in adjustment? You can sometimes put a short bolt/nut in the slot to take up the slack so the carb linkage activates the system.
The problem on my daughter's 1984 318 truck was after swapping the thermoquad for a Edelbrock it is pushing on the rod at idle causing hard 2-3 shifts.
Yep, that can happen going from carb to carb. Should be able to adjust it though. Either at the carb, or on the long rod down, or the short rod going to the transmission lever.
On holley 2 barrel carbs (2245, 2210), does the kickdown arm slide as seen in the first engine ("truck, van type") or is it fixed via bolt to the throttle lever (car style)? The kickdown is a long solid piece that rests in a "u" bracket with no joints along the lever and i've been having a hard time finding any information on brackets I need to reconnect my kickdown lever (it was detached when purchased vehicle and there aren't any studs to mount kickdown to throttle lever)
on the mopars, all I've seen have had the slide version of kickdown, but different types of pivots on the back of the engine.
Another informative video! I had to purchase the Lokar cable type for mine a few years ago. It seems that when I adjust it that it changes my up shift points. Is this normal?
yes, this will change when the transmission shifts on part throttle as well as wide open throttle
How much gap should there be between the rod on the carb throttle and the back of the slot? Essentially how much can you open the throttle before it engages the kickdown lever and starts pushing it back? Can the throttle be halfway open and that lever on the transmission be about halfway pushed back too?
As soon as you give it gas the throttle kickdown linkage should activate. The more you push it, the further it should go back. Your shift points in the car should reflect this. Very little gas from a stop, it may go from 1st to 2nd at 12 mph. Give it more gas from a stop and it may not shift to 2nd till about 28 mph. Floor it and it may not shift to 2nd till about 40 mph - or thus such for example
Good video very helpful i have a question
I have a 1986 dodge d150 360 engine and 727 transmission it shift from 1 to 2
fine but from 2 to 3 to early like
I would adjust it to hold out 2nd a little longer and let 1st gear hold out a little longer. Make sure when you give it gas the kickdown linkage is being actuated
Hey buddy! I Adjusted the throttle pressure linkage so it is all the way back at wot. Shifts at 10-15 and 20-30 is that correct? Also does line pressure effect shift points. Is governor pressure the same as line pressure?
Sorry for so many questions but I’m having a real hard time with this 727.
It shifts 10-15 mph at wide open throttle ? There may be something else going on. You may need to have a transmission person look at it. Wish I had more to offer !
What if it is completely bottom out with wide open throttle? Is that bad? Should i re-adjust the rod to have a tiny bit of slack?
I like a tiny bit of slack. Tiny, though
Hey buddy I have a van like yours
my van wont go over 65 mph . Its floored all the way. Think that my be part of the problem .ill check linkage or do you think i got issue on the carb let me know please thanks
If it's stuck in 2nd gear, it would be winding high in the rpm's, but it would still go past 65 mph. So many things could be the cause.... Does it have good power up to 65 mph ??
That's a pressure regular lever. I build those transmissions
Problem I'm having my engine and transmission came out of a 85 Diplomat A904 transmission shift out 1 and 2 shifts no 3rd.
Maybe the linkage is pinning the kickdown all the way back ??? Or maybe something internally in the transmission.
Mine is leaking where that linkage goes into the transmission. How do you take it out of the trans. Tried everything and can not get it out
Actually, I think John At Cope Racing Transmission did a video on this.
ua-cam.com/video/kDe28o7-npA/v-deo.html
Do you still need the kickdown with a ratchet style shifter?
Yes. The kickdown is completely separate from the gear selector. About the most common way to eliminate the kickdown linkage is to go manual valve body.
Dodge marketed what I believe they called "part throttle kickdown". Adjusted properly you could get passing gear WITHOUT fully flooring the throttle. My 1968, 383/727 also had an adjustable vacuum modulator. Remove the vacuum line and insert an allen wrench to adjust. I would adjust one then go make a test hit. Then adjust the other and repeat. Once completed it would hit second HARD, frying tires on the shift (in drive). No shift kit. Gotta love Ma MOPAR!!!
yes, part throttle kickdown! Even at slower speeds it will drop down a gear if the gas is pushed about half way.
Thank you! Getting to this point on my 74 Dart SE 318. Someone already put a 4bbl on, but it still has 2bbl kickdown linkage. Having trouble finding a decent priced kickdown, so thinking about modifying mine, but didn't know how to adjust it.
Thanks! I also have a video of hooking a 2bbl linkage up to a 4bbl!
I have a 79 Valero I built the motor getting ready to fire up but it has no adjustment on the turnbuckle and I can't find adjustment anywhere else it's just solid
try up by the carb.
@@318willrun well that's were there no adjustment either normally you just screw in and go it's a very strange set up for this year only made the Aspen and volora for 5 years so I'm assuming it's something to do with that on why it's a awkward set up
@@Greasyoldmopars been a while since i owned a volare or aspen
@@318willrun this first f body Ive owned so its different lol
Good video, it's not kick down linkage, it's throttle pressure linkage. If we called it the right term maybe people would stop leaving it disconnected.
I tried making a kickdown using a cable instead of the bar setup for my 727. What a pain in the ass! Where do you find the linkage bar online?
I've really never bought linkage online. I've always just used factory set ups. I would think Ebay or Mopar forums or even Marketplace may produce what your looking for...
@@318willrun Ok. Thanks 👍
www.lokar.com/assets/instructions/INS0046-ChryslerKickdown.pdf
@@chadfield376 Cool. Thanks
If you are looking for factory NOS you might google AMS OBSOLETE that place is a mopar gold mine of NOS parts
Thank you
You're welcome