LOL! definitely a SUPER BEE my friend! I run a modified T-Q on the original 383 HP on the bee. had to add the Edelbrock RPM intake for the spread-bore conversion, but man, you can't find that kind of power with any other carb! Yes, the choke set-up can always be a fun process. I usually end up having to bend a link or 2 to make it purr like it should on initial start-up. every little mod you make, seems to effect the opening or closing diameter of the choke valve, if even just a tad.
Hello Lee......Talk about a small World......The Thermoquad that I spent 99.9% of the time working on, was on a.....1974 Challenger Rallye, with all the go fast goodies for that year..... 360 Cubic Inch V8...(245 Net HP and 320 Ft Lbs of Torque), Dual Exhaust, 3.55 Sure Grip Axle, Heavy Duty everything, Sway Bars front and rear, and No air conditioning....It was an 850 CFM Thermoquad that was designed and calibrated for the A-833 4-Speed "Standard" Transmission.....Thanks for your Nice Comment!
@MrComanche87 Thanks for your kind comment! I have used the "Hygrade" brand in the past. Try to get a kit that has a "Brass" accelerator pump check valve in it. Make sure the two little "O-Rings" that sit in the float bowl look and feel like black rubber with what look like grooves on the surfaces. Buy 2 new floats. Also buy the big thick Carburetor to Manifold gasket. Don't soak the black phenolic float bowl in Carb Cleaner! Follow the set-up instructions in the correct sequence!
The gentleman with the Dodge "C R/T" did send me a message saying that the Muscle Car in question is/was a "CORONET", and it first saw the pavement around 1967, if I recall correctly.........If I may, I would like to suggest that you folks that like seeing Classic/Vintage cars or trucks, see if you can find some older movies that had Cars or Trucks that you are most interested in, and see them while they were being driven, or even seeing them parked on the street in the movie! : )
Rocky, I just wanted to say thanks pal for this video. I'm on tour with a rock band and I needed to rebuild the carb on our 78 dodge rv 440ci and these videos saved my ass. took, me 2 solid days, non stop. you describe everything very nicely, I applaud your work and my last comment will be, you deserve a million dollars! with your "lean drop" technique, my Carter thermoquad, sounds like a monster!! very aggressive sounding and strong! thanks k u so much for all of your hardwork!!
Greetings...Cb BroWnN...........You're welcome, and, thanks kindly, for your very nice comment too, oh, and...Congratulations, for doin', a mighty-fine rebuild job, on your RV's Thermoquad carb............Hmmm...does your freshly rebuilt, Carter Thermoquad's..."Sound"...with all 4-Barrels open, compare to that, of a "100 Watt Head" (aka, amplifier), set @ Full Volume, while sitting on top of 2...4X12...Marshall or Mesa Boogie Cabinets...while the Git-tar-ist, is slamming the guitar's strings, while playing a really Hefty..."Power Cord"...??? (No-Sir-ee-Bob, not the extension cord kind...!!!...lol)...well...??? (just kidding...lol)...........Gotta love the sound of a Tube Amp, when it just starts going into "Clip" (or what-ever)...........Sometimes, the Choke Pull-off (that little thing, that's on the side of the TQ/Thermoquad, that looks, kind-like, a little space-ship, can, at times, cause some problems, just so Ya know..........There's usually, a rubber-like Diaphragm, hiding inside of that Choke Pull-Off, which will usually deteriorate, with heat & age, and if not working so well, it, can at times, become quite Sticky (as in, not move very smoothly), and/or, get Stuck sometimes...........I found this out, with a Thermoquad, a while back, while I was trying to go W.O.T. (as in, Wide Open Throttle...Pedal to the Metal), and the engine was Coughing/Sounding really Sick, and, I had to back out of the throttle really quick...........That Choke Pull-Off, usually performs 2 Tasks, as in, "it" will control the Choke Plate, as well as, "it", also controls the Opening Rate, of the Secondary Air Door as well............The, so called "Lean Drop" adjustment, really only has to be done, if the vehicle's engine, has to be Smog Tested, but, the bonus of performing it, will usually, make it so, Ya won't be burning as much Gasoline, at the Stop Signs or Red Lights (b-cuz, the engine won't have to burn as much gasoline, while it's just idling)...........A...Million Dollars, you say...Probably not such a good idea, b-cuz...I'd probably only..."Spend it"...!!!...lol (thanks anywayz)..........Lem-me-see-now...if a Guitar String goes Sharp, just turn the applicable machine head knob, to Flatten it a bit, until it's @ the correct pitch (but, really should be, taken a wee-bit Flat, then, brought up to pitch, if doing it correctly, that is), and, if a (traditional, not electronic) Drum Head (skin) goes Flat, then, just turn those screws, with the Key, so the Drum Head sound, goes, just a bit Sharper, until it gets up-to Pitch...and...that be that...but, in the case of a car or truck, then, if a "Sharp" goes into a Tire, then, a "Flat", it will usually be, and, I hope not, and....till next time....Keep-on-Rockin'....&....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I need the know the spring placements to the various parts from the carburator and throttle body. I have a 1979 with a thermoquad a little different than yours but similar enough I think. A lot of the springs I found broke into pieces on top of the engine when I got the thing (lazy daze RV chassis). I know I'm missing something because the throttle is sticking and has almost no return and now the transmission isn't engaging so I need to look at the linkage. But I need to know about all the springs that make this thing stop and go. The manual doesn't really cover them very thorouly. Thanks. Great video. Post more?!
Excellent video, with good attention to detail. I rebuilt a TQ when I was about 17 for my '74 Challenger that my dad bought in 1990. I may go back through it sometime soon, the 2ndaries have been bogging pretty bad for the past few years of occasional driving. I'm 33 now, & haven't really touched the carb since I was 17 or 18. thanks Rocky, Lee in Middle TN.
Greetings...Reggie Black. My Custom Living...……..Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too………..Well, there are some, 4-K/high definition videos, on some of the UA-cam channels, and hopefully, some of these Hi-Def videos, will have some content in them, that, you might be interested in...……..Thing is, a Hi-Def (4-K) camera is needed, to record with, and, who-ever wants to watch "it", has to have a TV or Monitor (or screen), that is capable of displaying, that, shall we say...4-K...high pixel count...……..Maybe, watch some of the Hi-Def, Slow-Motion, UA-cam videos, as, some of them, that I watched, not so long ago, were really impressive, to say the least (the frame rate, that they used, was unbelievable...!!!)……..and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great intro video! Spoken very clearly with nice explanations of each part! I just tore apart my TQ on my 340 and your videos are really great explaining the different parts! Thanks a lot!
Great video. I have a couple of TQ's (one a comp series FO 4846SA) and will be going through them soon. Will be watching the rest of your video's. Thanks
My father worked at a Chrysler dealership and remembers them a pain to adjust.There is an old Chrysler training video from 1972 on mymopartv's video list on this website.5 adjustments.Another problem was getting the screws out,sometimes they never came out.I seen one like this out of a 1984 or 1985 Ramcharger,could not get the screws out and the thermoquad went in the scrap pile.Replaced it with an easy to tune Edelbrock Carb.
How much does these goes? I'm not sure what your question is?.......Goes, as in Price? or........How fast will a Thermoquad make a car or truck go?.....Price can be anything from Free to depending on if it has been modified for Performance or Racing or perhaps a New One still in its Original shipping box?.....Could be in the thousands of dollars?.....How fast you ask (maybe?).....How Fast do you want to Go?...
Greetings...copper jacket...…….You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...…….When it comes to adjusting/setting up a Thermoquad carburetor, then, always keep in mind, to make the adjustments in the proper sequence (as in, the order to do them), otherwise, it usually ends up being, that, the Thermoquad carb, will probably, not work so well at all...……The rebuild kit's instructions (sheet of paper), is usually pretty good, at showing that proper adjustment sequence...and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings and thanks for the thought and time put into these vids. I have a 77 dodge truck with a 440, and while my TQ runs nice and smooth, i am getting no secondaries at all, which (as you've mentioned in your vids) means i am getting bad response and bad MPG at higher rpms... i am getting 7 mpg full load or empty, uphill or downhill! and with a 3 speed with no overdrive, i am forced to use my tranny kickdown to get any extra acceleration up hills, etc instead of the secondaries. unfortunately, i am NOT a mechanic in any way, and feel quite stupid most of the time... i know my air door seems to move well and nothing feels stuck or sticky at all. what i am unsure about is the linkage from the choke pull off which i understand is what controls when the secondaries open... i didn't see in any of your videos how to make sure that whole linkage area is functioning properly. my parts all move, but i don't know more than that. any advice, or perhaps another video i could look at? i haven't delved into the rebuild series, just the 1-9 videos. thanks much in advance!!
GX500 Greetings GX500....Thanks for Your nice comment, and, for watching, as well................................7 MPG You say...well...I'd say, that, at least, it's...Not as Bad...as getting..."7 Gallons per Mile"...!!!...lol....................................As for the Carter Thermoquad Carburetor, there are a few things, to take into consideration, as it applies, to, Your, as You were sayin', Low Gas Mileage, and also, lack of Performance as well............................Well, for most Carburetors, when they get old and tired, as in, Lots of Miles on them, as well as, parts and pieces, some-what deteriorating, from, wear, heat and age, then, Performance & Fuel Economy, tend to drop off, to some degree, some more, some less, not to mention, that, Gasoline, in certain parts of the World, are getting/having..."Ethanol" (aka, Alcohol, sometimes derived from Corn, as in, Corn on the Cob)...maybe about 10% Ethanol there-abouts, in some places...added into their "Gasoline Blends", which, has the ability, to make some, if not most, Carburetors, Run on a some-what..."Leaner"...Air/Fuel Ratio, or Leaner, Air/Fuel "Mixture", side of things, as compared to, the usually 100% Gasoline, that Did Not have Any Ethanol/Alcohol Added into its Blend, that most of the earlier Thermoquad Carbs were "Calibrated" with, way back when..............................Well, no need to feel stupid, my Friend, as, all it really amounts to, is, just, how bad, that, You want to Learn, and Know about, what-ever the Subject Matter, happens to be, at any given time, and, basically, most of the time, it just boils down to, just putting in, the Times and Effort, towards, what-ever it is, that, Interests You, and, here's where I use my own, what-sham-ah-call-it, that be-in..."If a Person is Interested, that Person will Learn"...and as I see it, it really can't be put, any simpler then that (hopefully, and keeping my Fingers crossed as well...lol)............................Before I get into, the nitty gritty, I think, that, I should make You aware of, just..."How Important"...it is, to..."Follow The Sequence" (aka, the Order of doing things), as it pertains to..."Doing the Adjustments/Settings"...on, the Thermoquad Carburetor/s, as, by..."Not Doing So"...the Thermoquad Carb, will usually..."Run & Behave"...just like...(use Your Own Nasty Word Here...!!!...lol).................................If Your Thermoquad, has those "Nitrophyl" Floats (looks like black plastic), inside of it, they, at times, have the habit, of..."Acting Just Like A Sponge Does"...in that, there can be times, where those "Nitrophyl Floats", are able to..."Absorb Gasoline"...kinda making the..."Gasoline Soaked Nitrophyl Float"...Act, as I like to say, and that is, kinda like a..."Rowboat Half Full of Water"...does, and what that does, is, that Sinking, or Semi-Sinking Carburetor Float..."Will Not be Able to Close"...the..."Needle inside its Seat"... where-by, the Gasoline, will usually..."Keep Flowing into, one or both, of the Thermoquad's, Float Bowls, which will usually cause, a rather Unwanted..."Too Rich...Air Fuel Ratio/Mixture"...due to a..."Way Too High...Wet/Gasoline Fuel Level"...in one or both Float Bowls, and, could very well be, just one, shall we say "Thing", that can be, what is causing, like You were sayin'..."Only 7 Miles per Gallon"...!!!.................................Hopefully, Someone, Hasn't, Tinkered with, and, Made any Adjustments, to the Linkages and such, in a, shall we say..."Not Knowing Manner"...and perhaps, put said, Not Wanted Adjustments, not even being, way out in Left Field, but rather..."Not Even In the Ball-Park"...!!!...lol...even if so, it can usually be Fixed, if, that be the case...............................Now then, about Your Thermoquad's..."Secondaries"...Not Functioning, as They should be do-in......................................The..."Choke & its related Linkages"...Play a very..."Important Role"...in, just how "Good or Bad", Your Secondaries Perform, believe it or not....................................There is usually, a "Lock-Out Device/Part", that is located on the "Lower Left Side" (as Viewed, while You are Sitting in the Driver Seat), of Your Thermoquad, really Close, to "Shaft", that actuates, the Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies...and, this "Device/Part", Acts, pretty much, as a "Teeter-Totter" does, but, having a few exceptions, at that................................"It's actually a "Small, Counter-Weighted"...Teeter-Totter, that Prevents the Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, now get this..."From Opening"...Unless the Engine is..."Fully Warmed Up To...Operating Temperature...say what...???...lol.................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...it's "Designed" that way, so, the..."Lead" (pronounced Led...lol) "Foots"...out there...that..."Just Can't Wait, Till the Engine Warms Up"...to go, shall we say, into..."Pedal-To-The-Metal-Mode"..."CAN'T"...!!!...lol...................................With Your Engine "Cold and Not Running" (the Air Cleaner Housing, might have to be Removed to see this)...just "Push Down", on that "Big Fast Idle Screw", at the Front of Your Thermoquad, until it gets all the way to the Bottom, where You should see, a "Clearance Notch", at the Bottom, of those Fast Idle Lever "Steps", and, the Screw threaded end, of that Big, Fast Idle Screw, should "Wiggle" a bit, and not get Hung-up or Bind, at all, in that "Notch", when Adjusted Properly, and, working as "it" should.....................................While "Holding", that, Big Fast Idle Screw, all the way to the Bottom, You should be able to See, a 90 Degree Lever, that is part of, that Larger "Teeter-Totter" (Yes-sum, 2 Teeter-Totters, for even more Fun!), and, that 90 degree Lever, that is sticking-outwards, should be Pushing "Up", On that "Smaller, Teeter-Totter", and, that's when, that "Little Hook", on the other end, of that, Smaller Teeter-Totter, should be "Dropping Down", so, when, You are Asking, the Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, via its Throttle Shaft, to Open, You know...as in..."Pedal To The Metal Time"...or almost, as well, then, that "Little Hook", Has To Be Grabbing/Making Contact With, the..."Other Hook"...that is on Another Lever/Bracket, that is Connected to, that Short, just over an Inch Long, oh, about, 1/8 Inch Diameter, Round, Rod-like, Linkage, that You should be able to See, quite easily................................To "Verify", that, that Small, Teeter-Totter, is "Doing its Job", and, with the...Engine..."Cold, and Not Running"...just Hold, that Big/Heavy, Fast Idle Screw "Down", and..."Slowly, Move, the Primary, Throttle Plates/Butterflies..."Throttle Shaft, Bracket/Lever", by "Hand" (that Your Gas Pedal Cable is attached to, on Your Thermoquad carb)...all the way from..."Idle Speed"...right, up to..."Wot/Wide Open Throttle"...to "Make Sure", that, the "Secondary Throttle Shaft" is "Moving", and, that ,the "Hook", on that "Small, Teeter-Totter", is "Making, Very Good, and Full Contact", with the "Other Hook", but, there has to be, just, a "Very Small Bit of Clearance", where that Small, Teeter-Totter's, Hook End, of it, "Does Not Bind/Drag, or make Contact With, the Lever/Mechanisms, that are On the Secondary, Throttle Shaft, to prevent Operating Trouble, and that "Clearance", of about, no more, then about 1/32 of an inch, or 1 Millimeter, there-abouts is maintained (the Specified "Clearance", can be found, on a Thermoquad Carburetor, Rebuild "Kit's"...Instruction Sheet/Paper, or, a Factory Service Manual).................................Also, "Check" and make sure, that, Your Thermoquad's "Choke Plate" is "Fully Vertical/Open", just after You "Shut-Off Your Hot Engine", and please, be..."Very Careful, of some "Very Hot Engine Parts", so You Don't get a Nasty "Burn"...!!!.................................The Choke Pull-Off, has to be in..."Very Good Condition"...as, that Choke Pull-Off, not only provides "Vacuum Kick" (Opening of the Choke Plate, on Top of the Primaries), when the Engine is Started Cold, but, also, that there "Choke Pull-Off"..."Regulates and Controls"...the..."Opening of the Secondary Air Door" as well...!!!................................If "it"..."Does-Not"..."Open Properly & Enough"...then..."Too Rich of an Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture"...it will usually be (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I do speak from my Own Experience, having, all of that Unwanted Popping, and an Engine that, Sounded "Sick" and just Could-Not Go, cuz, that there "Not Opening Properly"...Air Door, was, as I see it, Acting, just like that Choke Plate Does, making for "Way-Too-Much-Gasoline", that my Engine, Was-Not able to Burn Properly).......................................If Your Thermoquad Carb, is quite Old, and, has Lots of Mileage on "it", that in itself, will usually "Prevent", our, good ole Thermoquad, from "Do-in its Job", as Good as, I do know, it's "Capable of", and, when, oh, shall we say..."Freshening"..."it"..."Up"...with, a..."Good Rebuild", using a Good Quality Rebuild Kit, along with..."Following"..."Exactly"...the..."Adjustment/Set-Up"..."SEQUENCE"...as set forth, in both, the Factory Service Manual, as well as the "Literature/Instruction Sheet", that usually comes in the Rebuild Kit, as well, then, that my Friend, will usually, make for, One Awesome, Performing, Thermoquad Carb, and, if You can keep Yur Foot Out of it (trying not to Laugh too hard...lol), You'll probably be the recipient, of some rather good, gas mileage as well...hopefully....................................Oh, and also, if Your Engine's Distributor, has a "Vacuum Advance Canister/Unit" (kinda, looks like a Mini-Space-Ship...lol), mounted on the outside of it, then, there's usually, a, rubber-like "Diaphragm", inside of it, which, just like the Diaphragm, that's inside Your Thermoquad's Choke Pull-Off, that, can, and will usually deteriorate some-what, as they get Older, get Flexed, an almost countless number of times, while in use, and, can sometimes, be responsible for, Lower gas Mileage as well, due to the, sometimes, lack of Vacuum, Timing Advance, while just Cruzin' along, just sayin' now...............................A Thermoquad Carb, Rebuld Kit, "Instruction Sheet", has some very Good & Important Information on it, both Picture-wise, and usually, in sequence too...!!!...as well as a pretty long list of Settings, for quite a few Different Models of Thermoquad Carbs, that, that particular Rebuild Kit Covers, as well.......................................If You ever get around to obtaining a Rebuild Kit, make sure, that You tell the Parts Person, the..."4 Numbers, followed by the Letter S"...that is usually Stamped, into Your Thermoquad Carb, at the Left Rear Corner, nearest the Bottom, to ensure, that You do indeed, have the Correct Rebuild Kit, for Your "Exact" Thermoquad carb...!!! ..................Once a Person, spends some time, Tinkering with, and Studying up, on a Thermoquad Carburetor, and, just like me, You'll probably be quite surprised, at how good You might just get, but in the very same breath, all of this Thermoquad stuff of mine, is, just a Hobby, after all, probably, due to, having a Thermoquad carburetor, that..."Wouldn't Behave itself"...lol...well...until, I got around to "Showing "it"..."Who the Boss is"...!!!...lol..................................Oh, before I forget, a good, Setting to start with, on that Air Door "Torsional Wind-Up Spring", that Controls the Secondary Air Door's, "Resistance", is about...1 and 1 half Turns...from where the Air Door, first Touches, that Aluminum, Casting Boss/Stop, at the rear of Your Thermoquad, where the Air Door Contacts, when it come to a Halt (aka, Stop)...and, the Rebuild Kit's Instruction Sheet, should have the Specified, Air Door, Spring Setting, Printed on it......................................So then, Check some of the Above out, on Your Thermoquad, and, let me know, how You make out, if You care to, that is..................................I hope, some, of this Long-wind-ed-ness, is able to help You out some-what, and.............Till next time..........be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
i have a 1978 winnebago with a 440 4 barrell carb and it needs some help.nobody In our local part store,Advance Autozone etc have no knowledge of the old school stuff. I hope to watch your videos so I can fix my rv for the summer,nice videos.Hopefully they will save me some $$$$$
Greetings Danny Davidson....Thanks for your comment...and...Welcome to the "World of Thermoquads!!!"...lol...If and when, You happen to get Your Thermoquad Rebuilt and Set-up Properly, it will reward You, and your Winnebago with some pretty good gas mileage, but only if, You keep Your foot, from mashing the Gas Pedal to the Floor!!!...lol....A well Rebuilt, and Set-Up Thermoquad carburetor, will make that Big 440 Cubic Inch V-8 Engine of Yours, "Move" that Winnebago rather easily, when, the Thermoquad carb, is "Doin' its Thing!" I'll mention a few things, that should help You out... Gasoline, these days, is usually, quite a bit Different, as compared with the Gasoline, that Your Thermoquad carburetor was "Calibrated" for, way back in "1978", depending on the Gasoline "Formulation", that is available to You, where You live, as well as, the Gasoline that will be available to You, where Your Winnebago takes You, while traveling, a fairly Long Distance, from where You live. Probably be finding, somewhere up to, oh, about 10% Ethanol (Ethanol = Alcohol), on average. I have found, that, the More (% of) "Ethanol" that is actually In the Gasoline "Blend", that I put in my Gas Tank, the "Leaner" (Leaner = Air/Fuel Ratio) that the Thermoquad carburetor would supply the Engine with, causing the Engine to "Surge", while just trying to maintain about 30 Miles Per Hour (or, about 50 Kilometers Per Hour), while on a level road. I had to "Enlarge" the Primary "Jets", in order to Cure, that Lean Running condition. Before You actually Start "Rebuilding" Your Thermoquad carburetor, I strongly Suggest, that You Buy "2" New "Floats", if they are of the "Nitrophyl" (black plastic) Material, as, I have found, that, over time, they Act like a "Sponge", absorbing Gasoline, and then start "Sinking", causing a "Very Rich" (as in, way too much Gasoline mixed in with the Air), causing, Lots of Black Smoke out of Your Winnebago's tail pipe, and, very, Very "Poor" Gas Mileage as well...!!! Also, "Replace" Your Thermoquad's "Choke Pull-Off", with a "New" one, or, nothing but, Trouble and Headaches! The "Choke Pull-Off", is Responsible, for not only, "Opening Slightly", Your Thermoquads Choke Plate, just after engine Start-Up...but...just as Important, It's the Gadget that "Regulates" the "Opening Rate" of Your Thermoquad's "Secondary Air Door"...!!! (don't say I didn't warn Ya!...lol). Try to get a "Rebuild Kit", that has a "Brass" Accelerator "Check Valve" in it. You can See this "Brass" accelerator check valve, in one of my Thermoquad Video's, as well as, in the Thumbnail Picture, for that very same Video. Make sure, that You Study, and check out any "Differences", that You see with Your Thermoquad carburetor, as Compared, to the Thermoquad that You see, in my Thermoquad carburetor Videos! There are "So Many" Different "Models" of Thermoquad carburetors, and, some have "Additional Gadgets", that "Were Not" Found on the Thermoquad carburetor, that You see in my UA-cam Video's! Until You happen to spend, quite a bit of time, with a Thermoquad carburetor, it, at times, can be quite frustrating to some Individuals, especially when, a Thermoquad carburetor is "Fed" (as in the word Feed) with some of that "Gas-Em-Ah-Hall" (aka, Gasoline blended with Ethanol), which "Is Not" the Type of Gasoline, that Your Thermoquad carburetor was "Calibrated" (aka, Set-Up) for, and, may, or may not, cause some, Engine "Running" issues (mostly on the "Lean" Air/Fuel Ratio side). So then, if, after watching (and hopefully understanding), what You see and hear, in my Series of Thermoquad carburetor Videos, You will have some basic knowledge, on what to be looking out for, as well as, "All" of the "Adjustments", that have to be done, in the "Correct Sequence", or, You'll find, that, It just "Don't" work right! One last thing (well, for now, that is), is to, Make Sure, to "Record" (aka, write down), the Primary and Secondary "Jet" Number/Sizes, that are "Stamped" on each of those (brass) "Jets", and also, the Number that is "Stamped" on the "2" (brass) "Metering Rods" as well, for Future "Reference!" (when You have Your Thermoquad carburetor Apart). If You care to, let me know, how Your Thermoquad carburetor "Rebuild" & "Set-Up" is progressing, and, I'll try to help You out, if needed. Best of Luck... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@ezrstl Thanks a bunch for you kind comment......As for the good old Thermoquads, there are so many variations of this carb that one should take into account......I recall that some of them had "Pressed in Jets", perhaps with a seal or gasket of some sort?......Maybe your Competition Series T.Q. is one of them with the pressed in jets, so be careful, as not to harm anything......On second thought, maybe make a Display Case for that awesome Competition Carb that you have, and Treasure it!
Greetings...John VanDenburgh..........You're welcome. and, thanks for watching..........Just so you know, usually, the later 1970's and 1980's Carter Thermoquad 4-Barrel carburetors, will usually have more Gadgets/Devices, added to them, as compared to, the very simple/basic Thermoquad carb, that I used, in all of these videos.............Also, those additional things (smog devices and such), have to be checked out, and in some cases, some adjustments to them, may also be required as well, maybe, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Congrats on being #1 on the street!..........but........what exactly is a Dodge C R/T ?...........Maybe a.........Coronet.........Charger.........Cuda..........or a...........Challenger perhaps?............Hopefully you can get back to us and let us all know what that "Muscle Car" of yours actually is, and also, what Engine was under the hood........(as we all sit here having an anxiety attack waiting for your Reply!).......lol........Take care and have a good one!
Greetings Wafrederick....I do admit, one has to have spent some time with the Thermoquad, especially when the Government mandated that the Auto-Makers comply with what I call, "How Lean can we go until it Seizes", in as far as something like the "Lean Burn" system is concerned....According to a leading Thermoquad "Guru" (not me), the best of the performance Thermoquads (not including the Competition series), were the ones made between 1972 and 1974, and maybe the one shown in my videos...
Thanks for your awesome feedback Philip!....Did your Jensen Interceptor have a Thermoquad installed at the factory when new, or was it added a while later perhaps?....I'll be making some videos later, about what I'll tell you now, to save you some head-aches....If you have "Nitrophil" (plastic) Floats in your TQ, they may have absorbed gasoline and started to sink, causing a rich mixture....If it hesitates while accelerating (normal driving, no heavy foot!), could be accelerator pump?...(con't)
...Also, Holleys for the most part, were quite easy to figure out....That's probably why a Carburetor Novice would prefer to work on one....For me, a Thermoquad is easy to diagnose, troubleshoot, rebuild, repair, set-up, oh, also, on my first try setting one up for the "Smog Test" (Emissions Testing), using the "Lean Drop" method for adjusting the Air/Fuel Ratio for idle speed mixture, using only a hand held Tachometer, That Mighty Thermoquad "Passed" the Emissions Test with Flying Colors! : )
@monabang Thanks for the nice comment!........Hmmmm......If your car runs like a Bat out of Hell, I'd say that's a very good start!.......Take a look at your spark plugs every so often, to see if they are showing too lean, or too rich a color on the electrodes and inner porcelain.......A Light to Medium Tan color is an indication that your fuel/air mixture is about right. When your carb gets older, give it a rebuild! Keep your choke, linkage, and choke pull-off working freely! : )
Thanks for the great tutorials Rocky, With these I tackled my first carb rebuild, the result?, 2 pumps of gas, my 340 in the Challenger lights right off!!!, Had some of the issues as your parts carb, Bent linkages etc, Dimple rubbing the float bowl, Fixed these and everything works fine, still a bit rich at idle,but, Still doing the final tweaking, Thanks again!!
+Guneslinger ....Greetings Guneslinger....You're Welcome, and..."Congratulations", for a Job well done...!!!..................Did You Install "New Floats", when You Rebuilt Your TQ...???...cuz, if, the Old ones, were made out of that Nitrophyl (looks, kinda like, black plastic) stuff, then, as I've Experienced in the past, some of them, like to act like a "Sponge", and will Absorb Gasoline, which will make that Sponge-like, Nitrophyl Float, Not-so-Float-worthy, and, it will usually start Sinking, kinda like, a Row-Boat, half-full of water, would be do-in, and, a Way Too "Rich", Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, it will usually be...!!!...............When-ever a Carburetor Float starts Sinking, the "Wet (gasoline) Fuel Level", in the Float Bowl, will then, usually, become much Higher than wanted, and, I had a "Sinker" (TQ Float), sink on me, and, it was so bad, that, I had Gasoline "Dripping" from One of the Primary (bore's) Nozzles, while the Engine was warmed-up, and, just at Idle Speed, and, before I found that out, I was thinking, that, it was a Choke related Problem, which, it really Can't be, cuz, the Choke Plate, and the Choke Linkage, was Fully-Off, once the Engine was up-to Operating Temperature........................Also, a "New" Choke Pull-Off, should be Installed as well, cuz, it's also Responsible for, the Opening Rate of Your TQ's Secondary Air Door/Plate, and, I had one, that was kinda Sticking, and Not Relaxing Fast-enough, and, while doing a WOT/Wide Open Throttle Acceleration, that poor ole Engine, sounded kinda sick, and went...POP...POP...POP...Not so Good, what-so-ever...!!!.....................Also, the Gasoline around here, probably has, oh, about 10% Ethanol (alcohol) in its Blend, and my Engine started to Lean-Surge on me, (Car was Buckin' back and forth), while just maintaining City-Speed......................On that particular TQ, I ended up, Re-Jetting, the Primary Fuel Jets, From .095"/Ninety-five Thousandths of an inch, All the way Up-to, 104"/One Hundred (and) four Thousandths of an Inch, just to Get-rid of, that Lean-Surge, that I was havin' at the time...Yikes...!!!....................If Your Engine, happens to have a Performance Camshaft in it, as compared-to, the Factory Installed One, then, that, in-itself, could be the cause, of a Not-so-Nice Engine Idle (Stink-ee Exhaust...???), without have the TQ, Properly Set-Up for it, and probably, the Ignition Timing as well.....................I have some Videos, on my UA-cam Channel...RockysRoadshow...that should help You out, and, I have one, where I show Folks, using my, BIG ole Analogue (has a Needle/Pointer that Waves at You...lol), Automotive specific, (Multi-) Meter, on, how to Set-Up, one of the Older/Basic TQ's for Smog/Emissions Testing, that I actually used/did, and, I sure did get, some rather Good Results, showing, on that Smog Test (Report Card...???...lol) Paper, that was handed to me, after all, was said and done...Yip-ee...!!!...lol...oh, and, also, one Fellow, that watched the Video, that I just mentioned, used that Video's Information, on His own TQ, and, He "Passed" His Smog Test...!!!...Wowsers...!!!...lol ........................Maybe, do an Internet Search, for...Vaanths Guide...or maybe it's...Vaanths Thermoquad Guide...cuz the Guy that Wrote, and/or Compiled it, did a "Fantastic Job", and then some...!!!....................If You happen to have any questions or concerns, at all, just Post them, under, any of my UA-cam Videos, and..........till next time............Be Safe, take care (Don't get too many Speeding Tickets now), and have a good one.
+RockysRoadshow .... Brass floats and the ever so cool brass accelerator pump base, i still need to spend some time tuning the carb, it is a project car and does not move much, i9t is the correct carb for the year and trans, 6318S, I remember when i rebuilt the 340 going with a energy cam that was basically 1 step up from the 69 340 cam, that was the one that they quit using because it was a bit "lumpy" for a factory cam, car has a 69 block in it, so of course i went with 10.5 -1 flattop pistons, could not read the size of the primary jets, metering rods are 1962, I used to have one of those boxes you are talking about and may still have it out there somewhere!!
+Guneslinger ....Greetings Guneslinger....Good to hear, that You got the Brass stuff................As long as, those Nitrophyl Floats, and that orange/tan colored rubber-like stuff, that was used in some of the earlier TQ's, accelerator pump, Check valves, didn't get Too Old, which, if, it/they did, then sometimes, they would Malfunction miserably, as I've experienced in the past..............Mr. Factory installed, Lumpy Camshaft, was probably Cancelled, because of, Smog/Emissions Standards, that it was not able to meet, possibly...???................Before I forget, make sure, that You Use, the "Correct", High Octane Rated Gasoline, for Your High Compression Engine, or it might turn into Detonation (or Pre-Ignition?) City, and I hope not..................Also, see if You can find out, how much (if any?) Ethanol (alcohol), is actually in, the Gasoline Blend, that You'll be pumpin' into Your Challenger/E-Body's Gas tank, cuz that "Gas-em-ah-haul", tends to make an Engine, Run, on that, Not-Wanted, Lean side of things...!!!....................Here's, what will usually happen, if a Lumpier Camshaft, is installed in an Engine, that previously had, a Factory/Stock, not-so-aggressive, Camshaft in it....................The Engine, now has a Lumpy/quite Aggressive Camshaft in it, and the Engine, while being fully warmed up, and, at curb Idle Speed, just wants to Stall, so, out comes the Screwdriver, and the Curb Idle Speed Screw, gets Turned In, oh, let's say, 3 or 4 Turns In, as an example....................Now then, the Engine stays Running, but, the Exhaust Gas, that's exiting the Tail-pipe/s, is Stink-ee & Super Rich Smelling, and Ur Eyes start watering..............Why is that, You ask...???...well, the TQ is probably Idling on the Gasoline, that's coming out of the Primary throttle bore's Nozzles, that are "Above", the throttle plates/butterflies, "Instead-Of", the curb Idle Only Circuit, which it should be doing, at Curb Idle Speed.....................When the Curb Idle Speed, is Set "Correctly", and the Engine is Idling on the "Idle" (only circuit), then, if a Person was to have a look-see, at the Transfer Slots, as Viewed, from "Under" the Primary Throttle Bores (having the TQ "Removed", from the intake manifold), the Throttle Plates/Butterflies, should be leaving/exposing, what appears to be, a Square shaped Opening there-abouts................Now then, if we took a look, at the Transfer Slots, (from Under the TQ), just after the Curb Idle Screw, was Turned-In those 3 to 4 Turns (in), then, those 2 Transfer Slots would probably be looking like a Rectangle/Rectangular shape (not Square), and, by having those 2 primary throttle Plates/Butterflies Opened that Far, then, the Air Flow past the throttle plates/butterflies, would increase to a point, where-by, Gasoline, would then be, coming out-of the Primary Throttle Bore's Nozzles, at Curb Idle Speed, which we really don't want, especially on a street driven Vehicle....................Also, by having, too much of the Transfer Slots Exposed at Curb Idle Speed, the Engine would probably Run like crap, when-ever, tryin' to get the Car, to accelerate normally, from a stand-still........................There are at least 2 ways, that I can think of, to, shall we say, Cure, all of that Stink-ee Exhaust, and waste of gasoline..................Not so recommended, is, what the Old School Hot-Rodders, used to do (at times), and that was, to drill a small hole, in each of the Primary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, in order to get some curb Idle (speed), "By-Pass (idle) Air", so the Engine would Idle properly......................If a Distributor, that has, Centrifugal Advance Weights & Springs, as well as, having, a Vacuum Advance Unit/Canister, on it as well, then, it can be "Modified", to Suit an Engine, that has been Performance/Upgraded with a "Lumpier/more Aggressive Camshaft/Bump-Stick, but, some, quite "In-Depth" Planning and forethought is needed, before doing-so, to say the least...............I had a Look at Vaanths Thermoquad Guide, for that...6138-S...TQ, and the Metering Rods showing, were...1940...not...1962...so, maybe, Your TQ, might have had, a few Changes, here and there, in the past perhaps...???......................The 6138-S...TQ...is for a Standard Transmission/with the Clutch Pedal, is it not...???...if so, I can Picture, a...Hurst, 4-Speed, Pistol Grip Shifter...that, shall we say, is...Stirrin' the Pot...lol.............If, You still can't find out, what Your TQ's Jet Sizes are, head over to my UA-cam Channel...RockysRoadshow...and look for, the Carburetor...Jet Measuring Tool...UA-cam Video, and that, Tool/Gauge,that is shown in that Video, was, what I made, out of a piece of coat hanger wire, which was filed into a very gradual Taper, and then...Super-Polished....lol.......................So then, that's about it for now, and, if You need any help or advise, from me at all, just post, any questions or concerns, under, any of my UA-cam Videos, and.............till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...MILT OCHSNER.........Thanks for watching.........Am I still out there...???...(so, I go over to the mirror, and I ask the guy, that I saw in there, the very same question, and he replied)...Yes, you are still "out there" alright (on the other side of the mirror, that is...!!!)...lol.........Secondaries sticking slightly open, you say...???..........Do you mean the "air valve", that's near the top of the Thermoquad carb, or, do you mean, the "throttle plates" (butterflies), that are near the bottom of the Thermoquad...???.........Easy part first...there is a bent metal rod, that connects the primary throttle shaft, to the secondary throttle shaft, along with a counter-weighted catch/lever.........The secondary throttle plates will only open, when the engine is warmed up, and the catch is into it's operating position, and also, the secondary throttle plates, won't start opening, until the primary throttle shaft, is quite a ways open as well..........There is a certain "sequence", that, the adjustments/settings have to be made in, on a Thermoquad carb, or, things tend to get messed up, and don't work right.........If it's idling too fast, then, the choke's BIG/quite heavy fast idle screw, might not be dropping all the way down, and clearing the fast idle lever/cam, when the engine is up to operating temperature, possibly.........There might be two things, that control the curb idle speed, that might not be set correctly.........There is sometimes a curb idle speed solenoid on one side, and, on the other side, there is a slower setting, stop screw, and, either one of them, can cause a higher then wanted curb idle speed, if not set properly.........A rebuild kit, will usually have, very good set up/adjustment settings, printed on the instruction sheet, that's in it.........Kinda sounds to me, that, perhaps someone might have made an improper adjustment or two, somewhere along the way, possibly, which can cause the problem that you are experiencing.........If you can tell me, what the Thermoquad carb model number is, then, I might be able to help further.........There are usually four numbers, followed by the letter S, which are stamped into, the Thermoquad's base (lowest aluminum part), at the rear of the carburetor, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow I just meant are you still active on UA-cam. It is a 9009s that came in a lot of carbs from ebay. I rebuilt it from your excellent videos. I cleaned up the secondary bores and butterflys and now the spring can hold them shut. When I rebuilt it the mixture screws were seized and it took a long time to free them up. Now after setting for a yr. they are seized again so I don't know if I will ever get it going.
@71bee383 Thanks for the nice comment, my Mopar Friend!......It's sure a good thing that the $25.00 T.Q. that you see in my videos is not a "Smogger" carb with all of that extra window dressing added in the form of, "How Lean Can We Go Before It Seizes!"......lol......I think the toughest part of the rebuild will be getting everything set up properly, and in the right sequence so the Choke will work properly and shut off at the right time!......ps, are you a regular Bee, or a......"SUPER BEE?"
Greetings phw340....Sorry, I seem to have missed giving you a reply....(better late, then never, I guess)....Thank-You, for posting your "Fantastic" comment, and, indeed, I really appreciate what you said....I find that, by using simple words (as much as possible), then, people that have little, or no experience with the subject that I'm talking about, helps them out, as opposed to over-using all of that "Technical-Jargon", that leaves the beginner confused....(I was there once)....Take care...
Also, I had a 2-Barrel Holley on a 225 Slant-Six (six cylinder engine), with Hooker Headers no less!...That may have been the best Holley carburetor ever made!...Mind you, it had a Manual choke...That being said, maybe it was me, that made that 2-barrel Holley carb run so well, well at least when it wasn't fully warmed up!..lol..Yeah, please don't pre-judge me, because I happen to like all of the carburetors out there....Thermoquads are easy to set up compared to Webbers!...Take care, my Friend
Hello Rocky. Bjorn Aasvik from Norway her. Thank you for informative videos on youtube regarding rebuilding of Carter 4 bbl carb. I have followed you stepp for stepp. The carburetor I rebuilt was a Carter 850 TQ 9036S, wich I belive was put on a 440 engine. The carb. work much better now, but it's not working satisfactory. I have a Dodge Li'l Red Express 1979 with a 360 E58 EH1engin. It seems that the careburator give to much gasoilin to this engin. Difficult to get idle speed when the motor is warm, and it drown when I make a kickdown. Is it difficult to rebuilt it so it will work on the 360 engin. The motor came orignal with a 850 I belive the carb. number was 9226S. Bets regards Bjorn
Greetings Bjorn Aasvic....Thanks for Your nice comment, and, You are welcome, my Friend, living in Norway....There are a few things, that can cause Both of Your Thermoquad carburetors, to be, Not-Working very good....A Person that has almost Any of the "Older" Carburetors, that were "Factory" Installed on Engines, when the Vehicle was first Sold to the Public, back in time, to about the 1980's, were, as I see it, "Calibrated" (aka, set-up with the Fuel-Jets, Metering Rods, or Power Valves, and Air Bleeds, and any related Fuel or Air Passages, as well as, the Required Adjustments Necessary, that were needed, in order to provide the Engine with the "Correct" Air/Fuel Ratio, for the Engines "Needs", right from a Cold Start, Light Cruising Speed, and, up to, a Hard Acceleration, with Wide Open Throttle). The first thing, that should be considered, is, "What" is actually "In" the Gasoline, that You Buy, where You Live? The "Older" Installed Factory Carburetors that were Installed on New Cars and Trucks, back then, (Not the "Newer" After-Market Carburetors), as I have experienced, were actually "Calibrated" using 100% Gasoline! Now, take that very same "Older" Factory Installed Carburetor (in Original and New Condition), and, put some Gasoline that has about 10% Ethanol (Ethanol = Alcohol) in its "Blend", like the Gasoline Blend, that is currently being sold here in Canada, in Your Vehicles gas tank, and, what I have experienced, in the past, was, what is referred to as "Lean Surging". Lean Surging, is when a vehicle Jerks back and forth, when just trying to maintain 30 Miles Per Hour, or, 50 Kilometers Per Hour, on a level road, while keeping the gas pedal held steady. This, to me, was, caused by that Up To 10% Ethanol, that was Blended into the Gasoline, which caused a "Leaner" Air/Fuel Ratio. The more Ethanol (aka, Alcohol), that happens to be in the Gasoline Blend, that You put in Your gas tank, will in some cases, Require, that the Affected Not-So-Good performing Carburetor, be "Re-Jetted", usually with "Larger Fuel Jets", in order to provide the Correct, and Increased "Flow Rate", that Ethanol (alcohol) Requires, to keep Your Engine from Running "Too Lean" (air/fuel ratio). Using 100% Gasoline in Your gas tank, as a Base Line, Your Carburetors "Fuel Jets" would be at a certain size (orifice or hole size in the Fuel Jet, in Thousandths of an Inch, or, in Millimeters). Now, imagine if 100% Ethanol (alcohol) was in the gas tank. In order to get that Carburetor to operate normally, those "Fuel Jets" would have to be Changed to a "Much LARGER Size", because, the Engine, while Hot, and at Idle Speed, or Light Gas Pedal Cruise Speed, needs to have about 14.7 Air/Fuel Ratio at about Sea level, and, if trying to use Ethanol (alcohol), with the "Smaller" Gasoline "Fuel Jets", while still in the Carburetor, that Poor Engine would be Running "Way Too Lean", and would Run Terribly, if at all, and, Your Engine would be probably be Damaged as well...!!! So, see if You can find out, just what is "In" the "Gasoline", that You put in Your gas tank, and let me know. That way, I will have a better idea, as to, just how much "Extra" help, that You might need, in order to have "1", or maybe "2", Very Good Performing Thermoquad Carburetors, that are not Operating so well at the moment. There are a few "New Parts", that Should always be "Replaced", any time, that a Person does a "Proper" Thermoquad carburetor "Rebuild" Install "2" New Floats, if they are the "Nitrophyl" (black plastic) type. These "Nitrophyl" Floats, usually will start "Absorbing" Gasoline, then, they start "Sinking", causing a "Very Rich" Air/Fuel Ratio, that will "Waste" Gasoline, and, give Your Vehicle, "Very Poor" Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age! Install a "New" Choke Pull-Off (make sure that You get the "Correct" One, and, give the Parts Guy the Number/Letter that's Stamped on the Lower Throttle Body, as in, Your TQ's...9036S...or...9226S...???) If trying to use the "Old" Choke Pull-Off, sometimes they get "Stuck", or "Respond" Too Slowly, or, maybe the Internal Diaphragm gets a "Leak" in it, which will "Not Allow" it, to Operate Properly! Your Fuel Pump, should not have a Fuel Pressure Above about 7 Pounds Per Square Inch, because too much Fuel Pressure, has been know to "Over-Power" the Needles in their Seats, causing a "High Fuel Level" in the Float Bowls, which in turn causes a "Way Too Rich" Air/Fuel Ratio! I have found that, any Engine "Modification", will Change, or Upset, the Carburetors "Calibration", some just a little bit, while others, Lots! Just by Installing "Tubular Exhaust Headers", on a V-8 Engine, that already had a Dual Exhaust System on it, caused that V-8 Engine, to Run quite a bit "Leaner" (Air/Fuel Ratio), because of the "Scavenging Effect" of the Exhaust Headers, enabling that V-8 Engine, to "Breathe Better!" Ignition Timing is very Important as well. Which Vehicle? Is it Stock or Modified? So, if You care to, just let me know, all that You can, about the vehicle in question, that way, I will be able to help You out, so much more, rather then having me, going on, a... ..."Wild Goose Chase...!!!"...lol. Hmmmmm...Why are You Norwegians such "Good Ski-ers?"... ...and... ...Congratulations for "Owning" a quite Rare, "Li'l Red Express!!!" Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Rocky, really enjoyed these thermoquad videos. Thanks for posting them. I'm about to rebuild the thermoquad on my '73 Chrysler Town and Country. Do you have any particular rebuild kits that you use or recommend?
...Also, as for some problems with Holleys....Before they came up with the "Protection" for the Power Valve (some may even call it an Economy Valve), if you happened to have a Backfire through your Holley carburetor (older ones), you would probably be seeing a big black cloud of exhaust smoke coming out of your tailpipe as you looked in your rear view mirror....That backfire through your Holley carburetor just blew a hole through your Power Valves Diaphram!...Metering Rods are more refined : )
Hi. I'm making educational clip about "must know" carburettors. The only carb i dont have on my shelf is thermoquad. Can I use fragments of this video in mine ?
Greetings...V8interceptor.........Hello, and thanks for watching........Sure, go ahead, and use my Carter Thermoquad videos, as you wish, as, I would sure like to see, that, lots of information, about this particular carburetor, is still available, to any and all persons, that happen to be showing an interest in it.........Some websites, will probably still have, a link, to...Vaanths Thermoquad Guide...which happens to be a very good web-page, about the Thermoquad carb, that has been, very well compiled/written, to say the least, so, make sure that, you try to find it, and read it too, enjoy..........Hmmm...lem-me-see now...your youtube name is V8interceptor, and now, I'm thinkin' that, it might very well be, a Jensen Interceptor (car), that came factory stock, with a 440 V-8 engine, with a Thermoquad carb on it, correct...???.........I helped a guy out, a few years ago, that had that very same car, that also had, a factory installed, Thermoquad carb on it.........His name is...Phillip Lockner...(spelling...???), and, he had two youtube videos, where-by, he video's, his Thermoquad's Air/Fuel ratio (with an air/fuel ratio gauge), while he is driving his Jensen Interceptor, while being under, different speeds, and (engine) loads, be it, from a stop sign, or rolling into the throttle, while the car was already moving along.........He monitored the air/fuel ratio, before, and after, he made an adjustment or two, to the metering rod's, hanger (tree) adjustment screw, and, even I was quite surprised at, the difference that it made...!!!........The earlier years, of Thermoquad carburetors (like the one, that you see in this video series of mine), were less complicated, than, the later (year) models, because of, all of the extra, shall we say, gadgets, that got installed onto them.........Last, but not least, is that, a lot of people, aren't aware of, doing all of the Thermoquad's, settings/adjustments, in the..."correct sequence"...(as in, order of doing them), and, if not done properly, then, it will usually result in, a Thermoquad carb, that won't be performing, all that well, at all..........Good luck, with your educational videos, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...woodey028...........Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too............If you're ever working on, or, setting-up/adjusting a Thermoquad carburetor, and Ya happen to run into any difficulties at all, feel free, to give me a shout, and, I'll see what I can do, to help you out, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow Wow thank you so much for the reply. I own a "Survivor" 1972 340 4-gear Dodge Demon. I have the original TQ and am going to rebuild it thanks to your videos. I plan on reaching out if need some advice :) Its videos like this that really count.
Greetings...woodey028...........You're welcome...........If your TQ has the "nitrophyl" (looks, kinda like, black plastic) "floats", then, "don't re-use" them, because sometimes, they might become, a "sponge" wanna-be, as in, they can sometimes "absorb" gasoline, and start to "sink" some-what, and will have the potential, to make-for, a TQ, that sends, a "way-too-rich", of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), into an engine that doesn't need it, and might also cause, a heck-of-a-lot-of, un-wanted "carbon" (coating), inside of, the engine's combustion chambers, and, whole exhaust system too...........There should be "brass" floats available for a TQ, and, there's usually only a few dollars difference, between the two (material) types, oh, and, the "brass" type, can be "leak tested", and, is usually "repairable" too (soldering anyone...???...lol)..........Also, install a brand "new"..."choke pull-off"...as well...because, the rubber-like internal diaphragm, will usually dry-up, with heat & age, and, "it" controls, both, the choke plate/flap opening, and fast idle linkage operation, as well as, the opening rate & amount, of secondary air door actuation............TQ's are very "fussy", when it comes to doing, all of its "adjustments/settings", in the "correct sequence" (aka, order of doing them), as in, some of the adjustments/settings, will "affect", some of the "other", adjustments/settings, that occur later down the line.............The (paper) instructions, that come in the TQ rebuild kit, are usually very well done, so, read, and look at all of the pictures, several times, to the point, that, you really know how it's supposed to be done, and, pay very close attention, to the (usually numbered), adjustments/settings..."sequence"...!!!...well, if Ya want to have the best chance, at having a TQ that will behave itself, while going easy on the gas pedal, and "roar" like a "lion", when that gas pedal, then becomes, the....Loud Pedal...!!!...lol...........So then, a 4-speed transmission perhaps, as in, oh, maybe an...A-833...along with a Hurst Pistol Grip shifter as well...???............If you haven't already done so, do an internet search, for...Vaanths Thermoquad Guide...(some websites out there, will probably still have a "link" to it), and also, see what the...4-numbers, usually followed by the letter S, that should be stamped into your TQ's throttle body (lowest aluminum part), near one of the rear corners, are, that way, they might (should), show-up, in the listing section, on Vaanths Thermoquad Guide, and, will usually be showing, jet sizes, metering rod sizes, etc...........Same...4-numbers, followed by the letter S...are what you'll usually need, to get the "correct", rebuild kit, floats, choke pull-off, etc, for your "exact" TQ (Hmmm...1972, might be different than, those 4-numbers, followed by the letter S...???)...........Gasoline, in 1972, was, what I like to call "real gas", because, these days, there's usually about 10% Ethanol (alcohol, sometimes made from corn), that's added into the (current day's) "blend", and because of this (I like to call it)..."gas-em-ah-haul"...lol....then, there's that...some time ago, I had to "re-jet" (fuel jets), quit a bit "larger" (bigger orifice/hole size), to get rid of that "lean surge", that I was having (car was bucking/jerking back and forth), while just going at city speed, on a level road...........Once I got the (fuel) jetting corrected, then, that, good ole TQ, got the engine, back to, responding & performing..."super"...once again...yip-ee..!!!..lol..........If you need any help at all, just give me a shout, oh and, I spent quit a bit of time, with those 1970-ish Dodges as well, just so Ya know.............Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings...woodey028..........."Newsflash"...!!!...well, not really...lol............Just thought, that, I'd throw a bit of info your way............If you don't already have, a real "genuine"..."Factory chassis, and, body service Manual"...then, maybe, get one (sometimes two books, make up the set), as, I found, the mid-1970's, Dodge, "factory service manual/s", done, really, really well, and, there should be, a really good section, with set-up specifications & drawings, for the Thermoquad, as a bonus, if you will............There should be, a Vendor, on EBAY, that sells "CD-ROMs", for about $30.00 (that be, thirty dollars, USA currency), that will probably have the very same information, that was found, in the old school, factory service manuals..........If, for some reason, you can't get ah-hold of a Demon manual, then, I be thinkin', that, a (Plymouth?) Duster, might be really close............When new, the mid-1970's, Dodge (factory) service manual/s (was about the same size, as a sheet of computer paper, edge-wise, there-abouts), and came in two parts, the thicker one, being the chassis part, was just shy of 2-inches thick...!!!...and the Body section (separate book), was about 5/8 of an inch thick, as I recall..........I'm not sure, if Haynes, ever made a manual, for your car or not...........Here's something, that I discovered, a few years ago..........I went to a store, that, had lots of car manuals and such, so, I find two factory service manuals, one, was all covered in oil, and (grease monkey) grease...lol...and, was about, 1 and 1/4 inches thick, and the other one, was only about 5/8 of an inch thick, and, looked as though, it was never opened-up before, almost like new...!!! (I actually saw, some very small indentations, on each edge of the manual, mid-way, from each corner, on the front cover, where, I assumed, that, it was bound to some other books (in a pile maybe?), with some string, or small cord, of some kind..........So, I take these 2 factory service manuals, over to the sales counter, and ask the guy (store owner?), as, to why, the "different" thicknesses...???...so...the counter guy, starts flipping both manuals, to random pages, and, they always Matched each other 100%, when both of them, were at the same page number, well, less the oil, and (grease monkey) grease, that is...lol..........Then, the counter guy, soon, figured out, what the difference was, and it all boiled down to, now get this...the..."Thickness"...of each..."Sheet of Paper"...that was in each of the Manuals, when being compared to each other...!!!...(damn)...so, I ask him, how much each manual cost, and, the one, that looked almost new, was only about, $5.00, or was it $10.00, (I forget), "more", than the "grease monkey"..."handled"...one...lol...so, the much cleaner one, that almost, looked like new, was the one, that I paid for, that day (no-brainer, I be thinkin'...lol)..........Good luck, with your "Ride", and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings once again Philip....You may find that some of my other Videos may be of some help to you also....Feel free to check out my Channel....Just type...RockysRoadshow...into the UA-cam search bar if you haven't already....There, as with fuel injection also, you will find things like, Spark Plug Reading, etc....I'm not sure how much you already know about the automotive world, but, I'm always here to help if need be....Take care, and good luck with your Ride.
Greetings Wafrederick....Thanks for your comment and opinion....I guess it's just human nature for some to resort to name calling when something goes wrong....I have spent time working on, and figuring out design features and performance problems with Thermoquads, Holleys, and Rochester carburetors, and each of those three do have problems...Double Pumper, you say?...Hmmmm...Then you're talking Gallons per Mile, not Miles per Gallon!...lol...Thermoquads and Rochesters get the best mileage! : )
Thank you so much for the work you have done with this series. I'm starting my rebuild tomorrow and I feel a lot more confident after watching these. I have a Thermoquad 9128S from my 79 IH Scout with 345. I was hoping to install a 1in. spacer when I reinstall the carb...should I still use the thick bottom gasket? that may be a little too much? Oh, and any suggestions on how to hook up the choke rod that comes from the manifold? its the one that has an internal wound spring, I think it operates from motor heat...not sure. Are those adjustable? Thanks Again John
Greetings John Popielarcheck....You are welcome, and Thanks, for Your well appreciated comment, my Friend....Oh, where to start....First thing that I should be sayin', is, pay close attention to the Thermoquad carburetor that You have in front of You, because, I'm thinkin', that, it may very well have "More Gadgets" on it, then, the Thermoquad carburetor, that You saw in my UA-cam Videos....Also, if, "Your" Thermoquad Does happen to have "Extra" Gadgets on it, then, if You "Change" or "Disable", any Gadgets or Vacuum Hoses, as well as, any Electrical Wiring, that might be connected to any Electrical Gadgets, that were Originally Installed on Your particular Thermoquad carburetor, it may very well "Cause", some "Not so Good", Engine Running, and, Performance, as well. Pay very "Close Attention", to the Thermoquad carburetor's "Rebuild Kit's Instruction Paper/s", as there should be some very good Information, that You should "Read", over and over, until You can (hopefully) Understand, the Information, that is Printed on that, or those, Instruction Paper/Papers. Make sure, that You "Follow" the Correct "Sequence", that You see on those Rebuild Kit "Instructions", as, it's Very Important, or, Your Thermoquad carburetor, Probably Won't work very well...!!! For the Best chance, at having Your Thermoquad carburetor, Perform at its Full Potential, I would strongly suggest, that, You Install "2" New Nitrophyl "Floats", as, usually, over time, they have a habit of turning into "Sponges", and "Absorb Gasoline, and start "Sinking", causing a very Unwanted "Way Too Rich" (air/fuel) Ratio, which in turn, Wastes Gasoline, Fouls Spark Plugs, and Carbons Up Your Engines Heads (internally) as well as, the Tops of the Pistons as well...!!! Also, especially Important, is to Install a "New" Choke Pull-Off, as, not only does it provide, what is known as Vacuum Kick, for the Choke Plate, on cold engine Start-Up, but also, that Choke Pull-Off "Regulates" the "Opening Rate" of Your Thermoquad carburetor's "Secondary Air Valve"...!!! Even the Gasoline, that is sold these days (usually has a certain %-age or Per-Centage of Ethanol/Alcohol, in its Blend), that can cause a Thermoquad carburetor, to run on the "Lean" (air/fuel ratio) side, and may require, an Increased Primary and/or Secondary (fuel/gasoline) "Jet" Change, to a LARGER Size, to keep Your Engine from "Lean Surging" Lean Surging = an example is...when Your Vehicle (with engine at operating temperature) "Surges" back and forth, while trying to maintain city speed, on a level road, while holding the gas pedal in a fixed position. If You have any Running/Performance issues after the Rebuild of Your Thermoquad carburetor, I'll do what I can, to help You Fix the problem/problems. The Altitude, that Your Vehicle is being operated at, has a Great Effect, on how well, it Runs/Performs. Just Don't Go Too "Lean", on the Air/Fuel Ratio, or, Engine Damage may result...!!! Your 9128-S Thermoquad, appears to be an "800" CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) Model, that should have 1 and 3/8th Inch Diameter Throttle Plates (aka, Butterflies) on the "Primary" Side, which will probably give You some very "Crispy" Throttle Response! (Your Secondary Throttle Plates, should be 2 and 1/4 Inch Diameter ones). The reason, that a "Thick" Gasket is used Between the Bottom of the Thermoquad carburetor, and, the Top of the Intake Manifold, is to "Insulate" the Thermoquad carburetor, from the "Heat", that the Intake Manifold absorbs from the Engine itself. Also, that's the same reason, for the Phenolic Resin (black plastic) Center Section of the Thermoquad as well, in order to keep the Gasoline in the Float Bowls, about 20 Degrees "Cooler", then most other Carburetors, that are made of almost All Metal. "Cooler" Gasoline (and, Cooler Intake Air), makes More Horsepower, and usually More Torque Too! Spacer???....I'm thinkin' that, You might have Changed Your Engine's "Intake Manifold", to the "Square Bore" Type (Square Bore, just means that All "4" Holes in the Top of the Intake Manifold, are All the same size, or the Opening, is kinda Square, if Measured on all 4 sides perhaps), and, You maybe using, what You call a "Spacer" to perhaps, really being Used to "Adapt" Your Thermoquad's "Spread Bore" Configuration (Spread Bore, just means, that, the Primary Throttle Plates are "Smaller" then the Secondary Throttle Plates) to (I'm thinkin') a "Square Bore" Type of Intake Manifold. Is my assumption Correct??? Now, for the Choke, "Thermostatic" (aka, wound up) Bi-Metal Spring. The Type, that I have seen the most, is the Type, that's Installed into the Intake Manifold itself, and, it was usually Equipped with an "Electric Heating Element", all in One Unit. It also had, a ceramic looking, not too big, Rectangular, white-ish Ceramic "Time/Temperature" Control Gadget, that was usually mounted just behind the Themoquad carburetor, and more-so, towards the right hand side, of the intake manifold. In Theory, the Ceramic looking Choke Control gadget, was supposed to "Speed Up", the Opening Rate/Time, of the Choke Plate, in order to "Reduce" Exhaust Emission's, especially when, the Engine was Cold. You will probably find, a setting/measurement, pertaining to the Choke Lever, on the Thermoquad carburetor. The measurement was usually measured from the Bottom of the Thermoquad carburetor, to the "Hole", that is In the Choke Lever (on the side). The Above Choke Lever, "Setting/Measurement", Procedure/Adjustment, should be Shown, on Your Thermoquad carburetor's, Rebuild Kit Instruction Sheet/s. Have a close look at Your "Choke Coil", and see if there is an Adjustment on it (which I doubt, there is, given the year 1979). If You "Do" Install that Spacer (Adapter?), I don't think, that, the Choke Coil's Actuating "Rod" will be "Long" Enough, to even Reach, Your Thermoquad's Choke Plate Actuating "Lever"...!!! (I can see that, in my Crystal Ball...!!!...lol). The only way, that Choke Coil's "Rod" will work, with that Spacer/Adapter, is, to "Splice/Attach", a Middle Section, "To" that "Rod", in order to "Lengthen" It, to the Required/Proper "Length", so it will (I hope), maybe Work, as it should. If You like, let me know, how it's going, and, I'll try to help You out, as best I can. Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you for the advice. They carb is a pretty basic one (identical to your video) at least on the outside. So, I think thats gonna help. The spacer is just that...susposed to give better power. After re-examining I have changed my mind on the spacer anyway. Right now there is only a thin gasket between the carb and manifold. At most I'll try the thicker gasket when I reinstall. As for the choke...its really a Mickey Mouse looking set up. No wires or insulators of any kind. Just the rod, spring and housings. In the worst case I may switch to an electric choke. Thanks again and wish me luck! I'll let you know how it goes.
John Popielarcheck Hi Rocky, Well right now parts are soaking. Again, I can not thank you enough for the guidance. 'Two interesting things I can across during disassemble. Apparently this was rebuilt before by someone that did not watch your videos. One was the S clip was installed backwards, the other more disturbing was I found one of the "c" clips laying on top of one of the special O rings (the one on the passenger side). I couldn't find where it could have been missing from or how the heck it would have ended up there..I can only assume it was put there on purpose. Can you think of a reason this would have been done?
John Popielarcheck Greeting John Popielarcheck....You are welcome, and, It's good to know, that my UA-cam Thermoquad carburetor Videos, are helping You out....That "S-Link", that joins the Accelerator Pump Shaft/Stem, to its Actuating Lever, will probably still work in the Reversed Position, it's just that, I think, "Super-Man" might not appreciate it!...lol....If You look at that "S-Link" Closely, while it is resting on a Flat Surface, You will probably notice that it's Not Flat! (if memory serves me right, that is)....That "C-Clip" (is it that "Bent Wire Type", or ???) that You found, where "It Should Not Be", might Not have been placed there on purpose....Another possibility, might be, that, the Person, that was previously working on Your Thermoquad carburetor, could have had, that "C-Clip"..."Go Flying", when He/She was trying to either, Remove it, or, Install it, on one of the Thermoquad carburetors "Rods/Links" perhaps, and, after it became "Airborn", it so happened, that it "Landed", inside Your Thermoquad carburetors "Float Bowl" (just a Theory, that's all). Usually, a Rebuild Kit, has "New" (bent) Wire Type (if that be the case, that is) "Clips/Retainers" (kinda in a "C" Shape) in it, and, they "Can go Flying", if they Don't get Installed "Very Carefully!" Always Wear "Eye Protection", when Installing or Removing any type of "Spring Type" Clip or Retainer, as these little (censored word) can cause "Eye/Vision" Damage...!!! Make sure, that You "Check" the Float Bowl's "2" Surfaces, where those "2" "X-Rings" (aka, O-Rings, with what look like Grooves on them) make contact with, for Smooth/Flat Surfaces, so those "X-Rings", have the best chance to "Seal" the Air Horn (aka, Thermoquad's Top aluminum casting). Also, "Check" the "2" Parts of the "Air Horn" (Top casting), that go down into the Float Bowl/s, that makes Contact, with the Top of those "2"..."X-Rings", for Smoothness as well. Even the "Factory" can "Change Things" without Notice! I had "2" Different Thermoquad carburetors, with "Different Primary Jet Sizes", then, what I saw "Listed"...!!! In "Both" Thermoquad carburetor's, they were supposed to have .098" (ninety-eight thousandths of an Inch) Orifices/Holes in them. One had .095" Primary Jets in it, and the other one had .096" Primary Jets in it. I'm thinkin', that, the Factory, might have made some Changes, and, those Changes, never made their way to "Print" (Print = Document, Paper, Book, Manual, etc.). I guess that, there is indeed..."Nothing Carved in Stone!"...lol. Till next time... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow Hi Rocky. Well, I completed the rebuild with very few issues thanks to your guidance. The only thing I'm not sure of is the X rings at the bottom of the secondary jets. The ones that came with the Walker brand rebuild kit seem too small. Maybe they spread out when everything is screwed down? I'm having trouble finding a guide the jet #s on line. Here is what I have: 1979 Scout 345 automatic. Primary Jets: 4095 Secondary: 5098 Metering rods: 2273 Does that seem correct? ThankYou as always, John
...Not to worry about the Gas Re-formulation, or other Variables thrown at us, as I always seem to have a way to address such a circumstance/circumstances, as the case may be....I had to Re-Jet a Thermoquad (stock one), just to get it to run at city speeds without jerking back and forth, due to being too Lean on the Primary throttle bores as much as 3 Jet sizes! (.003 Inches or 3 Thousands of an inch per Jet size increase) and, then it ran Smooth, and Powerful from that point onwards!...(con't)
Hey Rocky, where can I get the 2 O rings that go in the fuel bowl? Thats all I need for my TQ right now. I'd rather not buy a whole rebuilt kit just for those 2 little O rings. Thanks, Lee.
+lee isenberg Greetings lee isenberg....Welcome back, and, Thanks for watching..............About the only place, that I recall, that I've seen, just the 2..."X-Rings" (as in, the 2...O-Rings), that go down, into the TQ's Float Bowl, for Sale, can be found, on the Website...Quadrajetparts.com (interesting that...lol)........................Once You get to Their Website, just Select...Carter carburetor/s (thumbnail picture)...then the Thumbnail Picture, of the Thermoquad carb...then, Thermoquad or TQ "Misc", which shows a Thumbnail Picture, of, 2 Throttle Plates/Butterflies...then, You should see a Thumbnail Picture, of, 2 of those "X-Rings" (aka, O-Rings), and the best part, of all of this, is, those...2-"X-Rings"...Only Cost...$2.50 (US Dollars, I assume)...???...........................If You do happen, to Buy anything, over the Internet, be Very Careful, especially, when using, something, like a credit card, so You don't get ripped-off...!!!.....................Good luck, with getting those 2..."X-Rings, and also, I hope that Your Rebuilt Thermoquad..."purrs like a Kitten" (when You want it to), and..."ROARS LIKE A LION"...!!!...when Your Led Foot say so...lol...and............till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you so much sir! Have you ordered anything from the Quadrajetparts.com website?? Hopefully they're legit, they won't be makin' much green money off me either way. Butt then again, I was going to 'splurge' & buy a whooping 4 of those suckers! Whoa that makes a Grrrand total of $5 bucks!
+lee isenberg Greetings lee isenberg....You're welcome, and, No-Sir-ee-Bob...I have not ordered anything from the website in question..........................Maybe, check around, on the Internet, or some Website Forums, for any Reviews, or the like......................If any of the Part/s Sellers are on E-Bay, there is usually, oh, shall we say, a Customer, Feed-Back Score, posted, somewhere, near the Top of the Page/on the right side, of the Parts Page, that You are Viewing on E-Bay, expressed In %, or Per-cent, damn-it...How many out of 100...lol................Check out PayPal, for making any On-Line Purchases, cuz, from what I gather, the PayPal System, is kinda like the Middle-Man, and usually helps-out, both, the Seller and the Buyer, should some, oh, shall we say, Un-Happy-ness, happen to materialize, so to speak.........................A Friend of mine, was tellin' me, when He first, joined-up with PayPal, there was Only a Low amount of Money, that they will Provide for Sales Transactions, for starters, and it wasn't enough Money, to cover the Bid, that He wanted to make, on the E-Bay Item, that He wanted.................Then, I guess, that, the PayPal Folks, would probably Increase the Amount of Money, available to You, after some time passes by, and You Prove to be Paying on time, I guess............Some other Websites, for Thermoquad stuff, are, (I think?) Ninja Fuel Systems, and possibly, as I've read somewhere, Walker Industries, perhaps...???.....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I had to have, a $35.00 (Canadian Dollar) Part, Shipped to the Parts Place, where I buy, some of my Auto-Parts from, cuz, their warehouse, was out of stock, and, the Shipping Cost, for that, not so big package, Cost me...$60.00...!!!...Yikes...!!!..........................Maybe only $2.50 or $5.00, for Your 2 or 4 X-Rings...But...what will the Total Cost Be, after the Shipping is Added-On...???..................Make sure, that You're Sitting Down, when You Read The Bill...!!!...lol............till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+lee isenberg Greetings lee isenberg....So, You took a look at those 2 Thermoquad carbs, Sitting on Top of That High Rise Apartment Building, did Ya...lol...............Next time, You want to Impress the Ladies, have a look at that Video again, just to prove to them, that, Size (really) Matters, oh, and, make sure, that, Your..."Hood-is-Closed", as well...!!!...lol................till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
barryismygod Greetings barryismygod....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well.....................................You were asking..."If, Thermoquads and Quadrajets are Interchangable"...???........................Indeed they are...but...in all actuality, there's quite a bit more to it, then just having the "4" Bolt Holes "Lining Up" (that be, through the Carb Base...then the Gasket...and on, through to the Intake Manifold itself)...............................................I have come across some Carburetor Sales Establishments on the Internet, in the past, where they are sayin', something along the lines of, a "Quadrajet" being a "Replacement" for a "Thermoquad" alright.................................................What I have sitting in front of me at the moment, happens to be "2" Gaskets that go between the "Bottom of the Carburetor"...and...the "Top of the Intake Manifold", on a "V-8 Engine", and "1" of them is for the "Rochester Quadrajet 4-Barrel Carburetor"...and the Other One, is for a "Carter Thermoquad 4-Barrel Carburetor"............................................The "4", shall we say..."Bolt Holes" (One on Each Corner), In/on these..."2"..."Gaskets"..."Do Line Up"....with "Each Other"...so, as far as "Installing/Attaching", either of the "2" Carburetors that were just previously mentioned, to the "Existing Intake Manifold", that's probably already Installed on the Engine in question, should work, just fine (be sure to check, if the Bolts, or (threaded) Studs, are the Correct Length, for the Carburetor being Installed)........................................Here are a few "Things", that have to be Considered, when-ever, Interchanging/Installing (aka, One, for the Other), as it pertains to, these "2" particular "4-Barrel Carburetors".............................................Use the "Exact Gasket" (that goes between the Bottom of the Carb, and the Top of the Intake manifold), as in..."Quadrajet Gasket, for the Quadrajet Carb"...and the..."Thermoquad Gasket, for the Thermoquad Carb".............................................Each Gasket is about 1/4 Inch, or Thicker, there-abouts....................................................Make sure, that the "Gasket" that is being used...and the "Opening", in the "Top of the Intake Manifold"..."Does-Not Come in Contact-with"...the..."Primary or Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies"..."Preventing Them", from Opening, all the way, to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), and also, to..."Make Sure", that "Those Throttle Plates/Butterflies"..."Are Able to Close All the Way Down/Shut" as Well...!!!.............................................."Make Sure", that there "Is" a "Good and Strong, Throttle Lever/Primary Throttle Shaft"..."RETURN SPRING", Installed, as It is "Imperative", in "Making Sure", that the Carburetors "Throttle Valves/Butterflies..."Return to, the Engine's Idle Speed"...when-ever You take Your Foot, Off of the Gas Pedal"...!!!..........................................The Fuel Line "Connection Point", on the Quadrajet is usually located at the Front of the Carb...where-as..."It's at the Rear, on the Thermoquad Carb"...................................................The "Throttle Lever" (on the Quadrajet's, Primary Throttle Shaft), that the "Gas Pedal Cable"..."Connects" to, "Is" quite a bit "Different", from the "Thermoquad's Throttle Lever" (that's also, part of Its primary throttle shaft), and, presumably, we are talking "Automatic Transmission" as well, and, if that be the case, then, the "Quadrajet" usually had an Automatic Transmission, Control "Cable", that got "Pulled", by the part of the "Throttle Lever" (that's part of the Quadrajets, primary throttle shaft), that "Extends Below", the "Primary Throttle Shaft" itself, when-ever the Gas Pedal gets stepped on...where-as...with the "Thermoquad's"..."Method", of "Actuating the Automatic Transmission's Control Device"...was usually, a "Stiff, rather Ridged Multi-Part Linkage", if You will, that was actually "Pushed" by the, shall we say "Pin, or Round Metal Bar", that was Part of, the Thermoquad's "Primary Throttle Lever", when-ever the Gas Pedal was Pushed-on, and..."Its Actuation Point, was Above the Primary Throttle Shaft"...!!!.................................................Also..."Make Sure"...that the "Intake Manifold" has the "Needed Clearance", for "Any Part", that is "Found Below"...the..."Bottom of the Carburetor"...Especially, concerning the Quadrajet's...Throttle Lever, where it Connects to the Automatic Transmission's, "Control Cable"...just sayin'.....................................................Then, the Carburetor's "Choke", has to be taken into consideration................................................If "It" happens to be, One of those "Units", that has the "Bi-Metallic, Coiled-up, Choke Spring, contained with-in the Housing, that is already Mounted on the Carburetor..."Start Celebrating"...!!! (less work that way)...but, more-so, if it has an "Electric Heater", inside of it, as the "Hot Air Type", will probably need some metal Tubing/Pipe, to take the Manifold Heat, up to "It"...................................................."If" the Carburetor being Installed, has, what is commonly called, a "Divorced Style" of "Choke" (meaning, that the Bi-Metallic, wound up choke coil spring, is Installed, in the Factory/Stock, Intake Manifold, as opposed to, being Mounted on the Carburetor itself), then, it might have to have some "Custom Modifications", to make "It" work, as "It" Should (probably because of, Carburetor, choke Lever/linkage, connection point, height differences)................................................If Your Vehicle, happens to have, the "Vacuum Booster Assisted"...type of..."Power Brakes", then, the "Vacuum Source", has to be Located as well.................................................Then, don't forget, Any "Vacuum Devices and Hoses/Pipes"...as well as..."Any"...Electric Wiring, that needs to be looked at as well, due to Any "Differences", that may be found, Between these "2"-Carburetors........................................I'll end all of this, with, the "Air Cleaner Housing/Air Filter"... "Has to Fit the Carburetor Properly"..........and...........Last, but not least..."Make Sure"...that there is..."CLEARANCE"..."Between"...the...Top of the Air Filter Housing or Unit..."BEFORE"...You..."SLAM the HOOD SHUT"...or..."Look Ma"..."See the..."Custom BULGE"...that I made, when I..."Closed the Damn HOOD"...!!!...lol..................................................As You can probably see by now, talking about doing something like this, is one thing, but actually..."Doing It"...is a whole..."Different Animal".............................Always remember..."Ladies and Gentlemen"................."Look Before You Leap"...!!! (yes Deer...lol)....................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hello Rocky. Thank you for good and quick feed back. I think maybe I'm driving on wrong gasoline. The gasoline I have used have some bioetanol, about 5%. I will also check my ignition again. I have changed floaters, and the choke valves seems to work as it should. I havent done anything with the main jets and rods. It can be that the main jets and rods are sized for the 440 engine . Do you now what size of main jets and rods that will be right for the 360 EH1 High performance motor? I don't now what they have done with the carburetor before I bought the car. And yes, I'm very satisfied to get a Dodge Li'l Red Express 1979. I imported the Truck from Fort Lauderdale last year. There are 2 more just some mils away. Regarding our ski skills. It's a statement that the we Norwegians are born with skis on our feets. So it could be the reason. Take care and best regads Bjorn
Greetings Bjorn Aasvik....The Gasoline "Blend", with all of the Different "Formulation's", including the amount of "Ethanol" (aka, Alcohol), that might be in the Gasoline, in Different Places "World-Wide", is Only "1", of quite a few Different Things, that can effect, just how well, any Carburetor will "Perform"....The "Altitude" (aka, At or Above Sea Level), has a great Effect, on how a Carburetor will administer the "Air/Fuel Ratio", if in fact, the Carburetor in question, Does Not have an "Altitude Compensating Device" on it! I would highly recommend, that You Install a Brand New "Choke Pull-Off" on Your Thermoquad carburetor. . The reason being, that, the "Old" Choke Pull-Off, would probably (in most cases) allow the Proper, "Choke Plate" Actuation (aka, Vacuum Kick), but, that "Choke Pull-Off", has to be the "Best", and "New" as Possible, because of the very "Sensitive" nature, of the way in which it "Controls" the "Opening Rate" of the Secondary Air Valve! Just think for a minute... That "Diaphragm", that is Inside Your Choke Pull-Off, is usually made of a Rubber Like Material, and, it usually "Deteriorates" with "Heat" and "Age", and that alone, usually causes the "Rate of Actuation" of the Secondary Air Valve, to be less then Specified, by the Engineers that Originally Designed it. Another thing to consider, while we are on the Subject of "Diaphragm's", is, it is also, just as "Important", to have a Like New "Vacuum Advance Canister" (aka, that space-ship looking device, that is usually Attached to Your Engine's Distributor), that "Controls", the "Amount" of Vacuum Advance, as well as, at what Vacuum Level it Starts and Finishes at. It is "Very Important" (for Stock Un-Modified Engines), that the Vacuum Advance "Canister", be the "Correct One", for the Model/Number for that Particular "Distributor", as there are "So Many" Different Vacuum Advance Canisters, that were made, for So Many "Different" Engine Application's!!! Also, The "Choke Pull-Off", has to be the "Correct One", that goes with, that Particular Thermoquad carburetor's Model Number (aka, usually with the "4" Numbers, with the Letter "S" at the end). The Best place, that I have found on the Internet, for Thermoquad carburetor's, Jet and Metering Rod "Sizes", goes by the name...Vaanths Guide...and some Forum Websites, hopefully, will still have a Link to that Information. I have found on "2" Different Thermoquad's, that, there should have been .098" (98 Thousandth's of an Inch) Primary Jet's Installed in them, at the factory. One of those Thermoquad's had .095" (95 Thousandth's of an Inch) Primary Jets and the Other One had... .096" (96 Thousandth's of an Inch) Primary Jets. I'm pretty sure, that, those Primary Jets were Factory Installed, and, they may have made that "Change", Without "Updating the Specifications" in Print. You will probably Find, that some Thermoquad..."Jet and Metering Rod" Sizes/Numbers, will "Not be Shown", when You Look-Up those Sizes, for some of the Thermoquad's. That 9226-S Thermoquad, Was Not Showing, those Sizes. It appears that the 9226-S happens to be an "800-CFM" Thermoquad, due to it having 1 and 3/8 Inch (diameter) Primary Throttle Plates... ...where-as... ...that 9036-S Thermoquad, happens to be an "850-CFM" Thermoquad, due to it having 1 and 1/2 Inch (diameter) Primary Throttle Plates. Both Thermoquad's (and most other ones too, but, there are exceptions), happen to have 2 and 1/4 Inch (diameter) Secondary Throttle Plates. Once, just about "Any" Carburetor, is Set-Up, and Dialed-In, for the Gasoline being used, and, "Everything Else", including Ignition Timing, etc., will make for one "Very Powerful, and "Great Running" Engine, and the Real "Fun", is trying to find out, just how, and what needs to be done... ...to make that Engine, Nice and Happy! Good Luck Bjorn... ...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
A good place to start to look for prices for Thermoquads is that Famous internet site called...................."E-BAY!"..................Best of luck with finding out what the value of your Thermoquad is.............Thermoquads have been used on Chryslers, Dodges, Plymouths, and a few on International Harvestors, and even a Ford!..........Did I miss any?................Take care, and have a nice day!
Great info! you definitely know your carbs! I build these good ol' T-Q's for all different types of applications. I have many parts for these phenolic resin beauties. there are many little functions that you should take care to address on the re-build such as: metering rod piston height, accelerator pump height adjustment, secondary air valve adjustment, secondary butterfly adjustment, as well as a few more features that I will leave to the imagination ;) wanna get 1,000+ CFM's? I can do it!
...Also, the Gasoline of today is about 3% Leaner than it was in the 70's....Given the way that the New Gas is formulated, and Evaporates very fast due to carburetors with all-metal construction heating up, the Thermoquad having a float bowl made of Phenolic Resin, has the ability to keep the fuel about 20 Degrees cooler, helping the fuel to stay in liquid form, where it will do the most good....The Eddie is an ok carb, but it's not as refined as a Thermoquad...
Greetings....Ron Cook...........Thanks for watching...........Well, most of the vehicle's engines, that I worked on, that had to "pass" the smog test, had a (carburetor) "ported" vacuum advance (signal), which prevented the vacuum advance can/canister, from, advancing the ignition timing..."only at curb idle speed"...otherwise, it worked just the same as, intake "manifold vacuum", when-ever the RPM's were above curb idle speed..........If I took the vacuum advance can/canister "hose", and switched it from "ported" to intake "manifold vacuum", a big "Fail", at the smog testing establishment, (while being tested, at curb idle speed), it will most likely be..........So yeah, the only difference between (carburetor) "ported" and (intake) "manifold vacuum", is "only", at curb idle speed, because the carburetor's primary throttle plate/or plates, as the case may be, kinda act-like, a shut-off "valve", if you will (so many people get confused about that)...........The real fun, starts to happen, when trying to modify, something like a distributor, that has a "smog" specified, ignition advance curve, and then, changing the mechanical advance curve, into a performance type of ignition advance curve, say what...???...well, if, and when-ever that modification ever takes place, then, Ya really got to do your homework, when it comes to, trying to figure out, just how much vacuum advance is needed, and when it is to be deployed, cuz, if Ya get it wrong, you'll probably be hearing quite a bit of "pinging", while just tryin' to cruise along..........In North America, there are so many different, factory, vacuum advance can/canisters, for a given type of distributor, that have, different amounts/degrees, of distributor (vacuum) advance, along with, where they start to deploy, and, where they reach their full limit (of travel), not to mention, some of the performance/aftermarket..."adjustable"...vacuum advance cans/canisters, that are out there as well...........I'm with Ya, as far as, intake "manifold vacuum" is concerned, when it comes to having, the most efficient amount of vacuum advance, while at (curb) idle speed, other-wise, like I was sayin' before, the...(carburetor) Ported vacuum (signal), and, (intake) manifold vacuum (signal), are the..."same"....when the engine's RPM's are "above" (curb) idle speed...........The, shall we say, "goal", is to get the peak combustion pressure, to occur, at approx....15 Degrees...Past/After TDC (Top Dead Center) there-abouts, so, the RPM's, engine Load, naturally aspirated (carbureted), turbo-charged, super-charged, type of fuel being used, etc., all have to be taken into consideration, to have the spark plug's "spark" occur, at the needed/precise moment, so that, good ole "peak" combustion pressure, occurs at the most efficient/power producing time/amount of crankshaft degrees, past TDC (Top Dead Center)...........So then, there Ya have it, well, for now, that is, and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
i ment to say how much does these cost cuase i have a thermoquad 4bbl carb and i dont know much about it but it looks like it will work and are they use for a dodge plymouth? thanks
hi george here, can you help for years i had early falcons with 302,s and 351,s and i ran the thermoquad carby,s and they ran very well , i tryd runnung 600 to 750 holleys but the thermoquad had better power and fuel economy , but what i would like to know is i,ve built a 408 cleveland stroker motor it,s got 4v alloy heads it,s got a big lumpy cam a msd ignition extractors do you think the thermoquad would give it enough fuel , do you rebuild the thermoquad carbys i have and old carby that came off a 351 cleveland but it,s been sitting for 12 months it needs a rebuild kit putting in it if you can help it will be great thanks george.
George Flakemore Greetings George Flakemore....Thanks for watching, and for Your Comment/Questions as well.....................................................I have good news for You, in that, I should be able to provide, plenty of Information, Tips and Tricks, and, last but not least, the "Many"...Carter..."Thermoquad"...Videos, that I have..."Already Made"...that You can "Find" on my "UA-cam Channel"...RockysRoadshow...(I lost count, on how many I have at the current moment, Hmmmmm,...must be about "20" or More..."Thermoquad" Carburetor Videos...???..........................................................Some of them, are Information related, while another "Set" of them, will actually, Focus, in, on the "Rebuild" Procedure, that I use, along with some, shall we say..."Do's and Don'ts, if You will...lol...............................................................You can, just Type, in the UA-cam "Search Bar/Field/Box...either...Thermoquad...or My UA-cam Channel's Name...RockysRoadshow...which should take You, right to my UA-cam Channel Page, where You should find, about "80" Videos, most of which, happen to be..."Automotive Related"...enjoy, My Friend.........................................................I also, had a...1972...Ford..."351 Cleveland-V-8 Engine"...a while back, that had a...Model 2100 2-Barrel Motorcraft Carburetor, on top of the Intake Manifold...but...for that particular Year, the..."351 Windsor"...had quite a bit More Horse-Power...(same Carburetor as well...!!!)...Yikes!!!...lol...................................................................From, what I recall, the Mid-1970's Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth..."440 Cubic Inch (displacement)..."Big Block"..."Factory High Performance...V-8's"...had..."Factory Installed"..."850 CFM (CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute...Flow Rating)..."Thermoquad Carburetors"...sitting on Top of "Their"...Intake Manifolds, and as I see it, an..."850 CFM Thermoquad Carburetor"...shouldn't have, any problem at all..."Supplying"...Your..."408 Cubic Inch Stroker Engine"...providing, that, the Thermoquad Carburetor, that You might be Installing on Your Engine, is..."Set-Up"...and..."Calibrated"...for, not only Your Engine's "Requirements", but, maybe even, More Importantly, for the "Gasoline", that You'll be putting in Your Vehicle's Gas Tank, if, and I'm quite sure, will probably have some..."Ethanol" (aka, Alcohol, sometimes, derived from Corn)... Added to the Gasoline, in about the 10% Range perhaps...???....................................................A few Years ago, this..."Ethanol" Stuff, that was added to the Gasoline, where I drive, made a Thermoquad Carburetor of mine, start to..."Lean Surge"...kinda like having the Car...Jerk, or Buck, back and forth, while, just going city speed, on a level road, and having the Gas Pedal, in a Fixed, and not moving position................................................................I had to..."Increase the Size"...of my..."2 Primary Jets"...from .095" to .104" (aka, ninety-five thousandths of an inch, up to, one hundred and four, thousandths of an inch, and, in .003" or three thousandths of an inch Increments, each time) in order to "Stop that Lean Surge", and, after I did the Jet Size Increase, my factory installed, 850 CFM Thermoquad...had my factory high performance, 360 cubic incher...just-a-rippin'...like it never had before...!!!................................................I have a "How to Read Spark Plugs" Video, on My UA-cam Channel...and...the Spark Plug, that You see, as it appears in the..."Thumbnail Picture"..for that very Video..."IS"...One of the Spark Plugs, with that...nice "Light/Medium-Tan-Color" on it, that came out of My Engine, right after I did that Thermoquad carburetor Jet Increase/Change, and Drove, for, oh, about 50 Miles or more, if memory serves me right, that is................................................................No matter..."What Brand/Make of Carburetor"...that You decide to Use, on Your "408"...with the..."Lumpy Camshaft"...in it, that You were talking about..."Make Absolutely Sure"...that You..."Don't Screw-In, the Idle Speed Screw or Idle Speed Solenoid"..."Too Much/Too many Turns In"...to keep Your Engine from Stalling...or...the Carburetor's..."Transition/Transfer Slots"...will be..."Exposed Too Much"...while being..."Viewed from the Bottom of the Carburetor"...!!!..........................................................If You do, what will usually happen, is, the Engine will start "Idling" on the "Primary Main Jets Circuit", which will usually, make the Engine run, "Way Too Rich" (air/fuel ratio-wise), which in turn, will probably make Your eyes and nose water, and, probably, coat, all of Your Engines Spark Plugs, with black Carbon...!!!................................................Some Folks (aka, People), used "Advanced" Ignition Timing, to Avoid the..."Expose-the-Transfer-Slots-too-much-Problem", but, if You happen to use that "Method", You'll have to be very Careful, to, "Not Over-Advance-the-Ignition-Timing", at any Engine RPM's (Revolutions per Minute), especially, when, You are doing a heavy Acceleration, or, when-ever the Engine is under a "Heavily Loaded Condition", or, Your Engine might get "Damaged or Destroyed"...!!!............................................Another "Method", that some, shall we say...."Hot-Rodders" did/performed, was to Drill a Small Hole, in each of the 2 Primary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, in order to...Provide some "Bypass Air", so, the Throttle Plates/Butterflies..."Would Not"...have to be Opened Up Too Far, with the Idle Speed Screw or Idle Speed Solenoid, which, as I indicated earlier, would result in, having the Carburetors..."Transition/Transfer Slots, Opened-Up too Much"...!!!....................................................When the Carburetor is Viewed from the Bottom, and when the Idle Speed is "Set" Correctly (as it should be, when it was on the Hot and Idling Engine), and, with the Choke Fully Off, and the Big Fast Idle Screw, is Clear of all of the Fast Idle Lever's (cam) Steps, the "Idle Transfer, or Transition Slots", should be Showing, a, somewhat "Square Shape", or, if its "Shape", happens to be, that of a noticeable "Rectangle", that, as I see it, will usually be Tellin' me, that, the Carburetor, just might be, starting to "Draw, an, Air/Fuel Mixture, from the Primary (jets) Circuit", and..."Should Not Be Doing This"....When, the Engine, is just at..."Idle Speed" (and, when the Engine is Fully warmed Up, as well)....................................................I find, that, it's a good idea, "Before" the Carburetor...Gets "Installed", on the Intake Manifold, to put a "Mark, of some kind (Dab of Paint, perhaps?), on the "Idle Speed Screw", and, see, just "How Many Turns of that Screw, and partial Turns" as well, that it Takes, From, where the Throttle Plates/Butterflies are Fully Closed against the Primary Throttle Bores, to where, it needs to be, in order to have that "Idle Transfer Slot, or, call it a Transition Slot", if You like, to make that "Square Shape", as Viewed from the Bottom of the Carburetor, that I was Talkin' about, that way, You'll..."Actually Know"...just "Where, and in What Position", the "Primary Throttle Plates/Butterflies", are..."Actually At", seeing as how, You, Other Folks, and Myself..."Are Not Able To Actually "See", where they happen to be, once, that Good ole Carburetor, gets, Bolted/Nutted to the Engine's Intake Manifold...!!!..................................................."Some, After-Market, High Performance Carburetor Manufacturers/Brands, have a, shall we say..."Idle Air Bypass" Adjustment, already Designed, and Incorporated in "Them", that will provide, that Extra, and Needed, While at Idle Speed..."Bypass Air"............................................................"Make Sure, that You have Plenty of Fresh Air and Ventilation, around Your Vehicle, when-ever Your Engine is Running, because..."Engine Exhaust Fumes are Deadly"...!!!....................................................I'm guessing, that, Your Vehicle..."Does Not" have to be Smog/Emissions Tested, is that correct...???....................................................Usually, Engines that have "Aggressive/Lumpy" Camshafts..."Will Not"...be able to..."Pass the Smog/Emissions Test", and even, something, like, having, One or Two "Three-Way Catalytic Converter/s", in the Exhaust System, is, as I've already experienced..."Still Won't" be able to "Reduce", all of those "Lumpy-Camshaft-Caused-Excessive-Exhaust-Emissions'...Enough, in order To "Pass", and, being that "Rich", will probably Ruin the Cat, or Cats (Cat is short for Catalytic Converter), due to, Overloading the Cat or Cats, with, as I see it...Excessive Hydrocarbons, and maybe Carbon Monoxide Levels as well, and, maybe Excessive NOX (Oxides of Nitrogen), depending on Ignition Timing Advance, and, just how "Hot", Peak Flame Temperature actually gets, at that...!!!................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, this, shall we say, Automotive Hobby of mine, has filled my head, with some pretty interesting stuff alright...lol..........................................................I'll end this episode, with..........................................................The "Choke, Bi-Metal, Coiled-up, Thermostatic Spring", and what to be watchin' out for...............................................................Depending on, just...Which?"...Intake Manifold, that You'll be Installing, on top of, Your "408" Engine, will be the determining factor, on, just How, the Choke Linkage, on Your Thermoquad carburetor, will get "Actuated"......................................................There was Only "One" Thermoquad carburetor, that I can think of, that actually "Had", the "Choke Coil Housing"..."Mounted"...on the "Side", of One particular Thermoquad carburetor "Model", and that particular Thermoquad carburetor, was made/designed, for a "Ford 460 Cubic inch V-8 Engine", if, memory serves me right, that is?................................................................If Push, happens to come to Shove (I just be addin' in some Fun!...lol)...as it pertains, to something like, You Installing an After-Market Performance Intake Manifold, on Your "408", then, if, the Thermoquad carb, that You might be using, will probably have the "Divorced Style" of Thermostatic Choke Coil and Actuating Rod, that Mounts, down in a "Cavity", in/on, the Factory Stock, Cast Iron Intake Manifold, and, the After-Market, Intake Manifolds...most likely..."Will Not"...have that...Choke Coil "Cavity" in them...!!!....................................................I'm sure, that I'll be able to give You some..."Information/Design thoughts"...if, You happen to, want to, maybe, make-up, a..."Manual Choke Control"...for Your Thermoquad carb, if need be..............................................................If, and when, You do, decide to, use and Install a Thermoquad carburetor on Your "408", make sure, that You get a hold of, an..."850 CFM" Model, as there were also..."800 CFM" Models out there as well...!!!.....................................................The "850 CFM Thermoquads" had...1 and 1/2 Inch Diameter, Primary Throttle Bores...where-as...the, "800 CFM Thermoquads" had...1 and 3/8ths Inch Diameter, Throttle Bores...!!! (Bores = Round Holes)................................................Both, the "850-CFM"...and the..."800-CFM"...Thermoquad carburetors had..."2 and 1/4 Inch Diameter Secondary Throttle Bores...just sayin'......................................................"For starters, please let me know, weather or not, Your Vehicle, has to go through the "Smog/Emissions Test", as that will make, or break, Your "408's" Future.......................................................If You are going to be using a Thermoquad carburetor, on Your "408", do You have one already...???...and...if so, have a look-see, on the..."Left Rear, at the Bottom" of Your Thermoquad Carb, where You should be able to see...4 Numbers, that are usually Followed by the Letter "S", as that will be tellin', both, You and I, what we are dealing with!.......................................................Have a close look, at the Thermoquad Carburetor, that I'm using, for all of my UA-cam, Thermoquad carburetor Videos....................................................That's basically what I would be looking for, as the Thermoquad, that happens to be the "Star of the Show" (aka, all of my UA-cam Thermoquad carburetor Videos), and, happens to be as "Simple" as "They get", for the very reason, that, the "Later Made Thermoquad Models", became "Decorated" with, quite a few..."Emissions Gadgets", and are probably "Calibrated Way Too Lean" (air/fuel Ratio-wise), for an Engine, such as Yours!!!................................................Have a Look-See, at My UA-cam Channel, and, perhaps watch the Thermoquad Videos that I have made, so far, as, I'm sure, just like other Folks, You too, will Learn, Lots, about, our good, and not forgotten Friend..."The Thermoquad"...................................If You have any Questions or Concern's at all, pertaining, to just about "Anything-Under-the-Sun"...lol...just leave a Comment or Two, under Any, of My UA-cam Videos, and, Time-permitting, I'll, do what I can, to help You out.........................................................'till next time...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...The Eddie only has 2-step metering rods, where-as the Thermoquad has 3-steps...Eddies metering rods are controlled only by Vacuum, where-as the Thermoquad has both Vacuum and a "Step-up" Cam on the primary throttle shaft, letting the driver go to a Richer air/fuel mixture on demand with the gas pedal....Also, those aftermarket carb websites warn you about not being "Emissions" Compliant, unless they happen to offer an Emissions Compliant carb model!...Emission Testing in your area?...
...Hopefully your Thermoquad looks much like the one that you see in my videos, because, that is as simple as they can be....At first, I was rather Intimidated by the mere presents of the Thermoquad sitting on top of my engine....Now, I find the Thermoquad so easy to work on, and re-Calibrate/Adjust, now that I'm able to analyze the "Nature of the Beast!"...lol...Please let me know how it's going with your Jensen, and, I'll help you out, if possible....Good luck, and, take care, my Friend.
...Oh no, watch out Philip, I'm on a roll!...lol...Nah, just needed to loosen up a little bit, that's all....Now, on a more serious note, I was just thinking....You had mentioned that you were going to modify your Jensen, and go Fuel Injection?....I know I'm not you, but, If I had a Jensen (Yours!), and, if that Jensen wasn't modified too much already (Body, Chassis, and Drive-train), then I would most certainly retain, and re-build that Thermoquad!....Got you thinking huh?...lol...Take care.
i got an 83 D150 with a 318 that has a thermoquad on it thats a piece of shit. I had the carb professionally rebuilt and took it to a mechanic to have it tuned but i gotta crank on it for about a minute for it to fire up. In my opinion thermoquads are a piece of shit. I took a look at the build sheet behind the seat that was remarkably still there and it came from the factory with a 850cfm thermoquad. WHen im at a stop sign and i let on the gas it chokes itsellf out and stalls. then i gotta go back to cranking. its just crap in my opinion
Greetings...Cooper Listul...........Thanks for watching...........Well, here are a few things, for your consideration..........The earlier Carter Thermoquads, were probably the best ones, as in, up to about 1974, and, there was also a Truck Thermoquad, that went, from about 1974 to about 1977, as well, and here's why...........They were usually calibrated (jetted) with a decent, air/fuel ratio, using 100% Gasoline (not the Ethanol/alcohol stuff, that's usually seen today, which makes for, just about any carburetor, to run on the lean side), and didn't have much in the way of additional "smog gadgets", as compared to, the later/newer Thermoquad models, tend to have, such as your 1983 might have, and also, some of the ones, like yours, will probably be, some-what leaned-out (air/fuel ratio wise), as well, possibly............The only problem that I had with a new Thermoquad (circa-1974), wasn't even the Thermoquad's fault, as it happened to be, the "electric assist", heated, coiled-up choke spring, that sat down into, the V-8's intake manifold...........That darn, electric assist, warming element, would usually heat-up, the coiled up choke spring, a bit too soon, on a cold day, causing my engine to stall, if I were to stop, just a few blocks from home, but, once the engine warmed-up to operating temperature, that particular Thermoquad carb, sure performed awesomely, and then some...!!!..........Sometimes, when a Thermoquad carb, gets older (and, just like most of the other Carbs out there), then, parts tend to get dirty, and/or, worn out as well, and, I had one of those "nitrophyl" (looks like black plastic) floats, start to absorb gasoline, causing it to sink a bit, which made one side of the Thermoquad, to run way too Rich (air/fuel ratio), oh, and, there are also, (hollow) Brass Floats, that can be purchased as well (might just be, a few dollars, difference in price)...........When it comes to rebuilding, setting-up, or making adjustments, to a Thermoquad carb, then, it's very important, to make those Adjustments, in the Correct "Sequence", as in, the Order of making the adjustments, that can usually be found, in a Factory service manual, or, on a Thermoquad, Rebuild Kit's, "instruction sheet", most times........If certain Adjustments, are "Not", done in the "Correct Order", then, what usually happens, is that, some of the Other Adjustments (settings), will get messed up, and then, the Thermoquad carb, doesn't work all that well..........A person, can be really good with other Carburetors, but won't be so good, with a Thermoquad, unless, He or She, takes the time, to study & understand, how all of the Thermoqad's..."linkages & levers"..."etc"...interact/function, as well as, how one particular, adjustment or setting...Affects...any of the other ones, kinda like..."Tying your Shoes"..."Before"..."You put them on your Feet"...!!!...lol (how's that for an example...???)...lol...but, it kinda compares, because, it just doesn't work right (or, at all...lol).........If an engine, that has a Carburetor on it, hasn't been running for a few days or more (weeks or months, maybe), then, here's what I've been doing, for, a very, very long time..........With the vehicle in a well ventilated (fresh air) location (because exhaust gas is Deadly...!!!), I remove the air cleaner housing's Lid, and set it aside...then...I take my little squirt bottle, with a few ounces of gasoline in it, and squirt a couple of table-spoons, of gasoline, into each, of the 2 front/primary throttle bores, while holding open, the choke plate (flap), with the other hand...then...I replace the air cleaner housing's Lid (in case of a back-fire)...then...the engine will usually start, and, if not, just repeat the "Prime" (squirt the gasoline into the Carburetor) routine, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...Also, whenever something like a Thermoquad sits dormant for an extended period of time, things tend to get, well, shall we say, gummed up....Old, stale gas, when it evaporates usually leaves behind a hardened Varnish type of glue, if you will, possibly restricting fuel, or air bleed passages, causing a bad running vehicle....Oh, and, the Gasoline Re-finers/Companies have Reformulated our Gasoline!....The Carburetors of the past were calibrated using the "Good Old Gas!", now Un-Leaded (con't)
I'm very excited to start this series. Thank you for it! '78 360 Adventurer
LOL! definitely a SUPER BEE my friend! I run a modified T-Q on the original 383 HP on the bee. had to add the Edelbrock RPM intake for the spread-bore conversion, but man, you can't find that kind of power with any other carb!
Yes, the choke set-up can always be a fun process. I usually end up having to bend a link or 2 to make it purr like it should on initial start-up. every little mod you make, seems to effect the opening or closing diameter of the choke valve, if even just a tad.
Hello Lee......Talk about a small World......The Thermoquad that I spent 99.9% of the time working on, was on a.....1974 Challenger Rallye, with all the go fast goodies for that year..... 360 Cubic Inch V8...(245 Net HP and 320 Ft Lbs of Torque), Dual Exhaust, 3.55 Sure Grip Axle, Heavy Duty everything, Sway Bars front and rear, and No air conditioning....It was an 850 CFM Thermoquad that was designed and calibrated for the A-833 4-Speed "Standard" Transmission.....Thanks for your Nice Comment!
Best carb ever
@MrComanche87 Thanks for your kind comment! I have used the "Hygrade" brand in the past. Try to get a kit that has a "Brass" accelerator pump check valve in it. Make sure the two little "O-Rings" that sit in the float bowl look and feel like black rubber with what look like grooves on the surfaces. Buy 2 new floats. Also buy the big thick Carburetor to Manifold gasket. Don't soak the black phenolic float bowl in Carb Cleaner! Follow the set-up instructions in the correct sequence!
Fantastic video and great explanation. Rebuilding and tuning a Thermoquad right now. What a great carb! Thanks for making this!
The gentleman with the Dodge "C R/T" did send me a message saying that the Muscle Car in question is/was a "CORONET", and it first saw the pavement around 1967, if I recall correctly.........If I may, I would like to suggest that you folks that like seeing Classic/Vintage cars or trucks, see if you can find some older movies that had Cars or Trucks that you are most interested in, and see them while they were being driven, or even seeing them parked on the street in the movie! : )
By the way I have a 1979 Dodge B300 with a Lazy Daze motorhome attached. It's got a 360 V8 with the 4 bb thermoquad.
Rocky, I just wanted to say thanks pal for this video. I'm on tour with a rock band and I needed to rebuild the carb on our 78 dodge rv 440ci and these videos saved my ass. took, me 2 solid days, non stop.
you describe everything very nicely, I applaud your work and my last comment will be, you deserve a million dollars!
with your "lean drop" technique, my Carter thermoquad, sounds like a monster!! very aggressive sounding and strong!
thanks k u so much for all of your hardwork!!
Greetings...Cb BroWnN...........You're welcome, and, thanks kindly, for your very nice comment too, oh, and...Congratulations, for doin', a mighty-fine rebuild job, on your RV's Thermoquad carb............Hmmm...does your freshly rebuilt, Carter Thermoquad's..."Sound"...with all 4-Barrels open, compare to that, of a "100 Watt Head" (aka, amplifier), set @ Full Volume, while sitting on top of 2...4X12...Marshall or Mesa Boogie Cabinets...while the Git-tar-ist, is slamming the guitar's strings, while playing a really Hefty..."Power Cord"...??? (No-Sir-ee-Bob, not the extension cord kind...!!!...lol)...well...??? (just kidding...lol)...........Gotta love the sound of a Tube Amp, when it just starts going into "Clip" (or what-ever)...........Sometimes, the Choke Pull-off (that little thing, that's on the side of the TQ/Thermoquad, that looks, kind-like, a little space-ship, can, at times, cause some problems, just so Ya know..........There's usually, a rubber-like Diaphragm, hiding inside of that Choke Pull-Off, which will usually deteriorate, with heat & age, and if not working so well, it, can at times, become quite Sticky (as in, not move very smoothly), and/or, get Stuck sometimes...........I found this out, with a Thermoquad, a while back, while I was trying to go W.O.T. (as in, Wide Open Throttle...Pedal to the Metal), and the engine was Coughing/Sounding really Sick, and, I had to back out of the throttle really quick...........That Choke Pull-Off, usually performs 2 Tasks, as in, "it" will control the Choke Plate, as well as, "it", also controls the Opening Rate, of the Secondary Air Door as well............The, so called "Lean Drop" adjustment, really only has to be done, if the vehicle's engine, has to be Smog Tested, but, the bonus of performing it, will usually, make it so, Ya won't be burning as much Gasoline, at the Stop Signs or Red Lights (b-cuz, the engine won't have to burn as much gasoline, while it's just idling)...........A...Million Dollars, you say...Probably not such a good idea, b-cuz...I'd probably only..."Spend it"...!!!...lol (thanks anywayz)..........Lem-me-see-now...if a Guitar String goes Sharp, just turn the applicable machine head knob, to Flatten it a bit, until it's @ the correct pitch (but, really should be, taken a wee-bit Flat, then, brought up to pitch, if doing it correctly, that is), and, if a (traditional, not electronic) Drum Head (skin) goes Flat, then, just turn those screws, with the Key, so the Drum Head sound, goes, just a bit Sharper, until it gets up-to Pitch...and...that be that...but, in the case of a car or truck, then, if a "Sharp" goes into a Tire, then, a "Flat", it will usually be, and, I hope not, and....till next time....Keep-on-Rockin'....&....Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I need the know the spring placements to the various parts from the carburator and throttle body. I have a 1979 with a thermoquad a little different than yours but similar enough I think. A lot of the springs I found broke into pieces on top of the engine when I got the thing (lazy daze RV chassis). I know I'm missing something because the throttle is sticking and has almost no return and now the transmission isn't engaging so I need to look at the linkage. But I need to know about all the springs that make this thing stop and go. The manual doesn't really cover them very thorouly. Thanks. Great video. Post more?!
Excellent video, with good attention to detail. I rebuilt a TQ when I was about 17 for my '74 Challenger that my dad bought in 1990. I may go back through it sometime soon, the 2ndaries have been bogging pretty bad for the past few years of occasional driving. I'm 33 now, & haven't really touched the carb since I was 17 or 18.
thanks Rocky,
Lee in Middle TN.
Great content, I just wish my old friend 480p wasn’t here. I need some hi def in my life right now.
Greetings...Reggie Black. My Custom Living...……..Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too………..Well, there are some, 4-K/high definition videos, on some of the UA-cam channels, and hopefully, some of these Hi-Def videos, will have some content in them, that, you might be interested in...……..Thing is, a Hi-Def (4-K) camera is needed, to record with, and, who-ever wants to watch "it", has to have a TV or Monitor (or screen), that is capable of displaying, that, shall we say...4-K...high pixel count...……..Maybe, watch some of the Hi-Def, Slow-Motion, UA-cam videos, as, some of them, that I watched, not so long ago, were really impressive, to say the least (the frame rate, that they used, was unbelievable...!!!)……..and...….till next time...…..Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great intro video! Spoken very clearly with nice explanations of each part! I just tore apart my TQ on my 340 and your videos are really great explaining the different parts!
Thanks a lot!
Great video. I have a couple of TQ's (one a comp series FO 4846SA) and will be going through them soon. Will be watching the rest of your video's.
Thanks
My father worked at a Chrysler dealership and remembers them a pain to adjust.There is an old Chrysler training video from 1972 on mymopartv's video list on this website.5 adjustments.Another problem was getting the screws out,sometimes they never came out.I seen one like this out of a 1984 or 1985 Ramcharger,could not get the screws out and the thermoquad went in the scrap pile.Replaced it with an easy to tune Edelbrock Carb.
How much does these goes? I'm not sure what your question is?.......Goes, as in Price? or........How fast will a Thermoquad make a car or truck go?.....Price can be anything from Free to depending on if it has been modified for Performance or Racing or perhaps a New One still in its Original shipping box?.....Could be in the thousands of dollars?.....How fast you ask (maybe?).....How Fast do you want to Go?...
thanks rocky
Greetings...copper jacket...…….You're welcome, and, thanks for watching...…….When it comes to adjusting/setting up a Thermoquad carburetor, then, always keep in mind, to make the adjustments in the proper sequence (as in, the order to do them), otherwise, it usually ends up being, that, the Thermoquad carb, will probably, not work so well at all...……The rebuild kit's instructions (sheet of paper), is usually pretty good, at showing that proper adjustment sequence...and...….till next time...….Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Greetings and thanks for the thought and time put into these vids. I have a 77 dodge truck with a 440, and while my TQ runs nice and smooth, i am getting no secondaries at all, which (as you've mentioned in your vids) means i am getting bad response and bad MPG at higher rpms... i am getting 7 mpg full load or empty, uphill or downhill! and with a 3 speed with no overdrive, i am forced to use my tranny kickdown to get any extra acceleration up hills, etc instead of the secondaries. unfortunately, i am NOT a mechanic in any way, and feel quite stupid most of the time... i know my air door seems to move well and nothing feels stuck or sticky at all. what i am unsure about is the linkage from the choke pull off which i understand is what controls when the secondaries open... i didn't see in any of your videos how to make sure that whole linkage area is functioning properly. my parts all move, but i don't know more than that. any advice, or perhaps another video i could look at? i haven't delved into the rebuild series, just the 1-9 videos. thanks much in advance!!
GX500 Greetings GX500....Thanks for Your nice comment, and, for watching, as well................................7 MPG You say...well...I'd say, that, at least, it's...Not as Bad...as getting..."7 Gallons per Mile"...!!!...lol....................................As for the Carter Thermoquad Carburetor, there are a few things, to take into consideration, as it applies, to, Your, as You were sayin', Low Gas Mileage, and also, lack of Performance as well............................Well, for most Carburetors, when they get old and tired, as in, Lots of Miles on them, as well as, parts and pieces, some-what deteriorating, from, wear, heat and age, then, Performance & Fuel Economy, tend to drop off, to some degree, some more, some less, not to mention, that, Gasoline, in certain parts of the World, are getting/having..."Ethanol" (aka, Alcohol, sometimes derived from Corn, as in, Corn on the Cob)...maybe about 10% Ethanol there-abouts, in some places...added into their "Gasoline Blends", which, has the ability, to make some, if not most, Carburetors, Run on a some-what..."Leaner"...Air/Fuel Ratio, or Leaner, Air/Fuel "Mixture", side of things, as compared to, the usually 100% Gasoline, that Did Not have Any Ethanol/Alcohol Added into its Blend, that most of the earlier Thermoquad Carbs were "Calibrated" with, way back when..............................Well, no need to feel stupid, my Friend, as, all it really amounts to, is, just, how bad, that, You want to Learn, and Know about, what-ever the Subject Matter, happens to be, at any given time, and, basically, most of the time, it just boils down to, just putting in, the Times and Effort, towards, what-ever it is, that, Interests You, and, here's where I use my own, what-sham-ah-call-it, that be-in..."If a Person is Interested, that Person will Learn"...and as I see it, it really can't be put, any simpler then that (hopefully, and keeping my Fingers crossed as well...lol)............................Before I get into, the nitty gritty, I think, that, I should make You aware of, just..."How Important"...it is, to..."Follow The Sequence" (aka, the Order of doing things), as it pertains to..."Doing the Adjustments/Settings"...on, the Thermoquad Carburetor/s, as, by..."Not Doing So"...the Thermoquad Carb, will usually..."Run & Behave"...just like...(use Your Own Nasty Word Here...!!!...lol).................................If Your Thermoquad, has those "Nitrophyl" Floats (looks like black plastic), inside of it, they, at times, have the habit, of..."Acting Just Like A Sponge Does"...in that, there can be times, where those "Nitrophyl Floats", are able to..."Absorb Gasoline"...kinda making the..."Gasoline Soaked Nitrophyl Float"...Act, as I like to say, and that is, kinda like a..."Rowboat Half Full of Water"...does, and what that does, is, that Sinking, or Semi-Sinking Carburetor Float..."Will Not be Able to Close"...the..."Needle inside its Seat"... where-by, the Gasoline, will usually..."Keep Flowing into, one or both, of the Thermoquad's, Float Bowls, which will usually cause, a rather Unwanted..."Too Rich...Air Fuel Ratio/Mixture"...due to a..."Way Too High...Wet/Gasoline Fuel Level"...in one or both Float Bowls, and, could very well be, just one, shall we say "Thing", that can be, what is causing, like You were sayin'..."Only 7 Miles per Gallon"...!!!.................................Hopefully, Someone, Hasn't, Tinkered with, and, Made any Adjustments, to the Linkages and such, in a, shall we say..."Not Knowing Manner"...and perhaps, put said, Not Wanted Adjustments, not even being, way out in Left Field, but rather..."Not Even In the Ball-Park"...!!!...lol...even if so, it can usually be Fixed, if, that be the case...............................Now then, about Your Thermoquad's..."Secondaries"...Not Functioning, as They should be do-in......................................The..."Choke & its related Linkages"...Play a very..."Important Role"...in, just how "Good or Bad", Your Secondaries Perform, believe it or not....................................There is usually, a "Lock-Out Device/Part", that is located on the "Lower Left Side" (as Viewed, while You are Sitting in the Driver Seat), of Your Thermoquad, really Close, to "Shaft", that actuates, the Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies...and, this "Device/Part", Acts, pretty much, as a "Teeter-Totter" does, but, having a few exceptions, at that................................"It's actually a "Small, Counter-Weighted"...Teeter-Totter, that Prevents the Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, now get this..."From Opening"...Unless the Engine is..."Fully Warmed Up To...Operating Temperature...say what...???...lol.................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...it's "Designed" that way, so, the..."Lead" (pronounced Led...lol) "Foots"...out there...that..."Just Can't Wait, Till the Engine Warms Up"...to go, shall we say, into..."Pedal-To-The-Metal-Mode"..."CAN'T"...!!!...lol...................................With Your Engine "Cold and Not Running" (the Air Cleaner Housing, might have to be Removed to see this)...just "Push Down", on that "Big Fast Idle Screw", at the Front of Your Thermoquad, until it gets all the way to the Bottom, where You should see, a "Clearance Notch", at the Bottom, of those Fast Idle Lever "Steps", and, the Screw threaded end, of that Big, Fast Idle Screw, should "Wiggle" a bit, and not get Hung-up or Bind, at all, in that "Notch", when Adjusted Properly, and, working as "it" should.....................................While "Holding", that, Big Fast Idle Screw, all the way to the Bottom, You should be able to See, a 90 Degree Lever, that is part of, that Larger "Teeter-Totter" (Yes-sum, 2 Teeter-Totters, for even more Fun!), and, that 90 degree Lever, that is sticking-outwards, should be Pushing "Up", On that "Smaller, Teeter-Totter", and, that's when, that "Little Hook", on the other end, of that, Smaller Teeter-Totter, should be "Dropping Down", so, when, You are Asking, the Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, via its Throttle Shaft, to Open, You know...as in..."Pedal To The Metal Time"...or almost, as well, then, that "Little Hook", Has To Be Grabbing/Making Contact With, the..."Other Hook"...that is on Another Lever/Bracket, that is Connected to, that Short, just over an Inch Long, oh, about, 1/8 Inch Diameter, Round, Rod-like, Linkage, that You should be able to See, quite easily................................To "Verify", that, that Small, Teeter-Totter, is "Doing its Job", and, with the...Engine..."Cold, and Not Running"...just Hold, that Big/Heavy, Fast Idle Screw "Down", and..."Slowly, Move, the Primary, Throttle Plates/Butterflies..."Throttle Shaft, Bracket/Lever", by "Hand" (that Your Gas Pedal Cable is attached to, on Your Thermoquad carb)...all the way from..."Idle Speed"...right, up to..."Wot/Wide Open Throttle"...to "Make Sure", that, the "Secondary Throttle Shaft" is "Moving", and, that ,the "Hook", on that "Small, Teeter-Totter", is "Making, Very Good, and Full Contact", with the "Other Hook", but, there has to be, just, a "Very Small Bit of Clearance", where that Small, Teeter-Totter's, Hook End, of it, "Does Not Bind/Drag, or make Contact With, the Lever/Mechanisms, that are On the Secondary, Throttle Shaft, to prevent Operating Trouble, and that "Clearance", of about, no more, then about 1/32 of an inch, or 1 Millimeter, there-abouts is maintained (the Specified "Clearance", can be found, on a Thermoquad Carburetor, Rebuild "Kit's"...Instruction Sheet/Paper, or, a Factory Service Manual).................................Also, "Check" and make sure, that, Your Thermoquad's "Choke Plate" is "Fully Vertical/Open", just after You "Shut-Off Your Hot Engine", and please, be..."Very Careful, of some "Very Hot Engine Parts", so You Don't get a Nasty "Burn"...!!!.................................The Choke Pull-Off, has to be in..."Very Good Condition"...as, that Choke Pull-Off, not only provides "Vacuum Kick" (Opening of the Choke Plate, on Top of the Primaries), when the Engine is Started Cold, but, also, that there "Choke Pull-Off"..."Regulates and Controls"...the..."Opening of the Secondary Air Door" as well...!!!................................If "it"..."Does-Not"..."Open Properly & Enough"...then..."Too Rich of an Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture"...it will usually be (Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I do speak from my Own Experience, having, all of that Unwanted Popping, and an Engine that, Sounded "Sick" and just Could-Not Go, cuz, that there "Not Opening Properly"...Air Door, was, as I see it, Acting, just like that Choke Plate Does, making for "Way-Too-Much-Gasoline", that my Engine, Was-Not able to Burn Properly).......................................If Your Thermoquad Carb, is quite Old, and, has Lots of Mileage on "it", that in itself, will usually "Prevent", our, good ole Thermoquad, from "Do-in its Job", as Good as, I do know, it's "Capable of", and, when, oh, shall we say..."Freshening"..."it"..."Up"...with, a..."Good Rebuild", using a Good Quality Rebuild Kit, along with..."Following"..."Exactly"...the..."Adjustment/Set-Up"..."SEQUENCE"...as set forth, in both, the Factory Service Manual, as well as the "Literature/Instruction Sheet", that usually comes in the Rebuild Kit, as well, then, that my Friend, will usually, make for, One Awesome, Performing, Thermoquad Carb, and, if You can keep Yur Foot Out of it (trying not to Laugh too hard...lol), You'll probably be the recipient, of some rather good, gas mileage as well...hopefully....................................Oh, and also, if Your Engine's Distributor, has a "Vacuum Advance Canister/Unit" (kinda, looks like a Mini-Space-Ship...lol), mounted on the outside of it, then, there's usually, a, rubber-like "Diaphragm", inside of it, which, just like the Diaphragm, that's inside Your Thermoquad's Choke Pull-Off, that, can, and will usually deteriorate some-what, as they get Older, get Flexed, an almost countless number of times, while in use, and, can sometimes, be responsible for, Lower gas Mileage as well, due to the, sometimes, lack of Vacuum, Timing Advance, while just Cruzin' along, just sayin' now...............................A Thermoquad Carb, Rebuld Kit, "Instruction Sheet", has some very Good & Important Information on it, both Picture-wise, and usually, in sequence too...!!!...as well as a pretty long list of Settings, for quite a few Different Models of Thermoquad Carbs, that, that particular Rebuild Kit Covers, as well.......................................If You ever get around to obtaining a Rebuild Kit, make sure, that You tell the Parts Person, the..."4 Numbers, followed by the Letter S"...that is usually Stamped, into Your Thermoquad Carb, at the Left Rear Corner, nearest the Bottom, to ensure, that You do indeed, have the Correct Rebuild Kit, for Your "Exact" Thermoquad carb...!!! ..................Once a Person, spends some time, Tinkering with, and Studying up, on a Thermoquad Carburetor, and, just like me, You'll probably be quite surprised, at how good You might just get, but in the very same breath, all of this Thermoquad stuff of mine, is, just a Hobby, after all, probably, due to, having a Thermoquad carburetor, that..."Wouldn't Behave itself"...lol...well...until, I got around to "Showing "it"..."Who the Boss is"...!!!...lol..................................Oh, before I forget, a good, Setting to start with, on that Air Door "Torsional Wind-Up Spring", that Controls the Secondary Air Door's, "Resistance", is about...1 and 1 half Turns...from where the Air Door, first Touches, that Aluminum, Casting Boss/Stop, at the rear of Your Thermoquad, where the Air Door Contacts, when it come to a Halt (aka, Stop)...and, the Rebuild Kit's Instruction Sheet, should have the Specified, Air Door, Spring Setting, Printed on it......................................So then, Check some of the Above out, on Your Thermoquad, and, let me know, how You make out, if You care to, that is..................................I hope, some, of this Long-wind-ed-ness, is able to help You out some-what, and.............Till next time..........be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
i have a 1978 winnebago with a 440 4 barrell carb and it needs some help.nobody In our local part store,Advance Autozone etc have no knowledge of the old school stuff. I hope to watch your videos so I can fix my rv for the summer,nice videos.Hopefully they will save me
some $$$$$
Greetings Danny Davidson....Thanks for your comment...and...Welcome to the "World of Thermoquads!!!"...lol...If and when, You happen to get Your Thermoquad Rebuilt and Set-up Properly, it will reward You, and your Winnebago with some pretty good gas mileage, but only if, You keep Your foot, from mashing the Gas Pedal to the Floor!!!...lol....A well Rebuilt, and Set-Up Thermoquad carburetor, will make that Big 440 Cubic Inch V-8 Engine of Yours, "Move" that Winnebago rather easily, when, the Thermoquad carb, is "Doin' its Thing!"
I'll mention a few things, that should help You out...
Gasoline, these days, is usually, quite a bit Different, as compared with the Gasoline, that Your Thermoquad carburetor was "Calibrated" for, way back in "1978", depending on the Gasoline "Formulation", that is available to You, where You live, as well as, the Gasoline that will be available to You, where Your Winnebago takes You, while traveling, a fairly Long Distance, from where You live.
Probably be finding, somewhere up to, oh, about 10% Ethanol (Ethanol = Alcohol), on average.
I have found, that, the More (% of) "Ethanol" that is actually In the Gasoline "Blend", that I put in my Gas Tank, the "Leaner" (Leaner = Air/Fuel Ratio) that the Thermoquad carburetor would supply the Engine with, causing the Engine to "Surge", while just trying to maintain about 30 Miles Per Hour (or, about 50 Kilometers Per Hour), while on a level road.
I had to "Enlarge" the Primary "Jets", in order to Cure, that Lean Running condition.
Before You actually Start "Rebuilding" Your Thermoquad carburetor, I strongly Suggest, that You Buy "2" New "Floats", if they are of the "Nitrophyl" (black plastic) Material, as, I have found, that, over time, they Act like a "Sponge", absorbing Gasoline, and then start "Sinking", causing a "Very Rich" (as in, way too much Gasoline mixed in with the Air), causing, Lots of Black Smoke out of Your Winnebago's tail pipe, and, very, Very "Poor" Gas Mileage as well...!!!
Also, "Replace" Your Thermoquad's "Choke Pull-Off", with a "New" one, or, nothing but, Trouble and Headaches!
The "Choke Pull-Off", is Responsible, for not only, "Opening Slightly", Your Thermoquads Choke Plate, just after engine Start-Up...but...just as Important, It's the Gadget that "Regulates" the "Opening Rate" of Your Thermoquad's "Secondary Air Door"...!!!
(don't say I didn't warn Ya!...lol).
Try to get a "Rebuild Kit", that has a "Brass" Accelerator "Check Valve" in it.
You can See this "Brass" accelerator check valve, in one of my Thermoquad Video's, as well as, in the Thumbnail Picture, for that very same Video.
Make sure, that You Study, and check out any "Differences", that You see with Your Thermoquad carburetor, as Compared, to the Thermoquad that You see, in my Thermoquad carburetor Videos!
There are "So Many" Different "Models" of Thermoquad carburetors, and, some have "Additional Gadgets", that "Were Not" Found on the Thermoquad carburetor, that You see in my UA-cam Video's!
Until You happen to spend, quite a bit of time, with a Thermoquad carburetor, it, at times, can be quite frustrating to some Individuals, especially when, a Thermoquad carburetor is "Fed" (as in the word Feed) with some of that "Gas-Em-Ah-Hall" (aka, Gasoline blended with Ethanol), which "Is Not" the Type of Gasoline, that Your Thermoquad carburetor was "Calibrated" (aka, Set-Up) for, and, may, or may not, cause some, Engine "Running" issues (mostly on the "Lean" Air/Fuel Ratio side).
So then, if, after watching (and hopefully understanding), what You see and hear, in my Series of Thermoquad carburetor Videos, You will have some basic knowledge, on what to be looking out for, as well as, "All" of the "Adjustments", that have to be done, in the "Correct Sequence", or, You'll find, that, It just "Don't" work right!
One last thing (well, for now, that is), is to, Make Sure, to "Record" (aka, write down), the Primary and Secondary "Jet" Number/Sizes, that are "Stamped" on each of those (brass) "Jets", and also, the Number that is "Stamped" on the "2" (brass) "Metering Rods" as well, for Future "Reference!" (when You have Your Thermoquad carburetor Apart).
If You care to, let me know, how Your Thermoquad carburetor "Rebuild" & "Set-Up" is progressing, and, I'll try to help You out, if needed.
Best of Luck...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@ezrstl Thanks a bunch for you kind comment......As for the good old Thermoquads, there are so many variations of this carb that one should take into account......I recall that some of them had "Pressed in Jets", perhaps with a seal or gasket of some sort?......Maybe your Competition Series T.Q. is one of them with the pressed in jets, so be careful, as not to harm anything......On second thought, maybe make a Display Case for that awesome Competition Carb that you have, and Treasure it!
I got one from a 70s van with fuel still in it in the junk yard
Thanks for the video Rocky, helpful
Greetings...John VanDenburgh..........You're welcome. and, thanks for watching..........Just so you know, usually, the later 1970's and 1980's Carter Thermoquad 4-Barrel carburetors, will usually have more Gadgets/Devices, added to them, as compared to, the very simple/basic Thermoquad carb, that I used, in all of these videos.............Also, those additional things (smog devices and such), have to be checked out, and in some cases, some adjustments to them, may also be required as well, maybe, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Rocky, was wondering if you might be so kind as to tell me which of your videos covers modification of the TQ's air bleeds when re-jetting? Thank you.
Congrats on being #1 on the street!..........but........what exactly is a Dodge C R/T ?...........Maybe a.........Coronet.........Charger.........Cuda..........or a...........Challenger perhaps?............Hopefully you can get back to us and let us all know what that "Muscle Car" of yours actually is, and also, what Engine was under the hood........(as we all sit here having an anxiety attack waiting for your Reply!).......lol........Take care and have a good one!
Greetings Wafrederick....I do admit, one has to have spent some time with the Thermoquad, especially when the Government mandated that the Auto-Makers comply with what I call, "How Lean can we go until it Seizes", in as far as something like the "Lean Burn" system is concerned....According to a leading Thermoquad "Guru" (not me), the best of the performance Thermoquads (not including the Competition series), were the ones made between 1972 and 1974, and maybe the one shown in my videos...
Thanks for your awesome feedback Philip!....Did your Jensen Interceptor have a Thermoquad installed at the factory when new, or was it added a while later perhaps?....I'll be making some videos later, about what I'll tell you now, to save you some head-aches....If you have "Nitrophil" (plastic) Floats in your TQ, they may have absorbed gasoline and started to sink, causing a rich mixture....If it hesitates while accelerating (normal driving, no heavy foot!), could be accelerator pump?...(con't)
...Also, Holleys for the most part, were quite easy to figure out....That's probably why a Carburetor Novice would prefer to work on one....For me, a Thermoquad is easy to diagnose, troubleshoot, rebuild, repair, set-up, oh, also, on my first try setting one up for the "Smog Test" (Emissions Testing), using the "Lean Drop" method for adjusting the Air/Fuel Ratio for idle speed mixture, using only a hand held Tachometer, That Mighty Thermoquad "Passed" the Emissions Test with Flying Colors! : )
Do you know where the thermostat wire gets plugged into thank you
@monabang Thanks for the nice comment!........Hmmmm......If your car runs like a Bat out of Hell, I'd say that's a very good start!.......Take a look at your spark plugs every so often, to see if they are showing too lean, or too rich a color on the electrodes and inner porcelain.......A Light to Medium Tan color is an indication that your fuel/air mixture is about right. When your carb gets older, give it a rebuild! Keep your choke, linkage, and choke pull-off working freely! : )
Thanks for the great tutorials Rocky, With these I tackled my first carb rebuild, the result?, 2 pumps of gas, my 340 in the Challenger lights right off!!!,
Had some of the issues as your parts carb, Bent linkages etc, Dimple rubbing the float bowl, Fixed these and everything works fine, still a bit rich at idle,but, Still doing the final tweaking,
Thanks again!!
+Guneslinger ....Greetings Guneslinger....You're Welcome, and..."Congratulations", for a Job well done...!!!..................Did You Install "New Floats", when You Rebuilt Your TQ...???...cuz, if, the Old ones, were made out of that Nitrophyl (looks, kinda like, black plastic) stuff, then, as I've Experienced in the past, some of them, like to act like a "Sponge", and will Absorb Gasoline, which will make that Sponge-like, Nitrophyl Float, Not-so-Float-worthy, and, it will usually start Sinking, kinda like, a Row-Boat, half-full of water, would be do-in, and, a Way Too "Rich", Air/Fuel Ratio/Mixture, it will usually be...!!!...............When-ever a Carburetor Float starts Sinking, the "Wet (gasoline) Fuel Level", in the Float Bowl, will then, usually, become much Higher than wanted, and, I had a "Sinker" (TQ Float), sink on me, and, it was so bad, that, I had Gasoline "Dripping" from One of the Primary (bore's) Nozzles, while the Engine was warmed-up, and, just at Idle Speed, and, before I found that out, I was thinking, that, it was a Choke related Problem, which, it really Can't be, cuz, the Choke Plate, and the Choke Linkage, was Fully-Off, once the Engine was up-to Operating Temperature........................Also, a "New" Choke Pull-Off, should be Installed as well, cuz, it's also Responsible for, the Opening Rate of Your TQ's Secondary Air Door/Plate, and, I had one, that was kinda Sticking, and Not Relaxing Fast-enough, and, while doing a WOT/Wide Open Throttle Acceleration, that poor ole Engine, sounded kinda sick, and went...POP...POP...POP...Not so Good, what-so-ever...!!!.....................Also, the Gasoline around here, probably has, oh, about 10% Ethanol (alcohol) in its Blend, and my Engine started to Lean-Surge on me, (Car was Buckin' back and forth), while just maintaining City-Speed......................On that particular TQ, I ended up, Re-Jetting, the Primary Fuel Jets, From .095"/Ninety-five Thousandths of an inch, All the way Up-to, 104"/One Hundred (and) four Thousandths of an Inch, just to Get-rid of, that Lean-Surge, that I was havin' at the time...Yikes...!!!....................If Your Engine, happens to have a Performance Camshaft in it, as compared-to, the Factory Installed One, then, that, in-itself, could be the cause, of a Not-so-Nice Engine Idle (Stink-ee Exhaust...???), without have the TQ, Properly Set-Up for it, and probably, the Ignition Timing as well.....................I have some Videos, on my UA-cam Channel...RockysRoadshow...that should help You out, and, I have one, where I show Folks, using my, BIG ole Analogue (has a Needle/Pointer that Waves at You...lol), Automotive specific, (Multi-) Meter, on, how to Set-Up, one of the Older/Basic TQ's for Smog/Emissions Testing, that I actually used/did, and, I sure did get, some rather Good Results, showing, on that Smog Test (Report Card...???...lol) Paper, that was handed to me, after all, was said and done...Yip-ee...!!!...lol...oh, and, also, one Fellow, that watched the Video, that I just mentioned, used that Video's Information, on His own TQ, and, He "Passed" His Smog Test...!!!...Wowsers...!!!...lol ........................Maybe, do an Internet Search, for...Vaanths Guide...or maybe it's...Vaanths Thermoquad Guide...cuz the Guy that Wrote, and/or Compiled it, did a "Fantastic Job", and then some...!!!....................If You happen to have any questions or concerns, at all, just Post them, under, any of my UA-cam Videos, and..........till next time............Be Safe, take care (Don't get too many Speeding Tickets now), and have a good one.
+RockysRoadshow .... Brass floats and the ever so cool brass accelerator pump base, i still need to spend some time tuning the carb, it is a project car and does not move much, i9t is the correct carb for the year and trans, 6318S, I remember when i rebuilt the 340 going with a energy cam that was basically 1 step up from the 69 340 cam, that was the one that they quit using because it was a bit "lumpy" for a factory cam, car has a 69 block in it, so of course i went with 10.5 -1 flattop pistons, could not read the size of the primary jets, metering rods are 1962, I used to have one of those boxes you are talking about and may still have it out there somewhere!!
+Guneslinger ....Greetings Guneslinger....Good to hear, that You got the Brass stuff................As long as, those Nitrophyl Floats, and that orange/tan colored rubber-like stuff, that was used in some of the earlier TQ's, accelerator pump, Check valves, didn't get Too Old, which, if, it/they did, then sometimes, they would Malfunction miserably, as I've experienced in the past..............Mr. Factory installed, Lumpy Camshaft, was probably Cancelled, because of, Smog/Emissions Standards, that it was not able to meet, possibly...???................Before I forget, make sure, that You Use, the "Correct", High Octane Rated Gasoline, for Your High Compression Engine, or it might turn into Detonation (or Pre-Ignition?) City, and I hope not..................Also, see if You can find out, how much (if any?) Ethanol (alcohol), is actually in, the Gasoline Blend, that You'll be pumpin' into Your Challenger/E-Body's Gas tank, cuz that "Gas-em-ah-haul", tends to make an Engine, Run, on that, Not-Wanted, Lean side of things...!!!....................Here's, what will usually happen, if a Lumpier Camshaft, is installed in an Engine, that previously had, a Factory/Stock, not-so-aggressive, Camshaft in it....................The Engine, now has a Lumpy/quite Aggressive Camshaft in it, and the Engine, while being fully warmed up, and, at curb Idle Speed, just wants to Stall, so, out comes the Screwdriver, and the Curb Idle Speed Screw, gets Turned In, oh, let's say, 3 or 4 Turns In, as an example....................Now then, the Engine stays Running, but, the Exhaust Gas, that's exiting the Tail-pipe/s, is Stink-ee & Super Rich Smelling, and Ur Eyes start watering..............Why is that, You ask...???...well, the TQ is probably Idling on the Gasoline, that's coming out of the Primary throttle bore's Nozzles, that are "Above", the throttle plates/butterflies, "Instead-Of", the curb Idle Only Circuit, which it should be doing, at Curb Idle Speed.....................When the Curb Idle Speed, is Set "Correctly", and the Engine is Idling on the "Idle" (only circuit), then, if a Person was to have a look-see, at the Transfer Slots, as Viewed, from "Under" the Primary Throttle Bores (having the TQ "Removed", from the intake manifold), the Throttle Plates/Butterflies, should be leaving/exposing, what appears to be, a Square shaped Opening there-abouts................Now then, if we took a look, at the Transfer Slots, (from Under the TQ), just after the Curb Idle Screw, was Turned-In those 3 to 4 Turns (in), then, those 2 Transfer Slots would probably be looking like a Rectangle/Rectangular shape (not Square), and, by having those 2 primary throttle Plates/Butterflies Opened that Far, then, the Air Flow past the throttle plates/butterflies, would increase to a point, where-by, Gasoline, would then be, coming out-of the Primary Throttle Bore's Nozzles, at Curb Idle Speed, which we really don't want, especially on a street driven Vehicle....................Also, by having, too much of the Transfer Slots Exposed at Curb Idle Speed, the Engine would probably Run like crap, when-ever, tryin' to get the Car, to accelerate normally, from a stand-still........................There are at least 2 ways, that I can think of, to, shall we say, Cure, all of that Stink-ee Exhaust, and waste of gasoline..................Not so recommended, is, what the Old School Hot-Rodders, used to do (at times), and that was, to drill a small hole, in each of the Primary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, in order to get some curb Idle (speed), "By-Pass (idle) Air", so the Engine would Idle properly......................If a Distributor, that has, Centrifugal Advance Weights & Springs, as well as, having, a Vacuum Advance Unit/Canister, on it as well, then, it can be "Modified", to Suit an Engine, that has been Performance/Upgraded with a "Lumpier/more Aggressive Camshaft/Bump-Stick, but, some, quite "In-Depth" Planning and forethought is needed, before doing-so, to say the least...............I had a Look at Vaanths Thermoquad Guide, for that...6138-S...TQ, and the Metering Rods showing, were...1940...not...1962...so, maybe, Your TQ, might have had, a few Changes, here and there, in the past perhaps...???......................The 6138-S...TQ...is for a Standard Transmission/with the Clutch Pedal, is it not...???...if so, I can Picture, a...Hurst, 4-Speed, Pistol Grip Shifter...that, shall we say, is...Stirrin' the Pot...lol.............If, You still can't find out, what Your TQ's Jet Sizes are, head over to my UA-cam Channel...RockysRoadshow...and look for, the Carburetor...Jet Measuring Tool...UA-cam Video, and that, Tool/Gauge,that is shown in that Video, was, what I made, out of a piece of coat hanger wire, which was filed into a very gradual Taper, and then...Super-Polished....lol.......................So then, that's about it for now, and, if You need any help or advise, from me at all, just post, any questions or concerns, under, any of my UA-cam Videos, and.............till next time...........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Excellent videos! Are you still out there? Have you ever dealt with secondaries sticking slightly open (idles too fast)?
Greetings...MILT OCHSNER.........Thanks for watching.........Am I still out there...???...(so, I go over to the mirror, and I ask the guy, that I saw in there, the very same question, and he replied)...Yes, you are still "out there" alright (on the other side of the mirror, that is...!!!)...lol.........Secondaries sticking slightly open, you say...???..........Do you mean the "air valve", that's near the top of the Thermoquad carb, or, do you mean, the "throttle plates" (butterflies), that are near the bottom of the Thermoquad...???.........Easy part first...there is a bent metal rod, that connects the primary throttle shaft, to the secondary throttle shaft, along with a counter-weighted catch/lever.........The secondary throttle plates will only open, when the engine is warmed up, and the catch is into it's operating position, and also, the secondary throttle plates, won't start opening, until the primary throttle shaft, is quite a ways open as well..........There is a certain "sequence", that, the adjustments/settings have to be made in, on a Thermoquad carb, or, things tend to get messed up, and don't work right.........If it's idling too fast, then, the choke's BIG/quite heavy fast idle screw, might not be dropping all the way down, and clearing the fast idle lever/cam, when the engine is up to operating temperature, possibly.........There might be two things, that control the curb idle speed, that might not be set correctly.........There is sometimes a curb idle speed solenoid on one side, and, on the other side, there is a slower setting, stop screw, and, either one of them, can cause a higher then wanted curb idle speed, if not set properly.........A rebuild kit, will usually have, very good set up/adjustment settings, printed on the instruction sheet, that's in it.........Kinda sounds to me, that, perhaps someone might have made an improper adjustment or two, somewhere along the way, possibly, which can cause the problem that you are experiencing.........If you can tell me, what the Thermoquad carb model number is, then, I might be able to help further.........There are usually four numbers, followed by the letter S, which are stamped into, the Thermoquad's base (lowest aluminum part), at the rear of the carburetor, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
@@RockysRoadshow I just meant are you still active on UA-cam. It is a 9009s that came in a lot of carbs from ebay. I rebuilt it from your excellent videos. I cleaned up the secondary bores and butterflys and now the spring can hold them shut. When I rebuilt it the mixture screws were seized and it took a long time to free them up. Now after setting for a yr. they are seized again so I don't know if I will ever get it going.
@71bee383 Thanks for the nice comment, my Mopar Friend!......It's sure a good thing that the $25.00 T.Q. that you see in my videos is not a "Smogger" carb with all of that extra window dressing added in the form of, "How Lean Can We Go Before It Seizes!"......lol......I think the toughest part of the rebuild will be getting everything set up properly, and in the right sequence so the Choke will work properly and shut off at the right time!......ps, are you a regular Bee, or a......"SUPER BEE?"
@clcs13 Thanks, my Friend! More cool ones on the way! Take care, and have a good one!
Greetings phw340....Sorry, I seem to have missed giving you a reply....(better late, then never, I guess)....Thank-You, for posting your "Fantastic" comment, and, indeed, I really appreciate what you said....I find that, by using simple words (as much as possible), then, people that have little, or no experience with the subject that I'm talking about, helps them out, as opposed to over-using all of that "Technical-Jargon", that leaves the beginner confused....(I was there once)....Take care...
Also, I had a 2-Barrel Holley on a 225 Slant-Six (six cylinder engine), with Hooker Headers no less!...That may have been the best Holley carburetor ever made!...Mind you, it had a Manual choke...That being said, maybe it was me, that made that 2-barrel Holley carb run so well, well at least when it wasn't fully warmed up!..lol..Yeah, please don't pre-judge me, because I happen to like all of the carburetors out there....Thermoquads are easy to set up compared to Webbers!...Take care, my Friend
Hello Rocky.
Bjorn Aasvik from Norway her.
Thank you for informative videos on youtube regarding rebuilding of Carter 4 bbl carb. I have followed you stepp for stepp. The carburetor I rebuilt was a Carter 850 TQ 9036S, wich I belive was put on a 440 engine. The carb. work much better now, but it's not working satisfactory.
I have a Dodge Li'l Red Express 1979 with a 360 E58 EH1engin. It seems that the careburator give to much gasoilin to this engin. Difficult to get idle speed when the motor is warm, and it drown when I make a kickdown. Is it difficult to rebuilt it so it will work on the 360 engin. The motor came orignal with a 850 I belive the carb. number was 9226S.
Bets regards
Bjorn
Greetings Bjorn Aasvic....Thanks for Your nice comment, and, You are welcome, my Friend, living in Norway....There are a few things, that can cause Both of Your Thermoquad carburetors, to be, Not-Working very good....A Person that has almost Any of the "Older" Carburetors, that were "Factory" Installed on Engines, when the Vehicle was first Sold to the Public, back in time, to about the 1980's, were, as I see it, "Calibrated" (aka, set-up with the Fuel-Jets, Metering Rods, or Power Valves, and Air Bleeds, and any related Fuel or Air Passages, as well as, the Required Adjustments Necessary, that were needed, in order to provide the Engine with the "Correct" Air/Fuel Ratio, for the Engines "Needs", right from a Cold Start, Light Cruising Speed, and, up to, a Hard Acceleration, with Wide Open Throttle).
The first thing, that should be considered, is, "What" is actually "In" the Gasoline, that You Buy, where You Live?
The "Older" Installed Factory Carburetors that were Installed on New Cars and Trucks, back then, (Not the "Newer" After-Market Carburetors), as I have experienced, were actually "Calibrated" using 100% Gasoline!
Now, take that very same "Older" Factory Installed Carburetor (in Original and New Condition), and, put some Gasoline that has about 10% Ethanol (Ethanol = Alcohol) in its "Blend", like the Gasoline Blend, that is currently being sold here in Canada, in Your Vehicles gas tank, and, what I have experienced, in the past, was, what is referred to as "Lean Surging".
Lean Surging, is when a vehicle Jerks back and forth, when just trying to maintain 30 Miles Per Hour, or, 50 Kilometers Per Hour, on a level road, while keeping the gas pedal held steady.
This, to me, was, caused by that Up To 10% Ethanol, that was Blended into the Gasoline, which caused a "Leaner" Air/Fuel Ratio.
The more Ethanol (aka, Alcohol), that happens to be in the Gasoline Blend, that You put in Your gas tank, will in some cases, Require, that the Affected Not-So-Good performing Carburetor, be "Re-Jetted", usually with "Larger Fuel Jets", in order to provide the Correct, and Increased "Flow Rate", that Ethanol (alcohol) Requires, to keep Your Engine from Running "Too Lean" (air/fuel ratio).
Using 100% Gasoline in Your gas tank, as a Base Line, Your Carburetors "Fuel Jets" would be at a certain size (orifice or hole size in the Fuel Jet, in Thousandths of an Inch, or, in Millimeters).
Now, imagine if 100% Ethanol (alcohol) was in the gas tank.
In order to get that Carburetor to operate normally, those "Fuel Jets" would have to be Changed to a "Much LARGER Size", because, the Engine, while Hot, and at Idle Speed, or Light Gas Pedal Cruise Speed, needs to have about 14.7 Air/Fuel Ratio at about Sea level, and, if trying to use Ethanol (alcohol), with the "Smaller" Gasoline "Fuel Jets", while still in the Carburetor, that Poor Engine would be Running "Way Too Lean", and would Run Terribly, if at all, and, Your Engine would be probably be Damaged as well...!!!
So, see if You can find out, just what is "In" the "Gasoline", that You put in Your gas tank, and let me know.
That way, I will have a better idea, as to, just how much "Extra" help, that You might need, in order to have "1", or maybe "2", Very Good Performing Thermoquad Carburetors, that are not Operating so well at the moment.
There are a few "New Parts", that Should always be "Replaced", any time, that a Person does a "Proper" Thermoquad carburetor "Rebuild"
Install "2" New Floats, if they are the "Nitrophyl" (black plastic) type.
These "Nitrophyl" Floats, usually will start "Absorbing" Gasoline, then, they start "Sinking", causing a "Very Rich" Air/Fuel Ratio, that will "Waste" Gasoline, and, give Your Vehicle, "Very Poor" Gas Mileage/Kilometer-age!
Install a "New" Choke Pull-Off (make sure that You get the "Correct" One, and, give the Parts Guy the Number/Letter that's Stamped on the Lower Throttle Body, as in, Your TQ's...9036S...or...9226S...???)
If trying to use the "Old" Choke Pull-Off, sometimes they get "Stuck", or "Respond" Too Slowly, or, maybe the Internal Diaphragm gets a "Leak" in it, which will "Not Allow" it, to Operate Properly!
Your Fuel Pump, should not have a Fuel Pressure Above about 7 Pounds Per Square Inch, because too much Fuel Pressure, has been know to "Over-Power" the Needles in their Seats, causing a "High Fuel Level" in the Float Bowls, which in turn causes a "Way Too Rich" Air/Fuel Ratio!
I have found that, any Engine "Modification", will Change, or Upset, the Carburetors "Calibration", some just a little bit, while others, Lots!
Just by Installing "Tubular Exhaust Headers", on a V-8 Engine, that already had a Dual Exhaust System on it, caused that V-8 Engine, to Run quite a bit "Leaner" (Air/Fuel Ratio), because of the "Scavenging Effect" of the Exhaust Headers, enabling that V-8 Engine, to "Breathe Better!"
Ignition Timing is very Important as well.
Which Vehicle?
Is it Stock or Modified?
So, if You care to, just let me know, all that You can, about the vehicle in question, that way, I will be able to help You out, so much more, rather then having me, going on, a...
..."Wild Goose Chase...!!!"...lol.
Hmmmmm...Why are You Norwegians such "Good Ski-ers?"...
...and...
...Congratulations for "Owning" a quite Rare, "Li'l Red Express!!!"
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Rocky, really enjoyed these thermoquad videos. Thanks for posting them. I'm about to rebuild the thermoquad on my '73 Chrysler Town and Country. Do you have any particular rebuild kits that you use or recommend?
...Also, as for some problems with Holleys....Before they came up with the "Protection" for the Power Valve (some may even call it an Economy Valve), if you happened to have a Backfire through your Holley carburetor (older ones), you would probably be seeing a big black cloud of exhaust smoke coming out of your tailpipe as you looked in your rear view mirror....That backfire through your Holley carburetor just blew a hole through your Power Valves Diaphram!...Metering Rods are more refined : )
Hi. I'm making educational clip about "must know" carburettors. The only carb i dont have on my shelf is thermoquad. Can I use fragments of this video in mine ?
Greetings...V8interceptor.........Hello, and thanks for watching........Sure, go ahead, and use my Carter Thermoquad videos, as you wish, as, I would sure like to see, that, lots of information, about this particular carburetor, is still available, to any and all persons, that happen to be showing an interest in it.........Some websites, will probably still have, a link, to...Vaanths Thermoquad Guide...which happens to be a very good web-page, about the Thermoquad carb, that has been, very well compiled/written, to say the least, so, make sure that, you try to find it, and read it too, enjoy..........Hmmm...lem-me-see now...your youtube name is V8interceptor, and now, I'm thinkin' that, it might very well be, a Jensen Interceptor (car), that came factory stock, with a 440 V-8 engine, with a Thermoquad carb on it, correct...???.........I helped a guy out, a few years ago, that had that very same car, that also had, a factory installed, Thermoquad carb on it.........His name is...Phillip Lockner...(spelling...???), and, he had two youtube videos, where-by, he video's, his Thermoquad's Air/Fuel ratio (with an air/fuel ratio gauge), while he is driving his Jensen Interceptor, while being under, different speeds, and (engine) loads, be it, from a stop sign, or rolling into the throttle, while the car was already moving along.........He monitored the air/fuel ratio, before, and after, he made an adjustment or two, to the metering rod's, hanger (tree) adjustment screw, and, even I was quite surprised at, the difference that it made...!!!........The earlier years, of Thermoquad carburetors (like the one, that you see in this video series of mine), were less complicated, than, the later (year) models, because of, all of the extra, shall we say, gadgets, that got installed onto them.........Last, but not least, is that, a lot of people, aren't aware of, doing all of the Thermoquad's, settings/adjustments, in the..."correct sequence"...(as in, order of doing them), and, if not done properly, then, it will usually result in, a Thermoquad carb, that won't be performing, all that well, at all..........Good luck, with your educational videos, and......till next time......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Great vid!
Greetings...woodey028...........Thanks for the nice comment, and for, watching too............If you're ever working on, or, setting-up/adjusting a Thermoquad carburetor, and Ya happen to run into any difficulties at all, feel free, to give me a shout, and, I'll see what I can do, to help you out, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow Wow thank you so much for the reply. I own a "Survivor" 1972 340 4-gear Dodge Demon. I have the original TQ and am going to rebuild it thanks to your videos. I plan on reaching out if need some advice :) Its videos like this that really count.
Greetings...woodey028...........You're welcome...........If your TQ has the "nitrophyl" (looks, kinda like, black plastic) "floats", then, "don't re-use" them, because sometimes, they might become, a "sponge" wanna-be, as in, they can sometimes "absorb" gasoline, and start to "sink" some-what, and will have the potential, to make-for, a TQ, that sends, a "way-too-rich", of an air/fuel ratio (mixture), into an engine that doesn't need it, and might also cause, a heck-of-a-lot-of, un-wanted "carbon" (coating), inside of, the engine's combustion chambers, and, whole exhaust system too...........There should be "brass" floats available for a TQ, and, there's usually only a few dollars difference, between the two (material) types, oh, and, the "brass" type, can be "leak tested", and, is usually "repairable" too (soldering anyone...???...lol)..........Also, install a brand "new"..."choke pull-off"...as well...because, the rubber-like internal diaphragm, will usually dry-up, with heat & age, and, "it" controls, both, the choke plate/flap opening, and fast idle linkage operation, as well as, the opening rate & amount, of secondary air door actuation............TQ's are very "fussy", when it comes to doing, all of its "adjustments/settings", in the "correct sequence" (aka, order of doing them), as in, some of the adjustments/settings, will "affect", some of the "other", adjustments/settings, that occur later down the line.............The (paper) instructions, that come in the TQ rebuild kit, are usually very well done, so, read, and look at all of the pictures, several times, to the point, that, you really know how it's supposed to be done, and, pay very close attention, to the (usually numbered), adjustments/settings..."sequence"...!!!...well, if Ya want to have the best chance, at having a TQ that will behave itself, while going easy on the gas pedal, and "roar" like a "lion", when that gas pedal, then becomes, the....Loud Pedal...!!!...lol...........So then, a 4-speed transmission perhaps, as in, oh, maybe an...A-833...along with a Hurst Pistol Grip shifter as well...???............If you haven't already done so, do an internet search, for...Vaanths Thermoquad Guide...(some websites out there, will probably still have a "link" to it), and also, see what the...4-numbers, usually followed by the letter S, that should be stamped into your TQ's throttle body (lowest aluminum part), near one of the rear corners, are, that way, they might (should), show-up, in the listing section, on Vaanths Thermoquad Guide, and, will usually be showing, jet sizes, metering rod sizes, etc...........Same...4-numbers, followed by the letter S...are what you'll usually need, to get the "correct", rebuild kit, floats, choke pull-off, etc, for your "exact" TQ (Hmmm...1972, might be different than, those 4-numbers, followed by the letter S...???)...........Gasoline, in 1972, was, what I like to call "real gas", because, these days, there's usually about 10% Ethanol (alcohol, sometimes made from corn), that's added into the (current day's) "blend", and because of this (I like to call it)..."gas-em-ah-haul"...lol....then, there's that...some time ago, I had to "re-jet" (fuel jets), quit a bit "larger" (bigger orifice/hole size), to get rid of that "lean surge", that I was having (car was bucking/jerking back and forth), while just going at city speed, on a level road...........Once I got the (fuel) jetting corrected, then, that, good ole TQ, got the engine, back to, responding & performing..."super"...once again...yip-ee..!!!..lol..........If you need any help at all, just give me a shout, oh and, I spent quit a bit of time, with those 1970-ish Dodges as well, just so Ya know.............Good luck, and.......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow Right on Rocky!!! Thanks for the info. I will keep you posted on the progress.
Greetings...woodey028..........."Newsflash"...!!!...well, not really...lol............Just thought, that, I'd throw a bit of info your way............If you don't already have, a real "genuine"..."Factory chassis, and, body service Manual"...then, maybe, get one (sometimes two books, make up the set), as, I found, the mid-1970's, Dodge, "factory service manual/s", done, really, really well, and, there should be, a really good section, with set-up specifications & drawings, for the Thermoquad, as a bonus, if you will............There should be, a Vendor, on EBAY, that sells "CD-ROMs", for about $30.00 (that be, thirty dollars, USA currency), that will probably have the very same information, that was found, in the old school, factory service manuals..........If, for some reason, you can't get ah-hold of a Demon manual, then, I be thinkin', that, a (Plymouth?) Duster, might be really close............When new, the mid-1970's, Dodge (factory) service manual/s (was about the same size, as a sheet of computer paper, edge-wise, there-abouts), and came in two parts, the thicker one, being the chassis part, was just shy of 2-inches thick...!!!...and the Body section (separate book), was about 5/8 of an inch thick, as I recall..........I'm not sure, if Haynes, ever made a manual, for your car or not...........Here's something, that I discovered, a few years ago..........I went to a store, that, had lots of car manuals and such, so, I find two factory service manuals, one, was all covered in oil, and (grease monkey) grease...lol...and, was about, 1 and 1/4 inches thick, and the other one, was only about 5/8 of an inch thick, and, looked as though, it was never opened-up before, almost like new...!!! (I actually saw, some very small indentations, on each edge of the manual, mid-way, from each corner, on the front cover, where, I assumed, that, it was bound to some other books (in a pile maybe?), with some string, or small cord, of some kind..........So, I take these 2 factory service manuals, over to the sales counter, and ask the guy (store owner?), as, to why, the "different" thicknesses...???...so...the counter guy, starts flipping both manuals, to random pages, and, they always
Matched each other 100%, when both of them, were at the same page number, well, less the oil, and (grease monkey) grease, that is...lol..........Then, the counter guy, soon, figured out, what the difference was, and it all boiled down to, now get this...the..."Thickness"...of each..."Sheet of Paper"...that was in each of the Manuals, when being compared to each other...!!!...(damn)...so, I ask him, how much each manual cost, and, the one, that looked almost new, was only about, $5.00, or was it $10.00, (I forget), "more", than the "grease monkey"..."handled"...one...lol...so, the much cleaner one, that almost, looked like new, was the one, that I paid for, that day (no-brainer, I be thinkin'...lol)..........Good luck, with your "Ride", and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
i have one how much does these goes?
Greetings once again Philip....You may find that some of my other Videos may be of some help to you also....Feel free to check out my Channel....Just type...RockysRoadshow...into the UA-cam search bar if you haven't already....There, as with fuel injection also, you will find things like, Spark Plug Reading, etc....I'm not sure how much you already know about the automotive world, but, I'm always here to help if need be....Take care, and good luck with your Ride.
Greetings Wafrederick....Thanks for your comment and opinion....I guess it's just human nature for some to resort to name calling when something goes wrong....I have spent time working on, and figuring out design features and performance problems with Thermoquads, Holleys, and Rochester carburetors, and each of those three do have problems...Double Pumper, you say?...Hmmmm...Then you're talking Gallons per Mile, not Miles per Gallon!...lol...Thermoquads and Rochesters get the best mileage! : )
Thank you so much for the work you have done with this series. I'm starting my rebuild tomorrow and I feel a lot more confident after watching these.
I have a Thermoquad 9128S from my 79 IH Scout with 345.
I was hoping to install a 1in. spacer when I reinstall the carb...should I still use the thick bottom gasket? that may be a little too much?
Oh, and any suggestions on how to hook up the choke rod that comes from the manifold? its the one that has an internal wound spring, I think it operates from motor heat...not sure. Are those adjustable?
Thanks Again
John
Greetings John Popielarcheck....You are welcome, and Thanks, for Your well appreciated comment, my Friend....Oh, where to start....First thing that I should be sayin', is, pay close attention to the Thermoquad carburetor that You have in front of You, because, I'm thinkin', that, it may very well have "More Gadgets" on it, then, the Thermoquad carburetor, that You saw in my UA-cam Videos....Also, if, "Your" Thermoquad Does happen to have "Extra" Gadgets on it, then, if You "Change" or "Disable", any Gadgets or Vacuum Hoses, as well as, any Electrical Wiring, that might be connected to any Electrical Gadgets, that were Originally Installed on Your particular Thermoquad carburetor, it may very well "Cause", some "Not so Good", Engine Running, and, Performance, as well.
Pay very "Close Attention", to the Thermoquad carburetor's "Rebuild Kit's Instruction Paper/s", as there should be some very good Information, that You should "Read", over and over, until You can (hopefully) Understand, the Information, that is Printed on that, or those, Instruction Paper/Papers.
Make sure, that You "Follow" the Correct "Sequence", that You see on those Rebuild Kit "Instructions", as, it's Very Important, or, Your Thermoquad carburetor, Probably Won't work very well...!!!
For the Best chance, at having Your Thermoquad carburetor, Perform at its Full Potential, I would strongly suggest, that, You Install "2" New Nitrophyl "Floats", as, usually, over time, they have a habit of turning into "Sponges", and "Absorb Gasoline, and start "Sinking", causing a very Unwanted "Way Too Rich" (air/fuel) Ratio, which in turn, Wastes Gasoline, Fouls Spark Plugs, and Carbons Up Your Engines Heads (internally) as well as, the Tops of the Pistons as well...!!!
Also, especially Important, is to Install a "New" Choke Pull-Off, as, not only does it provide, what is known as Vacuum Kick, for the Choke Plate, on cold engine Start-Up, but also, that Choke Pull-Off "Regulates" the "Opening Rate" of Your Thermoquad carburetor's "Secondary Air Valve"...!!!
Even the Gasoline, that is sold these days (usually has a certain %-age or Per-Centage of Ethanol/Alcohol, in its Blend), that can cause a Thermoquad carburetor, to run on the "Lean" (air/fuel ratio) side, and may require, an Increased Primary and/or Secondary (fuel/gasoline) "Jet" Change, to a LARGER Size, to keep Your Engine from "Lean Surging"
Lean Surging = an example is...when Your Vehicle (with engine at operating temperature) "Surges" back and forth, while trying to maintain city speed, on a level road, while holding the gas pedal in a fixed position.
If You have any Running/Performance issues after the Rebuild of Your Thermoquad carburetor, I'll do what I can, to help You Fix the problem/problems.
The Altitude, that Your Vehicle is being operated at, has a Great Effect, on how well, it Runs/Performs.
Just Don't Go Too "Lean", on the Air/Fuel Ratio, or, Engine Damage may result...!!!
Your 9128-S Thermoquad, appears to be an "800" CFM (Cubic Feet per Minute) Model, that should have 1 and 3/8th Inch Diameter Throttle Plates (aka, Butterflies) on the "Primary" Side, which will probably give You some very "Crispy" Throttle Response! (Your Secondary Throttle Plates, should be 2 and 1/4 Inch Diameter ones).
The reason, that a "Thick" Gasket is used Between the Bottom of the Thermoquad carburetor, and, the Top of the Intake Manifold, is to "Insulate" the Thermoquad carburetor, from the "Heat", that the Intake Manifold absorbs from the Engine itself.
Also, that's the same reason, for the Phenolic Resin (black plastic) Center Section of the Thermoquad as well, in order to keep the Gasoline in the Float Bowls, about 20 Degrees "Cooler", then most other Carburetors, that are made of almost All Metal.
"Cooler" Gasoline (and, Cooler Intake Air), makes More Horsepower, and usually More Torque Too!
Spacer???....I'm thinkin' that, You might have Changed Your Engine's "Intake Manifold", to the "Square Bore" Type (Square Bore, just means that All "4" Holes in the Top of the Intake Manifold, are All the same size, or the Opening, is kinda Square, if Measured on all 4 sides perhaps), and, You maybe using, what You call a "Spacer" to perhaps, really being Used to "Adapt" Your Thermoquad's "Spread Bore" Configuration (Spread Bore, just means, that, the Primary Throttle Plates are "Smaller" then the Secondary Throttle Plates) to (I'm thinkin') a "Square Bore" Type of Intake Manifold.
Is my assumption Correct???
Now, for the Choke, "Thermostatic" (aka, wound up) Bi-Metal Spring.
The Type, that I have seen the most, is the Type, that's Installed into the Intake Manifold itself, and, it was usually Equipped with an "Electric Heating Element", all in One Unit.
It also had, a ceramic looking, not too big, Rectangular, white-ish Ceramic "Time/Temperature" Control Gadget, that was usually mounted just behind the Themoquad carburetor, and more-so, towards the right hand side, of the intake manifold.
In Theory, the Ceramic looking Choke Control gadget, was supposed to "Speed Up", the Opening Rate/Time, of the Choke Plate, in order to "Reduce" Exhaust Emission's, especially when, the Engine was Cold.
You will probably find, a setting/measurement, pertaining to the Choke Lever, on the Thermoquad carburetor.
The measurement was usually measured from the Bottom of the Thermoquad carburetor, to the "Hole", that is In the Choke Lever (on the side).
The Above Choke Lever, "Setting/Measurement", Procedure/Adjustment, should be Shown, on Your Thermoquad carburetor's, Rebuild Kit Instruction Sheet/s.
Have a close look at Your "Choke Coil", and see if there is an Adjustment on it (which I doubt, there is, given the year 1979).
If You "Do" Install that Spacer (Adapter?), I don't think, that, the Choke Coil's Actuating "Rod" will be "Long" Enough, to even Reach, Your Thermoquad's Choke Plate Actuating "Lever"...!!! (I can see that, in my Crystal Ball...!!!...lol).
The only way, that Choke Coil's "Rod" will work, with that Spacer/Adapter, is, to "Splice/Attach", a Middle Section, "To" that "Rod", in order to "Lengthen" It, to the Required/Proper "Length", so it will (I hope), maybe Work, as it should.
If You like, let me know, how it's going, and, I'll try to help You out, as best I can.
Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you for the advice. They carb is a pretty basic one (identical to your video) at least on the outside. So, I think thats gonna help.
The spacer is just that...susposed to give better power. After re-examining I have changed my mind on the spacer anyway. Right now there is only a thin gasket between the carb and manifold. At most I'll try the thicker gasket when I reinstall.
As for the choke...its really a Mickey Mouse looking set up. No wires or insulators of any kind. Just the rod, spring and housings. In the worst case I may switch to an electric choke.
Thanks again and wish me luck!
I'll let you know how it goes.
John Popielarcheck Hi Rocky,
Well right now parts are soaking. Again, I can not thank you enough for the guidance.
'Two interesting things I can across during disassemble. Apparently this was rebuilt before by someone that did not watch your videos.
One was the S clip was installed backwards, the other more disturbing was I found one of the "c" clips laying on top of one of the special O rings (the one on the passenger side). I couldn't find where it could have been missing from or how the heck it would have ended up there..I can only assume it was put there on purpose. Can you think of a reason this would have been done?
John Popielarcheck
Greeting John Popielarcheck....You are welcome, and, It's good to know, that my UA-cam Thermoquad carburetor Videos, are helping You out....That "S-Link", that joins the Accelerator Pump Shaft/Stem, to its Actuating Lever, will probably still work in the Reversed Position, it's just that, I think, "Super-Man" might not appreciate it!...lol....If You look at that "S-Link" Closely, while it is resting on a Flat Surface, You will probably notice that it's Not Flat! (if memory serves me right, that is)....That "C-Clip" (is it that "Bent Wire Type", or ???) that You found, where "It Should Not Be", might Not have been placed there on purpose....Another possibility, might be, that, the Person, that was previously working on Your Thermoquad carburetor, could have had, that "C-Clip"..."Go Flying", when He/She was trying to either, Remove it, or, Install it, on one of the Thermoquad carburetors "Rods/Links" perhaps, and, after it became "Airborn", it so happened, that it "Landed", inside Your Thermoquad carburetors "Float Bowl" (just a Theory, that's all).
Usually, a Rebuild Kit, has "New" (bent) Wire Type (if that be the case, that is) "Clips/Retainers" (kinda in a "C" Shape) in it, and, they "Can go Flying", if they Don't get Installed "Very Carefully!"
Always Wear "Eye Protection", when Installing or Removing any type of "Spring Type" Clip or Retainer, as these little (censored word) can cause "Eye/Vision" Damage...!!!
Make sure, that You "Check" the Float Bowl's "2" Surfaces, where those "2" "X-Rings" (aka, O-Rings, with what look like Grooves on them) make contact with, for Smooth/Flat Surfaces, so those "X-Rings", have the best chance to "Seal" the Air Horn (aka, Thermoquad's Top aluminum casting).
Also, "Check" the "2" Parts of the "Air Horn" (Top casting), that go down into the Float Bowl/s, that makes Contact, with the Top of those "2"..."X-Rings", for Smoothness as well.
Even the "Factory" can "Change Things" without Notice!
I had "2" Different Thermoquad carburetors, with "Different Primary Jet Sizes", then, what I saw "Listed"...!!!
In "Both" Thermoquad carburetor's, they were supposed to have .098" (ninety-eight thousandths of an Inch) Orifices/Holes in them.
One had .095" Primary Jets in it, and the other one had .096" Primary Jets in it.
I'm thinkin', that, the Factory, might have made some Changes, and, those Changes, never made their way to "Print" (Print = Document, Paper, Book, Manual, etc.).
I guess that, there is indeed..."Nothing Carved in Stone!"...lol.
Till next time...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
RockysRoadshow
Hi Rocky. Well, I completed the rebuild with very few issues thanks to your guidance.
The only thing I'm not sure of is the X rings at the bottom of the secondary jets. The ones that came with the Walker brand rebuild kit seem too small. Maybe they spread out when everything is screwed down?
I'm having trouble finding a guide the jet #s on line. Here is what I have:
1979 Scout 345 automatic.
Primary Jets: 4095
Secondary: 5098
Metering rods: 2273
Does that seem correct?
ThankYou as always,
John
...Not to worry about the Gas Re-formulation, or other Variables thrown at us, as I always seem to have a way to address such a circumstance/circumstances, as the case may be....I had to Re-Jet a Thermoquad (stock one), just to get it to run at city speeds without jerking back and forth, due to being too Lean on the Primary throttle bores as much as 3 Jet sizes! (.003 Inches or 3 Thousands of an inch per Jet size increase) and, then it ran Smooth, and Powerful from that point onwards!...(con't)
Hey Rocky, where can I get the 2 O rings that go in the fuel bowl? Thats all I need for my TQ right now. I'd rather not buy a whole rebuilt kit just for those 2 little O rings. Thanks, Lee.
+lee isenberg Greetings lee isenberg....Welcome back, and, Thanks for watching..............About the only place, that I recall, that I've seen, just the 2..."X-Rings" (as in, the 2...O-Rings), that go down, into the TQ's Float Bowl, for Sale, can be found, on the Website...Quadrajetparts.com (interesting that...lol)........................Once You get to Their Website, just Select...Carter carburetor/s (thumbnail picture)...then the Thumbnail Picture, of the Thermoquad carb...then, Thermoquad or TQ "Misc", which shows a Thumbnail Picture, of, 2 Throttle Plates/Butterflies...then, You should see a Thumbnail Picture, of, 2 of those "X-Rings" (aka, O-Rings), and the best part, of all of this, is, those...2-"X-Rings"...Only Cost...$2.50 (US Dollars, I assume)...???...........................If You do happen, to Buy anything, over the Internet, be Very Careful, especially, when using, something, like a credit card, so You don't get ripped-off...!!!.....................Good luck, with getting those 2..."X-Rings, and also, I hope that Your Rebuilt Thermoquad..."purrs like a Kitten" (when You want it to), and..."ROARS LIKE A LION"...!!!...when Your Led Foot say so...lol...and............till next time............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Thank you so much sir! Have you ordered anything from the Quadrajetparts.com website?? Hopefully they're legit, they won't be makin' much green money off me either way. Butt then again, I was going to 'splurge' & buy a whooping 4 of those suckers! Whoa that makes a Grrrand total of $5 bucks!
Also, thanks for sharing the dude's clip of the dyno run 400 w/ dual Thermoquads! I never had such a 'chubby' before in my life!! Take care from Tn.
+lee isenberg Greetings lee isenberg....You're welcome, and, No-Sir-ee-Bob...I have not ordered anything from the website in question..........................Maybe, check around, on the Internet, or some Website Forums, for any Reviews, or the like......................If any of the Part/s Sellers are on E-Bay, there is usually, oh, shall we say, a Customer, Feed-Back Score, posted, somewhere, near the Top of the Page/on the right side, of the Parts Page, that You are Viewing on E-Bay, expressed In %, or Per-cent, damn-it...How many out of 100...lol................Check out PayPal, for making any On-Line Purchases, cuz, from what I gather, the PayPal System, is kinda like the Middle-Man, and usually helps-out, both, the Seller and the Buyer, should some, oh, shall we say, Un-Happy-ness, happen to materialize, so to speak.........................A Friend of mine, was tellin' me, when He first, joined-up with PayPal, there was Only a Low amount of Money, that they will Provide for Sales Transactions, for starters, and it wasn't enough Money, to cover the Bid, that He wanted to make, on the E-Bay Item, that He wanted.................Then, I guess, that, the PayPal Folks, would probably Increase the Amount of Money, available to You, after some time passes by, and You Prove to be Paying on time, I guess............Some other Websites, for Thermoquad stuff, are, (I think?) Ninja Fuel Systems, and possibly, as I've read somewhere, Walker Industries, perhaps...???.....................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob...I had to have, a $35.00 (Canadian Dollar) Part, Shipped to the Parts Place, where I buy, some of my Auto-Parts from, cuz, their warehouse, was out of stock, and, the Shipping Cost, for that, not so big package, Cost me...$60.00...!!!...Yikes...!!!..........................Maybe only $2.50 or $5.00, for Your 2 or 4 X-Rings...But...what will the Total Cost Be, after the Shipping is Added-On...???..................Make sure, that You're Sitting Down, when You Read The Bill...!!!...lol............till next time.............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
+lee isenberg Greetings lee isenberg....So, You took a look at those 2 Thermoquad carbs, Sitting on Top of That High Rise Apartment Building, did Ya...lol...............Next time, You want to Impress the Ladies, have a look at that Video again, just to prove to them, that, Size (really) Matters, oh, and, make sure, that, Your..."Hood-is-Closed", as well...!!!...lol................till next time..............Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
I've heard that thermoquads and q-jets are interchangeable is that true or just a rumor?
barryismygod Greetings barryismygod....Thanks for watching, and for Your comment/question as well.....................................You were asking..."If, Thermoquads and Quadrajets are Interchangable"...???........................Indeed they are...but...in all actuality, there's quite a bit more to it, then just having the "4" Bolt Holes "Lining Up" (that be, through the Carb Base...then the Gasket...and on, through to the Intake Manifold itself)...............................................I have come across some Carburetor Sales Establishments on the Internet, in the past, where they are sayin', something along the lines of, a "Quadrajet" being a "Replacement" for a "Thermoquad" alright.................................................What I have sitting in front of me at the moment, happens to be "2" Gaskets that go between the "Bottom of the Carburetor"...and...the "Top of the Intake Manifold", on a "V-8 Engine", and "1" of them is for the "Rochester Quadrajet 4-Barrel Carburetor"...and the Other One, is for a "Carter Thermoquad 4-Barrel Carburetor"............................................The "4", shall we say..."Bolt Holes" (One on Each Corner), In/on these..."2"..."Gaskets"..."Do Line Up"....with "Each Other"...so, as far as "Installing/Attaching", either of the "2" Carburetors that were just previously mentioned, to the "Existing Intake Manifold", that's probably already Installed on the Engine in question, should work, just fine (be sure to check, if the Bolts, or (threaded) Studs, are the Correct Length, for the Carburetor being Installed)........................................Here are a few "Things", that have to be Considered, when-ever, Interchanging/Installing (aka, One, for the Other), as it pertains to, these "2" particular "4-Barrel Carburetors".............................................Use the "Exact Gasket" (that goes between the Bottom of the Carb, and the Top of the Intake manifold), as in..."Quadrajet Gasket, for the Quadrajet Carb"...and the..."Thermoquad Gasket, for the Thermoquad Carb".............................................Each Gasket is about 1/4 Inch, or Thicker, there-abouts....................................................Make sure, that the "Gasket" that is being used...and the "Opening", in the "Top of the Intake Manifold"..."Does-Not Come in Contact-with"...the..."Primary or Secondary Throttle Plates/Butterflies"..."Preventing Them", from Opening, all the way, to WOT (Wide Open Throttle), and also, to..."Make Sure", that "Those Throttle Plates/Butterflies"..."Are Able to Close All the Way Down/Shut" as Well...!!!.............................................."Make Sure", that there "Is" a "Good and Strong, Throttle Lever/Primary Throttle Shaft"..."RETURN SPRING", Installed, as It is "Imperative", in "Making Sure", that the Carburetors "Throttle Valves/Butterflies..."Return to, the Engine's Idle Speed"...when-ever You take Your Foot, Off of the Gas Pedal"...!!!..........................................The Fuel Line "Connection Point", on the Quadrajet is usually located at the Front of the Carb...where-as..."It's at the Rear, on the Thermoquad Carb"...................................................The "Throttle Lever" (on the Quadrajet's, Primary Throttle Shaft), that the "Gas Pedal Cable"..."Connects" to, "Is" quite a bit "Different", from the "Thermoquad's Throttle Lever" (that's also, part of Its primary throttle shaft), and, presumably, we are talking "Automatic Transmission" as well, and, if that be the case, then, the "Quadrajet" usually had an Automatic Transmission, Control "Cable", that got "Pulled", by the part of the "Throttle Lever" (that's part of the Quadrajets, primary throttle shaft), that "Extends Below", the "Primary Throttle Shaft" itself, when-ever the Gas Pedal gets stepped on...where-as...with the "Thermoquad's"..."Method", of "Actuating the Automatic Transmission's Control Device"...was usually, a "Stiff, rather Ridged Multi-Part Linkage", if You will, that was actually "Pushed" by the, shall we say "Pin, or Round Metal Bar", that was Part of, the Thermoquad's "Primary Throttle Lever", when-ever the Gas Pedal was Pushed-on, and..."Its Actuation Point, was Above the Primary Throttle Shaft"...!!!.................................................Also..."Make Sure"...that the "Intake Manifold" has the "Needed Clearance", for "Any Part", that is "Found Below"...the..."Bottom of the Carburetor"...Especially, concerning the Quadrajet's...Throttle Lever, where it Connects to the Automatic Transmission's, "Control Cable"...just sayin'.....................................................Then, the Carburetor's "Choke", has to be taken into consideration................................................If "It" happens to be, One of those "Units", that has the "Bi-Metallic, Coiled-up, Choke Spring, contained with-in the Housing, that is already Mounted on the Carburetor..."Start Celebrating"...!!! (less work that way)...but, more-so, if it has an "Electric Heater", inside of it, as the "Hot Air Type", will probably need some metal Tubing/Pipe, to take the Manifold Heat, up to "It"...................................................."If" the Carburetor being Installed, has, what is commonly called, a "Divorced Style" of "Choke" (meaning, that the Bi-Metallic, wound up choke coil spring, is Installed, in the Factory/Stock, Intake Manifold, as opposed to, being Mounted on the Carburetor itself), then, it might have to have some "Custom Modifications", to make "It" work, as "It" Should (probably because of, Carburetor, choke Lever/linkage, connection point, height differences)................................................If Your Vehicle, happens to have, the "Vacuum Booster Assisted"...type of..."Power Brakes", then, the "Vacuum Source", has to be Located as well.................................................Then, don't forget, Any "Vacuum Devices and Hoses/Pipes"...as well as..."Any"...Electric Wiring, that needs to be looked at as well, due to Any "Differences", that may be found, Between these "2"-Carburetors........................................I'll end all of this, with, the "Air Cleaner Housing/Air Filter"... "Has to Fit the Carburetor Properly"..........and...........Last, but not least..."Make Sure"...that there is..."CLEARANCE"..."Between"...the...Top of the Air Filter Housing or Unit..."BEFORE"...You..."SLAM the HOOD SHUT"...or..."Look Ma"..."See the..."Custom BULGE"...that I made, when I..."Closed the Damn HOOD"...!!!...lol..................................................As You can probably see by now, talking about doing something like this, is one thing, but actually..."Doing It"...is a whole..."Different Animal".............................Always remember..."Ladies and Gentlemen"................."Look Before You Leap"...!!! (yes Deer...lol)....................Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
Hello Rocky.
Thank you for good and quick feed back.
I think maybe I'm driving on wrong gasoline. The gasoline I have used have some bioetanol, about 5%. I will also check my ignition again. I have changed floaters, and the choke valves seems to work as it should.
I havent done anything with the main jets and rods. It can be that the main jets and rods are sized for the 440 engine . Do you now what size of main jets and rods that will be right for the 360 EH1 High performance motor?
I don't now what they have done with the carburetor before I bought the car.
And yes, I'm very satisfied to get a Dodge Li'l Red Express 1979. I imported the Truck from Fort Lauderdale last year. There are 2 more just some mils away.
Regarding our ski skills. It's a statement that the we Norwegians are born with skis on our feets.
So it could be the reason.
Take care and best regads
Bjorn
Greetings Bjorn Aasvik....The Gasoline "Blend", with all of the Different "Formulation's", including the amount of "Ethanol" (aka, Alcohol), that might be in the Gasoline, in Different Places "World-Wide", is Only "1", of quite a few Different Things, that can effect, just how well, any Carburetor will "Perform"....The "Altitude" (aka, At or Above Sea Level), has a great Effect, on how a Carburetor will administer the "Air/Fuel Ratio", if in fact, the Carburetor in question, Does Not have an "Altitude Compensating Device" on it!
I would highly recommend, that You Install a Brand New "Choke Pull-Off" on Your Thermoquad carburetor.
.
The reason being, that, the "Old" Choke Pull-Off, would probably (in most cases) allow the Proper, "Choke Plate" Actuation (aka, Vacuum Kick), but, that "Choke Pull-Off", has to be the "Best", and "New" as Possible, because of the very "Sensitive" nature, of the way in which it "Controls" the "Opening Rate" of the Secondary Air Valve!
Just think for a minute...
That "Diaphragm", that is Inside Your Choke Pull-Off, is usually made of a Rubber Like Material, and, it usually "Deteriorates" with "Heat" and "Age", and that alone, usually causes the "Rate of Actuation" of the Secondary Air Valve, to be less then Specified, by the Engineers that Originally Designed it.
Another thing to consider, while we are on the Subject of "Diaphragm's", is, it is also, just as "Important", to have a Like New "Vacuum Advance Canister" (aka, that space-ship looking device, that is usually Attached to Your Engine's Distributor), that "Controls", the "Amount" of Vacuum Advance, as well as, at what Vacuum Level it Starts and Finishes at.
It is "Very Important" (for Stock Un-Modified Engines), that the Vacuum Advance "Canister", be the "Correct One", for the Model/Number for that Particular "Distributor", as there are "So Many" Different Vacuum Advance Canisters, that were made, for So Many "Different" Engine Application's!!!
Also, The "Choke Pull-Off", has to be the "Correct One", that goes with, that Particular Thermoquad carburetor's Model Number (aka, usually with the "4" Numbers, with the Letter "S" at the end).
The Best place, that I have found on the Internet, for Thermoquad carburetor's, Jet and Metering Rod "Sizes", goes by the name...Vaanths Guide...and some Forum Websites, hopefully, will still have a Link to that Information.
I have found on "2" Different Thermoquad's, that, there should have been .098" (98 Thousandth's of an Inch) Primary Jet's Installed in them, at the factory.
One of those Thermoquad's had .095" (95 Thousandth's of an Inch) Primary Jets
and the Other One had...
.096" (96 Thousandth's of an Inch) Primary Jets.
I'm pretty sure, that, those Primary Jets were Factory Installed, and, they may have made that "Change", Without "Updating the Specifications" in Print.
You will probably Find, that some Thermoquad..."Jet and Metering Rod" Sizes/Numbers, will "Not be Shown", when You Look-Up those Sizes, for some of the Thermoquad's.
That 9226-S Thermoquad, Was Not Showing, those Sizes.
It appears that the 9226-S happens to be an "800-CFM" Thermoquad, due to it having 1 and 3/8 Inch (diameter) Primary Throttle Plates...
...where-as...
...that 9036-S Thermoquad, happens to be an "850-CFM" Thermoquad, due to it having 1 and 1/2 Inch (diameter) Primary Throttle Plates.
Both Thermoquad's (and most other ones too, but, there are exceptions), happen to have 2 and 1/4 Inch (diameter) Secondary Throttle Plates.
Once, just about "Any" Carburetor, is Set-Up, and Dialed-In, for the Gasoline being used, and, "Everything Else", including Ignition Timing, etc., will make for one "Very Powerful, and "Great Running" Engine, and the Real "Fun", is trying to find out, just how, and what needs to be done...
...to make that Engine, Nice and Happy!
Good Luck Bjorn...
...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
A good place to start to look for prices for Thermoquads is that Famous internet site called...................."E-BAY!"..................Best of luck with finding out what the value of your Thermoquad is.............Thermoquads have been used on Chryslers, Dodges, Plymouths, and a few on International Harvestors, and even a Ford!..........Did I miss any?................Take care, and have a nice day!
Great info! you definitely know your carbs! I build these good ol' T-Q's for all different types of applications. I have many parts for these phenolic resin beauties. there are many little functions that you should take care to address on the re-build such as: metering rod piston height, accelerator pump height adjustment, secondary air valve adjustment, secondary butterfly adjustment, as well as a few more features that I will leave to the imagination ;)
wanna get 1,000+ CFM's? I can do it!
...Also, the Gasoline of today is about 3% Leaner than it was in the 70's....Given the way that the New Gas is formulated, and Evaporates very fast due to carburetors with all-metal construction heating up, the Thermoquad having a float bowl made of Phenolic Resin, has the ability to keep the fuel about 20 Degrees cooler, helping the fuel to stay in liquid form, where it will do the most good....The Eddie is an ok carb, but it's not as refined as a Thermoquad...
Distributor advance is manifold vacuum, not ported
Greetings....Ron Cook...........Thanks for watching...........Well, most of the vehicle's engines, that I worked on, that had to "pass" the smog test, had a (carburetor) "ported" vacuum advance (signal), which prevented the vacuum advance can/canister, from, advancing the ignition timing..."only at curb idle speed"...otherwise, it worked just the same as, intake "manifold vacuum", when-ever the RPM's were above curb idle speed..........If I took the vacuum advance can/canister "hose", and switched it from "ported" to intake "manifold vacuum", a big "Fail", at the smog testing establishment, (while being tested, at curb idle speed), it will most likely be..........So yeah, the only difference between (carburetor) "ported" and (intake) "manifold vacuum", is "only", at curb idle speed, because the carburetor's primary throttle plate/or plates, as the case may be, kinda act-like, a shut-off "valve", if you will (so many people get confused about that)...........The real fun, starts to happen, when trying to modify, something like a distributor, that has a "smog" specified, ignition advance curve, and then, changing the mechanical advance curve, into a performance type of ignition advance curve, say what...???...well, if, and when-ever that modification ever takes place, then, Ya really got to do your homework, when it comes to, trying to figure out, just how much vacuum advance is needed, and when it is to be deployed, cuz, if Ya get it wrong, you'll probably be hearing quite a bit of "pinging", while just tryin' to cruise along..........In North America, there are so many different, factory, vacuum advance can/canisters, for a given type of distributor, that have, different amounts/degrees, of distributor (vacuum) advance, along with, where they start to deploy, and, where they reach their full limit (of travel), not to mention, some of the performance/aftermarket..."adjustable"...vacuum advance cans/canisters, that are out there as well...........I'm with Ya, as far as, intake "manifold vacuum" is concerned, when it comes to having, the most efficient amount of vacuum advance, while at (curb) idle speed, other-wise, like I was sayin' before, the...(carburetor) Ported vacuum (signal), and, (intake) manifold vacuum (signal), are the..."same"....when the engine's RPM's are "above" (curb) idle speed...........The, shall we say, "goal", is to get the peak combustion pressure, to occur, at approx....15 Degrees...Past/After TDC (Top Dead Center) there-abouts, so, the RPM's, engine Load, naturally aspirated (carbureted), turbo-charged, super-charged, type of fuel being used, etc., all have to be taken into consideration, to have the spark plug's "spark" occur, at the needed/precise moment, so that, good ole "peak" combustion pressure, occurs at the most efficient/power producing time/amount of crankshaft degrees, past TDC (Top Dead Center)...........So then, there Ya have it, well, for now, that is, and......till next time.......Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
i ment to say how much does these cost cuase i have a thermoquad 4bbl carb and i dont know much about it but it looks like it will work and are they use for a dodge plymouth? thanks
hi george here, can you help for years i had early falcons with 302,s and 351,s and i ran the thermoquad carby,s and they ran very well , i tryd runnung 600 to 750 holleys but the thermoquad had better power and fuel economy , but what i would like to know is i,ve built a 408 cleveland stroker motor it,s got 4v alloy heads it,s got a big lumpy cam a msd ignition extractors do you think the thermoquad would give it enough fuel , do you rebuild the thermoquad carbys i have and old carby that came off a 351 cleveland but it,s been sitting for 12 months it needs a rebuild kit putting in it if you can help it will be great thanks george.
George Flakemore Greetings George Flakemore....Thanks for watching, and for Your Comment/Questions as well.....................................................I have good news for You, in that, I should be able to provide, plenty of Information, Tips and Tricks, and, last but not least, the "Many"...Carter..."Thermoquad"...Videos, that I have..."Already Made"...that You can "Find" on my "UA-cam Channel"...RockysRoadshow...(I lost count, on how many I have at the current moment, Hmmmmm,...must be about "20" or More..."Thermoquad" Carburetor Videos...???..........................................................Some of them, are Information related, while another "Set" of them, will actually, Focus, in, on the "Rebuild" Procedure, that I use, along with some, shall we say..."Do's and Don'ts, if You will...lol...............................................................You can, just Type, in the UA-cam "Search Bar/Field/Box...either...Thermoquad...or My UA-cam Channel's Name...RockysRoadshow...which should take You, right to my UA-cam Channel Page, where You should find, about "80" Videos, most of which, happen to be..."Automotive Related"...enjoy, My Friend.........................................................I also, had a...1972...Ford..."351 Cleveland-V-8 Engine"...a while back, that had a...Model 2100 2-Barrel Motorcraft Carburetor, on top of the Intake Manifold...but...for that particular Year, the..."351 Windsor"...had quite a bit More Horse-Power...(same Carburetor as well...!!!)...Yikes!!!...lol...................................................................From, what I recall, the Mid-1970's Chrysler/Dodge/Plymouth..."440 Cubic Inch (displacement)..."Big Block"..."Factory High Performance...V-8's"...had..."Factory Installed"..."850 CFM (CFM = Cubic Feet per Minute...Flow Rating)..."Thermoquad Carburetors"...sitting on Top of "Their"...Intake Manifolds, and as I see it, an..."850 CFM Thermoquad Carburetor"...shouldn't have, any problem at all..."Supplying"...Your..."408 Cubic Inch Stroker Engine"...providing, that, the Thermoquad Carburetor, that You might be Installing on Your Engine, is..."Set-Up"...and..."Calibrated"...for, not only Your Engine's "Requirements", but, maybe even, More Importantly, for the "Gasoline", that You'll be putting in Your Vehicle's Gas Tank, if, and I'm quite sure, will probably have some..."Ethanol" (aka, Alcohol, sometimes, derived from Corn)... Added to the Gasoline, in about the 10% Range perhaps...???....................................................A few Years ago, this..."Ethanol" Stuff, that was added to the Gasoline, where I drive, made a Thermoquad Carburetor of mine, start to..."Lean Surge"...kinda like having the Car...Jerk, or Buck, back and forth, while, just going city speed, on a level road, and having the Gas Pedal, in a Fixed, and not moving position................................................................I had to..."Increase the Size"...of my..."2 Primary Jets"...from .095" to .104" (aka, ninety-five thousandths of an inch, up to, one hundred and four, thousandths of an inch, and, in .003" or three thousandths of an inch Increments, each time) in order to "Stop that Lean Surge", and, after I did the Jet Size Increase, my factory installed, 850 CFM Thermoquad...had my factory high performance, 360 cubic incher...just-a-rippin'...like it never had before...!!!................................................I have a "How to Read Spark Plugs" Video, on My UA-cam Channel...and...the Spark Plug, that You see, as it appears in the..."Thumbnail Picture"..for that very Video..."IS"...One of the Spark Plugs, with that...nice "Light/Medium-Tan-Color" on it, that came out of My Engine, right after I did that Thermoquad carburetor Jet Increase/Change, and Drove, for, oh, about 50 Miles or more, if memory serves me right, that is................................................................No matter..."What Brand/Make of Carburetor"...that You decide to Use, on Your "408"...with the..."Lumpy Camshaft"...in it, that You were talking about..."Make Absolutely Sure"...that You..."Don't Screw-In, the Idle Speed Screw or Idle Speed Solenoid"..."Too Much/Too many Turns In"...to keep Your Engine from Stalling...or...the Carburetor's..."Transition/Transfer Slots"...will be..."Exposed Too Much"...while being..."Viewed from the Bottom of the Carburetor"...!!!..........................................................If You do, what will usually happen, is, the Engine will start "Idling" on the "Primary Main Jets Circuit", which will usually, make the Engine run, "Way Too Rich" (air/fuel ratio-wise), which in turn, will probably make Your eyes and nose water, and, probably, coat, all of Your Engines Spark Plugs, with black Carbon...!!!................................................Some Folks (aka, People), used "Advanced" Ignition Timing, to Avoid the..."Expose-the-Transfer-Slots-too-much-Problem", but, if You happen to use that "Method", You'll have to be very Careful, to, "Not Over-Advance-the-Ignition-Timing", at any Engine RPM's (Revolutions per Minute), especially, when, You are doing a heavy Acceleration, or, when-ever the Engine is under a "Heavily Loaded Condition", or, Your Engine might get "Damaged or Destroyed"...!!!............................................Another "Method", that some, shall we say...."Hot-Rodders" did/performed, was to Drill a Small Hole, in each of the 2 Primary Throttle Plates/Butterflies, in order to...Provide some "Bypass Air", so, the Throttle Plates/Butterflies..."Would Not"...have to be Opened Up Too Far, with the Idle Speed Screw or Idle Speed Solenoid, which, as I indicated earlier, would result in, having the Carburetors..."Transition/Transfer Slots, Opened-Up too Much"...!!!....................................................When the Carburetor is Viewed from the Bottom, and when the Idle Speed is "Set" Correctly (as it should be, when it was on the Hot and Idling Engine), and, with the Choke Fully Off, and the Big Fast Idle Screw, is Clear of all of the Fast Idle Lever's (cam) Steps, the "Idle Transfer, or Transition Slots", should be Showing, a, somewhat "Square Shape", or, if its "Shape", happens to be, that of a noticeable "Rectangle", that, as I see it, will usually be Tellin' me, that, the Carburetor, just might be, starting to "Draw, an, Air/Fuel Mixture, from the Primary (jets) Circuit", and..."Should Not Be Doing This"....When, the Engine, is just at..."Idle Speed" (and, when the Engine is Fully warmed Up, as well)....................................................I find, that, it's a good idea, "Before" the Carburetor...Gets "Installed", on the Intake Manifold, to put a "Mark, of some kind (Dab of Paint, perhaps?), on the "Idle Speed Screw", and, see, just "How Many Turns of that Screw, and partial Turns" as well, that it Takes, From, where the Throttle Plates/Butterflies are Fully Closed against the Primary Throttle Bores, to where, it needs to be, in order to have that "Idle Transfer Slot, or, call it a Transition Slot", if You like, to make that "Square Shape", as Viewed from the Bottom of the Carburetor, that I was Talkin' about, that way, You'll..."Actually Know"...just "Where, and in What Position", the "Primary Throttle Plates/Butterflies", are..."Actually At", seeing as how, You, Other Folks, and Myself..."Are Not Able To Actually "See", where they happen to be, once, that Good ole Carburetor, gets, Bolted/Nutted to the Engine's Intake Manifold...!!!..................................................."Some, After-Market, High Performance Carburetor Manufacturers/Brands, have a, shall we say..."Idle Air Bypass" Adjustment, already Designed, and Incorporated in "Them", that will provide, that Extra, and Needed, While at Idle Speed..."Bypass Air"............................................................"Make Sure, that You have Plenty of Fresh Air and Ventilation, around Your Vehicle, when-ever Your Engine is Running, because..."Engine Exhaust Fumes are Deadly"...!!!....................................................I'm guessing, that, Your Vehicle..."Does Not" have to be Smog/Emissions Tested, is that correct...???....................................................Usually, Engines that have "Aggressive/Lumpy" Camshafts..."Will Not"...be able to..."Pass the Smog/Emissions Test", and even, something, like, having, One or Two "Three-Way Catalytic Converter/s", in the Exhaust System, is, as I've already experienced..."Still Won't" be able to "Reduce", all of those "Lumpy-Camshaft-Caused-Excessive-Exhaust-Emissions'...Enough, in order To "Pass", and, being that "Rich", will probably Ruin the Cat, or Cats (Cat is short for Catalytic Converter), due to, Overloading the Cat or Cats, with, as I see it...Excessive Hydrocarbons, and maybe Carbon Monoxide Levels as well, and, maybe Excessive NOX (Oxides of Nitrogen), depending on Ignition Timing Advance, and, just how "Hot", Peak Flame Temperature actually gets, at that...!!!................................................Yes-Sir-ee-Bob, this, shall we say, Automotive Hobby of mine, has filled my head, with some pretty interesting stuff alright...lol..........................................................I'll end this episode, with..........................................................The "Choke, Bi-Metal, Coiled-up, Thermostatic Spring", and what to be watchin' out for...............................................................Depending on, just...Which?"...Intake Manifold, that You'll be Installing, on top of, Your "408" Engine, will be the determining factor, on, just How, the Choke Linkage, on Your Thermoquad carburetor, will get "Actuated"......................................................There was Only "One" Thermoquad carburetor, that I can think of, that actually "Had", the "Choke Coil Housing"..."Mounted"...on the "Side", of One particular Thermoquad carburetor "Model", and that particular Thermoquad carburetor, was made/designed, for a "Ford 460 Cubic inch V-8 Engine", if, memory serves me right, that is?................................................................If Push, happens to come to Shove (I just be addin' in some Fun!...lol)...as it pertains, to something like, You Installing an After-Market Performance Intake Manifold, on Your "408", then, if, the Thermoquad carb, that You might be using, will probably have the "Divorced Style" of Thermostatic Choke Coil and Actuating Rod, that Mounts, down in a "Cavity", in/on, the Factory Stock, Cast Iron Intake Manifold, and, the After-Market, Intake Manifolds...most likely..."Will Not"...have that...Choke Coil "Cavity" in them...!!!....................................................I'm sure, that I'll be able to give You some..."Information/Design thoughts"...if, You happen to, want to, maybe, make-up, a..."Manual Choke Control"...for Your Thermoquad carb, if need be..............................................................If, and when, You do, decide to, use and Install a Thermoquad carburetor on Your "408", make sure, that You get a hold of, an..."850 CFM" Model, as there were also..."800 CFM" Models out there as well...!!!.....................................................The "850 CFM Thermoquads" had...1 and 1/2 Inch Diameter, Primary Throttle Bores...where-as...the, "800 CFM Thermoquads" had...1 and 3/8ths Inch Diameter, Throttle Bores...!!! (Bores = Round Holes)................................................Both, the "850-CFM"...and the..."800-CFM"...Thermoquad carburetors had..."2 and 1/4 Inch Diameter Secondary Throttle Bores...just sayin'......................................................"For starters, please let me know, weather or not, Your Vehicle, has to go through the "Smog/Emissions Test", as that will make, or break, Your "408's" Future.......................................................If You are going to be using a Thermoquad carburetor, on Your "408", do You have one already...???...and...if so, have a look-see, on the..."Left Rear, at the Bottom" of Your Thermoquad Carb, where You should be able to see...4 Numbers, that are usually Followed by the Letter "S", as that will be tellin', both, You and I, what we are dealing with!.......................................................Have a close look, at the Thermoquad Carburetor, that I'm using, for all of my UA-cam, Thermoquad carburetor Videos....................................................That's basically what I would be looking for, as the Thermoquad, that happens to be the "Star of the Show" (aka, all of my UA-cam Thermoquad carburetor Videos), and, happens to be as "Simple" as "They get", for the very reason, that, the "Later Made Thermoquad Models", became "Decorated" with, quite a few..."Emissions Gadgets", and are probably "Calibrated Way Too Lean" (air/fuel Ratio-wise), for an Engine, such as Yours!!!................................................Have a Look-See, at My UA-cam Channel, and, perhaps watch the Thermoquad Videos that I have made, so far, as, I'm sure, just like other Folks, You too, will Learn, Lots, about, our good, and not forgotten Friend..."The Thermoquad"...................................If You have any Questions or Concern's at all, pertaining, to just about "Anything-Under-the-Sun"...lol...just leave a Comment or Two, under Any, of My UA-cam Videos, and, Time-permitting, I'll, do what I can, to help You out.........................................................'till next time...Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...The Eddie only has 2-step metering rods, where-as the Thermoquad has 3-steps...Eddies metering rods are controlled only by Vacuum, where-as the Thermoquad has both Vacuum and a "Step-up" Cam on the primary throttle shaft, letting the driver go to a Richer air/fuel mixture on demand with the gas pedal....Also, those aftermarket carb websites warn you about not being "Emissions" Compliant, unless they happen to offer an Emissions Compliant carb model!...Emission Testing in your area?...
...Hopefully your Thermoquad looks much like the one that you see in my videos, because, that is as simple as they can be....At first, I was rather Intimidated by the mere presents of the Thermoquad sitting on top of my engine....Now, I find the Thermoquad so easy to work on, and re-Calibrate/Adjust, now that I'm able to analyze the "Nature of the Beast!"...lol...Please let me know how it's going with your Jensen, and, I'll help you out, if possible....Good luck, and, take care, my Friend.
...Oh no, watch out Philip, I'm on a roll!...lol...Nah, just needed to loosen up a little bit, that's all....Now, on a more serious note, I was just thinking....You had mentioned that you were going to modify your Jensen, and go Fuel Injection?....I know I'm not you, but, If I had a Jensen (Yours!), and, if that Jensen wasn't modified too much already (Body, Chassis, and Drive-train), then I would most certainly retain, and re-build that Thermoquad!....Got you thinking huh?...lol...Take care.
I'm taking my choke plate off
i got an 83 D150 with a 318 that has a thermoquad on it thats a piece of shit. I had the carb professionally rebuilt and took it to a mechanic to have it tuned but i gotta crank on it for about a minute for it to fire up. In my opinion thermoquads are a piece of shit. I took a look at the build sheet behind the seat that was remarkably still there and it came from the factory with a 850cfm thermoquad. WHen im at a stop sign and i let on the gas it chokes itsellf out and stalls. then i gotta go back to cranking. its just crap in my opinion
Greetings...Cooper Listul...........Thanks for watching...........Well, here are a few things, for your consideration..........The earlier Carter Thermoquads, were probably the best ones, as in, up to about 1974, and, there was also a Truck Thermoquad, that went, from about 1974 to about 1977, as well, and here's why...........They were usually calibrated (jetted) with a decent, air/fuel ratio, using 100% Gasoline (not the Ethanol/alcohol stuff, that's usually seen today, which makes for, just about any carburetor, to run on the lean side), and didn't have much in the way of additional "smog gadgets", as compared to, the later/newer Thermoquad models, tend to have, such as your 1983 might have, and also, some of the ones, like yours, will probably be, some-what leaned-out (air/fuel ratio wise), as well, possibly............The only problem that I had with a new Thermoquad (circa-1974), wasn't even the Thermoquad's fault, as it happened to be, the "electric assist", heated, coiled-up choke spring, that sat down into, the V-8's intake manifold...........That darn, electric assist, warming element, would usually heat-up, the coiled up choke spring, a bit too soon, on a cold day, causing my engine to stall, if I were to stop, just a few blocks from home, but, once the engine warmed-up to operating temperature, that particular Thermoquad carb, sure performed awesomely, and then some...!!!..........Sometimes, when a Thermoquad carb, gets older (and, just like most of the other Carbs out there), then, parts tend to get dirty, and/or, worn out as well, and, I had one of those "nitrophyl" (looks like black plastic) floats, start to absorb gasoline, causing it to sink a bit, which made one side of the Thermoquad, to run way too Rich (air/fuel ratio), oh, and, there are also, (hollow) Brass Floats, that can be purchased as well (might just be, a few dollars, difference in price)...........When it comes to rebuilding, setting-up, or making adjustments, to a Thermoquad carb, then, it's very important, to make those Adjustments, in the Correct "Sequence", as in, the Order of making the adjustments, that can usually be found, in a Factory service manual, or, on a Thermoquad, Rebuild Kit's, "instruction sheet", most times........If certain Adjustments, are "Not", done in the "Correct Order", then, what usually happens, is that, some of the Other Adjustments (settings), will get messed up, and then, the Thermoquad carb, doesn't work all that well..........A person, can be really good with other Carburetors, but won't be so good, with a Thermoquad, unless, He or She, takes the time, to study & understand, how all of the Thermoqad's..."linkages & levers"..."etc"...interact/function, as well as, how one particular, adjustment or setting...Affects...any of the other ones, kinda like..."Tying your Shoes"..."Before"..."You put them on your Feet"...!!!...lol (how's that for an example...???)...lol...but, it kinda compares, because, it just doesn't work right (or, at all...lol).........If an engine, that has a Carburetor on it, hasn't been running for a few days or more (weeks or months, maybe), then, here's what I've been doing, for, a very, very long time..........With the vehicle in a well ventilated (fresh air) location (because exhaust gas is Deadly...!!!), I remove the air cleaner housing's Lid, and set it aside...then...I take my little squirt bottle, with a few ounces of gasoline in it, and squirt a couple of table-spoons, of gasoline, into each, of the 2 front/primary throttle bores, while holding open, the choke plate (flap), with the other hand...then...I replace the air cleaner housing's Lid (in case of a back-fire)...then...the engine will usually start, and, if not, just repeat the "Prime" (squirt the gasoline into the Carburetor) routine, and........till next time........Be Safe, take care, and have a good one.
...Also, whenever something like a Thermoquad sits dormant for an extended period of time, things tend to get, well, shall we say, gummed up....Old, stale gas, when it evaporates usually leaves behind a hardened Varnish type of glue, if you will, possibly restricting fuel, or air bleed passages, causing a bad running vehicle....Oh, and, the Gasoline Re-finers/Companies have Reformulated our Gasoline!....The Carburetors of the past were calibrated using the "Good Old Gas!", now Un-Leaded (con't)