Set-up a rappel while you belay

One way to improve efficiency on big climbs is to multi-task while you belay. This could involve eating and drinking, checking a route topo, or setting-up a transition into a different technical system. In this video I demonstrate one way to set-up a rappel while belaying a second climber from the top of a pitch.
Some caveats here: Multi-tasking while belaying works best when working with one rope in the system. If you are belaying with two separate ropes in your belay device (such as when belaying two climbers simultaneously from the top of a pitch) then this technique may be inappropriate due to the complexity of rope management with two ropes and the difficulty of keeping up with two climbers. This technique may also be more difficult if it is easy for your follower to climb the pitch very quickly, such as the case with low angle climbing that has minimal protection to remove.
Once multi-tasking has been mastered you can knock minutes off short multipitch climbs, and hours off complex alpine climbs with many transitions.

[@TheSubieFan]

Just change the title to how to look like a rock star at the crag. Your a wealth of knowledge!

[@GabrielCharette]

Nice! I'd started doing this as well but this video adds a few more interesting tricks I hadn't thought about. I'm curious why you thread the rappel right-to-left here though, with the pile from the plate accumulating on the left, it'd feel more natural to thread the rappel left-to-right? Or is the idea to only have to face left for all the manipulations?
Lastly, I thought LSD meant Load Strand Defeat?

[@matscarensio1940]

When using a sling as personal anchor, why bother with a separate locker and clipping it to your harness instead of just girthing it to your belay loop and clipping both snapgates that came with it to the anchor?

[@sergeyshmakov3094]

Nice video and great channel. Thanks!
General question: is it considered safe to leave ATC (in autoblocking mode) unattended while you are multitasking. i.e. not making catastrophy knot or something for redundancy?
Regarding advance lowering system - what is the difference between it and clipping carabiner higher and redirect strand from other side (make transition to standard lowering setup)?

[@ambrose13]

The load strand direct lower saves at least one step because you don't need to reorient the ATC out of autoblock mode. There is also less friction with the LSD lower

[@sergeyshmakov3094]

@@skillsforclimbing Thank you for the detailed answer! Waiting for new videos!

[@camilocarrillo2132]

@@skillsforclimbing or you could just put a third-hand to backup de atc guise while multitasking right?

[@akaTheDevil]

Is letting go of the brake hand acceptable?

[@skillsforclimbing]

There are situations where letting go of the brake strand on an auto-blocking plate could be dangerous- such as when there is another tensioned rope passing between the load strand and brake strand (most common if you are belaying two people on the same device at the same time). If you are using the proper diameter ropes for your device, you are belaying on an auto-blocking plate such as and ATC guide (and not on a Grigri), and you are only belaying on one rope, then this is fairly common practice. However, because of the failure mechanism mentioned above it is not recommended by manufacturers. Here's a video I created on some of the failures that can occur:
ua-cam.com/video/4nr33w3XGOU/v-deo.html

[@dylanp3008]

You use a round runner here, is that different then a 7mm accessory cord loop tied with double fisherman's or is that the same?

[@AlpineActivist]

I know that wall well. 🤟🏼