Wow... Only 1.73k Sub for such a great channel like this, keep it up bro, u have a great content. and your explanations are very nice (and helpful off course).
@rangertommy, thanks for the suggestion. In many cases I prefer to clip the bolt hangers over the top of the chains as long as this does not result in any leverage on the carabiners. The reason I often opt for this is because it makes the anchor very easy to clean. When the carabiners are clipped under the chains it can be difficult to remove them after you have threaded your lower or rappel. One time I will clip under is if anchors are flat on a slab at the top of a route, and the carabiners might be levered inside the bolt hangers resulting in possible damage to the carabiners. This is a special case, and is not present in this scenario.
I would just add start by putting a quickdraw on one of the bolts and clip yourself to it as if you're still on lead until you're clove hitched into the master point
That's a great question @vickjou4544! Whether to use an equalized v-anchor or a quad is really a personal preference when it comes to good bolts. Both a quad and a V-anchor are plenty strong for the application. In trad climbing and alpine climbing there are times when you reach a ledge and your best anchor option is just two cams (either because you used gear in the pitch below, because there aren't many placement options, or because you are trying to move quickly and the terrain does not demand a three or four point anchor). If I were using two cams for my anchor instead of bolts, and the cams were not both unquestionably strong and in unquestionably strong rock, then I would prefer to use an equalized V-anchor rather than a quad. This is because if one of the placements failed it will take more of a shock-load with a quad than with a V-anchor. In the case of good bolts, it is highly unlikely that one leg of the anchor would fail (if it did it could be because you nose-clipped a carabiner, broke a carabiner by clipping through a point on the anchor that resulted in levering, or the bolt was not placed or tightened appropriately). The next bolt should then still be more than strong enough to handle a small shock-load with the dynamic rope. The two biggest reasons I like to use quads on bolts is 1) If you use a 240cm dyneema quad, and tripple-it before tying the knots (not just doubled), then it is extremely easy to untie- even after it has been under load for an entire day of top roping. No need to pass a carabiner into the knot to help it stay loose. I've used this for setting-up slack lines- which are under quite a bit of tension- and still had minimal difficulty untying the knot at the end of the day. The other reason is because I can pre-tie the quad, and when I reach a bolted anchor I can usually quickly clip it in without the need to make any adjustments. It is self-equalizing. On a multipitch route this is very handy, since I might be trying to stay out of another party's way, and this saves a bit of time. The large separate shelves also are nice when attaching multipitch climbers, since the movement of one climber on the anchor doesn't pull other climber around nearly as much as if they were attached to a V-anchor. But these are personal preferences, and are not more technical system and comfort related than safety.
Love your videos Glen! Very informative and easy to understand. My partner and I have been sport climbing for a fews years and are getting geared up for our first multipitch adventure! I would love to know which gear you prefer to use based on your expertise specific to anchor building and carabiners. There is an overwhelming amount of information online and I'd greatly appreciate your input. Keep the content rolling and stay safe!
Wow... Only 1.73k Sub for such a great channel like this, keep it up bro, u have a great content. and your explanations are very nice (and helpful off course).
At the 2:46 mark, I'd suggest clipping the 'biners into the bolts underneath the chains, rather than on top of them.
@rangertommy, thanks for the suggestion. In many cases I prefer to clip the bolt hangers over the top of the chains as long as this does not result in any leverage on the carabiners. The reason I often opt for this is because it makes the anchor very easy to clean. When the carabiners are clipped under the chains it can be difficult to remove them after you have threaded your lower or rappel. One time I will clip under is if anchors are flat on a slab at the top of a route, and the carabiners might be levered inside the bolt hangers resulting in possible damage to the carabiners. This is a special case, and is not present in this scenario.
@@skillsforclimbing Great explanation of the exceptions!
I would just add start by putting a quickdraw on one of the bolts and clip yourself to it as if you're still on lead until you're clove hitched into the master point
Always love your training videos!
can we talk about the right bolt is loose. But nice video
Super helpful. Cheers
Best video ive seen so far regarding this! Cheers
Thanks so much Matt!
Thanks for the video! Is there any case where you’d use classic anchor vs quad?
That's a great question @vickjou4544! Whether to use an equalized v-anchor or a quad is really a personal preference when it comes to good bolts. Both a quad and a V-anchor are plenty strong for the application. In trad climbing and alpine climbing there are times when you reach a ledge and your best anchor option is just two cams (either because you used gear in the pitch below, because there aren't many placement options, or because you are trying to move quickly and the terrain does not demand a three or four point anchor). If I were using two cams for my anchor instead of bolts, and the cams were not both unquestionably strong and in unquestionably strong rock, then I would prefer to use an equalized V-anchor rather than a quad. This is because if one of the placements failed it will take more of a shock-load with a quad than with a V-anchor. In the case of good bolts, it is highly unlikely that one leg of the anchor would fail (if it did it could be because you nose-clipped a carabiner, broke a carabiner by clipping through a point on the anchor that resulted in levering, or the bolt was not placed or tightened appropriately). The next bolt should then still be more than strong enough to handle a small shock-load with the dynamic rope. The two biggest reasons I like to use quads on bolts is 1) If you use a 240cm dyneema quad, and tripple-it before tying the knots (not just doubled), then it is extremely easy to untie- even after it has been under load for an entire day of top roping. No need to pass a carabiner into the knot to help it stay loose. I've used this for setting-up slack lines- which are under quite a bit of tension- and still had minimal difficulty untying the knot at the end of the day. The other reason is because I can pre-tie the quad, and when I reach a bolted anchor I can usually quickly clip it in without the need to make any adjustments. It is self-equalizing. On a multipitch route this is very handy, since I might be trying to stay out of another party's way, and this saves a bit of time. The large separate shelves also are nice when attaching multipitch climbers, since the movement of one climber on the anchor doesn't pull other climber around nearly as much as if they were attached to a V-anchor. But these are personal preferences, and are not more technical system and comfort related than safety.
Love your videos Glen! Very informative and easy to understand. My partner and I have been sport climbing for a fews years and are getting geared up for our first multipitch adventure! I would love to know which gear you prefer to use based on your expertise specific to anchor building and carabiners. There is an overwhelming amount of information online and I'd greatly appreciate your input. Keep the content rolling and stay safe!
@@skillsforclimbing Yes! Sport climbing adventure. :) You more than answered my question, and I can't thank you enough.
"Take a look at all the components" - right bolt is rattling around loose on the rock...
800lbs is only 3.5kn. That would not be my choice as a single point to clip into. My default is always the quad
@@skillsforclimbing Thank you for the reply and the knowledge you share! Greatly appreciated brother. I'll check the petzl info
I'm not sure if the "working load" is the same as max load, but yes, 800 lbs is weaker than everything he has on his harness.
Pretty sure that’s Working load limit.. with a safety factor of 10(?) that would be 35kN I believe. Maybe someone can verify that.