as a retired teacher and photographer I reckon this is a beautiful video - clear, simple, precise, with well-focused and explained step-by-step instructions. Now in Australia all I have to do is check the relevant parts for my model. It's dripping from the top of the tub from a white plastic pipe that looks dirty outside like a filter but I didn't see if/how that could be removed or checked. Further investigation to do ...
Wonderful video. Before I replace, would using an Ohms meter tell me for sure if the valves are faulty? I got 60 ohms from both the hot and cold. My gut says that is not the issue causing the error code.
An ohms test only tells you if the electrical solenoid is good or bad but there can still be a physical obstruction causing the valve to not open (not fill with water) or to stick open (fill with water when not in use). If the water supply to the washer is good and the water valve is receiving power but not filling with water then the water valve is bad. If the washer fills with water when the washer is unplugged, then the water valve is bad.
My replacement part doesn’t have the same plugs as my original. Also my washing machine seems to only have a cold and hot water dispenser. There is not part of the inlet valve for detergent or anything else.
If the electrical plugs don't match, you may not have the correct part for your model washer. Some model washers do not have the additional connections for the dispensers on the valve.
I just bought a new water inlet valve for my Fisher Paykel washer. The green and yellow wire does not have the plastic plug. All I have is a flat metal connector attached to the wire. I have no way to plug that wire in. Is this a mistake from the manufacturer? or do I need to buy a whole new plug?
It more sounds like an earth lead that you are expected to screw to the metal chassis of the washer somewhere. Inspect the original, and if its not present, double check you have the correct part.
Ryan, I have a drip from the water fill nozzle. I took it off as per your instructions. It was gunked up with calcium deposits from my hard water, so I cleaned it and the elbow nozzle. I put the fill nozzle back on but didn't put that last screw in, to see if cleaning the part did the trick. Then I put the fill nozzle screw in, which slightly pulls the fill nozzle out of the elbow just enough that it started leaking again. So how do I know if I need a new fill nozzle, elbow nozzle or water inlet valve? The parts aren't cheap (esp. the water inlet valve but even the fill nozzle is crazy $$) so I want to make sure I'm replacing the right parts. What do you suggest?
I have a similar Fisher and Paykel washer which has an annoying intermittent fault in that it will not turn on when mains is switched on or the On button is pressed. The only noise I can hear is a tapping noise like a relay going off and on. When I poke around the two water inlet solenoids I manage to get it working again, till next time. My question is this, is there an electronic interlock which prevents power up and related to these solenoids? I’m really just grabbing at straws here as I’ve no real indicators of what’s happening. Any reply much appreciated, before I go buy a new controller which is not cheap and may not fix the fault. Cheers
@@PartsDr Thanks Doc, I’ll keep trying. Yes, the water valves cable comes directly from the controller but the intermittent nature of the fault has me thinking something is not quite doing what it should (sometimes). Haha. Thanks for your reply. Appreciate it.
as a retired teacher and photographer I reckon this is a beautiful video - clear, simple, precise, with well-focused and explained step-by-step instructions. Now in Australia all I have to do is check the relevant parts for my model. It's dripping from the top of the tub from a white plastic pipe that looks dirty outside like a filter but I didn't see if/how that could be removed or checked. Further investigation to do ...
Thanks! Good luck with the repair!
Nice video Ryan. High quality and very helpful.
Thank you!
Thanks Mate, well explained, my job went almost as smoothly as yours.👌👌
Great, nice job!
Thanks for the video, Ryan
You're welcome!
Fantastic video. Straight to the point. Thank you. Liked and subbed.
Thank you!
Excellent
Thank you!
Wonderful video. Before I replace, would using an Ohms meter tell me for sure if the valves are faulty? I got 60 ohms from both the hot and cold. My gut says that is not the issue causing the error code.
An ohms test only tells you if the electrical solenoid is good or bad but there can still be a physical obstruction causing the valve to not open (not fill with water) or to stick open (fill with water when not in use). If the water supply to the washer is good and the water valve is receiving power but not filling with water then the water valve is bad. If the washer fills with water when the washer is unplugged, then the water valve is bad.
My replacement part doesn’t have the same plugs as my original. Also my washing machine seems to only have a cold and hot water dispenser. There is not part of the inlet valve for detergent or anything else.
If the electrical plugs don't match, you may not have the correct part for your model washer. Some model washers do not have the additional connections for the dispensers on the valve.
I just bought a new water inlet valve for my Fisher Paykel washer. The green and yellow wire does not have the plastic plug. All I have is a flat metal connector attached to the wire. I have no way to plug that wire in. Is this a mistake from the manufacturer? or do I need to buy a whole new plug?
It sounds like the part is defective. The part should have the colored electrical plug on the solenoid as shown in our video.
It more sounds like an earth lead that you are expected to screw to the metal chassis of the washer somewhere. Inspect the original, and if its not present, double check you have the correct part.
Ryan, I have a drip from the water fill nozzle. I took it off as per your instructions. It was gunked up with calcium deposits from my hard water, so I cleaned it and the elbow nozzle. I put the fill nozzle back on but didn't put that last screw in, to see if cleaning the part did the trick. Then I put the fill nozzle screw in, which slightly pulls the fill nozzle out of the elbow just enough that it started leaking again. So how do I know if I need a new fill nozzle, elbow nozzle or water inlet valve? The parts aren't cheap (esp. the water inlet valve but even the fill nozzle is crazy $$) so I want to make sure I'm replacing the right parts. What do you suggest?
If water drips into the washer and fills up the tub when the washer is unplugged, then the water inlet valve is bad.
I have a similar Fisher and Paykel washer which has an annoying intermittent fault in that it will not turn on when mains is switched on or the On button is pressed. The only noise I can hear is a tapping noise like a relay going off and on.
When I poke around the two water inlet solenoids I manage to get it working again, till next time.
My question is this, is there an electronic interlock which prevents power up and related to these solenoids?
I’m really just grabbing at straws here as I’ve no real indicators of what’s happening. Any reply much appreciated, before I go buy a new controller which is not cheap and may not fix the fault. Cheers
You would need to check the wiring diagram for your model washer. Typically, the water inlet valve solenoids are powered by the control module.
@@PartsDr Thanks Doc, I’ll keep trying. Yes, the water valves cable comes directly from the controller but the intermittent nature of the fault has me thinking something is not quite doing what it should (sometimes). Haha. Thanks for your reply. Appreciate it.
@@coloz4565 Let us know what you find the solution is.