Thanks, this video was very helpful. I just replaced the water valve this weekend, which fixed my bottom drawer error. A few notes: -- I found it difficult to work the valve out from the side and under drawer rail. There is a grounding screw in the middle of the tray holding the electronics that you can undo so the tray can move out of the way more. However I wish I hadn't unscrewed that because it was very tricky to reposition the tray and get that screw restarted in the chassis hole. So I would advise NOT doing that next time! -- Probably the hardest/most frustrating part was getting the hose clamps off. I really felt like I was destroying them by removing them. They seemed to re-clamp OK, but I hope they hold. I think Fisher-Paykel should have included 2 new clamps with the part, as they are only $5.99 on their website. I kind of want to just order some new ones, but I really don't want to do half the job over again just to replace them. -- Make note of how the hoses are threaded through their plastic guides. I made the mistake of reconnecting the main supply first and having it in the wrong spot relative to the two smaller hoses and the guides. So had to disconnect and reconnect it after threading it through correctly. Just something to be aware of. -- Before putting the drawer back on the rails, I used the diagnostic mode to run the fill valve and see that it was working correctly and there were no leaks at the hoses. Also let me verify that I connected the hoses and the wires correctly so that the right drawer was filling.
Fisher Paykel model DD24SAX9 N single draw dish washer error code A6. Remedy was to replace the single water inlet valve part number 529827 24volt $18.00 Turn the breaker and water flow to the dishwasher off. Push the clips on the bottom sides of the draw and then push the rails/slides all the way in while pulling the draw out, be care to not bend the water lines and power cord. You have just enough room to lean the draw up and out of the way. Then take a small flat head screw driver and remove the plastic cover that’s covering the electronics etc. Pull the old inlet valve out of its holding spot (just gravity holding it there) and then detach the tiny 24v 2 wire electric cord connector from the water inlet valve, next put a thick towel under the water inlet valve that you’re replacing to catch residual water and unscrew the water input, next remove the blew hose clip (I used 2 tiny flat head screw drivers to separate the teeth) and then use a small flat head screw driver and work the hose off of the water valve and then pull the hose all the way off. Keep the old valve in case this isn’t what’s wrong with your unit. Put the new unit in reversing the steps said above. Test the dish washer for 5 minutes running water etc through the unit then turn the unit off and then after letting the water drip from the top of the dishwasher into the draw for 30 minutes, open the dish washer and shine a flash light under the draw and check for any leaks.
Good stuff buddy, but from one appliance tech to another, I see that your wearing slippers. It's never a good thing whenever your working with water and electricity, so for your safety i advise you to please wear proper covered shoes. It can save your life in the long run!
I did this job on a double dish drawer. after keep getting E5 error on bottom drawer . top is fine. I check all hoses many times. what could be the issue? I am a serviceman for over 37 yrs just not on fisherpaykel
Thanks for the advice. In the whole process I find out the culprit to my problem. The problem started with water going into the soap dispenser non-stop creating a flooding issue. I took the dispenser apart and checked the solenoid resistance and voltage, both good. So that lead me next to the water input valve. Water valve is NC until solenoid activate, mine was open. Now 2 days before the malfunction I installed a new water heater and the residues in the tank plug up the water valve preventing it to go to NC position. I clean the valve with a dental waterpik reinstalled and now it is working again.
HI. Would you be able to confirm if the water feed hose to this unit is the ONLY option to use with this dishwasher? Someone made a mistake with my unit and cut the hose in between the two fittings thinking it was OD diameter .375 to connect with a simple compression fitting. It is NOT. It is close to .400 of an inch.. Again, Can I use a universal dishwasher hose braided stainless steel hose for dishwashers with elbow commonly sold at stores? Are the threads identical or do I need to buy a new $70 genuine Fisherpaykel new hose?
If I could use something else, it would also have the added benefit that the orginal Fisher Paykel hose is soooo stiff hard plastic it is annoying. Thanks if you can confirm
Hello , if universal hose does bot interfere with cavity of the unit , I would definitely use it . Stainless steel braided hoses more flexible and stronger compare to original hose that’s comes with dishwasher. If you feel safe do it . Otherwise I recommend OEM fisher Paykel hose ✌️
@@hameedwafaAFG Thanks for this. I will look at the shape of elbow first. I see some elbows have a hard 90 degree to them, some others have more of a curve. One might do a better fit than the other. I sure want my bottom drawer to still close properly and guard to snap back on. Once again, thanks for tip. I can see some people may swap the brass threaded part for the orginal plastic one that comes with unit. I see some videos of people doing that coming to an issue if their replacement fitting is a hard 90 degree one as it will not allow threaded ring to slide over the elbow.. Yes, i will check shape of original elbow first so to prevent issue.
Hi, I hope this comment reaches you. I can use your help. But, unfortunately, you are in Canada, and, I’m in Northern California. I have been scouring UA-cam, looking for a solution. I have an old fisher&paykel dd603 from 2004 that was used for only 4 years. In 2008 it was put in a storage. I have had it reinstalled and I’m using it again. Top drawer drains in the bottom drawer & vice a versa. Any advice? Do you think that’s a sign of problem with the valve? Does the double drawer use the same part number valve? Thank you.
Thanks, this video was very helpful. I just replaced the water valve this weekend, which fixed my bottom drawer error. A few notes:
-- I found it difficult to work the valve out from the side and under drawer rail. There is a grounding screw in the middle of the tray holding the electronics that you can undo so the tray can move out of the way more. However I wish I hadn't unscrewed that because it was very tricky to reposition the tray and get that screw restarted in the chassis hole. So I would advise NOT doing that next time!
-- Probably the hardest/most frustrating part was getting the hose clamps off. I really felt like I was destroying them by removing them. They seemed to re-clamp OK, but I hope they hold. I think Fisher-Paykel should have included 2 new clamps with the part, as they are only $5.99 on their website. I kind of want to just order some new ones, but I really don't want to do half the job over again just to replace them.
-- Make note of how the hoses are threaded through their plastic guides. I made the mistake of reconnecting the main supply first and having it in the wrong spot relative to the two smaller hoses and the guides. So had to disconnect and reconnect it after threading it through correctly. Just something to be aware of.
-- Before putting the drawer back on the rails, I used the diagnostic mode to run the fill valve and see that it was working correctly and there were no leaks at the hoses. Also let me verify that I connected the hoses and the wires correctly so that the right drawer was filling.
Good job 😁Thank you for extra info .
Fisher Paykel model DD24SAX9 N single draw dish washer error code A6. Remedy was to replace the single water inlet valve part number 529827 24volt $18.00
Turn the breaker and water flow to the dishwasher off.
Push the clips on the bottom sides of the draw and then push the rails/slides all the way in while pulling the draw out, be care to not bend the water lines and power cord. You have just enough room to lean the draw up and out of the way. Then take a small flat head screw driver and remove the plastic cover that’s covering the electronics etc. Pull the old inlet valve out of its holding spot (just gravity holding it there) and then detach the tiny 24v 2 wire electric cord connector from the water inlet valve, next put a thick towel under the water inlet valve that you’re replacing to catch residual water and unscrew the water input, next remove the blew hose clip (I used 2 tiny flat head screw drivers to separate the teeth) and then use a small flat head screw driver and work the hose off of the water valve and then pull the hose all the way off. Keep the old valve in case this isn’t what’s wrong with your unit. Put the new unit in reversing the steps said above. Test the dish washer for 5 minutes running water etc through the unit then turn the unit off and then after letting the water drip from the top of the dishwasher into the draw for 30 minutes, open the dish washer and shine a flash light under the draw and check for any leaks.
It was so useful thank you so much❤
I m glad it’s helpful ✌️
Good stuff! Thanks!
No Thank you!
Thanks for the video! Any tips on how to get the hose clamp off? I cannot remove it
Use a wise grip pliers or needle nose
Good stuff buddy, but from one appliance tech to another, I see that your wearing slippers. It's never a good thing whenever your working with water and electricity, so for your safety i advise you to please wear proper covered shoes. It can save your life in the long run!
What kind of magnetic lights are those?
Rechargeable COB LED Cube Light 300 Lumen Waterproof Portable Pocket Light
Do you have a part number for the solenoid- I am having an issue where after the top drawer finishes there is clean water in the bottom drawer
529827
I did this job on a double dish drawer. after keep getting E5 error on bottom drawer . top is fine. I check all hoses many times. what could be the issue? I am a serviceman for over 37 yrs just not on fisherpaykel
I have an DD602 lots of parts are discontinued. My question, is this inlet valve universal hate to take the machine to the dumpster.
I think there is a good chance you can use new Samsung or GE water valve if you really want to
Thanks for the advice. In the whole process I find out the culprit to my problem. The problem started with water going into the soap dispenser non-stop creating a flooding issue. I took the dispenser apart and checked the solenoid resistance and voltage, both good. So that lead me next to the water input valve. Water valve is NC until solenoid activate, mine was open. Now 2 days before the malfunction I installed a new water heater and the residues in the tank plug up the water valve preventing it to go to NC position. I clean the valve with a dental waterpik reinstalled and now it is working again.
HI. Would you be able to confirm if the water feed hose to this unit is the ONLY option to use with this dishwasher? Someone made a mistake with my unit and cut the hose in between the two fittings thinking it was OD diameter .375 to connect with a simple compression fitting. It is NOT. It is close to .400 of an inch.. Again, Can I use a universal dishwasher hose braided stainless steel hose for dishwashers with elbow commonly sold at stores? Are the threads identical or do I need to buy a new $70 genuine Fisherpaykel new hose?
If I could use something else, it would also have the added benefit that the orginal Fisher Paykel hose is soooo stiff hard plastic it is annoying. Thanks if you can confirm
Hello , if universal hose does bot interfere with cavity of the unit , I would definitely use it . Stainless steel braided hoses more flexible and stronger compare to original hose that’s comes with dishwasher. If you feel safe do it . Otherwise I recommend OEM fisher Paykel hose ✌️
@@hameedwafaAFG Thanks for this. I will look at the shape of elbow first. I see some elbows have a hard 90 degree to them, some others have more of a curve. One might do a better fit than the other. I sure want my bottom drawer to still close properly and guard to snap back on. Once again, thanks for tip. I can see some people may swap the brass threaded part for the orginal plastic one that comes with unit. I see some videos of people doing that coming to an issue if their replacement fitting is a hard 90 degree one as it will not allow threaded ring to slide over the elbow.. Yes, i will check shape of original elbow first so to prevent issue.
Do this dishwasher have drain pump? I was working on one today
That wash motor at the centre is actually the drain pump and wash motor 😅this is a confusing system . lol
@@hameedwafaAFG lol
Hi, I hope this comment reaches you. I can use your help. But, unfortunately, you are in Canada, and, I’m in Northern California.
I have been scouring UA-cam, looking for a solution. I have an old fisher&paykel dd603 from 2004 that was used for only 4 years. In 2008 it was put in a storage. I have had it reinstalled and I’m using it again. Top drawer drains in the bottom drawer & vice a versa. Any advice? Do you think that’s a sign of problem with the valve? Does the double drawer use the same part number valve? Thank you.
Hi , probably drain hose is not installed properly.