So after educating myself on my Electrolux washer through many of these videos, I found the culprit of an error 11 in a dead coil on the water inlet valve. I was going to order the full valve assembly, but it was not in stock.. I decided that I might as well try something if we're going to replace it anyway. I took the coil from the bleach dispensing solenoid (teal capped), fitted it with the dead coil's plastic connector cap (brown capped prewash solenoid) and did a swap. We rarely use bleach and at 180$ for the valve assembly I gave it a shot... And I have a working washer now!
I'm SO Non-Mechanical but I'm trying to learn from your Videos and I DID Manage (some how) to get The water to fill! Just having troubles now putting the back on agbain with the water flowing into the bin and not all over the floor! and those 2 questions... I really appreciate your help. And I willl keep you in mind for any and all parts when needed! You are great for planting up these Videos for everybody! Peace my friend. and Thanks Again!
The water valve tested had a coil with a resistance of around 1083 ohms which is typical of most valves. The meter is zeroed out on the right side of the x10 scale. When the coil is checked the meter is reading correctly. If the coil was shorted the needle would go all the way over to the right side towards the 0 or no resistance side of the scale. If the coil was open the needle would not move at all and stay on the left side.
I have used this site for several small appliance repairs and it has been wonderful. Very clear step by step instructions. I will always come her first to look for information.
Thank you very much, my front loader stopped taking in water, I opened it up, removed the water inlet valve, tested it for currency, and it showed error, then I ordered a new part. Saved me heaps of money. Thank you so much.
thank you for the video, very helpful, I have bosch washer machine double water valve with black covered board attached to the neck of it, , is it a flow meter sensor? and is there is any way to test it?
This worked perfectly for me. One of the Cold-Water solenoids was open. This matched what I saw ..I used the hand wash and tried first hot only and then cold water and saw only a slow drip for the cold-water hand wash. Replaced the cold-water solenoid and all is well. Thank you for the video. I have a Maytag machine model MVWX655DW1.
I had the same problem and found on a repair comment board that it was a disconnected water inlet tube. Take off the top with the two back screws and check the small hose connected to the bottom of the round water inlet sensor. Mine was at the front right.
Thanks so much for the testing of the solenoid coils...Easy to do and the problem was with those new "safety hoses".. The device had "shut itself off" so no water coming in from the HOT connection and made it seem like it was the timer...it was not the timer or the valves...it was the SAFETY HOSES. WE ALWAYS SHUT OFF THE WATER TO OUR HOUSE WHEN WE LEAVE SO...THIS STUFF IS JUST A PROBLEM WAITING TO HAPPEN...THE COILS WERE GOOD, CHECKED HOSES, HOT HOSE NO GO!! CASE CLOSED...THANK YOU, THANK YOU..
I have received a great deal of help through this site over the past 3 years and need it again. I own a Fisher & Paykel GWL11 that is overfilling, not draining, nor agitating. Upon opening the top I found that one or both of the inlet valves were leaking into the motor control board area. I opened the brown plastic casing to inspect the electronic board and I could not see any visible damage. It was obvious with the heavy mineral deposits that the leak was long term. The diagnostic mode code was 11111000. Both inlet valves checked at 600 ohms. Is there a way to check the motor control board? I am a widow on disability and need to make sure before I replace a part that it's absolutely necessary.
I have no continuity but when I tested the incoming power while the washer machine had power I was not get 120v on 32v would I also have another electrical issue?
The thermistor (part with the two prongs sticking out) senses the water temp and allows it to be controlled automatically. If you can’t get water out on any of the settings you need to see if you are getting power to the coil. If you have power to the coil and water is on, the valve is bad.
my washer fills fine on wash cycle but only fills about one third of the way on the rinse cycle . are there 2 different fill valves? i have a 2015 GE washing machine
Thank you...You don't know how much help this is...I am in North Borneo and without technical help...I try to repair what I can myself...I replaced the washing machine drum and lasted over a year now gone dead...The company said test the water supply valve...Had no idea how to till now...
***** It was the control board that burnt out. This video helped me to prove to the company that it was not the inlet valve. They sent me a new board and it works again...Thanks.
Hi, my issue is that when the load is complete and the washer turns off, water still drains into the tub. You can actually see water filling the tub. When you shut the water off it stops filling.
Question, I have a code 49. I checked continuity of both valves-good. Replaced inlet value. Continuity good, same error. Water supply good. I noticed a terminal with 5 purple wires unplugged, what are these for? Controller 421438USP. P7CPE. ANY SUGGESTIONS?
ok, thanks for being so Quick Too! 1. the prongs on the end of that theromoster, (that round thing with 2 prongs sticking out) - I dont see at all where those prongs would go into! DO they EVEN GO Into Anything? If so,. any chance you have a picture or details of where/.what they plug into b/c i see nothing even close to it! and 2. Im trying to close everything up now - but still have the plastic inlet-valve casing.. How does it go back on? cant seem to figure out how to place it on again. lame
My wash machine turns on and let's me set the type of wash. But after like 30 seconds after pushing start the minute illumination flashes and doesn't fill.
If no power is getting to the valve you will need to trace the power back and see where you are losing it, (pressure switch, timer etc.) A valve coil can still show continuity and not let water thru. The thermistor is usually a high resistance so it will not show on a meter unless you use the higher settings.
I have a whirlpool duet washer with brand new motherboard but no power for solenoids out of the motherboard. The PSI switch is good. Where is the timer you are talking about here located
You're welcome! We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review We hope that you have a great day!
Hi mate, i have a problem. I have a front loading zanussi fls-571c thats running on a manual timer control. The problem is it spins, it rinses. But it doesn't wash. After filling up water, the water stops and the timer clicks but no washing starts and no voltage on the capacitor either that starts the motor but voltage present during rinse and spin about 400V plus. After the rinse or spin completes, the capacitor voltage drops to zero instantly. Could that be a capacitor fault? Or something else? Please help.
Jim Nichols 200 might be too high. Try the single digits or the lowest setting. Both the old valve and brand new one are not going to have 4 open coils. Do you get zero when you touch your leads together? If not you likely have a bad lead or a problem with the meter.
Sir one problem is in LG TOP LOAD washing machine inlet valve have continous supply when machine main supply on means water continue on so if i checked at valve continous supply shown so pls suggest solution is it possible triac is on when main supply on
Hi! Thank you for your video. I set my digital multimeter in continuity and It showed no continuity. After, I set the multimeter in resistance and I got 3.7K ohms in both, the sigle and the double solenoides. My solenide is Fisher and paykel Brand. (VALVE INLET COLD DOUBLE - 790418 - Fisher & Paykel). Can this resistance value be a open circuit? showing that the solenoides are faulty? Thank u in advance
RepairClinic.com I also got no continuity on my multimeter but 3.7k ohms resistance on the solenoids. So I guess my water pressure inlet valve is ok .? Thanks
The pressure switch is good. The technician does not know what's wrong. The fill valves will not open to let water in if the fill valve solenoids do not get the 120V to operate
Very useful video. Thanks. Mine is this model and it leaks at the dual valve & drips at the right knob (inside). How do fix for the dripping problem? Thanks again.
I have a GE front loader washer & have no water. I tested the like the video. But I have o on my meter. The company said that that it doesn't show anything on the meter? The new one has nothing on the meter also? can you help.
Jim Nichols You must set your meter to Ohms when conducting this test. When you touch the leads together you should get zero ohms and when the lead are apart most meters read OL (open line). Normally, when testing issues arise people does have the meter set to the correct setting or the ohm range they selected is too high. Most coils will read between 5-500 ohms. The main thing is you get a resistance and not an OL.
hello, I watched that video and Im trying to test the water valve. I have a whirlpool cabrio wtw5500wx1. well, i changed the drain pump and the belt, because let the clothes wet. Well, i dont know what can be. By the way, while the washer starts i saw that water coming from the bottom, i dont know if i need to replace the shift actuator or the both valve. When I tested the valve with a digital milimeter show me 1.01. what it is means? was i little crazy when in the wash cycle im still hearing water coming inside the basket. Please I need help, by the way you have useful videos that helped to install the two parts that i mentioned.
+guerreradecristo777 Each solenoid coil should measure between 5-500 ohms resistance. The wiring diagram will give the specific ohm values, but in general as long as the coil has a resistance and not shorted open then it is likely still good. The problem though is valves can fail mechanically too so the test is not always conclusive.
I just finished a load of laundry and then when I went to do another I pulled the start knob, water came out for like a sec and then stopped. I can't get anything now. Is this most likely the issue? What else could it be?
My Whirlpool Imperial Series top load washer is dispensing hot water when it is not supposed to. It does it when it is in agitate mode and when it is set on cold water. Does this sound like the water inlet valve?
We recommend that you verify the water hoses are connected to the correct hot and cold fittings on the washer first. They should be labeled on the back. If you set the water temp to hot and you get cold water, the hoses will most likely need to be reversed. If they are on correctly, the wiring may have been mistakenly reversed. Was it repaired recently? Another possibility is that the temperature switch may be bad.
Hello there, the water inlet in my LG top load washing machine pumped little to no water when turned on, so I removed the inlet valve assembly, cleaned it, and put it back in its place exactly the same way it was. But after this, it started pumping so much water through the water inlet/detergent drawer even when the machine is turned off. What might have gone wrong? Thank you for any help!
I successfully repaired the valve by cleaning it with some anti scaling removal liquid and it works without an issue. If its still buzzing you do not need to replace the whole valve. Just open the screws and clean it and try.
I checked the valves on a machine that had 'no-hot-fill error' and all of them got continuity around 1K ohms but I went ahead and replaced the 'Inlet Valve Assembly' and the machine was back in service. After that, upon the dis-assembly of the old valve, I found out that the rubber diaphragm in the hot-water inlet valve is teared. So, I've learned, although the valves are 'electrically sound', they can be 'mechanically faulty.
the problem here i have right now its the voltage was dessapear from the connector goes to the cold .. i test the intlet alone its ok, i check the hose its ok. the behaviour its fill slow in cold i connect the multineter and i see whenhit start the voltage 125 only was one second then dessapear and if you pt the hot the 125 are steady if put hot and cold the voltage goes on and off. i check this connecting only the multimeter lead to washer cables goes in the inlet valve. and the washer its a westi g house i can find anywhere any service manual. its wwac14m3hekw
Thank you for the video. I followed the instructions and my Fluke T5-600 electrical tester indicated that the solenoids for the hot water valve had a reading of 897. For the cold water valve the reading was 890. These were within the acceptable range indicated in the video, so I concluded that the valve did not have an electrical failure. However, when I was discussing this with the friend who had given me the Fluke T5-600, he asked if the tester made a noise when I ran the tests. I informed him that it did not, and he said that if the tester didn't make a beeping noise then I did not have continuity and did, in fact, have a faulty valve. Is it true that the ohm readings must be accompanied by a beep or noise of some sort on the test instrument in order to be accurate?
Electrical engineer here. Beeps not needed for an ohmmeter to read ohms value accurately . 890 sounds fine for a good coil. There is usually a separate audible continuity setting on the meter that will beep when low resistance is detected. This mode is used mostly when hunting for short circuits, and the exact value doesn't matter to the user.
@@jeffweber8244 Thanks! I'll try to remember that (but will probably forget) for future reference. Not too long after my original post, I threw in the (dirty) towel and just got a new washing machine. ;-)
My front load Bosch washer has a slow water leak into the wash drum when not in use. In 2 or 3 days, it has maybe a cup of water in it. However, when we unplug the machine, it doesn't appear to be leaking at all. Could this still be a water inlet valve failure? Why would it fail when turned off, but not when unplugged?
+Donna McRee That does not make much sense. The inlet valve needs 120 volts to open. The washer might leave more water in than you think to reduce the risk of seals drying out.
Came here to confirm coil value I was reading matched others. I was recently shipped an inlet valve with a failed coil on cold side. Beware of cheap knockoff parts. Replacing with a USA-made OEM part for a few bucks more.
OEM parts are built to last with rigorous industry standards and testing. All the parts we sell are OEM parts, which you can find here: RepairClinic.com
I’ve got good pressure and 1.002kohms with 24v coming to to inlet valves when on. Washer makes a humming noise when calling for water but no water. 🤷🏽♂️
Apparently I powered everything down checked and when I turned on cold it ran and now is giving hot and cold on demand. What could cause intermittent issue like that?
mikeokizichy The main drive motor has to be running in order to operate the drain pump on the Performa's. If you don't here the motor running then water is likely siphoning out. This occurs if you sealed the drain hose to the stand pipe.
***** I've made no changes. Is this something that occurs on it's own? We do have low water pressure which sometimes drops really low due to a public works project which damaged some pipes. It should be fixed by the end of the month.
mikeokizichy The drain hose sometime gets pushed too far down the pipe which seals it. Low water pressure could allow water to enter the washer, but siphoning is odd.
My machine automatically fills the tub with water when it is turned on, and there is no way to stop it except to turn the machine off or to close the water line. I suppose it would overflow if i left it on long enough, but i don't want to find out. Does this sound like a water inlet valve problem?
I tested it electrically (as instructed in the video) with a tone and it had no tone, so i figured it failed electrically. But since the water only flows when the machine is turned on, that didn't make sense to me. so i reinstalled into the machine, plugged it in and turned it on. There's a rattling sound accompanying a vibration in the valve when the power comes on, so does that mean it's a mechanical failure? I mean it's a valve so it should just open or close, but it seems like it's spinning around and around inside. Or maybe it's an electrical problem in the panel?
“If no power is getting to the valve you will need to trace the power back and see where you are losing it, (pressure switch, timer etc.)” what other things should I be checking for?? My inlet valves are “good” but the hot water one is not dispensing. The cold water works fine. I don’t know why only one of them works but the other doesn’t
I have a whirlpool duet washer with brand new motherboard but no power for solenoids out of the motherboard. Where is the timer you are talking about here located
my problem is draining while filing? and machine cant start cause it cant load water to wash. i have samsung WA80V4 fully automatic diamond drum . can someone help me how to fix this.
I'm confused, I thought if the valve has infinite resistance then the valve has failed. In this case shouldn't the meter needle peg out to it's highest setting, rather than not moving which would indicate zero resistance?
I have replaced my cold/hot inlet valve in my machine (fisher and Paykel mw512) as soon as I turn power on it just beeps and has lights 3,4 and 8 which I was told is inlet valve problem, I replaced valve but still beeping the same any help would be much appreciated
We recommend that you verify the wires to the valve are not broken. Since you already replaced the valve and got the same problem, it is most likely not the valve. If the wires to the valve are ok, you may have a bad control board.
The valve come with replacement wires so I don't think that could be it, is a fault board a technician job or something I could have a crack at myself?
Barry Rowbotham Certainly could be a main control problem but the only way to know for sure would be to do some electrical testing with the wiring diagram from inside the washer and a multimeter.
I don't understand why in 2:38 he says that there are a risk of "heart failure" if you try to repair the valve... I'm not a native english speaker, so sorry if it is a misunderstanding. Thanks in advance!
+Nazaret García He said "PART" failure, not "Heart" Failure. Fortunately we are only dealing with a Washer here and not the valves on a human heart! :)
"Trying to clean out an old valve is not recommended due to the risk of part failure after repair". Yeah, more like "Trying to clean out an old valve is not recommended due to it working in most cases and we lose money on parts".
In all the time it takes to do this, just spend the 37 bucks for a new inlet valve, take 20 minutes to install it, and call it a day. It's most likely a water inlet valve failure since everything made in China lasts 2 years at most. Our washer never worked right from day one, taking 3 hours to do a 1-hour cycle.
Its very simple to take apart the valve and clean it. If the solenoid is working then it.'s 99% chance the seals are dirty and or the inner screen is blocked. I have done this many times on almost all washer brands and never had any part fail. If you take it apart and find broken pieces then the plastic failed not the Solenoid.
@@repairclinic that's why you test the solenoids. If the solenoids are bad yeah replace the entire valve. But opening the valve to clean out two screens if they're clogged it's very straightforward. And I would say if you don't know how to disassemble the valve or test to solenoid you shouldn't be taking apart the washing machine in the first place. And if what you're saying is true that can happen at any time if the valve gets stuck open without even opening up the valve so what's your point.
@@repairclinic Again no difference if they fail without taken them apart. I have never had one fail. Again no difference if your hot water tank fails and floods the house or a toilet line fails. What your point.
We're happy to help!
So after educating myself on my Electrolux washer through many of these videos, I found the culprit of an error 11 in a dead coil on the water inlet valve. I was going to order the full valve assembly, but it was not in stock.. I decided that I might as well try something if we're going to replace it anyway.
I took the coil from the bleach dispensing solenoid (teal capped), fitted it with the dead coil's plastic connector cap (brown capped prewash solenoid) and did a swap. We rarely use bleach and at 180$ for the valve assembly I gave it a shot... And I have a working washer now!
I'm SO Non-Mechanical but I'm trying to learn from your Videos and I DID Manage (some how) to get The water to fill!
Just having troubles now putting the back on agbain with the water flowing into the bin and not all over the floor!
and those 2 questions... I really appreciate your help.
And I willl keep you in mind for any and all parts when needed!
You are great for planting up these Videos for everybody!
Peace my friend.
and Thanks Again!
The water valve tested had a coil with a resistance of around 1083 ohms which is typical of most valves. The meter is zeroed out on the right side of the x10 scale. When the coil is checked the meter is reading correctly. If the coil was shorted the needle would go all the way over to the right side towards the 0 or no resistance side of the scale. If the coil was open the needle would not move at all and stay on the left side.
I have used this site for several small appliance repairs and it has been wonderful. Very clear step by step instructions. I will always come her first to look for information.
+Laura Lamphear Thank you for your business.
You guys rock, thanks for all of these videos!
You're welcome!
Hi, thank you this technique worked. What about if the tub overfills?
Thank you very much for the video.
It was very helpful instructions to test my water inlet solenoids.
+Vic Krue Great, thanks!
I repaired my washer following this and others videos. Thanks.
What was your issue and what did you do to fix it
This was excellent. Thanks.
Thank you very much, my front loader stopped taking in water, I opened it up, removed the water inlet valve, tested it for currency, and it showed error, then I ordered a new part. Saved me heaps of money. Thank you so much.
Thanks! Saved me lots!
thanks a lot, clean and easy tutorial..
Thanks alot, your video was very helpful.
thanks for the video, very helpfull
EXCELLENT video.
Thanks for your videos I test the water inlet valve w10364989 -w10200526 in ohms it measures 778 k ohm your think it's good or bad thanks
thank you for the video, very helpful, I have bosch washer machine double water valve with black covered board attached to the neck of it, , is it a flow meter sensor? and is there is any way to test it?
Very good tutorial. Thank you!
This worked perfectly for me. One of the Cold-Water solenoids was open. This matched what I saw ..I used the hand wash and tried first hot only and then cold water and saw only a slow drip for the cold-water hand wash. Replaced the cold-water solenoid and all is well. Thank you for the video. I have a Maytag machine model MVWX655DW1.
Very good video.
Quick question, if water is trickling into the tub when the machine is off, do you change the water supply hose fitted to the inlet valve?? Thanks.
Thank for the video ,thumbs up
Great little video. Tested my valve and indeed the cold side was dead electrically.
Great video
Y’all have a video with the water inlet guide like how it looks inside , we dropped our n few pieces fell out
Thanks for the video, very helpfull
Michael Anthony Sawyer Glad it was helpful!
If you could comment once more with your last two questions, we'd be happy to answer them. It appears they were lost.
हिंदी में भी बानऊ
I had the same problem and found on a repair comment board that it was a disconnected water inlet tube. Take off the top with the two back screws and check the small hose connected to the bottom of the round water inlet sensor. Mine was at the front right.
what to do in magnetic valve case please help
Excellent
I did it it shows it good what is going on with it it will run on for just a short time and stop I don't know what to look for
Thanks so much for the testing of the solenoid coils...Easy to do and the problem was with those new "safety hoses".. The device had "shut itself off" so no water coming in from the HOT connection and made it seem like it was the timer...it was not the timer or the valves...it was the SAFETY HOSES.
WE ALWAYS SHUT OFF THE WATER TO OUR HOUSE WHEN WE LEAVE SO...THIS STUFF IS JUST A PROBLEM WAITING TO HAPPEN...THE COILS WERE GOOD, CHECKED HOSES, HOT HOSE NO GO!! CASE CLOSED...THANK YOU, THANK YOU..
What does it mean if the multimeter is around 230 on 200 ohms?
I have received a great deal of help through this site over the past 3 years and need it again. I own a Fisher & Paykel GWL11 that is overfilling, not draining, nor agitating. Upon opening the top I found that one or both of the inlet valves were leaking into the motor control board area. I opened the brown plastic casing to inspect the electronic board and I could not see any visible damage. It was obvious with the heavy mineral deposits that the leak was long term. The diagnostic mode code was 11111000. Both inlet valves checked at 600 ohms. Is there a way to check the motor control board? I am a widow on disability and need to make sure before I replace a part that it's absolutely necessary.
ok so at 2000k OM i am only getting around 500 reading. do i need to replace it? or is that a normal reading?
I have no continuity but when I tested the incoming power while the washer machine had power I was not get 120v on 32v would I also have another electrical issue?
thanks
If you don't own a multimeter how else can you check it out? Thanks
My coil getting 4.8k ohm and inlet voktage is 130v , now is it ok
There is no 120V at the fill solenoids for my Duet whirlpool front loader and the motherboard is brand new. What sends the 120V to the solenoids?
is 115v enough for the valve
The thermistor (part with the two prongs sticking out) senses the water temp and allows it to be controlled automatically. If you can’t get water out on any of the settings you need to see if you are getting power to the coil. If you have power to the coil and water is on, the valve is bad.
my washer fills fine on wash cycle but only fills about one third of the way on the rinse cycle . are there 2 different fill valves? i have a 2015 GE washing machine
Thank you...You don't know how much help this is...I am in North Borneo and without technical help...I try to repair what I can myself...I replaced the washing machine drum and lasted over a year now gone dead...The company said test the water supply valve...Had no idea how to till now...
Laurence Peverill You're welcome. We're glad our repair help content has been helpful to you!
***** It was the control board that burnt out. This video helped me to prove to the company that it was not the inlet valve. They sent me a new board and it works again...Thanks.
Laurence Peverill Awesome!
Hi, my issue is that when the load is complete and the washer turns off, water still drains into the tub. You can actually see water filling the tub. When you shut the water off it stops filling.
Question, I have a code 49. I checked continuity of both valves-good. Replaced inlet value. Continuity good, same error. Water supply good. I noticed a terminal with 5 purple wires unplugged, what are these for? Controller 421438USP. P7CPE.
ANY SUGGESTIONS?
ok, thanks for being so Quick Too!
1. the prongs on the end of that theromoster, (that round thing with 2 prongs sticking out) - I dont see at all where those prongs would go into! DO they EVEN GO Into Anything? If so,. any chance you have a picture or details of where/.what they plug into b/c i see nothing even close to it!
and 2.
Im trying to close everything up now - but still have the plastic inlet-valve casing.. How does it go back on? cant seem to figure out how to place it on again. lame
My wash machine turns on and let's me set the type of wash. But after like 30 seconds after pushing start the minute illumination flashes and doesn't fill.
If no power is getting to the valve you will need to trace the power back and see where you are losing it, (pressure switch, timer etc.) A valve coil can still show continuity and not let water thru. The thermistor is usually a high resistance so it will not show on a meter unless you use the higher settings.
I have a whirlpool duet washer with brand new motherboard but no power for solenoids out of the motherboard. The PSI switch is good. Where is the timer you are talking about here located
😍thanks for sharing
You're welcome!
We are always happy to help. If you would like to give us a review on Google, we would much appreciate it: g.page/r/CcVUrahZNozMEBM/review
We hope that you have a great day!
Hi mate, i have a problem. I have a front loading zanussi fls-571c thats
running on a manual timer control. The problem is it spins, it rinses.
But it doesn't wash. After filling up water, the water stops and the
timer clicks but no washing starts and no voltage on the capacitor
either that starts the motor but voltage present during rinse and spin
about 400V plus. After the rinse or spin completes, the capacitor
voltage drops to zero instantly. Could that be a capacitor fault? Or
something else? Please help.
Thanks my meter is set at 200 ohm but nether side reads anything. Even on the new one it does the same o on hot & cold sides. Confused?
Jim Nichols 200 might be too high. Try the single digits or the lowest setting. Both the old valve and brand new one are not going to have 4 open coils. Do you get zero when you touch your leads together? If not you likely have a bad lead or a problem with the meter.
Sir one problem is in LG TOP LOAD washing machine inlet valve have continous supply when machine main supply on means water continue on so if i checked at valve continous supply shown so pls suggest solution is it possible triac is on when main supply on
Hi! Thank you for your video. I set my digital multimeter in continuity and It showed no continuity. After, I set the multimeter in resistance and I got 3.7K ohms in both, the sigle and the double solenoides. My solenide is Fisher and paykel Brand. (VALVE INLET COLD DOUBLE - 790418 - Fisher & Paykel). Can this resistance value be a open circuit? showing that the solenoides are faulty? Thank u in advance
3.7K ohms sounds like good solenoid coils, not open for continuity.
RepairClinic.com I also got no continuity on my multimeter but 3.7k ohms resistance on the solenoids. So I guess my water pressure inlet valve is ok .?
Thanks
The pressure switch is good. The technician does not know what's wrong. The fill valves will not open to let water in if the fill valve solenoids do not get the 120V to operate
Very useful video. Thanks.
Mine is this model and it leaks at the dual valve & drips at the right knob (inside). How do fix for the dripping problem?
Thanks again.
You are Not In VN to repair a $25 item !!!!!!
@@khangchiennguyen4314 I'm in Canada. Finally, I had the piece changeda and it works. Thanks
I have a GE front loader washer & have no water. I tested the like the video. But I have o on my meter. The company said that that it doesn't show anything on the meter? The new one has nothing on the meter also? can you help.
Jim Nichols You must set your meter to Ohms when conducting this test. When you touch the leads together you should get zero ohms and when the lead are apart most meters read OL (open line). Normally, when testing issues arise people does have the meter set to the correct setting or the ohm range they selected is too high. Most coils will read between 5-500 ohms. The main thing is you get a resistance and not an OL.
I replaced my actuator, still doesn't work. Sensing does not engage to wash cycle when I start my load. Lid lock will lock and then it just flashes.
hello, I watched that video and Im trying to test the water valve. I have a whirlpool cabrio wtw5500wx1. well, i changed the drain pump and the belt, because let the clothes wet. Well, i dont know what can be. By the way, while the washer starts i saw that water coming from the bottom, i dont know if i need to replace the shift actuator or the both valve. When I tested the valve with a digital milimeter show me 1.01. what it is means? was i little crazy when in the wash cycle im still hearing water coming inside the basket. Please I need help, by the way you have useful videos that helped to install the two parts that i mentioned.
+guerreradecristo777 Each solenoid coil should measure between 5-500 ohms resistance. The wiring diagram will give the specific ohm values, but in general as long as the coil has a resistance and not shorted open then it is likely still good. The problem though is valves can fail mechanically too so the test is not always conclusive.
Sir napalitan ko na yun solenoid valve ng washing machine ko pero wala pa rin entry ng tubig. Ano possible problem pa kaya?
I just finished a load of laundry and then when I went to do another I pulled the start knob, water came out for like a sec and then stopped. I can't get anything now. Is this most likely the issue? What else could it be?
My Whirlpool Imperial Series top load washer is dispensing hot water when it is not supposed to. It does it when it is in agitate mode and when it is set on cold water. Does this sound like the water inlet valve?
We recommend that you verify the water hoses are connected to the correct hot and cold fittings on the washer first. They should be labeled on the back. If you set the water temp to hot and you get cold water, the hoses will most likely need to be reversed. If they are on correctly, the wiring may have been mistakenly reversed. Was it repaired recently? Another possibility is that the temperature switch may be bad.
Hello there, the water inlet in my LG top load washing machine pumped little to no water when turned on, so I removed the inlet valve assembly, cleaned it, and put it back in its place exactly the same way it was. But after this, it started pumping so much water through the water inlet/detergent drawer even when the machine is turned off. What might have gone wrong? Thank you for any help!
You aren't supposed to clean them out just replace.
sometimes the connection loose just squeeze connectors fixed
I successfully repaired the valve by cleaning it with some anti scaling removal liquid and it works without an issue. If its still buzzing you do not need to replace the whole valve. Just open the screws and clean it and try.
Thanks for commenting. Might be OK but keep in mind what we say at the 2:40 mark of the video. When we say part failure that can be flooding you home.
Two times water valves burned what's reason?
I checked the valves on a machine that had 'no-hot-fill error' and all of them got continuity around 1K ohms but I went ahead and replaced the 'Inlet Valve Assembly' and the machine was back in service. After that, upon the dis-assembly of the old valve, I found out that the rubber diaphragm in the hot-water inlet valve is teared. So, I've learned, although the valves are 'electrically sound', they can be 'mechanically faulty.
the problem here i have right now its the voltage was dessapear from the connector goes to the cold .. i test the intlet alone its ok, i check the hose its ok. the behaviour its fill slow in cold i connect the multineter and i see whenhit start the voltage 125 only was one second then dessapear and if you pt the hot the 125 are steady if put hot and cold the voltage goes on and off. i check this connecting only the multimeter lead to washer cables goes in the inlet valve. and the washer its a westi g house i can find anywhere any service manual. its wwac14m3hekw
Thank you for the video. I followed the instructions and my Fluke T5-600 electrical tester indicated that the solenoids for the hot water valve had a reading of 897. For the cold water valve the reading was 890. These were within the acceptable range indicated in the video, so I concluded that the valve did not have an electrical failure. However, when I was discussing this with the friend who had given me the Fluke T5-600, he asked if the tester made a noise when I ran the tests. I informed him that it did not, and he said that if the tester didn't make a beeping noise then I did not have continuity and did, in fact, have a faulty valve.
Is it true that the ohm readings must be accompanied by a beep or noise of some sort on the test instrument in order to be accurate?
I read 1300Ohms but when I switch to the other setting I do not hear a beep either. Did you ever figure out if it should beep or not?
@@Matt-po7mg Nah. Sorry. That was a long time ago. I'd already forgotten about it.
Electrical engineer here. Beeps not needed for an ohmmeter to read ohms value accurately . 890 sounds fine for a good coil.
There is usually a separate audible continuity setting on the meter that will beep when low resistance is detected. This mode is used mostly when hunting for short circuits, and the exact value doesn't matter to the user.
@@jeffweber8244 Thanks! I'll try to remember that (but will probably forget) for future reference. Not too long after my original post, I threw in the (dirty) towel and just got a new washing machine. ;-)
My LG washer makes a noise while it is spraying water while using. Is the Inlet the problem?
It's normal
What if the valve has 3100 ohms of resistance?
Mine shows 27 ohm. Is it low?
My front load Bosch washer has a slow water leak into the wash drum when not in use. In 2 or 3 days, it has maybe a cup of water in it. However, when we unplug the machine, it doesn't appear to be leaking at all. Could this still be a water inlet valve failure? Why would it fail when turned off, but not when unplugged?
+Donna McRee That does not make much sense. The inlet valve needs 120 volts to open. The washer might leave more water in than you think to reduce the risk of seals drying out.
Hey … I changed the inlet valve and the Pcb…. My probelms is the machine just stops don’t do anything !!! Please help
how can you tell if it's electric? and what about an old hotpoint washer that fills slowly?
+Dee Dee It will have a power cord if it is electric. Most slow fill problems are a result of a restricted water inlet valve.
Mine has another problem, it fills water for a couple second and push the water immediately after that away..whats the problem?
Came here to confirm coil value I was reading matched others. I was recently shipped an inlet valve with a failed coil on cold side. Beware of cheap knockoff parts. Replacing with a USA-made OEM part for a few bucks more.
OEM parts are built to last with rigorous industry standards and testing. All the parts we sell are OEM parts, which you can find here: RepairClinic.com
I’ve got good pressure and 1.002kohms with 24v coming to to inlet valves when on. Washer makes a humming noise when calling for water but no water. 🤷🏽♂️
Apparently I powered everything down checked and when I turned on cold it ran and now is giving hot and cold on demand. What could cause intermittent issue like that?
Hi, Maytag Performa Washer sometimes drains while filling. My wife says resetting water level sometimes fixes problem. Where do I start?
mikeokizichy The main drive motor has to be running in order to operate the drain pump on the Performa's. If you don't here the motor running then water is likely siphoning out. This occurs if you sealed the drain hose to the stand pipe.
***** I've made no changes. Is this something that occurs on it's own? We do have low water pressure which sometimes drops really low due to a public works project which damaged some pipes. It should be fixed by the end of the month.
mikeokizichy The drain hose sometime gets pushed too far down the pipe which seals it. Low water pressure could allow water to enter the washer, but siphoning is odd.
***** Update, they've repaired the water main & pressure is back up with no more washer problem. Coincidence?
mikeokizichy Probably not a coincidence, thank you for sharing.
My machine automatically fills the tub with water when it is turned on, and there is no way to stop it except to turn the machine off or to close the water line. I suppose it would overflow if i left it on long enough, but i don't want to find out. Does this sound like a water inlet valve problem?
I tested it electrically (as instructed in the video) with a tone and it had no tone, so i figured it failed electrically. But since the water only flows when the machine is turned on, that didn't make sense to me. so i reinstalled into the machine, plugged it in and turned it on. There's a rattling sound accompanying a vibration in the valve when the power comes on, so does that mean it's a mechanical failure? I mean it's a valve so it should just open or close, but it seems like it's spinning around and around inside. Or maybe it's an electrical problem in the panel?
“If no power is getting to the valve you will need to trace the power back and see where you are losing it, (pressure switch, timer etc.)” what other things should I be checking for?? My inlet valves are “good” but the hot water one is not dispensing. The cold water works fine. I don’t know why only one of them works but the other doesn’t
I have a whirlpool duet washer with brand new motherboard but no power for solenoids out of the motherboard. Where is the timer you are talking about here located
my problem is draining while filing? and machine cant start cause it cant load water to wash. i have samsung WA80V4 fully automatic diamond drum . can someone help me how to fix this.
+JZB Venus This could be caused by pushing the drain hose too far down the stand pipe and now the washer is siphoning the water out.
i have no connectivity on both inlets
I don't have a meter, any way I can test this without one?
+jasona555 You can inspect it for clogs, but the only way to test it safely is with a meter.
You check without meter used test lamp and continuity tester any one used for check inlet water valves coil
I'm confused, I thought if the valve has infinite resistance then the valve has failed. In this case shouldn't the meter needle peg out to it's highest setting, rather than not moving which would indicate zero resistance?
Look at the scale on meter closely. Needle moving to the right indicates LESS resistance. So non-moving needle is infinite, aka open-circuit.
I have replaced my cold/hot inlet valve in my machine (fisher and Paykel mw512) as soon as I turn power on it just beeps and has lights 3,4 and 8 which I was told is inlet valve problem, I replaced valve but still beeping the same any help would be much appreciated
We recommend that you verify the wires to the valve are not broken. Since you already replaced the valve and got the same problem, it is most likely not the valve. If the wires to the valve are ok, you may have a bad control board.
The valve come with replacement wires so I don't think that could be it, is a fault board a technician job or something I could have a crack at myself?
***** Why haven't you replied to Mr. Rowbotham's question? It's rude to have replied to his first inquiry and then seemingly ignore his second one.
Barry Rowbotham Certainly could be a main control problem but the only way to know for sure would be to do some electrical testing with the wiring diagram from inside the washer and a multimeter.
my washer jus clicks like it's trying to fill up but it can't idk what's going on
stephanie fisher nbj
All three of the valves on my Samsung front loader did NOTHING. All three failed simultaneously? BS.
same problem
I don't understand why in 2:38 he says that there are a risk of "heart failure" if you try to repair the valve... I'm not a native english speaker, so sorry if it is a misunderstanding. Thanks in advance!
+Nazaret García He said "PART" failure, not "Heart" Failure. Fortunately we are only dealing with a Washer here and not the valves on a human heart! :)
+Sean Blair Thanks!! :) I think about "part failure" but then I turn captions on and they put "Heart Failure"... mind blown! Haha. Thanks again!
But the subtitles says "heart failure"
You may just get Part failure if you try repairing it yourself 😝
"Trying to clean out an old valve is not recommended due to the risk of part failure after repair". Yeah, more like "Trying to clean out an old valve is not recommended due to it working in most cases and we lose money on parts".
In all the time it takes to do this, just spend the 37 bucks for a new inlet valve, take 20 minutes to install it, and call it a day.
It's most likely a water inlet valve failure since everything made in China lasts 2 years at most. Our washer never worked right from day one, taking 3 hours to do a 1-hour cycle.
Just run it on the quick 15minute cycle and then it will take an hour.
What is the purpose of this video...!!
When u are saying at the end that repair is not recommended..
Its very simple to take apart the valve and clean it. If the solenoid is working then it.'s 99% chance the seals are dirty and or the inner screen is blocked. I have done this many times on almost all washer brands and never had any part fail. If you take it apart and find broken pieces then the plastic failed not the Solenoid.
@@repairclinic that's why you test the solenoids. If the solenoids are bad yeah replace the entire valve. But opening the valve to clean out two screens if they're clogged it's very straightforward. And I would say if you don't know how to disassemble the valve or test to solenoid you shouldn't be taking apart the washing machine in the first place. And if what you're saying is true that can happen at any time if the valve gets stuck open without even opening up the valve so what's your point.
@@repairclinic Again no difference if they fail without taken them apart. I have never had one fail. Again no difference if your hot water tank fails and floods the house or a toilet line fails. What your point.
dude take this video down worthless we know thisstuff already
I didn't know it. I am so glad I found this video.
Who’s “we?” You gotta mouse in ya pocket?
I didn’t know this so I’m sending you big thanks.
Super usefull and informative video thank you , helpfull & usefull , done subscribe you 👍😊😉