Volvo 240: Struts, timing belt, oil leaks, motor mounts, etc!
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- Опубліковано 8 тра 2021
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It was supposed to be a quick job... But I managed to take on all the tasks and complete them, getting this 240 back on the road in better shape than it rolled in.
Volvo 240s are easy to work on, but they NEED work. That's the trouble with owning one in 2021. Otherwise you pay premium. She paid premium and we were still lied to about some of the things it needs, but we were prepared 🤠 🤙
To know what to look for, check out the Volvo 240 buyer's guide: • The Volvo 240 Buyer's ...
In total I changed:
the struts
strut mounts
thermostat
water pump
front main seal
intermediate shaft seal
camshaft seal (twice)
camshaft silencers
oil plug on the back of head/valve cover
valve cover gasket
alternator
alternator wiring repair
motor mounts
cleaned flame trap
replaced one cluster bulb
timing belt and tensioner pulley
Next video I change the transmission pan gasket and filter. Link soon.
Pro tip: If someone is doing work for you, feed them. 👍
🚗 See more of this car here in "Shopping for a Volvo 240"
• Shopping for a Volvo 240
🎥 All my previous 240 Wagon videos in one playlist:
• 🇸🇪 Volvo 240 Wagon Res...
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#VolvoRescue #DavidBello #Volvo240 - Авто та транспорт
I have never removed strut tubes to replace struts, and I only use hand tools. I gave-up replacing the left motor mount, as the right one holds it all together. I routinely rewire the ALT feeder and oil sender wires along the right inner fender from the firewall block, something Volvo should have done.
Best built car... Built with rare integrity. All "problems" are that they are 30 years old.
-22 Year Full-Time 240 Tech
Always go back to the things you touched first. A lesson I have to relearn time and time again
I wish I still hav my 1983 240 turbo wagon. Great car😎
Commenting for viewer engagement
Yes! 240 episode!
Hey David, may I give You an advice., all 240 engines haven't hydrauliklifters, you have to ajust vavelclearens with the shims, you can get it in diffrent thicknesses. Sorry for my bad english. Greetings from Germany
Michael
I've read multiple times about problems with the harness going across under the pulleys. They can also short out. First time I've actually seen a pic of the damage. It does all look safe clamped up there but there is obviously something that can pull it around and damage it. Don't be too mad about replacing parts before you find the real problem, we all do it now and again. A good video with lots of useful info.
Good show.
Around 1995 I did the same maintenance overhaul on my red 240/1988 + the engine came out and was disassembled.
The engine needed new bearing shells on the crankshaft and, most important, new oil rings on the pistons, - of cause the other piston rings was changed too.
The new oil rings reduced the oil consumption from 1 liter / 1000km to ZERO :-).
The original oil rings were a problem on the 230K engine, - maybe yours too.....
They became filled with carbon, thus did not drain the oil from the cylinder wall to the inside of the piston.
/JD
After much checking , early on, I have never adjusted the valve shims on a 240. They run so clean that valves have never been an issue. And they always pass the emissions test. Failure to change the oil on time(3000m) is where the block and head have slight troubles.
-22 Year Full-Time 240 Tech
RE: Cam seal - We used to pack the inside of the seal with grease, and tap it in with assembly lube on the camshaft. Sometimes a light coating of aviation Permatex (non-hardening) on the outer diameter of the seal and wiping off resisdual once the seal is fully seated.
Yes the permeated aviation glue really helps. I had a front main seal pop out, soak the timing belt and break while driving. Nothing dramatic, but inconvenient to fix in the dark.
Damn you a good worker.
Id love to change my cam to a VX cam. Awesome videos
YAY more David Bello 240 content!!! 💕💕
🤗
David,
Admire your dedication and support to your friends and Volvo community. Valve noise and slight carbon formation on cam shaft base surface indicate the need to adjust the valve lash by shim.
@23:05 The local Volvo shop has a habit of rerouting the alternator wires along the passenger side lighting circuit and jumping underneath the coolant tank to the alternator. You will need to add some wire since the originals aren't quite long enough.
I do like this as a solution of keeping the wires away from a leaking front main seal or oil pan gasket, especially on a pre '88 car with the crumbling insulation issue.
@23:30 The warning light bulbs can be unsoldered from the bases but it is a pain. On mine, I cut the wire with a small set of flush wire cutters and soldered in some T5 LEDs.
Cheers from Oklahoma!
Love your content and your dedication to these vehicles. Truly a superb Volvo channel. I took lots of notes during your Volvo 240 buyers guide video that was so helpful. I know that if I ever get one, I would be banging on your doorstep to work on it if you still do side jobs for people.
Very interesting video and thank you for talking us through. The Redblock is such an appealing engine.
I just did all this on mine in January and I messed up the front seal in the exact same way. Good times.
she asked you for a bit more tlc because she knew you'd do her good. good job by the way.
So pleased you kept at it. I can imagine how frustrating.
Failure is not an option
I hope you got more than a pizza. You are a good friend, Mr. Bello.
i realize it is pretty off topic but do anyone know of a good place to stream new series online ?
@Malakai Raymond I would suggest FlixZone. Just search on google for it :)
Yeah man! Way to keep that wagon rolling! I'm seeing so few in my neck of the woods.
Nice work😎
A lot of work!
My rear cam plug came out on the expressway. Very smoky ride home. Bought that retainer plate from IPD.
You might wanna check your PCV system then, excess pressure from a clogged breather box might have caused that
David being the Volvo guru you are you have to know about the legendary 3rd motor mount Volvo’s were supposed to come with. A ratchet strap! Run a strap from the whole on the drivers side strut tower and wrap the other part around intake plenum #3 and #4. Literally the sturdiest motor you can ever get. Doesn’t look OEM but handles better than OEM.😂 that or go spend $130 on an actual 3rd motor mount from stsmachining.
Oh yes I have seen this on a few cars. I imagine the whole point of the soft mounts was to easily break the engine off and send it under the tunnel in case of wall (the really big sort sort volvo doesn’t go *through*). Safety feature aside, I wonder about the negative effects of solid mounts in the mechanics of the drivetrain, though?
Yes Mr Bello, you are a trouper!! bravo ; )
Good Job David
Thanks Kim 🙇♂️
Don't forget to re-adjust the tensioner after 1,000km as the belt stretches a little and needs tension put back on it
This is how I will spend my holidays. A great job, and a lot of useful information! Thanks and greetings from Italy!
At 22:50 you can see that the crank shaft position sensor is missing insulation. Not replacing it when the insulation crumbles can cause a no start or stall condition (happened to me).
It looks like the crank position sensor behind the head needs replacing, the insulation is all cracking and will eventually result in a no start.
NICE! This afternoon I'll finish dropping the BW35 from my 75 164.........(front seal leaks)
Kinda looks like my 91 240 wagon, the paint is much nicer on this one though. I finally got it mostly fixed last year, replaced the transmission with a tremec t5, replaced the engine after oil pump failure, installed a VX camshaft, ipd adjustable timing gear and a whole new exhaust from the down pipe back, put the Ipd stainless steel sport exhaust on the back end. Next up is the seats, odometer, tach and oil pressure gauge, and maybe a stereo and speakers. Oh yeah, also the driver's side door needs to be fixed as well...
yeah i install electrical fans on front of the radiator on the 740 and 240 i got as it clears up tome space and the fan shroud and clutch fan is not in the way if you need to work under the hood
#lifehacks
@@DavidBello more a convenience hack ;)
You have become a real Good Mechanik and I also dig your Video Produktion Style. That 240 and Sarah I could Not Tell who I‘d prefere..... Probably Sarah yeah Sarah 😂
Always check the simplest and obvious first.
Check your crankcase ventilation! May be clogged very common and blows seals and gasket’s like on this one ! Loosen the oil filler caps and check for blow buy
Awesome as always David. Love how you keep them going! Now just why has my 940 refusing to cold start :-(
There is a coolant temperature sensor that tells the computer if it’s very cold and to adjust by adding more fuel. It’s under the intake manifold (2 prong switch as I recall) so take an ohm reading of it or just replace.
@@DavidBello awesome! I’ll give that a go. I guess that figures, it’s quite warm today and she ran nicely after a few cranks. Love your videos, especially enjoying your 164 adventures. Very nostalgic re twin strombergs and straight 6s. I have 2l triumph from 68 rusting away under a cover.
Cold start valve?
Remind me! What years did Volvo remove the chemicals in wire harness that held the insulation together and the harness exposed to atmosphere would lose all insulation and cause 🔥?
Sachs is OEM for p2 struts. Not sure about for the 200 series though.
Very appreciative of all your content. Got my first volvo ('88 245) 2 months ago and it's been a real rabbit whole trying to get up to snuff for long trip this summer. Did the rear trailing arm lower bushings, exhaust leak at header pipe ( it's better but still little leak, flushing cooking system, new thermostat, h20 pump, odo gear, dialing in the idle. Recently sprung a leak in the steering rack :( so that hurts. Gunna have to do tie rods, and now after this video maybe struts, because talking this thing doen the dirt road I live on is a wild wild ride. Do you have any recommendation or a general list of all the things one should go through when first getting a 240? Thanks for inspiration
The '88 240 Volvo is the best. They fixed the faulty wires for the engine harness, and before they put in the faulty LH Bosch system found in an '89.
-22 year full-time 240 tech
@ the LH 2.2 is better than the 2.4 you say? Also, as a 240 tech, what do you recommend I go over as part of tuning up this car? Though I guess it just keeps presenting the issues...
Where did you jack up the engine to do the mounts?
Do you like those aluminum jack stands? I was looking at them today at harbor freight.
No, they don’t fit the lift points on older cars well. You want the skinny metal craftsman ones
Do you fix and sell any of them
How much would anupgraded cam cost
Hi there, does it make sense to replace the seals without cleaning/replacing the PCV system? Thanks!
No, the pcv will cause leaks
@@jacobfleming565 Thanks!
Hello, what did u do with the break lines?
For the strut change? I removed them and reinstalled, then bled the system.
Ok, tks, will do the same,
80's wiring harnesses....crispy corroded critters...getting that much done, then redoing, then other fixes...ouch. .....but ending in success.
I Think ;-) ;-)
1st comment? Hehe
Whatcha gonna write?
why you work in secret
Uhm... it seems that you had a lot of "fun". But, sigh, what does a man not want to do for a beautiful girl like that?!