Stumbled across this 2 year old video. I'm working on this same kit now and note that the kit is pretty nice EXCEPT for the rotten canopy. What were they thinking? I tried to polish mine to make it more clear but only made it worse. I ended up buying an aftermarket (Squadron) vacuum formed canopy which is miles (kilometers) ahead of the one proved by Revell. Liked the part about opening up the main gear wheel wells. I wondered why all that very nice detail was hidden under the closed wells. Your video was great. Thank you.
I just got my second copy of this kit. I lost the canopy on my Airfix version. Only to learn from you that the canopy on this one sucks!. But I do have an extra Airfix ME 190 kit, which I will use to replace the one from Revell. Nice job. I will follow some of your techniques.
@The WaggishAmerican - nice work FER CRISSAKES ITS PRONOUNCED "rev-elle" as in "rev the engine and "what the 'ell" in a Cockney accent and the accent is on the second syllable. "Rev - ELLE". I learned this in 1960 an hunnert years before you were born. Aloha.
@@kevinnazario1015 You can really see it in pictures of that one 262 that america got a hold of that was still in natural metal bar a black underbelly. Very visible putty on the fuselage joints.
This is really a video with a workflow and very nice work! Many of the boys are showing their face and debate instead of showing the model. They have a very interesting video where they see work - and that's very good. We fancy !!! and thank you.
Very nice job. Good kit, but as you say, the canopy is a let-down. I've seen this in a couple of copies of the kit, and it looks to me like the transparency sprue was ejected from the mould too soon. The problem doesn't seem to affect the 2-seater canopy though.
I've built a couple of these many years apart. On the first one the canopy was good, on the second very bad. I assume this is caused by mould wear. Bad form for Revell not to fix it.
@@TheWaggishAmerican i would google for a set of drawings, use the b/w option under images. I feel that it is also true of the B. A good front view pic will show it too. Maybe try to view museum birds, also.
generally, practice on something else before you commit to the model. When trying a new scheme I like to paint a few inches of an old wing or even just some styrene card with the same process I follow on the part of the plane that needs the special work done, and practice on that first. Specifically for my approach to mottling, I've found a few things to produce good results as I hope you can see in my other videos which also feature this finish. They are as follows: 1) Get as close as possible To keep the dots small and for reasons I'll mention later, I usually take the protective cap off my airbrush and paint with an exposed needle, with the needles a few mm away from the surface. 2) low pressure - the vast majority of my painting that isn't a matte coat or something like alclad I am spraying at around 16-20psi. When I do mottling it's generally closer to 8-12psi. 3) very thin paint - typical paint for me is the typical "milk consistency". Ratios will change depending on what paint you are using, but for example I usually paint with tamiya at between a 50:50 and 60:40 thinner:paint ratio, but will go as high as 75:25 for mottling. Exact ratio is something you will get a feel for. As long as you are stabilized, building up thin layers is your friend. I usually plan to 'sketch' the pattern on one pass and then come in again to 'darken' it. 4) stabilize yourself I treat mottling like I do figure painting. I want as many parts of me physically touching the edge of the bench as possible. I keep my elbows sucked against my chest, resting my entire upper body against my arms which are in turn pressed against the edge of my table. I hold the model in hand, and then rest fleshy part of my hand against the table top. When the shape of the subject allows, I'll try to keep the knuckles of my airbrush hand pinky against either the model or the table. 4.5) This is somewhat related to stability, but you have to really make sure you are actioning your airbrush properly. If your airbrush has a physical way to restrict how far back you can pull I'd recommend setting it to very little travel if you are not confident in your practice. Then you need to be REALLY mindful about ONLY pulling back on the trigger AFTER you depress it. 'Spitting' is never good but it is especially damaging and noticeable when done close up when mottling. 5) keep the tip clean This is a bit more relevant to acrylic paints like vallejo but if I'm painting a large subject (like a 1/72 FW200) with tamiya I'll do this as well. Have a sponge wetted with whatever cleans the paint your are useing, and occasionally 'stab' the sponge lightly with the tip of your brush (not dish sponges, light stuff like painting / art sponges). Vallejo especially is really bad about this, and this will kill your mottle like nothing else to have paint dry on the tip. besides an ability to get really close and see what you are doing, this the other big advantage of painting with the cap off. Here also, if you have to stop painting for a few minutes or more, be sure to do a short burst off of your model when you start up again just in case - especially with the thinner paint - that some hasn't pooled down the needle in the downtime and causing a spit. Hope that helps! Ultimately though it's something you have to do to learn
Really nice result. I like the restraint shown in weathering. As regards the sticky putty used for masking (in the UK it is usually called Blue Tack) can you use it again once it has been painted?
yes. I usually just work it around in my hand a few times, and the putty tends to absorb it. Once it seems to have reached a certain "saturation" after a number of models I use it exclusively to hold on to parts, and once it gets to be way too sticky it's time to through it out. So they are not one time uses, but they don't last forever. I get a new egg of two of silly putty once every year or so. I am trying to switch to bluetac though. Newer silly putty seems to have a lot more oil in it, and I have already ruined one paintjob with it.
Mix in a light grey. Im not certain about that specific color, but in general thats how youd go about it. Have a piece of cardboard or scrap plastic and just mix until you like the outcome.
I will never get this way of preshading. What is the point of painting whole model with grey primer, then whole model with black paint, and then adding light grey to 90% of model surface? Just paint it grey primer, then use black paint to apply thin lines on the panel lines, and boom - job done with 1 layer of paint(primer + really thin panel shades) instead of 3 layers (primer, black, and 90% surface covered in light grey). :)
Well, I was doing it wrong here. This technique doesn't really work on 1/72 aircraft anyway. In 48th scale and above, (and when done correctly), this technique makes it much easier to create a discolored surface. Ideal, you want to "Marble" the surface after the black, build up a very splotchy layer of different opacity's of lighter color, and leave the panel lines mostly untouched. In larger scales, it works pretty well. Unless you are doing a huge bomber of some kind, though, it's mostly a waste in this scale.
Rigging looks a bit thick, I’ve noticed that other modellers work over a dark background, really makes the colours pop,overall I enjoyed your build...😎
I've considered doing a dark background before, but with my current setup all it really does is cause a lot of glare problems from my lights. Additionally, probably worst, I film on an iPhone 5- not the greatest camera setup in the world. My phone cannot handle the dynamic range in a way that accurately depicts the colors, doesn't create bizarre shadows, and doesn't leave video grainy or washed out. Pictures I sometimes take on a DSLR which is why you get a couple dark background shots that look okay in the end-of video slideshow.
For me it was the worst model i ever finished, i forgot to add weight to the front but luckily i managed to seal those ejection ports at front before gluing it all together so i drilled tiny hole between wheels and injected in some hot wax with syringe while nose down. Biggest Bs i ever did with model
I'm sorry if I gave you a thumbs down because although the kit looks great it's the presentation doing it in timelapse photography and no narration the reason for the thumbs down. I'm very new at this and I'm very scared to do anything wrong which is the reason I need narration and no timelapse photography. Sincerely Allan
If you watch it on a Computer, you can select the speed of the video using the settings symbol next to the Subtitles icon. You can speed it up to 2 x speed and slow it down to 0.25 x speed. Using this for the parts that you are interested in will slow it down to the point that you can watch it at near normal speed. I think it was a little unfair to give this guy a thumbs down for the reason that you gave, but it's your choice I suppose. Have fun with your modelling and best of luck to you. Joe
I'm not totally sure what you mean by no narration... I gave information at the start of a noteworthy segment like I usually do. For the time being, all of my video's are timelapse. I have been looking into getting a new camera, however, and if I do I'll take your suggestion into account and try a more 'live' build series on a kit. Until then, though, if you are looking for non-timelapse, then this channel probably isn't for you. Thanks for the Feedback! Waggish
To add to what Joe is saying- when I edit these video's, I speed it up to 4x speed, so setting your speed to .25 would screw up the audio, but you would be able to see it in exactly real time.
This is my new favorite model building channel
Stumbled across this 2 year old video. I'm working on this same kit now and note that the kit is pretty nice EXCEPT for the rotten canopy. What were they thinking? I tried to polish mine to make it more clear but only made it worse. I ended up buying an aftermarket (Squadron) vacuum formed canopy which is miles (kilometers) ahead of the one proved by Revell. Liked the part about opening up the main gear wheel wells. I wondered why all that very nice detail was hidden under the closed wells. Your video was great. Thank you.
That is a stunning 262 build and an excellent video. I love how you presented it.
I just got my second copy of this kit. I lost the canopy on my Airfix version. Only to learn from you that the canopy on this one sucks!. But I do have an extra Airfix ME 190 kit, which I will use to replace the one from Revell. Nice job. I will follow some of your techniques.
Superb Build! Great Presentation! Inspired!
Love the way you did the panel lines
@The WaggishAmerican - nice work FER CRISSAKES ITS PRONOUNCED "rev-elle" as in "rev the engine and "what the 'ell" in a Cockney accent and the accent is on the second syllable. "Rev - ELLE". I learned this in 1960 an hunnert years before you were born. Aloha.
Yet again you have a produced a great build mate, well done sir.
Thanks!
On the real 262, they actually taped and puttied the fuselage joints between the panel lines!
That's cool
what the fuck
I have never seen that on me 262's. But i have on very late Me 109's Gs and Ks.
@@kevinnazario1015 You can really see it in pictures of that one 262 that america got a hold of that was still in natural metal bar a black underbelly. Very visible putty on the fuselage joints.
You’ve come a long way my friend, 10/10!
Thanks dude!
This is really a video with a workflow and very nice work! Many of the boys are showing their face and debate instead of showing the model. They have a very interesting video where they see work - and that's very good. We fancy !!! and thank you.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Very nice job. Good kit, but as you say, the canopy is a let-down. I've seen this in a couple of copies of the kit, and it looks to me like the transparency sprue was ejected from the mould too soon. The problem doesn't seem to affect the 2-seater canopy though.
I've built a couple of these many years apart. On the first one the canopy was good, on the second very bad. I assume this is caused by mould wear. Bad form for Revell not to fix it.
This kit is still better than the airfix mould apart from the canopy , I am going to attempt diy canopy on mine. thanks for the build.
Great video and a really great model of the ME262, well done mate.
Have fun with your next project,
Joe
Thanks Joe!
Each main landing gear is canted inward by six degrees, but the wheels are perpendicular to the ground. Looks neat on a 262, when properly done!
Interesting- do you know if the 262B/U had that same arrangement? If so, I'll have to be sure to set it like that in my 32nd scale one.
@@TheWaggishAmerican i would google for a set of drawings, use the b/w option under images. I feel that it is also true of the B. A good front view pic will show it too. Maybe try to view museum birds, also.
Beautiful work! So I’m building one currently, but idk how to nail the spotting on the body just how you did. Any tips?
generally, practice on something else before you commit to the model. When trying a new scheme I like to paint a few inches of an old wing or even just some styrene card with the same process I follow on the part of the plane that needs the special work done, and practice on that first.
Specifically for my approach to mottling, I've found a few things to produce good results as I hope you can see in my other videos which also feature this finish. They are as follows:
1) Get as close as possible
To keep the dots small and for reasons I'll mention later, I usually take the protective cap off my airbrush and paint with an exposed needle, with the needles a few mm away from the surface.
2) low pressure
- the vast majority of my painting that isn't a matte coat or something like alclad I am spraying at around 16-20psi. When I do mottling it's generally closer to 8-12psi.
3) very thin paint
- typical paint for me is the typical "milk consistency". Ratios will change depending on what paint you are using, but for example I usually paint with tamiya at between a 50:50 and 60:40 thinner:paint ratio, but will go as high as 75:25 for mottling. Exact ratio is something you will get a feel for.
As long as you are stabilized, building up thin layers is your friend. I usually plan to 'sketch' the pattern on one pass and then come in again to 'darken' it.
4) stabilize yourself
I treat mottling like I do figure painting. I want as many parts of me physically touching the edge of the bench as possible. I keep my elbows sucked against my chest, resting my entire upper body against my arms which are in turn pressed against the edge of my table. I hold the model in hand, and then rest fleshy part of my hand against the table top. When the shape of the subject allows, I'll try to keep the knuckles of my airbrush hand pinky against either the model or the table.
4.5)
This is somewhat related to stability, but you have to really make sure you are actioning your airbrush properly. If your airbrush has a physical way to restrict how far back you can pull I'd recommend setting it to very little travel if you are not confident in your practice. Then you need to be REALLY mindful about ONLY pulling back on the trigger AFTER you depress it. 'Spitting' is never good but it is especially damaging and noticeable when done close up when mottling.
5) keep the tip clean
This is a bit more relevant to acrylic paints like vallejo but if I'm painting a large subject (like a 1/72 FW200) with tamiya I'll do this as well. Have a sponge wetted with whatever cleans the paint your are useing, and occasionally 'stab' the sponge lightly with the tip of your brush (not dish sponges, light stuff like painting / art sponges). Vallejo especially is really bad about this, and this will kill your mottle like nothing else to have paint dry on the tip. besides an ability to get really close and see what you are doing, this the other big advantage of painting with the cap off.
Here also, if you have to stop painting for a few minutes or more, be sure to do a short burst off of your model when you start up again just in case - especially with the thinner paint - that some hasn't pooled down the needle in the downtime and causing a spit.
Hope that helps! Ultimately though it's something you have to do to learn
Just got this for only 5 dollars at my local store. I agree with your opinion on the kit. That canopy makes me wanna throw up...
Really nice result. I like the restraint shown in weathering. As regards the sticky putty used for masking (in the UK it is usually called Blue Tack) can you use it again once it has been painted?
yes. I usually just work it around in my hand a few times, and the putty tends to absorb it. Once it seems to have reached a certain "saturation" after a number of models I use it exclusively to hold on to parts, and once it gets to be way too sticky it's time to through it out. So they are not one time uses, but they don't last forever. I get a new egg of two of silly putty once every year or so.
I am trying to switch to bluetac though. Newer silly putty seems to have a lot more oil in it, and I have already ruined one paintjob with it.
Some good tips for me to follow here. Thanks
very good painting work, I will follow you to see your next videos. Regards my friend
Great build, greetings and sub from germany
No one cares plus ur probs not even from Deutschland
@@danieljustin9686 nice one kiddo but this isn’t a fortnite channel
i know it's quite off topic but do anyone know a good site to stream newly released movies online ?
@Colt Mark lately I have been using flixzone. You can find it on google :)
@Peyton Sonny Yea, have been using flixzone for months myself :D
Good work and beautiful model. No pin wash for panel lines?
The best 1/72 scale model i ever built
Excellent job! Could you tell me what Revell enamels I should use? Thanks
Hi , great build, how did you do the spots on side of fuselage , cheers
Very thin, very close, VERY low pressure.
any help on making revell 55 enamel more grey? Mines just Bright blue btw nice build
Mix in a light grey. Im not certain about that specific color, but in general thats how youd go about it.
Have a piece of cardboard or scrap plastic and just mix until you like the outcome.
@@TheWaggishAmerican thanks man
Nice job there.
I have this kit, hope it turns out just as good, top job! (subbed) :)
Oooo did i just see a iwata hp c plus?Whats your needle nozzle setup for it i guess 0.3 or 0.2 right
Yep! It’s an HP-C Plus! I don’t remember the nozzle size, but I’m pretty sure it’s .2
You really master the airbrush! Can you tell me, if you want, the needle size and pressure? Sheers :))
Needle size is .2, pressure is between 15 and 20 psi for normal stuff, and 10-12 psi for mottling
thanks a lot!
Want to see you building a F-86 from de Korean War...
Job well done..........
How are These Little Spraycans told you Where using in this Vid
Was there any requirement to add weight in the front part , inside the nose part , above the front gear ?
Yes. I filled the entire nose with BB’s and super glued them in place
Wow i want to paint like you
great job
I will never get this way of preshading. What is the point of painting whole model with grey primer, then whole model with black paint, and then adding light grey to 90% of model surface? Just paint it grey primer, then use black paint to apply thin lines on the panel lines, and boom - job done with 1 layer of paint(primer + really thin panel shades) instead of 3 layers (primer, black, and 90% surface covered in light grey). :)
Well, I was doing it wrong here. This technique doesn't really work on 1/72 aircraft anyway. In 48th scale and above, (and when done correctly), this technique makes it much easier to create a discolored surface. Ideal, you want to "Marble" the surface after the black, build up a very splotchy layer of different opacity's of lighter color, and leave the panel lines mostly untouched. In larger scales, it works pretty well. Unless you are doing a huge bomber of some kind, though, it's mostly a waste in this scale.
Quick thinking, except doing it this way gives you softer preshading instead of the harsh black line
@@konradalexander7561 use a wash
Great result.
Does it come with paint?
No
Rigging looks a bit thick, I’ve noticed that other modellers work over a dark background, really makes the colours pop,overall I enjoyed your build...😎
I've considered doing a dark background before, but with my current setup all it really does is cause a lot of glare problems from my lights. Additionally, probably worst, I film on an iPhone 5- not the greatest camera setup in the world. My phone cannot handle the dynamic range in a way that accurately depicts the colors, doesn't create bizarre shadows, and doesn't leave video grainy or washed out.
Pictures I sometimes take on a DSLR which is why you get a couple dark background shots that look okay in the end-of video slideshow.
Is this a good first model?
Sorry for the late reply but I wouldn't recommend it.
Amazing model!!!))) 🙂
Main landing gear only cant inwards six degrees each!
WOW!👍🙂♠️
FINGER NAILS NEED TRIMMING
Wtf m8 shut up
Absolutely. Perfekt video, but nails Are awfull.
For me it was the worst model i ever finished, i forgot to add weight to the front but luckily i managed to seal those ejection ports at front before gluing it all together so i drilled tiny hole between wheels and injected in some hot wax with syringe while nose down. Biggest Bs i ever did with model
I'm sorry if I gave you a thumbs down because although the kit looks great it's the presentation doing it in timelapse photography and no narration the reason for the thumbs down.
I'm very new at this and I'm very scared to do anything wrong which is the reason I need narration and no timelapse photography.
Sincerely
Allan
If you watch it on a Computer, you can select the speed of the video using the settings symbol next to the Subtitles icon. You can speed it up to 2 x speed and slow it down to 0.25 x speed. Using this for the parts that you are interested in will slow it down to the point that you can watch it at near normal speed. I think it was a little unfair to give this guy a thumbs down for the reason that you gave, but it's your choice I suppose.
Have fun with your modelling and best of luck to you.
Joe
I'm not totally sure what you mean by no narration... I gave information at the start of a noteworthy segment like I usually do. For the time being, all of my video's are timelapse. I have been looking into getting a new camera, however, and if I do I'll take your suggestion into account and try a more 'live' build series on a kit. Until then, though, if you are looking for non-timelapse, then this channel probably isn't for you.
Thanks for the Feedback!
Waggish
To add to what Joe is saying- when I edit these video's, I speed it up to 4x speed, so setting your speed to .25 would screw up the audio, but you would be able to see it in exactly real time.
Great job