My best workshop bench || RotarySMP
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- Опубліковано 29 лип 2024
- Why doesn't my MIG feed correctly?
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00:00 - Intro
00:45 - Cabinets
01:38 - Steel
02:07 - Paint stripping
04:43 - Frame fabrication
06:22 - Mig welding
09:45 - What is wrong with my MIG welder?
13:05 - Switch to TIG
14:43 - Mail time - new welder
23:43 - Welding out the frame
32:40 - Bench top
35:27 - Painting
47:05 - Finished bench
__________________
Music:
Andrew Word - I Will Find You
Cristof Walters - Serenity
Jamie Rutherford - Far Away Feelings
Jamison Dewlen - Once upon a Time in the West Elevator
Leva - Jet Stream
Leva - On the Wave
Leva - Spark
MANYUKO - Ice Scream
Marcelo Nami - Spanish Guitar Impressions
Ziv Moran - Like a Feather - Наука та технологія
If the sweeping was such a hit (for engagement) you should probably add some paint drying!
Good idea. I sort of previewed paint stripper bubbling as well :)
ngl paint drying sped up is kinda hype ^^
Please ignore the naysayers, if they don't like your videos nothing is stopping them from making their own and we both know that will never happen. That lovely bench will outlive your children.👍x100
Thanks Ken. I really liked that one comment complaining about the sweeping. Made me laugh.
Lovely bench, hard to believe a temporary bench ended up being temporary!
It was good that everyone piled onto trash it, once I bolted the vise to it. :)
@@RotarySMP 😂😂😂
I don't know what Richard complains about. I love the sweeping intermissions, it's so nice to see things get clean and tidy.
Thanks for the positive support :)
In MIG welding, you have essentially 3 main variables you control.
The first is your wire feed, this is where you should start, and you should set it based upon the thickness of your base metal and the size of the weld bead you need. Wire feed is your main means of adjusting your heat input, it is akin to amperage control in TIG or stick welding.
Secondly, voltage is your main means of arc control, and thus your weld bead profile. It also contributes some to your overall heat input, but significantly less than wire feed. More voltage relative to a given feed rate will increase the arc length, which will generally widen and flatten out your bead profile, but be careful, as too much voltage for a given feed rate can lead to bad metal transfer characteristics and undercut in the base metal along the toes of your weld.
Your final variable is the length between the end of the contact tube and the base metal which you should attempt to actively control as you are welding. The shorter this length is, the better your penetration and tie-in strength will be. Keeping this consistently short, and pairing it with appropriate gun orientation and motion when welding is the best way to control your final weld bead's shape, assuming the other two settings are correct for the given task.
TimWelds did a video on this just last week that really good. But what's never mentioned about things like increasing or decreasing the wire feed rate is how it affects your travel time.
Thanks for the explanation. Is the possible to still make good welds, if the welder is not capable to exceeding 2m/min wire speed? Since the wire speed is only controllable in that very small range of 1.4-2m/min (although marked 2-13), I couldn't find a matching voltage which flattened out the welds at all.
@@RotarySMP Might be interesting to take the wire out of the equation, and put a tachometer on the roller to see what the actual rotation rate is. Using that and the diameter of the wheel, you can calculate what the no-load feed rate would be. Or perhaps the potentiometer is bad and the rate isn't actually changing much. Lastly, it could just be an unfortunate side effect of Chinese made equipment.
Marker pen blob on the roller and 6 seconds of video to get the load free number. Roller didn’t look great for the friction needed for the higher wire speed.
I am just 3 minutes in my video and I have to warn you about working with the paint stripper in your shop.
I used it to strip the paint off my lathe and I think its vapors have caused terrible rust to almost everything in my shop.
I have a drawer with screws that were in a perfect state for years and after I used paint stripper they started rusting. It seems that it stopped now, but a few months after I was desperate when I was finding more and more nasty rust spots.
Thanks for the feedback. I am glad I used that in the wood shop, and not around the mill or lathe.
In 1993 I was deployed for operation southern watch. Walked in the chow hall one day and the community bulletin board had a fresh picture of an F-15 with an enormous gap in the right wing tip Down to the honeycomb fuel cell from the tow team running it into the steel I beam of a sun shade. Ouch
Darn, that would have generate a couple of reams of paperwork. As will this A320Neo.
I'm very pleased to see that Mrs. RotarySMP also uses safety slippers to their fullest effect 😂
It is a family thing.
Who’d have thought you could glam up a work bench!
@@johnsherborne3245 Thanks. :)
@@RotarySMP actually I’d say is Mrs Rotary!
@@johnsherborne3245 Thanks on her behalf :)
Sunday afternoon: cleaned my gravelbike, readjusted handlebar of MTB (fro the last ride when my front wheel got stuck in a ditch ...) and made the horn work again on my motorbike (thanks Kontakt 60) and then your latest post to finish the day.
What a treat!
Sounds like a busy day.
2 comments this week: at first glance, the thumbnail image looked like a Pask Makes video, which is meant to be a high compliment🙂 Second, thanks for the "It's just a workbench" statement. It makes no sense to me when UA-camrs make fine furniture for their workshop. I think you hit the mark with making it nice without going over the top👍
Thanks Ben. I have seen a lot of his videos. They are very well done.
I will put scratches and dings in this bench soon enough. It is a tool, not a sculpture :).
6:00 love the slide hammer centre punch thingy - not seen one of these before!
I made that in shop class when I was 11 or 12 years old. We even heat treated the silversteel/drill rod tip.
With the wire feed issue, make sure your spool isn't tightened too much as well, it's a good indicator that the spool is too tight when the length of wire doesn't change much or at all when you change the feed rate.
Thanks for the input. I will check this.
The cleaning is satisfying to watch - you only show it occasionally anyway. And I reject the notion that I am wasting time watching you 😂
I always learn something!
Talking about the snapped tail-plane, it’s not been a good time for airport personnel! Did you see the shunting incident at Heathrow a month ago? Deary me…
34:44 was fun, you were at timelapse and the drawer was still slow, so it looked like a neat trick :)
It shows how wonky the floor is. Nothing is level here... except the bench :)
Very nice bench. As for the sweeping: I like the occasional inclusion of the "boring" shop maintenance stuff. As someone who doesn't have a shop, it's nice to get a peek behind the curtain of highly produced videos. They also work quite nicely as natural interludes anyway.
Doing that bench required a lot of lifting and manhandling of ever heavier parts, so I tried to give a sense of that as well, as too many YT videos make all this stuff look way too easy.
I sure wish that we could have the nice plywood that you europeans have just lying around here in Canada
On the other hand I'm sure glad that , that shade of green is not mandatory for machines here 😉
Oh and thats a darn fine work bench,should last forever
Nice welder gift.
Hi Steve. That 36mm beech ply is really heavy and solid. It was pricy, but I needed to remake the basement stairwell, and it has held up very well.
@@RotarySMP Beech as well ! assumed that it was birch, extra envious. at least we have plentiful (and expensive) hard maple butcher block
@@steveggca I really like maple. Probably my favourite hardwood. Not so easy to get here, although it does grow in mixed forests.
The bonus part of having lots of maple trees in our forests is maple syrup
Dude you’re watching UA-cam. .. love it !😂
I love your videos. It's nice to see someone who is having similar problems welding, just like me. I get tired watching people who never have problems and always get those perfect welds. Practice makes perfect and a good grinder helps too.
I don't weld often enough to get good at it, but I do enjoy welding.
@@RotarySMP I only have one good eye so welding is not easy for me, plus I'm an old guy whose pretty much night blind (after LASIC eye surgery to correct my vision in 2001). My secret weapon is an industrial LED light fixture mounted to one of those dental swivel lights that dentists use. The LED is about 40mm in diameter and would light up a black hole. More light = better welds. Also I use a clear view helmet. That changed my life after years of trying to weld with the old dark green hoods. It's much more fun welding when you can actually see the weld.
47 Minutes, lets goooo. Just in time for Sunday Lunch!
Thanks for stopping in.
@@RotarySMP Every week :-) Its a Sunday highlight.
Always looking forward to seeing what you have going on.
fr tho
Wow - that is an huge improvement. I can imagine your already amazing productivity will go up even more with that project completed. One day you should show us how you decided to populate all those sweet drawers. 👍👍😎👍👍
Hi Joel. It is a real luxury to have so much empty storage space. The LH one will be the Schaublins accessories. The RH one will probably end up with all my camera gear, and electrical/ electronic junk. Not yet sure exactly what goes where, but I will try to remember to show it once I have them filled.
Mark, try watching your weld puddle while welding, this should help you a lot. I wholeheartedly recommend you going a bigger nozzle + your nozzle tip not to be in-flush with the nozzle, but to protrude out of the nozzle for extra ~5mm. Once again, you need to do everything you can to be able to watch the weld puddle which I don't believe is happening now.
Thanks for the tips. You have an excellent eye for this. The new helmut I was sent give much better visibility than my old one, but I am certainly not giving the puddle the focus it needs. I notice a couple of welds where I could see it well, and was sitting comfortably, were also the best welds.
@@RotarySMP you're welcome. I didn't mention it clearly, but I think you got it right that for the stick-out I was referring to the MIG part of your welding. Although keeping eyes wide open instead of wide closed (hello, Stanley) is a good idea whichever process you choose.
I really like that bench-vise.
It is a really nice tool.
A few years ago I borrowed a Mig welder to speed up a project. It too appeared to feed wire too slow and it didn't change much after turning up the wire feed knob. It turned out that the machine was just fine. It was just programmed to feed a lot slower when it didn't sense any arc!
I got the feedback from the manufacturer that this one does the same. Should have put that in their manual.
Once you get a decent tig there's no going back I have the same machine and I love it.
I really like the control this one gives. Now I just need to get better at using it :)
The wire spacing method from ThisOldTony is to allow for correction on one axis of deflection. You tacked all 4 corners of the pipe instead. You should only tack the outer two, remove the wire, then tack the other laterals while holding it in the right position. This lets it bend in or out while you're doing the laterals. Only tack and weld the inside of the corner when everything is done on the lateral members.
Thanks for that. I need to rewatch his video.
I assume that's a solid steel wire for the mig welding, since you got CO2 hooked up? I heard that with flux core a serrated drive wheel is desirable, because it can otherwise just crush the wire and feed less than it should. But since it clearly isn't slipping, that doesn't seem to be it either... I've also seen in some welding tutorials on youtube that being able to stop the wire is actually OK for tension (not being able to stop it would be too much tension). But again: clearly not the cause of the mismatch in feed rate anyway.
The "weirdness" on your new welders wirebrush is a pseudo-hammer to get rid of the slag from stick welding.
Thanks for looking at that. Yes is is solid core wire. That is a pretty weeny slag hammer. I already have a better one :)
Love how you keep adding pieces to your workshop and seeing it come together .. thanks for the videos!
Thanks for the kind feedback.
Laughing about mishaps is one of the best personality traits 😁😁
Cracked me up how easily my tacks fell apart :)
@@RotarySMP no pun intendet xD
One tip for paint removal is to use those stainless steel pot scourers, I bought a pack from Lidl haven’t even worn the first one out yet and with the kind of stripper you used the paint washes out of them with water.
Thanks Tony, good idea. I used steel wool, but it disintegrated pretty fast.
Another top job and video. Looks like you had a productive week. Thanks Mark.
That was a productive month :)
We love the videos! I don't care if you're sweeping because you respect our time with the voice over. What do they expect, for you to cut to black or something and voice over nothing? You're showing the entire process, it can't all be sexy.
Thanks for the kind feedback.
Rule of thumb for TIG is 40A per mm of material thickness. It gives a good starting amps and you can titivate up and down as needed.
You have far more patience than I have with paint prep. It's what I really hate about painting, to the point I will do everything in the house except painting and decorating. I get someone in to do that.
And the second rule is don't weld your wiener
Thanks Bill. But doesn't that wire speed seem way low?
@@RotarySMP I have never used MIG until last year, when I forked out for an R-Tech welder, already had their AC/DC TIG. Still on the first spool of wire and the welder has no voltage or wire speed indication on it. So I tend to set it where it seems to be OK. But, yes your wire speed on the old welder did seem to be slow. I will have to experiment as you did to work out what the actual speeds are. Must admit I use the MIG most these days, unless it's a stainless or alloy job.
@@billdoodson4232 I also really enjoy working with the TIG torch.
Suns just up here in noiseyland and what a great watch over coffee, perfect inspiration for the coming day in the workshop, watching someone else work. PS your RAL green obsession is indeed an obsession, although it is very close to thunderbird 2 so it's ok I guess, and now that you have a different tone who knows where it may end up, you may discover hue ;) The combination of green and steel reminds me of a Cà Lem construction, very nice. That weirdness on the brush is a slag chipper for arc btw and the foot pedals made for the Texan market obviously, or perhaps hairy Himalayans. Looking forward to some sweeping action, the Richards of the world need the brush-off. PS the vice and it's fixture (bench) are glorious
Thanks for your kind feedback. That is a pretty weirdly little chipping hammer. I have better one :)
hell of a nice bench, I don't like the bare steel look (I would have painted them grey) but its not my bench. Thank you for taking the time showing us, and thank you more for the parts you didn't show lol
Thanks for the feedback. If I find the steel rusts and is a pain to keep okay, I could still paint them.
Thank you for making (almost) every Sunday morning something to look forward to.
Could you maybe show a little sketch of your workshop floorplan in one of your next videos? (Or if you have in the past maybe tell me which video?) I always get confused by all your little rooms in there haha.
Thanks a lot Ryan. I am not putting floor plans out there would get past the Finance and security minister :)
@@RotarySMP Fair enough, love the longer length video! Would love to see more of those.
A point to check with your mig running slow is the liner and lead. They can get pinched and will affect the wire speed as will a liner with a groove worn in it. That said it's probably the Controller not giving out enough voltage. The feed motors can slow but they usually just work or not.
It would suck if that is the case, as that was a new welder, and this was the first time the MIG side of it was ever used.
@@RotarySMP Probably got the wrong motor or the Controller needs an adjustment. It could be as simple as a pot adjustment?
@@dazaspc Shame the manual is useless, so there is no info on this sort of issue.
That's a good bench, and your skill set is getting pretty good, lots of diversity and plenty of depth. Thanks for bringing a bit of light into my weekend, needed that. Good to see the missus helping with the heavy lifting too, can't wait for Mrs. SMPs channel to debut.
Glad you enjoyed it. I am happy to have all that additional storage space.
the foot pedal is new and unique.
that would be too nice for my garage ;o) It's like a design/assembly station.
It will get scratched up and used.
Great workbench! It really does look solid.
Should really help with hack sawing, as no energy goes into wobbling the bench.
Great video. As always. I love your shows.
Thanks WIllem.
Jodie says keep the hot tip of your filler in the gas plume. My trick (before I got a magnetic torch test) was slinging the torch over something and burning my leg :) For a dodgy non welder like me yours look alright :) Dunno about your MIG issue as mine just worked mostly. Just followed the guide on the door. I find MIG easier mostly - metal hot glue :) Main source of error is travel speed for me.
Since the feed speed is nothing like the label says, I probably should not believe the current rating either, and just dime it, see what happens.
Your tig welding is getting better. Try working the puddle with the torch for a smoother weld.
Thanks for your feedback. I look forward to the next project for more practice.
@@RotarySMP If you don't know the channel, you might look at WeldingTipsAndTricks. He has been running what amounts to online welding classes for years. He's covered a whole lot of techniques and problems for all types of welding. He has a number of videos where he varies one parameter at a time and shows the results.
@@lwilton Thanks. I have been watching his videos a lot lately, but I guess I need to rewatch some of his MIG set up ones.
Nice (new) workbench!
Did not know, that elbowgrease is measured in imperial units only 😀
Me neither :)
I love the new workbench! It’s awesome!!! Cheers!!
Thanks, glad you liked it.
Wonderful bench, and a great video of the build! I am spoilt with mig as mine is three phase and 250A but turn the current up and wire feed down to get the beads to sink into the parent metal. That new tig looks good, mine is ac/dc miller from the early eighties with no foot pedal, the arc on your new machine is almost plasma like! Have fun!
Phil
Thanks Phil. That ArcCaptain really does strike a nice arc.
You’ve cost me nearly two hours today, because I began watching this and realised I’d missed the vice refurb, so naturally had to go back and watch that first 🤣nice bench btw
Thanks for watching them both. Glad you enjoyed them.
Very nice job on the bench.👍
I like your review of the New Arc Captain Welder.👍
That vise is sure heavy duty. 👍
Have a great day.
Thanks, you too!
very good job RotarySMP
Thanks.
your response to the sweeping comment earned my sub alone lmao
just finished the video, beautiful outcome!
Thanks for your kind feedback.
Perfect timing - about to start designing a base for my CNC mill...
Hi Philip. Glad you enjoyed it.
@@RotarySMP Just a thought on the "not enough depth" on the bandsaw - I wonder how feasible it would be to twist the blade 45 degrees like the horizontal and handheld ones do? Might make an interesting project.
43:43 -- is your place haunted? That drawer just opened all by itself 👻
It is a good example how wonky the floor it. This dry often opens if I dont push it fully home.
That holster is great for the mig torch, but you're gonna want a different style for the tig stinger. Something more akin to a soldering iron stand.
Also, when you're welding to that rounded edge of a piece like that tube steel, you can cut a piece of welding rod to length and lay it down in the gap. That way, when you're welding, it melts too, and you have more filler metal to take care of that oversized gap created by the filleted corners.
Thanks for the tips! I appreciate that.
Eh, I don’t care what you do. I’ll watch it anyway. It may not always be the most interesting of topics but you make them entertaining. I’m actually pretty surprised at how much I’ve learned from your mundane videos.
For example, as I speak I’m watching you strip paint. Am I enthralled? No. Am I entertained? Yes. Did I learn something? Yes. My takeaway is that if I want a project to go quickly, I need to do it via a montage.
Yeah, it is somewhat depressing to do the edit. Things which you spend hours on, melt to second with ease :)
That is indeed a very nice workbench!
Thanks, it is nice to have all that extra storage space.
Nice job! Looks great!
Thank you! Cheers!
For leveling feet I really love ball hitches. They're pretty cheap, look nice, and can take a massive beating
Interesting idea. I would never have thought of that. They would have been too high for this job, but must look funky.
I love that vice, great videos mate. Thank you.
Thanks for the kind feedback.
Looks pretty slick. Everyone likes a sturdy bench.
I am happy about all the extra storage as well.
Very nice job, and thanks for saving your viewers from any gratuitous shots of your backside. 🙂 There are a few other UA-camrs I follow who aren't so polite, and I have to hold my thumb up to the screen to provide cover.
Thanks for the feedback Stuart. :)
I don't wanna be a Naysayer so......Bloody good job! You should be very happy! Weiner burn is gotta hurt!
Keep up the good work!
Thanks, I am pretty happy with it.
Fantastic work on that bench! 🙂
Glad you like it! I do too :)
Great content as always!
Greetings from Southern Burgenland, Erich
Thanks for watching Erich.
Grate video!! it would be a pity to use it now:)
Hi Luke. It will be used. I will try to look after it, but I don't baby tools too much.
That’s good they are meant to be used. The paint job on the circular saw looks like it needs a bit of a touch up;)
A very effective and inexpensive paint remover is to use lye. Lye is NaOH sodium hydroxide/ caustic soda or KOH potassium hydroxide. Sodium hydroxide is more effective. Mix lye into water. This will get very hot and fume up a bit, so do it outside and wear rubber gloves and eye protection. After the mixture cools, stir in some cornstarch till you get a gel like consistency. If you put starch in while it is hot, it will cook the starch and it will set up like silicone rubber. Now you have a homemade, non toxic paint remover.
I used NaOH on my vise. The issue is the concentration and personal safety in the home shop.
Oh, and don't forget to put up the link for the stream later on.
Thanks Alexander. I had forgotten.
That's a nice one. And emty.
The day I have to store something I will send it to you.
Can't wait! :)
Grate video, on the mig welding think you where going too fast, slowing down will make the weld more flat, but on thing tubing like that you do really need to be carful to not burn thrue.
Thanks for the tip. Have you checked the actual wire speed on your MIG? Is the speed of mine normal?
@@RotarySMP i have a old slovenian Varstroj supermig 230, I can check it next week end if youd like. Also can highly recomend theas old machines, cheap and work grate.
That weird wire brush has a chipping hammer on the back side for chipping the slag off stick welds..fairly common Chinesium product..like the hand held welding shield thst comes with welders..even tig welding machines..like to see 1 handed tig welding they do in China..
Okay, I already have a much better chipping hammer. Thanks.
Leaving the drawer fronts raw looks really great against the (approximately) RAL 6011, and the entire project turned out solid and looking good. But one question... Why bolt the table to the frame from the top side? Welding some angle underneath would have allowed using lag bolts that could later be removed if necessary.
Hi JC,
I decided I didn't want to rely on threads in wood, but that is probably pretty irrelevant, as this thing is rock steady.
Oh dude. You got a worshop ghost. Spotted during the second painting time laps, it opened up a drawer.
Just thought you wanted a heads up before you get spooked or it poltergeist some bolts into your knees.
I noticed that during the edit. It is my electrical junk drawer so maybe that junk has become sentient? :)
I don't like time-lapses very much
But brooming the floor us one of the best applications for it
Or removing paint
Anything satisfying really 😁
Thanks for the feedback on that. I use a lot of sped up footage as machining takes ages otherwise.
@@RotarySMP generally if progress or something visually is happening its a valid tool
machining is also cool
but repetetive stuff like screwing or assembling 3 entire ikea shelves or sth is annoying
unless you only show one
jump cuts are a cool alternative z.B.
cut every time you sink a nail in or something
then for the next shelve do something else creative
like cutting on beat
regardless of the action (sped up on top mby)
and the next maybe something entirely different
have fun really ^^
but if you rely on speeding up footage to make it exiting
the footage is boring
I can speed up videos on the player
I dont need you for that (okay I watch on 2x so everything is sped up for me, but I can understand language perfectly fine still)
but If you do It with intention
its probably great no matter what you do
even when or if you do is creative
you dont need 500 edits
class over rmass
and all over all
personality is the most important
and you got that one on lock my friend ^^
Shame your MIG wasn’t up for it that would be a great application for MIG. Still new welder 😀 nice. Need to get a pedal for my TIG at some point but don’t use it a huge amount. Great result with the new bench
Hi Julia, I wonder why the wire feed is so far off?
@@RotarySMP Hi Mark, having thought about it maybe a low voltage on the auxiliary power supply for the wire feeder? Perhaps a dead diode so it’s only half wave rectified instead of full? The UK MIG welding forum has a lot of good technical people who do repairs so maybe they have an idea… 😀
“Is there a TIG torch in your pocket or are you just pleased to see me?” 😜
:)
Very good video as always! I loke the long videos..
Glad you enjoyed it. I cant always do such long videos, as it took over a month to do this project.
@@RotarySMP I know the deal very well. I've been trying to finish a simple slitting saw arbour for the last 2 weeks!
I know your first tig weldercwas a gift but I always thought it was a bit .... handicapping in the tig quality dept. The new one is loads better. 👍
Thanks Chris. I was very generous of Alex, but he said from the start that I would grow out of it pretty fast. It is a shame the MIG function is not really useable, with the wire feed too slow.
With a small mig welder,I always use the smallest wire available. .023 in sae. That way I have more amperage for the wire size.
Thanks for the tip Michael. Have you measured the wire speed on your MIG?
@@RotarySMP I have not. But happy to when I get back to the shop
My work welder is a millermatic 135 it's running about 36 inches in 6 seconds. So roughly 94cm. 944cm per minute? That's at 60% wire speed and 80% amperage on .023 er70s with 75/25 gas and is my median settings for general repairs on 1/8" to 3/16 metals. I have a snap on 135 amp welder at home,I'll check it but I'm guessing it should be very close to this wire speed
There is a quick wire feeding button above the wire feeding device, in red, press that, then wire feeding speed will be in normal, cheers!
Hi Edward, Thanks for that input.
I just went to the basement and checked, and you are right, there is a button at the top of that wire area. It is not described in the manual. How does this help if the feed speed is way to low during welding, or am I seeing a reduced speed as there is no arc, and it would speed up to the set value once an arc is struck?
@@RotarySMP the low speed mode is for cst to replace the MIG/MAG wire, for if the feeding speed is too quick, the welding wire maybe blocked in tube; Once start welding, it will change to quick speed mode automatically 🙂
@@edwardwang3359 Thanks. I wonder why they didn't bother to mention that in the manual?
theres a trick to setting up a vice , put in 2 pieces of metal verticlu and make it stick out under the foot , them put the vice on the table and push it in untill the pieces of metal hit the edge of the worktop then scribe the mountingholes
that way youre able to clamp in long pieces as they whont hit the worktop on the way down
just thinking out loud herre , workbenches and such are usually banged against and paint chips off constandly making them look ratty and worn in no time , might be a good idea to paint those things in bedliner
This is a rear jaw opening vise, so that method doesn't work unfortunately.
I don't mind when things like this take on a patina of use. It is a tool.
My bench has a solid core door for a top... My friend (jodaddysgarage) has been doing videos for Arc Captain for a while now and is really happy with their welders. Las time I was out at his place I met him at Orlando airport and we picked up his new RV and drove it back to his place. I played with the welder enough to like it enough that I want one of my own. My videos are too crap to ever get any views or support as I don't have the filming and editing gene. The mig is far better on the low end for auto body than my current welder. My welder sounds like a tornado while that Arc Captain is silent till it gets warm.
I need to get a dedicated argon bottle (and change gas supplier)to get back to Tig welding. Tig welds are softer than MIG and easier to grind which makes body work easier.
FYI all my shop benches are at 42". Puts them at a comfortable working height and I can roll carts under it and it's the answer to everything. That green reminds me of the old equipment in school shops. Also for my long bench across the wall I topped it with 1/8 hardboard with a white "waterproof" coating. It's cheap stuff supposedly meant for use in showers. I can write on it with pencil and it's cheap and easy to replace when I damage it.
That vice looks awesome as well.
I dont normally go for the various product offers you get when you do the social media thing, but Arc Captain reached out at just the right time while I was ordering steel to make this, and my contact there has been very friendly and easy to deal with.
@@RotarySMP They are a good company to deal with and a good product. Love the light for seeing inside the unit when loading wire too.
The offers I have gotten from some fly by night products I have gotten I would never consider doing. But Arc Captain is a stand up company and a good choice for you.
If your welds are to tall you should increase voltage.
If your welds are to wide & flat your voltage is to high, as a rule of thumb
Thanks.
You might not be able to measure the wire feed speed like this because of "run-in speed". The welder spits out the wire with a different speed until it starts to actually weld - arc forms-which helps with starts. Sometimes the knob for adjusting run-in speed is located near the wire feed but I didn't see it in the video (it could be mounted in different models->holes above feeder).
It's quite probable that this welder has either fixed run-in or it's configured as a function of the welding wire speed and that's why there is little or no change when you measure it like you did.
Thanks Tom. I need to put a dot on the spool, and film it during a weld and see if it speeds up once the arc is struck.
@@RotarySMP No worries! I would probably put a dot on the drive roller though. The change in rpm should be more visible (?) and it has a know diameter so you can more easily calculate the speed directly from video.
Also...I am not much of a mig welder since I started on stick and tig but I do quite a bit of it now. Since you also started on stick I think you might be getting big beads mostly due to travel speed. Mig is really fast and the muscle memory from stick tells you to go kinda slow. Therefore you get a lot of metal into the weld area... It was an issue at least in my case. I can't really judge from the video but those welds didn't seem "cold" (sound a looks) so maybe you can just go a bit quicker.
How did that draw slide open on its own? Shop GHOST!
Uneven floor plus gravity! Was kind of cool though. Thanks for noticing.
Love your videos! I would really appreciate it if you could throw in a rough guesstimate at the end how much your shop projects cost
Thanks for the feedback.
This one is a bit hard to say as the wooden slab would have been expensive, butwas a left over from making new stairs nearly a decade ago. I paid €500 for those used drawer cabinets. Probably excessive, but they were the perfect dimensions. The paint was about €75, but I will get another project out of it. I spend about €250 on steel, but that is also supposed to cover 3 or 4 projects. Then there are the paint rollers, bolts, filler wire, €70 customs duty on the comp welder etc.
All in all not very respresentitive of what it would cost another person to do something similar.
Parabéns ! Muito bom.
Obrigado
What wire do you use as filler? You might want to try thicker filler wire, it seems to me you have to dab too often. It might be because of the sped up footage, but still, some experimentation would not hurt.
Aluminium is a lot harder to TIG weld, it's better to be quite comfortable welding steel first, before taking the leap.
Also the torch on the new machine has a wheel, that lets you adjust the current while welding, just like the pedal. It is handy, when you need both of your legs free. You can also adjust how "hot" the puddle is by changing your travel speed.
I would encourage you to learn 4T, when you are starting a weld and hold the button down, it gives you a lower amperage (the amp setting after the pre-flow time). This gives you time to start and stabilize the arc, see where you are and what is the arc pointed at. Then you let go of the button, when you are ready, and start welding.
I only had 1/16" filler, but have ordered some 3/32" (2.4mm).
I noticed that I need to practice 4T, to free up my trigger finger to control the amp wheel of the torch. Thanks for confirming that.
Was just about to comment that your green colour isn't much better than the "original" paint. Looks much better in not gras-green green.
RAL 6011 is an acquired taste. :)
Damn nice work... Nice Tig machine as well, tho, your tig welding is also getting better for sure! I would consider thicker tungstens, you can always grind down a thick tungsten to a long taper - sharp point, thin ones are just a limit to max amperage that you can use... I never saw any use for a thin tungsten... Not outside an edm sinker drill at any rate...
Best regards!
Steuss
Thanks for the feedback Stuess. I did buy a packet of 2.4mm / 3/32" electrodes, but followed the settings sticker and used the thinner ones. I need to grind up the thicker ones and give them a go.
@@RotarySMP Yeah, 2.4 are generally the best... At least in my experience... They go up to 200 amps, and that is good enough for most work... Just be aware of the radioactive electrode dust from certain electrodes and hexavalent chromium fumes if you weld inox... Zinc fume fever is damn bad, yet hexavalent chromium is infinitely worse and much more subtle...
Tig is amazing and can be most enjoyable, but it has more risks than just the obvious ones...
Great video as always. I love the new workbench, great job on that. I picked up a useful pointer for myself too. Namely, don't use my wiener as a heat sink (I'm one of those special Heathers with a wiener). I was a bit confused by the airline being cut short at about 38:30 and then being long again at about 45:00. Time machine broke did it?
Also I was very angry about the amount of cleaning and tidying in this video. I called the police but they said they couldn't do anything because you're in another country. I called Interpol who were surprised to hear from me but were very understanding. They did initially suggest that I could skip ahead in the video for the parts that made me angry. I told them not to be silly and do their job. I wasn't sure where you are located but just know that they are on to you.
Yours furiously - Heather
Hi Heather. I will attempt to be less orderly and clean less in future videos ;)
@@RotarySMP Ha! I knew that would scare you off.
It's still a while until my birthday, but it certainly feels like it's today.
Hi Alexander. That was a lot of work, but I am really happy with the result.
@@RotarySMP Me too. Looks like someone even installed some Ethernet keystones.
@@graealex Yep (well it is work in progress).
Do you have any ideas about the Stamos MIG wire speed being so low?
@@RotarySMP No, but I could ask the company, and reference the video. It's certainly a good demonstration.
43:42 Call an exorsist!
Will do :)
I did the same for my desk! I got a drawer cupboard from an auction in an office and put a kitchen counter on top
Also do you think the small spool has less surface speed than the normal sized one?
The manufacturer got back to me that the feed only goes to full speed when the arc strikes.
A good rule of thumb for steel tig is 1A per .001" of material, so 3mm will get you to approx 120, but I'll always set it a bit higher just to have that bonus power if your setup needs it to get the bead fully burned in. I'd go like 140 and just not stomp the pedal to the floor by default.
Big heavy foot pedal? Not so much. A foot pedal that sits on the floor without spinning? Very much so.
Looking at you, Everlast Nova foot pedal stamped out of a single piece of sheet metal with no foot points to keep from spinning in the middle on a high spot on the floor...
The lip for your shoe is nice, mostly, too.. being able to pull the pedal and find your orientation without looking is nice. I miss that.
Thanks for the tips Paul. I look forward to getting more practice with it.
Get some stubby cups and/or a gas lens kit, also. Your stickout seems a bit long for a plain cup in the #7-#8 range.
Once you run a #7, #8, maybe #10 gas lens on steel, you'll never want to go back to a plain cup.
I only use a plain cup for aluminum now.
Looking good though. At the start of the video I was quite frustrated you were still fighting with that fixed power piece of junk and it was great to see how your welds instantly improved
And just when you are ready, your wife tells you : we are moving out, I found a better home... 😉
Luckily in Vienna, that is not likely.
Thanks for the video. As always, very enjoyable to watch.
How does the wood wax behave on the metal over a long period of time? Do you have any experience?
No idea. If I start seeing rust spots, I'll wipe some more on I guess. Generally, I have no rust issues in this basement.
That is a great workbench, well done! Are the paint pigments used all oxides ( ? ) so they are quite stable colour wise and thus the paint does not fade in Sunlight?
I have no idea what the paint color is based upon, but there is no sunlight in my basement ;)
Amazing, that turned out really nice!
For applying the paint, is the roller better than a brush?
Thanks Johann.
The foam roller makes a nice orange peel surface finish, but it used way, way more paint that spraying. I only rolled it because would have been too much of a pain to drag it to the wood shop for spraying. I haven't done much brush painting, so I cant really compare that to rolling.
@@RotarySMP Thanks for the explanation!
a loot of work but is very nice
Thanks. I am happy with it.
Hey Mark. I'm only here for the sweeping up. Stop wasting my time with all of this engineering nonsense will you?
A nice new toy you have there mate. Have you seen 6061's channel? He has a pressure sensitive button to control the current. I haven't tried it, but it looks intuitive ie the harder you press, the more current is applied. I guess it provides finer control from your finger, much like drawing or with a knife cutting. It also allows control in tighter spaces with less contortion to try and reach the pedal. Keep up the good work, and that's a nice bench.
That ArcCaptain torch also has a current pot on in, but I worked out towards the end that I need to switch to 4T, to free up my trigger finger to work the gas pedal.
Saw the small "soda stream" CO2 bottle. I tried that once and the flask emptied right away :/ How was it working for you? (The co2 gas here in Iceland is very expensive for a hobbyist)
My first bottle was also immediately empty. I checked everything and had a slightly loose hose fitting where it leaked out. The second bottle is lasting okay, but there is not that much gas in there, so you cant to a big project.
Using small worm gear hose clamps on gas lines never feels good to me. I hate having expensive welding gas leak out when I forget to turn off the main valve. I bought a cheap selection box of PEX crimp clamps that work great for crimping various small tubing sizes.
Do you have the proper crimping pliers for them? I have shied away from buying yet another specialist tool.
@@RotarySMP When I started using PEX (home remodeling) my first crimper set cost $200 US (copper rings). Now a SS crimp ring tool costs as little as $20-30. A great tool to have. I recently forgot my pex tool while finishing up a friends PEX install so I used one of those nail puller pliers (nippers) to carefully crimp the SS ring (on one I missed crimping, oops). It worked great in a pinch (pun intended). PEX is also great for running air in your shop. A good excuse to buy the crimper tool. I gave up using copper pipe for anything but HVAC.
Just how thick is that plywood used for the top?
36mm. It is really quite heavy beech ply.
Are you using straight CO2? It wont penetrate like a 75/25 Argo mix.
Yeah, I dont want to sacrifice the space for another gas bottle, and am using a soda stream bottle of CO2.