Welded stand for the T&C Grinder || RotarySMP
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- Опубліковано 1 чер 2024
- Fabricating a transport dolly for a machine tool. The Clarkson tool and cutter grinder is a very handy machine, but seems to be always in the way. Lets make it easier to move around.
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00:00 - Intro
00:15 - Design
02:10 - Fabricating the base
03:29 - Welding the frame base
07:32 - Comparing welding helmets
08:30 - Getting better footage of welding
11:23 - The MIG does work
15:33 - Fabricating the caster mounts.
26:22 - Painting
27:00 - Mailtime
29:36 - Final assembly
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Music:
Ace - Brainstorm
Ace - Taurus
AlexGrohl - Shook Up
Anthony Lazaro - Drop of Summertime
Ben Bostick - Working for a Living
Ben Strawn - Some Days A Song for Kaley
Giants and Pilgrims - Til It Goes
Leva - Quiet Wind
Luc Allieres - Walk in the Bayou
Russo & Weinberg - All the Love Songs
Straight White Teeth - Gave It All to You - Наука та технологія
![6 Practical Drill bit Sharpening Hacks !!! [Subtitle]](/img/n.gif)
First hole is 1" in and the other hole is 25,4mm in. I see what you did there ;)
:)
All really smart people are bilingual, or maybe it's binumeral.
We Americans who still use the Stone Age system of measurement, wouldn’t get that lol
@@briantaylor9266 Bisystemal?
im late 1hour :))
"This Old Helmet" sounds like the name of a soon to be wildly popular metal working UA-cam channel. Bravo getting stuff done around the shop.
Thanks Vince. It should be called my medium old helmet. Thisoldhelmet is one of the really old ones which looks like the minion movie prop. :)
Thank you for making the effort and the investment to film the welding. It's really enjoyable, totally worth it!
I have done a bit more experimenting with this. Watch this space :)
Very art deco look, good to see the welding improving.
Pask would not kick of the shop :)
Thanks, I already started the next project, to keep in practice.
You're right, starting with a highly detailed plan is always...eh...well...
But it rolls, so it sure is a win :)
Hi Michel. Thanks. Looking forward to your mic wrap up. You are doing a nice job there.
Good job! The thing about self learned welding is "nothing to it but to do it"
Yeah, I really should do a course now, as I have a bit of practice and have learned a few things, but it would be good to have an expert pick up on and train out back habits which I don't even notice I am forming.
@@RotarySMP Can you find a mutual assistance welding buddy - you have some pretty good computer/CNC skills, find someone with welding skills, and help each other?
Those welding shots with the autodarkening lens turned out great!
The cart is also really nice! 😎
I am also pretty happy with using that lens for those shots. Thanks for watching.
“Listen, Darling! They’re welding our song!”
She lacks the fantasy to see the beauty in welding :)
Wow, quite the variety of music in this one - every interlude is like a box of chocolates - you never know what you're going to get!
It is really hard to get music right. I really struggle with it.
@@RotarySMP I actually really liked a lot of the music in this one, it's just kind of whiplash to go from folk bluegrass or relaxed jazz or cabaret to power metal (or maybe that's just rock) at the end! What's the music at 4:52? aha-music wasn't able to identify it. I especially like the folk / bluegrass stuff with unusual instruments (like the clarinet in one, and the trombone in the other) - makes it very unique, and not like the music you hear in most videos.
Shrimp. It's always gonna be shrimp...
I'm so glad that the T&C grinder I've been building for the last 5 weeks isn't going to be as heavy as your Clarkson. To video welding, I took a much more simplistic way around it and I just video it normally then in editing I overlay a solid black panel and reduce the opacity, works fairly well. You weren't kidding when you said it was going to be overly complicated, but it turned out well. 👍
I'll have to try that with an overlay in Resolve. Thanks for the tip.
@@RotarySMP You're most welcome. I use Filmora 13, but it should work the same in Resolve.
@@MyMiniHomeWorkshop Yeah, it is in there.
_At least in my imagination thats perfect_ haha, I need this on a t-shirt! Thanks for taking us along for the ride:)
Thanks for watching :)
loved the vice step up :) such a number 8 wire solution
Glad you enjoyed that ;)
Pure CO2 runs a mig weld pretty hot so you usually need to turn up the gas a bit higher than normal. However it never works as well as a proper mig gas it's more for cutting costs on production machines a little argon really helps. You now seem to be having the wire speed up to high. Just set your amps where you want them for the thickness of material and slow the wire speed down to get the height of weld or penetration you want.
Great to see the Clarkson mobile around the shop. I use a Clarkson tool holder in my mill. They are without doubt the best and most accurate tool holders you can get that only need hand tools to work with. However Carbide tooling is out and the slot drills/end mills are hard to get today and are 10 times the price.
Great Video
Thanks for the welder set up tips. I really dont want to give up the space for a second gas bottle, and mainly prefer to practice TIG, as I am never in that much of a hurry with my projects.
Remember that wire feed speed affects the heat. If the weld is too narrow and too high, then turn the wire feed up. I’ve been putting everything on wheels that can go. Not my 14” lathe or mill, but most everything else. It’s amazing how much more room you have when things can be moved around.
Hi Mel, Thanks for the tip. If you go up too high on the wire feed, you get a lot of splatter right?
Finally wheels for the clarkson ;)
Hi Luke, Thanks for motivating that. :)
Bet it feels better now on wheels
@@LCalleja Yeah, I tended to just work around it, rather than moving it out of the way properly.
Hi Mark, As always, I love watching you.
I hope you don't get hurt yourself by tripping those rollers. Please be careful at the workshop.
Thanks. Once I sell the Boley, I will be able to push the Clarkson more to the wall.
Tis a terrible obsession we suffer from! Superb work!
I usually find if i make multiples of the same part i look back at the first one and make another!!
Phil, UK
I would have, but had used up all that thick walled tubing offcut. :)
I kinda like it too.
Congratulations on making progress, Mark!
Thank you! Cheers!
Looks great! Nice metal forming/design :)
Hi Stefan, thanks for dropping by and the kind feedback.
Well, that was a fun ride! Admirable result, too. 👍 Congratulations on wiping off one more task from the board!
Hi Doric, I am enjoying knocking off a few of the long term to-do items.
@@RotarySMP Rightly so. 🧐
Ha, I laughed at the detailed plan. I've several notebooks full of little but various squares and rectangles with numbers written next to the edges.
I know I should sit down and draw up a plan, maybe even in CAD, but I just want to get stuck in and cut some metal :)
Enjoyed this fabrication and the welding honesty : thanks
Glad you enjoyed it Jake. More to come, I already started the next weld up project.
one thing i realized in my early TIG welding experiences is that everything takes less heat than you think. Everyone welds too hot as a newbie.
Thanks for the feedback Matthew.
Nice arc shots you got there. For filling holes with TIG you did it just right. Step by step to not overheat the surrounding material. If you put a piece of Aluminium or copper under the hole you can just flow the weld bead on it. Also on your first arc start there were quite a lot of sparks. Ideally there shouldn‘t be any sparks. Since it was only noticable on the first start there was probably still air in the system. Next time just give the foot pedal a tap with the torch in a safe distance to the part. That will start the post gas flow and purge the system. If you start the arc while the post flow is still runnig you will get the best possilble arc start. Especially handy when welding very delicate parts.
The very start, I forgot to clean the metal... my bad :)
I have the preflow set to 0.6 sec. Would you typically set longer?
Cool looking stand!
Thanks!
When welding gaps with tig, keep the amperage just where the metal is about to melt and add slightly more current, it allows you to pull the filler rod from one edge to the other.
Thanks for the tip Boris.
Well, what an adventure. Those wheel extensions are amazing, but I think I'd fill them in somewhow, as the rest of the machine doesn't have holes like that. Good fun though, appreciate the effort you put in to make the welding shots better. Not appreciating you derailling the measurement train with those dodgy measurements though, did my head in, lol. All good fun, thanks Mark.
Glad you enjoyed it Rick. The open arms make for a pretty compliant structure, so it evens out the load to all four wheels on my uneven floor.
Roller base turned out great! 👍👍
Thank you! Cheers!
Maybe this is a silly comment, but using the workbench to mark the center point for plotting the radius on the L-beam seemed like a great idea!!!
Thanks. It is not like I have to be careful about marking the surface :)
good job RotarySMP
Thanks a lot.
Greetings! About protecting the camera lenses, any type of transparent plastic like acrylic or PVC don't let soldering splatter stick to it. It´s what is in front of your soldering mask. Thanks for such beautiful contents in your videos.
Good point. I have some spare plastic sheet, so I will put that in from of that welding lens.
bottle of acetone next to place where I weld! one of the reasons why our life expectancy is bit shorter. not like I haven't done something like this before
I did move it away a couple of times when I noticed it too close to the heat.
32:04 That's pure _art deco_ right there, my friend 😅
Thanks for your kind feedback.
I admire your ability to work with curves. My poor engineering mind always defaults to straight lines and right angles.
Also, nice adaptation of the welding filter. Works great.
Hi Brian, thanks for the feedback. I tend to overcomplicate, but no enough to be art :)
Looks very good 👍
Thanks Ken.
That filming via the auto darkening is inspired! I was at MakersCentral today and was told about a hand held 'power feed' for TIG welding wire - kinda like manual MIG for your TIG. Feels a bit like cheating, but hey, if it works!
Hi Philip, I guess that sort of feed gun makes sense for production, but I will just practice doing it manually.
Brilliant welding camera rig.
Thank you for your courage!
Thanks for the kind feedback.
I remember there being metric threads all over my Mk1 Clarkson when I took it apart to clean it. The spindle bearings should be metric too IIRC. You'd be surprised how many older British machines use metric fixings and are made to metric dimensions, but have imperial leadscrews. My Herbert Junior grinder is the same. Even though it's from the 1940s a fair bit of it is metric, including the spindle bearings on that too as it made finding new ones a lot easier and cheaper.
It drives me nuts that you need every tool in the toolbox to adjust this machine :)
Hi there Mark, I am thinking that you should put all your settings on the tigwelder to zero except the afterflow and max weld current, all the rest you can manage with your pedal…
All the best from Stefan in Sweden
Thanks Stefan. I am already working on the next project, so I will give that a go.
I've found that a pop up tent makes for good spray booth if hung from a rafter 😊
I do really mind the wood shop getting overspray, as long as it doesn't get into all the storage.
For filling, play with the pulse settings, lower duty cycle makes the puddle more goopy (technical term), and thus easier to build on top of.
One welded 1mm half rusted steel plate (yep, you guessed it, car repair) upside down with relatively little problems. Kinda fascinating being able to manipulate a puddle of molten steel from below :P
Thanks for the tip. I need to start playing around with the pulse settings, now I have them.
Tip, if you put the camera on exposure spot metering with F22, and stay in the middle of the frame, we will see all your TIG mistakes better. 😊
Ah, answering myself, you got another working solution 👌
@@daniel635biturbo Hi Daniel. I was adding the ND (not a very strong one), and then stopping down to about F11 or F16, as you hit the diffraction limit with micro four thirds beyond that.
Good idea to try the spot meter though. I normally shot in manual exposure, with auto ISO, but really need to set up one of my custom settings for low iso, manual exposure, F11, the necessary white balance for the lens etc. Just a welding mode set up.
Still, watch tomorrows video :)
@@RotarySMP I've shot with my fullframe A7II F16 and auto ISO together with spot metering, and sice the shutter max out at 1/8000 if I remember correct, the welding glass is not needed, for exposure anyway, flying molten metal aside 😅
I'II be back, as Arnold stated.
@@daniel635biturbo I was hoping to have one camera setting cover both the visible part before welding, and the auto darkening glass cutting the light to show the puddle and arc.
I think I will still need to switch between two custom settings, as the light is not light enough, and the darken not dark enough with the autodarkening lens. Still, it works better than before, and also provides spatter protection to the front of the camera and lens.
Tig welding is proceeding well, well done.
Looks like you're starting a bit hot, to my eye. IDK how you can adjust your machine, but I like to have 'where I want to be' about half way down the pedal travel, so I can ramp right off if i need to be cooler, for whatever reason. This also gives you a little bit of time to figure out where your arc is after striking your arc initially.
This also helps when you're trying to fill a hole, if you have your minimum pedal amperage at the point where the metal is less molten, then you can sort of 'build it up' that way. I tend to start work on two sides of a hole, heat up one side, add filler, reduce power, move to the other side, increase heat, add filler.
As you said, just need to keep an eye on your 'heatsoak' so you're not over heating the material. Go slowly and keep an eye out for things, always to venture too cold than too hot, imo.
Otherwise looking great, when you have the settings down at the beginning things are looking awesome!
Thanks for your detailed feedback. I still dont have a good feeling for the foot pedal's current setting. It feels like it doesnt reduce the current much, untill right back where it switches off.
@@RotarySMP Hmm! You'll have to do some experimentation then! Maybe setting the total current a little lower?
@@prosen426 I was on max 135A to start with, but reset that lower to 105A once I burnt that hole.
love it! i need to make stands for so much equipment. Wheels are a great idea. i have no idea of the layout yet so it's be good to have stuff movable.
I still have a couple more stands to make as well.
this is exactly how I plan my projects too
It is more fun like this.
Have you considered changing ALL of the bolts on this thing to match? You have a CNC that should make the job super-easy.
Nah, that would be too much work, for too little return.
@@RotarySMP Yeah, but that's what we do. We put hours, or even days, of work into a part, and using more material usually, than it would've cost to go buy it. That's what makes it fun, lol.
I did a similar caster add on to an old Delta drill press but I kept the casters more under the
base to minimize the stick out and overall footprint. I can access all of the caster locks.
I like your base frame construction but I think those standoff are a bit much.
The Clarkson is a very top heavy machine. If I put the casters under it, it would have raised it even higher. My floor has a slope to the garage door, and I was concerned of it it tipping, without a wide stance. It was a compromise.
I’m welding with co2 with my Sherman MIG, had similar problem at first but once I got the voltage and feed right I gave it less co2 then the welds started to be “lower” and melted in more in the material :)
Thanks for the info. I'll try that when I get that bottle refilled.
Curves look really nice. I’ve found bigger castor wheels cope with uneven ground better 😀
Hi Julia, it was a bit of a trade off as bigger casters would have made the stance even wider. At least there are no tiles in the garage.
@@RotarySMP True I think I moved my wheels to fit on the long side of my pantograph rather than the corner it made it a bit more stable but the top still overhangs a lot so you have to be cautious moving it.
Embracing your inner @TheMetalist .
Nice work. I’m no welder but you seem to be getting more comfortable with it. With such an uneven floor would a 3 wheeled stand be more stable? It would be a difficult design but I’m sure it could be done.
A three wheeled stand would be more stable, but less resistance to getting knocked over. The Clarkson is a top heavy beast, and I would hate to have it fall due to too narrow stance. If it rocks when I use it, I'll just knock a wedge in under one side.
Awesome welding video setup 👍
Glad you enjoyed it.
very nice. i need to do the same for my clarkson.. a real pain to move
Yeah, I am glad I did that. The Clarkson is light enough to be man handled around, but heavy and unstable enough for it to be a bad idea :)
Nice welds are for those who weld. They didn't snap off when you stood it up so it seens the welds are spot on. I'll accept a welded part from you but I'll do my own soldering thanks😁
What's the deal with the intro fan? Corrosion? Wear? Jetworm?
I am not sure what caused that deformation, maybe a hail stone?
Hi Mark very stylish looking dolly👍 have you considered adding a Floor Lock 5th leg that presses against the floor, forming more of a tripod.
That auto filter for the welding camera works very well! I assume that a permanent version will be the subject of a future video.
I see that my speculation about how stable the jaws on the new/old vice was accurate, rock solid.
Finally regarding the C02 do you have a local paintball pro shop? might be an additional source assuming that its clean enough.
Hi Steve, I was pleasantly surprised that it is more stable than I feared. Their are no real loads when tool grinding, so I'll see whether it bothers me and needs and added stability. Knowing me, that would be a simple wedge. :)
I have been thinking of 3D printing a frame for that welding lens, as it could mount on the 15mm rails which mount the external battery.
Paintball is not really a thing over here.
I put a cheater lens in my helmet and I recommend everyone even if you don't wear glasses to get one. Having that weld look bigger makes it far easier to see what you are doing. As for actual wire speed... Don't worry about what the actual speed and voltage is as you won't be able to use the same settings on two different machines. Just start with their recommended settings and adjust to see what works for you.
One of the big things to deal with on your mig settings is where you are welding. If you are welding on a table it's going to screw up your settings and require much more heat. Because of that I try to weld as little with the metal in contact with a table. This is also how youtubers make it look so easy to weld thin steel. Well yeah it's easy on a table that's sucking the heat out, try that in free air like us doing body work and find out how hard it really can be. Using Co2 is finnicky especially on thinner steel.
Filling the holes with tig is similar to mig. Heat pointed toward the heaviest metal and add to it. But don't take my word for it I am so out of practice it's not even funny. A friend of mine worked with Jody when he was still working at the airline and said he really is as good as he looks on youtube.
Oh and yeah my projects are not planned they develop as they are built. My rotisserie is evidence of that...
We didn't get that cool view of Istanbul when we were there on our way to Athens last year. (Just over a year ago now) I'm used to DFW which is a massive airport but Istanbul is on another level. May be going through there again with the better half in september. Ticket prices are really low even for peak season as in like half price of usual so we are watching september pricing as our airline cut back their season flying to ATH even more due to management dumping all their big planes during the pandamonium assuming all the ordered 787s would magically show up.
Recommended settings... that is a joke, from a manufacturer who doesn't really do a manual :)
IST is a very modern airport. I think the flight to Ankara was 50% taxi time and 50% air time :)
@@RotarySMP Yeah IST brings new meaning to the complaints about end around taxiways and wow is it way lower than the runway. I haven't ever had to look up that high to see a runway from a plane anywhere else. Course here in the US the controllers are having everyone play chicken cross the road in front of aircraft with takeoff clearance. ATC is really scary here now.
@@theinfernalcraftsman Ouch, that sound like a serious pucker factor as you are cleared to cross.
@@RotarySMP Yes. It's been happening allot here. Victor over at Vasavaition has been putting most of them on his channel lately as well. The public is worried about boeing planes while those that know better are worried about ATC.
9:56 start at the most massive point, in this case the outside ☺️
Thanks. I guess I know to do that, but sometime forget :)
that hole at 9:35 -- since you have another edge to burn together still up to that tack, i would have welded that seam shut from the tack out towards the hole and then seen where the two beads align. lay beads along the perimeter until you get the hole closed up enough to glob some filler all the way across the void, then do more beads or a leveling pass across the glob to level it out. Be mindful of heat input and go drink some coffee while you're waiting for it to cool off, if need be. I like to tap the pedal to get post-flow going and wash the part with more argon usually.
what you did got it closed up, and yes, grinders are your friend. I would have probably gone over the high stuff and tried to walk some of the material over to the remaining joint leading up to the tack
that 1mm gap is a good gap filling practice, IMO. you can tack the two edges then burn in the joint with just filler rod in your hand. great practice of pushing more rod to keep the edges from burning away
Thanks for your tips Paul. I did some more TIG practice today.
I really like the lines on the Clarkson, and the curvy caster design looks great. Think you'll ever repaint the Clarkson? Jody @ WeldingTipsAndTricks has a lot of really good info. I enjoy his videos, and he's got those arc shots down to an art.
Hi JC,
I will probably scrape in the ways of the Clarkson at some stage as they are pretty worn. I would only do that at the same time as adding effective way covers to keep the grit at bay. I also need to replace the lead screw and nut, as I dont think it is original. It has a RH thread, so turns opposite to infeed vrs all other machines I have ever used.
I wont repaint it, as the current paint is in pretty good condition.
06:20 The hands of people who remove old cobwebs. 😉 Nice Video!
0:15 Is the rotor still OK?
Hungry spider :)
I am not sure whether that fan bladed needed the dent blended out, or whether it was allowable damage within limits. My colleague was looking into that.
When i make something that fits into another part...i use a shim between the parts that allows a tight fit but with enough oversize to allow removal or installation easier.... making them perfectly fitting isn't important if you plan to take them apart... yeah you can hammer them on or off..but slipping them on and off without force is much better...shim size is dependant on what you prefer...just use enough to get that gap you like..1/2 of gap width shims all around will get you a snug perfect fit...
🇨🇦🤓🤟
To my shame, I thought I was doing that Gary. I used cardboard around those angle iron pieces to shim them out from the base, but being upside down, once I had tacked it up, I noticed the shims had already fallen out on the floor. Duh! :)
@@RotarySMP
tape 😉
@@garymallard4699 Yeah, I'll use that on the next project (already started ;)
Did you do any calculations on this support? It looks to light from where I’m sitting… If you bump into something I think it will bend or brake. The circular interfaces between wheel cup and machine base are the problem I think. But nice journey and I like watching your progress. Thank you and all the best, Job
I didn't, and it is a somewhat compliant structure, as the four casters all sit on the rather uneven floor. I they do deform, the next mod would be to close off the open round stand offs.
What a Smith and welders do is that they put a peace of brass or copper on the backside of the weld since it will not stick to it ( unless you do something completely wrong )
Thanks for the tip.
@@RotarySMP your welcome m8
Nice!
Thanks.
Nice job... it seem like the man cave is getting turned into a bat cave... =D When are you starting on the utility belt?
Thanks Mike :) No time soon.
I highly recommend 75% Ar/25% CO2 for welding gas. It'll be a lot less splattery than 100% CO2.
I really dont want to give up the space (and €€€) for a second gas bottle. While MIG is probably more practical for the sort of projects I do, I like TIG more, and want to keep practicing it.
My bonus dad have various sizes of copper slugs, he says it’s faster to just clamp that copper to the backside of the hole because what he welds won’t stick to the copper.
Don’t know if that helps 😅
Thanks for the tip. I'll try that next time.
I thought you had a thing for making round metal parts? Btw, what a sensible idea to mix your own colour. Ive been wading through RAL 7000 series, but Clarkson might have been BS I suppose..
I don't over think that. The paint looked very different on the outside vs those parts coverd by other components. Once it dried, my mix is a bit darker and less blue, but good enough.
Welds are looking great! Have you ever tried flux core in your MIG?
Hi Brian, once, about 30 years ago, my dad had a really crappy little flux core. It is a pretty messy process. If I am going for messy, I can just use sticks :)
That`s exactly how you tig close a hole, other than welding in a chunk that mostly fills out the hole if it`s big enough... I usually just crank down the amps, tack a whole bunch of small globs and then return to proper amps and re-consolidate the whole section... It sinks the material in, removing the need for the grinder(for the most part), and it`s all you can do really... And yeah, stuffing filler to fill out a crack is a good method... I do it when i have to... The issue is that the loose filler can easily get sucked in by the arc, jumping at your tungsten, or at least that is what happens to me sometimes... If it`s loose, it has the tendency to move towards the tungsten when caught by the arc... Results in some major q-tipping of the electrode when it happens...
Also, the issue with mig feeding can be due to the liner within the wire guide cable... You have a spring with a liner... The wire goes through it to the torch opening... Sometimes the liner gets cooked if overheated, sometimes it just wears down and forms a clog which drags against the wire... If you have issues with wire feeding, other than the feed mech itself, it could be caused by the wire guide liner... Just a heads up for future reference...
Also, i really hope you cleaned off and greased those machined surfaces of the componentry that were touching the floor while taken apart... I generally always use cardboard to rest parts on... Floor is just way too rough and abrasive for precision eq. and it`s parts...
Otherwise, damn nice work!
All the best and kind regards!
Steuss
Hi Steuss. Yeah, I learned the hard way that TIG magnetically pulls in short light bits of wire :)
I doubt that MIG liner has issues, as it is a new gun, and has only done the few minutes of welding in those two videos.
The machined parts are in the top casting, which I took off. The matching machined pads on the grinding head never went to the ground, I put it on a wooden furniture skate board.
Cheers,
Mark
@@RotarySMP Damn good, i didn`t notice the padding... It would have been a sin otherwise...
Regarding the tig magnetism, yeah, that fucked me over quite a few times, but the laywire can still be a good technique, i would suggest tacking the laywire where your weld will end, so it`s held firm and you pass over that tack when you reach the end...
For mig, as i said, it just came to mind and i wanted to share it for future reference, also, you can burn up a new gun just as easily as you can an old one... You just overheat it enough... Wear is one thing, but a major glob of weld in the cup and prolonged use before that can do harm the first time you connect the torch...
Best regards!
I'd imagine the pedestal spider lives largely on a diet of tinworm.
Good one. :)
The wheels on the stand, could you simply grind off the extra bit that lowers down when you lock the wheels?
I could, but this way, they all still work as designed.
Four cup holders, ready for seasoning?
Thanks :)
Funny, you mention welding on a nuclear reactor. A friend, back in the 80's, was a welder in a nuclear plant, full pressure/structural/ et al tickets. Was not allowed to weld a crack, in a Continental O 470 oil pan!!! Yet he could weld up a nuclear pressure system????
Did he have the certification for porous, old, oily aluminium welding :)
@@RotarySMP Continental O-470 engine for Cessna 180 has a stamped steel oil pan. The TIG weld, was beautiful.
Best wishes.
Check the transformers that feed your homes electricity, this could affect your welding.
The grid here in Austria is very solid. I have 400V three phase at the gate, with both 400V 3Ph and 230 single phase circuits in the house. I doubt there is any issue with the mains feed.
You comment on your welds, but there still a lot better than mine :)
Thanks Alan. The easy welds, where the position is comfortable and they are flat are getting better, but as soon as i get out of position, it turns to custard. :)
@@RotarySMP Like anything the more you do it, the better you get. I don't weld enough so it's like starting again every time :)
stop moving your torch so fast. give the heat a chance to get into that relatively thick steel. just slow your roll a little. love your videos btw. i use flux core wire for the majority of my heavy welds. i only use gas on the really thin stuff or i tig it if it needs to be a nice weld but if im just grinding it off anyway, i flux core it. gas is expensive and im a cheap ass i guess.
Thanks for the tip. I have already started on the next welding project, so watch this space.
You are supposed to weld those casters on - right through the zink coating! Why would they ever need changing? ... at least according to way too many UA-cam creators.
I could see your welds improve just through this video. Keep up the practice.
Thanks. I must confess, I welded the same casters onto the welder frame :/
if you accept constructive criticism :) there is a design issue that might start bothering you soon. - casters are sticking out too much IMO. First, you will start tripping over it , Second, thay will sag. Otherwise - nice job as usual :) I liked you colours mixing approach. Also - how are you managing with CO2 for MIG ? It might be cheaper alternative to argone.
The Clarkson is a very top heavy machine, and needs this broad base to be stable on wheels. Time will tell whether the stand offs deform over time. If the do I would have to reinforce them.
I have been trying out MIG with the CO2 from a soda stream bottle. I find it pretty splattery, it consumes the small gas bottle pretty fast, and it is challenging to find good settings.
Try spot weld setting or pulse at 1sec
Good point Chris, I haven't played around with the spot or pulse functions yet.
I struggle sometimes trying to work out if the mig needs more volts or more amps. I know volts will increase the heat but I don’t know how to gauge how much wire speed is needed.
You and me both :)
@@RotarySMP well if you ever do work it out please squeeze it into a future video. You’re good with explanations so I’m keen to hear. Cheers
Try lean the mig over a bit more bro, push the weld. 10-15 degrees.
Thanks for that feedback. I appreciate that.
Fun fact, a lot of nuclear plumbing is brazed or silver-soldered.
Thanks Jim. I guess that makes sense. You can get a really perfect join like that.
There's a aphorism in woodwork that everybody has a certain number of BAD dovetail joints in them, and you just have to get them out.
It may well be the same with welds.
Thanks Paul. I have plenty of both :)
8:25 Luke, I am your father! 💀
Better the darth vader helmet than the Minion welding helmet :)
9:04 how about a 3D printed mount?
Watch this space. :)
👍👍😎👍👍
Hi Joel. Thanks.
It's 'spatter', old chap. Think of Christmas.......No L.
Thanks. I never noticed that. :)
That new wleding visor reminds me of Lord Binhead (en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lord_Buckethead)
:)
That is pretty funny. Thanks for that Matt.
Je pense que tu should just pick a system and bleib dabei.
That was a good one :)
You are living in the civilized part of the world. We measure metric, please …
I work in aviation. Airliners still have a lot of imperial. But this is a old british grinder, so it is not metric.
hey, there is not such thing as over complex, over complicated and least of all over built in the realm of fabricating stuff as a hobby. specially when one is supposed to keep those fabrication muscles in shape.
Thanks Tobias. It is kind of fun doing it like this.