The rear moving jaw design means that something really big and heavy can be out in the vice, and be totally over the workbench to be pounded on or drilled etc etc. Also, the object between jaws will sit on the vices solid body and the vice can be opened very wide, almost as wide as its whole body length. The modern vice with the moving front jaw is more versatile because generally the jaws are in front of the benchtop and you can clamp objects of weird shapes and long thin parts hanging off the bench. But there is a much smaller opening range and the further you open it the less strong and less stable it gets. So generally, the German style is good for clamping blocky heavy objects, especially if part of a machining setup like clamped on a large milling machine etc. Moving front jaw styles are more versatile, clamping lighter objects hanging off the front of a bench for hand working etc. I have a 45 degree vice that can clamp long stock vertically or horizontally, but my main work vice is a combo flat jaws plus pipe jaws which is fully rotating, so it can clamp anything off the front of the bench and at any angle (but with some loss of rigidity). Imdont have a large moving rear jaw vice, but if you think about it all the small drill press and milling vices are moving rear jaw, for the same benefits. 🙂
@@TlD-dg6ug I've never seen that type. Normally there is a solid base and a fixed jaw at one end, then a sliding jaw which slides along the base. Basically like RotarySMP's new vice in the video.
- not generically 'German"" (nor a machinists vise) but the vises of this design.... so on.... Specifically designed not for clamping large jobs in front of a bench edge but over the pivot - with parallel jaws. More or less a large engravers vise.
As a german, this is how I learned it: A vise with a back opening jaw is reffered to as a machinists/toolmakers/mechanics vise, usually is made of cast steel, and is built much more heavily. They are not as versatile as the other type of vise, but are much more accurate and stable. They were meant for precise bench work, like filing dies, or working on complex assemblies. We also have vises with front opening jaws, those are usually called a smiths/ironworkers vise, they are usually made from forgings, are not as precise, but can handle much more abuse. They are meant for heavy work like chipping, bending, etc.
@@RotarySMP Thanks 👍🏻 I feel honored 😅 One quick addendum: I've seen some people say its for supporting heavy work pieces. Note: Please *do not* rest heavy work pieces on your vises spindle, it will bend it and damage the vise. These Leinen pattern vises can hold heavy parts, I've used them to file dies and punches that I had to lower into the vise with the shops crane, but never rest them on the spindle.
@@hiha2108 Sorry, yeah, the east german tool maker vises were cast steel, I assumed Leinen also used cast steel, but turns out they use basic grey cast iron. Point still stands tho
east german tool maker vises ... good craftsmanship, personally, prefer the rigidity of this design. Seems to me, for resting on the 'spindle', as long as 1" of it were in the mating jaw, it would take pretty severe force to bend it...assuming, of course that those were mated machine surfaces.
I liked the cleanup of the machine used to make the holes in the jaws, most other youtubers don't include stuff like that and so I can't appreciate how much effort goes into cleanup and maintenance of machinery.
It's a small thing, but I was very happy to see you were able to remove the broken screw so easily. Score one for the Good Guys! Beautiful restoration of a very nice vise, just another example of you taking the time to do things well.
Love your tenacity and willingness to show your mistakes. Thanks for doing that. Nothing like spilling a can of paint and still being reminded of it for years to come as you see portions of it on your other tools! Who hasn't done that to some degree, let's be honest.
I just want to say that the number of setbacks, and "this didn't go how I wanted" events in this video matches my experience IRL. Good on you for not seeming phased by it, where as I'd have turned off the workshop light and not returned for a month.
I was brought here by the algorithm, total newcommer I watch the thing and I'm saying to myself this guy has sort of "This Old Tony" vibe and then the original fully functionning MAHO comes on the stage! It really made my day. Nice work with the vise BTW. Cheers to ThisOldTony! You got my subscribing and I'm off to explore your other vids...
Welcome. I hope you enjoy my other videos as well. Tony contacted me about his lube unit on the Maho a couple of years ago, and I gave him some tips on it. He kindly gave the channel a shout out in one of his last Maho videos. Boy did that light up my channel :)
: Well - what is the problem with paint in a can? (joking) - One can get any paint in a can (custom filled cans)... (even reusable cans which can be filled with a small shot of paint in one's own workshop... (I understand the sentiment, but the art is in the execution not the tools.) (Jacquard - YouCAN could even be a handy refillable AP device - even a tubeless valve stem can be used to recharge (with dry air) any can.) - hmmm
I guess what you lose in the workshop when things go wrong you make up in the video edit - really enjoyable content and a fine example of perseverence, optimism, skill and craftsmanship. Thanks Mark, always learning with you.
I've never seen your channel before, and I was enthralled by all 46+ minutes of this. What an amazing job you did. I shall be subscribing and watching more of your stuff.
Absolutely superior job. We had 8 of those vises in the shop at the Max Planck Institute where I spent 12 years of my scientific career in many years ago. Thanks for letting us take a look at your masterful job.
A German would ask, "Why do everyone else's vises open the wrong way?" Maybe it's so that as the jaw is opened, the centre of mass of the vise and workpiece move inboard instead of outboard. Better when one is working with a wobbly bench.
Thanks for taking a stab at that Brian. The other way means you can locate the back jaw above the edge of the bench, and can clamp long parts sticking, up to the max jaw opening. Here that is limited.
In fact, there is an other common German vise, the Heuer Front, that opens to the front. But this was more for fabrication shops. The Leinen was more for the tool and die shop. This style is even called a toolmakers vice.
Nice video! @15:28 it is mentioned that Argon has higher mass than CO2. That's not correct i am afraid: Ar is element 18 with atomic mass 40, C and O are 6 and 8 with masses 12 and 16. CO2 has molecular mass of12+2*16=44. So pretty close to each other, with Argon slightly below.
I really like these vises with the fixed front jaw and this one turned out great! Bummer about the welding spots but on the other hand that's an opportunity for trying TIG brazing should they ever break lose.
Precise layout is over-rated LMFAO - love it! Briliiant work BTW - the end result is likely better than they ever were out of the OEM factory and the Germans can be fussy.
Pretty restoration! thank you very much for sharing. I did almost the same work, two years before, with a similar vise, some kilograms heavier and some decades older (!). I mounted it on a metal bench, reinforced with heavy Π profiles. Think about, if you apply a lot of force in the tightening, the wooden bench may have a problem! It may even break.😊
Thanks for your kind feedback. This bench is only temporary (in it's fourth year :) I have a nice slab of thick ply, and will weld up a frame for that new bench.
dunno, but seemed like a good paint job on the floor.. =D I got me a new tool - a break/shear/roller and got it mounted in the garage this weekend. cut a bit of sheet metal... fun times. Happy Sunday!
Another excellent instalment! Production quality is better than ever, as are the blunders! I have always appreciated how you treat your mistakes as merely another step in the process. No drama, no fuss, just get over it and move on. When I screw up I have to fight the urge to curl up in a corner for a few hours - though I suppose could be doing that off camera. 🤔 If you do, best keep it a secret, okay?
Did you do any surface quality work on the sliding dovetails, for smooth operation? And have you considered (since you're well set up to do the work) fitting a thrust bearing for the main screw? It slightly reduces the jaw opening, but gives easier handle spinning.
Hi Paul. No, the sliding ways were in really nice condition (with a little staining). Since they had no scoring all galling, and there is no gib to take up slop, I didn't want to scrape and add clearance. I kind of like a bit of resistance on the handle. This vise has a nice feel.
I bought a used vice which is apart from that it is with a "K&K" instead of "Leinen" inscription the very same vice. You did such a wonderful job with the restauration. I once bough a set of profiled aluminium angles for round stock, they attach to my original steel jaws with embedded magnets. I just don't have any idea where as that was a over a decade ago.
I wonder why no one ever adds a sacrificial, hardened steel wear plate to the anvil surfaces. The time you spent trying to remove the pits and scratches would have been better spent attaching a thickness of hardened 4140 steel with flat head screws. I like the idea so much, I'm going to do that with my homely vise! (note to self: drill the mounting holes in the plate BEFORE hardening!) Great video!
Another viewer also made that suggestion. Especially to drill and tap blind holes in from the bottom of the hardened anvil, and mount with counter sunk screws up from below. It would a good idea, and I wish I had thought of it.
3/5/24..Wow! Most enjoyable to watch & listen on this great restoration of your LINEN Bench Vice. Am 1st time viewer, just 'flipping' along YT when your channel poped up. Great! Impressed with your very well equiped shop & your excellent skills not only as technician but also as educator via your commentary...& sense of humor😂 Hope to catch another episode very soon. Stay safe & carry on! Best wishes fron New Orleans area 🇺🇸
"I don't want to go overboard" Far too late for that!! What a superb result! You can mig with pure argon, most don't because of the cost. Argoshield 5 is argon with 5% CO2 and 2% Oxy, When I was doing some work for a hole in the wall garage, we migged with pure CO2 pub gas bottles, TBH the difference was not really noticable, and I have had dodgy argoshield bottles in the past that just didn't seem to weld right! I have a mate in Canada who bought a small bench lathe in the UK and had it shipped to me for boxing up and export. Wnen I got it I noticed immediately that the cross slide handwheel was anticlockwise for in and clockwise for out! Cannot remember the make but I warned him about it. The crash potential of that is enormous!! Luckily all my lathes work the same way! Really enjoyed watching that! I am back at work and released my latest YT video on Saturday,the first for nearly three months! Phil Phil Whitley on YT "My Week this Week"
Hi Phil, Thanks for the tips on shielding gas. I need to get my CO2 refilled and try it again. Someone in the past must have replaced the lead screw on my Clarkson, for a RH one, so it is clockwise out. Drives me nuts. Sooner or later I need to make a new one, and also put a scale on it.
The only thing even more advanced if you have a holder that enables you to adjust the height of the vise. Leinen make high quality vices, and I am glad to see you had done a good job at its renovation.
First time viewer here, from Croatia. Until you mentioned NZ I thought you were an Englishman expat living in Germany or somewhere else in Europe. As if you bought everything from Bauhaus. Wisent, Proxxon, Einhell... Even the vise itself, I occasionally see these excellent old Leinen vises on our local version of Craigslist. Loved the video. Subscribed!
Ahh the good old Leinen vice. I have very fond memories about that vice. 1.) I went through an apprenticeship as a tool and die maker in the late 1970s. The vices we had? You guessed correctly, Leinen. 2.) In my home shop (I make knives as a hobby) I have two Leinen. A large 125 mm and small clock makers vice. 3) The original maker, Boley and Leinen is/was located in mx hometown.
Hi! new guy here. Firstly, quite a restoration job. Much love and attention went into this. And the vice came out really nice with the copper against the sage (green) colour. As for the bench, my suggestion is to add some cross-bracing on the sides and back. Sturdier structure. Once levelled and against a wall, screw it to the wall for retaining against any coupling effort - like when you were trying to remove the crown nut. Of course, adding a plywood deck would also help. Have a 3"' vice of that type which I'll eventually get to re-model as to slide along the front of the bench (it isn't swivel). I use brass jaws on all my workbench vices. I found copper is too soft and deforms easily; but holds great.
Welcome to my channel. my little steel welding bench is left free standing so I can move it out intothe room and work around it. The wooden bench is just a temporary one (we know what temporary means), as I have a nice thick slab of ply wood for the permanent bench lurking (ageing?) behind the Boley lathe. Just need to make up a frame for it. Future project for sure.
Very nice resto, I enjoyed a lot the fact you showed the mishaps and mistakes, very nice to see what a real shop process is all about. That said, in my humble opinion you should put "a solid and anchored working bench" on your list 😅
Absolutely. I even have a nice slab of thick beech plywood lurking behind the Boley lathe as a top. This is just a temporary bench made from an old door. In it's fifth yea of temporary use :)
A brand new subsciber here. I have a collection of vises, and have enjoyed watching you revive this one, you've done a great job. I do thing that a vise of that size is worthy of being fitted to an equally substantial bench though, and one which is secured to the wall and floor. I find it infuriating when a vise holds the job, but the whole bench starts moving when you start putting some heavy duty effort into trying undo some parts clamped in a vise. Many thanks David in the UK.
Hi, i’m watching since you started your channel, before the MAHO arrived. Awesome work with everything you are doing. Very cool subjects, very entertaining presented and the dry typical NZ humor mixed with sarcasm and irony that can be found in Austria, Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg . But one big question and i guess request i have! WHEN ARE YOU BUILDING A AUTOMATIC TOOLCHANGER FOR THE MAHO ?????????
Thanks for your kind feedback. I kind of doubt I will do an ATC on the Maho. I tend to do mostly one off type jobs, where the time savings of an ATC seem insignificant in the project .
A really cracking result in the end. I sometimes get the "negative work coefficient" fixing vintage electronics test gear, like you did here: you gain a vice, but the casualty list includes the heat treat oven, bandsaw gear box, a tin of paint and part of the floor.
@@LCallejaIf we are lucky, somebody who knows will tell us. Check Kleineanzeigen for "schraubstock drehteller" There are also vertical lift devices for those vises. www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/hoehenverstellung-leinen-schraubstock-120mm/2693465827-84-19638
@@RotarySMP While you are at it, I heard that the aviation industry is looking for somebody with real skinny arms. More specifically the right man should fit between a vice swivel plate and vice body. What the job pays, they didn't say.
@@joenicotera2991I figured it unlikely that you would need to remove that split pin with the vise installed, but having worked on British A/C in the training school, it was not such an unreasonable task :)
Im new to your channel and was wondering what top coat color that was. Im not qiite sure what other videos youve used it in but ill try to find them. Awesome job by the way
Excelent job mate, Im not sure I could give away that many hours of my life for a workshop vice but that says more about me than it says about you, a preheat of the casting and the correct electrodes plus peening may have helped with the welds Realy good Work ! I HAVE SEVERE MILL ENVY 😊
A very enjoyable video, great work with the vice! Many thanks for the work you put into the video! A good vice is very often underestimated and makes the job so much easier.
I live in Germany and have never seen this type of Vise. I'm not saying they don't exist for specialist purposes, but most vises sold in shops and DIY superstores are the conventional type we all know.
You just look at the wrong places. Modern front opening, forged and welded steel vises are obviously everywhere now because that is what is made and sold since it's cheaper (nowadays) and easier to make. That said, you can still buy back opening cast iron parallel vises new if you look for them online, though they are a dying "art". The classifieds are full of them, though and you can get a good 100 - 150mm jaw width one for a good price and if you grew up with the back opening kind it's really the thing to go for😃.
This was an excellent video, Mark. The length was about perfect, the content was great, and the music had a cool late 60's vibe to it. Have you been following Abom79's Fireball Tool Hard Tail Vise build? That'd be a nice vise to have, assuming one had a workshop large enough for a full size Fireball Tool fixture table to support it.
I would really, deeply, love it if you made a video explaining about your paint spraying technique. It's something I know very little about, and you get such smashing results. I'd like to know about the whole process, gun type, pressure, adjustments of the gun, dilution of the paint, paint types, clean up etc. The works. Is that something you might cover at some point in the future? Anyway, thanks for another fascinating vid!
Hi Dave,Thanks for the idea. I'll do that next time I paint, but I think you are putting too much trust in my technique. A lot of the art of painting is choosing the camera angles which hide the runs, sags, and dust in the finish :)
You said Argon had a much higher molecular mass than carbon dioxide in the welding gas mixing section. Argon's atomic mass is ~40g/mol and carbon dioxide's molecular weight is about 44 g/mol (12 from carbon and 16x2 from oxygen). I don't have welding experience (just chemistry) but did you mean something else?
Thanks for checking that. I guess I big time confused the atomic mass with the molecular mass. So If I want 75:25 Ar:Co2, a mix of about 15l/m Ar with 5l/CO2 should be about right?
@@RotarySMPYeah, I think the math works out to about 2.73:1 -> Ar:Co2 for a 75:25 mixture but just taking the 3:1 would be close enough for most things.
Nice work. I have the same vise rusting somewhere in a corner, thx for the restoration tutorial. And for answering the same question that came up to me, when I found it. :)
They were. I peeled it off at the end. You just didn't see it, as the first undercoat layer I didn't film. Tt was just before I went to NZ for a month, and didn't want things rusting in that time. My daughter taped up all the machined surfaces, and I gave everyting a light undercoat. From there, the video shows everything one color.
Always fun finding a castle nut missing split pin. It means it was either never put in originally, or someone took it out and found they lacked the ability to remove the nut (like this example) and figured putting a new pin in was pointless.
Normally right Matt. In this case, Bastel stripped it when he got it, to check it had no cracks. Since he knew I was going to restore it, he just put it back together without the split piun.
Trivia. My mentor visiting a major Japanese manufacturing plant in Japan in the early 1950s that made gears. The entire factory was two buildings. One equipped with several dozen carbide cutting torches and steel stock. The second a vast warehouse lined with work benches over 100 feet long. About 200 work stations each equipped with files, templates and a vice. That was it. Torches, files and vices, the entire set of tools.
@@RotarySMPI often recall seeing a hollow wooden ball about 10 inches across. About 100 exquisite Hindu pantheon figures meticulously carved into it with many small spaces revealing the inside of the ball. Looking closer, the figures are all three dimensional, the insides all carved through the little spaces. The inner carvings as perfect as the outside. Somebody's life work? Examining closely, it's a solid ball from a single piece of wood. No seams or joints.
Watching you trying to temove rust with electrolysis makes me wonder if you have ever tried citric acid. You can get it very cheaply as descaler in well sorted supermarkets here in germany (Kaufland, Globus etc.) its not only super effective at removing scale, but also really good at removing rust. A few tablespoons of Citric acid in a few liters of warm or hot water and most rust is gone in one or two hours. Might want to give that a try next time!
@@RotarySMP Nice video now that I have watched it! The thrust bearing helps unscrewing the vice easily if you tighten it down very hard and it is easier to apply more Force.
Lovely resto Mr SMP, thanks for the video. I've not seen you do the four way split screen before, looked good. The stop motion assembly was great too. Commiserations on your heat treat oven, hopefully you can reuse all the metalwork and electronics. I know you had trouble getting hold of fire bricks before, any change on that now? I have a suggestion for your whiteboard list: How about a new bench under that vice? I'm thinking of much thicker wood, much heavier construction. = Heather.
Hi Heather. Good spotting. I already have the thick ply for the bench top hiding behind the Boley. I just need to get organised and make some legs for it. I found a vender in Germany how has the aerated firebricks, so a new oven is certainly on the cards. I have been playing around a bit with multi pane split screens on other videos, as it is a good way to hide the missing audio from slo-mo clips :)
Thanks, I enjoyed it. It goes faster than you think. It is a bit awkward having large castings, so things jump off the table into position, as I couldn't do intermediate positions.
That is a really cool and interesting looking vise. Having a strong vise in the shop makes working on things so much easier. I have a 5" Wilton bullet vise that I restored a couple of years ago. I still want to make soft jaws for it.
I saw Clickspring a few years ago did case hardening with carbon flour mix and sealed in a clay crucibal, his was patterned from the iron age, try that in your gas forge maybe?
Can attest to those magnesium alloy cases dissolving. One into the ocean by me years ago, and when recovered the engine had rings of bolts held in place with locking wires, the casings having dissolved away from around them. My boss at the time was the base photographer, among his other tasks. He had a few albums, and these were in there.
At about 15:30 you say that argon has a much higher mass than carbon dioxide, but the atomic weight of Ar is 40 and carbon dioxide is 12+16+16 = 44. I don't see how a 10% difference in atomic/molecular weights counts as much higher mass, especially since carbon dioxide is the heavier gas.
Thanks Bret. I screwed that up completely. I was thinking the average mass of the atoms rather than the combined mass of the molecule. My chem lecturer is probably rotating!
Came here by accident on a Sunday evening & heard the oh so recognizable Kiwi accent that made me stay & confirmed New Zealand connections with the "Bog" body filler . Subscribed
Got the same type Leinen vise at work, really nice and solid vise, only downside is that you can't really put anything that goes down in it, due to the beefy casting and screw beneath the jaws
"four inch input vice on the idge of my welding binch" What's that accent called? P.s. New Zealand? Where's the old one? P.p.s apparently Zeeland is a dutch province, and dutch were known sea explorers so I'm not surprized if they named your country.
What kind of paint did you use for this restoration? I have an old Wilton Vice, made in Chicago IL., USA (probably late 1940's to mid 1950's) that was restored prior to me buying it. Every time I bump it with anything, the paint chips off. It seems like there is no real adhesion between the paint and the metal.
28:24 no worries, if you really want to see somebody go overboard on a vice, watch Abom's vice build 😅 Your endresult looks really nice. And hey, at least no broken endmill this time!
They are certainly a standard accessory. It seems to me a murphy's law issue. Whenever I approach the Clarkson with a task, I need to either remove or install that extension. It is a bit of a PITA as the extension has a wrenching flat, but the spindle doesn't
Very nice vise! They give full support like a milling machine vise (at least one of which every serious mechanic should own even if you don't have a milling machine!). As for heavy hammering etc in any vise but a blacksmith's vise while blacksmithing I learnt long ago there is almost always a better way to move metal than maximum bashing on cold parts.
I bought a Polish made vise for $2 in the US. I was made in Poland and has movable rear jaw. It has a jib on one side of the jaw slide to take out slop. The jib adjuster was missing when I bought it so the jaw just fell off. Turned out to be a beautiful wise.
Hmm, I thought I commented already, but I guess it disappeared into the aether. Anyways, I will just retype what I wrote: Great restoration! Love the classic paint color on the part. As for case hardening, I use a pure graphite induction crucible placed inside a ceramic jacket crucible. These come in a set on Amazon and eBay meant for induction furnaces. I put charcoal and baking soda inside the crucible along with the part then cover with plaster. I usually run at 950C as well. Hopefully these tips can help. The crucible configuration is much more resilient and can be used multiple times, though only for relatively small parts.
Thanks Roman. I have some clay gaphite crucibles for casting, but those jaws are pretty long. I was not planning to use the uncontrolled heat of gas. Need to make a new oven.
From my understanding, the German vise is designed to keep your work further back and over the bench instead of your work piece extending out past the edge of the bench. I figure it distributes the load/force into the table differently...
![Why Did They Stop Making These? [Restoration]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/gh0SV8aPnMU/mqdefault.jpg)
The rear moving jaw design means that something really big and heavy can be out in the vice, and be totally over the workbench to be pounded on or drilled etc etc. Also, the object between jaws will sit on the vices solid body and the vice can be opened very wide, almost as wide as its whole body length.
The modern vice with the moving front jaw is more versatile because generally the jaws are in front of the benchtop and you can clamp objects of weird shapes and long thin parts hanging off the bench. But there is a much smaller opening range and the further you open it the less strong and less stable it gets.
So generally, the German style is good for clamping blocky heavy objects, especially if part of a machining setup like clamped on a large milling machine etc.
Moving front jaw styles are more versatile, clamping lighter objects hanging off the front of a bench for hand working etc. I have a 45 degree vice that can clamp long stock vertically or horizontally, but my main work vice is a combo flat jaws plus pipe jaws which is fully rotating, so it can clamp anything off the front of the bench and at any angle (but with some loss of rigidity).
Imdont have a large moving rear jaw vice, but if you think about it all the small drill press and milling vices are moving rear jaw, for the same benefits. 🙂
Thanks. That is the best description yet. Pinned!
Milling vise's (good ones) are fixed rear jaw, moving front jaw
@@TlD-dg6ug I've never seen that type. Normally there is a solid base and a fixed jaw at one end, then a sliding jaw which slides along the base.
Basically like RotarySMP's new vice in the video.
Thank you for giving an answer that the video never did!
- not generically 'German"" (nor a machinists vise) but the vises of this design.... so on.... Specifically designed not for clamping large jobs in front of a bench edge but over the pivot - with parallel jaws. More or less a large engravers vise.
As a german, this is how I learned it:
A vise with a back opening jaw is reffered to as a machinists/toolmakers/mechanics vise, usually is made of cast steel, and is built much more heavily.
They are not as versatile as the other type of vise, but are much more accurate and stable. They were meant for precise bench work, like filing dies, or working on complex assemblies.
We also have vises with front opening jaws, those are usually called a smiths/ironworkers vise, they are usually made from forgings, are not as precise, but can handle much more abuse. They are meant for heavy work like chipping, bending, etc.
Thank you, that is a very good and concise answer. I will put it into the video description.
@@RotarySMP Thanks 👍🏻 I feel honored 😅
One quick addendum: I've seen some people say its for supporting heavy work pieces. Note: Please *do not* rest heavy work pieces on your vises spindle, it will bend it and damage the vise. These Leinen pattern vises can hold heavy parts, I've used them to file dies and punches that I had to lower into the vise with the shops crane, but never rest them on the spindle.
@MannoMax Sorry, not cast steel but cast iron. Thererfore toolmaker vises are not as tough as the cast- or forged-steel ones.
@@hiha2108 Sorry, yeah, the east german tool maker vises were cast steel, I assumed Leinen also used cast steel, but turns out they use basic grey cast iron. Point still stands tho
east german tool maker vises ... good craftsmanship, personally, prefer the rigidity of this design.
Seems to me, for resting on the 'spindle', as long as 1" of it were in the mating jaw, it would take pretty severe force to bend it...assuming, of course that those were mated machine surfaces.
"I don't want to go overboard" I think you blew wayyy past that milestone.
Yes, James, I think you might be right on that one :)
Oh yeah, that ship has sailed.
@@jalans8173 Each little step seemed logical at that time .)
@@RotarySMP You do tend get "damaged" by the aircraft industry. I know :)
I liked the cleanup of the machine used to make the holes in the jaws, most other youtubers don't include stuff like that and so I can't appreciate how much effort goes into cleanup and maintenance of machinery.
Thanks Ellie, yeah, I am constantly cleaning in and around the machine. It makes a lot of mess really fast :)
It's a small thing, but I was very happy to see you were able to remove the broken screw so easily. Score one for the Good Guys! Beautiful restoration of a very nice vise, just another example of you taking the time to do things well.
Thanks a lot David.
Love your tenacity and willingness to show your mistakes. Thanks for doing that. Nothing like spilling a can of paint and still being reminded of it for years to come as you see portions of it on your other tools! Who hasn't done that to some degree, let's be honest.
Thanks for your kind feedback.
I just want to say that the number of setbacks, and "this didn't go how I wanted" events in this video matches my experience IRL. Good on you for not seeming phased by it, where as I'd have turned off the workshop light and not returned for a month.
Thanks for your kind feedback.
What a lovely restoration job, you must be very pleased with that. Nice work ! 🙂
Thanks. I really am happy how it came out. It is a nice tool.
That's an awesome vive. Wish I could find one locally. Great job on the restoration.
Thanks. These are a pretty common style in Germany and Austria. It is really solid. I am enjoying using it.
I was brought here by the algorithm, total newcommer I watch the thing and I'm saying to myself this guy has sort of "This Old Tony" vibe and then the original fully functionning MAHO comes on the stage! It really made my day.
Nice work with the vise BTW. Cheers to ThisOldTony! You got my subscribing and I'm off to explore your other vids...
Welcome. I hope you enjoy my other videos as well. Tony contacted me about his lube unit on the Maho a couple of years ago, and I gave him some tips on it. He kindly gave the channel a shout out in one of his last Maho videos. Boy did that light up my channel :)
It's refreshing to see a restoration paint job done WITHOUT rattle can paint. Nice vice.
Thanks Preso. This is a pretty nice paint. It flows nicely, and only make runs on the obvious, visible bits.
Nice to see someone spelling it the correct way...thanks Preso
: Well - what is the problem with paint in a can? (joking) - One can get any paint in a can (custom filled cans)... (even reusable cans which can be filled with a small shot of paint in one's own workshop... (I understand the sentiment, but the art is in the execution not the tools.)
(Jacquard - YouCAN could even be a handy refillable AP device - even a tubeless valve stem can be used to recharge (with dry air) any can.) - hmmm
I guess what you lose in the workshop when things go wrong you make up in the video edit - really enjoyable content and a fine example of perseverence, optimism, skill and craftsmanship. Thanks Mark, always learning with you.
Thanks for your encouraging words Rick.
It's good that you cleaned it up - you wouldn't want to end up with 'a dull vice'
No I wouldn't :)
I've never seen your channel before, and I was enthralled by all 46+ minutes of this. What an amazing job you did. I shall be subscribing and watching more of your stuff.
Welcome aboard! I hope you enjoy my other videos as well.
Absolutely superior job. We had 8 of those vises in the shop at the Max Planck Institute where I spent 12 years of my scientific career in many years ago. Thanks for letting us take a look at your masterful job.
Thanks for your kind feedback Bruce. Must have been a very interesting place to work.
Wow….Planck Institute….Can only imagine how good the workshop set up was
A German would ask, "Why do everyone else's vises open the wrong way?" Maybe it's so that as the jaw is opened, the centre of mass of the vise and workpiece move inboard instead of outboard. Better when one is working with a wobbly bench.
Thanks for taking a stab at that Brian. The other way means you can locate the back jaw above the edge of the bench, and can clamp long parts sticking, up to the max jaw opening. Here that is limited.
I'd suggest that the front jaw is the one that gets the beating, so better that it's fixed rather than beating the hell out of the screw and slide.
Thanks for your input to that Jim.
@@RotarySMP I don't know for sure, but it's the first thing that makes sense..
In fact, there is an other common German vise, the Heuer Front, that opens to the front. But this was more for fabrication shops. The Leinen was more for the tool and die shop. This style is even called a toolmakers vice.
Nice video! @15:28 it is mentioned that Argon has higher mass than CO2. That's not correct i am afraid: Ar is element 18 with atomic mass 40, C and O are 6 and 8 with masses 12 and 16. CO2 has molecular mass of12+2*16=44. So pretty close to each other, with Argon slightly below.
Thanks Anton. Brain fade there. I am sure why I was thinking of averaging the atomic masses, rather than adding them.
I always thought that a vice was measured by how far the jaws opened ,, learn something every day
I never thought about that. Maybe different makers do it differently?
First year in welding school is spark analysis chart ,by grinding an edge you can tell the metal, including cast iron and alloys
Yeah, the sad think is I know this, and also had plenty of clues that this is cast iron or ductile iron, but I still ignored the signs.
I really like these vises with the fixed front jaw and this one turned out great! Bummer about the welding spots but on the other hand that's an opportunity for trying TIG brazing should they ever break lose.
Hi Christian, and thanks again for the jaw blanks.
Precise layout is over-rated LMFAO - love it!
Briliiant work BTW - the end result is likely better than they ever were out of the OEM factory and the Germans can be fussy.
Thanks for your kind feedback. It is a nice tool.
@@RotarySMP I've now got a serious case of vise envy
@@sharkbaitsurfer These are pretty common in Germany and Austria, as they are the standard in all trade schools, company workshops etc.
Pretty restoration! thank you very much for sharing. I did almost the same work, two years before, with a similar vise, some kilograms heavier and some decades older (!). I mounted it on a metal bench, reinforced with heavy Π profiles. Think about, if you apply a lot of force in the tightening, the wooden bench may have a problem! It may even break.😊
Thanks for your kind feedback. This bench is only temporary (in it's fourth year :)
I have a nice slab of thick ply, and will weld up a frame for that new bench.
dunno, but seemed like a good paint job on the floor.. =D I got me a new tool - a break/shear/roller and got it mounted in the garage this weekend. cut a bit of sheet metal... fun times. Happy Sunday!
Yeah, at least my tiles wont rust now :(
Another excellent instalment! Production quality is better than ever, as are the blunders! I have always appreciated how you treat your mistakes as merely another step in the process. No drama, no fuss, just get over it and move on. When I screw up I have to fight the urge to curl up in a corner for a few hours - though I suppose could be doing that off camera. 🤔 If you do, best keep it a secret, okay?
Hi Paul, the magic of non-linear editing software :)
Very much enjoyed watching this restoration! I really enjoyed the stop motion assembly sequence.
Thanks for the kind feedback.
great job, great summary, well done and such a beautifull vice reborn !
Hats off or
Hut ab !
as germans tend to say for impressive achievements !
Thank you for your kind feedback.
nice vice, nice restore, sorry about the dead tools.
Thanks Simon. I need to do some maintenance there.
Did you do any surface quality work on the sliding dovetails, for smooth operation?
And have you considered (since you're well set up to do the work) fitting a thrust bearing for the main screw? It slightly reduces the jaw opening, but gives easier handle spinning.
Hi Paul. No, the sliding ways were in really nice condition (with a little staining). Since they had no scoring all galling, and there is no gib to take up slop, I didn't want to scrape and add clearance.
I kind of like a bit of resistance on the handle. This vise has a nice feel.
I bought a used vice which is apart from that it is with a "K&K" instead of "Leinen" inscription the very same vice. You did such a wonderful job with the restauration.
I once bough a set of profiled aluminium angles for round stock, they attach to my original steel jaws with embedded magnets. I just don't have any idea where as that was a over a decade ago.
I also have some aluminium soft jaws, which will mostly be used (over the copper jaws).
Good videos, love the content. The series of mishaps had me thinking your shop is falling apart, found it very funny.
It really felt like that at times. I really need to sort out the oven and the band saw gearbox.
I wonder why no one ever adds a sacrificial, hardened steel wear plate to the anvil surfaces. The time you spent trying to remove the pits and scratches would have been better spent attaching a thickness of hardened 4140 steel with flat head screws. I like the idea so much, I'm going to do that with my homely vise! (note to self: drill the mounting holes in the plate BEFORE hardening!) Great video!
Another viewer also made that suggestion. Especially to drill and tap blind holes in from the bottom of the hardened anvil, and mount with counter sunk screws up from below. It would a good idea, and I wish I had thought of it.
Those copper jaws look really good on the vise.
Thanks for watching it, and commenting.
3/5/24..Wow! Most enjoyable to watch & listen on this great restoration of your LINEN Bench Vice. Am 1st time viewer, just 'flipping' along YT when your channel poped up. Great! Impressed with your very well equiped shop & your excellent skills not only as technician but also as educator via your commentary...& sense of humor😂
Hope to catch another episode very soon. Stay safe & carry on! Best wishes fron New Orleans area 🇺🇸
Welcome James, thanks for your very kind feedback.
I have no interest in vises spefically or metal work in general but this fantastic restoration work kept me hooked all the way through.
Thanks for the kind feedback.
"I don't want to go overboard" Far too late for that!! What a superb result! You can mig with pure argon, most don't because of the cost. Argoshield 5 is argon with 5% CO2 and 2% Oxy, When I was doing some work for a hole in the wall garage, we migged with pure CO2 pub gas bottles, TBH the difference was not really noticable, and I have had dodgy argoshield bottles in the past that just didn't seem to weld right!
I have a mate in Canada who bought a small bench lathe in the UK and had it shipped to me for boxing up and export. Wnen I got it I noticed immediately that the cross slide handwheel was anticlockwise for in and clockwise for out! Cannot remember the make but I warned him about it. The crash potential of that is enormous!! Luckily all my lathes work the same way! Really enjoyed watching that! I am back at work and released my latest YT video on Saturday,the first for nearly three months!
Phil Phil Whitley on YT "My Week this Week"
Hi Phil,
Thanks for the tips on shielding gas. I need to get my CO2 refilled and try it again.
Someone in the past must have replaced the lead screw on my Clarkson, for a RH one, so it is clockwise out. Drives me nuts. Sooner or later I need to make a new one, and also put a scale on it.
@@RotarySMP I know that if I had a backwards feed screw that one day I would crash it!!
@@philhermeticYep. I can agree with that.
love the editing on the video. kept the pace flowing and showed the interesting bits
Glad you enjoyed it!
The only thing even more advanced if you have a holder that enables you to adjust the height of the vise. Leinen make high quality vices, and I am glad to see you had done a good job at its renovation.
Yeah, those vise lifter are pretty common here.
First time viewer here, from Croatia.
Until you mentioned NZ I thought you were an Englishman expat living in Germany or somewhere else in Europe.
As if you bought everything from Bauhaus. Wisent, Proxxon, Einhell...
Even the vise itself, I occasionally see these excellent old Leinen vises on our local version of Craigslist.
Loved the video. Subscribed!
Welcome. Yeah, I am Kiwi in Vienna. Those Leinen vise really are nice.
Ahh the good old Leinen vice. I have very fond memories about that vice.
1.) I went through an apprenticeship as a tool and die maker in the late 1970s. The vices we had? You guessed correctly, Leinen.
2.) In my home shop (I make knives as a hobby) I have two Leinen. A large 125 mm and small clock makers vice.
3) The original maker, Boley and Leinen is/was located in mx hometown.
It really is an iconic design. Lovely tool.
Hi! new guy here. Firstly, quite a restoration job. Much love and attention went into this. And the vice came out really nice with the copper against the sage (green) colour. As for the bench, my suggestion is to add some cross-bracing on the sides and back. Sturdier structure. Once levelled and against a wall, screw it to the wall for retaining against any coupling effort - like when you were trying to remove the crown nut. Of course, adding a plywood deck would also help.
Have a 3"' vice of that type which I'll eventually get to re-model as to slide along the front of the bench (it isn't swivel). I use brass jaws on all my workbench vices. I found copper is too soft and deforms easily; but holds great.
Welcome to my channel.
my little steel welding bench is left free standing so I can move it out intothe room and work around it. The wooden bench is just a temporary one (we know what temporary means), as I have a nice thick slab of ply wood for the permanent bench lurking (ageing?) behind the Boley lathe. Just need to make up a frame for it. Future project for sure.
Very nice resto, I enjoyed a lot the fact you showed the mishaps and mistakes, very nice to see what a real shop process is all about. That said, in my humble opinion you should put "a solid and anchored working bench" on your list 😅
Absolutely. I even have a nice slab of thick beech plywood lurking behind the Boley lathe as a top. This is just a temporary bench made from an old door. In it's fifth yea of temporary use :)
@@RotarySMPJust the fifth? Nice hahahah
But if you bolt it to the wall, I would say it would be an 80% improve with almost no effort.
A brand new subsciber here.
I have a collection of vises, and have enjoyed watching you revive this one, you've done a great job. I do thing that a vise of that size is worthy of being fitted to an equally substantial bench though, and one which is secured to the wall and floor. I find it infuriating when a vise holds the job, but the whole bench starts moving when you start putting some heavy duty effort into trying undo some parts clamped in a vise.
Many thanks
David in the UK.
Welcome aboard . This bench was just temporary when I made it 5 years ago :) it’s an old door. No mass. I already have the ply slab for the new bench.
Well that’s the only way to make sure long pieces clamped vertically collide with the edge of the workbench - greetings from germany…
Yeah, that is the advantage of the front opening type for sure.
LEINEN was one of the world best vise manufakturers. I also own one since nearly 50 years, the 100mm version.
Thanks, good to know they last well. It is really a nice tool.
Hi, i’m watching since you started your channel, before the MAHO arrived. Awesome work with everything you are doing. Very cool subjects, very entertaining presented and the dry typical NZ humor mixed with sarcasm and irony that can be found in Austria, Bavaria and Baden-Württemberg . But one big question and i guess request i have!
WHEN ARE YOU BUILDING A AUTOMATIC TOOLCHANGER FOR THE MAHO ?????????
Thanks for your kind feedback. I kind of doubt I will do an ATC on the Maho. I tend to do mostly one off type jobs, where the time savings of an ATC seem insignificant in the project .
A really cracking result in the end. I sometimes get the "negative work coefficient" fixing vintage electronics test gear, like you did here: you gain a vice, but the casualty list includes the heat treat oven, bandsaw gear box, a tin of paint and part of the floor.
Yep, you nailed that Robert. Project list ends up longer than I started...again.
Always wondered why guess I’ll have to watch and find out
Hi Luke, once you find out, let me know :)
@@RotarySMP Watched the video but still don't know why:) Grate job on the rebuild. Now ill have to go and find myself a swivel base like that.
@@LCallejaIf we are lucky, somebody who knows will tell us.
Check Kleineanzeigen for "schraubstock drehteller"
There are also vertical lift devices for those vises.
www.kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/hoehenverstellung-leinen-schraubstock-120mm/2693465827-84-19638
@@RotarySMP While you are at it, I heard that the aviation industry is looking for somebody with real skinny arms. More specifically the right man should fit between a vice swivel plate and vice body. What the job pays, they didn't say.
@@joenicotera2991I figured it unlikely that you would need to remove that split pin with the vise installed, but having worked on British A/C in the training school, it was not such an unreasonable task :)
Thanks for the video. Loved the commentary. The music was also perfect. Not too much, not too less. Great editing. Deserved the Like and the Sub!
Much appreciated!
Im new to your channel and was wondering what top coat color that was. Im not qiite sure what other videos youve used it in but ill try to find them. Awesome job by the way
Quite sure it's reseda green.
Yep RAL 6011 Reseda Green.
It came from a local paint store. No special 2 part stuff.
@@RotarySMP thank you I appreciate it I'm working on getting a small surface grinder and hopefully fixing it up.
@@brettbernhardt7608 Nice. Which model? I would love a surface grinder.
Excelent job mate, Im not sure I could give away that many hours of my life for a workshop vice but that says more about me than it says about you, a preheat of the casting and the correct electrodes plus peening may have helped with the welds
Realy good Work ! I HAVE SEVERE MILL ENVY 😊
Thanks 👍. I appreciate the feedback
hmm.. that stop-motion part get´s me ... pretty good work
Glad you enjoyed that. It was fun making it.
A very enjoyable video, great work with the vice! Many thanks for the work you put into the video!
A good vice is very often underestimated and makes the job so much easier.
Thanks for your kind feedback Chris.
Hello from Vancouver Canada. What a great find this channel is. Instant sub and will be letting others know about this TOT acorn.
Welcome and thanks for spreading the word.
I live in Germany and have never seen this type of Vise. I'm not saying they don't exist for specialist purposes, but most vises sold in shops and DIY superstores are the conventional type we all know.
Thanks Lisa. Here in Austria, this style is the most common, seen in most trade schools and apprentice workshops.
You just look at the wrong places. Modern front opening, forged and welded steel vises are obviously everywhere now because that is what is made and sold since it's cheaper (nowadays) and easier to make. That said, you can still buy back opening cast iron parallel vises new if you look for them online, though they are a dying "art". The classifieds are full of them, though and you can get a good 100 - 150mm jaw width one for a good price and if you grew up with the back opening kind it's really the thing to go for😃.
This was an excellent video, Mark. The length was about perfect, the content was great, and the music had a cool late 60's vibe to it. Have you been following Abom79's Fireball Tool Hard Tail Vise build? That'd be a nice vise to have, assuming one had a workshop large enough for a full size Fireball Tool fixture table to support it.
Hi JC. Yeah, that Fireball vise is a real beast. Adam is putting a lot of work into it. It will be a museum piece.
I would really, deeply, love it if you made a video explaining about your paint spraying technique.
It's something I know very little about, and you get such smashing results.
I'd like to know about the whole process, gun type, pressure, adjustments of the gun, dilution of the paint, paint types, clean up etc. The works.
Is that something you might cover at some point in the future?
Anyway, thanks for another fascinating vid!
By the way, I made the above comment before I'd seen the spillage incident 😂 but I would still like to see that stuff.
Hi Dave,Thanks for the idea. I'll do that next time I paint, but I think you are putting too much trust in my technique. A lot of the art of painting is choosing the camera angles which hide the runs, sags, and dust in the finish :)
That was a really interesting video! I totally enjoyed watching it! Thanks for sharing...
Thanks for your kind feedback.
The outcome was awesome. It seems to have been a great effort that paid off :)
Definitely! Thanks for your kind feedback.
44:10 Super nice animation starting here!
Glad you liked it.
That’s beautiful work, friend. Slainte!
Thanks lot for the kind feedback Jason.
You said Argon had a much higher molecular mass than carbon dioxide in the welding gas mixing section. Argon's atomic mass is ~40g/mol and carbon dioxide's molecular weight is about 44 g/mol (12 from carbon and 16x2 from oxygen). I don't have welding experience (just chemistry) but did you mean something else?
Thanks for checking that. I guess I big time confused the atomic mass with the molecular mass.
So If I want 75:25 Ar:Co2, a mix of about 15l/m Ar with 5l/CO2 should be about right?
@@RotarySMPYeah, I think the math works out to about 2.73:1 -> Ar:Co2 for a 75:25 mixture but just taking the 3:1 would be close enough for most things.
@@RestartVandelayThanks. I need to get a refill on that Co2 bottle and give it another try.
Had that have been mine, fixing the molding defect on the "E" would have brought me all kinds of long-suffered satisfaction!
NicE Work! 🤓
Glad you enjoyed that. :)
Rally enjoyed your refurb. Great content. Paul, Scotland.
Thanks for your kind feedback Paul.
Nice work. I have the same vise rusting somewhere in a corner, thx for the restoration tutorial. And for answering the same question that came up to me, when I found it. :)
They are a nice vise. I didn't know the answer when I madde the video, but posted the best answer in the description.
I always thought that workbench was missing something.. some Reseda stains was all that it needed!
The vice looks great, good job.
Thanks :) I am glad I resisted the temptation to make that saw bench out of expensive maple. I know it would end up looking like this sooner or later.
when you painted the piece, shouldn't the moving ways be protected by painter's tape ?
They were. I peeled it off at the end. You just didn't see it, as the first undercoat layer I didn't film. Tt was just before I went to NZ for a month, and didn't want things rusting in that time. My daughter taped up all the machined surfaces, and I gave everyting a light undercoat. From there, the video shows everything one color.
WOW. Whoda thunk a vice restoration could be so riveting. An enjoyable 3/4 hour on a Sat nite.
Thanks for the feedback. That helps.
Always fun finding a castle nut missing split pin. It means it was either never put in originally, or someone took it out and found they lacked the ability to remove the nut (like this example) and figured putting a new pin in was pointless.
Normally right Matt. In this case, Bastel stripped it when he got it, to check it had no cracks. Since he knew I was going to restore it, he just put it back together without the split piun.
Trivia. My mentor visiting a major Japanese manufacturing plant in Japan in the early 1950s that made gears. The entire factory was two buildings. One equipped with several dozen carbide cutting torches and steel stock. The second a vast warehouse lined with work benches over 100 feet long. About 200 work stations each equipped with files, templates and a vice. That was it. Torches, files and vices, the entire set of tools.
Weird way to make gears, hand made would never give the accuracy needed for reliable high speed gears.
@@RotarySMPI agree, but we've all seen oriental craftsmanship as precise as it gets with nothing but hand made primitive tools.
@@thaiexodus2916 Not only Oriental. There are Stradivarius-like master craftsmen in nearly all eras and cultures. Like our YT'er clickspring :)
@@RotarySMPI often recall seeing a hollow wooden ball about 10 inches across. About 100 exquisite Hindu pantheon figures meticulously carved into it with many small spaces revealing the inside of the ball. Looking closer, the figures are all three dimensional, the insides all carved through the little spaces. The inner carvings as perfect as the outside. Somebody's life work?
Examining closely, it's a solid ball from a single piece of wood. No seams or joints.
Watching you trying to temove rust with electrolysis makes me wonder if you have ever tried citric acid. You can get it very cheaply as descaler in well sorted supermarkets here in germany (Kaufland, Globus etc.) its not only super effective at removing scale, but also really good at removing rust. A few tablespoons of Citric acid in a few liters of warm or hot water and most rust is gone in one or two hours. Might want to give that a try next time!
Thanks for the tip. I even have some, from a photo chemical experiement. I'll try it next time.
I love these old vises they are a real vice of mine. I always wanted to add an thrust bearing but don't have the correct tools.
They really are nice. Given the speed of rotation, the thrust bushing is not a big disadvantage.
@@RotarySMP Nice video now that I have watched it! The thrust bearing helps unscrewing the vice easily if you tighten it down very hard and it is easier to apply more Force.
@@Coconut7403I never really get that need to crank down like that. I'd be worried about cracking the vise casting.
@@RotarySMPthe Heuer vices (some with a similar movable rear jaw) have ball bearings in the spindle, but they are forged steel
@@janstaines5989Nice.
03:29 - Impact drill?
Yeah, an impact driver would have probably also shifted it.
Lovely resto Mr SMP, thanks for the video. I've not seen you do the four way split screen before, looked good. The stop motion assembly was great too. Commiserations on your heat treat oven, hopefully you can reuse all the metalwork and electronics. I know you had trouble getting hold of fire bricks before, any change on that now?
I have a suggestion for your whiteboard list: How about a new bench under that vice? I'm thinking of much thicker wood, much heavier construction. = Heather.
Hi Heather. Good spotting. I already have the thick ply for the bench top hiding behind the Boley. I just need to get organised and make some legs for it.
I found a vender in Germany how has the aerated firebricks, so a new oven is certainly on the cards.
I have been playing around a bit with multi pane split screens on other videos, as it is a good way to hide the missing audio from slo-mo clips :)
Very nice, Herr Leinen would be pleased to see it!
Thanks Miranda.
That stop motion animation was awesome! That must've taken forever to do!
Thanks, I enjoyed it. It goes faster than you think. It is a bit awkward having large castings, so things jump off the table into position, as I couldn't do intermediate positions.
That is a really cool and interesting looking vise. Having a strong vise in the shop makes working on things so much easier. I have a 5" Wilton bullet vise that I restored a couple of years ago. I still want to make soft jaws for it.
I now need a decent bench for it to sit on :)
I saw Clickspring a few years ago did case hardening with carbon flour mix and sealed in a clay crucibal, his was patterned from the iron age, try that in your gas forge maybe?
Yeah, I love his videos. If I had some clay on hand I would have tried that.
I am surprised that having another vice there that you failed to mount the vice in it to remove the castle nut.
That vise is not really big enough to grip it well, and the casting was not ideal to grip.
Can attest to those magnesium alloy cases dissolving. One into the ocean by me years ago, and when recovered the engine had rings of bolts held in place with locking wires, the casings having dissolved away from around them. My boss at the time was the base photographer, among his other tasks. He had a few albums, and these were in there.
Yeah, it is a very reactive metal. I'd love to see those photos.
At about 15:30 you say that argon has a much higher mass than carbon dioxide, but the atomic weight of Ar is 40 and carbon dioxide is 12+16+16 = 44. I don't see how a 10% difference in atomic/molecular weights counts as much higher mass, especially since carbon dioxide is the heavier gas.
Thanks Bret. I screwed that up completely. I was thinking the average mass of the atoms rather than the combined mass of the molecule. My chem lecturer is probably rotating!
Came here by accident on a Sunday evening & heard the oh so recognizable Kiwi accent that made me stay & confirmed New Zealand connections with the "Bog" body filler . Subscribed
G'day Pete, and welcome.
Got the same type Leinen vise at work, really nice and solid vise, only downside is that you can't really put anything that goes down in it, due to the beefy casting and screw beneath the jaws
Thanks Erik, I see it the same. That is really the advantage of the front opening ones.
"four inch input vice on the idge of my welding binch"
What's that accent called?
P.s. New Zealand? Where's the old one?
P.p.s apparently Zeeland is a dutch province, and dutch were known sea explorers so I'm not surprized if they named your country.
I mostly speak Denglish. A mix of german and english :)
old Zeeland is in Holland.
Yeah, Cleaning up the E in the casting makes it work SOOO much better !
Yes it does!
Because sooner or later they do go backwards?
Could be Dale :)
What kind of paint did you use for this restoration? I have an old Wilton Vice, made in Chicago IL., USA (probably late 1940's to mid 1950's) that was restored prior to me buying it. Every time I bump it with anything, the paint chips off. It seems like there is no real adhesion between the paint and the metal.
This is just a standard one pot paint. Time will tell how well it holds up.
28:24 no worries, if you really want to see somebody go overboard on a vice, watch Abom's vice build 😅
Your endresult looks really nice. And hey, at least no broken endmill this time!
I have been watching his build as well. It is a beast of a vise.
Are the Clarkson extensions something they used to sell with them? I was wondering about making one earlier this week.
They are certainly a standard accessory. It seems to me a murphy's law issue. Whenever I approach the Clarkson with a task, I need to either remove or install that extension. It is a bit of a PITA as the extension has a wrenching flat, but the spindle doesn't
@@RotarySMP thanks for the response. Is there anything special about them or just a basic extension? Might just make one.
For the record, carbon dioxide has a slightly higher molecular mass (44) than argon (40).
But- if it works, it works.
Thanks. I confused the average atomic numbers with the molecular weight. Oops. :)
Very nice vise! They give full support like a milling machine vise (at least one of which every serious mechanic should own even if you don't have a milling machine!).
As for heavy hammering etc in any vise but a blacksmith's vise while blacksmithing I learnt long ago there is almost always a better way to move metal than maximum bashing on cold parts.
Good points you make there. Thanks.
Amusing that you show all mistakes, subscribed for that reason.
Welcome. Thanks for your feedback.
I bought a Polish made vise for $2 in the US. I was made in Poland and has movable rear jaw. It has a jib on one side of the jaw slide to take out slop. The jib adjuster was missing when I bought it so the jaw just fell off. Turned out to be a beautiful wise.
Sounds like you got a good deal on that. The Leinen has no gib, but mine is still nice and tight.
Hello, I have a question. Will this vice base fit the Schegle vice? I would be very grateful for your answer. Greetings from Poland
I am sorry, but I have no idea what a Schegle vise is.
ok I thought you could help me. and as for the Schegle vice, it is a German-made vice
@@krzysztofkaczmarek4240 Try asking instagram.com/8astel/ as he is a vise collector and found this one for me.
No, old Leinens and Schlegel use different hole patterns. If you find a similar looking base: the Schlegel swivel base is bit longer, not rectangular.
Thanks for your answer, I thought it would fit. A foundation like that is a good thing. Thanks again and have a nice day 🖐
Brilliant! So entertaining. Really great watch.
Glad you enjoyed it Trevor. Thanks for the feedback.
i only half watched, but the finished result is amazing! great work!
Thanks for the kind feedback. Now you have the second half to still look forward to :)
Hmm, I thought I commented already, but I guess it disappeared into the aether. Anyways, I will just retype what I wrote:
Great restoration! Love the classic paint color on the part. As for case hardening, I use a pure graphite induction crucible placed inside a ceramic jacket crucible. These come in a set on Amazon and eBay meant for induction furnaces. I put charcoal and baking soda inside the crucible along with the part then cover with plaster. I usually run at 950C as well. Hopefully these tips can help. The crucible configuration is much more resilient and can be used multiple times, though only for relatively small parts.
Thanks Roman. I have some clay gaphite crucibles for casting, but those jaws are pretty long. I was not planning to use the uncontrolled heat of gas. Need to make a new oven.
From my understanding, the German vise is designed to keep your work further back and over the bench instead of your work piece extending out past the edge of the bench. I figure it distributes the load/force into the table differently...
Thanks for your feedback on that. I really was wondering.
I Like the mix of machines used from flimsy diy store grinder to a claped out 60 year old bandsaw to a more then decent Maho cnc mill.
Thanks Arjan.
Good video editing and well presented narration.
Glad you enjoyed it!
Nice vise. Hopefully the paint mishap will be a forever reminder of what fun it was to restore the vise. 😉
Thanks Joell. That... and using the vise :)