Came across this video and I’m so glad I did! I love that you did hardly any editing. Makes the video more “real”! Just got my xTool laser and am eager to etch glass. This convinced me to go for it! I subscribed because I love your honest approach! Thank you!!
Hi, thanks for noticing. The only thing I'm "trying" to do, is not be a carbon copy of everyone else. Ya, they make money and I don't, but I told myself to keep it real and just make videos. one day I might get a more professional setup, but the gist will still be the same...me doing stuff and things.
I've had the XTool D1 Pro for months.. not even touched the rotary tool yet.. completely agree.. custom glasses for my family are on the Xmas list of ideas 😁👌
This method of using the Chalkboard Spray Paint was a game changer for me. it work so much better than the Brilliance brand in my opinion. Thanks for this video.
This was also was the key for me to get great engravings as well! I've watched he'd and tried many things and this was by far the best I've seen for a diode. Thanks for the great help!
Hi. Thanks. I told myself when I started doing videos I was just going to be me and do what I do and say what I say, not be fake and bouncy and full of click bait pretend hype. Sure, being this way I'm sure I'll never get a sponsor or make a ton of money, but that's cool. Not why I do it anyway. :-) Thanks for noticing and commenting on that aspect of the videos. I will be working to have a better quality of videos, but that comesbwith money...lol...so it might be a while.
@@lasersandbeyond i TOTALLY AGREE with @megkoos4260!!! im saying the SAME THING SHE SAID (im at 19:14), i think you COULD have done it the way you had it set up (with the bottom in the chuck) you just needed to shim up the legs of the laser, you can go as vertical as you want with these the IMPORTANT THING is how far away the laser is from the material your working on. do you and put out good content like your doing and youll get the sponsors and money to do this professionally but to begin with this is a passion project and from what ive seen in the first 20 min you DEFF have the passion and the likeability
Thanks for the kind words. The days of propping things up and building laser Jenna stands are over. Lol. I've since obtained a kickers rotary mod I can use on the xtool, and I bought a 130w co2 as well as an 80w co2. :-)
side note, if your ganna do any kind of mass production of them i would suggest getting a box of latex gloves so you dont have to wash your hands EVERY TIME YOU CLEAN A GLASS, im up to 48:00 min and it looks AWESOME!!!
Great video! I would add: 1. invert the glass so that the top is on the cardboard to cover up the mouth/opening of the glass 2. Instead of using the external Single Step Jaw for the vise using the internal Double Step Jaw to secure the glass from the interior so you have more surface area to engrave. Keep up the great content!! 😀
I really loved your video. You actually answered so many of the questions I had that were left out of other videos. I'm in Australia and use mm's. Go you......
Enjoyed the video. I've converted a hell of a lot of wood into smoke making test grids but like you said everybody's stuff is different. Received a rotary tool for Christmas have not used it yet, still getting comfortable with flat stuff. I'll look up your web site. Keep the videos coming!
Hi there, thanks for watching! I will be doing more tumblers soon as some members from our facebook group requested to go over some colors they have issues with. I will be doing even more glassware as well in the coming months as I have a few jobs lined up that I'll share with you guys.
Thanks so much for the effort you put in explaining everything. I am new to the laser world as of this week and really trying to study hard to hit the ground running with as few avoidable mistakes as possible. Your suggestion to increase the test size to examine larger area results is something I haven't seen anywhere else, thank you. Also, really enjoyed watching you with the chuck. I have one that I haven't taken out of the box yet, I'm glad I didn't because I think I would have thought I struggled too much with it. After seeing your addressing the wine glass will give me much more patience when I get it out soon! I do want to express my concern for your exposure to chemicals. I have high sensitivity because when I was younger I did not respect just how much I was absorbing through skin and breathing. I really hope you will consider wearing gloves and spraying outside. Don't mean to mama you but want to look out for you! Thanks again for your generosity with your time and knowledge! Merry Christmas!
Looks great. I have not tried glass yet but will try soon. I have started engraving rings using the IR module. I have just received a RA2 tilt mechanism from Embrace Making and it makes tilting the RA2 a lot easier. It will tilt up to +/- 40 degrees.
The one from embrace is nice, I used it for a while, but now that I have the Rotary Mod from Alive Pixel Creations, I'll never use anything else. Check out my video series on it. It's amazing.
Excellent video. I get my machine today and hope to pop off some test grids soon. I also joined your Facebook page so hopefully I can get going in the right direction. Thanks for time, Rich!
Thanks for the video. The advice to the noobs like me is well received. Also, The focus on low cost supplies is great. The engraver and roller is out of my budget right now. What are your thoughts on the Comgrow Z1 5W laser and roller? Doable?
You don't have to be french to use metric, I'm English and we use metric here because like the rest of the world we know it's a far easier and superior form of universal measurement. It's good to see a lot of laser channels use metric in the videos because it means us in the rest of the world can follow your content
It was sarcasm, French was just the first nationality that popped into my head. You don't seriously believe I thought only the French used metric, right? Lol I prefer using the metric system with the laser because it allows me to be more precise, and I can do that math in my head easily.
@@IAmErnicus no I guessed it was but just had to comment because I know a lot of Americans seem to think it's blasphemy to use metric. My comment was more aimed at your viewers just to let them know that it's ok to use metric 😂 I guess my comment wasn't worded very well, it's early,I've just woken up. Anyway good video. Oh and after you mentioned only seeing the chalkboard paint in black I looked on Amazon to buy some and sorted ty do a clear version, I assume it's to paint over wherever you have to enable use with chalk. I'm still not at the end of your video as I type this. I'm about to try my first glass engraving on some old jars when I can find my black paint. It is just mat black paint I use on my guns but I'm just testing the water and it's what I have here
@@IAmErnicus will do, nothing got done yesterday because I was getting ready for a new arrival, I rescue animals, mainly rabbits these days. I had message about a giant breed who was going to be released into a forest because the people didn't want her, I don't know if they didn't expect her to get this big but she is only 7 months old and bigger than my neighbours dog, she still has about another year to grow. I've only just got the D1 pro and RA2 pro a few das ago,I haven't even assembled the RA2 yet or hooked up my air assist. It's not the xtools air assist I have a pump I used to use for bubbling my biodiesel when I made it so I saved money on the pump. I'm guessing with the new arrival it won't be for a few days until I get to trying it out.
Great video. I think it might be easier to raise the glasses if you make a jig that has 2 pieces of wood with an hinge on the right side. Then you could use wedges or maybe a screw under the top board on the left to level the rotary jig. You could also make a jig to raise it the other way or dual jig with 3 boards and 2 hinges to lift either side.
thank you for the info i tested with chalkboard paint. YASSS it left them beautiful. the tempura paint was good but this is sooooo much better thank you
You're welcome. I try to tell folks, it's the best. Not all listen, so that's ok. More than one way to do things. But if you're like me, and it sounds like you are, I go with results as they trump popular opinion. :-)
Thanks very much for this video and sharing your experiences! So helpful. And appreciated. I tried it this afternoon on a thin-ish wine glass using your settings as a start, and got a fine crack. Heard it while engraving😮. Do you think turning speed up or power down a bit might avoid this? Thanks again!
Hi, thanks for watching. Unfortunately, when using a diode laser you really need the power to make the etch. You could try upping the speed, but the real issue is the glassware you chose. I find the best stuff is the cheap stuff, no bullshit. Dollar store glassware is great. Tempered glass is bad. Expensive glass is bad. Really thin glass, is bad.
Awesome video.. what are your settings, what color paint is on your walls, why is your window shade open half way, why do you have a hat on, how come you don’t wear glass’s… there.. .did I cover all of the questions now?.. LOL!! Only kidding, hate questions after questions myself.. But just hope this made you smile today Ernie!! Great video and will watch some more.. thanks for the Chalk tip.. Cleans off better than regular rustoleum!! Cheers!!
:-) thanks for making me smile. Yes, the chalkboard spray paint is wonderful. Not only is it super easy to clean off, but it makes for a great engraving as well.
FYI: Tempura comes from Sushi Bars and Tempera Paint from Hobby Lobby. I have found the very best pain for glass engraving is Rust-Oleum Camouflage Black. it is also possible to remove it in hot water with a scrubbing brush, avoiding solvents altogether. A bit more messy than "tempura" paints but not as bad as having to use solvents and gives a great result!
So is this the part where I point out your spelling faux pas too? lol. I mean, I'm not sure about wanting the "best pain for glass engraving"...I'd rather it be pain free. ;-) thanks for stopping by and having a little fun at my expense. Lord knows I give plenty of opportunity for it. lol
Your video was very helpful we have a Xtool D1 Pro 10w and the last few glasses we have done have either pealed off or rubbed while cleaning. Do you know why this would happen?
Without knowing your entire situation, no. However, most chipping/flaking of the engraved area comes from using too much power. Try going lighter and/or faster adjusting the other variable accordingly.
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to get a champagne glass just right for my daughter's wedding. I'm using cold galvanizing compound, settings are different than yours...I'm still playing around with those. I keep getting black dots in the engraving. Do you think that'd be because of the cg spray instead of chalk board paint or my settings, or both? I'm using xtool 20w also. Also, just turn the glasses upside down when spraying them so no paint gets inside.
Glav comp is terrible in all aspects. From quality to safety. You will get some folks, even youtubers, using it saying it's the best thing out there. They are just plain wrong. I said what I said. lol. I use Rustoleum chalkboard spray paint in the video, and in all my glass work. I've tried everything and this produces the best and whitest white for me. I also like to hit my glass harder than most, and I get good results from it as seen in the video. Good luck.
@Ernie Parrow I tried chalk paint that you recommended and cleaned my laser (I always forget to clean it), and it came out PERFECT! I'm done with CGC from here on out. Thanks a whole bunch for the tips and detailed video. After cleaning the laser (dumbass, why can't I remember to do that??) your settings worked for me, too. Highly appreciated, brotha. Thanks again.
Thanks for teaching this technique. Looked great! My only concern is if it is safe to wash all those chemicals down the drain to the drinking water supply? Maybe wash in a bucket and not return to the drinking water supply?
It's paint, hardly a harsh chemical. Citristrip is nowhere near a harsh chemical, it's actual designed as a better alternative to chemicals. I appreciate the view and the comment.
I find that paint thinner works to get the paint off my glass fairly easily. Maybe for a bulk order you could just dunk the glasses in bucket of the stuff. :)
True it works well, but I dontblike messing with many chemicals if I don't have to, so I use citristrip. Smells better too. But paint8ng will be a thing of the past for me soon as I have a co2 laser on its way to me. :-)
I haven't messed with anything that needs to be food grade, but break cleaner works instantly. Same thing as paint thinner pretty much, but being in a spray can is a lot handier than opening a can up and having to close it!
do you calculate and use width x 1.086 to offset the optical illusion of the image being squished horizontally when engraving on a cylinder? Lettering isn't affected quite as much as images. works quite well.
No, I don't believe in accounting for illusions, I believe in exact. Unpopular I know, but it works. If I want my image to be 3 inches, it will be 3 inches. This goes for circles, ovals, lettering, etc. The problem is most folks don't account for altering circumference. So they put a 3 inch circle in their software, burn it, and it comes out awkward oval-shaped and not 3 inches. This is because they did not account for the circumference value in their software. I don't believe in altering the image, you leave the image alone and alter to tools you are using to burn your image.
Hello kind sir. How do you prevent your engravings from chipping? I currently am using 100% power and 50mms. The fastest I can get my speed is 400. I am using XCS, does lightburn allow you to go faster? Please help!
There is no way to prevent chipping other than doing the engraving correctly. Improper engravings chip, proper engravings do not. I know that is not very helpful, but that is the reality of it. There is nothing you can do after the fact to prevent chipping.
put your rotary grip IN the glass and expand out, put little rubber or felt tabs between the glass and rotary arms. Now you have a completely open work area and are no longer limited in the width and could go all the way around the glass if desired.
I love you idea with the chalk board paint I just ordered mine, thank you for your videos, I'm just starting out as well and I can take all the advise by the way what set up do you use for fume evacuation from your room thank you in advance. Can't wait for your next video Cheers
Great work. Diameter = circumference divided by pi. Circumference = diameter x pi. hopefully helpful. Would hinging the bottom of the rotator help. Would cut down movement while changing glasses, and help with the gravity problem.
No idea what I said in the video that made you feel I would need equations posted to me, lol. I say wrong stuff all the time while making videos...I'm not a good youtuber. :-) I don't use this machine anymore for much of anything as I now have a 80w co2 that I do all my work on that requires a rotary and I use the piburn4 grip rotary, which is far superior than the one in this video. All of those setup struggles are now a thing of the past.
I made those jigs using the jig system from @TheClackShack . Visit his UA-cam channel and check him out. He sells the jig system and all you need for it on his etsy page as well as other cool stuff.
Could be a dumb question, but why do you have your rotary attachment upside down? I kept reading that you need to have the words legible to the front of the machine. I did that and my image engraved in mirror. is this your work around for that?
Yeah, don't believe everything you read online...even though this is text...and you're reading it...lol. I initially put it that way because the plug was over on that side of the frame, lol. You can do it any way you like, just make sure if it's opposite you flip the image in lightburn to compensate for the mirroring.
My cross hairs are right off. The ra2 is lined up to the rail perfect but cross hairs are not straight atall. How would I fix this mate? Thanks again 👍
there is adjustments for the crosshairs in the settings in lightburn. But honestly the crosshairs are just a guide...you can always fire the laser at like 3% and use the actual beam for alignment.
I love how real you are in your content! Thank you for the great examples. Just received my first ever laser machine and am ecstatic to get started. (Xtool D1 pro 20w) so this video is great! I do have one question you talk about settings and how they differ makes sense. What about jigs for the machines will they be different also for same make/model machines?
Jigs should be usable on any machine as they are based on the size needed for the product, and the product does not change. However, some jigs are made to fit certain laser machines, based on that machines dimensions. So if the jig is a free floating jig that you need to line up and align, it can be used on anything. If the jig mounts or affixes to the machine in anyway....that all depends on a lot of things.
I have 3 new machines since this video came out. :-) Speed over all else when it comes to my needs. That does not mean sacrifice quality at all, but speed is important when you get to the level of doing a few hundred cups per month on a regular basis. I bought a 130w co2 for doing large format signage and large scale mass productions. It's a finicky bastard for sure, but it sure is nice to lay down a sheet of plywood on that 5 foot bed and engrave/cut a few hundred ornaments at Christmas time. I bought a 80w co2 for doing tumblers. On the xTool it took an average of 12 minutes per cup for my wine tumblers, and longer for larger tumblers. On the 80w co2, it takes about 1:45 to do the wine tumbler. Huge difference. I went from taking a week to get orders done to the point where I can now pop out 200 a night easy if need be. I was gifted a Creality Falcon 2 40w diode laser in a non-formal partnership with Creality. I put it through lots of tests, beat it up, push it, and try out all kinds of things with it and I post some of that on my UA-cam channel. I still have a lot of testing planned for it, I'm just busy with orders now. It cuts fantastic, I can't say enough about it's cutting ability for a diode laser. Engraving...well...it's about on par with the other diodes. I still do not have a fiber laser, and I need one badly. I get a lot of requests for coins and guns and other metal work and a fiber laser is needed for that. But I'm buried in laser payments right now, so I can't get the fiber until I pay them off. If I had to do it all over again, knowing what I know now....I would have invested in a high quality mid-range co2 and a fiber laser. Contrary to what people say....there is no place for a diode laser as the main laser in an engraving business. I killed my xTool twice from what I can only state as overuse. It's not made to do the volume I was doing. You can do a nice little side hustle with the diodes...sure. You can make decent side money and even pay it off in a month or two. But if you scale up and keep using it for high volume...it will break. That's what co2's are for. Do I regret starting out with the diode? Not at all. It has been a hell of a ride and a great experience. Had its share of ups and downs, but in the end, it's a fine machine and capable of great things. I had no idea I'd even have a legitimate business when I bought it. My intention was to spend a month learning how to use it a bit, have some fun, and make some stuff to hopefully sell one day and try to get my money back by summer time. In the first month I was putting out decent products and people started asking for stuff. 2 months later it was paid for and I had landed 3 local companies as regular customers. 5 months later I needed another machine to handle the workload. 3 months after that, I needed another machine to dedicate to tumblers. It all started with the xTool D1 Pro 20w. It was my gateway drug into this maddening laser life. Thanks for stopping by and watching my video and thank you for your question.
At that crazy angle, I doubt that inch would amount to much...ha...that's what she said. :-) I have 4 other lasers now, so I don't do this method anymore.
Not sure what video you watched, but no paint thinner was used in this video. I used CitriStrip and I'd encourage you to check it out as it is a safe alternative to harsh chemicals. Thanks for stopping by and spreading the sarcasm though.
I subscribe to your channel, and I really enjoyed your video. I'm new to the laser world and I wanted to try the chalk paint out, and it worked out really nicely however the name I etched on it was reversed. When I looked at it from the inside the name was correct. When I previewed the job in Lightburn everything looked fine it just etched it backwards. What did I do wrong?
Hi, glad you enjoy the content. :-) You'll need to mirror the image. There is a check box in the rotary settings to mirror output to rotary. ;-) Or, if you have the rotary with the stepper on the left side, 180 it out and it will change the orientation of your cup as it relates and spins
Sooooo .... what are your settings again? And again ... and again. Solid video and as someone who is fluent in sarcasm, I appreciate your comments. You have a funny accent, though. 😂😂😂
Thanks for watching, and commenting. :-) Having travelled all over the country...my accent is a train wreck mix of southern, Texan, and now Mainer. lol Oh, and I'll glady give you settings if you submit your request on a crisp $100 bill.
It's been a while and I have a co2 machine that I do my glass work on now. But that logo, on glass, with the xtool took somewhere between 15 and 18 minutes.
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. The paint is what allows the laser to mark the glass. Without getting too far into the science of it, the wavelength of the diode laser doesn't allow for marking on transparent objects, like glass or clear acrylic. So they need to be masked with something that will have a reaction and allow the laser to etch. Google that question and you will get a lot of in depth answers that get further into it if you're curious, but the short laymen reason is "so we can mark a clear surface"
True, but I found that it holds better on the outside. I don't use that method as I bought 2 co2 machines. When I do use the xtool, I have a tilt mod that I got from Alivepixelcreates. It makes all that fuss go away. I have a 7 part video series on a review for that device on the channel.
I could have. At one point I was using one of those paint scraper wedge things...other have used door stops. I chose not to go that route for the sake of consistency. The more parts and pieces you introduce into the equation makes for more chances for something to move and throw off being square to the gantry. There are many makers out there who make 3d printed levelers and jigs to aid in this, and they are quite affordable; so I would rather just buy those than come up with make-shift homemade remedies, which is ultimately what I ended up doing. I bought a small leveling device for the rotary and then ended up getting a much nicer one...which I have a 7 part series on my channel about it where I review it from start to finish.
Can't let it go... Gravity does not change. The pivot point or center of balance is what you meant. Damnit... I never thought I'd be the dumbass annoying Karen. Great video though! Tons of useful and helpful information, so thank you!
@@IAmErnicus Haha no worries! Don't let a first time offender Karen bother you! I say dumb shit all the time on here. Don't drink and UA-cam kids, you'll end up a Karen!
@@lasersandbeyond Karen here, haha, keep posting good stuff! I quit drinking bud light so hopefully the Karen will wear off and I can live life without being the town bitch 😅
Paint the glass upside down or at least make a cardboard mask to prevent painting the stem and base your making more work for yourself. Also you know there is an inner set of chuck clamps so you don’t have to clamp the outside of the glass it holds from the inside 😅
Didn't listen to the part where I addressed that in the video huh? Where I said it was a test cup and I didn't care about masking, and for real jobs in production, I mask so as to limit overstay. I'm aware of the ability to clamp from the inside of the cup, I dont like doing it that way.
I am having difficulty with this glass...I can't get the chuck to hold it and the opening is too small to use the chuck inside. Any advice?@@lasersandbeyond
Still would not have been enough room. It's moot now, however, since I use my 80w co2 for cups and glassware. More than enough room in that machine. :-)
You're not wrong. lol. Well, it's not so much they ask "my" settings, but just asking for settings in general. I have people constantly asking my settings not even having the same machine....what good is me listing my 130w co2 settings going to do you with your 10w diode? lol. So silly. I love helping people, it's why I do what I do, I just wish folks would ask for help, not ask to be spoon fed. /rant
Is the laser usually that bright and flashy? I have epilepsy and that is a seizure waiting to happen! I have a GF unfortunately and am looking to get a new laser and it will NOT be a GF!
Thanks for video I'm looking to tackle a wine glass project today. I'm just starting out. Thanks also for test grid info. I need to make one. I haven't tried it yet, but found another guy that 3d printed an attachment for the ra2 pro that helps with adjusting objects to level like wine glasses. Embrace Making. Not sure if this link will work but it's to video on it. ua-cam.com/video/Znsc8WNEM04/v-deo.html
I bought one of those, but now I use something even better from alivepixelcreations it's the best rotary mod I've seen yet and makes leveling and setup so easy. I'll be uploading a review video soon.
Thanks for stopping by. I doubt that turning off my water will help the planet in any way shape or form that either me or my grand children's grandchildren would notice. I live in the country and use well water. So any water that goes down my drain, goes right back into the well eventually and then up and out of my faucets again.
Want a job with lots of hours an 0 pay? If so, you're hired. All jokes aside, I think there is a little more than 3 minutes of valuable information in there. I don't see the point of videos that just show an engraving happening with no information. ;-)
Well, opinions vary. One thing I will point out is that "setup values" don't exist. So that fact that you think it's dumb just proves you have no idea what you're doing and are the type that give out bad information. Setting up the machine, rotary, and everything else I went over, can be utilized by others on any device in any circumstance, which is why it was useful to some. "Settings", which I am sure is what you were eluding to using the verbiage "setup values" , are not transferable to anyone on any machine and even on those with the same machine, they are all different. What I use for settings won't work on another persons machine. I am pretty sure I said them in there somewhere, if not, it was 1500 speed and 100 power with 350 LPI. Now, on my replacement laser head, I use entirely different settings...same machine. Why? because they are all different. So, maybe now it won't seem so "dumb", although you by your response I'm sure you are just trolling so all of that fell on deaf ears anyway. thanks for your comment and have a great day.
Came across this video and I’m so glad I did! I love that you did hardly any editing. Makes the video more “real”! Just got my xTool laser and am eager to etch glass. This convinced me to go for it!
I subscribed because I love your honest approach! Thank you!!
Hi, thanks for noticing. The only thing I'm "trying" to do, is not be a carbon copy of everyone else. Ya, they make money and I don't, but I told myself to keep it real and just make videos.
one day I might get a more professional setup, but the gist will still be the same...me doing stuff and things.
I've had the XTool D1 Pro for months.. not even touched the rotary tool yet.. completely agree.. custom glasses for my family are on the Xmas list of ideas 😁👌
This method of using the Chalkboard Spray Paint was a game changer for me. it work so much better than the Brilliance brand in my opinion. Thanks for this video.
Hi there. I am glad you found the video useful. :-) I have to say, I do still love this paint for doing glass....number 1 in my book.
This was also was the key for me to get great engravings as well! I've watched he'd and tried many things and this was by far the best I've seen for a diode. Thanks for the great help!
I agree with you on the finishes on the glass, A frosted look is much better, than a spotty look. Thanks for the video
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. :-)
I’m only halfway through your video (first time viewer) and I have to say I’m already a fan! You are so real.
Hi. Thanks. I told myself when I started doing videos I was just going to be me and do what I do and say what I say, not be fake and bouncy and full of click bait pretend hype.
Sure, being this way I'm sure I'll never get a sponsor or make a ton of money, but that's cool. Not why I do it anyway.
:-)
Thanks for noticing and commenting on that aspect of the videos.
I will be working to have a better quality of videos, but that comesbwith money...lol...so it might be a while.
@@lasersandbeyond i TOTALLY AGREE with @megkoos4260!!! im saying the SAME THING SHE SAID (im at 19:14), i think you COULD have done it the way you had it set up (with the bottom in the chuck) you just needed to shim up the legs of the laser, you can go as vertical as you want with these the IMPORTANT THING is how far away the laser is from the material your working on. do you and put out good content like your doing and youll get the sponsors and money to do this professionally but to begin with this is a passion project and from what ive seen in the first 20 min you DEFF have the passion and the likeability
Thanks for the kind words.
The days of propping things up and building laser Jenna stands are over. Lol.
I've since obtained a kickers rotary mod I can use on the xtool, and I bought a 130w co2 as well as an 80w co2. :-)
side note, if your ganna do any kind of mass production of them i would suggest getting a box of latex gloves so you dont have to wash your hands EVERY TIME YOU CLEAN A GLASS, im up to 48:00 min and it looks AWESOME!!!
@noneyabiz1020 I don't have to paint them anymore, I have 2 co2 machines now. 1 of them specifically for tumblers and glassware.
Great video!
I would add:
1. invert the glass so that the top is on the cardboard to cover up the mouth/opening of the glass
2. Instead of using the external Single Step Jaw for the vise using the internal Double Step Jaw to secure the glass from the interior so you have more surface area to engrave.
Keep up the great content!! 😀
Thanks for watching!
CitriStrip...amazing. I engraved 14 glasses the other day and it took forever to clean with acetone. NICE!!!!!
I love my citristrip. :-)
One of my favorite things to have on hand at all times.
I really loved your video.
You actually answered so many of the questions I had that were left out of other videos.
I'm in Australia and use mm's.
Go you......
I'm glad you liked the video, thanks for watching and commenting. :-)
Enjoyed the video. I've converted a hell of a lot of wood into smoke making test grids but like you said everybody's stuff is different. Received a rotary tool for Christmas have not used it yet, still getting comfortable with flat stuff. I'll look up your web site. Keep the videos coming!
Awesome, thanks for stopping by. Get that rotary spinning up man!
51:30 Best advice for beginners. Great video and thank you for your time and efforts!
Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for the time stamp for others to jump to a great section.
Great job🙌 Thank you. Finally found somebody doing this with Xtool D1 pro 20 watt.
Hi there, thanks for watching! I will be doing more tumblers soon as some members from our facebook group requested to go over some colors they have issues with. I will be doing even more glassware as well in the coming months as I have a few jobs lined up that I'll share with you guys.
Would this work with a 10w as well?
It can, just takes longer
Thanks so much for the effort you put in explaining everything. I am new to the laser world as of this week and really trying to study hard to hit the ground running with as few avoidable mistakes as possible. Your suggestion to increase the test size to examine larger area results is something I haven't seen anywhere else, thank you. Also, really enjoyed watching you with the chuck. I have one that I haven't taken out of the box yet, I'm glad I didn't because I think I would have thought I struggled too much with it. After seeing your addressing the wine glass will give me much more patience when I get it out soon!
I do want to express my concern for your exposure to chemicals. I have high sensitivity because when I was younger I did not respect just how much I was absorbing through skin and breathing. I really hope you will consider wearing gloves and spraying outside. Don't mean to mama you but want to look out for you!
Thanks again for your generosity with your time and knowledge! Merry Christmas!
Thanks for watching!
Looks great. I have not tried glass yet but will try soon. I have started engraving rings using the IR module. I have just received a RA2 tilt mechanism from Embrace Making and it makes tilting the RA2 a lot easier. It will tilt up to +/- 40 degrees.
Ya that tilt makes thing so much easier. I'll be doing another video using it so folks can see.
The one from embrace is nice, I used it for a while, but now that I have the Rotary Mod from Alive Pixel Creations, I'll never use anything else. Check out my video series on it. It's amazing.
Excellent video. I get my machine today and hope to pop off some test grids soon. I also joined your Facebook page so hopefully I can get going in the right direction. Thanks for time, Rich!
Awesome, thank you!
Awesome video, love the being real and calling it what it is. Next thing i will try on my xtool. Thank you for the education.
Thanks for watching and commenting. :-)
Going to bone up on the GIG's that you have hanging on the wall.
That's where I need to learn a shit load.
You are my new bestie...
Jigs and templates are key for mass production or just regular repetitive production. It helps tremendously.
Thanks for the video. The advice to the noobs like me is well received. Also, The focus on low cost supplies is great. The engraver and roller is out of my budget right now. What are your thoughts on the Comgrow Z1 5W laser and roller? Doable?
Hi there, thanks for watching. Honestly, you're going to be on the struggle bus with a 5w laser. Prices keep coming down and down, so hang in there.
I guess a new laser module has to go on my Christmas list. Any suggestions?
@@idmnstr really depends on budget and usage. Hobby, business, high volume, focusing on specific materials ie. glass? slate? wood? etc.
Just a thought. Maybe spray the glasses upside down. Guaranteed you won’t gat anything inside the glass!
I hadn't even considered that. Lol.
Since I have my co2 now, I no longer have to paint them, but that's a great idea for those with a diode.
True story. :-)
You don't have to be french to use metric, I'm English and we use metric here because like the rest of the world we know it's a far easier and superior form of universal measurement. It's good to see a lot of laser channels use metric in the videos because it means us in the rest of the world can follow your content
It was sarcasm, French was just the first nationality that popped into my head. You don't seriously believe I thought only the French used metric, right? Lol
I prefer using the metric system with the laser because it allows me to be more precise, and I can do that math in my head easily.
@@IAmErnicus no I guessed it was but just had to comment because I know a lot of Americans seem to think it's blasphemy to use metric. My comment was more aimed at your viewers just to let them know that it's ok to use metric 😂 I guess my comment wasn't worded very well, it's early,I've just woken up. Anyway good video. Oh and after you mentioned only seeing the chalkboard paint in black I looked on Amazon to buy some and sorted ty do a clear version, I assume it's to paint over wherever you have to enable use with chalk. I'm still not at the end of your video as I type this. I'm about to try my first glass engraving on some old jars when I can find my black paint. It is just mat black paint I use on my guns but I'm just testing the water and it's what I have here
@@squirrelmanbob nice, let me know how it comes out. :-)
@@IAmErnicus will do, nothing got done yesterday because I was getting ready for a new arrival, I rescue animals, mainly rabbits these days. I had message about a giant breed who was going to be released into a forest because the people didn't want her, I don't know if they didn't expect her to get this big but she is only 7 months old and bigger than my neighbours dog, she still has about another year to grow. I've only just got the D1 pro and RA2 pro a few das ago,I haven't even assembled the RA2 yet or hooked up my air assist. It's not the xtools air assist I have a pump I used to use for bubbling my biodiesel when I made it so I saved money on the pump. I'm guessing with the new arrival it won't be for a few days until I get to trying it out.
Life loves to get in the way of our lasering. :-)
Great video. I think it might be easier to raise the glasses if you make a jig that has 2 pieces of wood with an hinge on the right side. Then you could use wedges or maybe a screw under the top board on the left to level the rotary jig. You could also make a jig to raise it the other way or dual jig with 3 boards and 2 hinges to lift either side.
I have a new mechanism on the rotary that allows me to use different angles, so no propping up needed anymore. I'll do another video on that soon.
No need for that anymore. Check out my Rotary Mod video series. ;-)
thank you for the info i tested with chalkboard paint. YASSS it left them beautiful. the tempura paint was good but this is sooooo much better thank you
You're welcome. I try to tell folks, it's the best. Not all listen, so that's ok. More than one way to do things. But if you're like me, and it sounds like you are, I go with results as they trump popular opinion. :-)
Thanks for the video and the paint tip - I will give it a try.
Np, did you have any luck?
Didn't try it yet but hope to soon - just been so busy lately.
Great Video, great advice. I will be giving your method a go. I have the S1 40W, I will try and let you know how I got on :)
Please do! I'm always curious of others' successes or failures when utilizing something I talk about. :-)
Thanks very much for this video and sharing your experiences! So helpful. And appreciated. I tried it this afternoon on a thin-ish wine glass using your settings as a start, and got a fine crack. Heard it while engraving😮. Do you think turning speed up or power down a bit might avoid this? Thanks again!
Hi, thanks for watching. Unfortunately, when using a diode laser you really need the power to make the etch. You could try upping the speed, but the real issue is the glassware you chose. I find the best stuff is the cheap stuff, no bullshit. Dollar store glassware is great. Tempered glass is bad. Expensive glass is bad. Really thin glass, is bad.
Understood. Thanks again. You Rock!
Awesome video.. what are your settings, what color paint is on your walls, why is your window shade open half way, why do you have a hat on, how come you don’t wear glass’s… there.. .did I cover all of the questions now?.. LOL!! Only kidding, hate questions after questions myself.. But just hope this made you smile today Ernie!! Great video and will watch some more.. thanks for the Chalk tip.. Cleans off better than regular rustoleum!! Cheers!!
:-) thanks for making me smile. Yes, the chalkboard spray paint is wonderful. Not only is it super easy to clean off, but it makes for a great engraving as well.
FYI: Tempura comes from Sushi Bars and Tempera Paint from Hobby Lobby. I have found the very best pain for glass engraving is Rust-Oleum Camouflage Black. it is also possible to remove it in hot water with a scrubbing brush, avoiding solvents altogether. A bit more messy than "tempura" paints but not as bad as having to use solvents and gives a great result!
So is this the part where I point out your spelling faux pas too? lol. I mean, I'm not sure about wanting the "best pain for glass engraving"...I'd rather it be pain free. ;-)
thanks for stopping by and having a little fun at my expense. Lord knows I give plenty of opportunity for it. lol
Your video was very helpful we have a Xtool D1 Pro 10w and the last few glasses we have done have either pealed off or rubbed while cleaning. Do you know why this would happen?
Without knowing your entire situation, no. However, most chipping/flaking of the engraved area comes from using too much power. Try going lighter and/or faster adjusting the other variable accordingly.
Thanks for the video. I'm trying to get a champagne glass just right for my daughter's wedding. I'm using cold galvanizing compound, settings are different than yours...I'm still playing around with those. I keep getting black dots in the engraving. Do you think that'd be because of the cg spray instead of chalk board paint or my settings, or both? I'm using xtool 20w also. Also, just turn the glasses upside down when spraying them so no paint gets inside.
Glav comp is terrible in all aspects. From quality to safety. You will get some folks, even youtubers, using it saying it's the best thing out there. They are just plain wrong. I said what I said. lol.
I use Rustoleum chalkboard spray paint in the video, and in all my glass work. I've tried everything and this produces the best and whitest white for me. I also like to hit my glass harder than most, and I get good results from it as seen in the video.
Good luck.
@Ernie Parrow I tried chalk paint that you recommended and cleaned my laser (I always forget to clean it), and it came out PERFECT! I'm done with CGC from here on out. Thanks a whole bunch for the tips and detailed video. After cleaning the laser (dumbass, why can't I remember to do that??) your settings worked for me, too. Highly appreciated, brotha. Thanks again.
Very cool, I'm glad you got great results!
That's awesome that you used the chalkboard spray and has success!
Dude I subscribed to you because I think your video is awesome.
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it.
Thanks for teaching this technique. Looked great! My only concern is if it is safe to wash all those chemicals down the drain to the drinking water supply? Maybe wash in a bucket and not return to the drinking water supply?
It's paint, hardly a harsh chemical. Citristrip is nowhere near a harsh chemical, it's actual designed as a better alternative to chemicals. I appreciate the view and the comment.
@@lasersandbeyond thanks for clearing up my concern.
I find that paint thinner works to get the paint off my glass fairly easily. Maybe for a bulk order you could just dunk the glasses in bucket of the stuff. :)
True it works well, but I dontblike messing with many chemicals if I don't have to, so I use citristrip. Smells better too.
But paint8ng will be a thing of the past for me soon as I have a co2 laser on its way to me. :-)
I haven't messed with anything that needs to be food grade, but break cleaner works instantly. Same thing as paint thinner pretty much, but being in a spray can is a lot handier than opening a can up and having to close it!
Citristrip comes in a spray can. Great stuff. No harsh fumes.
do you calculate and use width x 1.086 to offset the optical illusion of the image being squished horizontally when engraving on a cylinder? Lettering isn't affected quite as much as images. works quite well.
No, I don't believe in accounting for illusions, I believe in exact.
Unpopular I know, but it works.
If I want my image to be 3 inches, it will be 3 inches.
This goes for circles, ovals, lettering, etc.
The problem is most folks don't account for altering circumference. So they put a 3 inch circle in their software, burn it, and it comes out awkward oval-shaped and not 3 inches.
This is because they did not account for the circumference value in their software.
I don't believe in altering the image, you leave the image alone and alter to tools you are using to burn your image.
Nope. I make sure my image on my cup is exactly same width as on screen. I don't alter images for appearances.
Hello kind sir. How do you prevent your engravings from chipping? I currently am using 100% power and 50mms. The fastest I can get my speed is 400. I am using XCS, does lightburn allow you to go faster? Please help!
There is no way to prevent chipping other than doing the engraving correctly. Improper engravings chip, proper engravings do not. I know that is not very helpful, but that is the reality of it. There is nothing you can do after the fact to prevent chipping.
Thank you. My grid test wasn't very helpful, I'll try it bigger next time. I may have to subscribe with light burn then.
You sure do sound like “Steve Wallis”. Love your content. New sub today.
Hi, thanks for stopping by. 🙂
I don't know if that's a good thing or a bad thing as I don't know who steve walls is....lol
thanks for the great video.
By the way, what software are you using? ? ?
The genuine software cannot do glass edging. . .
Hi, thanks for stopping by. I use Lightburn on all my lasers.
Turned out pretty damn good 👍
Thanks. :-) I have to admit, I was pretty happy with that one.
put your rotary grip IN the glass and expand out, put little rubber or felt tabs between the glass and rotary arms. Now you have a completely open work area and are no longer limited in the width and could go all the way around the glass if desired.
I get slippage when I use the inside and with this logo, it fits between the arms so it's a non-issue.
I love you idea with the chalk board paint I just ordered mine, thank you for your videos, I'm just starting out as well and I can take all the advise by the way what set up do you use for fume evacuation from your room thank you in advance. Can't wait for your next video Cheers
Glad you find the information useful. :-)
I've uploaded a lot since this comment. I hope they've been useful. :-)
Great work. Diameter = circumference divided by pi. Circumference = diameter x pi. hopefully helpful. Would hinging the bottom of the rotator help. Would cut down movement while changing glasses, and help with the gravity problem.
No idea what I said in the video that made you feel I would need equations posted to me, lol. I say wrong stuff all the time while making videos...I'm not a good youtuber. :-) I don't use this machine anymore for much of anything as I now have a 80w co2 that I do all my work on that requires a rotary and I use the piburn4 grip rotary, which is far superior than the one in this video. All of those setup struggles are now a thing of the past.
Great video. Does the test grid come with the software?
No, I bought that test grid off etsy. There are a lot out there, just type 'test grid' in the search. I think I paid 2 bucks.
Hello, Great video . I will try the engrave a glass. I notice jig templates on the wall. Did you do them yourself?
I made those jigs using the jig system from @TheClackShack . Visit his UA-cam channel and check him out. He sells the jig system and all you need for it on his etsy page as well as other cool stuff.
Could be a dumb question, but why do you have your rotary attachment upside down? I kept reading that you need to have the words legible to the front of the machine. I did that and my image engraved in mirror. is this your work around for that?
Yeah, don't believe everything you read online...even though this is text...and you're reading it...lol. I initially put it that way because the plug was over on that side of the frame, lol. You can do it any way you like, just make sure if it's opposite you flip the image in lightburn to compensate for the mirroring.
@@lasersandbeyond thank you!
My cross hairs are right off. The ra2 is lined up to the rail perfect but cross hairs are not straight atall. How would I fix this mate? Thanks again 👍
there is adjustments for the crosshairs in the settings in lightburn. But honestly the crosshairs are just a guide...you can always fire the laser at like 3% and use the actual beam for alignment.
Why didn’t you raise your frame? When you ran out of leveling space?
I figured it would have been more hassle than it was worth, plus at such a large angle...I think it would have suffered stability issues.
I love how real you are in your content! Thank you for the great examples. Just received my first ever laser machine and am ecstatic to get started. (Xtool D1 pro 20w) so this video is great! I do have one question you talk about settings and how they differ makes sense. What about jigs for the machines will they be different also for same make/model machines?
Jigs should be usable on any machine as they are based on the size needed for the product, and the product does not change. However, some jigs are made to fit certain laser machines, based on that machines dimensions. So if the jig is a free floating jig that you need to line up and align, it can be used on anything. If the jig mounts or affixes to the machine in anyway....that all depends on a lot of things.
If you were to invest in a new machine, what changes do you wish you had done? I.e. higher wattage, faster scan rate, etc.
I have 3 new machines since this video came out. :-)
Speed over all else when it comes to my needs. That does not mean sacrifice quality at all, but speed is important when you get to the level of doing a few hundred cups per month on a regular basis.
I bought a 130w co2 for doing large format signage and large scale mass productions. It's a finicky bastard for sure, but it sure is nice to lay down a sheet of plywood on that 5 foot bed and engrave/cut a few hundred ornaments at Christmas time.
I bought a 80w co2 for doing tumblers. On the xTool it took an average of 12 minutes per cup for my wine tumblers, and longer for larger tumblers. On the 80w co2, it takes about 1:45 to do the wine tumbler. Huge difference. I went from taking a week to get orders done to the point where I can now pop out 200 a night easy if need be.
I was gifted a Creality Falcon 2 40w diode laser in a non-formal partnership with Creality. I put it through lots of tests, beat it up, push it, and try out all kinds of things with it and I post some of that on my UA-cam channel. I still have a lot of testing planned for it, I'm just busy with orders now. It cuts fantastic, I can't say enough about it's cutting ability for a diode laser. Engraving...well...it's about on par with the other diodes.
I still do not have a fiber laser, and I need one badly. I get a lot of requests for coins and guns and other metal work and a fiber laser is needed for that. But I'm buried in laser payments right now, so I can't get the fiber until I pay them off.
If I had to do it all over again, knowing what I know now....I would have invested in a high quality mid-range co2 and a fiber laser.
Contrary to what people say....there is no place for a diode laser as the main laser in an engraving business. I killed my xTool twice from what I can only state as overuse. It's not made to do the volume I was doing.
You can do a nice little side hustle with the diodes...sure. You can make decent side money and even pay it off in a month or two. But if you scale up and keep using it for high volume...it will break. That's what co2's are for.
Do I regret starting out with the diode? Not at all. It has been a hell of a ride and a great experience. Had its share of ups and downs, but in the end, it's a fine machine and capable of great things.
I had no idea I'd even have a legitimate business when I bought it. My intention was to spend a month learning how to use it a bit, have some fun, and make some stuff to hopefully sell one day and try to get my money back by summer time.
In the first month I was putting out decent products and people started asking for stuff. 2 months later it was paid for and I had landed 3 local companies as regular customers. 5 months later I needed another machine to handle the workload. 3 months after that, I needed another machine to dedicate to tumblers.
It all started with the xTool D1 Pro 20w. It was my gateway drug into this maddening laser life.
Thanks for stopping by and watching my video and thank you for your question.
Have you tried removing the honeycomb from under it? That should give you at least another 1/4 inch.
At that crazy angle, I doubt that inch would amount to much...ha...that's what she said. :-)
I have 4 other lasers now, so I don't do this method anymore.
that 1/4 inch would not really do much. I have other lasers now for these so I don't have to worry about this anymore. :-)
Nothing like rubbing paint thinner and paint with your bare skin then washing it down the sink 😅
Not sure what video you watched, but no paint thinner was used in this video. I used CitriStrip and I'd encourage you to check it out as it is a safe alternative to harsh chemicals. Thanks for stopping by and spreading the sarcasm though.
Wicked Awesome Video 😎👌🩵
Thanks 😁
I subscribe to your channel, and I really enjoyed your video. I'm new to the laser world and I wanted to try the chalk paint out, and it worked out really nicely however the name I etched on it was reversed. When I looked at it from the inside the name was correct. When I previewed the job in Lightburn everything looked fine it just etched it backwards. What did I do wrong?
Hi, glad you enjoy the content. :-)
You'll need to mirror the image. There is a check box in the rotary settings to mirror output to rotary. ;-)
Or, if you have the rotary with the stepper on the left side, 180 it out and it will change the orientation of your cup as it relates and spins
Thank you For the advice, that was the problem I had. I made the correction and it worked fine. Thank you so much, you helped me with this headache.
Awesome, glad it's all worked out for you. :-)
Sooooo .... what are your settings again? And again ... and again.
Solid video and as someone who is fluent in sarcasm, I appreciate your comments. You have a funny accent, though. 😂😂😂
Thanks for watching, and commenting. :-) Having travelled all over the country...my accent is a train wreck mix of southern, Texan, and now Mainer. lol
Oh, and I'll glady give you settings if you submit your request on a crisp $100 bill.
I'd like to know how long it actually took once engraving started ?
It's been a while and I have a co2 machine that I do my glass work on now.
But that logo, on glass, with the xtool took somewhere between 15 and 18 minutes.
Should have mentioned on a 20 Watt diode Xtool and it takes for ever with about 20 passes to get something decent. Appreciate response @IAmErnicus...
@@chelsasdad I used the xtool d1 pro 20w for that glass in the video, one pass. Just gotta go slow and hit it hard.
depending on logo/images used, 12 to 20 minutes or so.
Many thanks great video 👏👏👏👏
Glad you enjoyed it
I have a can of the green chalk board spray... :) PS their high temp spray paint also goes on super thin and matt too...
I still haven't seen the green, lol...but I know it does exist.
@@lasersandbeyondIt is pretty godawful, I didn't check the colour before I left the store.
Yeah, that always seems to work!
:-)
What function does the paint serve??
Hi, thanks for watching and commenting. The paint is what allows the laser to mark the glass. Without getting too far into the science of it, the wavelength of the diode laser doesn't allow for marking on transparent objects, like glass or clear acrylic.
So they need to be masked with something that will have a reaction and allow the laser to etch.
Google that question and you will get a lot of in depth answers that get further into it if you're curious, but the short laymen reason is "so we can mark a clear surface"
are the burns dishwasher safe?
Yes, it is permanently marking the glass, can't rub off or wash off.
yup
Very nice job.
Thank you!
merci, you can put the hook reversed inside the hole of the glass....maybe
True, but I found that it holds better on the outside. I don't use that method as I bought 2 co2 machines. When I do use the xtool, I have a tilt mod that I got from Alivepixelcreates. It makes all that fuss go away. I have a 7 part video series on a review for that device on the channel.
How long does it take to engrave a glass?
I can do a glass in 3 or 4 minutes nowadays, but I have a couple co2 machines for that. ;-)
On the xtool it was about 15 minutes or so.
You could also make a wedge for levelling?😊
I could have. At one point I was using one of those paint scraper wedge things...other have used door stops. I chose not to go that route for the sake of consistency. The more parts and pieces you introduce into the equation makes for more chances for something to move and throw off being square to the gantry.
There are many makers out there who make 3d printed levelers and jigs to aid in this, and they are quite affordable; so I would rather just buy those than come up with make-shift homemade remedies, which is ultimately what I ended up doing. I bought a small leveling device for the rotary and then ended up getting a much nicer one...which I have a 7 part series on my channel about it where I review it from start to finish.
Can't let it go... Gravity does not change. The pivot point or center of balance is what you meant. Damnit... I never thought I'd be the dumbass annoying Karen. Great video though! Tons of useful and helpful information, so thank you!
I often say the wrong words, most understand the jist of the comment of the moment. Lol, I don't have time to edit out the dumb shit I say. :-)
@@IAmErnicus Haha no worries! Don't let a first time offender Karen bother you! I say dumb shit all the time on here. Don't drink and UA-cam kids, you'll end up a Karen!
thanks Karen, I mean @theamaturepro1647 lol. Hopefully it didn't bore you to death...long video for sure.
@@lasersandbeyond Karen here, haha, keep posting good stuff! I quit drinking bud light so hopefully the Karen will wear off and I can live life without being the town bitch 😅
Great info, love it. SUBBED.
thanks. :-)
Paint the glass upside down or at least make a cardboard mask to prevent painting the stem and base your making more work for yourself. Also you know there is an inner set of chuck clamps so you don’t have to clamp the outside of the glass it holds from the inside 😅
Didn't listen to the part where I addressed that in the video huh? Where I said it was a test cup and I didn't care about masking, and for real jobs in production, I mask so as to limit overstay.
I'm aware of the ability to clamp from the inside of the cup, I dont like doing it that way.
I am having difficulty with this glass...I can't get the chuck to hold it and the opening is too small to use the chuck inside. Any advice?@@lasersandbeyond
awesome
Thanks for watching. Glad you like it!
How come you just didn't take your honeycomb out to lower the glass.
Still would not have been enough room. It's moot now, however, since I use my 80w co2 for cups and glassware. More than enough room in that machine. :-)
the cermark have a product called cermark ceramic and glass, works well
Normally I get the Cermark Ultra. I have not got the one specifically for glass. I use the Blaze Orange from JDS, works great on my c02 machine.
Hey Dude I’ve got a laser pecker Duce and use marker and painters tape ……I think your techniques sound better ..Thanks
How do you like that pecker? I've been curious of those are worth it...seem pretty cool.
How do you like the laser pecker? I like watching their ads.
very nice
Thanks.
What is your FB page?
facebook.com/groups/552428990283321
No paper towels? Use one of the wipers there!
lol, didn't think of that..
I may be going on a limb here but I have a feeling he doesn't like when people ask what are his settings. Could be wrong...
You're not wrong. lol.
Well, it's not so much they ask "my" settings, but just asking for settings in general. I have people constantly asking my settings not even having the same machine....what good is me listing my 130w co2 settings going to do you with your 10w diode? lol. So silly.
I love helping people, it's why I do what I do, I just wish folks would ask for help, not ask to be spoon fed.
/rant
English measurements are millimetres 😊 but excellent video 👍
Sarcasm doesn't always translate well over the interwebs....lol I say dumb shit on purpose 90% of the time
You spelled it wrong. lol /sarcasm
Is the laser usually that bright and flashy? I have epilepsy and that is a seizure waiting to happen!
I have a GF unfortunately and am looking to get a new laser and it will NOT be a GF!
ya, you want to wear glasses or def have a shield of some sort, or don't stare at it. It's bright.
Thanks for video I'm looking to tackle a wine glass project today. I'm just starting out. Thanks also for test grid info. I need to make one. I haven't tried it yet, but found another guy that 3d printed an attachment for the ra2 pro that helps with adjusting objects to level like wine glasses. Embrace Making. Not sure if this link will work but it's to video on it. ua-cam.com/video/Znsc8WNEM04/v-deo.html
I purchased one of those from embrace a month ago. Great device.
I bought one of those, but now I use something even better from alivepixelcreations it's the best rotary mod I've seen yet and makes leveling and setup so easy. I'll be uploading a review video soon.
Buen video amigo pero deberías cerrar el agua cuando no la utilizas, ayudarás al planeta. Disculpa mi atrevimiento
Thanks for stopping by. I doubt that turning off my water will help the planet in any way shape or form that either me or my grand children's grandchildren would notice. I live in the country and use well water. So any water that goes down my drain, goes right back into the well eventually and then up and out of my faucets again.
taller legs !!
Needed a bigger boat. Bought one. Non-issue anymore.
I could cut that video down to 3 minutes..
Please do, I suck at making videos short and presentable. lol. I'm trying to edit a review I did now for a product and it's so damn long....lol
Want a job with lots of hours an 0 pay? If so, you're hired. All jokes aside, I think there is a little more than 3 minutes of valuable information in there. I don't see the point of videos that just show an engraving happening with no information. ;-)
Seems kind of dumb to me. Don't want to give out setup values, but spent a full hour on how to setup everything else. What a waste of time.
Well, opinions vary. One thing I will point out is that "setup values" don't exist. So that fact that you think it's dumb just proves you have no idea what you're doing and are the type that give out bad information.
Setting up the machine, rotary, and everything else I went over, can be utilized by others on any device in any circumstance, which is why it was useful to some.
"Settings", which I am sure is what you were eluding to using the verbiage "setup values" , are not transferable to anyone on any machine and even on those with the same machine, they are all different. What I use for settings won't work on another persons machine. I am pretty sure I said them in there somewhere, if not, it was 1500 speed and 100 power with 350 LPI. Now, on my replacement laser head, I use entirely different settings...same machine. Why? because they are all different.
So, maybe now it won't seem so "dumb", although you by your response I'm sure you are just trolling so all of that fell on deaf ears anyway.
thanks for your comment and have a great day.
nice do u live in the PNW perchance
No idea what that is, so I'm gonna have to say no. lol
@@IAmErnicus pacific northwest, idk there's a big wine scene around where i live
@@x0j lol oh, I'm dumb. No, I live in Maine. One of my best customers is a local winery.
Nope, ENE