Great Video, I think from what I saw I will be trying the tempru methods, they came out the best to my view, except the tissue paper, sure is nice to have an in depth video to learn what to do, thanks for the info.
New to engraving and your video answered questions for me. Video is easy to follow, and explanations are understandable. Thank you for taking your time to create the content.
Thank you soooo much for putting this together. I’m a newbie. I tried the Rustoleum spray paint method with black and white matte colors. The black had white etching and the white black etching! And if you run it under hot water, it breaks down and peels off with having to really use acetone. Again, wonderful job!
As the white paint contains Titanium Dioxide, it will burn black/dark when heated. The heated TiS02 will BOND to the glass or tile and have a black finish....
Thank you- the detailed video tend to be a little longer and I think it really helps people learn how to use their laser machines! Thanks for watching!
excellent presentation, congratulations and thank you for all your time and effort, I am a beginner with laser engraving, I am precisely interested in glass engraving and this video taught me a LOT. So really thank you, suer well explained and detailed
Great video and presentation/comparisons. Well thought out and demonstrated. I'm a newbie with an OLM3 I received in November and glad your channel popped up. You earned yourself a like and a new subscriber. Looking forward to checking out some of your other videos tomorrow! Larry in KY
Thanks for showing all the different methods. Have only tried the brush-on tempera paint until now and got good result with it, but will definitely also try one of your other suggestions.
Thanks for your time making this. Why is it the best ones are always the hardest and messiest. I like the chalk one, this is the first time I've seen that. But the backer board is nice and so clean and easy. Could you do more DPI on it?
You're welcome- thanks for watching! I've found really high DPI did not add more resolution or sharpness to my engravings because the size of one engraving dot on glass is rather large. It's always a great idea to experiment around and find the best settings that work for you! Have a great day!
Thanks! Yes- the transfer method of using black poster board with the clear glass on top can run into issues if the glass is really thick. In this case using a masking agent like the tempura paint on the surface closest to the laser is a better option.
Thank you for this thoughtful presentation. I followed the link for the Atomstack A20. How do you laser a glass cup if the working height is 22mm as listed for this machine?
You're welcome! When engraving glassware I use a rotary unit from AtomStack that comes with leg extensions to lift the machine up to clear the glassware and the rotary unit! Here's a video with the leg extensions shown: ua-cam.com/video/GYs_GYCX6ow/v-deo.html I recommend the rotary that includes the flat rollers and the rotary chuck! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. I bought the spray chalk paint you recommended. I was expecting it to spray “wider” like a spray paint, but it seems to spray very “straight/thick/heavy” and makes it incredibly difficult to get an even coating, am I missing something something obvious? Thanks!
I found your video to be really interesting. I am having trouble engraving glass with my diode laser engraver. It is the xTool F1. I tried a few methods with varying degrees of success. I tried tempura paint which I applied with a foam brush but that gave an uneven texture to the engraving. I then bought a Preval sprayer, which is an aerosol spray can with a tube that comes out of the bottom into a jar that you fill with liquid and you can spray onto surfaces. The watered down tempura paint went on a lot more evenly but still there was a ragged texture to the finished engraving. Finally I bought a bottle of matt black chalk acrylic paint and watered it down and sprayed that onto the glass. I was on evenly and had a much less shiny finish, but still there was a ragged unevenness to the finished engraving, particularly at the edges of the engraving. From your video you said your diode engraver was a 20 watt machine, the xTool F1 is a 10 watt machine. Do you think it is not powerful enough for a clean result in glass engraving? Thank you for your time.
Hi and thank you for the compliment- glad you enjoy the videos. When I sprayed the watered down tempura paint- the fist coat was just a very super light dusting- another 2-3 coats and I had an even coat. As you found out an even coat of the masking agent is key to a uniform engraving. The masking agent and the glass will effect the engraving texture. A 10 watt laser is plenty to engrave glass! If you find you're still struggling I would recommend posting the Xtool Facebook user group- you'll be able to post photos/video of your settings and results- it's a very knowledgeable and responsive group! Best wishes!
I have used a 40 watt S1 from xtools and the chalk spray color RED. and i used the same settings accept 160 lines. Your chalk engraving looked a bit whiter than my is a little gray Do you think the color of the chalk would matter?... By the way i love your video en different test methodes
Hi- I've found the color of the spray chalk does have a slight affect on the engraving color. The lines per inch will also have an affect on the engraving texture which may also affect the color. Thanks for watching!
I haven't engraved ceramics too much. Each type of ceramic and coating are different. I would recommend running materials test chart to find the best settings for your setup and material!
Hello, I really enjoy following your videos. I'm writing to ask for your advice on something. I'm using a KT10 3W laser machine, and I've tried Black, Yellow, Blue, and Green paper on glass, but they all burn, and I end up with a white/grey result. When I tried Red and Grey paper, I achieved perfect colors. I can't understand the difference. Do you have a setup recommendation for Black, Yellow, Blue, and Green papers on glass
Thanks! For the papers- are you just looking to transfer the energy of the laser to the glass to engrave a frosted white look? I've only used 1-2 colors for this method - I stopped when I found a method that works :) I do know that different colors of paper will react differently with the laser diode machines- and will need different settings.
@@thelaserchannel1 First of all, thank you for your quick response. I want to reveal the color of the paper on glass, but the color is not coming out. It turns grey/white, probably because the paper is burning. I increase the speed and lower the power, but then the design doesn’t stick to the glass. I can’t seem to figure it out. Here’s an example video. I can’t seem to achieve a proper black tone, or the quality is poor. What would you recommend for a 3W machine? I want to design glasses as a hobby. Example video: ua-cam.com/users/shorts6Avt6zIrZ-A
@@magnogkilla Ok- I understand. I haven't used the color engraving papers. I've only used paper/ poster board to use the transfer method for engraving the glass. I wonder if you post on Facebook to one of the laser groups that someone would have some pointers for you? Best wishes!
@@thelaserchannel1 I figured out what was wrong. The colored paper I was using was of poor quality. All the products from the seller disappeared at once. I got a refund. I changed the paper, and the problem was solved. Thank you for taking the time anyway.
First thank you for making this video! Help! I tried tne black cardstock transfer method. I have to engrave twenty square vases with the same image. I have an Xtool M1. The first one turned out perfectly well. The second and third head too much scorching even though I used the same settings. The third, barely engraved at all. What about doing wrong?
Thanks for watching! I wonder if the laser lens is clean- sounds like it is but I like to double check. Maybe the card stock is not sitting 100% tight against the glass. I have had very consistent results spraying tempera paint on the outside of the glass/vase. Kids sidewalk spray chalk from Testors also works great and applies faster than tempura paint. Best wishes!
1- Yes- any brush marks will create a different engraving texture- this might be a neat effect. 2- to color fill use a mask like tempera paint of tack paper- after engraving apply the paint then remove the mask! Thanks for watching!
I need to try method 4 and 5. I do a lot of engraving on glasses for breweries ( just finished a batch of 300) and do not use any masking or even water. Will be interesting to see the results and how much time it adds to production. Right now I engrave, lighting sand to take off glass shards, and then box them for the customer. Then they throw them all in a commercial glass washer to clean them. I have two 40W CO2 lasers and one 50W CO2 laser. Thanks.
CO2 uses a longer wavelength of light and it cannot "see through" regular silica glass, so doesn't need the coating like the diode lasers do. If you play with an IR camera you will notice it cannot see thru a window.
Hi- painted surfaces I have the paint facing up towards the laser. The only transfer method with the Cold Galvanizing paint has the material under the glass and the focus set to the bottom side of the glass- I do not recommend using Cold Galvanizing paint because of the many warnings on the can of paint. Thanks for watching!
@thelaserchannel1 yeah I used to use it for tile and stopped..the field chalk paint is so much better and can be used at higher speed..cleans with water
Thanks! Yes- all the methods will work with the Sculpfun with air assist. Just like in the video I do not recommend using the Cold Galvanizing paint- it's not worth the health risks.
Another way of doing it. Apply some adhesive film to cover the glass completely. Use the laser to cut the film as per design peeling larger sections where necessary. Using a small sandblaster attachment for your compressor sand blast the glass to produce a frosted appearance whereby the remaining film performs the function of a mask. Finally remove the remaining adhesive film.
I would recommend a Co2 laser if your budget allows. A Co2 laser can directly engrave on clear glass with no need for a masking agent. The same for acrylics- solid, clear, or translucent- a Co2 laser can cut or engrave any color. The diode lasers are nice and can offer a lower price point, longer life laser source, and less maintenance needs.
Most interesting is that the cold galvanizing appears to have darkened the engraved glass. I'm guessing that's because some of the zinc from the paint is melted into the glass, and zinc tends to darken as it oxidizes, acetone quickens that oxidation. Speaking of.... harsh chemicals are not needed for cleanup. You can use a razor blade scraper on areas that haven't been engraved to scrape away the paint. Then, I just use soap & hot water for all my paint cleanups on the engraved glass.... the trick is, I use stainless steel wool to scrub it down. Stainless Steel is softer than glass so it won't scratch the glass, but it easily removes the paint. It's expensive, but a single ball of stainless steel wool has lasted me 3x longer than a whole package of regular steel wool.
How's it going I'm having a big issue with this I believe it's cause of my lack of ability to focus my laser properly. So that brings me to my next topic. I have a comgrow z1 5w blue diode laser engraver how do you dial in the focus???? I cannot figure it out. I also got the comgrow air assist setup with it.
Sorry for the big topic I'm just at a loss I cannot find anything that properly shows how to focus. I'll gladly make a PayPal donation to help out in my son's highschool name. 😉 Also I'm running lasergrbl.
Hi if I remember correctly, the focus distance for the 5 watt laser is 2mm from the project material to the red laser guard- hope this helps! Comgrow also has all their manuals available online under the Support tab: www.sovol3d.com/pages/download Hope this helps !
@@thelaserchannel1 yes you are a genius. I always forget about the manuals. My wife is a good caring soul who always puts that stuff in the file cabinet. And in there I found the manual along with the focus tool that is exactly 2mm thick. Pure genius.
Question on speed and power settings: Did you try with higher power and speed? Just wondering why you dialed the laser all the way down to 65%? Did you ever get the glass to fracture completely with the laser?
Good questions- I purposely kept the settings all the same. This way if someone is already using one method and have it dialed in they can see the engraving difference for more or less engraving effect. I have not been able to crack glass with a laser diode- only with a Co2 laser.
@@thelaserchannel1 was there any disadvantage to going 100% and correspondingly faster (e.g. 100% at 9000mm/min). I have not gone down the CO2 rabbit hole yet! lol
@@TheBlairHouseProject Nope- just as long as the laser can transfer enough energy into the masking agent to the glass. Some people will also say running a laser diode at 100% will shorten the life; I somewhat agree but by the time that happens the machine is usually outdated and ready for replacement. BTW- Co2 lasers do not need any masking agent to engrave glass and run at much lower power levels- I've actually cracked glass with a Co2 at too high of power!
@@thelaserchannel1 Have you ever managed to cut glass in a controlled way with a diode laser ? (i.e. not a random fracture). If so could you share how or post a vid? Not much out there about that, but the diode lasers have gotten a LOT more powerful in the last couple of years.
@@TheBlairHouseProject A laser diode operates at frequency or color of light that does not directly interact with clear glass or acrylic. This is why we use a masking agent like tempera paint. The laser energy is absorbed by the the masking agent and then transferred to the glass. To cut glass a Picosecond laser is needed- very expensive. Edit- its' not power of the laser diode that prevents it from cutting glass, it's the color of the laser beam.
Are all these labels as resilient as each other? Can you film scrubbing them with a scourer or steel wool to show how well they hold up? Perhaps put both sheets thru the dishwasher a couple of times to see if there is any fading?
The engraved glass truly is marked into the glass! Not amount of scrubbing or dishwashing will remove it! There are some methods that produce a black engraving and all reports come back that the color does wash off in the dishwasher- the color lasts longer when hand washing. By touch there is texture in the engraving that goes into and penetrates the glass! Thanks for watching!
That's good to know. The cold galv one is darker (which I do like)... does that fade over time or is that integral into the glass? My replacement engraver doesn't get here for a few more days and I cannot test until then. Whomp!
@thelaserchannel1 Also... Thanks for the quick response! You are very thorough on your videos and I am sure you will do well! You have one more sub from me. Remember we can pause and rewind so you can keep your videos more trim with less repetition. It does start to come across as patronizing after a while, like you are talking to 6 year old kids. Other than that, you are doing great my friend! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video. I am up in Canada and dont have spray chalk available! :/ I was wondering if I can use the closest thing on Amazon which is Chalk markers (for blackboards and glass etc, seems to be liquid chalk that does not fully dry? Like in your video removed with your hand). Please answer!! Thanks!
Hi- I haven't use other types of spray chalks. The spray chalk I used does fully dry but easily cleans up with water and a towel. The other spray chalks might work, but I think they are meant to be more permanent and may not clean up as easily- are you able to read the back of the can for the clean up instructions? Thanks for watching!
@@thelaserchannel1 thanks for the reply, they are simply drawing markers for children for chalboards glass etc and are water-based and easily wash off with water
Because CO2 laser wavelength at 10,640 nm requires no special preperation to engrave glass because at that wavlength it is opaque and absorbs all the light energy, . A diode laser operating at 455nm wavlength is exactly the opposite (as you mention) and is transparent and does not absorb any light energy. Thus it requires a surface film to absorb the light energy,and convert it to heat energy that in turn damages the glsss. This is an excellent exploration of some of those heat transfer materials and compares how efficiently they damage the glass surface. Tempera paint works because the black pigment is carbon, a great energy transfer medium. The black poster card will have carbon in its pigmenetd surface also. The cold galv paint is typically 95% zinc micro particles and zinc is also a pretty good light energy absorber at 455nm. The surprise was the chalk paint, particularly how white, crisp and uniform that result was. When I looked up the absorption spectrun for CaCO3 (calcium carbonate) I found it was similar to carbon black pigment (tempera paint), titanium dioxide and magnesium oxide. So these are materials I will have to examine further. Your painstaking thoroughness with each method is to be priased and the time you dedicated to this task has stimualed many questions beyond smple visual comparison Your results have provoked me to test additional energy transfer materials and investigate why some materials/methods produce different shades of grey/white on the same sheet of glass. . Maybe it was just the light but the text on the dabbed tempera text seemed the whitest.
Thanks for your comment and I'm happy you like my the methods! Let me know if you come up with another way to engrave with common material coatings! Cheers! 😀
I watched your video 2x then ran to Dollar Tree. I got 3 bottles of black but now Im wondering if using white would leave the engraving black? Could you do a review of white paints?
Hi- I'm not sure using white tempera paint would leave a black engraving. I can try it in a future video! I have heard of the people creating a black engraving on glass- I don't know the settings or the type of paint they used. Thanks for watching!
I appreciate the thoroughness of the methodology. One thing I don't get is, why expose two methods told to be dangerous, and say it should not be used? What is missing too is a comparison of results, beyond just showing them. What gives the finest look, what is the most contrasted, etc. Pro and con of each method. Also, I regret your project is only black & white, no gray image engraving. It would have been interesting to see the results for that too. Lastly, I have seen elsewhere methods with some wet paper towel over the glass, using masking tape, or using a fine layer of dishwashing gel. Perhaps you might want to try these too? (I haven't tried that yet.) Anyway, your video is well made, thank you.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate your feedback. I covered the two hazardous methods to show they yield the same results so the health risks are not needed. The results- I like people to see for themselves and balance the time to apply the masking agent vs. the results- this also helps keep the video kinda short. I have tired masking tape and it does not work. The wet paper towel and dish soap are more for Co2 laser that have a much easier time engraving glass- here's a link showing glass engraving with a Co2 if you are interested: ua-cam.com/video/NCrH0_p3mxE/v-deo.html
@@thelaserchannel1 Thanks for the answer. So the gold stuff is something popular, that you advise to avoid. Good move. And some video can be pretty vague on the tool they use, I appreciate the heads up. Have a good day.
First of all, BOTH thumbs up for your very informative and interesting videos! XD I only have a HUGE problem here in Germany and unfortunately I write with the translator ;( So: I have the Atomstack x7 Pro 50W Laser and NO MATTER what I do and set I do NOT get it engraved on glass ;( ;( ;( What the hell am I doing wrong? Could you possibly help me in any way or find out if I can really laser glass and stainless steel and aluminum with my laser? THANK YOU SO MUCH in advance from Germany XD Frank PS.PLEASE do keep it up with your videos XD
Hi Frank for Germany- thanks for watching! Yes- your Atomstack x7 Pro 50w laser can engraving glass. The x7 Pro uses a 10 watt optical power laser module and will engrave glass and stainless steel. For glass an opaque paint like a black water based paint is used on the top surface- laser the top surface with the laser focus set to the top surface. On stainless steel use a high power and lower speed
@@thelaserchannel1 WOW, many, many, many thanks for your quick reply, which makes me really HUGE! I'll set everything exactly the same way, but unfortunately I don't know what you mean with the laser focus, let alone how to set this focus perfectly and at all ;( Sorry ...And where exactly should I apply this water-based paint? In a glass or outside? And with a pane should I then apply it to the back and on the NOT sprayed flat laser?
@@thelaserchannel1 Ok, thank you very much and I'll read where it says exactly XD I have no idea how to set this focus correctly :-( Have a nice day and PLEASE keep it up Laser engraver in this price? Kind regards, Frank
@ Hi- I have not tested all the colors, but the Testors brand I used White and Blue with the same effect. I have not used a Black spray chalk. I'm using spray chalk for sidewalks and not the black chalkboard spray.
Thanks for the video. Safety Alert: Do not laser glass without an enclosure. Safety goggles are not enough. Eye safety and lung safety are non-negotiable. One in two people in the US will develop cancer. That is no joke. Also, you must wear gloves when cleaning some of the soot and residues from the chemicals used in this video.
Masking prevents material from being deposited on the substrate. That being said, it is not what the paint is called. It is called "marking" paint. Allowing the substrate to be marked on.
Great videos! Did you add cold galvanized to the red rustoleum? Why does it say "cold galvanized red rustoleum"? PS: Cold galvanized paint is really not that bad for you, and not much worse than any other solvent based spray paint. It is the same paint the utility company uses for gas meters, etc. You should not be breathing in *anything* that comes off a laser cutter. Or anything that comes out of a spray can. It's all bad for you. All my cutting is done in an outdoor covered area with a fan on. We are all adults here. I am pretty sure one disclaimer is plenty, and no one is going to hold you responsible if they get cancer in 20 years. ;-)
Thank you- The Cold Galvanized paint is by Rustoleum and I agree 100% that breathing in any laser fumes is bad! The Cold Glav fumes are even worse and I do not recommend anyone to use it because of the health risk and there's other easier methods to mask the glass! Thanks for watching!
@@thelaserchannel1 What I asked is did you mix the galv and red? The red also says it has galvanized (i.e. zinc). Was the red coating just only the red paint and nothing else?
Nice :) Yes, I'm watching the length of the video and try to keep them a bit shorter. There's that balance of enough detail for new people and keeping the video moving along for experienced people. Thanks for watching!
Spent way too much time on stiff like the cleaning when you should have fine slower on the finished images getting closer without moving so much. Hard to see how crisp the lines really were. Thanks
A long but excellent presentation with no details left out. I am glad that I watched the whole video clip. Well done and thank you.
Hvala što ste pokazali sve različite metode.💕💕
Nema na čemu - hvala na gledanju!
Very cool. Just getting started in laser work. Thank you for sharing. Everyone stay safe, warm, happy and healthy. From Henrico County Virginia
Thank you! You too!
An outstanding presentation - thank you
Thanks! 😀
Great Video, I think from what I saw I will be trying the tempru methods, they came out the best to my view, except the tissue paper, sure is nice to have an in depth video to learn what to do, thanks for the info.
New to engraving and your video answered questions for me. Video is easy to follow, and explanations are understandable. Thank you for taking your time to create the content.
Thanks!
Thank you soooo much for putting this together. I’m a newbie. I tried the Rustoleum spray paint method with black and white matte colors. The black had white etching and the white black etching! And if you run it under hot water, it breaks down and peels off with having to really use acetone. Again, wonderful job!
Thanks! Love the tip on the hot water clean up!
As the white paint contains Titanium Dioxide, it will burn black/dark when heated. The heated TiS02 will BOND to the glass or tile and have a black finish....
This is very valuable information. Thanks.
You're welcome- thanks for watching!
I like this video, very detailed and extremely helpful
Thank you- the detailed video tend to be a little longer and I think it really helps people learn how to use their laser machines! Thanks for watching!
Thank you so much! This is so helpful and easy to understand! The best how to video I have seen for glass. ❤
Thank you!
excellent presentation, congratulations and thank you for all your time and effort, I am a beginner with laser engraving, I am precisely interested in glass engraving and this video taught me a LOT. So really thank you, suer well explained and detailed
Thank you- I'm happy the video was able to help!
Great video and presentation/comparisons. Well thought out and demonstrated. I'm a newbie with an OLM3 I received in November and glad your channel popped up. You earned yourself a like and a new subscriber. Looking forward to checking out some of your other videos tomorrow! Larry in KY
Awesome! Thanks- I have the OLM3 as well; that machine is crazy fast and crazy smooth!
Thanks for showing all the different methods. Have only tried the brush-on tempera paint until now and got good result with it, but will definitely also try one of your other suggestions.
Thank you! I like spraying on the tempera, it takes a little longer but I find the results turn out great!
Thanks for your time making this. Why is it the best ones are always the hardest and messiest. I like the chalk one, this is the first time I've seen that. But the backer board is nice and so clean and easy. Could you do more DPI on it?
You're welcome- thanks for watching! I've found really high DPI did not add more resolution or sharpness to my engravings because the size of one engraving dot on glass is rather large. It's always a great idea to experiment around and find the best settings that work for you! Have a great day!
Very informative!!
Thanks- glad you like it! 😀
excellent explanations, thank you.
You're welcome! Thanks
Excellent and very informative! Thank you!!
Glad you liked it!
What wattage are you using, percentage, speed...?
The settings are covered at 7:30- all methods are ran the same- this shows the best comparison of what methods may need more/less power.
Thanks for the video ❤️
Thank you!
Great video,I have a atomstack S10 if focus on the material and not the glass the laser head touches the glass
Thanks! Yes- the transfer method of using black poster board with the clear glass on top can run into issues if the glass is really thick. In this case using a masking agent like the tempura paint on the surface closest to the laser is a better option.
Thank you 👍
Thank you for this thoughtful presentation. I followed the link for the Atomstack A20. How do you laser a glass cup if the working height is 22mm as listed for this machine?
You're welcome! When engraving glassware I use a rotary unit from AtomStack that comes with leg extensions to lift the machine up to clear the glassware and the rotary unit! Here's a video with the leg extensions shown: ua-cam.com/video/GYs_GYCX6ow/v-deo.html
I recommend the rotary that includes the flat rollers and the rotary chuck! Thanks for watching!
Thanks for this video. I bought the spray chalk paint you recommended. I was expecting it to spray “wider” like a spray paint, but it seems to spray very “straight/thick/heavy” and makes it incredibly difficult to get an even coating, am I missing something something obvious? Thanks!
The spray chalk does spray heavier- I hold the can further away than normal and use a faster motion. 1-2 light coats works great! Thanks for watching!
I found your video to be really interesting. I am having trouble engraving glass with my diode laser engraver. It is the xTool F1. I tried a few methods with varying degrees of success. I tried tempura paint which I applied with a foam brush but that gave an uneven texture to the engraving. I then bought a Preval sprayer, which is an aerosol spray can with a tube that comes out of the bottom into a jar that you fill with liquid and you can spray onto surfaces. The watered down tempura paint went on a lot more evenly but still there was a ragged texture to the finished engraving. Finally I bought a bottle of matt black chalk acrylic paint and watered it down and sprayed that onto the glass. I was on evenly and had a much less shiny finish, but still there was a ragged unevenness to the finished engraving, particularly at the edges of the engraving. From your video you said your diode engraver was a 20 watt machine, the xTool F1 is a 10 watt machine. Do you think it is not powerful enough for a clean result in glass engraving? Thank you for your time.
Hi and thank you for the compliment- glad you enjoy the videos. When I sprayed the watered down tempura paint- the fist coat was just a very super light dusting- another 2-3 coats and I had an even coat. As you found out an even coat of the masking agent is key to a uniform engraving. The masking agent and the glass will effect the engraving texture. A 10 watt laser is plenty to engrave glass! If you find you're still struggling I would recommend posting the Xtool Facebook user group- you'll be able to post photos/video of your settings and results- it's a very knowledgeable and responsive group! Best wishes!
@@thelaserchannel1 Thank you so much!
@@Alexanderiii You're welcome!
I have used a 40 watt S1 from xtools and the chalk spray color RED. and i used the same settings accept 160 lines. Your chalk engraving looked a bit whiter than my is a little gray
Do you think the color of the chalk would matter?... By the way i love your video en different test methodes
Hi- I've found the color of the spray chalk does have a slight affect on the engraving color. The lines per inch will also have an affect on the engraving texture which may also affect the color. Thanks for watching!
What would you us for ceramin plates?
I haven't engraved ceramics too much. Each type of ceramic and coating are different. I would recommend running materials test chart to find the best settings for your setup and material!
I learned a few thing, thanks.
You're welcome!
Great video, thank you!
You are welcome! Thanks for watching!
Hello, I really enjoy following your videos. I'm writing to ask for your advice on something. I'm using a KT10 3W laser machine, and I've tried Black, Yellow, Blue, and Green paper on glass, but they all burn, and I end up with a white/grey result. When I tried Red and Grey paper, I achieved perfect colors. I can't understand the difference. Do you have a setup recommendation for Black, Yellow, Blue, and Green papers on glass
Thanks! For the papers- are you just looking to transfer the energy of the laser to the glass to engrave a frosted white look? I've only used 1-2 colors for this method - I stopped when I found a method that works :) I do know that different colors of paper will react differently with the laser diode machines- and will need different settings.
@@thelaserchannel1 First of all, thank you for your quick response. I want to reveal the color of the paper on glass, but the color is not coming out. It turns grey/white, probably because the paper is burning. I increase the speed and lower the power, but then the design doesn’t stick to the glass. I can’t seem to figure it out. Here’s an example video. I can’t seem to achieve a proper black tone, or the quality is poor. What would you recommend for a 3W machine? I want to design glasses as a hobby.
Example video:
ua-cam.com/users/shorts6Avt6zIrZ-A
@@magnogkilla Ok- I understand. I haven't used the color engraving papers. I've only used paper/ poster board to use the transfer method for engraving the glass. I wonder if you post on Facebook to one of the laser groups that someone would have some pointers for you? Best wishes!
@@thelaserchannel1 I figured out what was wrong. The colored paper I was using was of poor quality. All the products from the seller disappeared at once. I got a refund. I changed the paper, and the problem was solved. Thank you for taking the time anyway.
First thank you for making this video!
Help! I tried tne black cardstock transfer method.
I have to engrave twenty square vases with the same image. I have an Xtool M1. The first one turned out perfectly well. The second and third head too much scorching even though I used the same settings. The third, barely engraved at all. What about doing wrong?
Thanks for watching! I wonder if the laser lens is clean- sounds like it is but I like to double check. Maybe the card stock is not sitting 100% tight against the glass. I have had very consistent results spraying tempera paint on the outside of the glass/vase. Kids sidewalk spray chalk from Testors also works great and applies faster than tempura paint. Best wishes!
Great video, TWO questions:
1- have you done brushed Tempera?
2- How to fill engraved area with paint to move away from white (such as gold, etc)?
1- Yes- any brush marks will create a different engraving texture- this might be a neat effect. 2- to color fill use a mask like tempera paint of tack paper- after engraving apply the paint then remove the mask! Thanks for watching!
I need to try method 4 and 5. I do a lot of engraving on glasses for breweries ( just finished a batch of 300) and do not use any masking or even water. Will be interesting to see the results and how much time it adds to production. Right now I engrave, lighting sand to take off glass shards, and then box them for the customer. Then they throw them all in a commercial glass washer to clean them. I have two 40W CO2 lasers and one 50W CO2 laser. Thanks.
Excellent- thank you for sharing!
CO2 uses a longer wavelength of light and it cannot "see through" regular silica glass, so doesn't need the coating like the diode lasers do.
If you play with an IR camera you will notice it cannot see thru a window.
Did u engrave on paint sidevor paint down?
Hi- painted surfaces I have the paint facing up towards the laser. The only transfer method with the Cold Galvanizing paint has the material under the glass and the focus set to the bottom side of the glass- I do not recommend using Cold Galvanizing paint because of the many warnings on the can of paint. Thanks for watching!
@thelaserchannel1 yeah I used to use it for tile and stopped..the field chalk paint is so much better and can be used at higher speed..cleans with water
Very interesting, will these work with the sculpfun air assist ?
Thanks! Yes- all the methods will work with the Sculpfun with air assist. Just like in the video I do not recommend using the Cold Galvanizing paint- it's not worth the health risks.
Another way of doing it.
Apply some adhesive film to cover the glass completely. Use the laser to cut the film as per design peeling larger sections where necessary. Using a small sandblaster attachment for your compressor sand blast the glass to produce a frosted appearance whereby the remaining film performs the function of a mask. Finally remove the remaining adhesive film.
Great idea- thanks for sharing!
Hi, Thanks for the great vid. What is your recommendation for Glass trophy engraving- co2 or laser? Thanks, Much appreciate your opinion.
I would recommend a Co2 laser if your budget allows. A Co2 laser can directly engrave on clear glass with no need for a masking agent. The same for acrylics- solid, clear, or translucent- a Co2 laser can cut or engrave any color. The diode lasers are nice and can offer a lower price point, longer life laser source, and less maintenance needs.
@@thelaserchannel1 Thank you. Much appreciated.
Most interesting is that the cold galvanizing appears to have darkened the engraved glass. I'm guessing that's because some of the zinc from the paint is melted into the glass, and zinc tends to darken as it oxidizes, acetone quickens that oxidation. Speaking of.... harsh chemicals are not needed for cleanup. You can use a razor blade scraper on areas that haven't been engraved to scrape away the paint. Then, I just use soap & hot water for all my paint cleanups on the engraved glass.... the trick is, I use stainless steel wool to scrub it down. Stainless Steel is softer than glass so it won't scratch the glass, but it easily removes the paint. It's expensive, but a single ball of stainless steel wool has lasted me 3x longer than a whole package of regular steel wool.
thank you!
You're welcome!
How's it going I'm having a big issue with this I believe it's cause of my lack of ability to focus my laser properly. So that brings me to my next topic. I have a comgrow z1 5w blue diode laser engraver how do you dial in the focus???? I cannot figure it out. I also got the comgrow air assist setup with it.
Sorry for the big topic I'm just at a loss I cannot find anything that properly shows how to focus. I'll gladly make a PayPal donation to help out in my son's highschool name. 😉 Also I'm running lasergrbl.
Hi if I remember correctly, the focus distance for the 5 watt laser is 2mm from the project material to the red laser guard- hope this helps! Comgrow also has all their manuals available online under the Support tab: www.sovol3d.com/pages/download
Hope this helps !
@@alexray2925 No worries- you are welcome to donate by using the "Thanks" button above the video description on any on the my videos 😃
@@thelaserchannel1 yes you are a genius. I always forget about the manuals. My wife is a good caring soul who always puts that stuff in the file cabinet. And in there I found the manual along with the focus tool that is exactly 2mm thick. Pure genius.
@@alexray2925 Glad it worked out for you!! Happy lasering!
Question on speed and power settings:
Did you try with higher power and speed? Just wondering why you dialed the laser all the way down to 65%?
Did you ever get the glass to fracture completely with the laser?
Good questions- I purposely kept the settings all the same. This way if someone is already using one method and have it dialed in they can see the engraving difference for more or less engraving effect. I have not been able to crack glass with a laser diode- only with a Co2 laser.
@@thelaserchannel1 was there any disadvantage to going 100% and correspondingly faster (e.g. 100% at 9000mm/min).
I have not gone down the CO2 rabbit hole yet! lol
@@TheBlairHouseProject Nope- just as long as the laser can transfer enough energy into the masking agent to the glass. Some people will also say running a laser diode at 100% will shorten the life; I somewhat agree but by the time that happens the machine is usually outdated and ready for replacement.
BTW- Co2 lasers do not need any masking agent to engrave glass and run at much lower power levels- I've actually cracked glass with a Co2 at too high of power!
@@thelaserchannel1 Have you ever managed to cut glass in a controlled way with a diode laser ? (i.e. not a random fracture).
If so could you share how or post a vid? Not much out there about that, but the diode lasers have gotten a LOT more powerful in the last couple of years.
@@TheBlairHouseProject A laser diode operates at frequency or color of light that does not directly interact with clear glass or acrylic. This is why we use a masking agent like tempera paint. The laser energy is absorbed by the the masking agent and then transferred to the glass. To cut glass a Picosecond laser is needed- very expensive. Edit- its' not power of the laser diode that prevents it from cutting glass, it's the color of the laser beam.
yes definitely listen to this safety message FIRST, the materials as well as the safety glasses... have fun, but dont Die....
Are all these labels as resilient as each other? Can you film scrubbing them with a scourer or steel wool to show how well they hold up?
Perhaps put both sheets thru the dishwasher a couple of times to see if there is any fading?
The engraved glass truly is marked into the glass! Not amount of scrubbing or dishwashing will remove it! There are some methods that produce a black engraving and all reports come back that the color does wash off in the dishwasher- the color lasts longer when hand washing. By touch there is texture in the engraving that goes into and penetrates the glass! Thanks for watching!
That's good to know. The cold galv one is darker (which I do like)... does that fade over time or is that integral into the glass?
My replacement engraver doesn't get here for a few more days and I cannot test until then. Whomp!
@thelaserchannel1 Also... Thanks for the quick response! You are very thorough on your videos and I am sure you will do well! You have one more sub from me.
Remember we can pause and rewind so you can keep your videos more trim with less repetition. It does start to come across as patronizing after a while, like you are talking to 6 year old kids.
Other than that, you are doing great my friend! Keep up the good work!
Thanks for the video. I am up in Canada and dont have spray chalk available! :/ I was wondering if I can use the closest thing on Amazon which is Chalk markers (for blackboards and glass etc, seems to be liquid chalk that does not fully dry? Like in your video removed with your hand). Please answer!! Thanks!
Hi- I haven't use other types of spray chalks. The spray chalk I used does fully dry but easily cleans up with water and a towel. The other spray chalks might work, but I think they are meant to be more permanent and may not clean up as easily- are you able to read the back of the can for the clean up instructions? Thanks for watching!
@@thelaserchannel1 thanks for the reply, they are simply drawing markers for children for chalboards glass etc and are water-based and easily wash off with water
Because CO2 laser wavelength at 10,640 nm requires no special preperation to engrave glass because at that wavlength it is opaque and absorbs all the light energy, . A diode laser operating at 455nm wavlength is exactly the opposite (as you mention) and is transparent and does not absorb any light energy. Thus it requires a surface film to absorb the light energy,and convert it to heat energy that in turn damages the glsss. This is an excellent exploration of some of those heat transfer materials and compares how efficiently they damage the glass surface. Tempera paint works because the black pigment is carbon, a great energy transfer medium. The black poster card will have carbon in its pigmenetd surface also. The cold galv paint is typically 95% zinc micro particles and zinc is also a pretty good light energy absorber at 455nm. The surprise was the chalk paint, particularly how white, crisp and uniform that result was. When I looked up the absorption spectrun for CaCO3 (calcium carbonate) I found it was similar to carbon black pigment (tempera paint), titanium dioxide and magnesium oxide. So these are materials I will have to examine further.
Your painstaking thoroughness with each method is to be priased and the time you dedicated to this task has stimualed many questions beyond smple visual comparison Your results have provoked me to test additional energy transfer materials and investigate why some materials/methods produce different shades of grey/white on the same sheet of glass. . Maybe it was just the light but the text on the dabbed tempera text seemed the whitest.
Thanks for your comment and I'm happy you like my the methods! Let me know if you come up with another way to engrave with common material coatings! Cheers! 😀
Keep up the videos, great stuff
Thanks!
I watched your video 2x then ran to Dollar Tree. I got 3 bottles of black but now Im wondering if using white would leave the engraving black? Could you do a review of white paints?
Hi- I'm not sure using white tempera paint would leave a black engraving. I can try it in a future video! I have heard of the people creating a black engraving on glass- I don't know the settings or the type of paint they used. Thanks for watching!
What is the power that you use?
Hello- I used the same settings of 65% power at 80 mm/s to keep the tests simple and show what methods will need or or less power.
@The Laser Channel thank you very much very helpful video
@@rigopulido4897 You're welcome!
@thelaserchannel1 did you use air assist?
@racerj11 yes
I use a foam roller for the black tempra paint
Tempera paint offers many application methods- thanks for sharing!
I appreciate the thoroughness of the methodology.
One thing I don't get is, why expose two methods told to be dangerous, and say it should not be used?
What is missing too is a comparison of results, beyond just showing them. What gives the finest look, what is the most contrasted, etc. Pro and con of each method.
Also, I regret your project is only black & white, no gray image engraving. It would have been interesting to see the results for that too.
Lastly, I have seen elsewhere methods with some wet paper towel over the glass, using masking tape, or using a fine layer of dishwashing gel. Perhaps you might want to try these too? (I haven't tried that yet.)
Anyway, your video is well made, thank you.
Thanks for watching and I appreciate your feedback. I covered the two hazardous methods to show they yield the same results so the health risks are not needed. The results- I like people to see for themselves and balance the time to apply the masking agent vs. the results- this also helps keep the video kinda short. I have tired masking tape and it does not work. The wet paper towel and dish soap are more for Co2 laser that have a much easier time engraving glass- here's a link showing glass engraving with a Co2 if you are interested: ua-cam.com/video/NCrH0_p3mxE/v-deo.html
@@thelaserchannel1 Thanks for the answer. So the gold stuff is something popular, that you advise to avoid. Good move. And some video can be pretty vague on the tool they use, I appreciate the heads up. Have a good day.
@@PhilippeLhoste Thanks!
I liked #4 and #5 the best
Nice-4and 5, Spray Chalk and Sprayed Tempera Paint are great choices!
Agreed the spray chalk and tempera looked great!
I bought a bottle of tempera based on another video, now i want to try spraying it on!
Harbor Freight sells airbrushes starting at about $10.
@@thelaserchannel1 is it any good?
@@topcheese2889 It's what is used in our shop for virtually all glass engraving!
Mr Rodgers of laser engraving.
Lols- I love it!!
Awesome
Thanks!
First of all, BOTH thumbs up for your very informative and interesting videos! XD I only have a HUGE problem here in Germany and unfortunately I write with the translator ;( So: I have the Atomstack x7 Pro 50W Laser and NO MATTER what I do and set I do NOT get it engraved on glass ;( ;( ;( What the hell am I doing wrong? Could you possibly help me in any way or find out if I can really laser glass and stainless steel and aluminum with my laser? THANK YOU SO MUCH in advance from Germany XD Frank PS.PLEASE do keep it up with your videos XD
Hi Frank for Germany- thanks for watching! Yes- your Atomstack x7 Pro 50w laser can engraving glass. The x7 Pro uses a 10 watt optical power laser module and will engrave glass and stainless steel. For glass an opaque paint like a black water based paint is used on the top surface- laser the top surface with the laser focus set to the top surface. On stainless steel use a high power and lower speed
@@thelaserchannel1 WOW, many, many, many thanks for your quick reply, which makes me really HUGE! I'll set everything exactly the same way, but unfortunately I don't know what you mean with the laser focus, let alone how to set this focus perfectly and at all ;( Sorry ...And where exactly should I apply this water-based paint? In a glass or outside? And with a pane should I then apply it to the back and on the NOT sprayed flat laser?
@@Muscle_81 The machine manual will show how to set the focus- I think this is the issue you have. The black paint is sprayed or brushed on the glass.
@@thelaserchannel1 Ok, thank you very much and I'll read where it says exactly XD I have no idea how to set this focus correctly :-( Have a nice day and PLEASE keep it up Laser engraver in this price? Kind regards, Frank
Did the chalk leave a bluish tint or was it just me??
It might look a little blue in the video but it comes out pure white when cleaned 100%.
@@thelaserchannel1 and what color of chalk spray is better? black? I am asking because you used blue one
Thanks
@ Hi- I have not tested all the colors, but the Testors brand I used White and Blue with the same effect. I have not used a Black spray chalk. I'm using spray chalk for sidewalks and not the black chalkboard spray.
CHALK WINS THANKS
Thanks!
thanks a lot. spray chalk it is, i guess. most simple, lowest amount of toxic stuff.
Spray Chalk- it's what I reach for!
Thanks for this video?
Thank you for watching!
Thanks for the video. Safety Alert: Do not laser glass without an enclosure. Safety goggles are not enough. Eye safety and lung safety are non-negotiable. One in two people in the US will develop cancer. That is no joke. Also, you must wear gloves when cleaning some of the soot and residues from the chemicals used in this video.
Thanks for watching!
Masking prevents material from being deposited on the substrate. That being said, it is not what the paint is called. It is called "marking" paint. Allowing the substrate to be marked on.
Great videos!
Did you add cold galvanized to the red rustoleum? Why does it say "cold galvanized red rustoleum"?
PS: Cold galvanized paint is really not that bad for you, and not much worse than any other solvent based spray paint. It is the same paint the utility company uses for gas meters, etc. You should not be breathing in *anything* that comes off a laser cutter. Or anything that comes out of a spray can. It's all bad for you. All my cutting is done in an outdoor covered area with a fan on.
We are all adults here. I am pretty sure one disclaimer is plenty, and no one is going to hold you responsible if they get cancer in 20 years. ;-)
Thank you- The Cold Galvanized paint is by Rustoleum and I agree 100% that breathing in any laser fumes is bad! The Cold Glav fumes are even worse and I do not recommend anyone to use it because of the health risk and there's other easier methods to mask the glass! Thanks for watching!
@@thelaserchannel1 What I asked is did you mix the galv and red? The red also says it has galvanized (i.e. zinc). Was the red coating just only the red paint and nothing else?
@@thelaserchannel1 Have you found anything else that gives that darker etch finish (that is permanent and not worn by washing)
@@TheBlairHouseProject Ok- I understand, the red paint is Ultra Cover primer+paint. I did not mix the red paint and the cold galv paint.
@@TheBlairHouseProject I have not looked for dark engraving glass- I've been good with the frosted white look of the engraving.
I watch this in 1.25 x......JS
Nice :) Yes, I'm watching the length of the video and try to keep them a bit shorter. There's that balance of enough detail for new people and keeping the video moving along for experienced people. Thanks for watching!
Spent way too much time on stiff like the cleaning when you should have fine slower on the finished images getting closer without moving so much. Hard to see how crisp the lines really were. Thanks
You should get money back from whoever finished that wall behind you
Lols- it's a green screen; not a real brick wall :)
@@thelaserchannel1 obviously. But imagine if someone left that massive gaps between panels🤣
Right!