Cut the end of the post down weld a large nut to the end then use a heavy slide hammer on it while the frame is securely held in soft jaws of vice. Nothing beats impact for removing stuck parts.
Oh man I just made a tool like yours and then my friend said to check out your video. The tool works! I do agree adding a handle would help for control and safety. I do like yours in that it is very heavy duty and the extractor section that connects to the seatpost is nice or what I need to build. Hearing the pop was victory!
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem with the seat post, but no welder. I broke the seat post off just above the frame while trying various methods. I was able to grind down the diameter of some 1/2 inch washers, then slid them up the seat tube and engaged a nut into a length of allthread to catch under the seat post. I added the weight from a slide hammer over the allthread, then added washers and a nut for the stop. Worked great with less effort than I expected. I also had to drill out a couple of rivnuts for the bottle cage to get the washers past, but luckily you also have a video on installing those. Maybe Park could make some plugs with an ID thread and a cutout to clear the rivnuts. A few different sizes for different seat tube diameters. Keep up the good work.
That was so satisfying hearing it pop! Great job RJ, love your homemade tools. Still use the one to remove stuck BB cups that you showed us how to make.
So me and my dad got my seat post out and found out that someone had cut the seat post down to fit them on a xl frame. Which made it extremely hard to get out. With some cursing and swearing plus pb blaster and a blow torch we got it out. It literally had a 6 inch post and we were baffled at the bike I had gotten for free. I'm glad that we had a steel pipe that was the exact diameter of my seat post because when we went to use a port a power the seat mount that was apparently glued in with some sort of glue popped out and we popped the part into the new steel pipe. Thank you for your videos and support on how to and diy repairs!
Nice job. Never underestimate a man with a spiral inclined plane...or a dremel tool. Keep the videos coming. And I wouldn't worry about the washer, just replace with each use.
Love it. When I was a kid I rode my Raleigh Ultra Burner through the local river. After the seatpost welded itself. My dad tried heating, wrenching, wd40, hammering etc. It didn't budge. Had to scrap the bike. Your contraption would have been a life saver. Cheers you've earned yourself a new subscriber.
Haha, great! this tool is awesome! cool thinking. I have 3 steel bikes with aluminium seatpost, after seeing this video, i immediately checked if none of those where bonding, luckily not, used enough grease for now! cool video, thumbs up!
This geezer did a great job in making that extraction puller tool. If worried about the possibility of threads stripping, always use a finer threat to alleviate the risk. Great video, & safe methodology adopted here.
That's a brilliant idea. I'm happy you mentioned the plan for a handle because I was really concerned the threaded rod would snap while your fingers were less than an inch away.
Nice job on the seat post extraction tool! May wish to grease the threaded shaft to prevent galling and at the base of the nut/washer to reduce friction. A hardened grade 8 washer, or 2, will also make it easier to tighten. The In addition, once tension is applied to the shaft a few raps with a hammer may facilitate release of the stuck post. Where are you located I have a few stuck posts...?
If you are worried about the galling on that washer replace it with a drilled piece of the steel tube. If you want the closest fit you sneak up to it with an adjustable mechanical reamer. Cool tool, reminds me of things I've made for various automotive work. On the technique I would first use your tool to push it in before trying to remove it. I have better luck with this technique on seized joints. It doesn't need to be much. I'll share with you the best of the best techniques I know of from a mechanical guy who could do anything. ( He welded a hand trike up for his paralyzed son. Coolest thing I ever saw as a kid! ) You heat the joint then pull it away and apply beeswax (toilet bowl gaskets are a cheap source) and it sucks it right in there and acts like a lubricant and its amazing how well it works on rust (our state uses salt so we become experts on this while working on our vehicles). If you ever do rebuild it consider using something like an air chisel to vibrate that joint out of there. They can handle things that it normally takes a full out machine shop type hydraulic press to remove. Last note: I wouldn't try pulling on that extension of the seat post for two reasons: A) It's the obvious weak spot because it does a 90 right there B) If you look closely you see a line down the middle of it which is proof that it is casted metal. While casted metal is very strong it is also very brittle and when brittle metal breaks it is often razor sharp. It's just not worth the risk to your own body by a sharp piece of metal alloy when a seat post is basically a cheap item. Also that seized dark spot is a likely place for tetanus to reside. I've been told by ER folk (when getting evaluated for getting a tetanus shot because I couldn't get them for other medical reasons) if the metal is fresh its rarely a risk but metal that has been sitting around for a long time in the rust is more likely to have it.
I think this would work with some type of clamp surrounding the post. And in the front steel fork as well for pulling a stuck quill also. Just in case you want to save the part like in some classic old steel bikes. Brilliant design I must say, RJ.
A pedestrian steps off the curb and into the road without looking and promptly gets knocked flat by a passing cyclist. "You were really lucky there," says the cyclist. "What on earth are you talking about! That really hurt!" says the pedestrian, still on the pavement, rubbing his head. But the cyclist replied, "Well, usually I drive a bus!"
Very nice extraction! You could have the lower link to seatpost, contain a bar to touch the square tubes so no torque goes to the frame. But I don't think that is really a problem. A smaller hole washer around threaded rod under the coupler nut would also give more area to prevent deformation (and thicker). Maybe some seatpost will give if using the hole for the bolt that holds the seat on but it also will deflect the post in a way we don't want. (I am guessing that the Al. will fail first there if it doesn't work) Very nice video! Nice work.
Great job!! I cheated when I needed to get a post out. I made a solution of lye. It worked really well. I protected the paint by using rubber corks on all the frame tubes (inside and out), taped a home made funnel to the seatpost opening, then covered the entire frame with plastic drop sheeting, kept a loaded garden hose at my side.
Nicely done! The weakest link is the threaded rod and nut. I would use a high tensile, and if you wanna go to town with it - a thrust bearing under the nut.
Congratulations! This is the tool for for the job! I spent days fiddling with spanners, blowtorches and hammers to extract one seized seatpost. I would have been quicker building that tool and removing the seatpost even if it was just for one time. By the way you could put a flat ball bearing under top nut to reduce draging
In order to make the task easier, it would be a good idea to use a can of electronic freezer spray on the aluminium seat stem. That is because aluminium contracts three times more than steel when frozen, hence making it a lot less effort to extract the seat post.
@@RJTheBikeGuy And good amount of oil or grease on the threads and where the nut presses on the washer/or bearing. Want to minimize the friction as much as possible with that much force on those, similar to automotive puller tools usage.
This a really cool tool you made, a high lift jack works the same way just invert the frame in a pro park professional bike stand and reverse the jack rathchet cranking it down while standing on the heavy steel plate.WD40 RUST REMOVAL is what i use to eat thru the corrosion.
Works better then the sawalls from the other video... interesting that you mention higher end bikes who are made with lighter materials this tool might snap those bikes in half
Awesome idea! As for the last part, any time I've tried applying force to the head of the seatpost, it just pops the head off. I'd stick to drilling the post itself.
Since you are able to pull up using the puller, I wonder if a few hit on the post with a small sledge hammer down into the frame just to get the grip to break, then pulling might become easier. Just a thought.
I have to admit that I wouldn't have the balls to try this twice, as it reminds me of trying to compress coil springs from a auto suspension. This was awesome nonetheless!
i just installed a new aluminum post on a steel frame with stuck aluminin post, how often is good to relube the post before it gets stuck again maybe once a year is enough with plenty of safety marginal.
As for the rod nut, you could try to use two washers with grease or better yet. Using a small trailer wheel bearing, or something like that. By getting rid af all that friction would make the job so much easier.
I've seen bottom bracket shells on Italian steel frames that are open on the bottom presumably for weight reduction or service, or perhaps for driving out a stuck seatpost.
With all the force along the long side tubes of the tool, it may be worth welding a couple of flat bar braces between/across the long tubes at a couple of points along their length to preclude any buckling of the tubes under load.
Cool tool ! Looks real sturdy and worked well . I wonder if once you get the post broke free if it might help to try some Penetrating oil and at the same time push the post back in a little so you can get some back and forth movement instead of just pulling alone ?
How would you remove a seat post that had fallen into the the frame"s seat tube? The top of the post is about 5 inches below the top of tube. The post is just a cylinder about a foot long that is wedged firmly into the post. There is nothing to grab to withdraw it. I have lubed the post and inverted the bike. I tried hammering on the bottom of the bracket cylinder, but no avail. I don't want to use lye, and I cannot cut slots in the tube that is out of reach. I don't want to heat the tube to try expanding it. The paint would be scorched. I think I just must leave the post in there and fit another seat post in the top 5 inches of the frame's seat tube. I am open to other suggestions. It there something I could screw into the seat post to extract it? I am thinking of a screw extractor as a model. Is there a pipe extractor that I could screw into the top of the seat post in order to extract it?
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
Cut the end of the post down weld a large nut to the end then use a heavy slide hammer on it while the frame is securely held in soft jaws of vice. Nothing beats impact for removing stuck parts.
@@iiredeyeiiredeye1569 ua-cam.com/video/S3ek2GeZzE0/v-deo.html
How much do I have to pay you to send this to me for a weekend?
Truely inspiring. Your sense of innovation, patience and resilience is unmatched. Thank you RJ.
Awesome! As someone who has battled and lost to more than one frozen seatpost I am totally digging this thread. Thank you for the inspiration!
Oh man I just made a tool like yours and then my friend said to check out your video. The tool works! I do agree adding a handle would help for control and safety. I do like yours in that it is very heavy duty and the extractor section that connects to the seatpost is nice or what I need to build. Hearing the pop was victory!
Yeah! That is a fricking satisfying sound! Great job RJ! I bet Park Tool will be coming out with a design like this one any day now! LOL.
it's not new . I have seen it before.
Elijah GH in blue 😀 PT PP1 post puller
Calvin is a Dork!
Thanks for the video. I had the same problem with the seat post, but no welder. I broke the seat post off just above the frame while trying various methods. I was able to grind down the diameter of some 1/2 inch washers, then slid them up the seat tube and engaged a nut into a length of allthread to catch under the seat post. I added the weight from a slide hammer over the allthread, then added washers and a nut for the stop. Worked great with less effort than I expected. I also had to drill out a couple of rivnuts for the bottle cage to get the washers past, but luckily you also have a video on installing those. Maybe Park could make some plugs with an ID thread and a cutout to clear the rivnuts. A few different sizes for different seat tube diameters. Keep up the good work.
Awesome videos, and even more awesome tools by the master mind him self, RJ The Bike Guy. You need to patent that tool ASAP.
Nice! that first pop sounded like the bottom bracket had cracked...very ingenuous idea RJ...
Just the seatpost moving a little.
Just amazing how resistant the stuck seat post was. Thanks!
That was so satisfying hearing it pop! Great job RJ, love your homemade tools. Still use the one to remove stuck BB cups that you showed us how to make.
I’m sure I’m not the only viewer to shout “GET IN YOU BEAUTY” when you got it it out. Top work, as always, RJ.
Park Tools ain't got nothing on RJ........RJ makes the tool that makes the tool to do the job.
RJ you deserve one medal great job mate 😀.
So me and my dad got my seat post out and found out that someone had cut the seat post down to fit them on a xl frame. Which made it extremely hard to get out. With some cursing and swearing plus pb blaster and a blow torch we got it out. It literally had a 6 inch post and we were baffled at the bike I had gotten for free. I'm glad that we had a steel pipe that was the exact diameter of my seat post because when we went to use a port a power the seat mount that was apparently glued in with some sort of glue popped out and we popped the part into the new steel pipe. Thank you for your videos and support on how to and diy repairs!
This was more tense than a lot of thriller movies out there.
tense peed
I like those DIY tools... Your brain is working! Thanks for sharing
Nice job. Never underestimate a man with a spiral inclined plane...or a dremel tool. Keep the videos coming. And I wouldn't worry about the washer, just replace with each use.
Love it. When I was a kid I rode my Raleigh Ultra Burner through the local river. After the seatpost welded itself. My dad tried heating, wrenching, wd40, hammering etc. It didn't budge. Had to scrap the bike. Your contraption would have been a life saver. Cheers you've earned yourself a new subscriber.
Haha, great! this tool is awesome! cool thinking. I have 3 steel bikes with aluminium seatpost, after seeing this video, i immediately checked if none of those where bonding, luckily not, used enough grease for now! cool video, thumbs up!
Agree with all the improvements and dangers for use. At the very least you have broken new ground....good job.
This geezer did a great job in making that extraction puller tool. If worried about the possibility of threads stripping, always use a finer threat to alleviate the risk. Great video, & safe methodology adopted here.
(he used fine threads)
The tool you make is just work well. Amazing.
Nice homemade tool. Also like they way you hand chop when you speak and surprised that you got shoes on.
Thank you and have a great day.
The floor was freezing.
That's a brilliant idea. I'm happy you mentioned the plan for a handle because I was really concerned the threaded rod would snap while your fingers were less than an inch away.
I wasn't worried about the 5/8" rod snapping. More likely one of the 3/8" bolts. Or possibly the threaded rod stripping out the threads.
What a cool idea! Struggling with my seized seatpost since april.
ua-cam.com/video/P-YpmDx86d0/v-deo.html
Nice job on the seat post extraction tool! May wish to grease the threaded shaft to prevent galling and at the base of the nut/washer to reduce friction. A hardened grade 8 washer, or 2, will also make it easier to tighten. The In addition, once tension is applied to the shaft a few raps with a hammer may facilitate release of the stuck post. Where are you located I have a few stuck posts...?
I take my hat off to you sir with all these seat post challenges great work and funny message. All the best Andy
If you are worried about the galling on that washer replace it with a drilled piece of the steel tube. If you want the closest fit you sneak up to it with an adjustable mechanical reamer. Cool tool, reminds me of things I've made for various automotive work.
On the technique I would first use your tool to push it in before trying to remove it. I have better luck with this technique on seized joints. It doesn't need to be much.
I'll share with you the best of the best techniques I know of from a mechanical guy who could do anything. ( He welded a hand trike up for his paralyzed son. Coolest thing I ever saw as a kid! ) You heat the joint then pull it away and apply beeswax (toilet bowl gaskets are a cheap source) and it sucks it right in there and acts like a lubricant and its amazing how well it works on rust (our state uses salt so we become experts on this while working on our vehicles).
If you ever do rebuild it consider using something like an air chisel to vibrate that joint out of there. They can handle things that it normally takes a full out machine shop type hydraulic press to remove.
Last note: I wouldn't try pulling on that extension of the seat post for two reasons:
A) It's the obvious weak spot because it does a 90 right there
B) If you look closely you see a line down the middle of it which is proof that it is casted metal. While casted metal is very strong it is also very brittle and when brittle metal breaks it is often razor sharp. It's just not worth the risk to your own body by a sharp piece of metal alloy when a seat post is basically a cheap item. Also that seized dark spot is a likely place for tetanus to reside. I've been told by ER folk (when getting evaluated for getting a tetanus shot because I couldn't get them for other medical reasons) if the metal is fresh its rarely a risk but metal that has been sitting around for a long time in the rust is more likely to have it.
Excellent video, a true inspiration. I think you could either aluminum braze or tig weld an aluminum plug into that hole, and reuse that post.
wow! you are the Archimedes of bike repairing
That’s excellent. I wish I could weld one up!
Brilliant! Satisfaction level 1000!
Those knocking sounds are pretty satisfying.
Interesting build.... I would definitely watch using it on aluminum frames
Very interesting build. You never gave up
Great job ! Love it ! Can you give some measurements of the tool. The hardest thing is to find the material. Thanks
Great simple and robust design. Look forward to seeing future testing.
I think this would work with some type of clamp surrounding the post. And in the front steel fork as well for pulling a stuck quill also. Just in case you want to save the part like in some classic old steel bikes. Brilliant design I must say, RJ.
A pedestrian steps off the curb and into the road without looking and promptly gets knocked flat by a passing cyclist. "You were really lucky there," says the cyclist. "What on earth are you talking about! That really hurt!" says the pedestrian, still on the pavement, rubbing his head. But the cyclist replied, "Well, usually I drive a bus!"
Great job RJ. Need a tool , make a tool
Very impressive construction rj, i would try a axial bearing instead of the washer, and i would grease the threads.
Good job 👍 I move my seatpost every so often to make sure its ok..
Very nice extraction! You could have the lower link to seatpost, contain a bar to touch the square tubes so no torque goes to the frame. But I don't think that is really a problem. A smaller hole washer around threaded rod under the coupler nut would also give more area to prevent deformation (and thicker). Maybe some seatpost will give if using the hole for the bolt that holds the seat on but it also will deflect the post in a way we don't want. (I am guessing that the Al. will fail first there if it doesn't work) Very nice video! Nice work.
Great tool, I'm going into the garage to make one!
What a great device...nice work RJ.
THIS IS AWESOME RJ!
Great job!! I cheated when I needed to get a post out. I made a solution of lye. It worked really well. I protected the paint by using rubber corks on all the frame tubes (inside and out), taped a home made funnel to the seatpost opening, then covered the entire frame with plastic drop sheeting, kept a loaded garden hose at my side.
Nicely done! The weakest link is the threaded rod and nut. I would use a high tensile, and if you wanna go to town with it - a thrust bearing under the nut.
I have added a thrust bearing, but haven't a chance to try it. That rod is pretty heavy.
You should be called RJ the amazing bike guy. My Chief at work deals with the same problem nearly everyday and can't get them all out👌
Soooo satisfying. Great job!!!
Congratulations! This is the tool for for the job! I spent days fiddling with spanners, blowtorches and hammers to extract one seized seatpost. I would have been quicker building that tool and removing the seatpost even if it was just for one time. By the way you could put a flat ball bearing under top nut to reduce draging
In order to make the task easier, it would be a good idea to use a can of electronic freezer spray on the aluminium seat stem. That is because aluminium contracts three times more than steel when frozen, hence making it a lot less effort to extract the seat post.
I really could need that! NICE Idea!
That's a really good tool you invented there.maybe you can make a patent and get it into a set and sell em to bike store's
grease the threads rj , it will turn a bit easier. also under presure you can tap it some. great tool .
I did.
use a thrust bearing under the washer. That will help reduce the friction when tightening
The newest design has one. But I haven't had a chance to try it yet.
@@RJTheBikeGuy And good amount of oil or grease on the threads and where the nut presses on the washer/or bearing. Want to minimize the friction as much as possible with that much force on those, similar to automotive puller tools usage.
@@PhaseP1 It was greased.
for frozen parts I starting using the tapping like tapping the jar lid idea and that might help.
Nice looking retro bike, I have a similar looking M.B.K. frame with low rear brake.
Congratulations. Nice tool.
Big fan of these videos! 🎉 Whats the most economic way to pull stuck seat post out?
This inspires me. Have you ever seen a fence post puller?
I haven't. I just glanced at a picture. Maybe....
This a really cool tool you made, a high lift jack works the same way just invert the frame in a pro park professional bike stand and reverse the jack rathchet cranking it down while standing on the heavy steel plate.WD40 RUST REMOVAL is what i use to eat thru the corrosion.
I was looking forward to this!
Same.
Nice☺ Some knocking in seatpost with the hammer while nut turning should help.
Hi Rj. What passes through the bottom bracket? Won't the pulling force damage the threads?
Works better then the sawalls from the other video... interesting that you mention higher end bikes who are made with lighter materials this tool might snap those bikes in half
I dont understand english very well, but I learned a lot just by looking, you are a genius👍
Omg this was so easy and simplistic
Very nice RJ! I like it!
Wonder if the bottom bracket shell is an inch lower now! Amazing guy you are RJ!
Excellent tool ! Good job
Awesome video RJ!
Awesome idea! As for the last part, any time I've tried applying force to the head of the seatpost, it just pops the head off. I'd stick to drilling the post itself.
I salute your genius sir.
I wished you lived close to me here in SE Michigan. I would love to rent out this tool to free up a seatpost for a project for the wife
that tool is BOSS!!
What about threading the center of the seat post with an internal thread tap to install a large bolt and pull and turn on it that way?
Great video. Nice job on setpost
Since you are able to pull up using the puller, I wonder if a few hit on the post with a small sledge hammer down into the frame just to get the grip to break, then pulling might become easier. Just a thought.
After the first crack sound, the grip was as broken as it was going to get.
I have an alu frame with a stuck carbon post, do you think these forces would be too much for the frame?
Pouring boiling water over the post worked for me. The heating and cooling of the metal helps expand it and loosens the seatpost.
I have tried heat/cold multiple times, and never worked. Maybe if the post is only slightly stuck.
Maybe weld a washer to the coupler... I think it will be better than replacing it with a larger nut.
Buy another bike!
RJ, I would grease the threads with NevrSeeze, might make it easier and protect the threads.
The threads were greased.
The absolute in seat post removal technolgy!
I have to admit that I wouldn't have the balls to try this twice, as it reminds me of trying to compress coil springs from a auto suspension. This was awesome nonetheless!
I've done that. That was scary.
Wow it's really hard to imagine just how tight the thing is
i just installed a new aluminum post on a steel frame with stuck aluminin post, how often is good to relube the post before it gets stuck again maybe once a year is enough with plenty of safety marginal.
As for the rod nut, you could try to use two washers with grease or better yet. Using a small trailer wheel bearing, or something like that. By getting rid af all that friction would make the job so much easier.
LOVE the hidden joke at 4:25. Is this something you do often, I haven't seen it.
I did it on a handful of videos.
Love your perseverance!
Working very good...
I've seen bottom bracket shells on Italian steel frames that are open on the bottom presumably for weight reduction or service, or perhaps for driving out a stuck seatpost.
Surprised me a bit... Even after the initial pop... and it broke loose... it still wasn't giving up easy...
U are a genius man good job
With all the force along the long side tubes of the tool, it may be worth welding a couple of flat bar braces between/across the long tubes at a couple of points along their length to preclude any buckling of the tubes under load.
Umm...then it would not fit down over the bike frame...
Easier solution is use heavier gauge steel tubing.
Glad you didnt crush the frame :) Steel is real!
Grate idea ,(would it possible to put add one more bolt for reverse movements).I really enjoy your channel!
I don't know what you mean.
Hats off to ya brother... I would have put the whole thing out by the street after 10 minutes. Nice video😁
Cool tool ! Looks real sturdy and worked well . I wonder if once you get the post broke free if it might help to try some Penetrating oil and at the same time push the post back in a little so you can get some back and forth movement instead of just pulling alone ?
Probably not much if at all.
And you would be undoing the gains you have already made.
How would you remove a seat post that had fallen into the the frame"s seat tube? The top of the post is about 5 inches below the top of tube. The post is just a cylinder about a foot long that is wedged firmly into the post. There is nothing to grab to withdraw it. I have lubed the post and inverted the bike. I tried hammering on the bottom of the bracket cylinder, but no avail. I don't want to use lye, and I cannot cut slots in the tube that is out of reach. I don't want to heat the tube to try expanding it. The paint would be scorched. I think I just must leave the post in there and fit another seat post in the top 5 inches of the frame's seat tube. I am open to other suggestions. It there something I could screw into the seat post to extract it? I am thinking of a screw extractor as a model. Is there a pipe extractor that I could screw into the top of the seat post in order to extract it?