buy some caustic soda powder and mix it with water, cut the aluminum post flush with the tube. You will have to plug the hole in the bottom bracket then fill the tube with the caustic soda & water. the mixture is very harsh on aluminum and will dissolve the post in a few hours, but will not harm the steel tube.
This method worked for me where everything else failed! A shop even had a chance for a few days and apologetically told me the frame was now toast since they tried everything. Two days later I freed the stuck post with a reciprocating saw and the same blades that RJ uses. Made 3 total cuts, two of which took a perfect quarter out of the post all the way down to the bottom, which made the rest twist out easily. Didn't need air tools at the end, just a pair of vice grips, PB Blaster, and some easy twisting action. I used a brake hone tool to clean up the inside of the frame and a new post has already been greased up and installed. Thank you for this video!
My aluminum seat post was badly stuck in a steel frame. I applied penetrating oil several times before attempting to remove the post. I managed to rotate it completely after oiling but it was still extremely tight and would not budge vertically. I tried to remove it with a 10lb slide hammer with absolutely no effect. Finally, I decided to try the slit cutting approach. I first cut open the seat post with around an inch protruding from the opening of the seat tube. Then, I cut two slits in opposite directions of the post with the intention of splitting it in two pieces. This method worked, and the post eventually came out of the seat tube with the motion of the blade (the two sides of the post were almost separated). No other tools were necessary. The post was around 8 inches deep below the top of the seat tube, so I had to use a 12 inch blade (6 tpi). Keep in mind that this method can be very laborious. Took me around 6 hours to accomplish the mission.
RJ, I inherited a clunker of a bicycle with a seat post recessed and rusted in the seat tube. As bicycle mechanic hobbyist, and viewing your videos I called a friend to bring his electric saw and propane tank, which he did. However he came with everything and also a can of PB BLASTER, and it was like watching a magic trick. He sprayed the walls of the seat tube frame and between the seat post , a nice amount and let sit for a minute or two and then inserted pipe extractor, size 1/2 " or 3/4 " into the seat post and hand tighten it a bit before using a wrench and screwed it in , and presto the seat post came out with the extractor like butter, and saved a bicycle for a needy child.
Many thanks, totally recommend this removal method for everyone where they've given up on all the other methods. It worked a treat for me after being lumbered with an incredibly stuck post. So stuck in fact, that (after first trying a slide hammer, leveraging a fitted saddle, loads of penetrating oil etc) I used a 36" length pipe wrench and only succeeded in twisting off the top of the post, and this was no easy feat judging by the fact that the cheap seatpost had a super thick wall, about 3/4 of a cm, and was internally ribbed to boot! After this I got stuck in with a cheap reciprocating saw and saw the light. Had some slight difficulty finding a blade that was thin enough to fit inside the narrow space inside the post, as well as one that was long enough to cut to the bottom of it. And here I would mention a small criticism for TJ during the sawing process. He recommends that several cuts should be made before having an attempt to budge the post. However, in my case I'd just made one (but very thorough) cut, and then went for the mole grips to test if there was movement. There was:) So you might save yourself a little grief by trying this. But the most important of TJ's tips here might just be the use of the coarse tooth blade, instead of the standard metal cutting one. Reason being that, despite making a v thorough cut which definitely would have made contact with the inside of seat tube, there was no damage to it. It's true that I did test the deepness of the cut occasionally using a hacksaw blade to try and get a 'feel' if I was through the soft alloy post and making contact with the harder steel (which seems to catch against the blade more), but this isn't foolproof. And of course an equally big benefit of seeing this vid is just that it gives you a big dose of motivation to get stuck into a difficult job like this one, which if you don't have it, I'm sure that more often than not it will end up with the bike owner giving up on the frame:( So a big thumbs up here, and not that much work done:) BTW my stuck post was in a Reynolds 853 frame (definitely worth saving!) which I've heard several times now that for some reason they're more susceptible to getting stuck posts. So if you have one of these, better regrease the thing now and avoid the cutting work!
After watching this several times in the past year ,finally I got help from my neighbour who used his recipricator saw to make cuts in my alloy post then used a hammer and chisel to free part of the post,it then pulled out,with no other damage to the carbon frame. i watch a lot of your stuff,think you are great to watch,love the improvisation techniques. Keep up the good work fixing bikes,All the best from England. Mark.
@@jakecole7447 ..just use over time all year round i guess without moving the post (life's lessons i guess)the bike shops couldnt shift it either so was a last resort..
RJ- I can't thank you enough for this video. I've got an older Schwinn Prologue road with a stem that wouldn't just wasn't going to move. I went through all sorts of videos on the unsticking of a seat stem before running across yours. Using a Sawzall and a pipe wrench, the stem was out in under 10 minutes. This shouldn't be a last resort method, but the first and only way to take care of this problem. Awesome video and thanks...
Thank you for all your videos. I use a system you might like to investigate. Cut the post off level with the top of the down tube. Get a couple of tree drills (step drills) and grind off all but one larger than the hole in the pillar. Leaving the smaller sizes as a guide. Push in and withdraw which will spread the cuttings everywhere. Use a hex drive extension on your drill to get to the bottom.Use another sized to suit the new hole diameter.When you are left with a small bit remaining, cut the bottom of a steel seat pillar of the correct size with an angle cut to get rid of the rolled end and also give a cutting point, this will curl the aluminum over and hit it with the step drill again. regards Vince.
So i didnt even think this would of been a good idea , Ive been battle a seat post for a few days now, so i just cut it and it came right out... Appreciate the video bro
Thank you! I just accomplished this on a 1988 Rockhopper using a sawzall and vise grips and an air hammer! Genius idea using the grips and the air hammer, thats what did it for me.
ur video worked...my seatpost aluminum 8 inch inside tube...in my 81cromoly mongoose bmx frame....i tried all other ways...did ur cut it out video...got 12" sawall blade ..ground down blade to about 1/2" so i cud get inside seatpost...slotted one side...then exact opposite side...well with cut slots it fell out from shaking while cutting ...worked great RJ...thanks so much...
Worked like a charm! Don't spend more than a day trying the other methods. After that, definitely rent or borrow a circular saw and go this route. I rented the saw and bought blades from Home Depot I didn't even have to try to hammer out the bike post . Once I cut it down as explained in the video, I simply cut just one slot throughout the rest of the post (I cut the slot in between the notch of the seat tube). Then, I squeezed in both sides of the bike post with vice grips and it just came right out. All done in about 30 minutes Note: If you get the Sawsall, set both the blade speed and the trigger to maximum. That way the blade won't catch into the metal while you're sawing and make the saw jerk out of your hands... Thanks RJ!
RJ, I inherited a clunker of a bicycle with a seat post recessed in the seat post. As bicycle mechanic hobbyist, and viewing your videos I called a friend to bring his saw and propane tank, which he did. He came with a can of PB BLASTER, and it was watching a magic trick. He sprayed inside around the seat post a nice amount and let sit for a minute or two and inserted pipe extractor, size 1/2 " or 3/4 " into the seat post and hand tighten a bit and used a wrench screwed it in , and presto the seat post came out with the extractor like butter, and saved a bicycle for a needy child.
My guess is it wasn't stuck too bad. They can be pretty much welded in place. I have used PB Blaster, Kano, Kroil, etc. Here is an interesting video: ua-cam.com/video/xUEob2oAKVs/v-deo.html I would be interested in the type of pipe extractor you used. Always looking for new options. It might be useful in cases where the seatpost has been cut off.
After RJ's slide hammer didn't work and every other idea failed we tried this technique with success. It was a miserable few hours but the seized post was finally free although it was utterly destroyed. If this didn't work it was only the lye technique that remained. Thanks RJ!
I appreciate this video, it works for me !! In the past I just throw two frames into the garbage...just with the same problem.......THX A LOT for sharing !!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have a tip for protecting the frame. As you cut, put a magnet near the end exit and watch the debris. Once it starts sticking to the magnet you have hit steel .
Drastic remedies are at times called for. Great job!!! BTW had a similar situation but with a carbon frame. After trying every trick on UA-cam, I proceeded to gently chisel out the seat post. Took several days to cut down the length of the thin walled aluminum tube and then pryed out chunks of tubing. Polished the inside of the seat tube with emery cloth with a tool I made on the end of a drill.
Thank you i tried to remove the seat post with a pipe wrench and i broke the seat post i was sure that the bike was ruined and i found your video and i cut it with the sawzall and it worked thank a lot 😁 im very happy
Bravo RJ! Very satisfying. Had a similar problem with carbon seat post in a carbon frame. I used a carpenter's chisel to split the post which was aluminum with a carbon over wrap.
Thank you very much. I have an old Nishiki that I am struggling to get a seatpost old that was forced in by a previous owner. I was thinking if this idea is going to work, and you just proofed it can work
Yes oh Yes....the joy when it comes free. Ha ha love it! I have recently done the same method on my own single speed project the video wont be up for some time yet, the frame needs respraying etc. I ended up welding an axe saw blade to a steel rod to collapse the tube. Hard work, yes and really is a last resort, becomes almost obsessive. Thanks for tips and sharing Andy
I got one out using the drip liquid wrench from bb opening down the seat tube for 2 or 3 days and then gently twisting the frame (not by the stays!) with the seatpost clamped in a vise, what a rush when it finally moves! Congrats on a successful surgery.
This looks like a great method to get out the stuck post. I tried this and so far no luck. Used a 12 inch blade on the saw and the air hammer trick. I will keep at it with the PB Blaster and hope for the best!
Hello friend, you are a genius. Amazing your method of removing that damn seat post. You know, I bought a bicycle and I had not realized that I had improvised a piece of pipe to the seat of the bicycle and tightened it with a screw. When I remove it I find that the seatpost is completely locked. I tried everything and I can't remove it. I'm going to put your method into practice. I send you cordial greetings from Argentina. Very good your video.
Liked and subscribed. Thanks, this worked for me after trying everything with a nightmare seat post. Notes: had to make sure I cut through the post in the slots; Regular hammer worked fine with vice grips; had to whack it in with a sledge a bit to make it budge before hammering it out. Thanks again.
Once I get the rusted post out I run a rotary wire wheel down through to try to eliminate as much of the companion damage. And lots of grease - the post doesn't clamp that deep, you won't make it too slippery.
I just saw your video where you build a puller "v2" with threaded rod inplace of hydraulic. Building something similar that grabs the post and then use the impact hammer to hit it up and out where the impact action is directly in line with the seat post.
I have this same situation with my friends bike. I've been melting the seatpost with drain cleaner because I don't have a saw to cut it with. NaOH ruins the paint though, gotta do some touch up after.
I gotta a stuck Selcof seatpost. Spent a couple of weeks oiling, heating, twisting it - nothing. So cut the top off and to my surprise the seatpost wall is super thick like 10mm! Have you seen one like this?
Thanks for the video. You mentioned you tried dry ice before. Did you measured by chance how cold the seatpost got as you tried dry ice? Thanks in advance!
I had that trick in mind but with a handle. This may be a good reason to get me one of them electric saw. 😁👍 RJ .. awesome DIY and bike mechanic channe! Just the channel I've been looking for. Now I can rescue and restore many bicycles (vintages in particular) that people are getting rid off. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
what about disintegrating the seatpost with HCl (muriatic acid) I tried this with a quill aluminium stem stuck to a steel fork and it worked great. Although the saw method looks less messy/toxic
Really! I didn't know that, all I've seen here was either steel posts in steel frames or aluminum posts in aluminum frames, and they even sell steel posts with Aluminum frames, not the opposite
I'm actually stuck wiht a seatpost and I think I'll do this last resort sometime soon. If I don't have a air hammer would a normal hammer suffice for it?
Was able to remove my stuck up seat post. My bike was so old school it was a metal frame and metal seat post. I confirmed the latter using a magnet. At first, I was seriously considering welding a bolt at the end and using a slide hammer to get it off. Surely that would work. The solution I used was to soak the post with WD-40. Kept spraying for as long as I could see it trickle down. Then, I took my butane torch and just pointed the flame at the seat post for about 10 minutes. Then I changed the position so I can heat it from a different angle. Maybe total time spent heating was about 30 minutes. In the last 5 minutes, I first started to pound it downward to test for movement. I was buoyed when I saw some miniscule sparks fly upward with each pound. Then, I smacked it down harder repeatedly until I finally saw it move down about ½". Then, I put out the flame and with the bike on its side, grabbed my huge pipe wrench and started to rotate it. Stiff at first but I soon got about 30 degrees of rotation. Set the bike upright, then clamped on a large vise grip. Rotated it again back and forth while spraying it with more WD-40. Then, with a hammer, started hitting the vise-grip upwards. It started to come out and eventually was able to pull it out all the way! Gonna try the same technique for my handle bar shaft! The lock bolt for the wedge had snapped already!
I've been fortunate to have never had this problem. So just a method I haven't seen applied yet. Remove the bottom bracket and spray the penetrating oil up the seat tube.
Love it! have toy ever given any thought to apply pressure to the inside of the seat tube to remove a stuck seat post? Water pressure would probably be preferable (safer) than air, but either might work. Thanks for your videos!
I assume you tried the vise grips + air hammer before cutting slots in the post? Seems like a good technique in its own right! Regardless, well done. Great step-by-step; I'll have to give it a try!
Shame you don’t live in the UK i would have found you a skip to dump it in. But you did well to remove it, First class job well done and yes was very useful
I'm about to employ this method on my '97 Bontrager. It's either this or Sodium Hydroxide (pure Drano), Total last resort. Update: Cut the seatpost off and it's re-inforced with a vertical beam down the middle. Grrreat.
Hey Rob - Success! I'd be curious to have you throw a caliper/micrometer on that seat post at end, midpoint, and end, if you kept it. We run into galvanic action all the time in building forensics.
Have you ever ran into a seat post stuck in the frame under the seat post being used? I ran into that a few years ago used about half a can of pb blaster and had to weld tabs on the end of a slide hammer to get it out, took about 6 hours
Excellent video RJ - nice extraction! I wonder if I can pick your brains with a bit of a challenge? I've just received a Ti MTB frame, that has the remnants of a stuck ally seatpin in the seat-tube. A previous owner (cretin), appears to have cut the tube off, and bashed the remnants down INTO the seattube! It's a fair way down. They've then compunded this grotesque action by adding in some expanding foam for good measure. It looks like I need to try and find a way to get through the foam first, to try and clear a hole that I can stick a saw in with, and then once this is done, try to gently cut some slots into the remnants of the broken seatpin to attempt to extract. I wondered if you had any thoughts at all? (No, I've never heard the like of it either!) It's worth the effort, as it's a '91 Merlin Ti MTB frame and in lovely condition apart from this!
They might have tried to dissolve it with Sodium Hydroxide (Drano without the additives) and put foam in to keep it from getting into the rest of the frame. I was about to do this but will try the saw first. The Drano is supposed to work
Actually it didn’t look welded on. It looks like it just had bad corrosion build up. That was causing the seat-post to press/expand down onto and bite onto the seat-tube.
RJ, I have a problem with my seat post. I need to stick the seatpost clamp which is made of aluminium, to my frame which is made of carbon. Looking for a short to medium term cheap solution (even better if long term). Any suggestions?
For more bike repair videos hit the subscribe button ► bit.ly/SubRJTheBikeGuy
buy some caustic soda powder and mix it with water, cut the aluminum post flush with the tube. You will have to plug the hole in the bottom bracket then fill the tube with the caustic soda & water. the mixture is very harsh on aluminum and will dissolve the post in a few hours, but will not harm the steel tube.
@Ian Brown did you see that video, RJ did removing a stuck seat post with an impact? HaHa he has both kids out idea's beat. 😂
U NEED TO USE A FUCKEN BLOW TORCH NOT A HEAT GUN U MORON
In 35 years as a bike mechanic I've fought to the death with many seized seat posts and stems. I shared your joy when that one came out.
and Bottom Brackets I would imagine...
At my age getting a stuck seat post out is one of the greatest satisfactions a man can have. Maybe I need to get out more.
This method worked for me where everything else failed! A shop even had a chance for a few days and apologetically told me the frame was now toast since they tried everything. Two days later I freed the stuck post with a reciprocating saw and the same blades that RJ uses.
Made 3 total cuts, two of which took a perfect quarter out of the post all the way down to the bottom, which made the rest twist out easily. Didn't need air tools at the end, just a pair of vice grips, PB Blaster, and some easy twisting action. I used a brake hone tool to clean up the inside of the frame and a new post has already been greased up and installed. Thank you for this video!
I didn't need the air hammer, but I had it, and it was fast.
Fast is exactly why I quickly came to terms with using a reciprocating saw. Thank you again for the inspiration.
My aluminum seat post was badly stuck in a steel frame. I applied penetrating oil several times before attempting to remove the post. I managed to rotate it completely after oiling but it was still extremely tight and would not budge vertically. I tried to remove it with a 10lb slide hammer with absolutely no effect. Finally, I decided to try the slit cutting approach. I first cut open the seat post with around an inch protruding from the opening of the seat tube. Then, I cut two slits in opposite directions of the post with the intention of splitting it in two pieces. This method worked, and the post eventually came out of the seat tube with the motion of the blade (the two sides of the post were almost separated). No other tools were necessary. The post was around 8 inches deep below the top of the seat tube, so I had to use a 12 inch blade (6 tpi). Keep in mind that this method can be very laborious. Took me around 6 hours to accomplish the mission.
Probably the greatest method for getting out a stuck seatpost I've ever seen. Thanks a bunch!
RJ, I inherited a clunker of a bicycle with a seat post recessed and rusted in the seat tube. As bicycle mechanic hobbyist, and viewing your videos I called a friend to bring his electric saw and propane tank, which he did. However he came with everything and also a can of PB BLASTER, and it was like watching a magic trick. He sprayed the walls of the seat tube frame and between the seat post , a nice amount and let sit for a minute or two and then inserted pipe extractor, size 1/2 " or 3/4 " into the seat post and hand tighten it a bit before using a wrench and screwed it in , and presto the seat post came out with the extractor like butter, and saved a bicycle for a needy child.
it's so satisfying getting a stuck seat post unstuck
Finally! I found the right video! I tried everything to get my seat post out of an almost 20 y/o bmx and nothing worked, now it just popped out.
Many thanks, totally recommend this removal method for everyone where they've given up on all the other methods. It worked a treat for me after being lumbered with an incredibly stuck post. So stuck in fact, that (after first trying a slide hammer, leveraging a fitted saddle, loads of penetrating oil etc) I used a 36" length pipe wrench and only succeeded in twisting off the top of the post, and this was no easy feat judging by the fact that the cheap seatpost had a super thick wall, about 3/4 of a cm, and was internally ribbed to boot! After this I got stuck in with a cheap reciprocating saw and saw the light. Had some slight difficulty finding a blade that was thin enough to fit inside the narrow space inside the post, as well as one that was long enough to cut to the bottom of it. And here I would mention a small criticism for TJ during the sawing process. He recommends that several cuts should be made before having an attempt to budge the post. However, in my case I'd just made one (but very thorough) cut, and then went for the mole grips to test if there was movement. There was:) So you might save yourself a little grief by trying this. But the most important of TJ's tips here might just be the use of the coarse tooth blade, instead of the standard metal cutting one. Reason being that, despite making a v thorough cut which definitely would have made contact with the inside of seat tube, there was no damage to it. It's true that I did test the deepness of the cut occasionally using a hacksaw blade to try and get a 'feel' if I was through the soft alloy post and making contact with the harder steel (which seems to catch against the blade more), but this isn't foolproof. And of course an equally big benefit of seeing this vid is just that it gives you a big dose of motivation to get stuck into a difficult job like this one, which if you don't have it, I'm sure that more often than not it will end up with the bike owner giving up on the frame:(
So a big thumbs up here, and not that much work done:)
BTW my stuck post was in a Reynolds 853 frame (definitely worth saving!) which I've heard several times now that for some reason they're more susceptible to getting stuck posts. So if you have one of these, better regrease the thing now and avoid the cutting work!
After watching this several times in the past year ,finally I got help from my neighbour who used his recipricator saw to make cuts in my alloy post then used a hammer and chisel to free part of the post,it then pulled out,with no other damage to the carbon frame. i watch a lot of your stuff,think you are great to watch,love the improvisation techniques. Keep up the good work fixing bikes,All the best from England. Mark.
what the hell how did it seize up so bad in a carbon frame ? logically you shouldnt have any problems with galvanized corrosion should ya ?
@@jakecole7447 ..just use over time all year round i guess without moving the post (life's lessons i guess)the bike shops couldnt shift it either so was a last resort..
Finally someone who really is talented... So helpful!
RJ- I can't thank you enough for this video. I've got an older Schwinn Prologue road with a stem that wouldn't just wasn't going to move. I went through all sorts of videos on the unsticking of a seat stem before running across yours. Using a Sawzall and a pipe wrench, the stem was out in under 10 minutes. This shouldn't be a last resort method, but the first and only way to take care of this problem. Awesome video and thanks...
Wow man, some great tips here! Never would have thought of these steps to get that seat post out. Thank you!
Tried ammonia, pipe wrench and handheld hacksaw. Nothing moved. Borrowed a reciprocating saw and bought 2 wood blades. Success. You’re a bikesaver! Thanks
Love how you never give up!!!!!!
Its 4 AM here in Germany never miss a video 👍🏻
RJ I know exactly what it's like to have a seat post try to beat you. I shared your elation when you finally removed it. Great job man!!
RJ. Thank-you for the heart. I hope you will make a video of it when you have a chance. Have a good summer.
I find this video extremely gratifying and exciting to watch. excellent!
Thank you for all your videos. I use a system you might like to investigate. Cut the post off level with the top of the down tube. Get a couple of tree drills (step drills) and grind off all but one larger than the hole in the pillar. Leaving the smaller sizes as a guide. Push in and withdraw which will spread the cuttings everywhere. Use a hex drive extension on your drill to get to the bottom.Use another sized to suit the new hole diameter.When you are left with a small bit remaining, cut the bottom of a steel seat pillar of the correct size with an angle cut to get rid of the rolled end and also give a cutting point, this will curl the aluminum over and hit it with the step drill again. regards Vince.
What a victory over the bad old rust! Congrats! A blade for cutting wood in order not to cut the steel - very clever! I like your hammer tool!
So i didnt even think this would of been a good idea , Ive been battle a seat post for a few days now, so i just cut it and it came right out... Appreciate the video bro
5:45 I guess a Suergeon makes the same statement after removing a Tumor :-)
Thank you! I just accomplished this on a 1988 Rockhopper using a sawzall and vise grips and an air hammer! Genius idea using the grips and the air hammer, thats what did it for me.
ur video worked...my seatpost aluminum 8 inch inside tube...in my 81cromoly mongoose bmx frame....i tried all other ways...did ur cut it out video...got 12" sawall blade ..ground down blade to about 1/2" so i cud get inside seatpost...slotted one side...then exact opposite side...well with cut slots it fell out from shaking while cutting ...worked great RJ...thanks so much...
Can't wait to breakout the air hammer and go to work on my stuck seat post. Thanks for posting.
Worked like a charm! Don't spend more than a day trying the other methods. After that, definitely rent or borrow a circular saw and go this route. I rented the saw and bought blades from Home Depot
I didn't even have to try to hammer out the bike post . Once I cut it down as explained in the video, I simply cut just one slot throughout the rest of the post (I cut the slot in between the notch of the seat tube).
Then, I squeezed in both sides of the bike post with vice grips and it just came right out. All done in about 30 minutes
Note: If you get the Sawsall, set both the blade speed and the trigger to maximum. That way the blade won't catch into the metal while you're sawing and make the saw jerk out of your hands...
Thanks RJ!
RJ, I inherited a clunker of a bicycle with a seat post recessed in the seat post. As bicycle mechanic hobbyist, and viewing your videos I called a friend to bring his saw and propane tank, which he did. He came with a can of PB BLASTER, and it was watching a magic trick. He sprayed inside around the seat post a nice amount and let sit for a minute or two and inserted pipe extractor, size 1/2 " or 3/4 " into the seat post and hand tighten a bit and used a wrench screwed it in , and presto the seat post came out with the extractor like butter, and saved a bicycle for a needy child.
My guess is it wasn't stuck too bad. They can be pretty much welded in place. I have used PB Blaster, Kano, Kroil, etc. Here is an interesting video: ua-cam.com/video/xUEob2oAKVs/v-deo.html
I would be interested in the type of pipe extractor you used. Always looking for new options. It might be useful in cases where the seatpost has been cut off.
RJ you are my favorite UA-cam bike mechanic. I've been learngin from you since 2014! Thanks for the tip!
the moment it started moving was so satisfying!
After RJ's slide hammer didn't work and every other idea failed we tried this technique with success. It was a miserable few hours but the seized post was finally free although it was utterly destroyed. If this didn't work it was only the lye technique that remained. Thanks RJ!
I appreciate this video, it works for me !! In the past I just throw two frames into the garbage...just with the same problem.......THX A LOT for sharing !!!!!!!!!!!!!
RJ - As always, brilliant and straight forward! Thanks for all of the great ideas.
Great to see it finally come out! nice job...
I have a tip for protecting the frame. As you cut, put a magnet near the end exit and watch the debris. Once it starts sticking to the magnet you have hit steel .
way to go RJ....Nice to beat a monster job like that. As always very informative. keep up the fine work in saving old bikes!
You got that sucker seatpost out, yeahh!! So satisfying, felt like i was saving my own frame from galvanic oxidation
I love to see how you pull out the ever-stuck seat post. innovative
Drastic remedies are at times called for. Great job!!! BTW had a similar situation but with a carbon frame. After trying every trick on UA-cam, I proceeded to gently chisel out the seat post. Took several days to cut down the length of the thin walled aluminum tube and then pryed out chunks of tubing. Polished the inside of the seat tube with emery cloth with a tool I made on the end of a drill.
Very timely. Im having trouble with a stuck seat post on an old bicycle i recently bought. Ill try this tomorrow. Thanks for the big help!
Thank you i tried to remove the seat post with a pipe wrench and i broke the seat post i was sure that the bike was ruined and i found your video and i cut it with the sawzall and it worked thank a lot 😁 im very happy
Worked perfectly, thanks for the video! Vice grips trick was key to getting the post out.
Bravo RJ! Very satisfying. Had a similar problem with carbon seat post in a carbon frame. I used a carpenter's chisel to split the post which was aluminum with a carbon over wrap.
I've had this happen, all I did was cut the seat post to the correct hight for me (It was much to tall), and put the seat back on ...
Oh boy, guess I know how I will spend my sunday morning this week.
"And I've got that sucker out of there !!!" We were all waiting for that moment haha
Thanks for sharing! Exactly what I needed!
Thank you very much. I have an old Nishiki that I am struggling to get a seatpost old that was forced in by a previous owner. I was thinking if this idea is going to work, and you just proofed it can work
Yes oh Yes....the joy when it comes free. Ha ha love it! I have recently done the same method on my own single speed project the video wont be up for some time yet, the frame needs respraying etc. I ended up welding an axe saw blade to a steel rod to collapse the tube. Hard work, yes and really is a last resort, becomes almost obsessive. Thanks for tips and sharing Andy
I got one out using the drip liquid wrench from bb opening down the seat tube for 2 or 3 days and then gently twisting the frame (not by the stays!) with the seatpost clamped in a vise, what a rush when it finally moves! Congrats on a successful surgery.
Then it wasn't as stuck as this one.
Well persevered, RJ - great technique! 👍🏻
This looks like a great method to get out the stuck post. I tried this and so far no luck. Used a 12 inch blade on the saw and the air hammer trick. I will keep at it with the PB Blaster and hope for the best!
Well done...I may have to do this by hand ...frozen seat post from 90s. Will try citric acid and pipe wrench first.
As soon as I heard that slightly different impact sound as you were hitting it with hammer, I knew you had it.
very nice idea to removing frozen seat post
Hello friend, you are a genius. Amazing your method of removing that damn seat post. You know, I bought a bicycle and I had not realized that I had improvised a piece of pipe to the seat of the bicycle and tightened it with a screw. When I remove it I find that the seatpost is completely locked. I tried everything and I can't remove it. I'm going to put your method into practice. I send you cordial greetings from Argentina. Very good your video.
Great video which was a big help for me to be able to remove my seatpost!!thanx for the vid RJ👍👍
Liked and subscribed. Thanks, this worked for me after trying everything with a nightmare seat post. Notes: had to make sure I cut through the post in the slots; Regular hammer worked fine with vice grips; had to whack it in with a sledge a bit to make it budge before hammering it out. Thanks again.
Once I get the rusted post out I run a rotary wire wheel down through to try to eliminate as much of the companion damage. And lots of grease - the post doesn't clamp that deep, you won't make it too slippery.
gonna do this thanks RJ your videos have helped me so much !
helpful. I used a torch to warm up the post and then hit it down to break it loose
You're awesome. Most of us would have a pile of bikes in the backyard. That last trick was great. I have an idea for a tool thanks to you!
I just saw your video where you build a puller "v2" with threaded rod inplace of hydraulic. Building something similar that grabs the post and then use the impact hammer to hit it up and out where the impact action is directly in line with the seat post.
You deserve a Pepsi Cola!
The phosphoric acid in the Pepsi would be good for your guts! NOT! Maybe a corroded seat post'
Anything is better than diet Mountain Dew.
This video is brought to you by... Pepsi.
Thanks again for another awesome video, RJ!
You are amazing. Very resourceful. Bravo.
I’m at the last resort with my seat post. I have tried everything, I will give this a go at the weekend.
Sabba Keynejad any luck using this method?
claps and more claps, nice job men! expert work with superb knowledge of materials, tools, and technique
I have this same situation with my friends bike. I've been melting the seatpost with drain cleaner because I don't have a saw to cut it with. NaOH ruins the paint though, gotta do some touch up after.
Halleujah!!! I can hear the heaven sings in celebration when you pulled out that sucker.
I gotta a stuck Selcof seatpost. Spent a couple of weeks oiling, heating, twisting it - nothing. So cut the top off and to my surprise the seatpost wall is super thick like 10mm! Have you seen one like this?
Thanks for the video. You mentioned you tried dry ice before. Did you measured by chance how cold the seatpost got as you tried dry ice? Thanks in advance!
I had that trick in mind but with a handle. This may be a good reason to get me one of them electric saw. 😁👍
RJ .. awesome DIY and bike mechanic channe! Just the channel I've been looking for. Now I can rescue and restore many bicycles (vintages in particular) that people are getting rid off. Thanks for sharing your ideas.
Hello if an aluminum seat post is properly greased before it is installed into a steel frame, then can such a problem like this be avoided?
NICE JOB! You're a clever guy dude! :)
what about disintegrating the seatpost with HCl (muriatic acid) I tried this with a quill aluminium stem stuck to a steel fork and it worked great. Although the saw method looks less messy/toxic
RJ and his wonderfull tools.
Nice job RJ. Would copperslip anit sieze compound stop or eliminate the problem of oxidization?
way to go, yet i still don't know who will get an aluminum seat post for a steel frame!
Mohamed Ali They have been using aluminum seat posts in steel frames since the 1950s. You just need to put plenty of grease on them when installing
Really! I didn't know that, all I've seen here was either steel posts in steel frames or aluminum posts in aluminum frames, and they even sell steel posts with Aluminum frames, not the opposite
I'm actually stuck wiht a seatpost and I think I'll do this last resort sometime soon. If I don't have a air hammer would a normal hammer suffice for it?
hey bro its a nice tool, where can i find the flea markit coz this jab saw" tool is very usefull?
i had the same problem with a chrome one , i welded a nut in the end and used a 4 foot pry bar and got it free
A steel post in a steel frame would not be a big deal. Just ordinary rust.
Was able to remove my stuck up seat post. My bike was so old school it was a metal frame and metal seat post. I confirmed the latter using a magnet.
At first, I was seriously considering welding a bolt at the end and using a slide hammer to get it off. Surely that would work.
The solution I used was to soak the post with WD-40. Kept spraying for as long as I could see it trickle down. Then, I took my butane torch and just pointed the flame at the seat post for about 10 minutes. Then I changed the position so I can heat it from a different angle. Maybe total time spent heating was about 30 minutes.
In the last 5 minutes, I first started to pound it downward to test for movement. I was buoyed when I saw some miniscule sparks fly upward with each pound.
Then, I smacked it down harder repeatedly until I finally saw it move down about ½". Then, I put out the flame and with the bike on its side, grabbed my huge pipe wrench and started to rotate it. Stiff at first but I soon got about 30 degrees of rotation.
Set the bike upright, then clamped on a large vise grip. Rotated it again back and forth while spraying it with more WD-40.
Then, with a hammer, started hitting the vise-grip upwards. It started to come out and eventually was able to pull it out all the way!
Gonna try the same technique for my handle bar shaft! The lock bolt for the wedge had snapped already!
I've been fortunate to have never had this problem. So just a method I haven't seen applied yet. Remove the bottom bracket and spray the penetrating oil up the seat tube.
ua-cam.com/video/bGqV5KE7cb8/v-deo.html
i have a problem with my mountain bike: the axle is a 10mm axle and has a little bit of play in the dropouts and its rubbing my frame please help
Love it! have toy ever given any thought to apply pressure to the inside of the seat tube to remove a stuck seat post? Water pressure would probably be preferable (safer) than air, but either might work. Thanks for your videos!
I assume you tried the vise grips + air hammer before cutting slots in the post? Seems like a good technique in its own right! Regardless, well done. Great step-by-step; I'll have to give it a try!
Fark man you got a helluva bunch of tools
i really understood solve power tool machine use put out as well.i found it!
Shame you don’t live in the UK i would have found you a skip to dump it in. But you did well to remove it, First class job well done and yes was very useful
I'm about to employ this method on my '97 Bontrager. It's either this or Sodium Hydroxide (pure Drano), Total last resort.
Update: Cut the seatpost off and it's re-inforced with a vertical beam down the middle. Grrreat.
Hey Rob - Success! I'd be curious to have you throw a caliper/micrometer on that seat post at end, midpoint, and end, if you kept it. We run into galvanic action all the time in building forensics.
Have you ever ran into a seat post stuck in the frame under the seat post being used? I ran into that a few years ago used about half a can of pb blaster and had to weld tabs on the end of a slide hammer to get it out, took about 6 hours
I haven't yet. Would be an interesting challenge.
Excellent video RJ - nice extraction!
I wonder if I can pick your brains with a bit of a challenge? I've just received a Ti MTB frame, that has the remnants of a stuck ally seatpin in the seat-tube. A previous owner (cretin), appears to have cut the tube off, and bashed the remnants down INTO the seattube! It's a fair way down. They've then compunded this grotesque action by adding in some expanding foam for good measure.
It looks like I need to try and find a way to get through the foam first, to try and clear a hole that I can stick a saw in with, and then once this is done, try to gently cut some slots into the remnants of the broken seatpin to attempt to extract.
I wondered if you had any thoughts at all? (No, I've never heard the like of it either!)
It's worth the effort, as it's a '91 Merlin Ti MTB frame and in lovely condition apart from this!
They might have tried to dissolve it with Sodium Hydroxide (Drano without the additives) and put foam in to keep it from getting into the rest of the frame. I was about to do this but will try the saw first. The Drano is supposed to work
Actually it didn’t look welded on. It looks like it just had bad corrosion build up. That was causing the seat-post to press/expand down onto and bite onto the seat-tube.
lubed from the bb?
Any tips for getting an alu seatpost out of an alu frame?
RJ, I have a problem with my seat post. I need to stick the seatpost clamp which is made of aluminium, to my frame which is made of carbon. Looking for a short to medium term cheap solution (even better if long term). Any suggestions?
2:05 OMG freehanding and fondling that shorn edge, burrs and all. I'm cringing thinking of all the metal splinters when I forget gloves.
Nicely done!