@@marcocarrillo4645 Generally freewheels are just replaced. They can be taken apart and worked on, but that is not the norm. Parts from another freewheel of the same brand/model would work. But again, you can just buy a new one.
I did this following his video. I had tried everything else but was starting to realize I might total the bike. So my grandfather and I made the tool and he was amazed that it worked. Thanks RJ!
Brilliant solution! I've seen pictures of the results of using a giant lever arm to try and rotate the seat post - it often ends in a twisted frame. This method uses force, but with repeated impact - much safer. A higher powered impact wrench may have been faster, but it also may have had results akin to a long lever arm. I'd be happy using just enough force to get the job done. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for your stuck seatpost videos, and particularly this one! This is what finally did the trick for me after trying the following, after just trying to twist it out by the seat (I have a Pivot Cycles carbon frame and aluminum dropper post): 1. Pipe strap wrench, normal temperature 2. Pipe wrench, normal temperature, post insert now destroyed from teeth on wrench. 3. Pipe strap wrench, but with dry ice filling up the seat post just after heating the seat tube with a heat gun 4. Pipe wrench with same as #3 5. Drill 3/8" hole through top of post insert and try 5 lb slide hammer (couldn't track down a 10 lb hammer) (like your other video) with heat, then dry ice 6. Invert bike, put ziploc bag tight around top of seat tube & post & fill seat tube with coca cola (per Pivot Cycles and other on-line suggestion) and let sit for two days to get at the galvanic corrosion. Then, make impact wrench socket tool per your video (more on this below) and rent an impact wrench and attempt. The impact wrench is what finally did the trick; before this, nothing even budged the seatpost. I didn't even try cooling the aluminum post down first. It took the second (of four) lowest torque setting (about 75-150 ft. lbs; the lowest setting did nothing). The impact wrench got it turning. Then I had a friend run the impact wrench while I tried to lift up on the socket with a crescent wrench, but then the top of the seat post insert sheared off. Luckily there was enough post sticking out, so I drilled another 3/8" hole through the top of the post, went back to the hardware store (for about the 8th time on this project) and got a 3/8" x about 9" lag bolt, and more dry ice. I filled the post up with dry ice, stuck the lag bolt through, and immediately started twisting and pulling up and was finally able to get it out by hand (after the impact wrench got it unseized). For me, one of the biggest pain in the asses of this overall pain in the ass was drilling the 3/8" hole all the way through the hardened steel socket. I used the carbon-tipped masonry bits, but I had to use three bits of three different sizes for EACH hole (plus a carbide-tipped glass bit), so 7 new bits total, and I destroyed all 7 bits. I did not have a drill press, only a hand drill, so perhaps that was part of the issue. I did spend a lot of time researching how to drill through hardened steel. In my case, the only thing that worked was starting with a small hole, then a bigger hole, then the 3/8" hole. I wish I had your attitude, because unlike you, I absolutely HATED trying to get this seatpost out and hope to never have to go through that again. This was done over about a 3-week period (I got discouraged after every attempt and had to give it a little break). I actually just bought a new dropper post that I can quickly and easily remove without having to undo the cable at the remote, which I will do every month or two (Pivot Cycles recommends no carbon paste, anti-seize, or grease between an aluminum seatpost and their carbon frame). Thanks again for making your awesome videos, as I used several of them for this project. Cheers to you RJ!
guess could heat the hardened socket with a torch at drilling ponts makes it softer when cooled, or just surround it with hot coals maybe, might even drill it while still red hot is it even softer then, guess bits need cooling and oiling so , lots of oil or maybe water oil emulsion. or just water if cooling is more imporant then oiling, maybe just used motor oil cheap.
Ingenious solution to a very common problem when buying second hand Bikes. I recently spent about 3 hours (over 3 different days) getting a seat post out of a 1998 Saracen Protrax which had been stored outdoors. I ruined a wooden mallet and the original saddle (no biggie as it was crap anyway). I sprayed untold amounts of WD40 down there and on day 3 I finally got it to move by jamming an old set of steel handlebars between the saddle rails, which gave me the leverage I needed to get the seat post to turn. Not as ingenious as your method, but I was that close to junking the whole frame, it gives a real sense of satisfaction when you beat something like that and "save" the bike.
You are a genius!!! We just tried it in our shop in Gainesville, Fl and it worked great. Now we can actually save good frames that before would go into the trash. Thank you for sharing your genius with the world!
I love it when "Crazy RJ" takes over the show! When I do something like this I yell to the neighbor ... "Hey Dennis I'm about to do something stupid. To which he replies ... "Hold on, let me grab the camera!"
That was amazing, brilliant, RJ! I also remove the bottom bracket, turn the frame upside down, and spray penetrant oil UP from the bottom, and let it soak-in.
I love this! This is the best method for removing a stuck seatpost I've ever seen! I have won a couple and lost a couple to stuck seatposts, always like the challenge, and sometimes the price can't be beat on bikes with stuck posts. Thanks for being you RJ, this is great, and I think I'll be doing this as well.
VERY impressive! Another excellent video on not ONLY removing a very difficult seatpole but also making a tool that can be used again and again. Imagine how many bikes have been sent to the landfill because of a stuck seatpole.( I've given up on 2 myself)
Why not drop in a large bolt that fits the inner diameter of the seatpost, drill and pin it, and then use an unmodified impact socket that fits the bolt? You could also add a washer that fits the bolt to get more of a flange to pull up on.
So far this is the best solution minus the fully built seat post remover tool. I will start soaking my seat post and try this in about a week or so. I will keep an eye out in thrift stores for an impact socket big enough for the job. Thanks!
Hats off to you. I did not think an impact wrench could do the job of breaking lose the stuck seat post. I have a vintage Nishiki road bike with a stuck seat post. For years I've tried different methods but has never been able to pull the post out.
Hello RJ the Bike Guy. I wanted to say your method went great for me. Your video was very helpful worked like a charm. Thanks and Salutations! Happy Holidays
Very impressive. However, I do not what to admire more - the actual technique of removing the seat post or all the tools and equipment that you have. I appreciate the fact that you have your own garage packed with tools, but most people do not have this luxury, so we have to live with what we have. From my perspective the easiest thing to do it - put some WD 40 in the post a let it stand for few hours, take the frame , put it in a bath, pour 3-4 litres of boiling water on the spot, with a pipe wrench (longer the better) try moving the post back and forth until it comes out. Tried it few times, worked fine form me. However, thank you for the video, your method is very sexy , you are turning the stuck post removal process into art...
I went to see your earlier videos for my seized frame, went all the way to sodium hydroxide, ended up machining it out. This is definitely a clever approach. Enjoyed the video.
I've wrangled with far more stuck posts than I care to admit. After seeing this brilliant method, I'd like to take that impact wrench to the twenty jerks who disliked this video and think they have a "better way." This is about as good as it gets when everything else fails. Thanks, RJ.
@@RJTheBikeGuy Gotta go through life with humor...without it, you'll sink like a stone. (P.S.: Thanks for being yourself. Too many stuck-up how-tos on UA-cam).
@@cudak888 Read through the comments on any of my stuck seatpost videos and you will find people who post stuff like, just spray it with WD-40 for a week, tap it with a hammer, and it will come right out...works every time. Just heat up the frame, and tap it with a hammer...works every time. Pretty much nothing works everytime with a seized seat post short of cutting it out.... Even using a big pipe wrench. Had one post where it just started crushing and twisting it. Ack!
@@RJTheBikeGuy Never underestimate the ignorance of someone who's had one very LUCKY experience with a stuck seatpost, and thinks it applies to every other stuck seatpost in existence. Always depends on the amount of aluminum oxide buildup, and only seasoned used bike mechanics know the drill (pun not intended). Worst stuck post I ever experienced was on my '61 Schwinn Paramount - it had a factory rolled aluminum post, installed in there since the beginning of time with no grease. No place to grab, and soft as butter. It's the only time I really did take time and care to hacksaw a post. It never really wanted to budge upwards, but the frame happened to have two huge dents in the seattube... so I used another post above it to carefully ram it down the tube, effectively pushing the dents back out. It sounds like a complete hack job (again, pun not intended), but it worked, with no damage to the 531. Post is still in there :)
@@cudak888 I have some other ideas for removal when I get some more bikes with seized posts. One for removing a post that is cut off or wedged down like that. I think it will work.
That’s a great method. I have just recently resorted to carefully cutting slices to the inner seat post tube with a reciprocating saw and found this to be a good method also.
I first found your channel trying to do a Frozen Seat post! I hacked my old timberline post to peices and gave up. This would have saved it!!!! That is a tool that was def worth sacrificing a drill bit for.
That was the best way I have seen to remove a stuck seat post. I have had a stuck seat post in the past and it was frustrating to remove with just brute force.
At first I thought it was ill advised to drill the socket, but then realized you made a special tool that can be used again on a fairly common problem, so good idea! My thought was to drill the seat post, stick a bolt through, and try to engage the bolt with opposing corners of the socket. The bolt would have to be sized precisely to engage the socket and not slip. Your tool has a better grip.
Nice, years ago I unstuck a seatpost and a stem in an old Masi I bought using the slow and patient method (took a week)you showed us. Still have the bike and it rides great have a great holiday.
I like this method the most of all your tries. Great idea RJ! I have my old 80's Sekai 2600 Eurosport with a stuck seat post. Tried the pipe wrench and made a mess of it. There's enough post left to try this method out. Thanks for another great video!
Even though you are not quite on his level yet, your contribution to the DIY bike mechanic is without a doubt in the same league as Sheldon Brown's. Impressive.
@@bobdixon3048 Bro i'm a mechanical engineer. And have done drilling countless no. of times. The material of the socket is made of high carbon steel which is very hard (resistance to wear) so high speed will result in poor chip removal because the drill bit will do superficial machining lot of the time (it will slip on the surface only). The drilling setup RJ is using has different set of pulleys attached to the motor. Going to larger dia pulley will result in high rpm and low torque and smaller dia will result in low rpms and high torque which is ideal while drilling. Hope you are clear. If not then you can try drilling metal workpiece by using both slow and fast speed sometime. You'll notice the reduction in drilling time.🙂
@@WorshipMyBikeOrDie Not everyone is a mechanical engineer here so it explained it in such a way that it could be easily comprehended by most of us. (1) I never denied that. (2)I know the difference and Rj's set up has a pulley belt drive for power transmission as i've seen in his previous videos. (3) By speed, I'm referring to the spindle speed and all other velocities are proportional to this speed only. And yes drill bit does get heated irrespective of the chip removal. But if the chip is being removed then a major chunk of heat being produced is carried away by chip only. Slipping (which is likely to occur at higher speeds) will prevent chip removal. Heat will accumulate at the machining spot. Temperature will rise and your drill bit will be burnt.
Thanks for the excellent video. Followed your technique and managed to get my aluminium dropper post out of my carbon frame, Trance Advance 2014. Had to saw the post which causes quite a mess and left some internals but there was enough space for the bolt to get through. Very happy now, as even my local bike shop failed!
Yes I've sent a link to this video as it's such an effective technique and been explaining to folk in the bike scene here in Cape Town about your video.
Was going to say the same thing (got a Cinelli stuck in a steel fork in the garage right now), but while that amount of torque may work on a well braced seat tube, I'm afraid of what it'd do to a fork crown.
If it's an old quilt stem , Take the fork out of the frame if it's threaded and use something long to tap it from between the fork crown bottom hole , to tap the frozen wedge out
You are a genius sir!! Both your impact solution, plus the 2nd tool you made are ones I am going to try moving forward with. I love your videos and you are pretty much the go to guy for me when I am trying to solve problems on the bikes I am repairing.
Geez...I ride a custom built road bike on a Surly Disc Trucker steel frame. I'm going to be careful and not let my seat post get stuck. This was a good video.
My aluminum seat post was badly stuck in a steel frame. I applied penetrating oil several times before attempting to remove the post. I managed to rotate it completely after oiling but it was still extremely tight and would not budge vertically. I tried to remove it with a 10lb slide hammer with absolutely no effect. Finally, I decided to try the slit cutting approach. I first cut open the seat post with around an inch protruding from the opening of the seat tube. Then, I cut two slits in opposite directions of the post with the intention of splitting it in two pieces. This method worked, and the post eventually came out of the seat tube with the motion of the blade (the two sides of the post were almost separated). No other tools were necessary. The post was around 8 inches deep below the top of the seat tube, so I had to use a 12 inch blade (6 tpi). Keep in mind that this method can be very laborious. Took me around 6 hours to accomplish the mission.
Well done. I enjoyed the drill. I just got one out of a Super Course. No access to those drills but someday! My method was to spray religiously with WD40 for about 2 weeks. Then tried twisting today with a pipe wrench - and out she came!
I would think with the impact vibrations it would also help penetrating oil to seep even farther between the frame and post helping to lessen the bond before coming loose, great video.
Very clever, love it. I used 2 bottles of caustic soda crystals last time I got one of those out! Took me ages. Will use this method if I need to get one out next time.
You should continuously be adding drops of oil to the bit as you are drilling to keep it from getting so heated. The bit will last longer and cut faster.
Thanks your videos are great. Me and my friend by and sell used bikes. We fix’s them and sell them. Even give some away. But for sure the seat post can totally wreck a good bike. We will be trying your impact trick soon. Awesome video!!
He oughta try that with a 1 inch drive impact like they use for heavy truck lug nuts. 200psi and you have to use two hands to hold it! Get a reducer to 1/2 inch so he doesn't have to make a new tool. Or, you could clamp that seatpost in a bench vice and turn the frame.
@@RJTheBikeGuy for the budget minded user a corded electric like yours is the most bang for you buck, need to spend a decent amount on pneumatic not to mention having a proper compressor to match...a real pneumatic has loads more power than electric but not for less than $100 it doesn't
Good video my brother recommended same thing using impact wrench, but it's too invasive I finally found my own quick, simple , non invasive method, I was skeptical until I tried it , miraculously this vintage tool worked like a charm, I should make a you tube video on it lol ,
I made this exact tool and tried it. Air powered hammer wrench with 625 lb-ft of torque had no affect. I resorted cutting it out with a 12" wood blade. The careful cutting took about an hour and an air hammer to push out the post. I'll use this tool again first, but cutting wasn't that bad of a job.
@@RJTheBikeGuy It was not budging, only hammered the drilled holes in the post.. My impact tool has been pretty successful with stubborn joints in the past. Your suggestion for a wood tooth blade was right on. Your videos are GREAT!
Curious if this is now your ultimate solution for the stuck seat post problem. The benefit of this method above others is that the impact wrench breaks down the corrosion fingers with each tap and you can leave it ON for hours to days (if you can stand the noise.) Theoretically, it will break free just due to fatigue of the electrolized surfaces. The impact action, vice maximum torque, is breaking down the bond at a molecular level, minimizing risk of breaking the frame.
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RJ The Bike Guy smart idea🤘
@ken thomas ua-cam.com/play/PLxO5aF0sensiVdiClC_JH6OboqFl5Dvay.html
@@marcocarrillo4645 Generally freewheels are just replaced. They can be taken apart and worked on, but that is not the norm. Parts from another freewheel of the same brand/model would work. But again, you can just buy a new one.
What's your go to for stuck pedals? Great video BTW.
@@cr4igsmith ua-cam.com/video/Tia5y9kfVk0/v-deo.html
I did this following his video. I had tried everything else but was starting to realize I might total the bike. So my grandfather and I made the tool and he was amazed that it worked. Thanks RJ!
Park will be selling this for $125 in a couple of weeks.
LFMAO
Brilliant solution! I've seen pictures of the results of using a giant lever arm to try and rotate the seat post - it often ends in a twisted frame. This method uses force, but with repeated impact - much safer. A higher powered impact wrench may have been faster, but it also may have had results akin to a long lever arm. I'd be happy using just enough force to get the job done. Thanks for sharing!
That was awesome. Anyone who’s wrestled with a frozen seat post...holy cow, worth the effort of making that tool.
Scott Hughes 100% agree! Probably one of the most satisfying videos I’ve ever watched:)
Thank you for your stuck seatpost videos, and particularly this one! This is what finally did the trick for me after trying the following, after just trying to twist it out by the seat (I have a Pivot Cycles carbon frame and aluminum dropper post):
1. Pipe strap wrench, normal temperature
2. Pipe wrench, normal temperature, post insert now destroyed from teeth on wrench.
3. Pipe strap wrench, but with dry ice filling up the seat post just after heating the seat tube with a heat gun
4. Pipe wrench with same as #3
5. Drill 3/8" hole through top of post insert and try 5 lb slide hammer (couldn't track down a 10 lb hammer) (like your other video) with heat, then dry ice
6. Invert bike, put ziploc bag tight around top of seat tube & post & fill seat tube with coca cola (per Pivot Cycles and other on-line suggestion) and let sit for two days to get at the galvanic corrosion. Then, make impact wrench socket tool per your video (more on this below) and rent an impact wrench and attempt. The impact wrench is what finally did the trick; before this, nothing even budged the seatpost. I didn't even try cooling the aluminum post down first. It took the second (of four) lowest torque setting (about 75-150 ft. lbs; the lowest setting did nothing). The impact wrench got it turning. Then I had a friend run the impact wrench while I tried to lift up on the socket with a crescent wrench, but then the top of the seat post insert sheared off. Luckily there was enough post sticking out, so I drilled another 3/8" hole through the top of the post, went back to the hardware store (for about the 8th time on this project) and got a 3/8" x about 9" lag bolt, and more dry ice. I filled the post up with dry ice, stuck the lag bolt through, and immediately started twisting and pulling up and was finally able to get it out by hand (after the impact wrench got it unseized).
For me, one of the biggest pain in the asses of this overall pain in the ass was drilling the 3/8" hole all the way through the hardened steel socket. I used the carbon-tipped masonry bits, but I had to use three bits of three different sizes for EACH hole (plus a carbide-tipped glass bit), so 7 new bits total, and I destroyed all 7 bits. I did not have a drill press, only a hand drill, so perhaps that was part of the issue. I did spend a lot of time researching how to drill through hardened steel. In my case, the only thing that worked was starting with a small hole, then a bigger hole, then the 3/8" hole.
I wish I had your attitude, because unlike you, I absolutely HATED trying to get this seatpost out and hope to never have to go through that again. This was done over about a 3-week period (I got discouraged after every attempt and had to give it a little break). I actually just bought a new dropper post that I can quickly and easily remove without having to undo the cable at the remote, which I will do every month or two (Pivot Cycles recommends no carbon paste, anti-seize, or grease between an aluminum seatpost and their carbon frame).
Thanks again for making your awesome videos, as I used several of them for this project. Cheers to you RJ!
guess could heat the hardened socket with a torch at drilling ponts makes it softer when cooled, or just surround it with hot coals maybe, might even drill it while still red hot is it even softer then, guess bits need cooling and oiling so , lots of oil or maybe water oil emulsion. or just water if cooling is more imporant then oiling, maybe just used motor oil cheap.
Ingenious solution to a very common problem when buying second hand Bikes. I recently spent about 3 hours (over 3 different days) getting a seat post out of a 1998 Saracen Protrax which had been stored outdoors. I ruined a wooden mallet and the original saddle (no biggie as it was crap anyway). I sprayed untold amounts of WD40 down there and on day 3 I finally got it to move by jamming an old set of steel handlebars between the saddle rails, which gave me the leverage I needed to get the seat post to turn. Not as ingenious as your method, but I was that close to junking the whole frame, it gives a real sense of satisfaction when you beat something like that and "save" the bike.
You are a genius!!! We just tried it in our shop in Gainesville, Fl and it worked great. Now we can actually save good frames that before would go into the trash. Thank you for sharing your genius with the world!
Very cool!
I love it when "Crazy RJ" takes over the show!
When I do something like this I yell to the neighbor ... "Hey Dennis I'm about to do something stupid. To which he replies ... "Hold on, let me grab the camera!"
That was amazing, brilliant, RJ!
I also remove the bottom bracket, turn the frame upside down, and spray penetrant oil UP from the bottom, and let it soak-in.
Rust remove, or perhaps acid (citric, vinegar?) has also been recommended elsewhere.
I love this! This is the best method for removing a stuck seatpost I've ever seen! I have won a couple and lost a couple to stuck seatposts, always like the challenge, and sometimes the price can't be beat on bikes with stuck posts. Thanks for being you RJ, this is great, and I think I'll be doing this as well.
VERY impressive! Another excellent video on not ONLY removing a very difficult seatpole but also making a tool that can be used again and again. Imagine how many bikes have been sent to the landfill because of a stuck seatpole.( I've given up on 2 myself)
RJ you deserve every comment on here- worked for me too. Sincerely, thank you!
I almost cried when you drilled that socket. You totally went Tim Allen though, so good finish!
Why not drop in a large bolt that fits the inner diameter of the seatpost, drill and pin it, and then use an unmodified impact socket that fits the bolt? You could also add a washer that fits the bolt to get more of a flange to pull up on.
So far this is the best solution minus the fully built seat post remover tool. I will start soaking my seat post and try this in about a week or so. I will keep an eye out in thrift stores for an impact socket big enough for the job. Thanks!
Hats off to you. I did not think an impact wrench could do the job of breaking lose the stuck seat post. I have a vintage Nishiki road bike with a stuck seat post. For years I've tried different methods but has never been able to pull the post out.
I'm impressed. I have a seatpost stuck on my daughters bike, that my wife wants me to get rid of, now off to the hardware store. KB
Your knowledge of bikes and tools goes on for days. Unmatched on UA-cam. Thank you for sharing RJ.
Thanks for the tip man you're a hero, just saved a few frames from the metal bin
Greetings from Amsterdam✌
Hello RJ the Bike Guy. I wanted to say your method went great for me. Your video was very helpful worked like a charm. Thanks and Salutations! Happy Holidays
Very impressive. However, I do not what to admire more - the actual technique of removing the seat post or all the tools and equipment that you have. I appreciate the fact that you have your own garage packed with tools, but most people do not have this luxury, so we have to live with what we have. From my perspective the easiest thing to do it - put some WD 40 in the post a let it stand for few hours, take the frame , put it in a bath, pour 3-4 litres of boiling water on the spot, with a pipe wrench (longer the better) try moving the post back and forth until it comes out. Tried it few times, worked fine form me. However, thank you for the video, your method is very sexy , you are turning the stuck post removal process into art...
I went to see your earlier videos for my seized frame, went all the way to sodium hydroxide, ended up machining it out. This is definitely a clever approach. Enjoyed the video.
I've wrangled with far more stuck posts than I care to admit. After seeing this brilliant method, I'd like to take that impact wrench to the twenty jerks who disliked this video and think they have a "better way." This is about as good as it gets when everything else fails. Thanks, RJ.
Lol
@@RJTheBikeGuy Gotta go through life with humor...without it, you'll sink like a stone. (P.S.: Thanks for being yourself. Too many stuck-up how-tos on UA-cam).
@@cudak888 Read through the comments on any of my stuck seatpost videos and you will find people who post stuff like, just spray it with WD-40 for a week, tap it with a hammer, and it will come right out...works every time. Just heat up the frame, and tap it with a hammer...works every time. Pretty much nothing works everytime with a seized seat post short of cutting it out.... Even using a big pipe wrench. Had one post where it just started crushing and twisting it. Ack!
@@RJTheBikeGuy Never underestimate the ignorance of someone who's had one very LUCKY experience with a stuck seatpost, and thinks it applies to every other stuck seatpost in existence. Always depends on the amount of aluminum oxide buildup, and only seasoned used bike mechanics know the drill (pun not intended).
Worst stuck post I ever experienced was on my '61 Schwinn Paramount - it had a factory rolled aluminum post, installed in there since the beginning of time with no grease. No place to grab, and soft as butter. It's the only time I really did take time and care to hacksaw a post. It never really wanted to budge upwards, but the frame happened to have two huge dents in the seattube... so I used another post above it to carefully ram it down the tube, effectively pushing the dents back out. It sounds like a complete hack job (again, pun not intended), but it worked, with no damage to the 531. Post is still in there :)
@@cudak888 I have some other ideas for removal when I get some more bikes with seized posts. One for removing a post that is cut off or wedged down like that. I think it will work.
That’s a great method. I have just recently resorted to carefully cutting slices to the inner seat post tube with a reciprocating saw and found this to be a good method also.
I first found your channel trying to do a Frozen Seat post! I hacked my old timberline post to peices and gave up. This would have saved it!!!! That is a tool that was def worth sacrificing a drill bit for.
That was the best way I have seen to remove a stuck seat post. I have had a stuck seat post in the past and it was frustrating to remove with just brute force.
Brilliant! I love your battles with seat posts. Never seen a man so happy! 👍
At first I thought it was ill advised to drill the socket, but then realized you made a special tool that can be used again on a fairly common problem, so good idea! My thought was to drill the seat post, stick a bolt through, and try to engage the bolt with opposing corners of the socket. The bolt would have to be sized precisely to engage the socket and not slip. Your tool has a better grip.
I love how you keep finding stuck seat post and handle
I actively seek them out.
@@RJTheBikeGuy That's odd because they seem to keep seeking me out. :-)
@@GreenJimll I wish I could find a few more.
That Specialized Hardrock has a new lease on life 👍
Always give him thumbs up guys, he’s been helping us with tips, tricks and no bullshits vids.
Nice, years ago I unstuck a seatpost and a stem in an old Masi I bought using the slow and patient method (took a week)you showed us. Still have the bike and it rides great have a great holiday.
I'm going to try and grind the top of the seat post into a hexagon shape like a bolt then use an impact gun to turn it. Thanks for the inspiration
I've been working on a siezed seatpost for days now. How UA-cam knew about this and stuck this in my recommended list I have no idea, but thank you!
I don't know what make me more happy : the fact it's has worked or the fact that Specialized will be on the road again? Either way, great job!
I personally feel like this was the best option I’ve seen so far. Great idea.
hands down the best bike tutorials on youtube. ill be watching random ones just to learn. super easy to understnd with how u talk it all out
I like it! Also didn''t know you can drill through hardened steel with masonry bits. Thanks!
Love your tenacity, and ways of taking on a problem from different angles.
I like this method the most of all your tries. Great idea RJ! I have my old 80's Sekai 2600 Eurosport with a stuck seat post. Tried the pipe wrench and made a mess of it. There's enough post left to try this method out. Thanks for another great video!
Even though you are not quite on his level yet, your contribution to the DIY bike mechanic is without a doubt in the same league as Sheldon Brown's. Impressive.
I am a fan of Sheldon. RIP.
Brilliant !!! Worked for me after wasting time trying everything else - thankyou.
Sir, always use low speed for drilling holes. Material removal rate is higher as drill doesn't get much heated.
Karan Kundal ur completely wrong
You get better chip removal for metals at low spindle speeds. There are charts for that somewhere.
@@bobdixon3048 Bro i'm a mechanical engineer. And have done drilling countless no. of times. The material of the socket is made of high carbon steel which is very hard (resistance to wear) so high speed will result in poor chip removal because the drill bit will do superficial machining lot of the time (it will slip on the surface only). The drilling setup RJ is using has different set of pulleys attached to the motor. Going to larger dia pulley will result in high rpm and low torque and smaller dia will result in low rpms and high torque which is ideal while drilling. Hope you are clear. If not then you can try drilling metal workpiece by using both slow and fast speed sometime. You'll notice the reduction in drilling time.🙂
The harder the material the lower the surface speed simple
@@WorshipMyBikeOrDie Not everyone is a mechanical engineer here so it explained it in such a way that it could be easily comprehended by most of us.
(1) I never denied that.
(2)I know the difference and Rj's set up has a pulley belt drive for power transmission as i've seen in his previous videos.
(3) By speed, I'm referring to the spindle speed and all other velocities are proportional to this speed only.
And yes drill bit does get heated irrespective of the chip removal. But if the chip is being removed then a major chunk of heat being produced is carried away by chip only. Slipping (which is likely to occur at higher speeds) will prevent chip removal. Heat will accumulate at the machining spot. Temperature will rise and your drill bit will be burnt.
Thanks for the excellent video. Followed your technique and managed to get my aluminium dropper post out of my carbon frame, Trance Advance 2014. Had to saw the post which causes quite a mess and left some internals but there was enough space for the bolt to get through.
Very happy now, as even my local bike shop failed!
Maybe you should show your LBS this video. :D
Yes I've sent a link to this video as it's such an effective technique and been explaining to folk in the bike scene here in Cape Town about your video.
awesome solution RJ!!! i just love your creativity. thank you so much for sharing!!
RJ. What a creative and wonderful way to remove a frozen seat post. Keep them coming.
Good stuff RJ! I enjoy watching your creative methods to get those stuck parts out.
Best method for stuck seat posts. Now to find something as good for stems.
Looks like it'd work for stems. You'd obviously destroy it in the process, though.
Was going to say the same thing (got a Cinelli stuck in a steel fork in the garage right now), but while that amount of torque may work on a well braced seat tube, I'm afraid of what it'd do to a fork crown.
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@@johnpossum556 You would but the best thing about this method is the way it minimizes the risk of collateral damage to the frame.
If it's an old quilt stem , Take the fork out of the frame if it's threaded and use something long to tap it from between the fork crown bottom hole , to tap the frozen wedge out
You are a genius sir!! Both your impact solution, plus the 2nd tool you made are ones I am going to try moving forward with. I love your videos and you are pretty much the go to guy for me when I am trying to solve problems on the bikes I am repairing.
This video is so good that I watch it over and over again
RJ .. can you post some more of these please? I enjoy watching them alot and it gives me as much pleasure as when I remove one myself!
Geez...I ride a custom built road bike on a Surly Disc Trucker steel frame. I'm going to be careful and not let my seat post get stuck. This was a good video.
I am going to give a try - looks reasonable enough. Since it worked for you, it should work for me. Nice Job.
My aluminum seat post was badly stuck in a steel frame. I applied penetrating oil several times before attempting to remove the post. I managed to rotate it completely after oiling but it was still extremely tight and would not budge vertically. I tried to remove it with a 10lb slide hammer with absolutely no effect. Finally, I decided to try the slit cutting approach. I first cut open the seat post with around an inch protruding from the opening of the seat tube. Then, I cut two slits in opposite directions of the post with the intention of splitting it in two pieces. This method worked, and the post eventually came out of the seat tube with the motion of the blade (the two sides of the post were almost separated). No other tools were necessary. The post was around 8 inches deep below the top of the seat tube, so I had to use a 12 inch blade (6 tpi). Keep in mind that this method can be very laborious. Took me around 6 hours to accomplish the mission.
If you got it to turn, then it wasn't badly stuck. With twisting and pulling it probably would have come out.
I used a 4 feet long bar to twist the saddle and the post. It was really difficult to pull out.
Always a pleasure being here and seeing rj make it work !!!
I can FEEL the satisfaction!!! Fantastic idea. Just awesome. 10 thumbs up!!!
I don't deal much with stuck seatposts like these but I love your ideas of taking them out
creative solution dude! This is why I sub RJ, you're pretty damn inventive and always looking to provide solid solutions to us tinkerers.
That is an interesting and very successful idea. I've tried doing it with a vice and rotating the whole bike and I gave up... well done!
I made a socket like yours and although it took more time and a pretty powerful impact wrench it came out! Thanks RJ!
Very drastic big job just to remove seat post but you did it well done ,i haven’t got your tools so have to try something else cheers
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i would for sure rent the impact wrench and go at a bunch of 'em. great method
Well done. I enjoyed the drill. I just got one out of a Super Course. No access to those drills but someday! My method was to spray religiously with WD40 for about 2 weeks. Then tried twisting today with a pipe wrench - and out she came!
It's an impact wrench, not a drill. Glad you got it out.
You must have a nice collection of dead seat posts. Another victory! Great idea.
Oh No...another tool I've got to make. BRILLIANT
That's some next level seatpost removal.
I would think with the impact vibrations it would also help penetrating oil to seep even farther between the frame and post helping to lessen the bond before coming loose, great video.
Very clever, love it. I used 2 bottles of caustic soda crystals last time I got one of those out! Took me ages. Will use this method if I need to get one out next time.
These seat post videos are so satisfying!
Brilliant! Wish I saw this vid befor jacking up the post that is currently stuck in my frame, cut too short to try this methos now.
Wow that is truly revolutionary. Looking forward to using this process.
Another vote here for a video on a similar method for seized stem removal.
That was so easy, practical and doable by everyone!
Another clever fix RJ... . !! Sweet !!
Good tip regarding the masonary bit 👍👍
Awesome! I wish I'd known about this 5 years ago before I trashed my Eddy Merckx that had a stuck seat-post. :(
:'(
No way this is amazing thank you so much now I know how to unstuck my seat your an amazing guy😎
Great job RJ!
Thats very satisfying. Got my aluminum seatpost out of a steel frame using oxy-acetylene torch. Will give this a try!
Yeah! Another home-made tool. Thanks, RJ!
What if you had a slide hammer attached to the socket? I think you can get results.
Nicely done! I had a similar situation and my LBS had one guy hold a rod that was thru the seatpost while two others slowly turned my bike.
Superb! I wish that I still had my machine shop!
You should continuously be adding drops of oil to the bit as you are drilling to keep it from getting so heated. The bit will last longer and cut faster.
Not sure why, but that made my day. Nice job.
That's brilliant, I was wouldn't believe it. Well done x
wow all these years and I didn't know you could use a masonry bit for hardened steel
Thanks your videos are great. Me and my friend by and sell used bikes. We fix’s them and sell them. Even give some away. But for sure the seat post can totally wreck a good bike. We will be trying your impact trick soon. Awesome video!!
I like the excited rise in voice when you got it out ... Diggin the mid-evil approach... but hey it worked
I am pretty sure they didn't have impact wrenches in medieval times. :D
@@RJTheBikeGuy If they did, the Spanish Inquisition would have had an even worse reputation!!
@@davidcummings5826 Nobody expects the Spanish Inquisition!
You have given me a reason to get an impact driver. Love your hacks
Impact wrench. Impact drivers as great too, but not enough power for this.
@@RJTheBikeGuy that's two more tools I need
As usual a great idea from Archie!
RJ
Clever approach, that impact needs more chooch.
It's fairly skookum, but it lacks some shmoo.
you dont want to much the aluminum is already decomposing so a stronger impact may just twist it
Gotta love AvE
He oughta try that with a 1 inch drive impact like they use for heavy truck lug nuts. 200psi and you have to use two hands to hold it! Get a reducer to 1/2 inch so he doesn't have to make a new tool. Or, you could clamp that seatpost in a bench vice and turn the frame.
@@chrisdaigle5410 Clamping it in a bench will eventually break the seatpost and ill require a lotol leverage as well
best stuck seat post resource going...love these vids 👍
Awesome video RJ! Definitely going to use this next time I find a stuck seat post 👍👍👍👍👍
hmm my old cannondale frame has a frozen seatpost and i have an impact wrench. will be giving this a try. thanks for the great tip.
Great work. Even a cheap pneumatic impact wrench can easily provide two to three times the breaking torque so would work really well.
I doubt it. I had a couple of them, and they were pretty weak compared to my Kawasaki.
@@RJTheBikeGuy for the budget minded user a corded electric like yours is the most bang for you buck, need to spend a decent amount on pneumatic not to mention having a proper compressor to match...a real pneumatic has loads more power than electric but not for less than $100 it doesn't
super creative solution! kudos to you buddy!
Good video my brother recommended same thing using impact wrench, but it's too invasive I finally found my own quick, simple , non invasive method, I was skeptical until I tried it , miraculously this vintage tool worked like a charm, I should make a you tube video on it lol ,
what way...
@@lofturhjalmarsson9896 pipe vise, vintage, remember a seat tube is basically a seat pipe
haha every two years the method get more sophisticated and more mechanised!
LOL!
I made this exact tool and tried it. Air powered hammer wrench with 625 lb-ft of torque had no affect. I resorted cutting it out with a 12" wood blade. The careful cutting took about an hour and an air hammer to push out the post. I'll use this tool again first, but cutting wasn't that bad of a job.
Really? I am surprised it didn't work with the impact wrench. Glad you got it out.
@@RJTheBikeGuy It was not budging, only hammered the drilled holes in the post.. My impact tool has been pretty successful with stubborn joints in the past. Your suggestion for a wood tooth blade was right on. Your videos are GREAT!
RJ the MVP, hands down
Great work RJ!
Curious if this is now your ultimate solution for the stuck seat post problem. The benefit of this method above others is that the impact wrench breaks down the corrosion fingers with each tap and you can leave it ON for hours to days (if you can stand the noise.) Theoretically, it will break free just due to fatigue of the electrolized surfaces. The impact action, vice maximum torque, is breaking down the bond at a molecular level, minimizing risk of breaking the frame.