New Chain & Sprockets Quick Without Chain Tool - KTM 790 / 890 Adv R
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2022
- Motorcycle Chain & Sprockets with garage tools. Chain tension on KTM 790 Adv R.
This Chain and Sprockets should have been changed before the trip to Norway, but they made it and did their best last Km's in life 😜.
#KTM790 #KTM890
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Hahaha, this is genius, never thought about using a small vice to get the job done. Always nice to learn small hacks like this. Well done Tjommi, and congrats on a "new bike" always nice to feel how much better the bike gets after new set of chain and sprocket. 🔥
Hehe, You are right Tjommi. It felt like a new bike when I rode off to meet You up at lake Vättern 😂🙌. I thought that I had a riveting tool at home, but didn't. Then You go with whats in the garage 💪
Nice job Mattias 👏...I bet it feels like a new bike!! Cheers, Steve
Definitely ☝️😁 The bike was like the feeling you get of smelling new learher in a new car on the dealer floor 🤣😜
Exemplary execution 👍🕺🏻
Thanks Perry! 🍺🍺 tasted better after this and bike wheelie immediately ☕️🤌🏻😂
Nice job , fine business Mattias 😊👍✌
Thanks Bruno, sometimes we have to adapt to the reality 🤠 👌
Hey Mattias
First, I really love your TET videos :o) - they are not only about the drives and the tracks, but also about your thoughts, gear etc.
I've a KTM 790 ADV R as I use mainly on gravel roads in your country. I changed the front sprocket to 15 teeth, and installed a BoosterPlug. Together this totally iron-out the well-known “stall at low rev.”- issue, and the new gearing fits gravel roads as well as single tracks perfect (on difficulty tracks you are in much better control with the bike in 1. to 3. gear - there is no need for using the cluch at all,. On highways, 6. gear is like what 5. gear was before - witch fits the use of Motoz Rallz better).
I’m a big fan of your channel - so keep up the good work mate
Thanks for this input on the gearing Morten! I can imagine that it feels more like the 890 then except from the taller gearing. Huge difference on how it behaves from idle and low rev. Makes me really happy that You like the channel, a bit weird to mix different topics or adventure styles but I like it that way 👀😂🙌. Happy Trails and see You out there 🍺
thx for the video; using OEM set you dont need to cut the old one and clip the new one as it is comes already clipped, so you just have to remove the foot peg (connected wit the swingarm) enough so that you can remove the old chain and put in place rhe new one. thx
Really smart trick with the wrench!
I would recommend the 15 tooth in the front, gives the bike more torque down low.
I switched to a 16 since my 15 was out of shape until i could get a new 15 tooth and the difference was noticeable.
Nice to hear, I'm curious about how the 15 will make difference. Never felt that I need to lower the gear, but for sure in more gnarly situations like forestry machine tracks I would have liked it. How about the 2nd, 3rd and 4th gear use? For topp speed and highway I could not care less whichever since the bike is faster than I ride with it and I seldom use the 6th gear. That could indicate that it is rational to get a 15 front sprocket. I will get a 15, the sooner the better.
hi.
it's nice to see how others repair their bikes, you always learn something new 😉
Hehe, I did as well 😂🙌. I had to adapt, improvise and overcome 🤠💪🔥
@@Braapncamp that's how I work to 🤣🍻
Nice bike you have! I think it's important to keep your things in good shape, like you do.
Hehe thanks, I keep it rideable at least and do oil changes often. 👍
@@Braapncamp My bike never looked so clean either! :)
👀😂🙌
Wow, Mattias, what an interesting way to change the chain without a specialist riveting tool. Ingenious!
Günter from Nürnberg/Germany
Haha, a man got to do what a man got to do... I thought I had a tool in the garage, that was not the case (with the right dimensions), had to adapt and improvise 😂
@@Braapncamp Good improvisation, Mattias.
I have two sets of tires for road/offroad and switched the sprockets for 15-45 offroad and 15-42 road. That gives me similar to stock on road and slightly lower on offroad which helps in first gear on hard/slow terrain. When switching the wheel (with different sprocket) I only need to rotate the tensioning thingy 180° without changing the tension much so it is really easy and quick to do. (The tensioner has a short and a long end.) I can really reccomend to switch the sprocket from 16 to 15!
Thanks R.A thats cool input. A friend swears about his lower gearing on front and rear. What tire/rim set ups do You have for offroad/road?
@@Braapncamp I have tried a couple. For road I like best Conti Trial Attack 3. Pirelli Scorpion was great too. Off-road Michelin Anakee Wild worked well but the rear didn't last very long. Right now I am using Anakee Wild front and Scorpion Rally STR rear and that worked surprisingly well! For propper off-road however I'll go for something even more knobby on the front tire in the future since it still slips a lot in mud. Just did 6500km Germany to Greece through the balkans on Scorpion Rally STR and the were awesome. Could lean till my bags scraped the ground on tarmac (oops) and since it stayed dry during the entire trip I was happy with them off-road as well. The original Metzeler Karoo 3 was the worst tire ever. A true death trap as soon as it got wet. The front tire slid out 3 times for no good reason and I was very lucky to be able to catch it. I threw them away after 2000km... I got a great deal on a second pair of original rims, so I can run tubeless which I prefer since it's easy to fix on the road. Already had a nail in the back tire twice and was able to fix it without any help within 30min to finish the trip.
@@progammler Thanks! always great to get fellow riders experiences 👌 I agree on your choises and thoughts and I have similar experiences.
Nice trick if you don't have the correct chain tool ( I would recommend the original DID tool, very small and easy to bring on a trip)
I know that you have some mechanical skills. But other viewers may not succed with this procedure.
I know that many guys have been around the world and back with clip links and rivet with a hammer and a seashell or a coconut.
But I have also been on trips with low maintenance guys who suddenly dropped the chain in the woods...
Thank you for a good video :)
Thanks for this comment pollepost with a clear view on this. You bet I was careful with the measures to be sure that it worked out 😅. A chain tool and an extra master link is great to have. We all have had some troubles out there but some seems to have it more often 🤠
Final chain adjustment should be done with rider weight and luggage on the bike. Many bikes chain slack will tighten as the suspension goes down. All else looked good 👍
I definitely agree! The adjustment done must work thru all swingarm travel.
Thanks Mattias..
I understand it varies on the type riding etc..
How many kilometers have you had on your ktm...until you performed this upgrade.
The chain and sprockets was done at 15000Km's, but I squeezed out 3000Km's more at the trip at Norwegian TET. Should have got a new set before the trip but I was rather gentle with both brakes and throttle. One could say that the best Km's out of the set was the last 3000Km's 👀😂😜
@@Braapncamp
Got it...
Thanks for the response.
Hade hört att de flesta går ner till 15 drev fram. Så köpte ett. Satt på tre dagar sen åkte 16 på igen. Jag upplevde jag tappade puckel från början. Den betedde sig linjärt. Busfaktorn försvann. Motorn är så stark och har sånt vrid att den är roligare med 16. Sticker iväg hårdare med 16.
Det gillar jag att höra, låter som jag kan fortsätta att skippa neddrevning 👍🙌
Som i gamle dager før ebay og billig riveting verktøy. Når en var student og blakk å brukte siste rest av penger på nytt kjede😄. Clipon lås fungerer også greit. Godt jobba kompis.
Jag trodde faktiskt att det var clip on i denna kedjesatsen. Det hade varit gott, men löste sig ändå 😂
@@Braapncamp kjøpte clipon til triumphen sist jeg byttet kjede, men det viste seg at den var feil produsert å passet ikke i hullene på kjedet, så jeg måtte klinke kjedet alikevel. Gikk greit siden jeg har verktøy. 🇳🇴☕
Blir att skaffa ett verktyg, behövs ju ändå om man vill ha det i verktygskitet.
@@Braapncamp kan ALDRI få nok verktøy i mancaven(garasjen😄).
Så är det ☝️😁🙌
True 🇸🇪 Viking style to change the chain. How many kilometers did you made with the set before change? I hope you'll have some nice autumn days to ride with the new setup 💙💛🏁🤛🏼
😂😂 Too many Km's on that set, it was done at 15000Km's and I did 3000Km's more... 💪🙈😇. The best Km's on this chain was the last though 😂🙌 I have been riding some nice rides with the new set. Great feeling, like buying a new bike. Coming weekend I will go to Poland with some great riding buddys 🙌🍺🍺✊🏻✊🏻
It’s always looks like an easy job when someone else is doing it 😂
Thats true, wasn't happy when I couldn't find a chain tool in this size in the garage. Thought I had it. But I didn't want to wait until I got it. Worked out well though. The grinder was the way to go though, would never use another tool if not necessary 😂🙌 Cheers Jonas 🍺
What size was the nut on the front sprocket? I would really appreciate any info! :)
Hi Dennis, sorry to say i do not remember. But i had the socket in my tool kit so nothing special. One thing is that the nut was finger loose when i should loosen the nut. It's was only locked in place by the deformed washer... so this is a nut that one should retorque at service intervals.
Fun and games if you are on a ride and you need to put in a joining link. It’s best to carry a small chain tool which presses the side plate on. The 790 is too powerful for a clip link so you need a decent tool to squash the end of the pin. The best standard chain adjustment fitting of any bike is on the DR650- a notched cam plate which you instantly know is correct on both sides. I haven’t seen anything like it on any other bike.
I thought i had a chain/riveting tool at home but that was not the case and had to solve it 🙌. I have seen that type of chain tensioning design before, I wonder if my DR800 had it or one of my mopeds. With the KTM design I just count the turns and the measure each side.
I installed new chain and sprockets on my 790R before a recent ‘lap’ around Oz… 17556Kms in total, running a 520 clip type master link!
Not one single chain problem at all and I don’t baby the throttle either :)
@@alphonsvanmaanen Thats excellent news, they usually recommend a rivet link once you get in the 70Hp+ range but new chains are very good and if the clip link goes on tightly I assume there are no issues.
@@MrEtnorb ‘They’… I’ve heard that too, but my first hand experience in over 50 yrs riding tells me different :) Each to their own.
A poorly maintained / tensioned chain is of more concern than a clip type master link.
@@alphonsvanmaanen Agreed. I’ve been reading of anti-ktm stuff forever and I bought my 500 after extensive research. Proven now to be one of the most reliable singles of the last 20 years. I’m now doing a 690 project based on similar research. The early motors definitely had a valve rocker problem which poisoned their reputation.
Can you feel any difference with the new front sprocket without damping?
Nope, but bike felt good as new 😂 suddenly I got response 💪
Sorry to be pedantic, but you should really have put the loctite on the nut just before you tightened it !. You will get the wrong torque setting if the loctite has already set solid, which some high strength loctites will have done !. Sorry..
Thats a good point, it was still fluid though while tightening the nut. I was surprised though that the nut was like finger "loose" when disassembly the nut. I have heard this happened before though on the 790.
You skipped taking the front sprocket out and in.
Hehe, You mean turn it wrong? Yupp i skipped that 😁👍
Another great how to video. On behalf of us KTM 790 /890 Adventure / R, we thank you. By the way what was mileage on bike when you replaced sprockets and chain? Kam
Thanks my friend! Around 18000 Km, should have been replaced at around 14000Km's at the latest.
@@Braapncamp Sounds like you're hard on the chain and sprocket with all that off-road mucking and Braaapp-ing 😁 Thanks.
Not sure what to expect of these chains/sprockets life? I just ride and lube them now and then, mostly to get the driveline quiet.
@@Braapncamp I have 19,000 Km. ( 12,000 miles ) on my odometer. The front and rear sprockets still look great. The chain is at 270mm. ( 18 roller length ). I am hoping to get to 18K miles if my chain doesn't stretch.
Thats great! I think my chain could have done it longer, did not measures it. Still have it though so I might get back on that. But the sprockets was done. The front shape allowed chain slip in tougher terrain even if chain tension was good. That did not sound good when it happened... I must say i don't lube much, only to keep rust away and keep it quiet.
thx for the video; using OEM set you dont need to cut the old one and clip the new one as it is comes already clipped, so you just have to remove the foot peg (connected wit the swingarm) enough so that you can remove the old chain and put in place rhe new one. thx
Thats nice to know, thanks 🙏