12'x24' DIY Shed Build (Part 8 - Siding Install)
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- Опубліковано 3 жов 2019
- Welcome to part 8 of our shed build showing the LP SmartSide siding installation. In this video we are installing an engineered wood siding product that is pre-primed and ready to paint. This installation was very similar to sheathing the walls with OSB, except that a little more care needed to be taken with placement and nailing, and the panels had to be cut and fitted around the windows. Took a little time, but I think it came out pretty nice!
This will be a 12'x24' wooden shed with a single slope metal roof and LP SmartSide siding.
I'll try to summarize some of the construction stats/key points here:
FLOOR:
- 12' x 24'
- 4' x 4' treated skid foundation
- 2" x 8" joists @ 16" OC
- 3/4" plywood subfloor
WALLS:
- 2" x 4" construction with double top plates
- (3) 3' x 2' sliding windows
- DIY double door - 59” x 80”
- 1/2" OSB sheathing
- House wrap
- LP SmartSide paneling
ROOF:
- 16' x 27'
- 1.5-in-12 pitch (minimum recommended by metal roof mfr), single slope
- 2" x 8" rafters @ 24" OC
- 1/2" plywood sheathing, with sheathing clips
- Synthetic roofing paper
- 29 gauge galvalume metal roofing panels (3' x 16' each)
Please let me know down below if you have any questions or comments, and stop back to see everything go together. Thanks for watching!
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Had to revisit these videos as I'm back to building a shed now, lol.
Good luck, Warren! Let me know if you have any questions about it.
This brings back memories of helping remodeling my parents house when I was a teen. The shed is looking great!
Thanks. Hopefully good memories!
The shed is coming along nicely! Great job guys! Can't wait to see the next video 👍😀
Thanks, Yvonne. One or two more should wrap it up.
Looking great Brian.
Thanks, Warren!
I'm using this lp siding on my tiny house and was trying to figure ways around the windows. Your videos helped a ton!
Glad to hear it, Mike! Good luck!
You Could do 45 cuts Around the Window
@@luisponce1472 never do 45 cuts around the window. They channel water right towards the window
hey brian looking great hope to see more
Thanks, y'all. Getting close to finishing, but a couple more projects on deck!
Nice job!
Thanks, Mark.
Looks great! Just like a building you get from the pros, except better.
Thanks, Gary! That was the idea. Hope I accomplished it.
Thank you Gary! 😊 Pam
Your intro cracks me up EVERY SINGLE TIME!
Glad to hear it! Us too! 🤣🤣🤣
I know I am kind of randomly asking but do anybody know a good site to watch newly released movies online?
@Cohen Legend I use FlixZone. You can find it by googling :)
@Hudson Jace definitely, have been watching on FlixZone for years myself :D
@Hudson Jace thanks, I went there and it seems to work :) I really appreciate it !!
if you would have left a 2 inch gap with the first t11 sheat it would have butted right up against the window....then you could have used a peaice of molding to cover up the edge on the corner wall.
Good point! Definitely could have done that. Next time I'll know to think about that first. Thanks!
No. Shouldn’t split the diff with first two sheets and added two feet piece to the left side to corner and continued on
Good stuff...you’ll love it!
Thanks. Hope it lasts a long time 🤞!
Hi Brin, windoyare a joy. We had chabed evey window in my house. We changed the size. Not an easy job. We put replacement windows in our other houses. It was easier.💕 NonnaGrace
Definitely not my favorite part!
This is very exciting to watch Brian! It's getting me excited for our next big project.😆👍
Thanks, guys. Glad to get you pumped up!
Your shed build is helping me get my tiny cabin done. Good job!
Glad to hear it!
Great video! Thanks, helped me out a lot. :)
Thanks Corey. Appreciate it.
If you don’t do the trim work Awesome Arizona talked about, you could rip the back-side of the short panel at the groove so you can just lay the piece over the tung and nail it!
Not a bad idea! The LP SmartSide trim is quite expensive, but that's a good workaround. I am going with 1x4s like Dean suggested.
We are getting ready to put up our siding on our shed. I see you put up OSB and house wrap under the siding. Do you have to do that, or can you just put up your siding without the OSB and house wrap? I love following your shed build! Thank you for all the information!
Theoretically, the siding can be placed directly over studs, but I wouldn't recommend it. It's fairly thin and won't provide a lot of shear strength from wind loads, etc. The OSB greatly increases the strength and stability of the walls. It's also relatively cheap. As for the house wrap, you could probably get away without it on a shed. I chose to use it because I think we're going to insulate eventually, and I don't want to worry about moisture in the walls. Also, it didn't add a ton of cost in the grand scheme, so I went for it. Thanks for watching!
You should put screen around the bottom to keep critters from getting under your shed. From the looks of the terrain you could end up with all sorts of crawly thing
(snakes, rodents, and whatever. Me personally would dig a trench at least a foot deep or more and then fasten it to the shed.
You're probably right, Bob. It's on my list.
Good job...
Thank you! Cheers!
You know if you use a level to plumb your work, shit goes a lot smoother.
So true! I definitely try!
Your windows are for vinyl siding! Windows with the nail flange would of worked easier?
Hmm. I don't think they were specific to vinyl siding. They did have a nail flange.
I just did some OSB vertical siding repair (similar to t1-11). Other than sealing and painting the bottom edge, what do you recommend I do to make the edge more rot resistant? I understand that it is water splashback and moisture wicking that caused the rot. I'm thinking of attaching a piece of primed and painted 1x6 along the bottom edge. Is that a good solution?
Sealing and painting the bottom edge is really the best defense, other than maybe building the structure with a large overhang so the water never gets there in the first place. But, a bottom trim piece sounds like a pretty good solution, too!
Alright. Thanks for the input.
Hi from Dean (Formerly DIY by Dino) Nice progress..same type of shed i would build. Are you going to Trim out the windows anyway ?? 1x4s ?? if so small gaps no big deal.
Thanks, Dean. Yeah, gonna trim door windows, and corners, with some 1x4s.
What guage of nail gun did you use and what size of nails? Great detailed video!!
It's a 21 degree framing nailer from Harbor Freight, and the nails for this step were 2" ring shank nails. They don't really specify a gauge, but they are listed as 2" x 0.113. Thanks!
Nice work. That would be time consuming and tough for me to do
Not if you retire. 😊
when you move, you sure move quick.. just paint, trim, doors, gutters, caulking,, etc to go..
Pretty happy with the pace on this. Took a long time to get started, so I had most of it thought out pretty well. Getting close!
Nice video gracias
De nada. Thanks for watching!
ur 1st sheet should have been moved over to the next stud, than no need to fill in gaps, than ur 2nd sheet can meet perfectly with the 1st, ur cut off
from the left corner goes to ur right corner
👍
No Z flashing at the bottom of the siding panels? 🤔
Must have missed that detail! 😃
What kind of nails ? What size nails ? How to trim corners ? What nail pattern on the overlay Panel ?
I think they were 2-1/2" ring shank (better hold). Just added some 1"x4"s to trim the corners. Nothing fancy. No special nail pattern at the overlap - just 6" spacing around all edges and 1' spacing in "the field."
Just like the shed I built. I have a question. What if I wanted the walls taller let's say 9ft and this sheet is 8ft. How will I resolve the issue.
Go buy a board stretcher. 😂
@@hamsandwich9311 lol. I am just wondering how will I added the extra piece and make it water tight. If my walls are bigger than 8 feet and I add a 1 ft strip how do I make the seams water tight. Some guy told me he ordered 9.5ft siding sheets.
I don't know of a larger siding material, but that doesn't mean it's not out there. Also, keep in mind that there is sheathing and house wrap behind that siding, so a seam doesn't necessarily mean water gets into the building. I would just check the manufacturer's installation instructions regarding horizontal seams and if there are any additional measures that need to be taken. In addition, if you're really just talking about coming up a foot short, remember that you can put that seam 8 feet up the wall, and that seam will be largely "protected" by the overhang of the roof. It really shouldn't see much direct water. Hope that helps.
@@MidlifePrices I dont know the framing terminology but let me try explaining my build. I will run dual 2x12s on each side of the cabin and the floor joist will be 2x10s over hanging 1 ft but sitting on top of those 2x12s. I simply wanted to cover most of the 2x10 that runs on the outside of the floor joist. Since my walls are 8ft and I wanted to cover that 2x10 that is where I got stuck but maybe I will keep it simple. Thanks for the tips I am just more into welding than carpentry but I learn stuff everyday.
You forgot the .25" rain screen. Without the rain screen. If rain gets back behind the siding. It will not be able to dry.
Don't recall encountering anything like that in my research. Thought the house wrap was meant to do that job?
I think I saw that on a new build, didn’t know what it was for. It look like a quarter inch wide and couple inches long. They put it at the top end and basically cut a notch out on one corner of the sheet and glued or stapled rain screen. I think they covered it with trim? Is that right Deron?
I can use that type of plywood for a house to live in?
You could if you like!
I'm going to install 11 4x8 siding and Im think about how many nails I might need
Check fastener spacing from the manufacturer, but 6" on the edges and 12" in the field would require around 70 nails per panel.
What do you think about not sheathing but just using that siding as the only barrier?
Maybe if you don't have much wind. I seem to recall having a conversation like this with a friend when I was at this step. I was originally going to put the siding directly on the studs, but was talked into the sheathing for extra shear strength and for better protection after any insulation is installed. I think the house wrap becomes more important at that point regarding moisture. Short answer: you could do it, but it's a risk, depending on your conditions.
Bushradical did that very thing on his channel. He cutout the T1-11 at the window/door openings, installed the T1-11 and then put in the windows. It is a much easier process and much cheaper with the price of sheathing now (30-40 a sheet here).
@@brikshoe6259 Fair point about lumber prices. Could have impacted my choice if I were doing it again today.
In the final video the cost ($4000) and the materials description, I didn't see the cost for the metal roofing and the panel on the exterior walls, thanks
In the summary video (ua-cam.com/video/bn-le-CHeJI/v-deo.html), the metal roofing is listed in a spreadsheet at 2:06 (Notes say "Thunder Mountain"). The paneling is listed in a spreadsheet at 1:17 ("LP SmartSide"). Hope that helps. Let me know if you have any other questions, and thanks for watching!
I see you haven’t battened on top of the membrane. Can you clad straight on top of membrane
That's an excellent question that I'll admit I don't remember even thinking about! It's obviously a little late now, but I just checked the installation instructions for the house wrap, and it doesn't say anything about needing to add battens. Good catch! I hope it's ok! 🤞
Damn now I gotta look up battened... I keep learning stuff here I might have to get unlazy and do something
I hear you, man! 🤔
Ese es alguien te lo puedo trabajar a ojos cerrados Aquí el problema es que no hay plata y todo está haciendo transparente Yo manejo mucho la transparencia no la hipocresía ni el robo aquí aquí el problema no es es problema si no le debes dar una solución cualquiera puede poner siding que lo sepas instalar es bien diferente los felicito hacen un buen trabajo
Y para que empiecen a poner el siding siempre asegúrense Cuál es la entrada principal del frente y es donde van a empezar de la del otro lado para que a modo que cuando no se mire no se miren las uniones
How many nails do u use more or less for each siding 4x8
I forget what the spacing was, but probably something like 6" on the edges and 12" in the field.
maybe you should have installed the siding b4 you set your windows.....Or just some trim around the windows to cover up seams.
Hmm. Interesting suggestion. Made me think for a minute. I think one of the main reasons for setting the windows before the siding is the flashing. I also did eventually put some trim around the windows, too! Thanks for watching.
That or maybe make two U’s that snug up well side to side and meet in the middle. I guess this goes back to figuring how far the window is from edge in the plan. Good to know. Thanks for your videos. They’re are really helping me plan my summer project.
Hubiera sido que mejor le hubieran puesto abajo el el siding media pulgada abajo de los choices y arriba no hubiera habido problema por el SAT y como quiera para que no se hubiera visto el sairin así te hubieran puesto dos unas x 4 si es que no tenían y alcanza a cubrir media pulgada con un relleno arriba de la 1 por 4 y encima la otra a un cuarto copiada queda perfecta Y si le ponen una x 2 más arriba queda hasta más chingona hay más probabilidades a que le pongan el trim abajo claro con flashing pero queda mucho mejor abajo el siding aparte de que ahorran dinero y se empieza siempre el sairin de atrás hacia enfrente para que las uniones no se miren Cuando entras para que las uniones no se miren de la calle principal
Y primero hubieran puesto el sofit con un 16 pasado del 2 x 6 para que cuando pongan las 6 a quede bien cerrado por cualquier mínima imperfección y no tengan que copiar demasiado además queda más más derecho e = 6 es primero Se pone la de los lados para que si hay casas atrás y enfrente bueno principalmente al frente para que no se miren los El zinc las uniones de la feita también y en los gables mínimo tiene que llevar 35 grados a las uniones para que no entre el agua y no se pudre con el tiempo para que haya una instalación chingona sin líquidos ya las ventanas solo se les pone silicón a los lados y arriba abajo no se le pone por si cualquier problema hay alguna entrada de agua y si tiene siliconado todo alrededor de la ventana lo único que va lo que va a pasar es que el agua va a correr hacia dentro y con el tiempo se va se pudre la madera y hay que reemplazar todo otra vez nunca se le pone silicón a ninguna ventana aquí en los Estados Unidos abajo porque si cualquier cosa una fuga de agua el agua tiende a salir con facilidad y no tendrán ningún problema Gracias Que tengan un excelente el comentario no es para ustedes es patas y de repente hay alguna persona que le sirva tal vez alguien tiene una mejor idea de mi parte yo la tomo me puede servir no quiero decir que lo sé todo me falta mucho por aprender creo que voy a llegar a ancianos y no voy a terminar de aprender saludos
What size nails?
I think these were 2-1/2".
Your whole catastrophy with getting the siding panels BEHIND the built-in J-channel wouldn't exist if you'd have installed your panels and cut the window holes from the inside just like you did with your wall sheathing and installed the windows last. Your flashing would be the same around each window prior to installing siding with exception of the top drip edge if you have one which I don't think you do...You're working from the neck down lol BUT you did well after the extra work.
Trying to follow you, Chris. It's been a while, but I think the problem is that the siding has to go OVER the window flashing but BEHIND the window trim. I think the only way to do that is AFTER the windows are installed. Am I missing something?
@@MidlifePrices what brand/ model windows are you using?
@@chrismagnum2710 Just off the shelf from Lowe's. They're labeled "Project Source."
EST costs
I will definitely be addressing this as we approach the finish!
You nail the over lap only. Not both and run a bead off choking in the over lap . Just saying
Hmm. Thanks for the advice. I did follow the manufacturer's installation instructions from their website. Hope it works ok.
You literally talked about that gap on the first window for 6 minutes. Same thing over and over.
Yeah, I tend to repeat myself sometimes. 😃
I like your videos but you talk to much!!!!!!!!
That's me! The engineer in me can't help beating those details to death! 😄
Watch for 13 mins while you talk then you toss in an ad. Thumbs down
Interesting take. Good luck to you.
U talk wayyy to much. I lost interest. Thumbs dwn
Ur grammer and speelimg are to (too) bad. I couldn’t process your comment. And, yes, the mistakes in my first sentence, which you probably don’t have the mental capacity to notice, were made on purpose. Please go back to your ignorant hole in your sad world. Do not subscribe. Do not pass go. Do not collect $200.