I'm pushing 80 and I inherited a 100+ year old house with detached garage that my grandmother build in about 1911. The house has asphalt shingle roof that has been replaced many times. The garage roof is galvanized corrugated metal and it is still there and holding up well after 100+ years of neglect. It does have a dent where a large tree limb fell on it decades ago. Looking up from the inside of the garage you can see bare shiny metal that looks like it was put up yesterday. As far as I can tell, the metal roof looks like it has another 100+ years of life left in it.
Well, if the insurance companies get their way you'll be replacing it if they catch wind of it's age. I don't know about other states but in FL they are requiring replacement of rooves that are over an incredibly ridiculous 10yrs. old. From my experience, they don't care if it is a roof that is built to last a century or two years. I had to search to find a company that would sell me property insurance with a 30 yr. old roof that is designed for a 50yr. lifespan (torch down bitumen). I refused to tear off a better quality roof (also designed for my low pitch roof) to put a cheap asphalt shingle roof that will not last to the end of my orignal roofs lifetime. The politicians remedy for homeowners is to get discounts from the insurance companies for "hardening" your home with impact resistant windows, doors and roof. Another expense for the homeowner that I'm sure is not recoverable ever even with the discount so it's just a BS excuse for screwing the homeowners. The insurance bastards are also making people replace their water heaters if over 10yrs. old so if you paid extra for a better quality tank (30 yr. ) you just threw your money away for nothing. They claim that this is all necessary to stay in business because of the unscrupulous roofing industry that has been getting old roofing replaced based on bogus claims of hail damage by filing claims on behalf of the homeowners. Well, why didn't they investigate these claims better and weed out the bogus ones from the legit ones? They have enough people to go around to take pictures of your property to find stupid things to drop your insurance for.
@@mrBDeye Metal roofs are great where you have wildfires--most wildfires burn down houses by catching roofs on fire, and once the roof is on fire, your house is doomed.
I have installed a few metal roofs as a GC. On my own house I did the south and west sides over one weekend with just minimal fastening. Planed to finish it the fallowing weekend. Had a storm roll in that turned into a tornado during that week. turned into an accidental side by side comparison. Metal side was louder but only noticeable if you really listened as you walked from room to room. The wind was strong enough to pull a few shingles off of my leeward side and chunks from several neighbors roofs. Metal roof half was unaffected by the storm.
@@davidcurtis5398 Seeing less and less shingles in my yard from neighbors roofs. now 2 of my 3 neighbors have switched to metal after witnessing the difference.
@@gueto70 metal roof si the norm in south east asia, especially on places that get typhoons once or twice a month during the rainy season. Maybe it will become the norm (is it already?) on some places in the US.
I installed a standing seam black metal roof (22 gauge) on my house and new 3 car garage 12 years ago. No issues even in hail storms. Since I installed it myself the price was lower than had I went with asphalt shingles on both structures and a contractor do the work. Sure it was completed overnight but I've been very happy with the outcome. And it looks good.
10 years ago I replaced my asphalt shingle roof with stone-coated steel tile (Metro) in a tile pattern. A British expat in my neighborhood (even after hearing me explain the material) calls mine "the house with the lovely slate roof". I was able to get a low-e color that reflects even more heat away, plus the benefit of the air gap and an additional radiant barrier on the deck below it. We have had 3 or 4 massive hailstorms since & my roof is fine--looks great and no problems at all. Everyone else has had their asphalt shingle roofs replaced at least twice. Moreover, you can stand to be in the attic in summertime & my electric bill was cut by almost 2/3! And I got a 25% homeowner's insurance discount. Yes, it was 3x the price of an asphalt shingle roof. But it has (by my accounting) paid itself off and I still have 40-years of life in it that I'm absolutely certain I will get. The only downside to it has been that it is difficult to walk & contractors must know what they are doing to not deform the tiles if they have to get up on the roof (must walk on the front edge like clay tile, as it is on battens). I absolutely recommend it.
@@trinitytoo That's not too difficult if they use a roof ladder. It has "hooks" that loop over the peak and you can walk up the ladder while it lays on the roofing with no issues, regardless of the pitch. We use them in the fire service to climb steep roofs. Newer contractor ones have wheels along the beams on the side opposite the "hook & pad" on the opposite side, so they roll it up the roof, then flip it over onto the other side to hook the peak of the roof. Good example in this photo: lordhire.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/001060.jpg
The airflow through a metal roof during warm times draws air from the lower area outside and lets it escape from the roof top, which is a huge advantage in keeping it cool. I hope the more modern designs keep that thermo-dynamic in mind.
My roof is directly on the sheathing so no airflow. I still benefit because the lighter color reflects the sun and the metal isnt a heat sink like asphalt. People say metal roofs cost too much but Over the long haul they are much cheaper because they last longer and they make the home easier to keep cool.
@@2024harley Most, of not all local building codes requires roof vents. If you have the little vents spaced out on the roof you most likely are up to code. If not then you most likely need vents installed. When I redid my roof I took out all the smaller vents which in reality were not doing me much good as their placement made for a lot of trapped hot air in my attic. A continuous roof vent is what I added and it did wonders for improving the air flow in my attic. Your roof may differ. Additionally, make sure you are asking apples to apples. What is required by code vs adding more vents for better ventilation. Lastly, some builders/roofers really know their stuff, others just want to do a quick job doing what they know and then get out as fast as possible and get to the next job. You are going to deal with the results for years, if not decades, so make sure it is done right the first time. It cost a lot more to change/alter the roof after the fact. Just to be clear, I wanted less holes on my roof and better airflow and for me that meant a continuous roof vent.
All roofs require airflow regardless of latitude and construction material. In the south, you want the hottest air cycling up and out the top pulling in cooler air at the bottom to help promote cooling. The same is true in cold climates. In Cold climates it is important to keep the roof cool to avoid destructive ice buildup and condensation. Venting any heated air out the top of the roof, allows cooler air into the roof's airspace avoiding winter melt and consequential ice build up. So regardless of what material type your roof is made from, air space is a very important part of roof construction.
Depends on whether you have a vented or unvented roof. Some metal roofs are on firring and there is no venting under the sheathing. Don't hire someone if you don't trust them. Any contractor is making decisions you likely won't understand. You need someone trustworthy.
I grew up n Florida mostly under tin roofs without ceilings. The sound of rain on those roofs still lull me to an incredibly luxurious sleep to this day. With my newer insulated roof with a ceiling I am planning a small, say 2' by 2' tin panel on a stand on the roof with a microphone under it connected to a speaker on my bedroom ceiling to this day. Of course this is a reminder of the peaceful days of a childhood in a rural area.
Ooh, I do not like the sound. However, if I am assured that a metal roof is much more likely not to leak, then I might learn to ignore or accept it. One thing I do not like about metal, is how snow slides off of it. Not aesthetically pleasing. I like to see the snow naturally melt off. However, snow sliding off isn't necessarily a bad thing?
@@yosefmacgruber1920 A lot of my pleasure in the sound stems from a childhood feeling of safety and comfort in a warm bed while outside the rain is pouring down and thunder is booming, knowing you are perfectly safe.
@@bitsnpieces11 Sometimes I sort of like to just "enjoy the nature" and not turn on any lights until it become really dark. I can just watch the rain, if I do not have to go anywhere that day. But I do not like the rain, because I think that the old decaying roof will leak or the basement flood. Maybe if cheaply-built houses were built more like sturdy _Star Trek_ spaceships, I might feel more like you. But we have had different experiences.
Have a house acquired in the mid-'60s that is three blocks from the ocean. Shake roof rotted out in a decade. Replaced with a tile-look metal roof. Fifty years and the roof is still fine.
I build on the north Atlantic coast, USA. The classic "beach shack" look uses cedar shakes, but everyone's moving away from them, even for siding, and replacing them with cedar-look vinyl for the same reasons. The salt air is hell for pretty much everything, but the plastic survives. I didn't know that metal could hold up, honestly. It's so corrosive on the beach, even most aluminum rots through after a while. Thanks for the tip.
i work on a multi building near ocean and metal is destroyed even aluminum the steel is all rusted its from the 70s and will need to be torn downn soon
Thanks, so much, for this video. The information and concerns you've addressed here goes a long way to answering pretty much all questions I had about metal roofing. One thing to note - Environmental impact on your property for asphalt vs metal: I had an asphalt roof replaced on my home a couple of years back after a high wind storm ripped through our area. The next SEVERAL rains after the new shingles were installed generated a whole lot of yellowed, oil-contaminated water runoff and absolutely crippled the plants our garden, most of which are grown for food, for well over a year. My plants are back to a more normal growth state now but I would not have even considered replacement with asphalt if I had been aware of the possibility for long-term contamination of my property.
Hey Matt, I haven’t been able to be on your channel for several months due to severe illness. What a perfect video to return to you and your channel as a retired General Contractor myself and installing many metal roofs myself solar is the one major question I have had in my mind while deciding how I wanted to handle it. You have given me the answers I need instead of a ground mounting system like I was going to use you brought up the newer clips that’s my answer now i can install on the roof and save my yard from that big nasty ground mount. THANKS!! I am an old time carpenter that just isn’t fast to change into the newer stuff always you and I have had limited discussions on this subject in the past that being said I haven’t ever had a noise complaint from the couple hundred metal roofs my company installed over the years. Anyway I enjoyed another fine video from you keep up the great work!
…I too enjoy seeing the transitions to fiber-cement siding, metal roofing, PEX plumbing, foam insulation, post-tension slabs, hi efficiency HVAC, solar panels, on-demand hot water. Great innovations and interesting comparisons to the “old days”!
I agree with your method about adding solar: wiring and prepping it during construction is easier and cheaper in the long run. And using that first year's worth of power bills is the best way to size the system 👍
My one concern about sizing a system based on current usage is that usage is likely to grow. Up until this year I used around 5MWh a year and by that measure I've way overspecced my PV system. The modeling software had me using 25% of the power I generate. However I hooked a 10kWh battery pack to the system and I switched from oil heating to a heat pump and from a petrol car to an EV. I'm six months in and I'm on track to use around 97% of what I generate and use around 12 to 15 MWh of energy. Of that, around 40% will come from the grid. PV panels in my case will have little effect on my electricity bill. But what they will do is remove €2,500 in oil bills and €3,000 in petrol purchases per year.
@@KevinLyda Sounds like your system is properly sized now. I think the 1-year baseline is a good place to start. Adding more panels as needs change is always an option.
@@martshearer498 I like to see new pv products in the market. But for my money, I think the modular panels are still the way to go. It's cheaper, proven for durability and longevity, and allow heat to vent away from the roof. Plus they're easy to remove/replace and still maintain value for a growing used PV market.
I've been considering a metal roof for quite a while but my wife has always thought a shingle roof was better. Most of the shops I have worked in had metal roof and siding. Snow never built up on the roof and rain just bounced off the siding. If she wants maintenance free, metal is the way to go. Neighbors are not a concern at all. We are building on our 30 acre property well out of view of the neighbors and the road. Now if I can just convince her of the benefits of a metal roof. Thanks for sharing the information!
Good call, son of the blacksmith. I went with a copper shingle roof from Zappone (Portland, Or), and have had zero problems. The only problems encountered were that my neighbors thought it would blind them (look at a copper penny, they are usually brown after a couple of weeks, it'll turn faster if you mop it in coffee), the city thought it would cause heavy metal pollution due to runoff (we drip onto dirt, though it does make a green drip line on concrete, so any heavy metals just go into the soil. The plants haven't noticed any effects in 20 years), and it's like flashing your entire roof, so it takes a while to tailor everything to fit. Copper is unique in that it can have corrosion problems with steel or stainless fasteners, so use copper or brass fasteners. The aluminum brackets for solar panels will also get attacked. The good thing is that you will probably never have to replace your roof.
My husband moved into our current house in 1974, it had a metal roof. Since that time it's been resealed, had a couple panels replaced, and had the screws redone. I had lived all my life in a shingled roof house. I will never do that again. This roof has been tough as I could ask. We had trees come down all over the neighborhood and most people had trees inside their house. Our metal roof held up in spite of the fact that it shook the house when it came down, and we simply had to replace a couple panels and have it resealed. It was amazing. Because it was built so long aga, we do have a light sound when it rains hard but it's not loud and I find it relaxing. Great video, blessings.
I installed (DYI) a Decra Shake, stone coated steel roof, in the late 90's. It still looks great. No leaks, hail damage or frost damage. It has survived several 110+ mph wind storms. I believe it will out last me. I wouldn't even consider an asphalt roof. Great Video Matt!
Having worked in a building with a metal roof the following was true. If you had a finished ceiling over the space you did not hear the precipitation. If you were in an area with just the purlins framing and blanket insulation you did hear the precipitation. Thanks for the great information.
I can also confirm that level of long-term performance from the Decra stone coated roof tiles, manufactured in New Zealand. In Tanzania there are Decra roofs right on the coast line and they were installed in the mid-90s, and they are still perfect after 25 years. The quality is astonishing.
Installed the Decra tile style roof in '87 and is still going strong. It's actually QUIETER that the double layer of asphalt shingle it replaced. Go figure... I never know when it rains. Installed solar last year with no problems but you must choose a proper solar company with experience on these types of roofs. Several companies didn't even bother to quote because they didn't know how to work with this type of roof. Sad...
Most of the roofs in Finland are metal. Lots of manufacturers and different variations. They typically last 40- 50 years in harsh climate; frost, snow, ice in the winter, hot summers with temperatures to 95 F. I had my roof done some 25 years ago, "snap lock" type. Factory paint is still good, no maintenance needed at all. Yes I can hear the rain if it rains hard, but I´m so used to it that it doesn´t bother me. Get a metal roof and you can forget it for the next 40 years.
My house is nearly 70 years old and most old Australian houses had a Corrugated iron roof, its still ok although rusty looking, it gets noisy in heavy rain and very loud in hail especially if you are in the ceiling cavity. I dont mind listening to the rain when in bed, it a gentle rainfall right now.
@@michaelchu328 stay way way way far away from the tesla solar roof. Imagine trying to find replacement parts or a competent roofer 20 years from now. Get a seamed roof, use S5 clamps like Matt said and use anyone other than Freedom Forever & Tesla (unsurprisingly they are partners) both do terrible work. Find a contractor that uses Aptos or Solaria panels, IQ -8 micro inverters, Enphase batteries and “Span” main electrical panels & car chargers. You can get a brand new roof 50+ year roof and all the stuff listed along with the best solar equipment in the game that will look and work amazingly well for a very long time and not chock full of bespoke, incredibly hard to work on stuff you’re surely going to regret owning
I wouldn't tell anyone to stay away from the tesla roof for those reasons. Their tiles are made from tempered glass that is a lot more durable than, and will certainly outlast a metal roof, from a materials science perspective. The only questions with the tesla roof is how long will it take them to install it and how long the solar cells will last. Last I checked though, their tiles cost about the same as slate and last longer, so even if the PV cells stop working, you'd never absolutely have to replace them. You could leave them and throw normal PV panels on if Tesla disappeared and you had to. Not the same price range as metal, but worth considering if you're looking at slate or clay tile.
I have a stone coated, metal tile roof. When I tried to have solar panels put on it, I had 2 companies void the contract after their installation department found out what my roof was. One of those companies, even went so far, as to suggest that I replace the section of the roof that would be right under the panels, with asphalt shingles. I told them to kick rocks. Eventually, I found a solar company, that are also roofers. They were able to do the job. They have a 'U' shaped bracket. They remove a shingle, screw the bracket to the roof deck with one leg of the 'U' laying down, then reinstall the shingle, in between the legs of the U. They mounted their support rails to the 'U's, then the panels to the support brackets. That is a great setup, that doesn't involve any penetrations of my roof, but apparently, there are quite a few solar installers that are not yet aware of it.
One thing I would add is that a metal roof (especially a standing-seam) isn't going to be damaged by heat buildup, underneath, like an EPDM or asphalt roof would be.
I live in Queensland where most houses have had corrugated metal roofs for over 40 years. They are the only common residential rood type that qualifies for cyclone rating but they are in fact noisy in hard rain and hail. There are ways to reduce the noise but since most builders cut every corner they can get away with here nobody does them. I prefer a continuous structure roof but it cost a lot more and I have no intent to pay someone to build a stick frame house. Asphalt shingles sound weird and very heavy with all that sand and gravel, also there are days when they would melt here. Yes, there are days when the bitumen in the road surface becomes fluid again due to the heat here.
There is a 10+hour video on youtube of rain on an aluminum roof, I missed it when I left the home I lived in as a kid for a while, it still doesn't bother me, I know when my Mom finally built a house, she missed it, that's when I found the video for her. Some people must like it :)
In Texas, because roofing contractors are quite commonly scam artists, they use cheap asphalt shingles that will leave a footprint if you walk on them in the heat!!
Asphalt shingles are actually light weight and are nailed to a plywood substrate. It's not the roof you want in QLD though, stick with colorbond roofing painted white to reflect the heat and your good for 50 years mate.
We were looking at solar for our build and they recommended metal over other options. I'm a big supporter of metal roofs. Thanks for another great video.
Very intrigued by the process that they fasten solar panels to with. What happens when the installer uses 1x4 fur strips over the shingles and they have a select few screwlines? Do they seal in between their bracket and the roof? Does that sealant ever come off again?
@@calebz1448 there are several ways to mount solar panels to a shingle roof. The best involve galvanized plate flashing along with a liquid applied sealer both in the holes andunder the flashing as well as a UV rated tape like you might see on zip sheathing in matts videos
I fully support the use of a standing seam or other seamed roof with solar. Itll be far easier to install, maintain and remove and replace in the future. - a solar company owner who’s overseen > 30,000 installs
@@mattbrew11 I'm sorry I see I worded my response poorly. My question is attaching said solar panels to a steel roof especially a standing seam(hidden fastener?) roof with what kind of clips? When I do residential steel (exposed fastener) we lay over shingles if they have 1 layer but we use 1x4 fur boards that leave nowhere to fasten solar panels except screwlines every 30 inches. We plan out any brackets for things like tv dishes and add a block of plywood or 6 boards butted for a platform to fasten to. As a roofer I also know that whatever attaches the solar panel to a steel roofing panel with an exposed fastener is a high leak potential that goes up as times goes on regardless of sealant
@@mattbrew11 I've seen geocel go bad after 4 years in the sun on a 5/16 bead. Only sealant I've ever seen stand the test of time with steel is butyl or mastic whatever you want to call it I've pulled a camper window out from the 60s with tacky tape still sealing where the sun didn't hit it. We use that inside every panel seam on flat(
I’m familiar with the S-5! Clamp system. What about doing solar on the metal shingle roof systems? Is that essentially the same as installing on a shingle roof with penetrations and silicone boots?
Here in South Africa we have a lot of metal roofs. But also a lot of concrete tiles roof. Those last forever and are the cheapest roofs here. Asphalt roofs does not last in our sun. Natural stone slate are used on expensive houses.
1:12 min I had exposed face fastener problem where gaskets were deteriorated and caused sporadic leaks. I ended up using a spray on Polyprene coating on the roof. These super adhesive and flexible products are primarily for metal roofs and seal all the leaky screws. Topps Products is what I used but there are others.
"Corrugated iron" is the traditional metal roof in Australia. Comes in many different colors these days. I love the sound of rain on a metal roof. I suppose it would become bothersome if it rains a lot.
@@louiscypher4186 The product is dead, not the term, hence the quotation marks. Plenty of people still use the term "corrugated iron", to refer to the classic corrugated profile. Some people still call it a "tin roof", now that is an old term. Zincalume refers to the trademark coating, technically it is zincalume coated steel roof, it is equivalent to galvanized steel roof and looks exactly the same. Colorbond is a different trademark coating, but still it is colorbond coated steel.
My favorite room in my grandmother's house was the upstairs bedroom. I could hear the sound of the rain on her metal roof. I've always loved that sound, it would put to sleep. She of course had the old fashion tin roof.
Yep-you only 'hear' a metal roof in old farmhouses that have no insulation-like my grandparent's. With one fireplace and a wood-burning stove in the kitchen for heat, how they survived and raised 9 kids without freezing to death in winter is beyond me. Of course, people were much tougher back then...
I just did a pseudo “Risinger roof” on my 1980s piece of junk house. Re-sheathed in Zip R, wooden purlins, membrane covered the purlins, and face screwed 5v gavalume down. Sure, it’s less elegant than standing seam, but with the installation I get all the benefits and arrest the maintenance of failing gaskets since there’s an air gap between the Zip and metal. And it cost me 1/2 of a standing seam. Just sprayed the underside today with 3” of closed cell. Excited to measure the electricity changes and comfort for the first time in 17 years of ownership.
I used 1x4 kiln dried, cheap slats. The membrane was ice/water shield. It stuck to the slats like glue. The air gap between the metal and Zip allows for air drying of the wood and wicking of any moisture in the future from a failed nail gasket. The purlins were screwed through the Zip into the rafters with 2” wood screws. I just felt that it resolved the downside of face screwing metal panels onto the house, and took advantage of the rain screen/Zip approach to prevent the metal from intimate contact to the house.
@@cj-ef1rp Very Interesting. I have had this question come up a few times. Cover the entire roof deck with ice/water shield membrane, then cover with metal roof. If so, do you need to be concerned about the metal roof "sticking" to the membrane during expansion and contraction? And do you need purlins vs fastening straight to the roof deck?
I'm completely sold on metal roofs. I had one on a huge home in western NY and I wish I had put it on sooner. Concerning lightening... The surface area of metal roof actually spread the electrons over the entire roof making the danger of fire or shock even less than a simple lightening rod on an asphalt roof. In fact, you might feel a slight shock if you were touching a rain gutter when the lightening strikes.
So round here in the north, metal is about the same price as asphalt unless you want a specialty metal (anything other then Americana (standard corrugated profile)) And as far as life of the metal goes, maintenance is key and when it starts to rust it can be painted. The washered screws, I have seen them loosen but never had to replace worn out gaskets. But not all screws are the same.
Yep, and alot of people don't even realize those screws are actually a consumable product and subject to maintainance. In heavy UV areas they need checked every few years and might need replacing as early as 5 yrs but likely 8-10 yrs. Same with the finish needed tending to. Any growth on them should be cleaned and not by walking on the roof with a broom and a hose. A friend that does the Carolina Carports for 20+ yrs, says #1 rule every new owner should follow....Stay off the roof if at all possible. Anyway...everybody Take care of roof maintainance. 👍👌
I live in a house built in 1979 in FL with a metal roof. I am going to replace it either this year or next, so this show was very informative. Having lived through hurricanes, high winds and severe rain situations, this roof has been a trooper. We did get struck by lightning, but no damage at all. I will never have any other type of roof.
@@indikaGreat The roof was a shoddy DIY project from the last owners .. There is a covered front porch that leaks at the "bend" where roof meets porch. The porch metal should have been shoved under the roof section by 10-12". It's about 2-3 inches, which causes water to blow up under that and run down the inside of the porch. Hope that makes sense. I have a wood stove and the vent on the roof was held together with big blobs of sealant. It was just a bad job. The metal is still good and we will reuse that at some point. But this roof has to go.
Not reflective depends on the type of metal. Years ago I was a sheetmetal apprentice at Savannah River Nuclear and we were tasked with putting up an extension on the pipe fitters shop. We used standard industrial galvanized roofing. Several thousand square feet and a couple of weeks later we finished. But not after getting the first and only sunburn - on the underside of my chin.
As always, you are spot on. The thing you did miss, is the fact that metal roofs can also allow you an external attic or cathedral roof cooling sink. When you put the metal roof on, you can install the metal roof above the ridged, reflective insulation boards with small spacers above the insulation. This creates a positive air-flow to draw heat away from the attic or cathedral ceiling. If the heat has a way to escape before it enters the home, you have less cost in cooling your home. This is only a good fix in an area without high winds or high chance of wild fires. All you need, is 1/8” to allow a massive amount of air to flow.
I have a large house with a multitude of roof forms...gambrel and regular sloping, plus deck covering. Living in a high wind area I have had to deal with conventional shingle repair. When faced with a complete, new build, the use of metal was a no brainer. The only noise I get from rain is when rain drips from the roof onto small overhang metal roof areas. I have a standing seam roof and I am very happy with it.
I have 9" of insulation in my roof, and when it rained the first time after I put on my "snap lock" metal roof, I thought it was the rain of the century. But now I like the sound it makes. I was able to put the 16 foot panels on all by myself on a 10/12 pitch roof. It would have killed me to have had to lug up all the bundles of three tab. I also like the fact that the roof is almost dry after the rain stops. The asphalt roof would stay damp for days. I got a discount from my home ins for having the metal roof too. I have five buildings now with metal roofs that I put on all by myself. I will never have to put another roof on my buildings for the rest of my life.
Im not a roofer. We had a bad winter last year and a tree hit a corner of my log home, an old log home. Thinking of doing it ourselves. Last time I roofed was 45 years ago and it was comp. Think I should attempt this?
@@tomsavasta2750 When I thought of trying to haul Comp up on a 10/12 roof; metal was an easy choice. It goes on easy. Just do a go prep job. I've done house, car port, barn, wood shed, and equipment shed all by myself and i was between 70 and 74 when I did them.
@@tomsavasta2750 I would hire it out so someone can inspect your roof as it is and inform you of any advantages to going back with replacement colors from differing manufacturers. Fastening through the high rib is no longer the approved technique and I've seen a lot of new construction done completely wrong that voids the warranty
@@bigwheelsturning that might be okay at that age for a car port or other things that you can make perfectly square before roofing but remodeling old homes especially log cabins you will find a crooked eave or rake will make hard work stretching or shrinking steel roofing on any pitch over a 6/12 unless you cover the sawtooth with gutters. Not to mention if there is a pitch change with gambrell
8:42 "Metal roofs are loud when it's raining" We have few different materials for roofs here so from my experience with them over the last 15 years: Thin materials in general can be loud, like PVC sheets and metal, because they can start to oscillate from the rain drops. And this can be completely compensated with how they are installed. Insulation makes for a great sound dampener, installing it on wood also helps quite a bit. But most importantly: The more fasteners you use, the better (especially on overhangs)! Every fastener prevents that part of the roof from oscillating and making noise, so don't cheap out on those!
Being a remodel/renovation contractor, myself, I have installed numerous metal roofs in place of asphalt shingles. I highly recommend it to my clients. Once I explain all of the benefits & potential money savings to the customer, it’s a “no-brained” for them. I really enjoyed the videos that you produced on the installation on your home. Very informative-I’ve actually used those vids, when explaining what we were going to do on the jobsite. Thanks for the great content-love the BUILD show👍
Once again, great video! Metal roofs are without a doubt louder, the thing is with building codes today, there is so much mass and insulation, of course it won't be any louder unless say the windows were open on a dormer or something. Then the noise serves as a warning to close the windows during a storm. Win Win. In Alaska many have switched to metal as well. Snow comes off easy, and they last way longer. As you may have guesses shipping to remote areas can get spendy and shipping and installing once every 50 years is better than twice! Cleaning them can be a challenge but nothing that can't be handled creatively! We used two wooden ladders on each side of the peak attached to each other by rope and up we went to clean grandpas metal roof every 10 years or so.
Great video, my issue has been repair work, like seams around skylights. Also, the roof is slick as heck, fortunately I put my tractor as a safety, I slid into the bucket. Is that just metal or is there a shoe? Was using a good grip skateboarding shoe. Leaks are a big deal, do I need to replace screws? Too late? Or blob goo on them
A lot of beautiful options here. As one of Michigan‘s top solar professionals at The Green Panel though, I can’t help to mention compatibility. Depending on the application, a few of these may not be a good choice if homeowners are looking to add solar to their roof. If you are looking to add solar, definitely take Matt’s advice with S-5 clamps and standing seam style metal roof.
Evan, for stone coated metal tile roof, they make a 'U' shaped bracket, that sits above and below the shingle. The shingle is removed temporarily to install the bracket. The support runners that the panels connect to, attach to those brackets. Apparently, not a lot of solar installers are yet aware of these. When I had solar panels put on my home, 2 companies voided my contract, and said that they couldn't install on my roof, once their installation department found out what my roof is. The third time was the charm.
Right on, Matt! After reviewing a variety of roofing options we decided on a Boral Stone Coated Steel roof in a tile look. It was very labor intense but the result is stunning and we expect a long life out of the 50 year warranted material. An added benefit for us was the option to install it as a cold roof application. That made an enormous difference with heat transfer through the deck in direct sun exposure. Come check it out the next time you're in the DFW area!
@@thisismagacountry1318 No, it is a vented over roof with an additional air buffer between the roofing and the deck, allowing for the heat in the roofing material to be vented out the top instead of transferring through the roof deck into the attic. Building Science has articles about it.
Love to sound of rain on the roof, and here in New Zealand most metal roofed houses allow the sound of the rain through. The difference is that the metal roof is attached to battens that are attached to the roof truss's. We don't have OSB or plywood generally directly under our roof.
No, but it is good to have a foil blanket insulation under the Colourbond. Cuts the noise but more importantly keeps the heat out and the warmth in ! ( Oh, other way around for you Kiwis ! )
@@linmal2242 Mostly here in New Zealand our roof insulation layer is directly above the ceiling rather than just under the roof. Hope this makes sense.
We have a galv-alum “M-Panel” metal roof here at the weekend ranch in Texas, south of DFW are. Was apparently installed in 2000 by previous owners. We get a discount on our insurance and never hear the rain because we added spray foam insulation underneath the rafters throughout the 100-year old structure. All-electric C/C & heat in 3600sqft and highest electric bill around $200 in 103 degree heat or 10-20 degree cold in winter.
@ 10:00, this comment will also harken back to the other myths and some others ... So we out 50 yr architectural shingles on our house 21 years ago and we looked into metal. Just metal was cheaper, upgrade thickness...still cheaper. But, once you do some of what had come out a couple years prior as in more durable finishes and the mat finishes and when you add the quite backing (a factory applied...like a spray on) and then say hidden fasteners and such and then you gotta get hurricane rated too, then you are at or above the highest premium roofs (tile, slate etc..) and headed to double my 50yr. 21 years later and 15+ major Midwest storms and 3 tornados down our street and just a couple shingles and about 20 feet of ridge cap [20yr 3 tab shingle) needed replaces as they blew away from a tornado that took a stick built shed with 2 riding mowers and about 800lbs of other yard equipt. and a prefab shed full of crap and they were right next to the house. Our neighbors have reshingled their 20yr shingled roof and next to him a new metal roof. The metal was premium but not top of the line. I guess the point is that a metal roof CAN be cheaper, if using middle of the road stuff. But it can also be nutty expensive to where you may say, "shoot why not just do slate or tile" as that would be different as most don't go there (here in the midwest) and still have a 50yr roof. I say Bunk on the just as expensive comment because compared to 20 yr 3 tab shingle like 90% of Americans have, metal is more expensive even if you don't get the noise abatement, upgraded thickness, and premium coating. Also, at my brothers house with metal roof we don't get cell signal unless close to an outer wall. Sorry such a long comment
This was excellent! The 2 things I didn't hear, in this video were * Extreme heat, yup I know Austin gets warm, I'm in Mesa, AZ (E Phoenix) where its routinely 105-120F during the summer. * OK for mobile/manufactured homes. Thanks a lot, Safe Travels!
Hey Matt... I live in a 1890s Acadian cottage with a corrugated metal roof. I got a good laugh when you mentioned the severe weather myth. August 29th 2021 Hurricane Ida came calling. I live 1/4 mile from an Airport. 116 MPH winds with gusts of 138 were recorded. Zero roof damage.
Like the way the Kiwis and Aussies always innovate in the building materials arena. Practical and functional are the key principles. The States finally adopted Australian fiber-cement siding (HardiPlank) as the standard…after years of insisting that Masonite resin-fiber siding was “sufficient”. Nobody uses Masonite on new construction these days. You can see the rotting Masonite facia and siding on the houses built from the 60s-late 80s!
Great video. I live on the gulf coast and 26g is required in some areas for wind resistance. I install it over 29g anyway as it's not much of an up cost.
I live in the San Francisco Bay Area East Foothill. A couple of comments: 1. I originally had a concrete tile roof. One of the reasons I changed to a metal roof is that it reduced the weight significantly. Thereby greatly reducing the moment of force exerted by earthquakes. I feel much better living in a house that was engineered for all the weight above and now with a lightweight Roofing place. 2. The roof was installed with foam insulation. My master bedroom has a vaulted ceiling with virtually no space between the ceiling and the roof. However we really do not experience any unusual rain noise. 3. I told the roofer while he was installing the new roof, to make sure that he follows the fastening protocol properly as we have significant winds in this area. During the weekend while the roof was under construction we had such a windstorm and it tore several of the roofing sheets loose and threw him out in the field behind my house. The young man doing the installation pleaded with me not to tell his boss what had happened as it destroyed several of the panels. I told him I would not say anything if he made sure to over secure the roof panels, which he did. As a result, I have not had any wind damage to the roof in the last 20 years. 4. One downside, is that I had two major television antennas in the Attic that I installed while the house was under construction. Once the metal roof was installed, they no longer function properly. However it made no difference as I switch to Cable anyway. 5. Regarding cell phone reception, it does not come in through the roof, it comes in through the walls as it is line-of-sight. So it has no effect from cellphone operation. 6. Extreme Caution must be observed while walking on the roof as the panels will dent easily if not properly walked upon.
The biggest plus for a metal roof in the south is the ability to add a radiant barrier. I have shingles and this is the main plus for doing metal for me.
Radiant barrier is the way to go. Considering doing Sharkskin Ultra Radiant or self adhesive ice and water shield with Ultimate-foil on top, 1” battens on the 45, topped by solar white metal roof secured by hidden fasteners. One of Matt’s videos shows the reflective foil facing down toward the underlayment. This seems totally wrong because I thought the shiny radiant barrier need an air gap. Waiting on Matt or another expert to post a video (or comment) addressing which way to face the shiny side of radiant barrier in this situation.
@@dixiemason99 radiant barrier reflects both ways. First time we installed a reflective radiant barrier underlayment, we called the supplier to verify the plain English instructions to put the shiny side down. Yup. Shiny side down. The radiation it is blocking (reflecting) is not visible and does not require a visually shiny surface. As you already know, radiant barrier under composition roofing reflects what has already passed through substantial amount of material. If the radiant barrier will reflect it back through the same material (which it does: you'll experience if you install roofing over it) a thin non-slip surface poses no significant obstacle to its reflective abilities. Again, if the instructions say shiny side up, install it up. If they say down, install it down. If it doesn't say, contact the supplier to verify.
@@NickByers-og9cx I'm not 100% certain on this, but I BELIEVE it's because it'll fry the shingles. Radiant barrier requires an air gap to insulate the roofing material. There are some special systems that allow you to use radiant barrier with shingles - they all involve creating an air gap between the roofing material and the radiant barrier - but in general on a standard shingle roof, you can't use a radiant barrier
@@dixiemason99 Polar Wrap (brand) is 3/8" styrofoam ("bead board") with an aluminum ("aluminized" mylar) foil facing which is installed alum. foil side down. The foam provides the "spacing" between the radiant barrier and the roofing metal. And since it, by necessity, it gets walked-on during installation of the metal, the foil isn't damaged. The Polar Wrap allows metal installation over old shingles which represents quite a savings over stripping/hauling-off the old composition roofing materials. Estimates were double for stripped roofing! I use unpainted Galvalume which probably reflects long-wave solar radiation as well as, and perhaps better than white paint and will never develop paint problems. These roofing choices will pay for themselves in energy savings in just a couple of Florida summers. Here we pay for cool, rather than heat.... This may be only a theoretical benefit, but one should consider the "thermal flywheel" effect of the heavy mineral surfacing as well as the weight of the old shingles and under-layment. Leaving the shingles on while the job is being performed prevents interior rain damage and/or having to "tarp" unfinished areas of the roof. The Polar Wrap also allows installers to step anywhere on the roof or "tin" during metal installation, unlike having to step very carefully on just the furring strips. Any "misstep" (between furring strips) WILL wrinkle the tin! (even 26ga.) A wrinkle= a rust spot=a future failure! The resilience of the styrofoam accommodates any surface undulations of the old shingles. Upstairs rooms are noticeably cooler and no audible difference can be discerned even during heavy downpours. Hail might be "different story." But the most noticeable improvement is in having two highly-reflective surfaces facing "ol Sol" rather than black (once white---40 years ago..) shingles. A competent installer will use plenty of fasteners, especially around the perimeters. The metal "comes with" plenty of screws for the job. They're long enough to penetrate tin, foam, old shingles and decking (although they might not penetrate decking with furring strips (which would then depend upon how well the strips were fastened to the decking...) A good installer will use the correct clutch setting on his driver to prevent "dimpling" of the metal (which would eventually create a water problem) yet "snug-up" the gasket-washers on the screws. My advise would be: Go metal an' be DONE WITH IT! I'm certainly no "expert" (but that has never kept me from being opinionated....)
When I used to install solar panels I found metal roofs were our preferred roof. It was much easier and simpler to install them on metal roofs. Also, other than during ice conditions it was easier and safer to walk on metal rooves. And to be clear during ice conditions its not safe to walk on any type of roof.
About 7 years ago I installed a standing seam roof on my house, garage and shed. When I first looked into the cost factor, the decorative asphalt shingles were $8,000. The metal came in at about $11,000. All the materials used under either system was nearly the same, so I went with the metal. Installing the metal was another story. One would think that with all those long panels the job would go quickly. This is true but, for all the finish work and the extra amount of care in the way the flashing was installed, it was just short of being a nightmare. (Time consuming). I had 10 sections on the house to deal with, 5 ridges, and 4 valleys. Not to mention the 3 skylights and 2 chimneys. (Time consuming). As I was not able to devote my entire time to the project, (I have a maintenance and remodeling business to operate), I spent 3 years to complete the project. I could have done the project with shingles in the first year. Now I did make remodeling changes with each step of the project, so there was time spent for that. Added a dormer here, removed a dormer there. Did I mention it was time consuming? As Matt pointed out about the myths, I hear no more sound when it rains than when I had shingles. The dark red metal reflects more heat in the summer. Though the metal may feel hot when the sun is on it, that heat quickly disappears without the sun. Asphalt shingles on the other hand retain the heat. I did a bit a testing of both surfaces to compare. My only complaint is that where there are trees overhanging, it becomes dirty. Washing it is a bit of a chore. Just a note for anyone in snow prone areas who wants to install a metal roof of any style, snow guards are a must!
it can be time consuming for a person that doesn't do it every day. Ridges are nothing but valleys can be tricky. Now to flash a skylight properly, that's a whole different ball game. The key word was properly. You are absolutely correct on the snow gauds.
Good video. I definitely learned something when you got to 13:12, I had no idea this kind of mounting system existed for solar panels & metal roofs. But that's pretty slick!
Thank you so much! Your video here came at a perfect time. I'm looking to switch from the heavy spanish tile to the metal roofing. To which I hadn't dug deep enough, yet to know that there is a style of metal that looks like tile. THANKS! You gave me some more food for thought. Blessed Day to ya! Jenn
After we got an insurance settlement for roof damage, we decided the longevity of metal made it well worth the extra cost. My wife chose a deep red steel, and she loves it every time she sees it. We don't notice any louder sound when it rains.
About 50 years ago my Dad & I put a standing seam, tern coated stainless steel, complex shape roof on his house. I'm now 79 and it's going to out last me.
@@manstersr Price is lost in time but it was a bear to work with. Roof had multiple octagonal sections. All hand tools except for a drill based cutter.
really informative! Thank you! im still trying to research (and assuming it is) if metal is great for living on a mountain in the north of the US AND at what at what "pitch" is best. Current plans are set with a roof at 2 1/2 pitch, but roofer is concerned that it should be at a 3 pitch...which will change the look of the house outside a bit. I've heard that metal roofing in winter weather with a roof pitch at 2 is still good and ok. (?) Heavy snow loads is what I have to be concerned with.
As a construction consultant, This Old Beach House, Inc, I've recommended several metal roofs. One in particular was an Atlantic Ocean beachfront home for a fairly well off client. He previously had asphault shingles (twice) and a standing seam metal roof. We suggested and the homeowner agreed, on a product from Canada called Nailite, (recycled tin and aggregate material). Couldn't be happier, expensive but extremely durable.
I've been doing Metal over 40 years, I think I've installed most kind, to me the best is mechanical standing seam, alot of it is in the Install and the Trim, also becareful when you buy Insurance, they will put a cosmetic Clause and deny Claims because the denting doesn't leak. Metal is awesome though.
Would have liked to hear information regarding signal blocking (cell, radio, tv, etc.) of metal roofs. Good content for what was provided though. Thanks.
"Won't metal be hotter than asphalt?" That's another one I hear all the time. It's not intuitive but even the darkest metal roofs outperform light colored asphalt shingles on solar reflective index.
@@FireStormOOO_ And all that can be overcome with a shirt, jeans, gloves and a good pair of boots if you need to be on it. If this is the only con, it's a win. I have never had an issue on my green metal roof in South Georgia in the summer, but then, I wore the same on the shingles because you'd get road rash if you didn't.
Great episode Matt!!! I'm planning to build my own house in 2 years with a metal roof and solar. I'm researching every aspect of home building. I really enjoy your channel. Keep up the great work!!!!
I have Roser Steel Slate Stone coated steel roof. I bought it 2019, its been a great roof. Yes you can hear the rain but its not bad. It was about double the cost of class 4 asphalt shingles. Kinda the funny thing is I called 3 companies to get quotes, only 1 showed up. I called another, which he was the contractor we picked. We did note that the temp did drop in our house after our asphalt shingles were removed.
It’s crazy to see all other options than a metal roof, over here in Australia a metal roof is default and cheapest option due to being much lighter than tiles. Metal roofs here are loud due to AS roof insulation standard being minimal. I’d trust metal over any other material when I comes to durability and leak potential
Question about metal roofs... I live in the Pacific NW and have large cedar and fir trees constantly dropping needless onto my low pitch asphalt roof (ranch style home). I tend to go up and use a leaf blower to clear off the debris, would metal shed the needles easier, and if not, would I have a harder time walking on a metal roof, or risk damaging it? Thanks Matt!
Hi Christian. I can kind of help you out here. Obviously you are still going to get the same amount of debris but it will be easier to clean. Asphalt, cedar and tile are very rough so they tend to catch and hold things. If the roof is installed correctly you can walk on it no problem but a good talking point with your contractor. Not as grippy so be careful. Have your roofer install eyebolts. Get yourself a roofers harness and a decent rope and you'll be safe if used correctly. One thing I would recommend is talking to your contractor about putting zinc strips at the ridges. This will help reduce the mold/moss growth we get here in the PNW. Good luck.
Metal will be less grippy, as Gary states, but it also depends on the pitch (angle, slope, whatever). I have a large chicken coop with corrugated metal roof but low angle, it's under an evergreen and it doesn't shed as much as I'd like. But relatively easy to clean.
I live in the NorthEast and have large pine trees hanging over my newly installed standing seam roof. I've not gone through a whole season yet, but my experience so far has been generally positive when it comes to dealing with the pine needles. First, my roof has a bit of a texture and is not that steep so the needles do stick.... a bit. It doesn't take much from the blower to move them, I can get the roof cleared off in two passes vs the 7 or 8 back and forths I used to do on the asphalt. That being said what I have noticed and am keeping a close eye on is how the needles get caught under the standing seam. They pop out easily when I angle the blower at the seam, but I feel like the time I saved on not having the multiple passes is being spent on clearing seams. Damage? The metal sits pretty flat (flush) on the roof deck so I've never go the feeling I could damage it. My initial concerns when I went up for the first time was flattening out the striations that they formed in the panel to mitigate "oil canning". Turns out not to be an issue, the form is so shallow stepping on them doesn't effect them at all. Hope this helps
@@explorenaked I figured as much with regards to "slippery when wet"! lol Yeah, my main concern is simply not damaging the metal roof. At the very least, my gutter-guards would be doing their job and forcing me to clean them out vs. the roof. I've still got about a decade on my current asphalt shingles (with embedded zinc to help with the moss!), but have lots of time to investigate further. I'll have to check out other metal installs in the area and chat with the homeowners to see what their experience has been like. Thanks for your input!
On new builds, when it comes to solar it's not the roofing material ( brackets for almost anything nowadays) , it is the truss design. Can't tell you how many builders forget to tell the truss company about the possible added load of solar panels ( the truss engineers need to know the added possible load weight).
Living in an area where hailstorms are frequent and can be quite severe I've watched the neighbors replace their roofs many times in the 40 years since the metal roof (which still looks good!) was installed. This is on my church, I've tried many times but have failed to get the HOA to switch to metal roofs and yes the roofs are going to be replaced again this summer because of a series of three intense hailstorms this spring.
I had my asphalt shingled roof replaced with aluminium shingled roof. I'm very happy with it, looks like the day it was installed after 8 years. It bears a 50 year warranty. One thing you have to know: very hard rain is heard inside as the water droplets hit the metal, it's no problem for me, even if I have very thick fibreglass insulation in my attic (18 inches). In the winter snow does not stay on the roof very long, that's nice but when it all comes down at the same time you have an avalanche, even worse if there is an ice crust on that snow, it could be lethal, you must have snow shields installed otherwise you might get sued by your mailman if the pitch is over the entrance.
A warranty is bullturds..I was at sales meetings.. Companies use it to sell then go belly up change name to avoid warranty.. Its their business model... YES it is.. Vinyl windows are a prime example.. even just changing the business name means warranty is gone.... Its just a busines..money etc.. Aint reality grand..
@@peter-pg5yc You are right, but I'm not naive to swallow that crap. At the most I see this as a sign the company figures it's of a good enough quality to last long enough they don't risk a ton of claims in the next few years. The life of most small manufacturing companies is around 15 years.
When I was considering a metal roof, the cost of having a pro do it was prohibitive for me. So, I decided to buy the materials and install it myself. The metal company I bought the materials from was very helpful in my selections. The consultant from the roofing company that quoted me recommended that I leave the existing shingles in place for sound insulation. I can't hear anything from the roof when it's raining. Only rain sound I hear is from the air conditioners in the windows.
@@linmal2242 A "spot check" in several suspect locations can tell you a lot about the condition of the decking. The weight of the old composite materials usually isn't a factor, assuming your trusses/rafters are sound.
Metal roofing has come a long way. I would like to see how you deal with roof penetrations, PVC vent pipes 3" & 4", cement block chimney and steel chimney flashing for a 12" steel double wall gas furnace vent.
You avoid them at all cost. In my case I was able to eliminate all 7 roof penetrations (6 vents and gas furnace exhaust) by combining the sanitary vent stacks in the attic and exiting through the gable end of the house. The gas furnace exhaust was eliminated by removing the gas furnace and switching to mini-split heat pumps. Oh, and the chimney. In my case I took the chimney down and rebuilt the roof where the notch-out for the chimney was. The chimney was on a gable end wall and intruded into the roof only 6" or so, so it wasn't hard to "fill-in" the roof where the chimney was.
Unless they got exposed fasteners (I doubt it was cheaper but could be close). I recently had to replace my roof, and I initially wanted metal but the exposed fasteners are the only metal product that is comparable to asphalt shingles when it comes to price. But the those fasteners need to be replaced every five years or so and that was a deal breaker for me ( not to mention your installer needs to be good because if those fasteners aren't square or you have issues day 1). I then went in looked into hidden fasteners or seam metal roof and found those to be 4 times more expense then asphalt in my area. In the end it was back to asphalt shingles for me. Metal just wasn't worth it for me exposed fasteners, maintenance nightmare, and hidden type are way too expensive.
Number 4, noise, metal roofs in sheds/garages/warehouses/etc with no OSB and insulation and ceiling cavity and ceiling below that to isolate you from the noise ARE noisy. But in a house that's properly built, no, not noisy. Concrete tiles, even exposed with nothing between you and them are quiet in the same conditions, though.
As long as the house is properly insulated, yep won't be as noisy overall. But if it's an older home (such as mine, built in 1898) it could definitely be noisy.
Absolutely, in a pole barn. But put OSB sheathing underneath like you would in a dwelling, and it's largely attenuated. Add insulation, like you have to do just about anywhere, and it's a non-issue.
I just put a metal roof on our house after needing to replace the shingles every ten years from damage. I've got a brother telling me how stupid it was, and how I paid double what a single roof would cost... No noticable noise increase, and it seems cooler upstairs.
What's great about metal roofs is that they release the heat they absorb quicker than asphalt roofs. I have two layers on my roof and metal will be my next roof.
My parents have a metal roof from the 80's. In regards to lightning strikes, mum had a lightning strike to the power pole right in front (100m) of her house, amongst taller trees wile her house is out in the open (the shockwave from the transformer exploding 15 mins later from the fire was impressive). Once pice of evendence to back you up.. and with an acual strike, a well grounded roof (if not overly grounded roof) will also minimize damage in my opinion. With the noise from rain, mum and dad dont have inselation and you can very much hear it. Inselation will help with the heat as well as the noise.. 40 years later it is showing rust spots, might have to fix that as there water comes from the roof. Oh and thats a corrugated iron roof i think, the wavy kind.. less the 1km from the beach
With a metal roof you have a "Faraday Cage." Look it up if you don't already know. In the East lightning always comes with rain and any dampness on the walls will conduct the strike to ground. But you could also install ground rods and direct wire to points of roof. Here in Florida the metal suppliers will not warranty their material if installed less than one mile from salt water.
Great presentation, you answered all my question plus, you educated me as to all the new innovative options, but I’ve been a fan of metal roofing for years because of the storm damages asphalt roofs suffers, thank you!
I have a simple double wide manufactured home in Northwest Washington State. You know the cheap three tab shingles that surprisingly I was able to keep repaired and patch for almost 24 years before I needed to do any replacement. I had long grown tired after each and every fall and winter windstorms to go up and replace blown off tabs. I finally had the entire roof pulled up and had only a small bit of rot on the underlayment but I had the entire sheet of OSB replaced and then be went with batten strips foam insulation between them and then had then entire roof installed in standing seam with hidden fasteners. As I got older and with balance issues from a inner ear disorder it was great to have to only go up once a year to just check that everything is ok on the the roof. After 7 years I finally notice a bit of the sealant around one roof vent needed replacement and I got the sealant and resealed it but also three cans of wasp killer that had taken up resident in some of the vents. I am happy I went this way low upkeep and no real issues.
As long as you have the tools and understand the work and application, metal is the ultimate DIY roofing. You can literally take days off and do it mid-winter in some of the worst climates. I would not say that the metal roof is more expensive than asphalt in the long run simply because there is no asphalt shingle that will survive as long as the metal and the ones that come close are hideously expensive. Your efficiency and reliability savings are going to far outweigh the price difference. If you ever have to do structural repair or any kind of pull-and-replace work like water damage the metal is going to instantly pay for itself.
In new Zealand by far the most common roof is colour steel roofs. They are cheap and if painted ever 10 years after the first 20 years has passed will easily last well over 50 years. Just did a full replace of a 50-60s roof on my old house and only cost 12k nz (8k usd) and a team of about 6-8 guys came out and re did the entire thing in a day long run steel is easy cheap and durable.
Matt, I believe you when you say that an insulating layer right under the metal will dampen the sound of rain. But there is one sound it cannot dampen--snow avalanching off the roof. That sound will wake the dead. If you live in serious snow country, get snow brakes on your metal roof. Or prepare to be awakened after death. Perhaps being awakened after death is desirable!
We have R20 Batts for insulation, and yes it is noisy, rain hail, sun comes out it snaps quite a bit, clouds cover the sun, shaping etc, I believe that is why that side has developed leaks around the exposed screws. I have tried to address them with spray silicone, less leaks but still there. My next plan is perhaps larger screws, or strip the tin off, ( just strapped on 2 ft spacing)boarded it all up, add ice and water shield membrane then put the tin back on with the larger fastners.
The most popular style of roofing material in Oz is the Custom Orb corrugated roofing in Colourbond finish. This profile is about 2 inches "deep" with each wave or corrugation about 3 inches from peak to peak. This is either nailed or Tek screwed to the roof structure.
A future video about expansion and contraction details for metal roofs would be nice, especially for those of us in temperate northern climates that can easily get 100F temperature swings during the course of the year.
As I said above, my new colourbond roof squeaked gently for about one week until all the screws had settled down in their holes. Could only hear it at night when all the traffic had stopped!
For best results, choose a snap-lock standing seam metal roof with clips to hold the panels in place. The metal panels slide under the clips as they expand when heated and contract when cooled. The panels are fixed to the roof deck or battens along the ridge edge underneath the ridge cap using screws. The eave end of the panels are free to move and are typically retained using a hem (180 degree bend) at the end of the panel that hooks onto a special eave trim that has a protrusion that the hem hooks over. A bit of clearance is built into the connection so that it won't bind under extreme temperature conditions. You can find out more about this by searching for eave flashing for standing seam roofs.
@@gregben Damn, it's always fun to see a response to a comment I made a year ago or more lol. We detail standing seam metal roofs somewhat often in the various firms I've worked, so I'm sorta familiar with the system. But thanks for explaining it in details! I work in multi family, so we mostly have flat roof assemblies and I don't get into the weeds detailing other roof types as often as I'd like.
I live in the woods in Washington and I got 10 years from a comp roof. We have plenty of rain and the moss is a killer. I will admit that I did both roofs and I made some mistakes on the first one. Commercial carpenter by trade ill own that I did some things wrong. Did my research and did my metal roof about 5 years ago and couldn't be happier. No noise, no moss build up. My mom asked me at the time what about the next time. It's a 60yr roof and I said I'll be 105 and I won't care !
What is that goes bad. Does roof actually rust through and dissenagrate? What about the fasteners, specifically the rubber washer under the screw going bad?
@@bradanderson6350 The fasteners last for decades and the rubber washer is nitrile, ditto. If you have to, unlikely, just hop up and replace em. Easy, back em out, screw in a newie!
I'd love to use your roofers -- around here (just two hours away), metal roofs are about 4-5x the cost/square compared to nicer asphalt shingles... even replacing them every 15 years, that still gets you quite a bit of mileage...
What??!!! Where are you? Here in British Columbia metal roofing and asphalt shingles are about the same price per square foot. Of course, apples and oranges: there are many models and styles with different prices. You can spend a lot or a little. I never use anything but steel roofing these days.
Metal is about triple not 4-5x either ur asphalt guy is extremely cheap or metal extremely expensive. In Michigan it’s about 3-500$ per sq for asphalt depending on shingle quality roof cuts and pitch and 9-1250$ for metal
@@paulmaxwell8851 Down here in Texas the style of roofs with all the cut up designs actually significantly adds to the labor and the trim material detail compared to Straight Gable Roofs, which are a breeze.
I've installed double-locked standing seam roofs in Maine for many years. For our climate I think it is the best but is quite labor intensive, especially when dealing with valleys, skylights, etc.. If you add sealer to the seams and fabricate valleys with knuckles and sealer pockets it is essentially a membrane when finished which makes it the ultimate solution to winter ice dams which are a huge problem during winters up here. Exposed fasteners metal roofs will always have issues with screw failure no matter how carefull you are when torqeing the screw. Most common failure with them(other than spinning out) is ,because of metal expansion and contraction, the screws will literally unscrew themselves over a period of years. I kid you not , I have seem whole sections of roof with screws un wound from a1/8 to as much as 1/2 an inch. Love your comment about asphault shingle roof warranties, they are such a joke. Fibreglass shingles have had issues since they were first introduced and they haven't fixed the issues yet and I doubt they ever will. Your lucky to get 15 years out of them regardless of warranty around here and every contactor I know has the same opinion. And we don't even get the shingle destroying hot summers that southern climates get.
I find that with hardwood, or even pine battens the screws never move. That 40mm metal top hat style batten though, screws can unwind and become loose.
I love my dark brown metal roof. I had day star lights for installed too, and love them too. I can hear the rain on the newer part of the house and I live it. It reminds got when I was a kid growing up!
@@LifeOfSi I bet they thought you were saying a metal roof is crazy. If you WERE saying that, then of course you're nuts. I took it as, "Hey, houses are SO different all over the world. It's crazy!" Yup. Totally agree. Sometime look at how window trim abutting clapboards are dealt with in the northeast (US) vs the south
@@namedpipes I have a metal roof on my house and it’s super common in Perth Australia to have a “corrugated roof” I have never seen the steel roof that looks like the shingles before as we don’t build shingle roofs.
I didn't read all the comments( just to many👍) but I love the sound of a gentle rain 🌧on a tin roof, also if you are collecting rain water for your garden or other uses a asphalt roof leaches oil from them as a tin does not.👍 plus snow slides off a tin roof where asphalt can hold more snow especially a heavy wet snow. Thanks for your video.
Leaves blow off or rinse off in rain better on these roofs too. In Florida anyway where are trees have small leaves i don’t know about up north with big leaves
Here in New Zealand, if you don't put on a lightweight metal roof of some sort, then you are crazy. Anyone considering tiles is insane. Who wants 30-tons of concrete or slate sitting above your head, levering your house apart during the next earthquake? It's been shown NZ ColourSteel has a lifespan in excess of 50 years. Discussion over!
We had a house in the SF Bay Area that had a concrete roof, the first time I ever thought about that tonnage overhead during a quake was when you mentioned it.
Good video. However, apparently I am the exception to the rule. I just replaced my fiberglass shingled roof after 35 years. So I used similar product in red again as I have a Mediterranean style house. Original plans called for clay tile, but that was waaaay out of my budget. The red shingles mostly accomplishes the look. Not perfect, but looks pretty good.
I live in texas and have had an asphalt shingle roof on a mobile home since 1996 and it's been thru all those summers and weird winters and a tornado in 2006 and should have been replaced long ago. It just costs more than we can afford but it's still doing what it needs to do kinda.
Nice video, but I do have some 'myths/facts' that I would like to get your opinion on... 1. Do metal roofs fade in color fast enough to notice say within 20 years? 2. Do metal roofs rust? 3. What to expect cost and frequency-wise for fastener replacement? 4. Lastly, insurance companies might not give much discount as compared to asphalt, possibly due to lack of experience, but in the end you might not get a good discount? Thanks! Great job and love your videos. Mike
OK, i did in home sales in the bay area seeing 2 to 3 customers a day for years and years been all over.. Been in more homes then you ever will, every neighborhood too. So i always asked about the metal roof.. geez most if not all had a leak and a problem.. With the product.. Yes they did. .Its quieter, when installed over the old roofing.. BUT the companies are gone bankrupt or just disappeared.. every company has their own way, tools parts to complete the roof. .They are NOT interchangable or compatable.. NO roofing company will touch their roofs because they do not have the exact parts to repair the leaky roof. .Trees falling earthquakes, fires, you name the calamity.. NO ONE WILL TOUCH THEIR LEAKY ROOF... I have personally talked to these peoples more times then i wanted too.. I lost sales over their having to replace leaky unrepairable metal roof.. The cost factor, and distrust of contracters.. But a leaky roof always comes first.. (think obsolescence what was thought as great then is not now) I do not sell anything i am happily retired.. A regular comp roof is easily repaired, no matter the damage..No special tools or flashing parts needed.. Food for thought..i used to love metal roofs... But reality set in.......
I'm pushing 80 and I inherited a 100+ year old house with detached garage that my grandmother build in about 1911. The house has asphalt shingle roof that has been replaced many times. The garage roof is galvanized corrugated metal and it is still there and holding up well after 100+ years of neglect. It does have a dent where a large tree limb fell on it decades ago. Looking up from the inside of the garage you can see bare shiny metal that looks like it was put up yesterday. As far as I can tell, the metal roof looks like it has another 100+ years of life left in it.
Well, if the insurance companies get their way you'll be replacing it if they catch wind of it's age. I don't know about other states but in FL they are requiring replacement of rooves that are over an incredibly ridiculous 10yrs. old. From my experience, they don't care if it is a roof that is built to last a century or two years. I had to search to find a company that would sell me property insurance with a 30 yr. old roof that is designed for a 50yr. lifespan (torch down bitumen). I refused to tear off a better quality roof (also designed for my low pitch roof) to put a cheap asphalt shingle roof that will not last to the end of my orignal roofs lifetime. The politicians remedy for homeowners is to get discounts from the insurance companies for "hardening" your home with impact resistant windows, doors and roof. Another expense for the homeowner that I'm sure is not recoverable ever even with the discount so it's just a BS excuse for screwing the homeowners. The insurance bastards are also making people replace their water heaters if over 10yrs. old so if you paid extra for a better quality tank (30 yr. ) you just threw your money away for nothing. They claim that this is all necessary to stay in business because of the unscrupulous roofing industry that has been getting old roofing replaced based on bogus claims of hail damage by filing claims on behalf of the homeowners. Well, why didn't they investigate these claims better and weed out the bogus ones from the legit ones? They have enough people to go around to take pictures of your property to find stupid things to drop your insurance for.
The roof you have is 16 gauge they do not make like this anymore
@@manstersr Well said, willing to bet most Florida buyer don't even consider those facts.
It's good for a barn or garage. I wouldn't put that shit on my house.
@@mrBDeye Metal roofs are great where you have wildfires--most wildfires burn down houses by catching roofs on fire, and once the roof is on fire, your house is doomed.
I have installed a few metal roofs as a GC. On my own house I did the south and west sides over one weekend with just minimal fastening. Planed to finish it the fallowing weekend. Had a storm roll in that turned into a tornado during that week. turned into an accidental side by side comparison. Metal side was louder but only noticeable if you really listened as you walked from room to room. The wind was strong enough to pull a few shingles off of my leeward side and chunks from several neighbors roofs. Metal roof half was unaffected by the storm.
After a storm it is so nice to go out to the drive and not see shingle pieces all around...
@@davidcurtis5398 Seeing less and less shingles in my yard from neighbors roofs. now 2 of my 3 neighbors have switched to metal after witnessing the difference.
@@gueto70 metal roof si the norm in south east asia, especially on places that get typhoons once or twice a month during the rainy season. Maybe it will become the norm (is it already?) on some places in the US.
love that sound in the rain as long as its not too loud. but really, its only barns with nothing else under it that its like that
I installed a standing seam black metal roof (22 gauge) on my house and new 3 car garage 12 years ago. No issues even in hail storms. Since I installed it myself the price was lower than had I went with asphalt shingles on both structures and a contractor do the work. Sure it was completed overnight but I've been very happy with the outcome. And it looks good.
Did you use a radiant barrier with gap?
10 years ago I replaced my asphalt shingle roof with stone-coated steel tile (Metro) in a tile pattern. A British expat in my neighborhood (even after hearing me explain the material) calls mine "the house with the lovely slate roof". I was able to get a low-e color that reflects even more heat away, plus the benefit of the air gap and an additional radiant barrier on the deck below it. We have had 3 or 4 massive hailstorms since & my roof is fine--looks great and no problems at all. Everyone else has had their asphalt shingle roofs replaced at least twice. Moreover, you can stand to be in the attic in summertime & my electric bill was cut by almost 2/3! And I got a 25% homeowner's insurance discount. Yes, it was 3x the price of an asphalt shingle roof. But it has (by my accounting) paid itself off and I still have 40-years of life in it that I'm absolutely certain I will get. The only downside to it has been that it is difficult to walk & contractors must know what they are doing to not deform the tiles if they have to get up on the roof (must walk on the front edge like clay tile, as it is on battens). I absolutely recommend it.
My next home will have a metal roof.
@@trinitytoo That's not too difficult if they use a roof ladder. It has "hooks" that loop over the peak and you can walk up the ladder while it lays on the roofing with no issues, regardless of the pitch. We use them in the fire service to climb steep roofs. Newer contractor ones have wheels along the beams on the side opposite the "hook & pad" on the opposite side, so they roll it up the roof, then flip it over onto the other side to hook the peak of the roof. Good example in this photo: lordhire.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2018/07/001060.jpg
@@trinitytoo You need to find better sweeps.
@@trinitytoo don't they have roof ladders? I don't do that sort of stuff, but I would use some sort of ladder on a roof of that pitch.
@@REALfish1552 I am an electrician and I can see a use for this ladder or roof walker as I would call it.
The airflow through a metal roof during warm times draws air from the lower area outside and lets it escape from the roof top, which is a huge advantage in keeping it cool. I hope the more modern designs keep that thermo-dynamic in mind.
My roof is directly on the sheathing so no airflow. I still benefit because the lighter color reflects the sun and the metal isnt a heat sink like asphalt. People say metal roofs cost too much but Over the long haul they are much cheaper because they last longer and they make the home easier to keep cool.
@@alumniduck question... do you have a vent on top of your metal roof? they told me i didn't need it. Im thinking i do.
@@2024harley
Most, of not all local building codes requires roof vents. If you have the little vents spaced out on the roof you most likely are up to code. If not then you most likely need vents installed. When I redid my roof I took out all the smaller vents which in reality were not doing me much good as their placement made for a lot of trapped hot air in my attic. A continuous roof vent is what I added and it did wonders for improving the air flow in my attic. Your roof may differ. Additionally, make sure you are asking apples to apples. What is required by code vs adding more vents for better ventilation. Lastly, some builders/roofers really know their stuff, others just want to do a quick job doing what they know and then get out as fast as possible and get to the next job. You are going to deal with the results for years, if not decades, so make sure it is done right the first time. It cost a lot more to change/alter the roof after the fact. Just to be clear, I wanted less holes on my roof and better airflow and for me that meant a continuous roof vent.
All roofs require airflow regardless of latitude and construction material. In the south, you want the hottest air cycling up and out the top pulling in cooler air at the bottom to help promote cooling. The same is true in cold climates. In Cold climates it is important to keep the roof cool to avoid destructive ice buildup and condensation. Venting any heated air out the top of the roof, allows cooler air into the roof's airspace avoiding winter melt and consequential ice build up. So regardless of what material type your roof is made from, air space is a very important part of roof construction.
Depends on whether you have a vented or unvented roof. Some metal roofs are on firring and there is no venting under the sheathing. Don't hire someone if you don't trust them. Any contractor is making decisions you likely won't understand. You need someone trustworthy.
As a child sleeping in the attic I loved the sound or rain on the roof. That noise is very quieting to this day.
I grew up n Florida mostly under tin roofs without ceilings. The sound of rain on those roofs still lull me to an incredibly luxurious sleep to this day. With my newer insulated roof with a ceiling I am planning a small, say 2' by 2' tin panel on a stand on the roof with a microphone under it connected to a speaker on my bedroom ceiling to this day. Of course this is a reminder of the peaceful days of a childhood in a rural area.
Helps with relaxation and sleep, so sign me up 🤣
Ooh, I do not like the sound. However, if I am assured that a metal roof is much more likely not to leak, then I might learn to ignore or accept it.
One thing I do not like about metal, is how snow slides off of it. Not aesthetically pleasing. I like to see the snow naturally melt off. However, snow sliding off isn't necessarily a bad thing?
@@yosefmacgruber1920 A lot of my pleasure in the sound stems from a childhood feeling of safety and comfort in a warm bed while outside the rain is pouring down and thunder is booming, knowing you are perfectly safe.
@@bitsnpieces11
Sometimes I sort of like to just "enjoy the nature" and not turn on any lights until it become really dark. I can just watch the rain, if I do not have to go anywhere that day. But I do not like the rain, because I think that the old decaying roof will leak or the basement flood.
Maybe if cheaply-built houses were built more like sturdy _Star Trek_ spaceships, I might feel more like you. But we have had different experiences.
Have a house acquired in the mid-'60s that is three blocks from the ocean. Shake roof rotted out in a decade. Replaced with a tile-look metal roof. Fifty years and the roof is still fine.
Wow.
I build on the north Atlantic coast, USA. The classic "beach shack" look uses cedar shakes, but everyone's moving away from them, even for siding, and replacing them with cedar-look vinyl for the same reasons. The salt air is hell for pretty much everything, but the plastic survives.
I didn't know that metal could hold up, honestly. It's so corrosive on the beach, even most aluminum rots through after a while. Thanks for the tip.
i work on a multi building near ocean and metal is destroyed even aluminum the steel is all rusted its from the 70s and will need to be torn downn soon
How has the color of the metal roof held up?
@@samfish6938 Of course steel from the '70s is rusted. That's like 50 years. It needs to be maintained -- rust arresters and paint.
Thanks, so much, for this video. The information and concerns you've addressed here goes a long way to answering pretty much all questions I had about metal roofing.
One thing to note - Environmental impact on your property for asphalt vs metal: I had an asphalt roof replaced on my home a couple of years back after a high wind storm ripped through our area. The next SEVERAL rains after the new shingles were installed generated a whole lot of yellowed, oil-contaminated water runoff and absolutely crippled the plants our garden, most of which are grown for food, for well over a year. My plants are back to a more normal growth state now but I would not have even considered replacement with asphalt if I had been aware of the possibility for long-term contamination of my property.
Thank You. On our farm we have several buildings with metal roofs that are 60 years old or more and they are just as effective as they were when new
That's what I'm hoping for
Hey Matt,
I haven’t been able to be on your channel for several months due to severe illness.
What a perfect video to return to you and your channel as a retired General Contractor myself and installing many metal roofs myself solar is the one major question I have had in my mind while deciding how I wanted to handle it.
You have given me the answers I need instead of a ground mounting system like I was going to use you brought up the newer clips that’s my answer now i can install on the roof and save my yard from that big nasty ground mount.
THANKS!!
I am an old time carpenter that just isn’t fast to change into the newer stuff always you and I have had limited discussions on this subject in the past that being said I haven’t ever had a noise complaint from the couple hundred metal roofs my company installed over the years.
Anyway I enjoyed another fine video from you keep up the great work!
I’m a retired GC (72 yrs) who started out as a framer in the late 60’s…no nail guns around…
…I too enjoy seeing the transitions to fiber-cement siding, metal roofing, PEX plumbing, foam insulation, post-tension slabs, hi efficiency HVAC, solar panels, on-demand hot water. Great innovations and interesting comparisons to the “old days”!
I agree with your method about adding solar: wiring and prepping it during construction is easier and cheaper in the long run. And using that first year's worth of power bills is the best way to size the system 👍
My one concern about sizing a system based on current usage is that usage is likely to grow. Up until this year I used around 5MWh a year and by that measure I've way overspecced my PV system. The modeling software had me using 25% of the power I generate.
However I hooked a 10kWh battery pack to the system and I switched from oil heating to a heat pump and from a petrol car to an EV.
I'm six months in and I'm on track to use around 97% of what I generate and use around 12 to 15 MWh of energy. Of that, around 40% will come from the grid.
PV panels in my case will have little effect on my electricity bill. But what they will do is remove €2,500 in oil bills and €3,000 in petrol purchases per year.
@@KevinLyda Sounds like your system is properly sized now. I think the 1-year baseline is a good place to start. Adding more panels as needs change is always an option.
A decade ago or so, Uni-Solar sold an adhesive backed, thin film solar pv strip that was designed to integrate directly on 16" o.c., flat pan roofing.
@@martshearer498 I like to see new pv products in the market. But for my money, I think the modular panels are still the way to go. It's cheaper, proven for durability and longevity, and allow heat to vent away from the roof. Plus they're easy to remove/replace and still maintain value for a growing used PV market.
I am going to go with a solar carport for my install I think it has advantages if your build space/Lot has room.
Great video. I built a log home last year and we chose a metal roof. I’m happy with that decision so far.
I've been considering a metal roof for quite a while but my wife has always thought a shingle roof was better. Most of the shops I have worked in had metal roof and siding. Snow never built up on the roof and rain just bounced off the siding. If she wants maintenance free, metal is the way to go. Neighbors are not a concern at all. We are building on our 30 acre property well out of view of the neighbors and the road. Now if I can just convince her of the benefits of a metal roof. Thanks for sharing the information!
I had a dark brown metal roof put on mine and it is beautiful and i can barely hear it rain. it has a 40 yr lifetime
Good call, son of the blacksmith. I went with a copper shingle roof from Zappone (Portland, Or), and have had zero problems. The only problems encountered were that my neighbors thought it would blind them (look at a copper penny, they are usually brown after a couple of weeks, it'll turn faster if you mop it in coffee), the city thought it would cause heavy metal pollution due to runoff (we drip onto dirt, though it does make a green drip line on concrete, so any heavy metals just go into the soil. The plants haven't noticed any effects in 20 years), and it's like flashing your entire roof, so it takes a while to tailor everything to fit. Copper is unique in that it can have corrosion problems with steel or stainless fasteners, so use copper or brass fasteners. The aluminum brackets for solar panels will also get attacked. The good thing is that you will probably never have to replace your roof.
My husband moved into our current house in 1974, it had a metal roof. Since that time it's been resealed, had a couple panels replaced, and had the screws redone. I had lived all my life in a shingled roof house. I will never do that again. This roof has been tough as I could ask. We had trees come down all over the neighborhood and most people had trees inside their house. Our metal roof held up in spite of the fact that it shook the house when it came down, and we simply had to replace a couple panels and have it resealed. It was amazing. Because it was built so long aga, we do have a light sound when it rains hard but it's not loud and I find it relaxing. Great video, blessings.
I didn't know about the solar clamps, thanks for sharing!
I installed (DYI) a Decra Shake, stone coated steel roof, in the late 90's. It still looks great. No leaks, hail damage or frost damage. It has survived several 110+ mph wind storms.
I believe it will out last me.
I wouldn't even consider an asphalt roof.
Great Video Matt!
Having worked in a building with a metal roof the following was true. If you had a finished ceiling over the space you did not hear the precipitation. If you were in an area with just the purlins framing and blanket insulation you did hear the precipitation. Thanks for the great information.
I can also confirm that level of long-term performance from the Decra stone coated roof tiles, manufactured in New Zealand.
In Tanzania there are Decra roofs right on the coast line and they were installed in the mid-90s, and they are still perfect after 25 years. The quality is astonishing.
Installed the Decra tile style roof in '87 and is still going strong. It's actually QUIETER that the double layer of asphalt shingle it replaced. Go figure... I never know when it rains. Installed solar last year with no problems but you must choose a proper solar company with experience on these types of roofs. Several companies didn't even bother to quote because they didn't know how to work with this type of roof. Sad...
Most of the roofs in Finland are metal. Lots of manufacturers and different variations. They typically last 40- 50 years in harsh climate; frost, snow, ice in the winter, hot summers with temperatures to 95 F. I had my roof done some 25 years ago, "snap lock" type. Factory paint is still good, no maintenance needed at all. Yes I can hear the rain if it rains hard, but I´m so used to it that it doesn´t bother me. Get a metal roof and you can forget it for the next 40 years.
What do you think about Tesla Solar roof ?
My house is nearly 70 years old and most old Australian houses had a Corrugated iron roof, its still ok although rusty looking, it gets noisy in heavy rain and very loud in hail especially if you are in the ceiling cavity. I dont mind listening to the rain when in bed, it a gentle rainfall right now.
@@michaelchu328 stay way way way far away from the tesla solar roof. Imagine trying to find replacement parts or a competent roofer 20 years from now. Get a seamed roof, use S5 clamps like Matt said and use anyone other than Freedom Forever & Tesla (unsurprisingly they are partners) both do terrible work.
Find a contractor that uses Aptos or Solaria panels, IQ -8 micro inverters, Enphase batteries and “Span” main electrical panels & car chargers. You can get a brand new roof 50+ year roof and all the stuff listed along with the best solar equipment in the game that will look and work amazingly well for a very long time and not chock full of bespoke, incredibly hard to work on stuff you’re surely going to regret owning
I wouldn't tell anyone to stay away from the tesla roof for those reasons. Their tiles are made from tempered glass that is a lot more durable than, and will certainly outlast a metal roof, from a materials science perspective.
The only questions with the tesla roof is how long will it take them to install it and how long the solar cells will last. Last I checked though, their tiles cost about the same as slate and last longer, so even if the PV cells stop working, you'd never absolutely have to replace them. You could leave them and throw normal PV panels on if Tesla disappeared and you had to. Not the same price range as metal, but worth considering if you're looking at slate or clay tile.
I have a stone coated, metal tile roof. When I tried to have solar panels put on it, I had 2 companies void the contract after their installation department found out what my roof was. One of those companies, even went so far, as to suggest that I replace the section of the roof that would be right under the panels, with asphalt shingles. I told them to kick rocks.
Eventually, I found a solar company, that are also roofers. They were able to do the job. They have a 'U' shaped bracket. They remove a shingle, screw the bracket to the roof deck with one leg of the 'U' laying down, then reinstall the shingle, in between the legs of the U. They mounted their support rails to the 'U's, then the panels to the support brackets.
That is a great setup, that doesn't involve any penetrations of my roof, but apparently, there are quite a few solar installers that are not yet aware of it.
One thing I would add is that a metal roof (especially a standing-seam) isn't going to be damaged by heat buildup, underneath, like an EPDM or asphalt roof would be.
I live in Queensland where most houses have had corrugated metal roofs for over 40 years. They are the only common residential rood type that qualifies for cyclone rating but they are in fact noisy in hard rain and hail. There are ways to reduce the noise but since most builders cut every corner they can get away with here nobody does them.
I prefer a continuous structure roof but it cost a lot more and I have no intent to pay someone to build a stick frame house.
Asphalt shingles sound weird and very heavy with all that sand and gravel, also there are days when they would melt here. Yes, there are days when the bitumen in the road surface becomes fluid again due to the heat here.
There is a 10+hour video on youtube of rain on an aluminum roof, I missed it when I left the home I lived in as a kid for a while, it still doesn't bother me, I know when my Mom finally built a house, she missed it, that's when I found the video for her. Some people must like it :)
In Texas, because roofing contractors are quite commonly scam artists, they use cheap asphalt shingles that will leave a footprint if you walk on them in the heat!!
Asphalt shingles are actually light weight and are nailed to a plywood substrate. It's not the roof you want in QLD though, stick with colorbond roofing painted white to reflect the heat and your good for 50 years mate.
We were looking at solar for our build and they recommended metal over other options. I'm a big supporter of metal roofs. Thanks for another great video.
Very intrigued by the process that they fasten solar panels to with. What happens when the installer uses 1x4 fur strips over the shingles and they have a select few screwlines? Do they seal in between their bracket and the roof? Does that sealant ever come off again?
@@calebz1448 there are several ways to mount solar panels to a shingle roof. The best involve galvanized plate flashing along with a liquid applied sealer both in the holes andunder the flashing as well as a UV rated tape like you might see on zip sheathing in matts videos
I fully support the use of a standing seam or other seamed roof with solar. Itll be far easier to install, maintain and remove and replace in the future.
- a solar company owner who’s overseen > 30,000 installs
@@mattbrew11 I'm sorry I see I worded my response poorly. My question is attaching said solar panels to a steel roof especially a standing seam(hidden fastener?) roof with what kind of clips? When I do residential steel (exposed fastener) we lay over shingles if they have 1 layer but we use 1x4 fur boards that leave nowhere to fasten solar panels except screwlines every 30 inches. We plan out any brackets for things like tv dishes and add a block of plywood or 6 boards butted for a platform to fasten to. As a roofer I also know that whatever attaches the solar panel to a steel roofing panel with an exposed fastener is a high leak potential that goes up as times goes on regardless of sealant
@@mattbrew11 I've seen geocel go bad after 4 years in the sun on a 5/16 bead. Only sealant I've ever seen stand the test of time with steel is butyl or mastic whatever you want to call it I've pulled a camper window out from the 60s with tacky tape still sealing where the sun didn't hit it. We use that inside every panel seam on flat(
As a professional solar installer/electrician, I love doing metal roofs. They take a third to a half of the time to install on!
I was wondering how solar was over metal, thanks.
I’m familiar with the S-5! Clamp system. What about doing solar on the metal shingle roof systems? Is that essentially the same as installing on a shingle roof with penetrations and silicone boots?
Here in South Africa we have a lot of metal roofs. But also a lot of concrete tiles roof. Those last forever and are the cheapest roofs here. Asphalt roofs does not last in our sun. Natural stone slate are used on expensive houses.
1:12 min I had exposed face fastener problem where gaskets were deteriorated and caused sporadic leaks. I ended up using a spray on Polyprene coating on the roof. These super adhesive and flexible products are primarily for metal roofs and seal all the leaky screws. Topps Products is what I used but there are others.
Good point
"Corrugated iron" is the traditional metal roof in Australia. Comes in many different colors these days. I love the sound of rain on a metal roof. I suppose it would become bothersome if it rains a lot.
Corrugated iron is long dead it's all Zincalume nowadays and technically only colorbond comes in colors.
@@louiscypher4186 The product is dead, not the term, hence the quotation marks. Plenty of people still use the term "corrugated iron", to refer to the classic corrugated profile. Some people still call it a "tin roof", now that is an old term. Zincalume refers to the trademark coating, technically it is zincalume coated steel roof, it is equivalent to galvanized steel roof and looks exactly the same. Colorbond is a different trademark coating, but still it is colorbond coated steel.
@@jumboegg5845 we still call it tin roof here sometimes in NZ too. But yea Tin plated steel isn't used anymore because it rusts when scratched.
@@jumboegg5845 I love mine in FNQ. Strong and maintenance free, and collects all my water.
@@gerryhouska2859 Mine too in Newcastle.
My favorite room in my grandmother's house was the upstairs bedroom. I could hear the sound of the rain on her metal roof. I've always loved that sound, it would put to sleep. She of course had the old fashion tin roof.
Yep-you only 'hear' a metal roof in old farmhouses that have no insulation-like my grandparent's. With one fireplace and a wood-burning stove in the kitchen for heat, how they survived and raised 9 kids without freezing to death in winter is beyond me. Of course, people were much tougher back then...
@@snuffysmiff I'm thinking grandma actually gave birth to 13 kids, but then 9 survived.
@@snuffysmiff Ditto, P I , mine Grandma had 9 chiln, 8 boys 1 girl ! Farming at Parkes !
I just did a pseudo “Risinger roof” on my 1980s piece of junk house. Re-sheathed in Zip R, wooden purlins, membrane covered the purlins, and face screwed 5v gavalume down. Sure, it’s less elegant than standing seam, but with the installation I get all the benefits and arrest the maintenance of failing gaskets since there’s an air gap between the Zip and metal. And it cost me 1/2 of a standing seam. Just sprayed the underside today with 3” of closed cell. Excited to measure the electricity changes and comfort for the first time in 17 years of ownership.
What membrane did you put over the Purlin? Was it difficult to adhere the membrane over all the purlin faces?
Tx for description. Question, the ' purplish You say, are they like a batten fixed onto the zip and then attach roofing to the battens? Tx Stephen
I used 1x4 kiln dried, cheap slats. The membrane was ice/water shield. It stuck to the slats like glue. The air gap between the metal and Zip allows for air drying of the wood and wicking of any moisture in the future from a failed nail gasket. The purlins were screwed through the Zip into the rafters with 2” wood screws.
I just felt that it resolved the downside of face screwing metal panels onto the house, and took advantage of the rain screen/Zip approach to prevent the metal from intimate contact to the house.
@@cj-ef1rp Very Interesting. I have had this question come up a few times. Cover the entire roof deck with ice/water shield membrane, then cover with metal roof. If so, do you need to be concerned about the metal roof "sticking" to the membrane during expansion and contraction? And do you need purlins vs fastening straight to the roof deck?
I'm completely sold on metal roofs. I had one on a huge home in western NY and I wish I had put it on sooner.
Concerning lightening...
The surface area of metal roof actually spread the electrons over the entire roof making the danger of fire or shock even less than a simple lightening rod on an asphalt roof. In fact, you might feel a slight shock if you were touching a rain gutter when the lightening strikes.
Great video! I love the slate look option. Incredibly sharp!
Loved the metal roof with the Slate look!
So round here in the north, metal is about the same price as asphalt unless you want a specialty metal (anything other then Americana (standard corrugated profile))
And as far as life of the metal goes, maintenance is key and when it starts to rust it can be painted.
The washered screws, I have seen them loosen but never had to replace worn out gaskets. But not all screws are the same.
And the paint for that roofing can add a cooling factor too, so that is always a big plus.
Yep, and alot of people don't even realize those screws are actually a consumable product and subject to maintainance.
In heavy UV areas they need checked every few years and might need replacing as early as 5 yrs but likely 8-10 yrs.
Same with the finish needed tending to. Any growth on them should be cleaned and not by walking on the roof with a broom and a hose.
A friend that does the Carolina Carports for 20+ yrs, says #1 rule every new owner should follow....Stay off the roof if at all possible.
Anyway...everybody Take care of roof maintainance. 👍👌
I live in a house built in 1979 in FL with a metal roof. I am going to replace it either this year or next, so this show was very informative. Having lived through hurricanes, high winds and severe rain situations, this roof has been a trooper. We did get struck by lightning, but no damage at all. I will never have any other type of roof.
So, why are you replacing the roof?
@@indikaGreat The roof was a shoddy DIY project from the last owners .. There is a covered front porch that leaks at the "bend" where roof meets porch. The porch metal should have been shoved under the roof section by 10-12". It's about 2-3 inches, which causes water to blow up under that and run down the inside of the porch. Hope that makes sense. I have a wood stove and the vent on the roof was held together with big blobs of sealant. It was just a bad job. The metal is still good and we will reuse that at some point. But this roof has to go.
Not reflective depends on the type of metal. Years ago I was a sheetmetal apprentice at Savannah River Nuclear and we were tasked with putting up an extension on the pipe fitters shop. We used standard industrial galvanized roofing. Several thousand square feet and a couple of weeks later we finished. But not after getting the first and only sunburn - on the underside of my chin.
Good One! The "proof" is, as they say, In the pudding....
As always, you are spot on. The thing you did miss, is the fact that metal roofs can also allow you an external attic or cathedral roof cooling sink. When you put the metal roof on, you can install the metal roof above the ridged, reflective insulation boards with small spacers above the insulation. This creates a positive air-flow to draw heat away from the attic or cathedral ceiling. If the heat has a way to escape before it enters the home, you have less cost in cooling your home. This is only a good fix in an area without high winds or high chance of wild fires. All you need, is 1/8” to allow a massive amount of air to flow.
Does the metal roof then become like the skin of a drum head? How badly does it dimple in a hailstorm?
I have a large house with a multitude of roof forms...gambrel and regular sloping, plus deck covering. Living in a high wind area I have had to deal with conventional shingle repair. When faced with a complete, new build, the use of metal was a no brainer. The only noise I get from rain is when rain drips from the roof onto small overhang metal roof areas. I have a standing seam roof and I am very happy with it.
I have 9" of insulation in my roof, and when it rained the first time after I put on my "snap lock" metal roof, I thought it was the rain of the century. But now I like the sound it makes. I was able to put the 16 foot panels on all by myself on a 10/12 pitch roof. It would have killed me to have had to lug up all the bundles of three tab. I also like the fact that the roof is almost dry after the rain stops. The asphalt roof would stay damp for days. I got a discount from my home ins for having the metal roof too. I have five buildings now with metal roofs that I put on all by myself. I will never have to put another roof on my buildings for the rest of my life.
Ian a Australian we invented metal deck roofing we think US house roofs safe a joke
Im not a roofer. We had a bad winter last year and a tree hit a corner of my log home, an old log home. Thinking of doing it ourselves. Last time I roofed was 45 years ago and it was comp. Think I should attempt this?
@@tomsavasta2750 When I thought of trying to haul Comp up on a 10/12 roof; metal was an easy choice. It goes on easy. Just do a go prep job. I've done house, car port, barn, wood shed, and equipment shed all by myself and i was between 70 and 74 when I did them.
@@tomsavasta2750 I would hire it out so someone can inspect your roof as it is and inform you of any advantages to going back with replacement colors from differing manufacturers. Fastening through the high rib is no longer the approved technique and I've seen a lot of new construction done completely wrong that voids the warranty
@@bigwheelsturning that might be okay at that age for a car port or other things that you can make perfectly square before roofing but remodeling old homes especially log cabins you will find a crooked eave or rake will make hard work stretching or shrinking steel roofing on any pitch over a 6/12 unless you cover the sawtooth with gutters. Not to mention if there is a pitch change with gambrell
8:42 "Metal roofs are loud when it's raining"
We have few different materials for roofs here so from my experience with them over the last 15 years:
Thin materials in general can be loud, like PVC sheets and metal, because they can start to oscillate from the rain drops. And this can be completely compensated with how they are installed. Insulation makes for a great sound dampener, installing it on wood also helps quite a bit.
But most importantly: The more fasteners you use, the better (especially on overhangs)! Every fastener prevents that part of the roof from oscillating and making noise, so don't cheap out on those!
I like the sound.
My metal roof is quieter than the original, but they put a barrier material on prior to the metal roof material and my cell service is not shielded.
@@ccaptnkid I also never had any shielding effect. There is plenty of signal coming through the walls.
I love hearing the rain
Being a remodel/renovation contractor, myself, I have installed numerous metal roofs in place of asphalt shingles. I highly recommend it to my clients. Once I explain all of the benefits & potential money savings to the customer, it’s a “no-brained” for them. I really enjoyed the videos that you produced on the installation on your home. Very informative-I’ve actually used those vids, when explaining what we were going to do on the jobsite. Thanks for the great content-love the BUILD show👍
Once again, great video! Metal roofs are without a doubt louder, the thing is with building codes today, there is so much mass and insulation, of course it won't be any louder unless say the windows were open on a dormer or something. Then the noise serves as a warning to close the windows during a storm. Win Win. In Alaska many have switched to metal as well. Snow comes off easy, and they last way longer. As you may have guesses shipping to remote areas can get spendy and shipping and installing once every 50 years is better than twice! Cleaning them can be a challenge but nothing that can't be handled creatively! We used two wooden ladders on each side of the peak attached to each other by rope and up we went to clean grandpas metal roof every 10 years or so.
Great video, my issue has been repair work, like seams around skylights. Also, the roof is slick as heck, fortunately I put my tractor as a safety, I slid into the bucket. Is that just metal or is there a shoe? Was using a good grip skateboarding shoe. Leaks are a big deal, do I need to replace screws? Too late? Or blob goo on them
A lot of beautiful options here. As one of Michigan‘s top solar professionals at The Green Panel though, I can’t help to mention compatibility. Depending on the application, a few of these may not be a good choice if homeowners are looking to add solar to their roof.
If you are looking to add solar, definitely take Matt’s advice with S-5 clamps and standing seam style metal roof.
Heat is also an issue.
Evan, for stone coated metal tile roof, they make a 'U' shaped bracket, that sits above and below the shingle. The shingle is removed temporarily to install the bracket. The support runners that the panels connect to, attach to those brackets. Apparently, not a lot of solar installers are yet aware of these. When I had solar panels put on my home, 2 companies voided my contract, and said that they couldn't install on my roof, once their installation department found out what my roof is. The third time was the charm.
@@123bentbrent interesting! Thanks!
@@123bentbrent Little help here, what was the name of the 3ed company?
Right on, Matt! After reviewing a variety of roofing options we decided on a Boral Stone Coated Steel roof in a tile look. It was very labor intense but the result is stunning and we expect a long life out of the 50 year warranted material. An added benefit for us was the option to install it as a cold roof application. That made an enormous difference with heat transfer through the deck in direct sun exposure. Come check it out the next time you're in the DFW area!
Was the cold roof an insulator that also repels heat?
What is DFW area?
@@martinmartin6300 Dallas/Fort Worth.
They also have an airport called DFW.
@@thisismagacountry1318 No, it is a vented over roof with an additional air buffer between the roofing and the deck, allowing for the heat in the roofing material to be vented out the top instead of transferring through the roof deck into the attic. Building Science has articles about it.
@@literalsweatequity So kind of like a double hulled ship then, with a vent ridge at the top for hot air?
Love to sound of rain on the roof, and here in New Zealand most metal roofed houses allow the sound of the rain through. The difference is that the metal roof is attached to battens that are attached to the roof truss's. We don't have OSB or plywood generally directly under our roof.
No, but it is good to have a foil blanket insulation under the Colourbond. Cuts the noise but more importantly keeps the heat out and the warmth in ! ( Oh, other way around for you Kiwis ! )
@@linmal2242 Mostly here in New Zealand our roof insulation layer is directly above the ceiling rather than just under the roof. Hope this makes sense.
We have a galv-alum “M-Panel” metal roof here at the weekend ranch in Texas, south of DFW are. Was apparently installed in 2000 by previous owners. We get a discount on our insurance and never hear the rain because we added spray foam insulation underneath the rafters throughout the 100-year old structure. All-electric C/C & heat in 3600sqft
and highest electric bill around $200 in 103 degree heat or 10-20 degree cold in winter.
@ 10:00, this comment will also harken back to the other myths and some others ...
So we out 50 yr architectural shingles on our house 21 years ago and we looked into metal. Just metal was cheaper, upgrade thickness...still cheaper. But, once you do some of what had come out a couple years prior as in more durable finishes and the mat finishes and when you add the quite backing (a factory applied...like a spray on) and then say hidden fasteners and such and then you gotta get hurricane rated too, then you are at or above the highest premium roofs (tile, slate etc..) and headed to double my 50yr.
21 years later and 15+ major Midwest storms and 3 tornados down our street and just a couple shingles and about 20 feet of ridge cap [20yr 3 tab shingle) needed replaces as they blew away from a tornado that took a stick built shed with 2 riding mowers and about 800lbs of other yard equipt. and a prefab shed full of crap and they were right next to the house. Our neighbors have reshingled their 20yr shingled roof and next to him a new metal roof. The metal was premium but not top of the line.
I guess the point is that a metal roof CAN be cheaper, if using middle of the road stuff. But it can also be nutty expensive to where you may say, "shoot why not just do slate or tile" as that would be different as most don't go there (here in the midwest) and still have a 50yr roof.
I say Bunk on the just as expensive comment because compared to 20 yr 3 tab shingle like 90% of Americans have, metal is more expensive even if you don't get the noise abatement, upgraded thickness, and premium coating.
Also, at my brothers house with metal roof we don't get cell signal unless close to an outer wall.
Sorry such a long comment
This was excellent! The 2 things I didn't hear, in this video were * Extreme heat, yup I know Austin gets warm, I'm in Mesa, AZ (E Phoenix) where its routinely 105-120F during the summer. * OK for mobile/manufactured homes. Thanks a lot, Safe Travels!
Hey Matt... I live in a 1890s Acadian cottage with a corrugated metal roof. I got a good laugh when you mentioned the severe weather myth. August 29th 2021 Hurricane Ida came calling. I live 1/4 mile from an Airport. 116 MPH winds with gusts of 138 were recorded. Zero roof damage.
Wow!
Love a good metal roof. Metal is probably the most common option here in NZ for roofing and it's a fairly popular option for cladding too!
Like the way the Kiwis and Aussies always innovate in the building materials arena. Practical and functional are the key principles. The States finally adopted Australian fiber-cement siding (HardiPlank) as the standard…after years of insisting that Masonite resin-fiber siding was “sufficient”.
Nobody uses Masonite on new construction these days. You can see the rotting Masonite facia and siding on the houses built from the 60s-late 80s!
In Australia we use Colourbond roofing lots , generally corrugated and lasts a lifetime , with blanket insulation its awesome .
Great video. I live on the gulf coast and 26g is required in some areas for wind resistance. I install it over 29g anyway as it's not much of an up cost.
I live in the San Francisco Bay Area East Foothill.
A couple of comments:
1. I originally had a concrete tile roof. One of the reasons I changed to a metal roof is that it reduced the weight significantly. Thereby greatly reducing the moment of force exerted by earthquakes. I feel much better living in a house that was engineered for all the weight above and now with a lightweight Roofing place.
2. The roof was installed with foam insulation. My master bedroom has a vaulted ceiling with virtually no space between the ceiling and the roof. However we really do not experience any unusual rain noise.
3. I told the roofer while he was installing the new roof, to make sure that he follows the fastening protocol properly as we have significant winds in this area. During the weekend while the roof was under construction we had such a windstorm and it tore several of the roofing sheets loose and threw him out in the field behind my house. The young man doing the installation pleaded with me not to tell his boss what had happened as it destroyed several of the panels. I told him I would not say anything if he made sure to over secure the roof panels, which he did. As a result, I have not had any wind damage to the roof in the last 20 years.
4. One downside, is that I had two major television antennas in the Attic that I installed while the house was under construction. Once the metal roof was installed, they no longer function properly. However it made no difference as I switch to Cable anyway.
5. Regarding cell phone reception, it does not come in through the roof, it comes in through the walls as it is line-of-sight. So it has no effect from cellphone operation.
6. Extreme Caution must be observed while walking on the roof as the panels will dent easily if not properly walked upon.
The biggest plus for a metal roof in the south is the ability to add a radiant barrier. I have shingles and this is the main plus for doing metal for me.
Radiant barrier is the way to go. Considering doing Sharkskin Ultra Radiant or self adhesive ice and water shield with Ultimate-foil on top, 1” battens on the 45, topped by solar white metal roof secured by hidden fasteners. One of Matt’s videos shows the reflective foil facing down toward the underlayment. This seems totally wrong because I thought the shiny radiant barrier need an air gap. Waiting on Matt or another expert to post a video (or comment) addressing which way to face the shiny side of radiant barrier in this situation.
@@dixiemason99 radiant barrier reflects both ways. First time we installed a reflective radiant barrier underlayment, we called the supplier to verify the plain English instructions to put the shiny side down. Yup. Shiny side down. The radiation it is blocking (reflecting) is not visible and does not require a visually shiny surface.
As you already know, radiant barrier under composition roofing reflects what has already passed through substantial amount of material. If the radiant barrier will reflect it back through the same material (which it does: you'll experience if you install roofing over it) a thin non-slip surface poses no significant obstacle to its reflective abilities.
Again, if the instructions say shiny side up, install it up. If they say down, install it down. If it doesn't say, contact the supplier to verify.
Why can't you do it with shingles? Am less familiar with radiant barrier
@@NickByers-og9cx I'm not 100% certain on this, but I BELIEVE it's because it'll fry the shingles. Radiant barrier requires an air gap to insulate the roofing material. There are some special systems that allow you to use radiant barrier with shingles - they all involve creating an air gap between the roofing material and the radiant barrier - but in general on a standard shingle roof, you can't use a radiant barrier
@@dixiemason99 Polar Wrap (brand) is 3/8" styrofoam ("bead board") with an aluminum ("aluminized" mylar) foil facing which is installed alum. foil side down. The foam provides the "spacing" between the radiant barrier and the roofing metal. And since it, by necessity, it gets walked-on during installation of the metal, the foil isn't damaged. The Polar Wrap allows metal installation over old shingles which represents quite a savings over stripping/hauling-off the old composition roofing materials. Estimates were double for stripped roofing! I use unpainted Galvalume which probably reflects long-wave solar radiation as well as, and perhaps better than white paint and will never develop paint problems. These roofing choices will pay for themselves in energy savings in just a couple of Florida summers. Here we pay for cool, rather than heat....
This may be only a theoretical benefit, but one should consider the "thermal flywheel" effect of the heavy mineral surfacing as well as the weight of the old shingles and under-layment. Leaving the shingles on while the job is being performed prevents interior rain damage and/or having to "tarp" unfinished areas of the roof. The Polar Wrap also allows installers to step anywhere on the roof or "tin" during metal installation, unlike having to step very carefully on just the furring strips. Any "misstep" (between furring strips) WILL wrinkle the tin! (even 26ga.) A wrinkle= a rust spot=a future failure! The resilience of the styrofoam accommodates any surface undulations of the old shingles. Upstairs rooms are noticeably cooler and no audible difference can be discerned even during heavy downpours. Hail might be "different story." But the most noticeable improvement is in having two highly-reflective surfaces facing "ol Sol" rather than black (once white---40 years ago..) shingles. A competent installer will use plenty of fasteners, especially around the perimeters. The metal "comes with" plenty of screws for the job. They're long enough to penetrate tin, foam, old shingles and decking (although they might not penetrate decking with furring strips (which would then depend upon how well the strips were fastened to the decking...) A good installer will use the correct clutch setting on his driver to prevent "dimpling" of the metal (which would eventually create a water problem) yet "snug-up" the gasket-washers on the screws. My advise would be: Go metal an' be DONE WITH IT! I'm certainly no "expert" (but that has never kept me from being opinionated....)
When I used to install solar panels I found metal roofs were our preferred roof. It was much easier and simpler to install them on metal roofs.
Also, other than during ice conditions it was easier and safer to walk on metal rooves. And to be clear during ice conditions its not safe to walk on any type of roof.
Yeah people don't know that shingles can be crazy slick after snow and ice
About 7 years ago I installed a standing seam roof on my house, garage and shed. When I first looked into the cost factor, the decorative asphalt shingles were $8,000. The metal came in at about $11,000. All the materials used under either system was nearly the same, so I went with the metal. Installing the metal was another story. One would think that with all those long panels the job would go quickly. This is true but, for all the finish work and the extra amount of care in the way the flashing was installed, it was just short of being a nightmare. (Time consuming). I had 10 sections on the house to deal with, 5 ridges, and 4 valleys. Not to mention the 3 skylights and 2 chimneys. (Time consuming). As I was not able to devote my entire time to the project, (I have a maintenance and remodeling business to operate), I spent 3 years to complete the project. I could have done the project with shingles in the first year. Now I did make remodeling changes with each step of the project, so there was time spent for that. Added a dormer here, removed a dormer there. Did I mention it was time consuming?
As Matt pointed out about the myths, I hear no more sound when it rains than when I had shingles. The dark red metal reflects more heat in the summer. Though the metal may feel hot when the sun is on it, that heat quickly disappears without the sun. Asphalt shingles on the other hand retain the heat. I did a bit a testing of both surfaces to compare. My only complaint is that where there are trees overhanging, it becomes dirty. Washing it is a bit of a chore. Just a note for anyone in snow prone areas who wants to install a metal roof of any style, snow guards are a must!
it can be time consuming for a person that doesn't do it every day. Ridges are nothing but valleys can be tricky. Now to flash a skylight properly, that's a whole different ball game. The key word was properly. You are absolutely correct on the snow gauds.
I'm concerned with ice dams forming and backing up under the metal roofing and deforming the metal roof. I wonder if this is an issue for others.
Good video. I definitely learned something when you got to 13:12, I had no idea this kind of mounting system existed for solar panels & metal roofs.
But that's pretty slick!
Thank you so much!
Your video here came at a perfect time.
I'm looking to switch from the heavy spanish tile to the metal roofing.
To which I hadn't dug deep enough, yet to know that there is a style of metal that looks like tile. THANKS!
You gave me some more food for thought.
Blessed Day to ya!
Jenn
After we got an insurance settlement for roof damage, we decided the longevity of metal made it well worth the extra cost. My wife chose a deep red steel, and she loves it every time she sees it. We don't notice any louder sound when it rains.
About 50 years ago my Dad & I put a standing seam, tern coated stainless steel, complex shape roof on his house. I'm now 79 and it's going to out last me.
Stainless??? Wow, how much did that cost over a regular galvalume?
@@manstersr 50 years ago, it probably cost 3 cents more per square.
Wow
@@manstersr Price is lost in time but it was a bear to work with. Roof had multiple octagonal sections. All hand tools except for a drill based cutter.
I installed metal roofing in my new build in Wyoming. I used to live in a 40 year old log home in Colorado . It had the original metal roof
Love hearing this
really informative! Thank you! im still trying to research (and assuming it is) if metal is great for living on a mountain in the north of the US AND at what at what "pitch" is best. Current plans are set with a roof at 2 1/2 pitch, but roofer is concerned that it should be at a 3 pitch...which will change the look of the house outside a bit. I've heard that metal roofing in winter weather with a roof pitch at 2 is still good and ok. (?) Heavy snow loads is what I have to be concerned with.
As a construction consultant, This Old Beach House, Inc, I've recommended several metal roofs. One in particular was an Atlantic Ocean beachfront home for a fairly well off client. He previously had asphault shingles (twice) and a standing seam metal roof. We suggested and the homeowner agreed, on a product from Canada called Nailite, (recycled tin and aggregate material). Couldn't be happier, expensive but extremely durable.
I've been doing Metal over 40 years, I think I've installed most kind, to me the best is mechanical standing seam, alot of it is in the Install and the Trim, also becareful when you buy Insurance, they will put a cosmetic Clause and deny Claims because the denting doesn't leak. Metal is awesome though.
Would have liked to hear information regarding signal blocking (cell, radio, tv, etc.) of metal roofs. Good content for what was provided though. Thanks.
We have a arch rib metal covered shop, you have to stand in certain places to get cell connection.
House has Windows.😁
"Won't metal be hotter than asphalt?" That's another one I hear all the time. It's not intuitive but even the darkest metal roofs outperform light colored asphalt shingles on solar reflective index.
Need to create a 1" air gap under the tiles and qualifies for cool roof. Funny that you also follow/listen to Matt - he is the man! Tommy
@@lusoamerican I am aware of that strategy. It has it's pros and cons.
Keep up the good work over there!
ppl forget, metal likes to rid itself of heat as much as it likes to collect it. Asphalt shingles simply collect heat.
Hotter no, but metal is much more thermally conductive and will burn you at a much lower temp.
@@FireStormOOO_ And all that can be overcome with a shirt, jeans, gloves and a good pair of boots if you need to be on it. If this is the only con, it's a win. I have never had an issue on my green metal roof in South Georgia in the summer, but then, I wore the same on the shingles because you'd get road rash if you didn't.
Great episode Matt!!! I'm planning to build my own house in 2 years with a metal roof and solar. I'm researching every aspect of home building. I really enjoy your channel. Keep up the great work!!!!
I have Roser Steel Slate Stone coated steel roof. I bought it 2019, its been a great roof. Yes you can hear the rain but its not bad. It was about double the cost of class 4 asphalt shingles. Kinda the funny thing is I called 3 companies to get quotes, only 1 showed up. I called another, which he was the contractor we picked. We did note that the temp did drop in our house after our asphalt shingles were removed.
It’s crazy to see all other options than a metal roof, over here in Australia a metal roof is default and cheapest option due to being much lighter than tiles. Metal roofs here are loud due to AS roof insulation standard being minimal. I’d trust metal over any other material when I comes to durability and leak potential
Pretty sure that tiles were the default for many years
@@johngreydanus2033 na, Ned Kelly lived under corrugated iron his whole life
@@janeblogs324 that settles that, can't go wrong with an idolized criminal
N K probably lived in the bush, part time, until he got a nice cosy cell in Melbourne gaol,.... Been there!
Question about metal roofs... I live in the Pacific NW and have large cedar and fir trees constantly dropping needless onto my low pitch asphalt roof (ranch style home). I tend to go up and use a leaf blower to clear off the debris, would metal shed the needles easier, and if not, would I have a harder time walking on a metal roof, or risk damaging it? Thanks Matt!
Hi Christian. I can kind of help you out here. Obviously you are still going to get the same amount of debris but it will be easier to clean. Asphalt, cedar and tile are very rough so they tend to catch and hold things. If the roof is installed correctly you can walk on it no problem but a good talking point with your contractor. Not as grippy so be careful. Have your roofer install eyebolts. Get yourself a roofers harness and a decent rope and you'll be safe if used correctly. One thing I would recommend is talking to your contractor about putting zinc strips at the ridges. This will help reduce the mold/moss growth we get here in the PNW. Good luck.
Metal will be less grippy, as Gary states, but it also depends on the pitch (angle, slope, whatever). I have a large chicken coop with corrugated metal roof but low angle, it's under an evergreen and it doesn't shed as much as I'd like. But relatively easy to clean.
I live in the NorthEast and have large pine trees hanging over my newly installed standing seam roof. I've not gone through a whole season yet, but my experience so far has been generally positive when it comes to dealing with the pine needles. First, my roof has a bit of a texture and is not that steep so the needles do stick.... a bit. It doesn't take much from the blower to move them, I can get the roof cleared off in two passes vs the 7 or 8 back and forths I used to do on the asphalt.
That being said what I have noticed and am keeping a close eye on is how the needles get caught under the standing seam. They pop out easily when I angle the blower at the seam, but I feel like the time I saved on not having the multiple passes is being spent on clearing seams.
Damage? The metal sits pretty flat (flush) on the roof deck so I've never go the feeling I could damage it. My initial concerns when I went up for the first time was flattening out the striations that they formed in the panel to mitigate "oil canning". Turns out not to be an issue, the form is so shallow stepping on them doesn't effect them at all. Hope this helps
@@gerrygadget Thanks for the additional info!
@@explorenaked I figured as much with regards to "slippery when wet"! lol Yeah, my main concern is simply not damaging the metal roof. At the very least, my gutter-guards would be doing their job and forcing me to clean them out vs. the roof. I've still got about a decade on my current asphalt shingles (with embedded zinc to help with the moss!), but have lots of time to investigate further. I'll have to check out other metal installs in the area and chat with the homeowners to see what their experience has been like. Thanks for your input!
On new builds, when it comes to solar it's not the roofing material ( brackets for almost anything nowadays) , it is the truss design. Can't tell you how many builders forget to tell the truss company about the possible added load of solar panels ( the truss engineers need to know the added possible load weight).
Yes, good reminder, all you builders and quoters out there !
Living in an area where hailstorms are frequent and can be quite severe I've watched the neighbors replace their roofs many times in the 40 years since the metal roof (which still looks good!) was installed. This is on my church, I've tried many times but have failed to get the HOA to switch to metal roofs and yes the roofs are going to be replaced again this summer because of a series of three intense hailstorms this spring.
I had my asphalt shingled roof replaced with aluminium shingled roof. I'm very happy with it, looks like the day it was installed after 8 years. It bears a 50 year warranty. One thing you have to know: very hard rain is heard inside as the water droplets hit the metal, it's no problem for me, even if I have very thick fibreglass insulation in my attic (18 inches). In the winter snow does not stay on the roof very long, that's nice but when it all comes down at the same time you have an avalanche, even worse if there is an ice crust on that snow, it could be lethal, you must have snow shields installed otherwise you might get sued by your mailman if the pitch is over the entrance.
A warranty is bullturds..I was at sales meetings.. Companies use it to sell then go belly up change name to avoid warranty.. Its their business model... YES it is.. Vinyl windows are a prime example.. even just changing the business name means warranty is gone.... Its just a busines..money etc.. Aint reality grand..
@@peter-pg5yc You are right, but I'm not naive to swallow that crap. At the most I see this as a sign the company figures it's of a good enough quality to last long enough they don't risk a ton of claims in the next few years. The life of most small manufacturing companies is around 15 years.
When I was considering a metal roof, the cost of having a pro do it was prohibitive for me. So, I decided to buy the materials and install it myself. The metal company I bought the materials from was very helpful in my selections. The consultant from the roofing company that quoted me recommended that I leave the existing shingles in place for sound insulation. I can't hear anything from the roof when it's raining. Only rain sound I hear is from the air conditioners in the windows.
That, leaving the shingles, would be good if the fixings and rafters/are sound. I assume you checked.
@@linmal2242 A "spot check" in several suspect locations can tell you a lot about the condition of the decking. The weight of the old composite materials usually isn't a factor, assuming your trusses/rafters are sound.
Yes, customers told me the same thing leave the old roof in place quieter..
Leave the shingles as long as the roof trusses are rated to handle the extra weight.
Metal roofing has come a long way. I would like to see how you deal with roof penetrations, PVC vent pipes 3" & 4", cement block chimney and steel chimney flashing for a 12" steel double wall gas furnace vent.
pvc - deck tight, chimney - step flashing or riglet, for the "B" vent, again deck tight (high heat) any other questions?
You avoid them at all cost. In my case I was able to eliminate all 7 roof penetrations (6 vents and gas furnace exhaust) by combining the sanitary vent stacks in the attic and exiting through the gable end of the house. The gas furnace exhaust was eliminated by removing the gas furnace and switching to mini-split heat pumps.
Oh, and the chimney. In my case I took the chimney down and rebuilt the roof where the notch-out for the chimney was. The chimney was on a gable end wall and intruded into the roof only 6" or so, so it wasn't hard to "fill-in" the roof where the chimney was.
We replaced our asphalt roof after 20 years with a metal roof. The cost of the metal roof was actually less than what the asphalt roof cost.
Where did you purchase the metal for your roof from?
Last 2 years metal has been ridiculous expensive, you got lucky.
quote for me was 2.5x price HDz vs stonecrest
Unlikely
Unless they got exposed fasteners (I doubt it was cheaper but could be close). I recently had to replace my roof, and I initially wanted metal but the exposed fasteners are the only metal product that is comparable to asphalt shingles when it comes to price. But the those fasteners need to be replaced every five years or so and that was a deal breaker for me ( not to mention your installer needs to be good because if those fasteners aren't square or you have issues day 1). I then went in looked into hidden fasteners or seam metal roof and found those to be 4 times more expense then asphalt in my area. In the end it was back to asphalt shingles for me. Metal just wasn't worth it for me exposed fasteners, maintenance nightmare, and hidden type are way too expensive.
Nothing more soothing. Than rain on roof. Puts me to sleep quicker. Thanks
Amen
I’ve been interested in metal roofs for some time. Thanks for the information & great show!
Number 4, noise, metal roofs in sheds/garages/warehouses/etc with no OSB and insulation and ceiling cavity and ceiling below that to isolate you from the noise ARE noisy. But in a house that's properly built, no, not noisy. Concrete tiles, even exposed with nothing between you and them are quiet in the same conditions, though.
As long as the house is properly insulated, yep won't be as noisy overall. But if it's an older home (such as mine, built in 1898) it could definitely be noisy.
The sounds are awesome! The sliding snow crashing down not so much lol
Absolutely, in a pole barn. But put OSB sheathing underneath like you would in a dwelling, and it's largely attenuated. Add insulation, like you have to do just about anywhere, and it's a non-issue.
I just put a metal roof on our house after needing to replace the shingles every ten years from damage. I've got a brother telling me how stupid it was, and how I paid double what a single roof would cost... No noticable noise increase, and it seems cooler upstairs.
Ask your brother what he did with his tuition money for his math courses. Lol
@@wernerdanler2742 what a meth course lol
What's great about metal roofs is that they release the heat they absorb quicker than asphalt roofs. I have two layers on my roof and metal will be my next roof.
Put on a standing seam roof and if installed properly it will outlast the house itself.
My parents have a metal roof from the 80's. In regards to lightning strikes, mum had a lightning strike to the power pole right in front (100m) of her house, amongst taller trees wile her house is out in the open (the shockwave from the transformer exploding 15 mins later from the fire was impressive). Once pice of evendence to back you up.. and with an acual strike, a well grounded roof (if not overly grounded roof) will also minimize damage in my opinion. With the noise from rain, mum and dad dont have inselation and you can very much hear it. Inselation will help with the heat as well as the noise.. 40 years later it is showing rust spots, might have to fix that as there water comes from the roof. Oh and thats a corrugated iron roof i think, the wavy kind.. less the 1km from the beach
With a metal roof you have a "Faraday Cage." Look it up if you don't already know. In the East lightning always comes with rain and any dampness on the walls will conduct the strike to ground. But you could also install ground rods and direct wire to points of roof. Here in Florida the metal suppliers will not warranty their material if installed less than one mile from salt water.
@@theburnhams2925 that salt goes inland farther than1 mile. You can see it in the air just standing on a beach
Tell mum thers no way to effectively ground a roof
Great presentation, you answered all my question plus, you educated me as to all the new innovative options, but I’ve been a fan of metal roofing for years because of the storm damages asphalt roofs suffers, thank you!
I have a simple double wide manufactured home in Northwest Washington State. You know the cheap three tab shingles that surprisingly I was able to keep repaired and patch for almost 24 years before I needed to do any replacement. I had long grown tired after each and every fall and winter windstorms to go up and replace blown off tabs. I finally had the entire roof pulled up and had only a small bit of rot on the underlayment but I had the entire sheet of OSB replaced and then be went with batten strips foam insulation between them and then had then entire roof installed in standing seam with hidden fasteners. As I got older and with balance issues from a inner ear disorder it was great to have to only go up once a year to just check that everything is ok on the the roof. After 7 years I finally notice a bit of the sealant around one roof vent needed replacement and I got the sealant and resealed it but also three cans of wasp killer that had taken up resident in some of the vents. I am happy I went this way low upkeep and no real issues.
As long as you have the tools and understand the work and application, metal is the ultimate DIY roofing. You can literally take days off and do it mid-winter in some of the worst climates. I would not say that the metal roof is more expensive than asphalt in the long run simply because there is no asphalt shingle that will survive as long as the metal and the ones that come close are hideously expensive. Your efficiency and reliability savings are going to far outweigh the price difference. If you ever have to do structural repair or any kind of pull-and-replace work like water damage the metal is going to instantly pay for itself.
In new Zealand by far the most common roof is colour steel roofs. They are cheap and if painted ever 10 years after the first 20 years has passed will easily last well over 50 years.
Just did a full replace of a 50-60s roof on my old house and only cost 12k nz (8k usd) and a team of about 6-8 guys came out and re did the entire thing in a day long run steel is easy cheap and durable.
Matt, I believe you when you say that an insulating layer right under the metal will dampen the sound of rain. But there is one sound it cannot dampen--snow avalanching off the roof. That sound will wake the dead. If you live in serious snow country, get snow brakes on your metal roof. Or prepare to be awakened after death.
Perhaps being awakened after death is desirable!
We have R20 Batts for insulation, and yes it is noisy, rain hail, sun comes out it snaps quite a bit, clouds cover the sun, shaping etc, I believe that is why that side has developed leaks around the exposed screws. I have tried to address them with spray silicone, less leaks but still there. My next plan is perhaps larger screws, or strip the tin off, ( just strapped on 2 ft spacing)boarded it all up, add ice and water shield membrane then put the tin back on with the larger fastners.
This is awesome, didn't know about that style of solar panel mount, that's awesome.
The most popular style of roofing material in Oz is the Custom Orb corrugated roofing in Colourbond finish. This profile is about 2 inches "deep" with each wave or corrugation about 3 inches from peak to peak. This is either nailed or Tek screwed to the roof structure.
A future video about expansion and contraction details for metal roofs would be nice, especially for those of us in temperate northern climates that can easily get 100F temperature swings during the course of the year.
As I said above, my new colourbond roof squeaked gently for about one week until all the screws had settled down in their holes. Could only hear it at night when all the traffic had stopped!
For best results, choose a snap-lock standing seam metal roof with clips to hold the panels in place. The metal panels slide under the clips as they expand when heated and contract when cooled. The panels are fixed to the roof deck or battens along the ridge edge underneath the ridge cap using screws. The eave end of the panels are free to move and are typically retained using a hem (180 degree bend) at the end of the panel that hooks onto a special eave trim that has a protrusion that the hem hooks over. A bit of clearance is built into the connection so that it won't bind under extreme temperature conditions.
You can find out more about this by searching for eave flashing for standing seam roofs.
@@gregben Damn, it's always fun to see a response to a comment I made a year ago or more lol.
We detail standing seam metal roofs somewhat often in the various firms I've worked, so I'm sorta familiar with the system. But thanks for explaining it in details! I work in multi family, so we mostly have flat roof assemblies and I don't get into the weeds detailing other roof types as often as I'd like.
I live in the woods in Washington and I got 10 years from a comp roof. We have plenty of rain and the moss is a killer. I will admit that I did both roofs and I made some mistakes on the first one. Commercial carpenter by trade ill own that I did some things wrong. Did my research and did my metal roof about 5 years ago and couldn't be happier. No noise, no moss build up. My mom asked me at the time what about the next time. It's a 60yr roof and I said I'll be 105 and I won't care !
Any installations changes between 1st and 2nd time? What did you do to prevent moss build up?
What is that goes bad. Does roof actually rust through and dissenagrate? What about the fasteners, specifically the rubber washer under the screw going bad?
@@bradanderson6350 The fasteners last for decades and the rubber washer is nitrile, ditto. If you have to, unlikely, just hop up and replace em. Easy, back em out, screw in a newie!
@@bradanderson6350 The roof won't 'rust through' in your lifetime of living there! How old are you now?
@@bradanderson6350 With colourbond coating, or even zincalume, moss is not a consideration. Or just give it a wash every 5-10 years !
I'd love to use your roofers -- around here (just two hours away), metal roofs are about 4-5x the cost/square compared to nicer asphalt shingles... even replacing them every 15 years, that still gets you quite a bit of mileage...
What??!!! Where are you? Here in British Columbia metal roofing and asphalt shingles are about the same price per square foot. Of course, apples and oranges: there are many models and styles with different prices. You can spend a lot or a little. I never use anything but steel roofing these days.
@@paulmaxwell8851 I'm about two hours east of Matt. IIRC a brand new metal roof is over $900/square (not sq ft, square == 100 sq ft).
Metal is about triple not 4-5x either ur asphalt guy is extremely cheap or metal extremely expensive. In Michigan it’s about 3-500$ per sq for asphalt depending on shingle quality roof cuts and pitch and 9-1250$ for metal
That is with removing an old roof new construction is about 75$ cheaper per sq
@@paulmaxwell8851 Down here in Texas the style of roofs with all the cut up designs actually significantly adds to the labor and the trim material detail compared to Straight Gable Roofs, which are a breeze.
I've installed double-locked standing seam roofs in Maine for many years. For our climate I think it is the best but is quite labor intensive, especially when dealing with valleys, skylights, etc.. If you add sealer to the seams and fabricate valleys with knuckles and sealer pockets it is essentially a membrane when finished which makes it the ultimate solution to winter ice dams which are a huge problem during winters up here. Exposed fasteners metal roofs will always have issues with screw failure no matter how carefull you are when torqeing the screw. Most common failure with them(other than spinning out) is ,because of metal expansion and contraction, the screws will literally unscrew themselves over a period of years. I kid you not , I have seem whole sections of roof with screws un wound from a1/8 to as much as 1/2 an inch. Love your comment about asphault shingle roof warranties, they are such a joke. Fibreglass shingles have had issues since they were first introduced and they haven't fixed the issues yet and I doubt they ever will. Your lucky to get 15 years out of them regardless of warranty around here and every contactor I know has the same opinion. And we don't even get the shingle destroying hot summers that southern climates get.
I find that with hardwood, or even pine battens the screws never move. That 40mm metal top hat style batten though, screws can unwind and become loose.
I love my dark brown metal roof. I had day star lights for installed too, and love them too. I can hear the rain on the newer part of the house and I live it. It reminds got when I was a kid growing up!
The snap lock roofing is resistant to damage from ice dams, here in northern climates (NE Illinois).
Preventive ice damns is what I'm after. Shoveling my low pitch roof is getting old. The cost in the north east is crazy expensive.
@@timsmith3710 Our roof is barely a 3/12 ice dams were a constant problem not now.
Our 16 year old son installed it (Pro-Snap) 14 year ago no leaks!!!
@@monteglover4133 wow that's fantastic I'm going to look into it now. I appreciate the info.
It’s crazy how different places around the world build houses.
@Last Call you ok bro 🤣
@@LifeOfSi I bet they thought you were saying a metal roof is crazy. If you WERE saying that, then of course you're nuts. I took it as, "Hey, houses are SO different all over the world. It's crazy!" Yup. Totally agree. Sometime look at how window trim abutting clapboards are dealt with in the northeast (US) vs the south
@@namedpipes I have a metal roof on my house and it’s super common in Perth Australia to have a “corrugated roof” I have never seen the steel roof that looks like the shingles before as we don’t build shingle roofs.
Insulated metal panels could make roof details simple. Also, there's an advantage to some metal roofing if there's a low slope.
I didn't read all the comments( just to many👍) but I love the sound of a gentle rain 🌧on a tin roof, also if you are collecting rain water for your garden or other uses a asphalt roof leaches oil from them as a tin does not.👍 plus snow slides off a tin roof where asphalt can hold more snow especially a heavy wet snow. Thanks for your video.
Leaves blow off or rinse off in rain better on these roofs too. In Florida anyway where are trees have small leaves i don’t know about up north with big leaves
Here in New Zealand, if you don't put on a lightweight metal roof of some sort, then you are crazy.
Anyone considering tiles is insane.
Who wants 30-tons of concrete or slate sitting above your head, levering your house apart during the next earthquake?
It's been shown NZ ColourSteel has a lifespan in excess of 50 years.
Discussion over!
We had a house in the SF Bay Area that had a concrete roof, the first time I ever thought about that tonnage overhead during a quake was when you mentioned it.
Well said, why needlessly add mass to the building in seismic zones...
Who wants a heavy slate roof? I do. It's common for them to last over 100 years. To each his own.
@@PeterLawton Not in an earthquake zone !
@@linmal2242 Many people live in an earthquake zone, and very many people do not. I knew that. You knew that.
Good video. However, apparently I am the exception to the rule. I just replaced my fiberglass shingled roof after 35 years. So I used similar product in red again as I have a Mediterranean style house. Original plans called for clay tile, but that was waaaay out of my budget. The red shingles mostly accomplishes the look. Not perfect, but looks pretty good.
I live in texas and have had an asphalt shingle roof on a mobile home since 1996 and it's been thru all those summers and weird winters and a tornado in 2006 and should have been replaced long ago. It just costs more than we can afford but it's still doing what it needs to do kinda.
Perfect introduction to metal roof issues! Keep up the great work!
Nice video, but I do have some 'myths/facts' that I would like to get your opinion on...
1. Do metal roofs fade in color fast enough to notice say within 20 years?
2. Do metal roofs rust?
3. What to expect cost and frequency-wise for fastener replacement?
4. Lastly, insurance companies might not give much discount as compared to asphalt, possibly due to lack of experience, but in the end you might not get a good discount?
Thanks! Great job and love your videos.
Mike
OK, i did in home sales in the bay area seeing 2 to 3 customers a day for years and years been all over.. Been in more homes then you ever will, every neighborhood too. So i always asked about the metal roof.. geez most if not all had a leak and a problem.. With the product.. Yes they did. .Its quieter, when installed over the old roofing.. BUT the companies are gone bankrupt or just disappeared.. every company has their own way, tools parts to complete the roof. .They are NOT interchangable or compatable.. NO roofing company will touch their roofs because they do not have the exact parts to repair the leaky roof. .Trees falling earthquakes, fires, you name the calamity.. NO ONE WILL TOUCH THEIR LEAKY ROOF... I have personally talked to these peoples more times then i wanted too.. I lost sales over their having to replace leaky unrepairable metal roof.. The cost factor, and distrust of contracters.. But a leaky roof always comes first.. (think obsolescence what was thought as great then is not now) I do not sell anything i am happily retired.. A regular comp roof is easily repaired, no matter the damage..No special tools or flashing parts needed.. Food for thought..i used to love metal roofs... But reality set in.......