How To Break In a Nitro RC Engine - Part 2 - (Kyosho USA1 part 3)
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- Опубліковано 28 сер 2024
- In this video I will show you how to complete the proper heat cycle break in process for a nitro rc engine. Also bonus footage of the new Kyosho USA1 Nitro Crusher bashing! This is part 2 of the break in video and part 3 of the Kyosho USA 1 videos.
Heat Cycle Break In:
-First 4 tanks of fuel are idle only!
-Warm up engine, idle 1 full tank, let cool down completely with piston at bottom dead center.
-Repeat for tanks 2-4
-Tank 5 warm up engine and drive in a figure 8 applying no more than 1/4 throttle. Let engine cool down completely with piston at bottom dead center
-Tank 6 warm up engine and drive in a figure 8 applying no more than 1/2 throttle. Let engine cool down completely with piston at bottom dead center
-Tank 7 warm up engine and drive in a figure 8 applying no more than 3/4 throttle. Let engine cool down completely with piston at bottom dead center
-Tank 8 and beyond warm up engine and drive normally. Tune engine high speed and low speed needles for best performance while keeping operating temperature of engine between 180 and 210 degrees Fahrenheit
-Always let engine cool with piston at bottom dead center
-Always use after run oil when you are done running the engine
-Always make sure the air filter is clean and secured tightly to the carburetor
Just picked up one of these for the kiddo for Christmas. Thanks for the breaking series as this is my first nitro rc my self! Very informative! I’m excited as I wanted one of these when I was a kid lol, but never got one.
Nice monster truck Ben. You did a good job going over what you need to do with a new engine. It really kicks. Great job. 👍👍
I need to get one of these
Do you do this style of break ins to all of your nitros? It's basically how I did mine years ago to my HPI savages .21 on up to the Ofna's .26/.28's.. I didn't know about the pinch zone at tdc which I will keep in mind. I have two new nitros to break in and will be sure to keep the piston at bdc while cooling.. Your awesome and deserve way more subscribers!
I just subscribed, this could be the most informative video I've seen on this truck for break in. I have a few of them . But, some reason this one seems different.
hi Ben, enjoying your series on the USA-1 you've given a lot of valuable pointers on the break in process
can you go into some more detail soon in terms of exactly what you did to set up the transmission please? perhaps a short video showing how you set up the trans
did you lube the needle bearings as well? with which grease? i know it may seem trivial to someone with 20+ yrs of nitro exp but for us newbies any info you can give would be appreciated especially on a relatively expensive truck like this one which is known to have a poorly set up trans from the factory
cheers!
Hi! Thanks for the support! That's a great idea, I will take the trans out and make a detailed video on how to clean, lubricate and adjust it so it works properly! Keep an eye out in the next couple of days for it to be posted.
I just posted the transmission fix video. The HD (4k) version is still processing but should be available soon. Thanks for the idea and the support!
Ordered mine about a week ago. Looking forward to fixing everything, so its good to go in time for break-in. I ordered shims for the diffs, just in case. Also Hudy's graphite grease for the clutches. Is it any good? I was thinking copper paste first.
Not sure yet if I'm going to purchase steel-gears. Maybe later. Did you have the measurements on The shims/spacers you used?
I'm super psyched for this. Again, thank you for great videos on this topic.
Edit: Gearbox removed and cleaned. 3rd tank idle break-in done yesterday. So far so good. 🤘🏻
Hi mate, from UK, but just bought mine around 3 weeks ago, mines is still running inn, however when I brake the engine stops any ideas thanks.
Hi Ricky, there only one reason it would be stalling when hitting the brakes and that is the idle speed is too low. There could be a few different causes for that tho.. First you want to make sure your radio trim is set properly in the neutral position. Make sure the throttle servo isn't opening the carburetor at all when its in the neutral position. Once you have verified that, your idle speed is too low for one of two reasons: either the low speed needle is set too rich and needs to be leaned, OR the idle screw needs to be adjusted to raise the idle speed. There is an easy way to tell if your low speed needle is too rich: with the engine at operating temp it, let it idle for 30 seconds and then give it full throttle. If it hesitates and smokes alot on acceleration, the low speed needle is too rich. If during the 30 seconds of idling you notice it idles too fast or has an inconsistent idle speed, the low speed needle is too lean. Once you get the mixture set properly, then set the idle speed with the the idle screw. Hope this helps!
Hey man did you use traxxas fuel for the break in? I used traxxas to break-in my kyosho DBX 2.0 and had to retune both needles to find a sweet spot after the break-in tanks just to get it to start. I have an unopened USA-1 RERE that I am waiting to break in hopefully in the spring early summer at latest but will be breaking in with a 12% oil containing nitro fuel like I did with my older nitro stadium force.
Hello, I used VP basher blend 20% fuel. The more oil content the better / safer. Especially for break in. Have fun with it!
Was this after your transmission fix? With extra washers?
Yes it was. It is shifting perfectly after the fix.
Effin car guys…. The stuff you guys thinks helps break in a 2 cycle nitro engine is just a joke.